essential nails

7/28/2019 Essential Nails

1/191


2/191

Contents

Introduction

How use this book

Part. 1 foundation

Chapter 1why nails?

The advantages to the client

Nail extensions: some common names

The different nail systems

Acrylic nails

Fiberglass nails

Gel nails

Common techniques

Why be a nail technician?

Chapter 2. Introduction to home learn

Why home learn?

The practice problem

Your perfect model: the nail trainer.

Your perfect teacher: on video

Getting qualified

Chapter 3. Gel nails. Getting ready to learn

The products: what they are and what they do

Cuticle massage oil

Tip glue

Nail polishes

Top coat


3/191

Nail tips

Nail sanitizer and cleaner

Extender nozzles

Gel

Your tools: what they are and what they do.

UV light box

The buffer

The nylon brush

Files

Nail dippers

Cotton pads

Kitchen towels

Orange wood or birch wood sticks

Three way buffer

Chapter 4. The nail trainer

When to use the nail trainer

Parts of the nail trainer

Finger tip parts

Setting up to practice

The practice area

The desk clamp

Positioning the nail trainer

The natural nails

The different nail shapes

Fitting the natural nails

Positioning the natural nail

Adjusting the nail bed depth

Removing completed nail work


4/191

Separating nail from tip

Refitting the tip sheath

Working on the fingers

Working on the thumb

Care of your nail trainer

Cleaning

Replacement parts

Accessories

tips and ideas

simulate broken nails

electric files

progress cards

the essential techniques progress card

the whole hand practice card

how you learn: run, repeat, read & review

time management and practice regime

setting up to practice

answer tost paper 1, tools products & systems

chapter 5. salon skills

attitude and personal appearance

preparation and your surroundings

client consultation

manners and courtesy

your colleagues

ethics

retail sales

answer test paper 2, salon skills

chapter 6. chemicals, hazards and safety procedures


5/191

understanding health hazards.

Safe use of nail tools

The file

The buffer block

The brush

Cuticle knives

The electric file

The UV lamp

Know your nail products and chemicals

Inhalation, absorption and ingestion

Extension tip remover

Acrylic primer

Nail polish remover

Gel prep and residue remover.

Accelerator

Acrylic liquid

Acrylic powder

Nail adhesive

Filing dust

A quick guide to understanding the risks!

A quick guide to working safely with nail products

Storage of chemicals

Disposal of chemicals

Extension tip remover

Nail polish remover

Gel prep and residue remover

The chemical reaction

The nail systems


6/191

Acrylics

Gels

Fiberglass

Answer test paper 3, chemicals

Health and safety procedures

Hygiene

Disease and bacteria

Infection

How infection occurs

Minimizing infection

Sanitation

Disinfection

Sterilization

Other nail tools

Chapter 7. the nail

The part of the nail

The matrix

The eponychium

The proximal nail fold

The cuticle

The lunula

The perionychium

The nail grooves

The distal grooves

The hyponychium

The nail bed

Different nail shapes


7/191

How the nail grows

Chapter 8 common nail diseases

Disorders and contra actions

Disorders of the nails

Disorders that must not be serviced by a nail technician

Bacterial infection

Paronychia (paro-nik-ia)

Onychia (oni-komi-ko-sis)

Onychia (on-nik-ia)

Onychogrypasis (oni-ko-grey-pasis)

Onycholysis (oni-kol-i-sis)

Onychocrptosis(oni-ko-krip-toh-sis)

Onyychomadesis (oni-ko-mad-esis)

Onychatrophia (oni-chat-troh-fee-ah)

Psoriosis (sa-ria-sis)

Disorders that may be serviced by a nail technician

Bruised nail

Corrugations

Discoloured nails

Eggshell nails

Habit tic

Hong nails

Koilonychia (kol-on-ik-ia)

Leukonychia (loo-kon-ik-ia)

Onychoclasis (oni-cho-klas-is)

Onychauxis (oni-kik-sis)

Onychophagy (oni-kof-aji)

Anychorrhexis (oni-kor-rek-sis)


8/191

Pterygium (te-rij-ium)

In case you are not sure!

Contra action

Pre-service checklist

Answer test paper 4, parts of the nail and the pre-service rules.

Part 2. Essential techniques

Chapter 9. basic techniques

Filina

Grips and positions

The file grips

The correct sequence

The corresponding finger positions

Combining positions and grips

Groove positions and grips

First joint position and shape grip

Side positions and grips

Free edge position and grip

Practising the positions and grip

Practice regime

Chaapter 10. Six steps to perfect gel nails

How you will learn

Initial speeds

Step 1. Removing nail polish

Acetone based polish remover

Step 2. Preparing the natural nail

Object of the exercise

The procedure


9/191

Equipment and product required

Clean the nail with gel preparation

Push back the cuticle

Removing the shine

To key or not to key?

Dust

Salon speed demonstration

Salon target speed

Practice regime

Answer test paper 5, basic techniques and preparing the nail.

Step 3. Nail tipping and blending


Nails tips

How are tips made?

How to choose a nail tip

Applying a tip

The procedure


Choosing the correct size of tip

Shaping the free edge

Sizing the tip`s width

Cleaning the tip`well

Tip adhesive

Applying adhesive to the tip

Judging the correct amount of glue

Burp the bottle

Placing the tip on the nail; the correct angle

Rotate the nail and look out for air pockets


10/191

Problems sticking on tips

Glue setting times

Cutting the tip

Streamlining the edges of the tip

Shoping the free edge

Free edge shpes

Thinning the free edge of the tip

Blending the seam

Blending the centre of the seam

Blending the left side

Blending the right side

Fine blending


Suggested practice regime

Answer test paper 6, nail tipping.

Step 4. The gel overlay


The procedure


Cleaning

Acetone problems

Application 1. The bonding layer

The power of light boxes

Cure application 1, the bonding layer

Remove the hand from the UV lamp

Application 2. The building layer

The correct shape

Cure the second layer


11/191

Checking the shape

Why is the cured gel still sticky?

Remove the sticky residue


Practice regime

Step 5. Finishing

The correct shape

To file or not to file?

The procedure


Tidy

Smoothing the nail

Smoothing the top

Smoothing the middle/left

Smoothing the middle/ right

Buffing

Dust the nail

The final application of gel

Cure the final layer

Remove the sticky residue

Streamlining the left edge of the nail

Sreamlining the right edge of the nail

Final check of the free edge shape

Clean your brush

Buffing to a high shine

Applying cuticle oil

Keys and money

Clean hands


12/191


Salon target time

Practice regime

Answer test paper 7, the UV gel overlay

Step 6, polishing

The object of the exercise

Base coats

Nail strengtheners/ hardeners

Ridge fillers

Nail polishes

Which colour?

Type 1 spring colouring

Type 2 summer colouring

Type 3 autumn colouring

Type 4 winter colouring

The procedure


Mix the polish

Lood the bursh with polish

Polish perfect nails

Topcoat

Interlocking

Other tips on polishing

Salon target speed

Suggested practice regime

Anwer test paper 8, finishing and polishing

Part 3. Working the whole hand

Chapter 11. creating your first set of 5 nail


13/191

The procedure

Using the light box on the whole hand

Time

Click the nails into the nail trainer

The maintenance nail

Working on the hand

Preparation

Tipping

Apply the bonding and building layer of gel

Finishing

Polish

Practice regime

Test results, your ENP certification and route to further skills

What happens if you fail?

Putting it all together

What to do next

Maintaining nail extensions

Acrylic tip and overlay nails

Acrylic sculpting

Fibreglass

Airbrush nails

Part 4. Maintaining gel nails

Chapter 12. defining the maintenance tasks

Rebalancing

What is rebalancing?

The procedure

Pre-service

Remove any lifted product


14/191

Re streamline the side walls left and right

Reshape and shorten the free edges

Smooth the re greowth ledges

Move the crown back

Clean awaythe debris

Apply antiseptic

Apply gel nail prep

Apply first thin layer in regrowth area and cure

Buikd the crown and cure

Shape the nail, if required

Buff nail

Dust away the debris

Apply final thin, sealing layer of gel

Apply cuticle oil

Clean nails

Polish, top coat or buff as required

Cracks in overlays

Some common causes

Tips stressed

Poor adhesion of product.

Repairing cracks

Lifting overlays

What is a lifting overlay?

Why do enhancements lift?

Cleaning

Remove cuticle and pterygium completely

Dehydroting

Avoid contamination by finger oil


15/191

Avoid product contamination

Make your first gel application thin

Avoid long immersion in water

Mechanical shock

Make the overlay thin at the cuticle

Keep the product off the sking

How to repair lifting overlays

When to start ofresh

Use of nippers to remove lifted product

Repairing chips in the free edge

Removing nail enhancements

Bad reaction

A fresh set

The latest thing in nails

Bad workmanship

How to remove gel enhancements

Soaking off. The tools and products you need

The procedure

Chapter 13. practical maintenance. Gels

Initial inspection

The procedure

Complete pre-service

Clean up re-tip the thumb and index finger

Rebalance the remaining three nails

Application of thin bonding layer to thumb and forefinger.


16/191


17/191

IntroductionWelcome to "Essential Nails, a

practical guide to creating great

nails". This is the companion book

to the "Home Learn Gel Nails"

course and will provide an

invaluable reference as you work

through the course as well as

provide addittional information

that is not covered in the video.

although written specifically for the

video based nail course, it provides a

wealth of information about the art

of nail enhancements whether you

are a student, a professional or just

curious.


18/191

This book is split into four parts:

Part 1, "Foundation", which provides you with general information on working in the

nail industry, in a salon, from home or as o mobile Nail Technician. It'll tell you about the

different nail systems, how they work and the tools ond products you'll be using to service

your clients. You will learn about the natural nail and about same of the diseases and

problems that affect it, you'll learn the correct way to deal with your clients and the

importance of good hygiene.

In Part 2, "Essential Techniques", you'll learn the basics of the Nail Technicians art:

how to file correctly, how to prepare the nail and apply and blend a tip. How to apply an

cure the Gel ond finally how to finish and polish the nail.

In Part 3, "Working the Whole Hand", you'll learn about practising for speed and

efficiency in the salon and working on different shapes and sizes of nail.

In part 4, "Maintaining Gel Nails, you'll see how to provide the common maintenance

tasks such as rebalancing and in-fills, as well as how to repair lifting, cracked and chipped

enhancements.


19/191

Part 1. Foundation.

In this part you will learn useful background information about the nail industry, nail

physiology and diseases. You'll find out obout the salon environment, and how to

safely handle the tools products and chemicals you'll encounter.


20/191

Chapter 1 - Why nails?

Extending and decorating nails is not new, evidence exists proving

that the oncient Egyptians adorning their nails centuries ago. Nails is

one of the fastest growing beauty industries in Europe, it will not be

long before 'having your nails done' is thought of in the some way as

'having your hair done', just like it is in the USA, where there is a

Nail Bar on every street corner and there are 250,000 working Nail

Technicians. There is a growing demand for the services provided

by skilled Nail Technicians working either in the salon, from home

of as a mobile, visiting clients in their own homes. This course will

help you achieve the skills required to meet this demand and charge

a premium for your expert services. If you provide a good service to

your client, she will come back to you again and again and

recommend you to her family and friends, in a few months you will

have built a client base that will keep you fully employed.

The advantages to the client.

Nail enhancements started as a service for women with soft or easily

broken nails and has now expanded to be a fashion statement for all

women. Anyone can now have the nail style of their choice. Natural

or outrageous, French manicured or airbrushed. Enhanced nails

improve the beauty of your clients hands and help boost their overall

confidence.


21/191

Nail extensions: some common names.

Set of nails. Nail extensions.

Nail enhancements. False nails.

Tipped nails. Nail treatments.

All of the above are phrases used to describe what a Nail Technician does when she creates

a set of nails, they all pretty much mean the same thing:

The clients natural nail is extended by gluing on a plastic tip or by sculpting an extended

free edge with product. Then the extended nail is covered with more product (Gel, Acrylic

or Fibreglass) and shaped with files and buffers. Finally the nail can be decorating with

polish or other materials if required by the client.

For clarity we use the phrase 'nail enhancements' to mean any treatment to the nail to

extend or cover the nail with product, this is then split into three sub treatments:

Natural nail overlay: where the natural nail is not artificially extended in length.Product is applied over the natural nail to protect the natural nail or to correct a defect.

Tip and overlay: where the natural nail is mode longer by gluing on on extension Tipand then both the natural nail and extension is covered with product.

sculpted nail: where the natural nail is made longer by sculpting an extension purelyusing products such as Acrylic or Gel. A plastic tip is not used.


22/191

The different nail systems.

There are three main nail systems: Acrylic, fibreglass and Gel.

Although this book and the nail course you are undertaking is

purely Gel, you will come across the other nail systems as you

pursue your career. Indeed, at some stage it's a good idea to

learn all the systems, so you never need turn a customer away.

Acrylic Nails.

Also commonly known as 'liquid and powder'. Acrylic Nails is

the original nail system, the techniques emerged in ihe USA

about 25 years ago and still the most popular system there.

Acrylics come in two parts : a powder (called o polymer) and a

liquid (called monomer) that you mix together on a small brush.

The resulting paste con be applied over a nail extension or

sculpted over a 'nail form' to extend the natural nail to the

desired length and shape. After a few minutes the paste sets hard

and files and buffers are used to finish and polish the Acrylic to

a high shine. Acrylic powders come in different colors and a

popular method of creating a dazzling 'French manicured' look

is to apply pink and while Acrylic to the body and free edge of

the nail respectively. The advantages of the system is that the

nails are strong, thin and natural looking, the paste can be used

to easily correct misshapen nails and repairs and maintenance

are relatively straightforward. The disadvantages are that they

have a strong odors that many people object to, they are the

most difficult of the three systems to master and there iscurrently o debate within the EU os to whether one of the

constituent chemicals is safe. This has effectively stifled the

demand for acrylic nails in some EU


23/191

Fibreglass nails.

Fiberglass nails, are also known as 'silk nails' or 'wraps'. After

lengthening the natural nails with a plastic tip, strips of fiberglass ore

laid over the nail and bonded onto the nail using a fast setting resin.

More layers of fiberglass ore added to increase the strength of the nail

as required and more coats of resin are added to produce a perfect

finish. The resin soaks into the weave of the fiberglass and makes It

invisible. The advantages of fiberglass nails are that they are thin,

light and natural looking, there is little odors (although, as with all

nail enhancements, ventilation is required) and are easy to remove,

leaving the natural nail almost completely untouched. The

disadvantages are that it's fiddly for beginners and some products

require a spray-on 'activator' which means masks must be worn by the

Nail Technician and client.

Gel nails.

Gel nails are similar to Acrylic nails except that the paste is already

mixed and cames in a single small pat. It's applied to the nail with a

small brush just like Acrylics, but is hardened by exposure to ultra

violet light. The advantages of Gel nails is that the Gel is easy to

apply, has no odors (but you still need to work in a ventilated area),

looks natural and has a high shine. Some of the disadvantages are that

they are not as strong as Acrylics and are harder to remove and

repair.


24/191

Common techniques.

It's too much to attempt to learn all three systems at once.

There simply too much information to absorb. Most Nail

Technicians start with one system and then learn the others

later. Many of the techniques you learn for one system are

common to all three, for example sanitation, preparation,

tipping, blending and polishing. So, you'll be well on the

way to learning all the systems by the time you've

completed your initial course.

Why be a Nail Technician?

If you like working with people, are reasonable good with

you hands and enjoy beauty and fashion then the Nail

Industry is for you! The great thing is, once you are

competent, you can work on many different levels, work as

little as you like or as much as you like, for example, you

can:

Work from home, with clients visiting.

Work in a nail salon, hair salon, sports or fitness centers,

boutique, hotel or cruise liner.

Work as a mobile Technician, visiting clients in their

homes.


25/191

One thing is certain, every Nail Technician in the world,

no matter how successful she is now, started by enrollingon o beginners nail course and went from there. Once you

start doing nails, the sky is the limit, you can spend a

lifetime learning new techniques and following or creating

nail fashion.

You'll be surprised the amount of activity in the 'Nail

world' once you've been along to see one of the Nail and

Beauty shows. There you will find a constantly evolving

range of new tools, products, demonstrations,

competitions, designs and ideas. The next time there's a

show in your area, go along and have a look, you'll be

hooked.

Maybe you'll be one of those Nail Technicians who has

their desi ns on the front of a ma azine or wins nail


26/191

Chapter 2. Introduction to Home Learn

Why home learn?

Home learn has been made possible by a single significant development: The Nail Trainer

practice hand. Until The Nail Trainer was invented, all nail techniques had to be

demonstrated and practiced on live models.

The practice problem.

Relying on live models for practice meant that training was a unstructured and sometimes

chaotic affair, completely dependent upon being able to find enough willing models to sit

and be experimented on for free. There were many problems.

The student Technician would often be disappointed when their model cancelled.


27/191

Most Technicians practiced on their family or friends, usually it's mum that helps out.

She would sit there all day as her daughter spent

hours and hours fiddling with product, making

painful filing errors, and gluing poor mum's

fingers together!. Ultimately, mum would wisely

refuse to be used as a model ever again.

Maybe the local salon would let

Tracey do half-price treatments while

she's learning. Well, customers can

be very intimidating, especially if the

student is making mistakes, which is

inevitable while learning. Also salon

clients, your friends and family are

your first potential paying clients, the

very people who should only see

your best work, not your worst!


28/191

If you practice at home, the

temptation to have the TV on to

relieve the boredom for your model

is overpowering. But how can you

concentrate with such distractions?

People are happy to have their nails done when you are skilled, but you can't get skilled because

people won't let you practice on them Until The Nail Trainer was invented, most student Technicians

could not practice enough and simply give up altogether, loosing all the time and money.

They had invested.


29/191

Your perfect model: the nail trainer

The Nail Trainer now being used widely in the classroom to train absolute beginners. it

mean that teacher has complete control over the pace and content of the learning process,

the teacher is not constrained by the health and safety of the models, if necessary the

student can practice on the same nail over and over and over again until she gets, it right,

something that is complete impossible on a live model. Do you want to see how thickly

you have applied the Gel? Simple, remove the nail trainer`s nail an cut it in half. Try doing

that on a live model learning and experimenting using the nail trainer , the student only

ever starts work on a live hand, after she is acquired the skills to successfully complete a

full set.


30/191

Chapter 3. Gel nails.

Cuticle massage oil.

This perfumed oil comes in a small bottle and is dispensed by

squeezing the rubber bulb in the cap. it's rubbed into the nail and

surrounding nail wall and cuticle to keep the skin soft and supple.

Tip glue.

Tip Glue is used to fix the nail tips to the natural nail. It's a fast

setting cyanoacrylate resin, and you only need a tiny amount on

each tip. There are various formulations of the glue, some runny

some thick, some are applied form a tube, others come is a small

bottle like this one.

Nail polishes.

Nail Polishes come in thousands of colures and finishes and

usually the client will choose her own color. There is a small brush

inside the bottle which used to apply the polish to the nail.

The Products:

When a Nail Technician talks about 'products' she is normally referring to the chemicals that form

o particular system .For example the primer, liquid an powder used in acrylics, We prefer a wider

definition that encompasses any items nail that are used up as you create nail enhancements. Here

is a brief description of the products that you'll use during the gel course when they are used.


31/191

Top coat.

Top coat is a clear sealer applied over the colored polish to seal

and protect and to produce a high glass finish on the nail-

Nail tips.

Nail tips are used to lengthen the front - or free edae of the

natural nail. They come in many shapes, le and sizes, you get a

selection of tip with the gel course which have been chosen to

fit The Nail Trc nail. There are many more sizes shapes and

styles available . you'll get to know more about them ar their

uses later in the course.

Nail sanitizer and cleaner.

This liquid does three jobs. It sanitizes and dehydrates the nails

surface before application of tips and also removes the sticky

residue left after curing the Gel. It has been supplied to work

specifically with the Ego Gel and The Nail Trainer. This particular

product is not recommended for use on real nails, as it works

best on the plastic. When you have finished training you will

need The Ego Edense, which is designed for use on real nails.

Some Gel systems have separate liquids for sanitation,

dehydration and for removing the Gel residue after curing. If

you swap brands, always check with the manufacturer or other

Technicians using the products before assuming that theapplication is the same as you are used to.


32/191

Extender nozzles.

Extender nozzles are replaceable nozzles for your glue bottle.

These are disposable items, as you dispense the glue they

gradually get blocked. Use a new one for each client as the

replacement cost is low.

Gel

The Gel supplied in the Home Learn course is a bonding,

sculpting and finishing formula in one. It forms the hard

protective and decorative shell over the extended nail. Do not

expose the Gel to sunlight, or leave it near your UV light when its

on or it will go stiff and useless.

You should be aware that other Gel systems may have three

different Gel products to bond, build and coat. Always follow the

manufacturers instructions if you swap brands.


33/191

Your tools: What they are and what they do.

Here is brief description of the tools that come with the Gel course, each tool is discussed

comprehensively later in the course when they are used. Some of them are disposable;

some can be sanitised and used over and over. All of them are required to do a good,

professional job. You should keep them in good condition, clean, and sanitized.

UV light box.

This box provides the source of Ultra Violet light required to

cure the Gel. It plugs into your 220 volt power supply and has a

switch to turn on the light.

The Buffer.

The Buffer is a block of foam coated on each side with various grades of abrasive. Some

buffers have the same abrasive on each side, others have o

coarse abrasive on one side, (which removes material quickly)

and a finer abrasive on the other, which is used to buff and

shine. Some are colour coded to help you identify the different

abrasive grades.

Safety Advice

The edges of the buffers are sharp, you must blunt the edges with a

file before use, or you may well cut your client when you use them.

Hygiene Advice

To prevent spreading inflection between clients, either throw the

buffers away after use or bag and label them for future use only on that client.


34/191

The nylon brush.

The nylon brush is used to apply and shape the layers of Gel

over The nail's surface. This is your no I look so take very good

care of it,

The cuticle pusher.

The cuticle pusher is used to gently push back the cuticle off of

the nail and to remove any cuticle adhering to the nail surface.

You cannot apply product to the cuticle, only to the nail surface.

Cuticle pushers are made of wood, plastic or metal.

Hygiene Advice

To prevent spreading infection from one client to another, either throw

the cuticle pusher away after use if it's wooden, or sterilise it if it's metal

or plastic.

Manicure brush.

The manicure brush is used to dear dust off of the fingers and nails after

each filing process.

Files.

We supply three different files for Gel. The 'coarse' black file is 100 grit

on one side and 180 on the other, the white 'medium' file is 180 / 180,

and the yellow 'fine' file is 240 / 240. The lower the number, the more

coarse the file or butter is, so 100 grit will file away material quickly, but

leave big scratches on the surface, 250 will remove material slowly and

leave the surface nice and smooth, you will see where to use the various files later.


35/191

Safety Advice

The edges of files are sharp, you must blunt the edges with another file

before use, or you may well cut your client when you use them.

Hygiene Advice

To prevent spreading infection between clients, either throw the files away

after use or bag and label them for future use only on that client.

Nail clippers.

Nail Clippers are used to shorten the tips after they are glued to the

nail.

Cotton pads.

Cotton pads are used to apply any liquid to the nail during theenhancement process. You should always use 'lint free' pads that will

not leave fibers on the nail after use. The pads are used to apply

cleanser, alcohol, polish remover or antiseptic. You only ever use each

pad once and then throw is away.

Kitchen towels.

It's very useful to have a clean kitchen towel permanently on you work

area. After each process of the nail build you can dispose of it and any

dust or product on it, and replace with a new one. This drastically

reduces the amount of dust and fumes in the atmosphere, keeps your

work area clean and fosters a professional image. They do not cost

much, so it's well worth it.


36/191

Orange wood or birch wood sticks.

These thin, soft sticks are used to gently prise old product of

the nails surface during maintenance.

Three way buffer

Although this looks face a file, it is actually a buffer .it is have

three very fine grits, black being the coarsest, white being

medium and grey being very fine indeed. It's only use is to

bring up the surface shine on the nail.

Hygiene Advice

Throw orange wood, birch wood sticks and 3 way buffers away after use or bag

and label them for use next time for that client. Never use an orange stick or

three way buffer on more than one person, why not give them to yours as a gift

for their own use


37/191

Chapter 4. The Nail Trainer.

With The Nail Trainer at the centre of your training program you have embarked upon the

fastest route to becoming a highly skilled Nail Technician. By practicing on The Nail

Trainer you have eliminated the biggest obstacle to becoming a professional Nail

Technician the requirement to find a group of willing models to practice on!

The Nail Trainer is all the models you will ever need. You can now practice when you

want, for as long as you want. You can practice on the same size of nail over and over

again until you have perfected a particular skill, you can practice any of the nail systems,

even nail art, airbrush and nail adornment. The continuity of practice, the variation and

realism of The Nail Trainer's finger tips, fingers and nails, will speed you to a lucrative

career in the fast growing world of nail beauty.

When to use The Nail Trainer.

The Nail Trainer is featured throughout all Home Learn courses. All techniques are shown

on The Nail Trainer. You can use The Nail Trainer on the course and for practice after the

course at any lime to suit you. Even after you have mastered a particular system, you cancontinue to use The Nail Trainer to expand your skills into other areas. You can practice

Acrylic Tip and Overlay, Acrylic Sculpting, Fiberglass, Gel, Airbrushing or Nail Art.

Whatever the future holds for nail processes The Nail Trainer will provide the practical

solution for your training requirements.


38/191

Finger tip parts.

Nail retaining frame, tip sheath, natural nail

Setting up to practice.

The practice area.

You should find o comfortable chair and small table. Ideally

the size of the table should be similar to the compact tables

used in salons. position your chair on one side of the table.

The desk clamp.

On the end of The Nail Trainer flexible arm is the desk clamp

.This will clamp to any desk edge with a maximum thickness

of 50 mm (2 inches). Open the jaws of the desk clamp by

rotating the thumb screw anticlockwise.


39/191

Positioning The Nail Trainer.

Clamp The Nail Trainer to the opposite Side of the table, slightly to your right (The Nail

Trainer is a model of a left hand, so it should be presented to you slightly from the right).

Tighten the clamp by rotating the thumb screw clockwise until it grips the desk securely.Make a curve in the flexible arm so that The Nail Trainer hand is located in front of you.

Making a curve in the arm allows you to move The Nail Trainer hand towards you or away

from you as necessary.

The natural nails.

The natural nails mimic the different shapes and sizes of nails

found on hands in real life. You choose the shape you want to

work on and fit it to the finger of your choice. The Nail Trainer,

when unpacked from the box is fitted with a selection of natural

nail sizes, fitted in various positions and depths on the finger

tips. During the first part of the Home Learn course you work on

the easiest' of the natural nail shapes fitted on the easiest finger.

This is the number 13 natural nail, which will not need too much

preparation to take a tip. It is fitted to the ring finger, which is

the easiest to work on. You should work on this finger, refitting

the same size nail to the finger until you are happy with your

work. Later on in the course you will work on the other nail

shapes.


40/191

The different nail shapes.

There are five natural nail shapes included with The Nail Trainer. The shape and size of the

nails have been chosen to present a variety of problems and difficulties to you during your

practice sessions.

no 6 no 9 no 13 no 18 no 8

4/10 4/10 3/10 7/10 8/10

Difficulty (1 = easy, 10 = hard):

The no 13 nail is the easiest; it does not need much filing and is nice and symmetrical.

The number 6 nail is slightly harder, the long free edge makes it ideal for practicing

airbrush and nail art.

The number 9 is the widest nail, it is fitted to the thumb and is quite an easy nail to work

on.

The no 18 'maintenance' nail has a 'regrawth' area at the cuticle and a chip on the free edge.

You can practice filling the regrowth area, repositioning the crown, thinning and reshaping

the free edge or repairing the chip.

The small number 8 nail can be embedded in a deep nail bed to mimic a chronic nail biters

finger, this is a tricky nail to work on as file access is difficult.


41/191

Fitting the natural nails.

Any of the natural nails can be fitted to any of the fingers or the thumb. Obviously the

larger nails look more realistic when fitted to the thumb and the smallest to the little finger,

but there is nothing to stop you fitting the smallest nail on the thumb to imitate a chronicnail biter with fat fingers.

Positioning the natural nails.

position the natural nail over the aperture in the top of the tip sheath and click down one

click (FIG1) and slide to the front or to the rear of the finger tip (fig2)

do not have too much free edge or the nail will pop out when you file.

Adjusting the nail bed depth.

Click down once more for a shallow nail bed, continue to press and click down to form a

deeper nail bed.

The easiest way to do this is to place the finger on the table surface and press the nail down

from above. We suggest you practice on some nails at 2 clicks deep and some at 3 clicks,

some at the front and some at the rear of the finger tip.


42/191

Removing completed nail work.

When you hove finished your work on any particular finger, you

remove the natural nail, the work done on it and the tip sheath

together.

Pinch the tip sheath between your thumb and index finger, with your

thumb pressing on the surface of the nail. Hold the nail retaining

frame with your other hand (pinch the two white joint wheels with

your thumb and forefinger) and pull the nail and tip sheath off the

front of the nail retaining frame and initially you might find it quite

hard to pull them off.

Continue to pull hard and it will eventually slide off.

Warning! Only remove nails by sliding the finger tip forward.

Pulling the nail up out of the frame without sliding the finger tip

forward may damage the nail retaining frames.

Separating nail from tip.

After sliding the finger tip off, remove the completed nail from the tip

sheath by gently pulling the nail off the top of the finger tip. If you

find there is excess resin adhering to the edge of the nail and the

surrounding tip sheath, pull apart gently rocking the nail as you pull to

break the resin seal, so as not to rip the surface of the tip sheath.

Discard any unwanted nails, you cannot 'soak off' in acetone, as the

acetone will dissolve the Nail Trainers nails as well as the extension

lips. The finger tip sheaths are reusable.


43/191

Refitting the tip sheath

Refit the tip sheath on the nail retaining frame by sliding it back on the way it came off.

Working on the fingers.

The fingers move in a similar way to the joints of a real hand. While you are

working on a nail, hold the underside of the finger with your left hand

(assuming you are right handed) and work on the nail with your right hand.Rotate the finger and hand as required to access different parts of the nails

surface with you tools.

Working on the thumb.

Rotate The Nail Trainer about the wrist so the thumb nail is uppermost .

Caution: you cannot rotate the hand at the wrist by twisting the thumb as youwould with a live model, normally the model would rotate her hand herself

lo follow the twisting. The Nail Trainer cannot do this!

Care of your Nail Trainer.

With appropriate care The Nail Trainer will give years of service, all parts

are easily replaceable should they become damaged or scruffy.


44/191

Cleaning

We recommend that The nail Trainer is washed In warm soapy water at the end of each

practice day. Acetone can be used to remove excess product from The Nail Trainers

surface. The rubber tip sheaths can be wiped over with acetone of nail polish remover, butyou should avoid total and continuous immersion as this will damage the surface.

Replacement parts.

All the fingers, the thumb. Nail Retaining frames and other parts can be removed and / or

replaced. Should you require spare parts for The Nail Trainer please contact us.

Accessories

As you use The Nail Trainer you may need extra natural nail and

possibly more adhesive, finger and thumb tips. The rate at which you use

them it obviously dependent upon your own work rate and in the case of

the finger tip sheaths, how accurate you are with your filing and

application of resines. We have the following packs of parts available !

NTA3002 - Refit Nail Pack consisting of 100 natural nails (20 of each

site).

NTA3003 Standard Finger Tip pack (4 fingertips, 1 thumb tip).

NTA3005 - Nail Trainer adhesive.

AC 102 Nail Trainer Acrylic primer

ACIOI Gel prep and residue remover(Nail Trainer use only).

PR029 - NaJ Trainer user manual.

PRO20 & PR023 - Progress cards.


45/191

Tips and Ideas

Simulate broken nails.

There is nothing to stop you filing or cutting the natural nails into odd

shapes. You can imitate cracked, broken and brittle nails by reshaping

the larger natural nails with clippers or scissors.

Electric File

The Nail Trainer is the ideal aid to try out electric files. Use of powered

tiles are discouraged until you have acquired a high degree of manual

dexterity as it is very easy to damage the nail or nail bed with these

tools. You can use them at an earlier stage in your

training when practicing on The Nail Trainer as

there is no possibility of hurting anyone.

Progress Cards

There are two types of progress cards supplied with The Nail

Trainer or Home learns courses. The 'Essential Techniques

progress card', which stores nails at different stages of the nail

build, and the Whole Hand Practice card, which stores 'sets' of

nails. As you work through the Home learn course, you save the

nails on these cards. At the end of the course you send the filled

cards to us so we can see the quality of your work. Let's have a

look at the cards individually.


46/191

The essential techniques progress card

You only use one nail shape on this card, in the home learn course it will be the number 13,

but other training organizations may instruct using a different nail shape.

At the top is a place for your

name and address and the

training organisation you are

enrolled with if you are using the

nail trainer in a classroom

Down the left side is the

description of each step of the

nail build. Step 2, preparation,

through step 6, polishing.

In the right hand top

corner are some tick

boxes where you should

indicate which nail

system you are learning

The cards can be used fo

any system

Across the top are the nai

numbers you are working

the card holds 10 nails.


47/191

Although there are 6 steps you go though to build a nail enhancement, we skip the first step

(removing nail polish) as far as the card is concerned, only saving two nails at step 2

through 6. The steps are:

1. Removing nail polish (if there is any). 2. Preparing the

natural nail.

3. Nail tipping. 4. Applying the

overlay.

S. Finishing. 6. Polishing.

This cord is used during part two of the Home Learn course 'Essential Techniques' where

you are learning the basic skills of how to build nail enhancements, you are instructed on

the video to prepare 10 number 13 nails.

You save two of them, the first and

last nail, in position 1 and position

10 and you write down the amount

of time it took you to prepare each

of the saved nails.

You then have 8 nails left. You tip

and blend them just as you see on

the video, and again save two of

them, the first and last, in positions

2 and 9, again noting the times.

The remaining 6 nails you overlay

with gel and save them in position 3

and 8.

The next 4 nails, are finished

with your files and buffers and

are saved in positions 4 and 7.

The last two nails ore polished and

saved in positions 5 and 6.


48/191


49/191

The Whole Hand Practice card

This card is used when you are practicing on the whole hand, on different fingers and

different nail shapes and sizes. Across the top you should enter your name and address, and

nail system you are learning (Gel, fiberglass, Acrylic etc).

The card has positions for 30 nails in six sets of five nail shapes. The card's purpose is keep

a record of your improving nail skills and quickening speed As you work through 60 sets of

nails. In the Home Learn course it is used in part 3: 'Working the whole hand', where you

are instructed to click in the five shapes to the five fingers of The Nail Trainer, size 9 nail in

the thumb, size 6 in the index, size 13 in the middle, size 18 in the ring and size 8 in the

pinky finger. You then work through the whole hand, just as you would on a live client and

at the end save all five nails on the card, noting the time it took you to complete the set in

the boxes on the left hand side of the card. You only save every tenth set you complete, and

by the time you've completed 60 sets, and saved the

on the

card you will really see a difference in quality between the fist set and the last set you completed.

You should see your times improving to about 45 minutes a set.


50/191

On the right hand side of the card are five

boxes for each set of nails, this is filled in by

our tutors when they mark your work. They

are looking for a high standard in the

following five categories:

Thickness. The overlay should be the correct

thickness at the crown, cuticle and free edge.

Apex. The apex of the nail (high point of the

arch) should be in the right place and should

form a nice curve back to the cuticle and

forward to the free edge.

Free edge. The free edge should be nicely

shaped and thin.

Consistency. The five nails should be o set,

looking like brothers and sisters, having the

same overall style and shape.

Surface. All the nails should have smooth,

shiny and nicely curved surfaces.

Each of the above categories has o maximum

possible mark of 2, or 10 marks per set, 60 for

the card. 8oth cards are marked and returned

to you with any comments the tutor have

made about your work.


51/191

Setting up to practice.

It's ideal if you can set up your nail equipment in a separate room, away from the daily

hustle and bustle of family life. Find a small table, camp The Nail Trainer on the opposite

side of the table and position the hand in front of you. Arrange your product and tools toyour right and your right box to your left. Have the TV opposite you and use a video player

with a remote so you can easily pause and rewind and place a kitchen towel under The Nail

Trainer. You'll also need a clock, so you can make a note of the time it lakes for you to

complete each step, and a rubbish bin with a top that can be closed. The lid helps trap

fumes from discarded towels and cotton pads.

Time management and practice regime.

Building nails looks easy. For a skilled Technician it is easy,

purely because they have been practicing for years! As a

beginner you are learning new skills which involve fine

control of tools and products. The difference between

producing a perfect nail as opposed to a horrible misshapen

one can be a single wrongly placed stroke of the file. You have to

acquire accurate eye to hand coordination and develop an eye for

what looks 'right'. You may remember how difficult it seemed to

drive a car, press the clutch in, select a gear, look in the mirror,

accelerate, let the clutch up, release the Hand brake,

steer. It seemed overwhelming at first,but now you

drive away without thinking about it at all. It took

instruction, but mostly it took practice. You're teaching

your muscles to move in a new way and they take time

to learn. The good news is, if you persevere d they willlearn, and in a few months you'll be chatting to your

clients as you build their nails, almost automatically, without thought, Learning is hard

work, most things that are worth doing require effort, but it is fun and you'll get a great

sense of satisfaction when you see the standard of your work improving.


52/191

You need to get into the frame of mind to learn. Each time

you sit down have at least one hour put aside for

uninterrupted practice. Work hard for that hour, then give

yourself a break and come back to it later. Don't push

yourself to the point of frustration.

Be critical of your work, because your customers will Work

at learning the correct techniques and in a few weeks you'll

be amazed at your improvement.

Answer test paper 1, tools products & systems.

Now is the time to test your comprehension of the subjects

covered so far in the Home Learn course and this book.

Test paper 1, tools products and systems, contains a set of

multiple choice questions based on these subjects.

Tick the box next to the phrase that you think correctly

complete the sentence. Please note that one, two or three

answers may be correct, in which case tick them, or none

of them by be correct, in which case do not tick any. Your

answers are marked in the following way:

A tick in a correct box = 1 mark.

A tick in an incorrect box = lose a mark.

A tick missing from a correct box = no mark.


53/191

Chapter 5. Salon skills,

There is more to being a great Nail Technician than creating beautiful nails. To establish

yourself as a successful, busy Technician you also need to understand how to deal with

your clients and work colleagues in a positive professional manner. We call these wide

ranging abilities 'salon skills' though they are also very relevant to mobile Technicians.

Think of yourself as someone who is providing a service that includes nails, not just a nail

service. Working to improve your salon skills will help you build your clientele and support

the prices you charge

Attitude and personal appearance.

Even when you're practicing at home on the Nail Trainer, try view it

as if it was a critical client, rather than a plastic hand.

Make sure everything is clean, tidy and well presented and bring out

fresh kitchen towels, empty the waste bin and wipe down your work

surfaces and tools with disinfectant every day. Then when you start

working in a salon your good attitude, good hygiene, great

appearonce and professionalism will already be second nature.

It may seem obvious that presenting yourself well goes a long way

towards being successful but you would be amazed at the number of

Nail Technicians that shower, do their hair, apply beautiful make up

- and then get into a dirty uniform! Cleanliness and smart personal

appearance tell your client that you are a competent professional that

can be relied upon.

A dirty uniform suggests that your concern for high standards issomewhat superficial and that this may extend to the quality of your

nail work. Remember you are in the beauty industry!


54/191

To charge premium rates, everything has to be perfect.

So the following check list provides the minimum

standards you should strive for:

Wear a clean uniform every day, you will feel better

and look great.

Shower or bathe daily and wear deodorant.

Your hair and make up should also be well presented

and long hair tied back so it won't dangle over the

work area.

Jewellery is acceptable though it is not a good video

to wear a lot of rings as this looks untidy and the filing dust will get under the rings and

irritate your skin.

Avoid eating spicy food or garlic and keep a toothbrush and mints with you so that youcan freshen your breath regularly.

Your nails must enhance your standing as a professional. You should wear beautifully

maintained extensions in a style that reflects the preferences of the majority of your clients,

but wear them fairly short so they don't get in the way when you're working.

Never smoke whilst performing nail services. As well as being a big health and safety risk

it looks very unprofessional and many clients will object and not use your services again.

This also applies to chewing gum which creates a casual impression, the suggestion being

that this could extend to the standard of your services.


55/191

Preparation and your surroundings.

Always be on time and well prepared for your client's arrival. Have your work station

smartly laid out and clean even for the last appointment of the day, this will go a long way

towards making each client fell special. if you are late and disorganized it will appear thatyou are not that concerned about them, your work will suffer as you will be stressed and

under pressure to catch up. Make sure your tools hove been sanitized and that there are

sufficient product supplies on your desk.

Review the appointment book at the beginning of the day, recall the clients listed and

consider if there is anything special they might need. Some clients will always require more

work than others during maintenance treatments, due to their nails or their lifestyle. Have

your maintenance tools, including warmed acetone ready in anticipation of this.

It can be useful to keep a copy of the days appointments to hand so you can review the

treatments coming up without having to go to the appointment book. Preparation and

planning are the keys to appearing confident and assured.

Client consultation

Opposite is a client consultation card that you might see in a salon, it is important to fill in

the relevant sections for each client. It fosters a professional image, gives you valuable

information on your clients, their treatment histories and possible allergic reactions. Get the

clients name, telephone numbers, and address. Discuss the treatment she requires and

establish the length, style and shape of nail she prefers.

Explain that extensions need care and maintenance to keep

them looking good and this needs a commitment from the

client. Every two to three weeks she will need to come back

for maintenance. Explain about the possibilities of infection

and what to look for. Show her the home care rules, and give

a copy of which you will give her.


56/191


57/191

Manners and courtesy.

When you greet your client make them feel welcome, look them

in the eye and smile. Hopefully you will gel to like most of your

clients eventually so you won't have to act for long! Address

them by name, using their title if you haven't met them before or

their Christian name if they are regulars, people will always feel

pleased that you have remembered their name. Offer to take their

coat, show them to the waiting area or lo your work station.

Some of your clients will be shy, some will be having nail

extensions for the first time, it's part of your job to learn how to

greet your client in a way that is appropriate for them. Some

clients visit a salon mainly for social reasons so these people will

probably enjoy chatting, others just want their nails to look great

and prefer to remain quiet during their treatment, they may be shy

or could hove a lot on their mind. In any event an important part

of becoming a successful Technician is judging the extent to

which you engage in conversation. If you get this right you stand

o much higher chance of your client becoming a regular.

It is not uncommon to see Technicians with their head down,

hardly talking to their clients. This is because they are

concentrating hard on building the extensions and do not have

enough mental capacity left to engage in conversation at the same

lime. This is far from ideal and indicates that the Technician's

nail build techniques are not good enough. The result is that the

client feels ignored and the Technician feels stressed.


58/191

This is one very good reason to work at your technique until

it is second nature, so you have time for your clients social

needs as well!

Never complain to your client or argue with your her, the old

adage; 'the customer is always right', still holds true,especially avoid talking about religion or politics, this

inevitably ends up in a row!

Avoid taking phone calls whilst treating your clients, so

switch your mobile off. Taking calls during a treatment

simply tells your client that your personal life is more

important than her time. She is effectively paying you while

you chat on the phone.

Communicating.

In order to work harmoniously with your colleagues and

clients it is important to know how to communicate. Certain

guidelines will prove useful. Be clear and to the point when

discussing work issues with colleagues. If your client has

some concerns listen carefully and answer honestly. If your

client wants to know more about her treatment, don't be shy

of explaining the procedure, often inquisitive clients who

express an interest in what you do are your most valuable

clients.

The appointment book is the heart of any salon and is should

be used as the starting point for building the relationships with

your clients. Enter your client's full name, the treatment

required, her telephone number and any other relevant details.

There will be many occasions when your colleagues will need

to communicate with a client in your absence.


59/191

Your collage

There are some simple guidelines that will ensure that you maintain good relations with

your work colleagues. Always have time for their opinions even if you don't always agree,

be willing to learn from them, whether you are the newest Technician in the salon or themost experienced. However don't be shy of offering advice, and try to help out if the

opportunity arises. Inevitably they will be occasions when you will be asked to do extra

shifts so a helpful attitude will be appreciated by all.

Avoid borrowing money from work colleagues, it's got to be paid back and if you get into

difficulty with the repayment then the resulting tension between you and your colleagues

will have an effect on the performance of the whole salon. If you have a problem of any

sort, talk it over with your employer, this is always better than grumbling to your

colleagues. Try not to take your personal problems to work, if you should have a bad

situation and you are not in good shape for work it is best to explain the problem to your

employed and take time off. The same goes for illness, struggling in with a cold may appear

heroic but unfortunately the usual result is that more people are infected, including your

clients.

ethics.

It is good to be ethical in your dealings with clients and colleagues. For example if a client

has requested a certain treatment, carry it out fully without cutting corners, even if time is

pressing. If a Technician is off sick and it's impossible to get the shift covered, phone the

affected clients and explain the situation. Invite them to reschedule their appointment or, if

they would rather keep the appointment, be sure they are aware that their appointment time

may slip or that they may be treated by a different Technician. Do not favour any clients,

even if they bring you gifts. This is not lair on other clients who are paying the same for

your services.

Never instigate gossip as this will ultimately drive you away from your colleagues and

clients. Stay neutral when you hear a client, or colleague, complain about another

Technician. Rarely are things as straightforward as they seem. Never criticize other

Technicians to your client, you are criticizing the whole salon if you do this.


60/191

When you are offered your first position in a salon make sure you understand the

conditions of employment that you are signing up to. If you have a question ask it, don't

just keep quiet to be sure of getting the job, once the reason for the condition has been

explained hopefully you will understand why it is needed. If you find yourself agreeing to

something that you are uncomfortable with, you are only storing up trouble for yourself in

the future.

Retail sales

All clients require additional nail treatments and polishes to protect and maintain thier nails

at home. These additional sales are a vital source of income so it's smart to learn how to

become good salesperson. This is easier than you think, in fact without realizing it you

are selling yourself when you first meet your client, remember, people buy people first!

There are three keys to achieving regular retail sales in the salon. The first is to listen, the

second is to make it happen, I'll come to the third in a moment. When chatting to your

client learn about their lifestyle, not in an obtrusive way, just be aware of the clues they

provide. You are not being nosey, you are being a true professional and establishing how

you can best service their needs. Are they a keen swimmer? Does their work mean their

hands are frequently dehydrated? What are their favorite polish colures? Are they the sort

of person that loves trying something new? These are the clues telling you which products

your client would probably buy.

Now for the difficult bit! You have to make the effort to suggest a certain product would be

perfect for them. You don't need to rehearse a fancy sales script, just talk about the product

enthusiastically. If it helps you be more natural, pretend to yourself it's free, then your

enthusiasm will be infectious!

And the third key? You need to do this for every client, not just on an occasional basis.

Then the laws of averages will start to work in your favors and you will accumulate

significant additional retail sales.


61/191

Answer test paper 2, Salon skills.

Make yourself a cup of tea and have a go at the multichoise

tests 2. For each question none, one, more than one or all the

answers may be correct. You'll find the answers somewhere inthis book or on the video.


62/191

Chapter 6. Chemicals, hazards and safety

procedures.

Nail products are chemicals, and if used properly they are safe. However, if nail products

are used or handled without paying attention to correct procedure, adverse reactions can

occur, and health can be affected.

For this reason it is very important that you learn how to deal with your tools and products

in a safe and professional manner.

Health and safety for a Nail Technician means five things:

Safe use of nail tools. Safe use of nail products and chemicals. Safe storage of nail products. Safe disposal of used and unwanted chemicals. Effective application of health and safety procedures.

Use these 'five facets' as a mental checklist to help you develop an awareness of the health

and safety issues that affect you and your client.

Trainees are naturally more likely to cause damage than a skilled Nail Technician. So by

making all your early mistakes on The Nail Trainer you are already employing the best

health and safety principles.

By learning and implementing the following principles you will have no cause to harm

yourself or your client throughout your career.


63/191

Understanding health hazards

There are five main ways in which Nail Technicians or their clients can be harmed through

providing or receiving nail enhancements, these are:

Damage through misuse of nail tools.

Inhalation of vapour.

Inhalation of dust.

Absorption of liquids through the skin.

Ingestion of chemicals.None of these need become a problem as long as they are kept under control. For example

it is inevitable that both client and Technician will be exposed to vapours and dust, indeed

this applies to us all in everyday life and it rarely gives cause for concern because our levels

of exposure are extremely low.

Problems occur when exposure levels rise to the point when overexposure occurs. As a

professional Nail Technician, a vital part of your job is to ensure that exposure levels are

kept at o low and manageable level by following sensible precautions and good workplace

procedures.

Safe use of nail tools.

Clumsy use of certain nail tools, in particular files, is the most immediate way damage can

be caused. These tools are designed to remove and shape hardened nail products, and to do

this they have to be sharp. Files and buffers may not appear sharp in the same sense as a

knife, but in fact these tools are really thousands of tiny cutting blades working together

and if allowed to wander on to the client`s skin can cut and cause bleeding!

The way to avoid harming your client is to develop good tool control technique, as shown

on the Home Learn videos. By mastering these skills you will be able to work quickly and

with precision. Your tools will be cutting the nail enhancement materials, and not your

client's skin! Here is a list of the tools that have the potential to cause harm.


64/191

The file.

This is the tool most associated with harming clients and the

damage is usually caused in one of two ways. Firstly, with Gel

nails and to some extent Acrylic nails it is necessary to use the

file to remove an old enhancement. As the hard nail product is

filed away it is not uncommon for an unskilled Technician to

continue filing even though all the product has been removed.

The file is then cutting into the natural nail plate and if

continued for too long, great damage will be done to the nail

plate.

Secondly, damage is caused to the surrounding flesh by

inaccurate filing during streamlining, shaping or

blending the enhancement. The edges of files are

extremely sharp (even after the edges have been

blunted, see stripping files and buffers) and if allowed

to rub over the surrounding skin can easily draw blood

from the resulting v shareped cut or filing graze.

Cutting your client in this way is potentially the mostserious form of damage as open wounds are an

invitation to disease and infection.

Both of these accidents are caused by lock of

understanding and poor technique on the part of the Technician. Work hard at your file

control technique by practicing on your Nail Trainer until your use of the file becomes

accurate and effective, thus eliminating the possibility of harming your client.


65/191

The buffer block.

The buffer is less likely to cause damage as it has a finer

abrasive surface than a file so the cutting action is

gentler, although just like files the edges are sharp andneed to be blunted before use. As the effect of the buffer

is quite subtle, some technicians get in the habit of using

it too vigorously, which in combination with inaccuracy

can cause soreness and redness of the skin around the

client`s nail. As with all of your tools accuracy is the key

avoiding problems.

The brush.

Many different nail products are applied with a brush. You

have to avoid letting these chemicals touch your clients skin.

Most nail products are categorized as hazardous as they are

usually either irritants or corrosive. Allowing your brush to

contact your client's skin can cause irritation and pain and

even start an allergic reaction. Therefore an important aspect

of your technique training on The Nail Trainer is fine control

of product application to the nail and extension only. A

detailed explanation of the health and safety issues relating

to the various nail products is provided in the next section.

Cuticle knives.

These sharp knives are used for cutting away excess cuticle during the nail preparation

process prior to applying nail product.


66/191


67/191

There are two main ways that the electric file can cause harm in

untrained hands. The friction of the spinning bit on the nail

generates a lot of heal so the file must be used with a light

pressure and constantly moved across the nail surface to avoid

the risk of burning the client's nail. Secondly it's very easy for

the drill to skip across the surface of the nail on to the client's

skin, causing a bad cut or tear. It is problems like these that

have lead to the electric file gaining a bad reputation, though

this is somewhat unfair as only on unskilled Nail Technician

will cause damage, not the tool!

Electric files are safe, useful tools as long as two important

rules are observed. Firstly, it is vital that full training is taken and this should be of a very

high standard. The Nail Trainer is perfect tool for learning on as the techniques can be

practiced to perfection.

Secondly, only use electric files recommended by nail companies or responsible beauty

trade suppliers. There are many electric files available designed for the hobby market that

ore too powerful and unsuited for safe use on nail extensions.

The UV lamp.

People sometimes assume that because the light boxes used

to cure Gel emit ultra violet light they possess the same

potential for harm as a high powered sun bed. This is not

the case as the wavelength of light produced by the tubes

in nail light boxes is UVA, which lakes a long while to

burn or tan the skin.

Sun beds are usually over a hundred times more powerful than nail light boxes, and they

emit both UVA and UVB light. It is the UVB light in sun beds that accelerates the tanning

process and this can be harmful if overexposure occurs. As long as a modem nail light box

is used with 9 watt or lower power tubes your client is not at risk.


68/191

Know your nail products and chemicals.

Either when practicing at home or working in a salon, you have to know about the

chemicals in the products you are using. By learning your art on The Nail Trainer you are

already dealing with health and safety in the most responsible way possible. You cannotharm your client through inexperience and you are learning in an environment that enables

you to acquire a great technique before working on real people. When we talk about nail

products we are mainly referring to the liquids and substances that come in bottles, jars or

other containers. Typical examples are acrylic primer, acrylic liquid and powder, Gel, tip

remover, nail polish remover, extension tips and nail polish. These are all 'products' as

opposed to 'tools'. Most nail products are termed 'hazardous' and they can enter the body in

the three ways already identified: inhalation, absorption and Ingestion. Many are also

flammable.

Inhalation, absorption and ingestion,

Absorption is the action of a liquid being absorbed through the skin.

Inhalation is the action of molecules of a liquid or other substance being inhaled through

the nose or mouth as vapour or dust.

Ingestion is the least likely route of entry as it happens as a consequence of tiny particles

of product transferring from the Technician's fingers on to food and then swallowed. This

can easily be prevented by washing the hands thoroughly before eating.

Some liquid products can enter the body through both absorption and inhalation. This most

commonly occurs when liquid is spilled directly on the skin or when handling contaminated

tissues or when sloppy brush control causing small amounts of liquid to contact the skin at

the side of the nail. The following is a description of the common nail products capable of

entering the body either as a consequence of the way in which they are used or due to the

chemistry of the product.

Bear in mind that this list is not exhaustive and new products enter the market all the time

so if you have a product that is not on this list, seek advice from the manufacturer.


69/191

When assessing the relative safely of a particular chemical and thinking about the health

and safely implications of its use in your work place, we ask ourselves 'what is an

acceptable level of exposure to this chemical?' Nail products are safe, as long as exposure is

minimized through good working practices. Let`s look at some of the common products

and chemicals used in the nail industry.

extension tip remover.

The most widespread chemical used to remove nail tips is

acetone. This is a liquid which is also a solvent, i.e. it has the

ability to dissolve certain materials, for example some

plastics.

Absorption. Acrylic and fiberglass extension tips are

commonly removed by either immersing the nail extensions

in a bowl of acetone or soaking cotton wipes in acetone and

then wrapping them around the finger tips. Inevitably the

acetone comes into contact with the skin surrounding the

nail and a small amount of absorption will take place. Al the

same time the acetone is producing vapours that will be

inhaled as it evaporates. Acetone is highly flammable and is

closed as an irritant.

If you use a soak-off bowl fill it so that only the linger tips are immersed. Warm the

acetone by placing the bowl in a larger bowl of worm water. This is the only sale way of

warming acetone. Soak the nails for about.


70/191

By only filling the soak off bowl so that the finger

tips are just covered you are minimizing the client's

exposure level. As the client will only need her

extensions to be soaked off once every 6 to 8 weeks

this represents a low amount of exposure and is

therefore considered to be safe. However, as

acetone is an irritant it is possible that a client could

develop an allergic reaction. This is rare but does occasionally happen. In this event the

course of action is to recommend your client has extensions removed by filing only.

Inhalation. Acetone can also enter the body through inhalation. As the acetone

evapourates it`s molecules float in the air and are breathed in. With acetone you can smell

these fumes, but be aware that some chemicals have no smell, but can still be harmful!.

The way to minimise exposure is to remove the fumes from the work area as quickly as

possible. Open a window and avoid using acetone in a sealed room, whether at home or

in a salon. Be aware that using a fan does not improve ventilation, it simply circulates the

air and the air boume fumes.

Acrylic primer.

This liquid is not used for Gel nails, but is common in salons

offering acrylic nails. The acrylic primer for use on The Nail

Trainer is a very weak formulation of methacryfic acid and

water and is suitable only for use on The Nail Trainer.

However acrylic primers for use on human finger nails

usually contain a high proportion of methacrylic acid. Once again this chemical has a very

pungent smell.

This acid is corrosive and therefore an irritant if it comes into contact with skin. If left on

the skin it will cause a mild burning sensation and will cause redness.


71/191

The primer is applied with a small brush (attached to the screw

cap of the bottle) to the natural nail between the end of the

extension tip and the cuticle. Acrylic primer is safe as long as it

is only applied to the natural nail. This is an easy operation to

perform so there is no reason to get the liquid on to the cuticle

or skin. If this should happen wash the affected area several

times with a cotton wad soaked with water. As long as this is

done quickly there should be no harmful effects through absorption.

Inhalation. Methacrylic acid produces very strong vapours. This is one of the reasons why

acrylic primer is always sold in tint bottles. The opening of the bottle is small allowing the

minimum amount of vapour to escape when the lid is off.

Never lean directly over your brush when applying primer as this is the surest way to

breathe in the vapour which can result in discomfort lo the nose and eyes. Should this

happen move away from the vapour and breathe some fresh area. It is important to ensure

adequate ventilation in your work area and as melhacrylic acid is also flammable do not

allow any smoking.

Nail polish remover.

This is similar to acetone in that it is a solvent and therefore has the ability to dissolve

another substance. Nail polish removers commonly contain ethyl acetate and isopropyl

alcohol which is also often used to sanitise the nail.


72/191

Absorption. The polish is removed by pouring a small amount of remover on to a cotton

pad which is then wiped across the surface of the polished nail. Some of the polish remover

will touch the client's skin, however this is a very low level of exposure and is therefore

considered to be safe.

Inhalation. There will be some inhalation of vapour, but this also be low as there is only a

small amount of the liquid on a cotton pad. Nail polish remover is generally considered a

safe product to use.

Adequate ventilation is advisable and it is highly flammable so do not allow smoking in

your work area.

Gel prep and residue remover.

This product has three functions. It used to sanitise and dehydrate the natural nail prior to

Gel product application and to remove the sticky residue from Gel after curing in a light

box. It is similar to nail polish remover and acetone in that it is a solvent and it contains

sopropyl alcohol, ethyl acetate end acetone. The Gel prep and residue remover included in

your Home Learn course contains only isopropyl alcohol so it is a weaker solvent than the

full strength version used on human finger nails.

The method of application is the same for both versions and for

both uses. It is applied by pouring a small amount on to a cotton

pad which is then wiped over the natural nail to sanitise and

dehydrate the nail. For removing the sticky Gel residue it is also

applied to a cotton pad which is pressed firmly onto the nail andthen pulled forward off the free edge. The residue is removed

on the pad and the extension is left dry and shiny.


73/191


74/191

Acrylic liquid.

This is not used in Gel nails, only acrylics. When combined with

acrylic powder this becomes a soft paste which is used to build

acrylic nail extensions. As the name suggests acrylic liquidsusually belong to the methacrylate family of chemicals.

Inhalation and absorption. The adour of acrylic liquid is the most

common smell in the nail industry because in many countries

acrylic is the most popular system. The acrylic paste is applied

with a brush and like all nail products this should not be allowed

to come into contact with the cuticle or the client's skin.

It is the acrylic vapour which is considered the greater risk and

inhalation is the most common way for it to enter the body. It is

very important that the work area is well ventilated in order to

disperse the vapour.

To use acrylic liquid safely a small amount should be decanted from the bottle into a

dappen dish. The bottle should then be immediately re-sealed. The dappen dish should have

a lid so that it can also be sealed when the product is not being

used. Sometimes it is necessary to clean the acrylic brush by

immersing it in the liquid and then wiping it on a tissue. When this

is done put the used tissue in a metal bin with the lid down. These

measures limit the amount of vopour entering the work

environment and so minimise the exposure for both Technician and

client.


75/191


76/191

Technicians should consider wearing a face mask and consider the following advise:

Wipe down the work surface after every treatment with a damp cloth and then wash this out

under a top.

This will remove the dust on the work surface but not the dust in the air.

The only way to do this is to use a clean air system that sucks the dust on to a filter as it is

produced, these systems can be portable or built into the tap of a workstation.

Using a system such as this is the best way to minimise exposure to dust as it will collect

around 80% of the dust produced as long as the filter is changed regularly.


77/191

Nail adhesive.

The adhesives or tip glue used for fixing extension tips to the

natural nail or building fiberglass extensions are from the

cyanoacrylate family of chemicals.

They are also referred to as 'resin' and give off harsh vapours

which can cause irritation to the eyes. The Technician should

therefore avoid leaning directly over the bottle as the adhesive

is being applied. In terms of risk from contact with the skin it

is very unlikely that cyanoacrylate will do any lasting harm though it will stick skin

together very quickly.

Should this happen, wash with soap and water when the adhesive has softened and gently

peel apart or soak and de-bond in acetone. The person most likely to be harmed by nail

adhesive is the Technician. Some acquire the bad habit of biting off hardened adhesive

from the nozzle, sometimes the Technician inadvertently squeezes the bottle at the same

time and when the blockage is cleared, fresh adhesive squirts out of the nozzle and into the

Technician's eye. As the adhesive hits the eye it comes into contact with the tears around

the eye which acts as an accelerator and the eye is subject to the painful effects of the heat

generated by the curing process as the adhesive bonds to the eye. Almost certainly the eye

will shut a fraction after it is hit by the adhesive, thus trapping the adhesive and bonding the

eye shut. If this occurs, do not attempt to force the eyelid open, bathe the eyelashes with

warm water so that they can de-bond and release. Do not force the eye open, keep it

covered, seek medical advice, and after a couple of days the adhesive will release from theeye and it will open.


78/191

Filing dust.

When building fiberglass extensions dust is produced as the shape of the nail is perfect with

the file. Follow similar rules to those explained for acrylic filing dust, i.e. make sure you

work in a well ventilated area and if possible use a dust extraction system

A quick guide to understanding the risks!

Product chemical name common routes of entr y other ri sks

Extensiontip remover

Acetone Absorption and

Inhalation

Fire

Nail polishremover

Ethyl acetateI sopropyl alcohol

Absorption and

Inhalation

fire

el prepresidueremover

Ethyl acetateI sopropyl alcoholAcetone

Absorption and

Inhalation

fire

Acrylic

liquid

Methacrylote Absorption and

Inhalation

fire

Nail tip

Adhesive

Cyano

essential nails

Documents