environment friendly finishes cii prentation

Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 1

DEVELOPMENTS IN

ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY

FINISHES FOR COTTON

FABRICS AND GARMENTSR.B.Chavan

Dept. of Textile Technology,

Indian Institute of Technology,

Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016


PRESENT CONCEPTPOLLUTERS MUST PAY

CRADLE TO GRAVE

WOMB TO TOMB

NOT ONLY FINAL PRODUCT BE ECO FRIENDLY

RAW MATERIALS, PRODUCTION PROCESSES,

PACKAGING, ECO FRENDLY EVEN AFTER

DIPOSAL

MEET EMS 14000 AND SAS 1800 STANDARDS

ECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTS INDENTIFIED BY

ECO LABLES

GREEN MINDED CONSUMER PREFER ECO

PRODUCTS EVEN AT HIGH COST


COTTON DOMINATES

READILY AVAILABLE

AFFORDABLE PRICE

HYDROPHILIC

COMFORTABLE IN TROPICAL CLIMATE

BEING NATURAL ECO FRIENDLY


CONVENTIONAL COTTON

CONVENTIONAL COTTON IS NOT ECO

FRIENDLY

USE OF FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES AND

VARIOUS CROPS RELATED CHEMICALS

DURING COTTON CULTIVATION.

PRESENCE OF THESE CHEMICALS AS

RESIDUE ON COTTON BOLLS

WASHED AWAY DURING PREPARATORY

PROCESSES

WATER POLLUTION


ECO FRIENDLY COTTON

COTTON CULTIVATED WITHOUT USING

FERTILIZERS PESTICIDES AND OTHER

CHEMICALS (ORGANIC FARMING)

RESIDUE OF THESE CHEMICALS REMOVED

DURING FIRST TWO SEASONS OF CULTIVATION

COTTON FROM THIRD SEASON ONWARDS IS

ECO FRIENDLY

INDENTIFIED BY LOGOS

ORGANIC COTTON

GREEN COTTON

NATURAL COTTON


NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON

CULTIVATION SINCE ANCIENT TIME

PISTA GREEN, BROWN ARE POPULAR

COLOURS

NOT POPULAR ON COMMERCIAL SCALE

LOW STAPLE LENGTH

INFERIOR STRENGTH

POOR SPINABILITY

REVIVAL OF NATURALLY COLOUR COTTON

CULTIVATION

NO CHEMICAL PROCESSING REQUIRED

ELIMINATE POLLUTION CAUSED DURING

CHEMICAL PROCESSING


ECO FRIENDLY FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

FINISHING TEATMENTS HELP TO

MAKE CONSUMER SALEABLE

PRODUCT

VALUE ADDITION

IMPART DESIRABLE PROPERTIES


IMPORTANT FINISHES FOR COTTON

EASY CARE/DURABLE PRESS/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING

SOFTENING

ENZYME/BIO FINISHING

WATER PROOF BREATHABLE FINISHING

SOIL RELEASE AND STAIN RELEASE FINISHES

ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHES

UV PROTECTION

EMERGING FINISHES


EASY CARE/WRINKLE FREE

FINISHING

CREASING/WRINKLE FORMATION DURING USE

AND ON WASHING OF COTTON GARMENTS

AFTER WASH MAINTENANCE EXPENSIVE

TREATMENT WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT

TRADITIONALLY KNOWN AS RESIN FINSHING

IMPART CREASE RESISTANT PROPERTY

LOSS IN STRENGTH


PROCESS ROUTE

FABRIC FINISHING

PRE CURE

POST CURE

GARMENT FINSIHING

DIP OR TUMBLE PROCESSES


CHEMICALS USEDCROSS LINKING AGENT

LOW FORMALDEHYDE DMDHEU

EXTRNAL OR BUILT IN CATALYST SYSTEM AND BUFFER

CATALYST

MOST COMMON MgCl2 , CITRIC ACID

WETTING AGENT

HIGH DENSITY PE EMULSION

IMPART HAND

IMPROVE TEAR STRENGTH, ABRASION RESISTANCE

AMINO OR REACTIVE SILICONE

IMPART SOFT HAND

IMPROVE WRINKLE RECOVERY

SILICONE ELASTOMER

IMPART SPRINGINESS

IMPROVE STRENGTH

ACRYLATES

IMPROVE SOIL RELEASE


TYPICAL APPLICATION RECIPE

CROSS LINKING AGENT 40-120 g/l

MgCl2 10-25 g/l

CITRIC ACID 0.3 g/l

SOFTENER (COMBINATION) 40 g/l

WETTING AGENT 1 g/l

pH 4-4.5


QUALITY CONTROL

PHYSICAL TESTS

DRY AND WET CRA

SMOOTH APPEARANCE RATING

%RESIN ADD-ON

TENSILE STRENGTH

ABRASION RESISTANCE

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY


CHEMICAL TEST

Cuen TEST (1N CUPRIETHYLENE DIAMINE

HYDROXIDE)

PULL FIBRES FROM YARN OF THE FINISHED

GARMENT (FROM THE BACKSIDE)

· PUT ON MICROSCOPIC SLIDE

· PUT 1- 2 DROPS OF Cuen SOLUTION

PUT COVER SLIDE

· OBSERVE AFTER 15 min UNDER MICROSCOPE

· RATING 3- 4 IS ACEPTABLE

· RATING < 3 FAILS, LOW CROSSLINKS

RATING > 4 FAILS, HEAVY STRENGTH LOSS


SWELLING RATING MEANING

NONE 5 FULLYCROSSLINKED

SLIGHT OR NONE 4 GOOD CROSS LINKED

MODERATE 3 MODERATE CROSS LINKED

MODERATE TO 2 PRTIALLY CROSS HEAVY LINKED

HEAVY, RAPID 1 LOW CROSS LINKED

RAPID AND 0 NO CROSS LINKED

DISSOLVES


ECO FRIENDLY CROSS LINKING AGENTS

MOST POPULAR CROSS LINKING AGENTS

LOW FORMALDEHYDE (DMDHEU) OR ETHERIFIED (DMeDHEU)

EFFICIENT AND COST EFFECTIVE

RELEASE OF FORMALDEHYDE DURING

DRYING AND CURING,

GARMENT STORAGE AND USE

WORLD WIDE CONCERN BECAUSE OF

IMPACT ON HUMAN HEALTH

ENVIRONMENT

KNOWN TO BE CARCINOGENIC AND DERMATITIS EFFECTS

ACCEPTABLE FORMALDEHYDE LEVEL 20 ppm


POLYCARBOXYLIC ACIDS (PCAs)

WELCH IN 1998 REPORTED THE USE OF

BTCA FOR CROSS LINKING OF COTTON

CATALYST SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE

GOOD CRA

GOOD STRENGTH RETENTION

DURABLE TO WASHING

EXCEEDINGLY HIGH COST PREVENTED

COMMERCIALIZATION


OTHER CARBOXYLIC ACIDS

CITRIC ACID

MALEIC ACID

SUCCINIC ACID

ORDER OF DURABILITY -

BTCA>CA>MALEIC ACID>SUCCINIC ACID


DEMERITS OF PCA FINISH PHOSPHATE CATALYSTS NON ECO FRIENDLY

MOST EFFECTIVE IS SODIUM HYPO PHOSPHITE

EXPENSIVE

REDUCING AGENT

AFFECT SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES

CONSUME LARGE AMOUNT OF OXYGEN FROM

WATER

INFLUENCE AQUATIC LIFE

RECENT ATTEMPTS TO USE TRI SODIUM CITRATE OR COMBINATION OF SODIUM OXALATE AND SODIUM FORMATE

SAFE TO SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES

SAFE TO AQUATIC LIFE


SUMMARY OF PCA FINISH

HIGH COST

NON ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY CATALYST

YELLOWING

THESE PROBLEMS ARE UNDER INVESTIGATION

SOME HAVE BEEN SATISFACTORILY SOLVED

IN NEAR FUTURE PCA WOULD REPLACE CONVENTIONAL

DMDHEU BASED CROSS LINKING AGENTS

RECENT APPROACH IS TO USE

COMBINATION OF HOMO POLYMER OF PMA AND TER

POLYMER OF MALEIC ACID, ACRYLIC ACID AND VINYL

ALCOHOL

FINISH EQUIVALENT TO DMDHEU


SOFTENERS

SILICONE SOFTENERS

CLASSIFICATION

NON REACTIVE

REACTIVE

ORGANO FUNCTIONAL

PRESENTLY MOST POPULAR ORGANO

FUNCTIONAL SILICONE


ECO FRIENDLINESS OF SILICONE

SOFTENERS

SILICONE SOFTENERS ARE ECOLOGYCALLY INERT

NO EFFECT ON AEROBIC OR ANAEROBIC BACTERIA

DO NOT INHIBIT BIOLOGICAL PROCESS DURING WASTE WATER TREATMENT

NO ADVERSE EFFET ON SEED GERMINATION OR PLANT SURVIVAL

DO NOT BIO CONCENTRATE IN AQUATIC LIFE

NO ADVERSE EFFECT ON AQUATIC LIFE AND ANIMAL LIFE

NO SIGNIFICANT BOD

NO THREAT TO INSECT POPULATION AND BIRDS


WATER RESISTANT BREATHABLE FINISH

IMPERMEABLE TO WATER DROPLET

ALLOW THE ESCAPE OF WATER VAPOUR

POSSIBLE TO ACHIEVE BECAUSE OF SIZE DIFFERENCE

LIQUID WATER MOLECULAR SIZE 100 MICRONS DIAMETER

WATER VAPOUR MOLECULAR SIZE 0.0004 MICRONS

SIZE DIFFERENCE FACTOR 2,50,000

SUCH GARMENTS DESIGNED FOR

SPORTS WEAR

SKI WEAR

TRACK SUITS

RAIN WEAR

MOUNTENEERING CLOTHING


CLASSIFICATION OF BREATHABLE FABRICS

HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS USED AS OUTER COVER GARMENT AS WIND CHEATER

LAMINATED FABRICS

LAMINATION OF MICRO POROUS BREATHABLE BARRIER

FILM LIKE PTFE

SUCH PTFE MEMBRANES ARE USED IN GORETEX TWO AND

THREE LAYER LAMINATES OF POLYESTER FABRIC

CLAIM OF 9 BILLION MICRO PORES PER SQUARE INCH WITH

A MAXIMUM PORE SIZE OF 0.2 MICRON

COATED FABRICS

PU COATING MOST POPULAR


BIO FINISHING

APPLICATION OF CELLULASE ENZYMES FOR

FINISHING OF CELLULOSIC FABRICS AND

GARMENTS

CONCEPT DEVELOPED IN 1980’S

PRESENT MAJOR INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION

WASH DOWN OR WORN OUT LOOK (STONE

WASH) ON INDIGO DYED DENIM

PROCESS KNOWN AS BIOSTONING


CELLULASE ENZYME TYPES

1. ACID STABLE (pH 4.5-5.5)

2. NEUTRAL (pH 6.5-7)

3. ALKALI STABLE (pH 9-10)

TEMPERATURE RANGE 40-60oC


ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH

CLOTHING AND TEXTILE MATERIALS ARE CARRRIERS OF ORGANISMS SUCH AS

PATHOGENIC BACTERIA

ODOUR GENERATING BACTERIA

FUNGI

GROWING CONCERN ALL OVER THE WORLD ON THE

DANGERS OF MICROBIAL CONTAMINATION

RECENT OUT BREAK OF DISEASES LIKE AIDS, HEPATITIS

B HAVE INCREASED THE AWARENESS OF THESE HEALTH

HAZARDS AND NEED FOR PROTECTION

NECESSARY TO IMPART ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH TO

FABRIC OR GARMENT


SURGICAL APPARELS

A SURGICAL PATIENT IS AT GREAT RISK AS THE

BACTERIAL AND VIRAL DESEASES ARE SPREAD

THROUGH AIR AND BLOOD

ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHED FABRIC PREVENT THE

GROWTH DISEASE CAUSING MICROBES

ANTI MICROBIAL TREATMENT TO SURGICAL

APPARELS IS ESSENTIAL FOR THE PROTECTION

OF PATIENT, DOCTOR AND NURSE


UNDER GARMENTS AND BABY

CLOTHING

ANTI MICROBIAL UNDER GARMENTS ARE

USEFUL TO PREVENT SKIN RELATED

DISEASES, URINARY TRACK INFECTION

SINCE INTERNAL INTAKE OF ANTI BIOTIC

FOR INFANT IS NOT DESIRABLE

PROTECTIVE ACTION MAY BE ACHIEVED

THROUGH ANTI BACTERIAL CLOTHING


FINISHING TECHNIQUESPAD-DRY-CURE

APPLICATION OF ANTIBACTERIAL AGENT ALONG

WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT SUCH AS

VARIOUS TRADE PRODUCTS

CHITOSAN AND CITRIC ACID

POLY(HEXAMETHYLENE HYDROCHLORIDE) PHMB

METHANOLIC EXTRACT OF TULSI LEAVES


EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES

NEXTEC PROCESS· PATENTED BY NEXTEC APPLICATIONS Inc., USA

· NOVEL PROCESS

· INDIVIDUAL FIBRES WITHIN FABRIC ARE ENCAPSULATED

OR WRAPPED WITH ULTRA THIN FILM OF POLYMER

· CAN BE USED TO IMPART BREATHABLE WATER

RESISTANT FINISH TO FABRIC WITHOUT AFFECTING THE

FABRIC HANDLE

· ALSO POSSIBLE TO IMPART

· WRINKLE RESISTANCE,

· SOIL RELEASE, STAIN RESISTANCE,

· UV PROTECTION

· FLAME RESISTANCE

· MICROBIAL BARRIER


NEXTEC PROCESS

THIS UNIQUE FIBRE ENCAPSULATION PROCESS ACHIEVED USING

SILICONE BASED POLYMERS

POLYURETHANE

POLYACRYLIC POLYMERS

THE PROCESS WOULD OPEN UP MANY

OPPORTUNITIES FOR PROVIDING

MULTI FUNCTIONAL FINISHES TO

COTTON FABRICS AND GARMENTS


UV PROTECTIONINCREASED HEALTH PROBLEMS ON

EXPOSURE OF SKIN TO UV

RADIATIONS DUE DEPLETION OF

OZONE LAYER

· UV PROTECTION CAN BE IMPARTED

BYTREATMENT OF FABRICS OR

GARMENTS WITH SELECTED UV

ABSORBERS


USE OF GENETIC ENGINEERING

BY THE NEXT DECADE GENETIC

MANIPULATION OF COTTON GENE

MAY USHER NEW COTTON VARIETIES

WITH IPROVED PROPERTIES TO

PRODUCE INNOVATIVE EFFECTS

THROUGH FINSHING


CONCLUSIONS

DESIRABLE PROPERTIES CAN BE IMPARTED TO

COTTON BY APPLICATION OF FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

IMPROVE QUALITY OF COTTON

GIVE VALUE ADDITION

MANY INNOVATIVE IDEAS ARE BEING

EXPLORED IN THE FIELD OF FUNCTIONAL

FINISHES

IN THE NEXT DECADE QUITE A FEW NEW

CONCEPTS MAY BE INTRODUCED FOR IMARTING

DESIRABLE PROPERTIES TO COTTON FABRIC

AND GARMENTS.

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