environment friendly finishes cii prentation
TRANSCRIPT
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 1
DEVELOPMENTS IN ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY FINISHES FOR COTTON
FABRICS AND GARMENTSR.B.Chavan
Dept. of Textile Technology,Indian Institute of Technology,Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 2
PRESENT CONCEPTPOLLUTERS MUST PAY
• CRADLE TO GRAVE • WOMB TO TOMB• NOT ONLY FINAL PRODUCT BE ECO FRIENDLY• RAW MATERIALS, PRODUCTION PROCESSES,
PACKAGING, ECO FRENDLY EVEN AFTER DIPOSAL
• MEET EMS 14000 AND SAS 1800 STANDARDS• ECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTS INDENTIFIED BY
ECO LABLES❧ GREEN MINDED CONSUMER PREFER ECO
PRODUCTS EVEN AT HIGH COST
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 3
COTTON DOMINATES• READILY AVAILABLE• AFFORDABLE PRICE• HYDROPHILIC• COMFORTABLE IN TROPICAL CLIMATE• BEING NATURAL ECO FRIENDLY
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 4
CONVENTIONAL COTTON● CONVENTIONAL COTTON IS NOT ECO
FRIENDLY● USE OF FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES AND
VARIOUS CROPS RELATED CHEMICALS DURING COTTON CULTIVATION.
● PRESENCE OF THESE CHEMICALS AS RESIDUE ON COTTON BOLLS
● WASHED AWAY DURING PREPARATORY PROCESSES
● WATER POLLUTION
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 5
ECO FRIENDLY COTTON
• COTTON CULTIVATED WITHOUT USING FERTILIZERS PESTICIDES AND OTHER CHEMICALS (ORGANIC FARMING)
• RESIDUE OF THESE CHEMICALS REMOVED DURING FIRST TWO SEASONS OF CULTIVATION
• COTTON FROM THIRD SEASON ONWARDS IS ECO FRIENDLY
INDENTIFIED BY LOGOS• ORGANIC COTTON• GREEN COTTON• NATURAL COTTON
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 6
NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON
• CULTIVATION SINCE ANCIENT TIME• PISTA GREEN, BROWN ARE POPULAR
COLOURS• NOT POPULAR ON COMMERCIAL SCALE• LOW STAPLE LENGTH• INFERIOR STRENGTH• POOR SPINABILITY• REVIVAL OF NATURALLY COLOUR COTTON
CULTIVATION• NO CHEMICAL PROCESSING REQUIRED• ELIMINATE POLLUTION CAUSED DURING
CHEMICAL PROCESSING
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 7
ECO FRIENDLY FUNCTIONAL FINISHES
• FINISHING TEATMENTS HELP TO
MAKE CONSUMER SALEABLE
PRODUCT
• VALUE ADDITION
IMPART DESIRABLE PROPERTIES
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 8
IMPORTANT FINISHES FOR COTTON
• EASY CARE/DURABLE PRESS/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING
• SOFTENING• ENZYME/BIO FINISHING• WATER PROOF BREATHABLE FINISHING• SOIL RELEASE AND STAIN RELEASE
FINISHES• ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHES• UV PROTECTION• EMERGING FINISHES
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 9
EASY CARE/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING
• CREASING/WRINKLE FORMATION DURING USE AND ON WASHING OF COTTON GARMENTS
• AFTER WASH MAINTENANCE EXPENSIVE
• TREATMENT WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT• TRADITIONALLY KNOWN AS RESIN FINSHING• IMPART CREASE RESISTANT PROPERTY• LOSS IN STRENGTH
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 10
PROCESS ROUTEFABRIC FINISHING
• PRE CURE• POST CURE
GARMENT FINSIHING● DIP OR TUMBLE PROCESSES
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 11
CHEMICALS USEDCROSS LINKING AGENTLOW FORMALDEHYDE DMDHEUEXTRNAL OR BUILT IN CATALYST SYSTEM AND BUFFER
CATALYST• MOST COMMON MgCl2 , CITRIC ACID
WETTING AGENT HIGH DENSITY PE EMULSION• IMPART HAND• IMPROVE TEAR STRENGTH, ABRASION RESISTANCE
AMINO OR REACTIVE SILICONE• IMPART SOFT HAND• IMPROVE WRINKLE RECOVERY
SILICONE ELASTOMER• IMPART SPRINGINESS• IMPROVE STRENGTH
ACRYLATES• IMPROVE SOIL RELEASE
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 12
TYPICAL APPLICATION RECIPECROSS LINKING AGENT 40-120 g/l
MgCl2 10-25 g/l
CITRIC ACID 0.3 g/l
SOFTENER (COMBINATION) 40 g/l
WETTING AGENT 1 g/l
pH 4-4.5
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 13
QUALITY CONTROLPHYSICAL TESTS● DRY AND WET CRA
● SMOOTH APPEARANCE RATING
● %RESIN ADD-ON
● TENSILE STRENGTH
● ABRASION RESISTANCE
● DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 14
CHEMICAL TESTCuen TEST (1N CUPRIETHYLENE DIAMINEHYDROXIDE)PULL FIBRES FROM YARN OF THE FINISHEDGARMENT (FROM THE BACKSIDE)· PUT ON MICROSCOPIC SLIDE· PUT 1- 2 DROPS OF Cuen SOLUTION PUT COVER SLIDE· OBSERVE AFTER 15 min UNDER MICROSCOPE· RATING 3- 4 IS ACEPTABLE· RATING < 3 FAILS, LOW CROSSLINKS RATING > 4 FAILS, HEAVY STRENGTH LOSS
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 15
SWELLING RATING MEANING
❧ NONE 5 FULLYCROSS LINKED
❧ SLIGHT OR NONE 4 GOOD CROSS LINKED
❧ MODERATE 3 MODERATE CROSS LINKED
❧ MODERATE TO 2 PRTIALLY CROSS HEAVY LINKED
❧ HEAVY, RAPID 1 LOW CROSS LINKED
❧ RAPID AND 0 NO CROSS LINKED DISSOLVES
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 16
ECO FRIENDLY CROSS LINKING AGENTS● MOST POPULAR CROSS LINKING AGENTS● LOW FORMALDEHYDE (DMDHEU) OR ETHERIFIED
(DMeDHEU)● EFFICIENT AND COST EFFECTIVE● RELEASE OF FORMALDEHYDE DURING ● DRYING AND CURING, ● GARMENT STORAGE AND USE● WORLD WIDE CONCERN BECAUSE OF ● IMPACT ON HUMAN HEALTH● ENVIRONMENT● KNOWN TO BE CARCINOGENIC AND DERMATITIS
EFFECTS● ACCEPTABLE FORMALDEHYDE LEVEL 20 ppm
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 17
POLYCARBOXYLIC ACIDS (PCAs) ● WELCH IN 1998 REPORTED THE USE OF
BTCA FOR CROSS LINKING OF COTTON
● CATALYST SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE
● GOOD CRA
● GOOD STRENGTH RETENTION
● DURABLE TO WASHING
● EXCEEDINGLY HIGH COST PREVENTED COMMERCIALIZATION
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 18
OTHER CARBOXYLIC ACIDS
● CITRIC ACID
● MALEIC ACID
● SUCCINIC ACID
ORDER OF DURABILITY -
BTCA>CA>MALEIC ACID>SUCCINIC ACID
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 19
DEMERITS OF PCA FINISH● PHOSPHATE CATALYSTS NON ECO FRIENDLY
● MOST EFFECTIVE IS SODIUM HYPO PHOSPHITE
● EXPENSIVE
● REDUCING AGENT
● AFFECT SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES
● CONSUME LARGE AMOUNT OF OXYGEN FROM WATER
● INFLUENCE AQUATIC LIFE
RECENT ATTEMPTS TO USE TRI SODIUM CITRATE OR COMBINATION OF SODIUM OXALATE AND SODIUM FORMATE
● SAFE TO SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES
● SAFE TO AQUATIC LIFE
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 20
SUMMARY OF PCA FINISH● HIGH COST
● NON ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY CATALYST
● YELLOWING
● THESE PROBLEMS ARE UNDER INVESTIGATION
● SOME HAVE BEEN SATISFACTORILY SOLVED
● IN NEAR FUTURE PCA WOULD REPLACE CONVENTIONAL DMDHEU BASED CROSS LINKING AGENTS
RECENT APPROACH IS TO USE
● COMBINATION OF HOMO POLYMER OF PMA AND TER POLYMER OF MALEIC ACID, ACRYLIC ACID AND VINYL
ALCOHOL
● FINISH EQUIVALENT TO DMDHEU
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 21
SOFTENERSSILICONE SOFTENERS
CLASSIFICATION
❧ NON REACTIVE
❧ REACTIVE
❧ ORGANO FUNCTIONAL
PRESENTLY MOST POPULAR ORGANO
FUNCTIONAL SILICONE
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 22
ECO FRIENDLINESS OF SILICONE SOFTENERS
● SILICONE SOFTENERS ARE ECOLOGYCALLY INERT
● NO EFFECT ON AEROBIC OR ANAEROBIC BACTERIA
● DO NOT INHIBIT BIOLOGICAL PROCESS DURING WASTE WATER TREATMENT
● NO ADVERSE EFFET ON SEED GERMINATION OR PLANT SURVIVAL
● DO NOT BIO CONCENTRATE IN AQUATIC LIFE● NO ADVERSE EFFECT ON AQUATIC LIFE AND
ANIMAL LIFE● NO SIGNIFICANT BOD● NO THREAT TO INSECT POPULATION AND BIRDS
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 23
WATER RESISTANT BREATHABLE FINISH● IMPERMEABLE TO WATER DROPLET● ALLOW THE ESCAPE OF WATER VAPOUR● POSSIBLE TO ACHIEVE BECAUSE OF SIZE DIFFERENCE● LIQUID WATER MOLECULAR SIZE 100 MICRONS DIAMETER● WATER VAPOUR MOLECULAR SIZE 0.0004 MICRONS● SIZE DIFFERENCE FACTOR 2,50,000● SUCH GARMENTS DESIGNED FOR ● SPORTS WEAR● SKI WEAR● TRACK SUITS● RAIN WEAR● MOUNTENEERING CLOTHING
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 24
CLASSIFICATION OF BREATHABLE FABRICS
HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS● USED AS OUTER COVER GARMENT AS WIND CHEATER
LAMINATED FABRICS● LAMINATION OF MICRO POROUS BREATHABLE BARRIER
FILM LIKE PTFE● SUCH PTFE MEMBRANES ARE USED IN GORETEX TWO AND
THREE LAYER LAMINATES OF POLYESTER FABRIC● CLAIM OF 9 BILLION MICRO PORES PER SQUARE INCH WITH
A MAXIMUM PORE SIZE OF 0.2 MICRON
● COATED FABRICS● PU COATING MOST POPULAR
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 25
BIO FINISHING● APPLICATION OF CELLULASE ENZYMES FOR
FINISHING OF CELLULOSIC FABRICS AND
GARMENTS
● CONCEPT DEVELOPED IN 1980’S
● PRESENT MAJOR INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION
● WASH DOWN OR WORN OUT LOOK (STONE
WASH) ON INDIGO DYED DENIM
● PROCESS KNOWN AS BIOSTONING
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 26
CELLULASE ENZYME TYPES
1. ACID STABLE (pH 4.5-5.5)2. NEUTRAL (pH 6.5-7)3. ALKALI STABLE (pH 9-10)
TEMPERATURE RANGE 40-60oC
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 27
ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH
CLOTHING AND TEXTILE MATERIALS ARE CARRRIERS OF ORGANISMS SUCH AS
● PATHOGENIC BACTERIA● ODOUR GENERATING BACTERIA● FUNGI● GROWING CONCERN ALL OVER THE WORLD ON THE
DANGERS OF MICROBIAL CONTAMINATION● RECENT OUT BREAK OF DISEASES LIKE AIDS, HEPATITIS
B HAVE INCREASED THE AWARENESS OF THESE HEALTH HAZARDS AND NEED FOR PROTECTION
● NECESSARY TO IMPART ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH TO FABRIC OR GARMENT
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 28
SURGICAL APPARELS
● A SURGICAL PATIENT IS AT GREAT RISK AS THE
BACTERIAL AND VIRAL DESEASES ARE SPREAD
THROUGH AIR AND BLOOD
● ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHED FABRIC PREVENT THE
GROWTH DISEASE CAUSING MICROBES
● ANTI MICROBIAL TREATMENT TO SURGICAL
APPARELS IS ESSENTIAL FOR THE PROTECTION
OF PATIENT, DOCTOR AND NURSE
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 29
UNDER GARMENTS AND BABY CLOTHING
● ANTI MICROBIAL UNDER GARMENTS ARE
USEFUL TO PREVENT SKIN RELATED
DISEASES, URINARY TRACK INFECTION
● SINCE INTERNAL INTAKE OF ANTI BIOTIC
FOR INFANT IS NOT DESIRABLE
PROTECTIVE ACTION MAY BE ACHIEVED
THROUGH ANTI BACTERIAL CLOTHING
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 30
FINISHING TECHNIQUESPAD-DRY-CURE
● APPLICATION OF ANTIBACTERIAL AGENT ALONG
WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT SUCH AS
● VARIOUS TRADE PRODUCTS
● CHITOSAN AND CITRIC ACID
● POLY(HEXAMETHYLENE HYDROCHLORIDE) PHMB
● METHANOLIC EXTRACT OF TULSI LEAVES
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 31
EMERGING TECHNOLOGIESNEXTEC PROCESS
· PATENTED BY NEXTEC APPLICATIONS Inc., USA· NOVEL PROCESS· INDIVIDUAL FIBRES WITHIN FABRIC ARE ENCAPSULATED OR WRAPPED WITH ULTRA THIN FILM OF POLYMER· CAN BE USED TO IMPART BREATHABLE WATER
RESISTANT FINISH TO FABRIC WITHOUT AFFECTING THE FABRIC HANDLE· ALSO POSSIBLE TO IMPART · WRINKLE RESISTANCE, · SOIL RELEASE, STAIN RESISTANCE, · UV PROTECTION · FLAME RESISTANCE· MICROBIAL BARRIER
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 32
NEXTEC PROCESSTHIS UNIQUE FIBRE ENCAPSULATION
PROCESS ACHIEVED USING❧SILICONE BASED POLYMERS❧ POLYURETHANE❧ POLYACRYLIC POLYMERS
THE PROCESS WOULD OPEN UP MANY
OPPORTUNITIES FOR PROVIDING
MULTI FUNCTIONAL FINISHES TO
COTTON FABRICS AND GARMENTS
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 33
UV PROTECTIONINCREASED HEALTH PROBLEMS ON
EXPOSURE OF SKIN TO UV RADIATIONS DUE DEPLETION OF OZONE LAYER
· UV PROTECTION CAN BE IMPARTED
BYTREATMENT OF FABRICS OR
GARMENTS WITH SELECTED UV
ABSORBERS
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 34
USE OF GENETIC ENGINEERING
BY THE NEXT DECADE GENETIC
MANIPULATION OF COTTON GENE
MAY USHER NEW COTTON VARIETIES
WITH IPROVED PROPERTIES TO
PRODUCE INNOVATIVE EFFECTS
THROUGH FINSHING
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 35
CONCLUSIONSDESIRABLE PROPERTIES CAN BE IMPARTED TO COTTON BY APPLICATION OF FUNCTIONAL FINISHES
❧ IMPROVE QUALITY OF COTTON❧ GIVE VALUE ADDITION
MANY INNOVATIVE IDEAS ARE BEING EXPLORED IN THE FIELD OF FUNCTIONAL
FINISHES
IN THE NEXT DECADE QUITE A FEW NEW CONCEPTS MAY BE INTRODUCED FOR IMARTING DESIRABLE PROPERTIES TO COTTON FABRIC AND GARMENTS.