ENCYCLOPEDIA ofCOASTAL SCIENCE

Encyclopedia ofEarth Sciences Series

ENCYCLOPEDIA OF COASTAL SCIENCE

Volume EditorMaurice Schwartz is Professor Emeritus, Department of Geology at Western Washington University, Bellingham, Washington, United States;where he served near the end of his tenure as Dean of the Graduate School and Bureau for Faculty Research. As well as being an author of numer-ous articles which have appeared in the coastal geology literature he was the editor of Spits and Bars (Dowden, Hutchinson & Ross, 1972), BarrierIslands (Dowden, Hutchinson & Ross, 1973), Encyclopedia of Beaches and Coastal Environments (Hutchinson Ross, 1982), and co-edited with Eric Bird The World’s Coastline (Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1985).

Aim of the SeriesThe Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series provides comprehensive and authoritative coverage of all the main areas in the Earth Sciences. Eachvolume comprises a focused and carefully chosen collection of contributions from leading names in the subject, with copious illustrations andreference lists.

These books represent one of the world’s leading resources for the Earth Sciences community. Previous volumes are being updated andnew works published so that the volumes will continue to be essential reading for all professional earth scientists, geologists, geophysicists,climatologists, and oceanographers as well as for teachers and students.

See the back of this volume for a current list of titles in the Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series. Go to www.eseo.com to visit the “EarthSciences Encyclopedia Online”—the online version of this Encyclopedia Series.

About the EditorsProfessor Rhodes W. Fairbridge has edited more than 30 Encyclopedias in the Earth Sciences Series. During his career he has worked as a petro-leum geologist in the Middle East, been a WW II intelligence officer in the SW Pacific and led expeditions to the Sahara, Arctic Canada, ArcticScandinavia, Brazil and New Guinea. He is currently Emeritus Professor of Geology at Columbia University and is affiliated with the GoddardInstitute for Space Studies.

Professor Michael Rampino has published more than 100 papers in professional journals including Science, Nature, and Scientific American.He has worked in such diverse fields as volcanology, planetary science, sedimentology, and climate studies, and has done field work on six continents.He is currently Associate Professor of Earth and Environmental Sciences at New York University and a consultant at NASA’s Goddard Institute forSpace Studies.

Advisory Board

Eric BirdGeostudies, 343 Beach RoadBlack Rock, Victoria 3193MelbourneAustralia

Charles W. FinklCPE Coastal Geology and Geomatics2481 N.W. Boca Raton Blvd.Bacon Raton, FL 33431USA

Saskia JelgersmaElzenlaan 6Bergen aan Zee 1865 BMThe Netherlands

Dieter H. KelletatUniversität-GH EssenFB9-PhysiogeographieUniversitaetsstrasse 15Essen 1 D-45117Germany

Nicholas C. KrausU.S. Army, Coastal Hydraulics LaboratoryVicksburg, MS 39180USA

Paolo A. PirazzoliCNRS – Laboratoire de Geographie Physique1, Place Aristide Briand92195 Meudon cedexFrance

ENCYCLOPEDIA ofCOASTAL SCIENCE

edited by

MAURICE L. SCHWARTZDepartment of Geology

Western Washington University, WA, USA

ENCYCLOPEDIA OF EARTH SCIENCES SERIES

A C.I.P. Catalogue record for this book is available from the Library of Congress

ISBN-13 978-1-4020-1903-6 (HB)ISBN-13 978-1-4020-3565-4 (e-book)ISBN-10 1-4020-1903-3 (HB)ISBN-10 1-4020-3565-9 (e-book)

Published by Springer,PO Box 17, 3300 AA Dordrecht, The Netherlands

Printed on acid-free paper

Every effort has been made to contact the copyright holders of the figures and tables which have been reproduced from other sources. Anyone whohas not been properly credited is requested to contact the publishers, so that due acknowledgement may be made in subsequent editions.

All rights reserved© 2005 SpringerNo part of this work may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical,photocopying, microfilming, recording or otherwise, without written permission from the Publisher, with the exception of any material suppliedspecifically for the purpose of being entered and executed on a computer system, for exclusive use by the purchaser of the work.

Printed in the Netherlands

To Evelyn Kest, my companion and inspiration

List of Contributors xv

Foreword xxxiii

Preface xxxv

Accretion and Erosion Waves on Beaches 1Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins

Africa, Coastal Ecology 4Anton McLachlan

Africa, Coastal Geomorphology 9Antony R. Orme

Airborne Laser Terrain Mapping andLight Detection and Ranging 21

Stephen P. Leatherman, Dean Whitman, and Keqi Zhang

Algal Rims 24Jacques Laborel

Alluvial-Plain Coasts 25Daniel F. Belknap

Altimeter Surveys, Coastal Tides, and Shelf Circulation 27

Guoqi Han

Antarctica, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology 28Andrew McMinn

Aquaculture 33Robert R. Stickney

Archaeological Site Location, Effect ofSea-Level Change 38

Melanie J. Stright

Archaeology 40Lucille Lewis Johnson

Arctic, Coastal Ecology 45Jean-François Hamel and Annie Mercier

Arctic, Coastal Geomorphology 49H. Jesse Walker

Artificial Islands 55Marcel J.F. Stive

Asia, Eastern, Coastal Ecology 56Donald Macintosh

Asia, Eastern, Coastal Geomorphology 67D. Eisma

Contents

Asia, Middle East, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology 71

Paul Sanlaville and Abel Prieur

Asia, Southern (see Indian Ocean Coasts) 83

Asteroid-Impact Coasts 83Rhodes W. Fairbridge

Atlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology 84Annie Mercier and Jean-François Hamel

Atlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal Geomorphology 88Jim D. Hansom

Atolls 95David Hopley

Australia, Coastal Ecology 96Karen S. Edyvane

Australia, Coastal Geomorphology 110Eric Bird

Barrier Islands 117Miles O. Hayes

Barrier 119Eric Bird

Barriers, Gravel (see Gravel Barriers) 120

Bars 120Brian Greenwood

Bay Beaches 129Karl F. Nordstrom

Beach and Nearshore Instrumentation 130Robin Davidson-Arnott

Beach Cusps (see Rhythmic Patterns) 138

Beach Drain 138Per Bruun

Beach Erosion 140Edward J. Anthony

Beach Features 145Michael J. Chrzastowski

Beach Nourishment 147Charles W. Finkl and H. Jesse Walker

Beach Processes 161John R. Dingler

Beach Profile 169Nicholas C. Kraus

Beach Rating (see Rating Beaches) 172

Beach Ridges 172Ervin G. Otvos

Beach Safety (see Lifesaving and Beach Safety) 177

Beach Sediment Characteristics 177Alan S. Trenhaile

Beach Stratigraphy 179Yoshiki Saito

Beach Use and Behaviors 181Niels West

Beachrock 183Robert J. Turner

Beaufort Wind Scale 186Dilip K. Barua

Bioconstruction 186William T. Fox

Bioengineered Shore Protection 188Kevin R. Hall

Bioerosion 191William T. Fox

Biogenous Coasts (see Vegetated Coasts) 192

Biogeomorphology 192Martin J. Baptist

Bioherms and Biostromes 194Jacques Laborel

Black and Caspian Seas, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology 194Yuri Dolotov and Pavel Kaplin

Bluffs (see Cliffed Coasts) 203

Bogs 203Martyn Waller

Boulder Barricades 204Peter S. Rosen

Boulder Beaches 206John McKenna

Boulder Pavements 208Jim D. Hansom

Bypassing at Littoral Drift Barriers 210Per Bruun

Capping of Contaminated Coastal Areas 216Ram K. Mohan

Carbonate Sandy Beaches 218Andrew D. Short

Caribbean Islands, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology 221Gillian Cambers

Carrying Capacity in Coastal Areas 226M. MacLeod and J.Andrew G. Cooper

Cays 227David Hopley

Central America (see Middle America) 227

Chalk Coasts 227Vincent May

Changing Sea Levels 229Nils-Axel Mörner

Cheniers 233Ervin G. Otvos

Classification of Coasts (see Holocene Coastal Geomorphology) 235

Cleaning Beaches 235Niels West

Cliffed Coasts 237Alan S. Trenhaile

Cliffs, Erosion Rates 240Tsuguo Sunamura

Cliffs, Lithology versus Erosion Rates 241Tsuguo Sunamura

Climate Patterns in the Coastal Zone 243Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins

Coastal Boundaries 246Peter H.F. Graber

Coastal Changes, Gradual 251B.G. Thom and P.J. Cowell

Coastal Changes, Rapid 253David B. Scott

Coastal Climate 255David Greenland

Coastal Currents 259Guy Gelfenbaum

Coastal Engineering (see Shore Protection Structures;Navigation Structures) 260

Coastal Hoodoos 260Shin Wang

Coastal Lakes and Lagoons 263George F. Oertel

Coastal Modeling and Simulation 266V. Chris Lakhan

Coastal Processes (see Beach Processes) 270

Coastal Sedimentary Facies 270H. Edward Clifton

Coastal Soils 278Charles W. Finkl

Coastal Subsidence 302Zhongyuan Chen and John Rybczyk

Coastal Temperature Trends 304George A. Maul

Coastal Upwelling and Downwelling 306Dilip K. Barua

Coastal Warfare 308Peter L. Guth

Coastal Wells 311Yaacov Nir

viii CONTENTS

Coastal Wind Effects 312Terry R. Healy

Coastal Zone Management 313Peter W. French

Coastline Changes 319Eric Bird

Coasts, Coastlines, Shores, and Shorelines 323George F. Oertel

Cohesive Sediment Transport 327Parmeshwar L. Shrestha and Alan F. Blumberg

Computer Simulation (see Coastal Modeling and Simulation) 330

Conservation of Coastal Sites 330Vincent May

Continental Shelves 337A.W. Niedoroda

Conversion Tables (see Appendix 1) 339

Coral Reef Coasts 339Charles R.C. Sheppard

Coral Reef Islands 342Gisèle Muller-Parker

Coral Reefs 343David Hopley

Coral Reefs, Emerged 349David Hopley

Cross-Shore Sediment Transport 352Richard J. Seymour

Cross-Shore Variation of Grain Size on Beaches 353Philip D. Osborne and David P. Simpson

Cuspate Forelands 354Stephen J. Craig-Smith

Dalmatian Coasts 356Dieter Kelletat

Dams, Effect on Coasts 357Jiyu Chen

Databases (see Appendix 4) 359

Dating (see Geochronology) 359

Datum (see Sea-Level Datums) 359

Debris (see Marine Debris–Onshore, Offshore, Seafloor Litter) 359

Deltaic Ecology 359John M. Rybczyk

Deltas 362Shea Penland and Mark A. Kulp

Demography of Coastal Populations 368Iver W. Duedall and George A. Maul

Depth of Closure on Sandy Coasts 374Andrew Morang and William A. Birkemeier

Depth of Disturbance 377John P. Ahrens

Desalination 378Bénédicte Cherbuy and Jean-Christophe Aznar

Desert Coasts 379Rodman E. Snead

Dewatering (see Beach Drain) 387

Developed Coasts 387Nancy L. Jackson and Karl F. Nordstrom

Dikes 388Pieter G.E.F. Augustinus

Dissipative Beaches 389Douglas J. Sherman

Dredging of Coastal Environments 390Per Bruun

Drift and Swash Alignments 395Eric Bird

Driftwood 397Thomas A. Terich

Dune Calcarenite (see Eolianite) 398

Dune Ridges 398Terry R. Healy

Dynamic Equilibrium of Beaches 399Robert G. Dean

Economic Value of Beaches 401William B. Stronge

El Niño–Southern Oscillation (ENSO) 403Henry F. Diaz

Endogenic and Exogenic Factors 407Henry Bokuniewicz

Energy and Sediment Budgets of theGlobal Coastal Zone 408

Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins

Engineering Applications of Coastal Geomorphology 415

John R.C. Hsu

Environmental Quality 419Michael J. Kennish

Eolianite 426Eric Bird

Eolian Processes 428Patrick A. Hesp

Erosion: Historical Analysis and Forecasting 428Mark Crowell, Stephen P. Leatherman, and Bruce Douglas

Erosion Processes 432Michael R. Rampino

Estuaries, Anthropogenic Impacts 434Michael J. Kennish

Estuaries 436Terry R. Healy

Eustasy 439Vivian Gornitz

CONTENTS ix

Europe, Coastal Ecology 442J. Pat Doody

Europe, Coastal Geomorphology 452Dieter Kelletat and Anja Scheffers

Faulted Coasts 463Roland P. Paskoff

Forecasting (see Erosion: Historical Analysis and Forecasting) 466

Geochronology 467Gerhard Schellmann and Helmut Brückner

Geodesy 472Michael P. Stewart

Geographic Information Systems 472Shawn M. Boeser

Geographical Coastal Zonality 474Dieter H. Kelletat

Geohydraulic Research Centers 477James R. Houston

Geotextile Applications 479Ram K. Mohan and C.G.R. Nair

Glaciated Coasts 481Daniel F. Belknap

Global Positioning Systems 485Shawn M. Boeser

Global Vulnerability Analysis 486Robert J. Nicholls and Frank M.J. Hoozemans

Global Warming (see Greenhouse Effect and Global Warming) 491

Glossary of Coastal Geomorphology (see Appendix 5) 491

Gravel Barriers 491Julian D. Orford

Gravel Beaches 492David P. Simpson

Greenhouse Effect and Global Warming 494James G. Titus

Gross Transport 502Richard J. Seymour

Ground-Penetrating Radar 503Ilya Buynevich and Duncan M. FitzGerald

Groundwater (see Hydrology of the Coastal Zone) 507

Hazards (see Natural Hazards) 508

Headland-Bay Beach 508Luis J. Moreno

Health Benefits 511Roger H. Charlier and Marie-Claire P. Chaineux

Hindcasting (see Wave Hindcast) 515

History, Coastal Ecology 515J. Pat Doody

History, Coastal Geomorphology 519H. Jesse Walker and Molly McGraw

History, Coastal Protection 526Roger H. Charlier

Holocene Coastal Geomorphology 527Dieter Kelletat

Holocene Epoch 529Neil Roberts

Honeycomb Weathering 529George Mustoe

Hoodoos (see Coastal Hoodoos) 530

Human Impact on Coasts 530Richard A. Davis, Jr.

Hydrology of the Coastal Zone 535Diane Horn

Ice-Bordered Coasts 542H. Jesse Walker

Indian Ocean Coasts, Coastal Ecology 546Baban Ingole

Indian Ocean Coasts, Coastal Geomorphology 554G.N. Nayak

Indian Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecologyand Geomorphology 557

M. Wafar, Sayeeda Wafar, and Prasanna Yennavar

Ingression, Regression, and Transgression 564Henry Bokuniewicz

Instrumentation (see Beach and Nearshore Instrumentation) 565

Isostasy 565Kurt Lambeck

Jet Probes 572Charles W. Finkl and Lindino A. Benedet

Journal Listing (see Appendix 2) 580

Karst Coasts 581Roland P. Paskoff

Klint 586Anto Raukas

Lagoons (see Coastal Lakes and Lagoons) 588

Landslides (see Mass Wasting) 588

Late Quaternary Marine Transgression 588Nils-Axel Mörner

Lifesaving and Beach Safety 589B. Chris Brewster

Light Detection and Ranging (LIDAR) (see Airborne Laser Terrain Mapping) 592

Litter (see Marine Debris) 592

Littoral 592Henry Bokuniewicz

Littoral Cells 594Douglas L. Inman

Littoral Drift Gradient 599Terry R. Healy

x CONTENTS

Log-Spiral Beach (see Headland-Bay Beach) 600

Longshore Sediment Transport 600Richard J. Seymour

Machair 601William Ritchie

Managed Retreat 602William J. Neal, David M. Bush, and Orrin H. Pilkey

Management (see Coastal Zone Management) 606

Mangroves, Ecology 606F. Blasco, M. Aizpuru, and J. Besnehard

Mangroves, Geomorphology 611Eric Bird

Mangroves, Remote Sensing 614F. Blasco, M. Aizpura, and D. Din Ndongo

Mapping Shores and Coastal Terrain 618Robert A. Morton

Marine Debris—Onshore, Offshore, Seafloor Litter 623A.T. Williams, D.T. Tudor and M.R. Gregory

Marine Parks 628Vincent May

Marine Terraces 632Paolo A. Pirazzoli

Mass Wasting 633Alan S. Trenhaile

Meteorological Effects on Coasts 636Gregory W. Stone and Robert A. Muller

Microtidal Coasts 638J. Andrew G. Cooper

Middens (see Shell Middens) 639

Middle America, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology 639Alejandro Yáñez-Arancibia

Mining of Coastal Materials 645W.R. Osterkamp and R.A. Morton

Modeling Platforms, Terraces, and Coastal Evolution 647Douglas L. Inman, Scott A. Jenkins, and Patricia M. Masters

Modes and Patterns of Shoreline Change 651Francis A. Galgano and Stephen P. Leatherman

Monitoring Coastal Ecology 656J. Pat Doody

Monitoring Coastal Geomorphology 663Andrew Morang and Laurel T. Gorman

Muddy Coasts 674Terry R. Healy

Natural Hazards 678Vivian Gornitz

Navigation Structures 684Nicholas C. Kraus

Nearshore Geomorphological Mapping 685Charles W. Finkl

Nearshore Sediment Transport Measurement 698Ping Wang

Nearshore Wave Measurement 702Ping Wang and Gregory W. Stone

Net Transport 705Richard Seymour

New Zealand, Coastal Ecology 705Russell Cole and Conrad Pilditch

New Zealand, Coastal Geomorphology and Oceanography 709

Terry R. Healy

North America, Coastal Ecology 714Michael S. Kearney and J. Court Stevenson

North America, Coastal Geomorphology 721Douglas J. Sherman

Notches 728Dieter H. Kelletat

Numerical Modeling 730Magnus Larson

Oil Spills 734Erich R. Gundlach

Oil Spills, High-Energy Coasts 736William Ritchie

Offshore Sand Banks and Linear Sand Ridges 737Randolph A. McBride

Offshore Sand Sheets 739Michael S. Fenster

Organizations (see Appendix 3) 745

Pacific Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology 746Mark D. Merlin

Pacific Ocean Islands, Coastal Geomorphology 754Patrick D. Nunn

Paleocoastlines 757John C. Kraft

Paraglacial Coasts 760Donald L. Forbes

Peat 762Ian Shennan

Periglacial (see Ice-Bordered Coasts) 764

PhotogrammetryE. Robert Thieler and Cheryl J. Hapke 764

Physical Models 769Michael S. Bruno

Placer Deposits 771Paul D. Komar

Pleistocene Epoch 772Dieter H. Kelletat

Pluvial Lake Shore Deposits 773Detlef A. Warnke and Hillert Ibbeken

Polders 778Joost H.J. Terwindt

Pressure Gradient Force 780George A. Maul

Profiling, Beach 781Nicholas C. Kraus

CONTENTS xi

RADARSAT-2 784Gordon C. Staples

Rating Beaches 785Stephen P. Leatherman

Reclamation 791P.P. Wong

Reefs, Non-Coral 795William T. Fox

Reflective Beaches 795Douglas J. Sherman

Remote Sensing of Coastal Environments 797Elijah W. Ramsey III

Remote Sensing: Wetlands Classification 804Victor Klemas

Rhythmic Patterns 807Paul D. Komar

Ria 810Eric Bird

Rip Currents 811Robert W. Brander

Ripple Marks 813Carl L. Amos and Patrick L. Friend

Rock Coast Processes 815Alan S. Trenhaile

Salt Marsh 819Terry R. Healy

Sampling Methods (see Monitoring, Coastal Ecology;Monitoring, Coastal Geomorphology) 820

Sand Rights 820Katherine Stone, Orville Magoon, Billy Edge,and Lesley Ewing

Sandy Coasts 821Andrew D. Short

Scour and Burial of Objects in Shallow Water 825Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins

Sea-Level Change (see Changing Sea Levels) 830

Sea-Level Changes During the Last Millennium 830Roland Gehrels

Sea-Level Datums (see Tidal Datums) 833

Sea-Level Indicators, Biologic 833Jacques Laborel and Françoise Laborel-Deguen

Sea-Level Indicators—Biological in Depositional Sequences 835

David B. Scott and Franco S. Medioli

Sea-Level Indicators, Geomorphic 836Paolo A. Pirazzoli

Sea-Level Rise, Effect 838James G. Titus

Sediment Analysis and Classification (see Beach SedimentCharacteristics) 846

Sediment Budget 846Jeffrey H. List

Sediment Suspension by Waves 850Rowland J. Atkins

Sediment Transport (see Cross-Shore Sediment Transport;Longshore Sediment Transport) 853

Sedimentary Basins 853Saskia Jelgersma

Seismic Displacement 859Paolo A. Pirazzoli

Sequence Stratigraphy 860Arthur D. Donovan

Setbacks 863Michael S. Fenster

Sharm Coasts 867Dieter H. Kelletat

Shelf Processes 867Alan W. Niedoroda

Shell Middens 870Sarah K. Campbell

Shingle Beach (see Gravel Beach) 873

Shore Platforms 873Wayne Stephenson and Robert Kirk

Shore Protection Structures 875Nicholas C. Kraus

Shoreface 877H. Edward Clifton

Simple Beach and Surf Zone Models 881John P. Ahrens

Sloughs (see Estuaries; Tidal Creeks) 883

Small Islands 883George Maul

Sociology, Beaches (see Beach Use and Behaviors) 888

South America, Coastal Ecology 888Simone Rabelo da Cunha, Omar Defeo, Anita de Alava, RosanaMoreira da Rocha, Beatrice Padovani Ferreira, Mauro Maida,Tognella-M.M.P. De-Rosa, Carlos Emilio Bemvenuti,Joel C. Creed and André S. Barreto

South America, Coastal Geomorphology 905Norbert P. Psuty and Chizuko Mizobe

Spits 909Takaaki Uda

Storm Surge 912Vivian Gornitz

Storms (see Meterological Effects) 914

Strandflat 914Tormod Klemsdal

Structures (see Shore Protection Structures;Navigation Structures) 915

Submarine Groundwater Discharge 915Steven L. Krupa and Cynthia J. Gefvert

xii CONTENTS

Submerged Coasts 922Wyss W.-S. Yim

Submerging Coasts 924Paolo A. Pirazzoli

Surf Modeling 925Marshall D. Earle

Surf Zone Processes 929William R. Dally

Surfing 936William R. Dally

Synthetic Aperture Radar Systems 937R. Keith Raney

Tafone 940George Mustoe

Tectonics and Neotectonics 941Paolo A. Pirazzoli

Thalassostatic Terraces 948Rhodes W. Fairbridge

Thalassotherapy (see Health Benefits) 949

Tidal Creeks 949Terry R. Healy

Tidal Datums 950Edward B. Hands

Tidal Environments 954B.W. Flemming

Tidal Inlets 958Duncan M. FitzGerald

Tidal Flats 965V. Semeniuk

Tidal Flats, Open Ocean Coasts 975Congxian Li, Ping Wang, and Daidu Fan

Tidal Power 978Roger H. Charlier

Tidal Prism 981Terry M. Hume

Tide-Dominated Coasts 982Miles O. Hayes

Tide Gauges 984Guy Woppelmann and Paolo A. Pirazzoli

Tide Mill 986Roger H. Charlier

Tides 987Bruce Parker

Time Series Modeling 996V. Chris Lakhan

Topic Categories (see Appendix 6) 1001

Tors 1001Maurice Schwartz

Tourism and Coastal Development 1002Marc L. Miller and Nina P. Hadley

Tourism, Criteria for Coastal Sites 1009P.P. Wong

Tracers 1013Paolo Ciavola

Trottoirs 1017David Hopley

Tsunamis 1017Alastair Dawson

Uplift Coasts 1022Terry R. Healy

Vegetated Coasts 1024Denise J. Reed

Vibracore 1026Charles W. Finkl and Syed Khalil

Vorticity 1036George A. Maul

Volcanic Coasts 1038Terry R. Healy

Washover Effects 1041William Ritchie

Warfare (see Coastal Warfare) 1043

Water Quality 1043Katherine Pond

Wave and Tide-Dominated Coasts 1046Edward J. Anthony

Wave Climate 1049George Maul

Wave–Current Interaction 1052Patricia L. Wiberg

Wave-Dominated Coasts 1053Miles O. Hayes

Wave Environments 1056Andrew D. Short

Wave Focusing 1059Terry R. Healy

Wave Hindcasting 1060Dilip K. Barua

Wave Power 1063Roger H. Charlier

Wave Refraction Diagrams 1065Gerhard Masselink

Waves 1069Gerhard Masselink

Weathering in the Coastal Zone 1074Rhodes W. Fairbridge

Wetlands 1077Denise J. Reed

Wetland Restoration 1081William Streever

Appendix 1: Conversion Tables 1087

Appendix 2: Journals 1089Charles W. Finkl

Appendix 3: Organizations 1100Charles W. Finkl

CONTENTS xiii

Appendix 4: Databases 1145Pravin D. Kunte

Appendix 5: Glossary of Coastal Geomorphology 1155Eric Bird

Appendix 6: Topic Categories 1193Maurice Schwartz

Index 1197

xiv CONTENTS

John P. Ahrens6702 Springfield DriveMason Neck VA 22079USAPhone: 1 703 550 8412Fax: 1 301 713 0799e-mail: j.ahrens@worldnet.att.net

Depth of DisturbanceSimple Beach and Surf Zone Models

Marie AizpuruLaboratoire d’Ecologie Terrestre (UMR 5552)Centre de Teledetection13, avenue de Colonel Roche, BP 407231029 Toulouse Cedex 4France

Mangroves, EcologyMangroves, Remote Sensing

Anita de AlavaUDECIMAR, Facultad de CienciasIgua 4225,PO Box 107731140 MontevideoUruguay

South America, Coastal Ecology

Carl L. AmosSchool of Ocean and Earth ScienceSouthampton Oceanography CentreEmpress Dock, SouthamptonHampshire SO14 3ZHUKPhone: 44 023 80 596068Fax: 44 023 80 593059e-mail: c.amos@soc.soton.ac.uk

Ripple Marks

Edward J. AnthonyCoastal Geomorphology and Shoreline

Management Unit JE 2208Universite du Littoral Côte d’OpaleMREN, 32 Avenue Foch, 62930 WimereuxFrancePhone: �33 3 28 26 01 22,Fax:�33 3 28 23 74 13e-mail: edward.anthony@univ-littoral.fr

Beach ErosionWave and Tide-Dominated Coasts

Rowland J. AtkinsGolder Associates#204-4430 Chatterton WayVictoria BC V8X 5J2Canada

Contributors

Phone: 1 250 881 7372Fax: 1 250 881 7470e-mail: ratkins@golder.com

Sediment Suspension by Waves

Pieter G.E.F. AugustinusDepartment of Physical GeographyUniversity of UtrechtHeidelberglaan 2PO Box 80.115Utrecht 3508 TCThe NetherlandsPhone: 31 30 2532777Fax: 31 30 2531145e-mail: p.augustinus@geog.uu.nl

Dikes

Jean-Christophe AznarDesmid-CNRS1, rue Parmentier13200 ArlesFrancePhone: 04 90 93 86 86e-mail: alderv.desmid.wanadoo.fr

Desalination

Martin J. BaptistWl/delft hydraulicsRotterdamseweg 185DelftThe NetherlandsPhone: 31 15 285 8585Fax: 31 15 285 8582e-mail: info@wldelft.nl

Biogeomorphology

André BarretoUniversidade do Vale ItajaiCentro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do MarRua Uruguai, 458Itajai SCBrasil CEP: 88302-202e-mail: abarreto@cttmar.univali.br

South America, Coastal Ecology

Dilip K. Barua3370 East 45th AvenueVancouver, BC V5R 3E7CanadaPhone: 604 871 1594e-mail: dkbarua@shaw.ca

Beaufort Wind ScaleCoastal Upwelling and Downwelling

Wave Hindcasting

Daniel F. BelknapDepartment of Earth SciencesUniversity of MaineOrono ME 04469USAPhone: 1 207 581 2159Fax: 1 207 581 2202e-mail: belknap@maine.edu

Alluvial-Plain CoastsGlaciated Coasts

Carlos Emilio BemvenutiFundação Universidade Federa do Rio

Grande (FURG)Departmento De OceanografiaCP 474, Rio GrandeBrasil, CEP: 96201-900e-mail: docbemve@furg.br

South America, Coastal Ecology

Lindino A. BenedetCoastal Planning and Engineering, Inc.2481 West Boca Raton BoulevardBoca Raton FL 33431USA

Jet Probes

Jérôme BesnehardTOTAL FINA ELF-DGEP/AEO2, place de la Coupole-la Defence 692078 Paris La Defence cedexFrance

Mangrove, Ecology

Eric BirdGeostudies343 Beach RoadBlack Rock, Victoria 3193MelbourneAustraliaPhone: 61 3 9589 3738Fax: 61 3 9589 3738e-mail: ecfb@unimelb.edu.au

Australia, Coastal Geomorphology BarrierCoastline Changes

Drift and Swash AlignmentsGlossary of Coastal Geomorphology

EolianiteMangroves, Coastal Geomorphology

Ria Coasts

William A. BirkemeierUS Army Corps of EngineersEngineer Research and Development Center1261 Duck Road, Kitty Hawk NC 27949USA

Depth of Closure on Sandy Beaches

François BlascoLaboratoire d’Ecologie TerrestreUMR 5552-BP407231029 Toulouse Cedex 4, FrancePhone: 33 5 61 55 85 43Fax: 33 5 61 55 85 44e-mail: francois.blasco@cict.fr

Mangroves, EcologyMangroves, Remote Sensing

Alan F. BlumbergHydroQual, Inc.1200 MacArthur Blvd.Mahwah NJ 07430,USAPhone: 201 529 5151

Cohesive Sediment Transport

Shawn M. BoeserUnited NationsOCHA Humanitarian Information Centre

Liberiae-mail: smb@drizzle.com

Geographic Information SystemsGlobal Positioning Systems

Henry BokuniewiczMarine Sciences Research CenterState University of New YorkStony Brook NY 11794USAPhone: 1 631 632 8674Fax: 1 631 632 8820e-mail: hbokuniewicz@notes.cc.sunysb.edu

Endogenic and Exogenic FactorsIngression, Regression, Transgression

Littoral

Robert W. BranderSchool of Biological Earth and Environmental SciencesUniversity of New South WalesSydney NSW 2052AustraliaPhone: 61 2 9385 1558Fax: 61 2 9385 2899e-mail: rbrander@unsw.edu.au

Rip Currents

B. Chris BrewsterUnited States Life Saving Association3850 Sequoia StreetSan Diego, CA 92109–6518USAPhone: 858 581 1221Fax: 720 535 3274e-mail: brewster@lifesaver1.com

Lifesaving and Beach Safety

Helmut BrücknerDepartment of GeographyUniversity of MarburgDeutschhausstr. 10D-35032 MarburgGermanyPhone: �49 06421 282 4261Fax: �49 06421 282 8950e-mail: h.brueckner@mailer.uni-marburg.de

Geochronology

Michael BrunoDavidson LaboratoryStevens Institute of TechnologyCastle Point on HudsonHoboken NJ 07030USAPhone: 1 201 216 5338Fax: 1 201 216 8214e-mail: mbruno@stevens-tech.edu

Physical Models

Per Bruun32 Baynard Cove RoadHilton Head Island, SC 29928USAPhone: 1 843 671 3862Fax: 1 843 785 1154

Beach DrainBypassing at Littoral Drift BarriersDredging of Coastal Environments

David M. BushDepartment of GeologyState University of West GeorgiaCarrollton GA 30118USA

Managed Retreat

Ilya V. BuynevichDepartment of Earth SciencesBoston UniversityBoston MA 02215USA

xvi CONTRIBUTORS

Phone: 1 617 353 2530Fax: 1 617 353 3290e-mail: valeriy@bu.edu

Ground-Penetrating RadarGillian CambersPO Box 783, RinconPuerto Rico 00677, USAPhone: 1 787 832 3585Fax: 1 787 265 2880e-mail: g_cambers@hotmail.com

Caribbean Islands, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology

Sarah K. CampbellDepartment of AnthropologyWestern Washington UniversityBellingham WA 98225USAPhone: 1 360 650 4793Fax: 1 360 650 7668e-mail: campbsk@cc.wwu.edu

Shell MiddensMarie-Claire P. ChaineaurInstitute for Development, Research, and Enquiry in Coastal Zone Studies

Brussels, BelgiumHealth Benefits

Roger H. CharlierFree University of BrusselsBrusselsBelgium B-1050Phone: 32 2 649 0755Fax: 32 2 649 0755e-mail: rhcharlier@hotmail.com

roger.charlier@pop.kpn.beHealth Benefits

History, Coastal ProtectionTidal Power

Tide MillWave Power

Zhongyuan ChenDepartment of GeographyEast China Normal UniversityShanghai 200062ChinaPhone: 86 21 62232706/62233303Fax: 86 21 62232466/62756217e-mail: z.chen@sklec.ecnu.edu.cn

Coastal SubsidenceJiyu ChenDepartment of GeographyEast China Normal UniversityShanghai 200062Chinae-mail: chensklec@citiz.net

Dams, Effect on CoastsBénédicte CherbuyCEFE-CNRSRoute de Mende34000 MontpellierFrancePhone: 04 67 61 32 74Fax: 04 67 41 06 16e-mail: cherbuy@cefe.cnrs-mop.fr

DesalinationMichael J. ChrzastowskiIllinois State Geological Survey615 East Peabody DriveChampaign IL 61820-6964USAPhone: 1 217 244 2194Fax: 1 217 244 0029e-mail: chrzasto@isgs.uiuc.edu

Beach Features

Paolo CiavolaDipartimento di Scienze Della Terra

Università di FerraraCorso Ercole l d’Este, 32444100 Ferrara, ItalyPhone: 39 0532 293720Fax: 39 0532 206468e-mail: ciavola@libero.it

cv@inife.itTracers

H. Edward CliftonUS Geological Survey345 Middlefield Rd., MS 999Menlo Park CA 94025USAPhone: 1 650 964 1552e-mail: eclifton@earthlink.net

Coastal Sedimentary FaciesShoreface

Russell G. ColeNIWARPO Box 893, NelsonNew ZealandPhone: 64 3 548 1715Fax: 64 3 548 1716e-mail: R.Cole@niwa.cri.nz

New Zealand, Coastal Ecology

J. Andrew G. CooperEnvironmental StudiesUniversity of UlsterColeraine, Co. LondonderryBT52 1SA, Northern IrelandUKPhone: 44 1265 324429Fax: 44 1265 324911e-mail: jag.cooper@ulst.ac.uk

Microtidal CoastsCarrying Capacity in Coastal Areas

P.J. CowellCoastal Studies UnitDepartment of GeographyUniversity of SydneySydney NSW 2006AustraliaPhone: 61 2 9351 2189Fax: 61 2 9351 3644e-mail: p.cowell@csu.usyd.edu.au

Coastal Changes, Gradual

Stephen J. Craig-SmithSchool of Tourism and Leisure ManagementUQ Business SchoolThe University of QueenslandIpswich, Qld 4305AustraliaPhone: 61 7 3381 1007Fax: 61 7 3381 1012e-mail: s.craigsmith@uq.edu.au

Cuspate Forelands

Joel C. CreedUniversidade do Estado do Rio de JaneiroDepartmento de Ecologia-IBRAGPHLC Sala 220Rua São Francisco Xavier 524Reo de Janeiro RJBrasilCEP: 20559-900e-mail: jcreed@openlin.com.br

South America, Coastal Ecology

Mark CrowellOffice of MitigationFederal Emergency Management AgencyWashington DC 20742USAe-mail: Mark.Crowell@dhs.gov

Erosion: Historical Analysis and Forecasting

CONTRIBUTORS xvii

Simone Rabelo da CunhaUniversidade do Vale de ItajaiCentro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do MarRua Uruguai, 458, Itajai, SCBrasil, CEP: 88302-202Phone/Fax: 55 407 341 7715e-mail: simone@cttmar.univali.br

South America, Coastal Ecology

William R. DallySurfbreak Engineering Services, Inc1010 Atlantic St., Suite A-2Melbourne Beach FL 32951USAPhone: 1 407 733 2296Fax: 1 407 733 2298e-mail: wdally@surfbreakengineering.com

Surf Zone ProcessesSurfing

Robin Davidson-ArnottDepartment of GeographyUniversity of GuelphGuelph ON N1G 2W1CanadaPhone: 1 519 824 4120 ext 6719Fax: 1 519 837 9140e-mail: rdarnott@uoguelph.ca

Beach and Nearshore Instrumentation

Richard A. Davis Jr.Department of GeologyUniversity of South FloridaTampa FL 33620USAPhone: 1 813 974 2773Fax: 1 813 974 2654e-mail: rdavis@chuma.cas.usf.edu

Human Impact on Coasts

Alastair DawsonCentre for Quaternary ScienceWilliam Morros BuildingCoventry University, Priory St.Coventry CV1 5FBUKe-mail: gex014@coventry.ac.uk

Tsunamis

Robert G. DeanDepartment of Coastal and Ocean EngineeringUniversity of FloridaGainesville FL 32611-6590USAPhone: 1 352 392 2416Fax: 1 352 392 3466e-mail: dean@coastal.ufl.edu

Dynamic Equilibrium of Beaches

Omar DefeoUNDECIMAR, Facultad de CienciasIgua 4225PO Box 1077311400 MontevideoUruguay

South America, Coastal Ecology

Henry F. DiazNOAA/OAR/CDC325 Broadway, Boulder CO 80303USAFax: 1 303 497 7013e-mail: Henry.F.Diaz@noaa.gov

El Niño–Southern Oscillation

John R. DinglerUS Geological Survey MS-999345 Middlefield RoadMenlo Park CA 94025USA

Phone: 1 650 329 5069Fax: 1 650 329 5190e-mail: jdingler@octopus.wr.

jdingler@usgs.govBeach Processes

Yuri DolotovInstitute of Water ProblemsLaboratory of HydrodynamicsRussian Academy of SciencesLenin Prospect 14, Moscow 117901RussiaFax: 7 095 135 54 15

Black and Caspian Seas, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology

Arthur D. DonovanBritish PetroleumUTG, Room 810PO Box 4587Houston TX 77210USACell: 1 832 725 4028Phone: 1 281 366 5198Fax: 1 281 366 7416e-mail: donovaad@bp.com

Sequence Stratigraphy

J. Pat DoodyNational Coastal Consultants5 Green LaneBrampton, HuntingdonCambs. PE 28 4REUKPhone: 44 1480 392 706e-mail: pat.doody@ntlworld.com

Europe, Coastal EcologyHistory, Coastal Ecology

Monitoring Coastal Ecology

Bruce DouglasLaboratory for Coastal ResearchFlorida International UniversityMiami FL 33199USA

Erosion: Historical Analysis and Forecasting

Iver W. DuedallCollege of EngineeringFlorida Institute of Technology150, West University BoulevardMelbourne FL 32901-6900USAe-mail: duedall@winnie.fit.edu

Demography of Coastal Populations

Marshall D. EarleNeptune Sciences, Inc.12310 Pinecrest Rd.Suite 203, Reston VA 20191USAPhone: 1 703 620 5858Fax: 1 703 620 3900e-mail: mearle@neptunesci.com

Surf Modeling

Billy L. EdgeDepartment of Civil EngineeringTexas A&M UniversityCollege Station TX 77845USAPhone: 1 409 847 8712e-mail: b-edge@tamu.edu

Sand Rights

Karen EdyvaneSchool of Geography & Environmental StudiesUniversity of TasmaniaPrivate Bag 78, Hobart

xviii CONTRIBUTORS

Tasmania 7001AustraliaPhone: 61 3 6226 2205Fax: 61 3 6226 2989e-mail: karen.Edyvane@utas.edu.au

Australia, Coastal Ecology

D. EismaNetherlands Institute for Sea ResearchPO Box 59Den Burg, TexelThe NetherlandsPhone: 31 72 58 947 36Fax: 31 72 58 947 36

Asia, Eastern, Coastal Geomorphology

Lesley C. EwingCSPBA, c/o California Coastal Commission45 Fremont St., Suite 2000San Francisco CA 94105USAPhone: 1 415 904 5291Fax: 1 415 904 5400e-mail: lewing@coastal.ca.gov

Sand Rights

Rhodes W. FairbridgeCenter for Climate Systems ResearchGoddard Institute for Space Studies/NASAColumbia University2880 BroadwayNew York NY 10025USAPhone: w 1 212 663 8793Fax: w 1 212 678 5552Phone: s 1 516 267 8329Fax: s 1 516 267 8329e-mail: elicardo@giss.nasa.gov

Asteroid-Impact CoastsThalassostatic Terraces

Weathering in the Coastal Zone

Daidu FanMarine Geology LaboratoryTongji University, Shanghai 200092People’s Republic of ChinaPhone: 86 21 65982208Fax: 86 21 65025320e-mail: cxlik@online.sh.cn

Tidal Flats, Open Ocean Coasts

Michael S. FensterEnvironmental Studies ProgramRandolph-Macon CollegeAshland VA 23005USAPhone: 1 804 752 3745Fax: 1 804 752 4724e-mail: mfenster@rmc.edu

Offshore Sand SheetsSetbacks

Beatrice Padovani FerreiraUniversidade Federal de PernambucoDepartmento de OceanografiaAv. Arquitetura S/NRecife PEBrazil CEP: 50740-550e-mail: beatrice@ibama.gov.br

South America, Coastal Ecology

Charles W. FinklCPE Coastal Geology and Geomatics2481 N.W. Boca Raton Blvd.Boca Rton, FL 33431USAPhone: 561 391 8102

Fax: 561 391 9116e-mail: cfinkl@coastalplanning.net

Beach NourishmentCoastal Soils

Jet ProbesJournals

Nearshore Geomorphological MappingOrganizations

Vibracore

Duncan M. FitzGeraldDepartment of Earth SciencesBoston UniversityBoston MA 02215USAPhone: 1 617 353 2530Fax: 1 617 353 3290e-mail: dunc@bu.edu

Ground-Penetrating RadarTidal Inlets

B.W. FlemmingSenckenberg InstituteSchleusen street 39AD-26382 WilhelmshavenGermanyPhone: 49 4421 9475 36Fax: 49 4421 9475 50e-mail: bw.flemming@sam.terramare.de

Tidal Environments

Donald L. ForbesGeological Survey of CanadaAtlantic Geoscience CentreBedford Institute of OceanographyPO Box 1006, DartmouthNova Scotia B2Y 4A2CanadaPhone: 902 426 7737Fax: 902 425 4104e-mail: dforbes@nrcan.gc.ca

Paraglacial Coasts

William T. FoxDepartment of GeologyCenter for Environmental StudiesWilliams CollegeWilliamstown MA 01267USAPhone: 1 413 597 3927Fax: 1 413 597 3489e-mail: william.t.fox@williams.edu

BioconstructionBioerosion

Reefs, Non-Coral

Peter W. FrenchDepartment of GeographyRoyal HollowayUniversity of LondonEgham, Surrey, TW20 0EXUKPhone: 44 1784 44 35 71Fax: 44 1784 47 28 36e-mail: p.french@rhbnc.ac.uk

Coastal Zone Management

Patrick L. FriendSchool of Ocean and Earth SciencesSouthampton Oceanography CentreEmpress Dock, SouthamptonHampshire SO14 3ZHUK

Ripple Marks

Francis A. GalganoDepartment of Geography and

Environmental EngineeringUnited States Military Academy

CONTRIBUTORS xix

West Point NY 10996USAPhone: 1 914 938 4035Fax: 1 914 938 3339e-mail: bf6360@usma.edu

Modes and Patterns of Shoreline Change

Cynthia J. GefvertSouth Florida Water Management District3301 Gun Club RoadWest Palm Beach FL 33406USAPhone: 1 561 682 6923Fax: 1 561 682 5923e-mail: cgefvert@sfwmd.gov

Submarine Groundwater Discharge

Roland GehrelsQuaternary Environments Research GroupDepartment of Geographical SciencesUniversity of Plymouth, Plymouth PL4 8AAUKPhone: 44 1752 233079Fax: 44 1752 233054e-mail: wrgehrels@plymouth.ac.uk

Sea-Level Changes During theLast Millennium

Guy GelfenbaumUS Geological SurveyCoastal and Marine Geology Program, MS 999345 Middlefield RoadMenlo Park CA 94025USAPhone: 1 650 329-5483Fax: 1 650 329 5190e-mail: ggelfenbaum@usgs.gov

Coastal Currents

Laurel T. GormanInformation Technology LaboratoryUS Army Waterways Experiment Station3909 Halls Ferry Rd.Vicksburg MS 39180USAPhone: 601 634 4484e-mail: Laurel.Gorman@erdc.usace.army.mil

Monitoring Coastal Geomorphology

Vivian GornitzCenter for Climate Systems ResearchColumbia UniversityNew York NY 10025USAe-mail: vgornitz@giss.nasa.gov

EustasyNatural Hazards

Storm Surge

Peter H.F. Graber138 Altura WayGreenbrae CA 94904USAPhone: 1 415 461 9032Fax: 1 415 461 8338e-mail: suzanneeg@prodigy.net

Coastal Boundaries

David GreenlandDepartment of GeographyLouisiana State UniversityBaton Rouge LA 70803USAe-mail: greenlan@lsu.edu

Coastal Climate

Brian GreenwoodDivision of Physical Sciences

Scarborough CampusUniversity of Toronto1265 Military TrailScarborough ON M1C 1A4

CanadaPhone: 1 416 287 7326Fax: 1 416 287 7204e-mail: greenw@scar.utoronto.ca

Bars

Murray R. GregoryDepartment of GeologyUniversity of AucklandPrivate Bag 92019AucklandNew Zealande-mail: m.gregory@auckland.ac.nz

Marine Debris—Onshore, Offshore, Seafloor Litter

Eric R. GundlachE-Tech International Inc.PO Box 2976Acton MA 01720-6976USAPhone: 1 978 264 9682Fax: 1 978 264 1926e-mail: egundlach@compuserve.com

Oil Spills

Peter L. GuthDepartment of OceanographyUS Naval Academy572 Holloway RoadAnnapolis, MD 21402-5026USAPhone: 1 410 293 6560Fax: 1 410 293 2137e-mail: pguth@usna.edu

Coastal Warfare

Nina P. HadleyTidal Delta Consulting5632 1/2 20th Avenue NESeattle WA 98105USAPhone: 1 206 527 0885e-mail: ninah@u.washington.edu

Tourism and Coastal Development

Kevin R. HallDepartment of Civil EngineeringCentre for Water and the EnvironmentQueens UniversityKingston ON K7L 3N6CanadaPhone: 613 533 2127Fax: 613 533 2128e-mail: hallk@civil.queeensu.ca

Bioengineered Shore Protection

Jean-François HamelSociety for the Exploration and Valuing of

the Environment (SEVE)655 rue de la RivièreKatevale, Quebec J0B 1WOCanadaPhone: 819 843 3466Fax: 819 843 3466e-mail: seve@sympatico.ca

Atlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal EcologyArctic, Coastal Ecology

Guoqi HanNorthwest Atlantic Fisheries CentreFisheries and Oceans CanadaPO Box 5667St. John’s, NF A1C 5X1Canada

xx CONTRIBUTORS

Phone: 709 772 4326Fax: 709 772 4105e-mail: hang@dfo-mpo.gc.ca

Altimeter Surveys, Coastal Tides and Shelf Circulation

Edward B. Hands2 Bugle Ridge RoadVicksburg MS 39180-4314USAe-mail: e_hands@msn.com

Tidal Datums

Jim D. HansomDepartment of Geography and Topographic ScienceUniversity of GlasgowGlasgow G12 8QQScotlandUKPhone: 44 0141 330 5406Fax: 44 0141 330 4894e-mail: jhansom@geog.gla.ac.uk

Atlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal GeomorphologyBoulder Pavement

Cheryl J. HapkeUSGS, Pacific Science Center1156, High St.Santa Cruz CA 95064USA

Photogrammetry

Miles O. HayesResearch Planning, Inc.PO Box 3281121 Park StreetColumbia SC 29202USAPhone: 1 803 256 7322Fax: 1 803 254 6445e-mail: miles@researchplanning.com

Barrier IslandsTide-Dominated Coasts

Wave-Dominated Coasts

Terry R. HealyEarth Sciences DepartmentUniversity of WaikatoHamiltonNew ZealandPhone: 64 7 8384061Fax: 64 7 8560115e-mail: trh@waikato.ac.nz

Coastal Wind EffectsDune Ridges

EstuariesLittoral Drift Gradient

Muddy CoastsNew Zealand, Coastal Geomorphology

Salt MarshTidal CreeksUplift Coasts

Volcanic CoastsWave Focusing

Patrick A. HespDepartment of Geography and AnthroplogyLouisiana State UniversityBaton Rouge, LA 70803–4105USAPhone: 1 225 578–6244Fax: 1 225 578–4420e-mail: pahesp@lsu.edu

Eolian Processes

Frank M.J. HoozemansWL/Delft Hydraulics2600 MH Delft

The NetherlandsPhone: 31 15 285 85 05Fax: 31 15 285 87 18e-mail: frank.hoozemans@wldelft.nl

Global Vulnerability Analysis

David HopleyCoastal and Marine Consultancies Pty Ltd3 Wingadee CourtAnnandaleTownsville QLD 4814AustraliaPhone: 61 7 4725 2832Fax: 61 7 4779 1400e-mail: dhopley@austarnet.com.au

AtollsCays

Coral ReefsCoral Reefs, Emerged

Trottoirs

Diane P. HornSchool of GeographyBirbeck CollegeUniversity of LondonMalet StreetLondon WC1E 7HXEnglandUKPhone: 171 631 6480Fax: 171 631 6498e-mail: d.horn@bbk.ac.uk

Hydrology of Coastal Zone

James R. HoustonCoastal Engineering Research CenterUSAE Waterways Experiment Station3909 Halls Ferry Rd.Vicksburg MS 39180USAPhone: 1 601 634 2000Fax: 1 601 634 2818e-mail: houstojl@expl.wes.army.mil

Geohydraulic Research Centers

John R.C. HsuDepartment of Marine Environment and EngineeringNational Sun Yat-Sen University70 Lien-Hai RoadKaohsiung City 80424TaiwanPhone: 886 7 525 2000 ext 5076Fax: 16 886 7 525 5060e-mail: jrchsu@mail.nsysu.edu.tw

Engineering Applications of Coastal Geomorphology

Terry M. HumeWater Quality CentreDSIR-Marine and FreshwaterDepartment of Scientific and Industrial ResearchPO Box 11-155HamiltonNew ZealandPhone: 64 7 8561729Fax: 64 7 8560151e-mail: t.hume@niwa.cri.nz

Tidal Prism

Hillert IbbekenInstutut fur. Geologie, Geophysik und GeoinformatikFree University of BerlinMalteser street 74-100, D-12249BerlinGermany

Pluvial Lake Shore Deposits

Baban IngoleBiology Division

CONTRIBUTORS xxi

National Institute of OceanographyDona Paula, Goa 403004Indiae-mail: baban@csnio.ren.nic.in

Indian Ocean Coasts, Coastal Ecology

Douglas L. InmanDepartment of Center for Coastal StudiesScripps Institution of OceanographyUniversity of California, San DiegoLa Jolla CA 92093 0209USAPhone: 1 858 534 4334Fax: 1 858 534 0300e-mail: dinman@ucsd.edu

Accretion and Erosion Waves on BeachesClimate Patterns in the Coastal Zone

Energy and Sediment Budgets of the Global Coastal ZoneLittoral Cells

Modeling Platforms, Terraces, and Coastal EvolutionScour and Burial of Objects in Shallow Water

Nancy L. JacksonEnvironment Policy StudiesNew Jersy Institute of TechnologyUniversity HeightsNewark NJ 071012USAPhone: 1 973 596 8467Fax: 1973 642 4689e-mail: jacksonn@njit.edu

Developed Coasts

Saskia JelgersmaElzenlaan 6Bergen aan Zee 1865 BMThe NetherlandsPhone: 31 72 5894370Fax: 31 72 5894370

Sedimentary Basins

Scott A. JenkinsCenter for Coastal StudiesScripps Institution of OceanographyUniversity of California, San DiegoLa Jolla CA 92093-0209USAPhone: 858 534 6480Fax: 858 534 0300e-mail: sjenkins@ucsd.edu

Accretion and Erosion Waves on BeachesClimate Patterns in the Coastal Zone

Energy and Sediment Budgets of the Global Coastal ZoneModeling Platforms, Terraces, and Coastal Evolution

Scour and Burial of Objects in Shallow Water

Lucille Lewis JohnsonDepartment of AnthropologyMail Drop 375Vassar CollegePoughkeepsie NY 12601USAPhone: 1 914 (845) 437 5507Fax: 1 914 (845) 437 7287e-mail: johnsonl@vassar.edu

Archaeology

Pavel A. KaplinDepartment of GeographyMoscow State UniversityMoscow 119899RussiaPhone: 095 9392152Fax: 095 9392123

Black and Caspian Seas, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology

Michael S. KearneyDepartment of Geography

University of MarylandCollege Park MD 20742USAPhone: 1 301 405 4057Fax: 1 301 314 9299e-mail: mk11@umail.umd.edu

North America, Coastal Ecology

Dieter H. KelletatUniversität-GH EssenFB9-PhysiogeographieUniversitaetsstrasse 15Essen 1 D-45117GermanyPhone: 49 201 183 3162Fax: 49 201 183 2811e-mail: dieter.kelletat@uni-essen.de

Dalmatian CoastsEurope, Coastal Geomorphology

Geographical Coastal ZonalityHolocene Coastal Geomorphology

NotchesPleistocene Epoch

Sharm Coasts

Michael J. KennishInstitute of Marine and Coastal SciencesRutgers UniversityNew Brunswick NJ 08901-8521USAPhone: 1 732 932 8959 ext 240Fax: 1 732 932 6557e-mail: kennish@imcs.rutgers.edu

Environmental QualityEstuaries, Anthropogenic Impacts

Syed KhalilCoastal Restoration DivisionOffice of Coastal Restoration and ManagementLouisiana Department of Natural Resources617 North 3rd St., PO Box 44027Baton Rouge, LA 70804-4027USAPhone: 1 225 342 7308e-mail: syedk@dnr.state.la.us

Vibracore

Robert KirkDepartment of GeographyUniversity of CanterburyPrivate Bag 4800ChristchurchNew ZealandPhone: 64 3 3642 893Fax: 64 3 3642 2586e-mail: b.kirk@regy.canterbury.ac.nz

Shore Platforms

Victor KlemasCollege of Marine StudiesUniversity of DelawareNewark DE 19716USAPhone: 1 302 831 8256Fax: 1 302 831 6838e-mail: klemas@udel.edu

Remote Sensing: Wetlands Classification

Tormod KlemsdalDepartment of GeographyUniversity of OsloPO Box 1042 BlindernN-0316 Oslo NorwayPhone: 47 22 856931Fax: 47 22 857230e-mail: tormod.klemsdal@geografi.uio.no

Strandflat

xxii CONTRIBUTORS

Paul D. KomarCollege of Oceanic and Atmospheric SciencesOregon State UniversityCorvallis OR 97331 5503USAPhone: 1 541 737 5210Fax: 1 541 737 2064e-mail: pkomar@oce.orst.edu

Placer DepositsRhythmic Patterns

John C. KraftDepartment of GeologyUniversity of DelawareNewark DE 19716USAPhone: 1 610 287 9385

1 302 831 8706Fax: 1 302 831 4158e-mail: 00218@udel.edu

Paleocoastlines

Nicholas C. KrausU.S. Army, Coastal Hydraulics LaboratoryVicksburg MS 39180USAPhone: 1 601 634 2016Fax: 1 601 634 3080e-mail: Nicholas.C.Kraus@erdc.usace.army.mil

Beach ProfileNavigation Structures

Profiling, BeachShore Protection Structures

Steven L. KrupaSouth Florida Water Discharge Management District33012 Gun Club RoadWest Palm Beach FL 33406USAPhone: 1 561 682 6923Fax: 1 561 682 6442e-mail: skrupa@sfwmd.gov

krupa3@bellsouth.netSubmarine Groundwater

Discharge

Mark A. KulpDepartment of Geology and GeophysicsUniversity of New OrleansNew Orleans LA 70148USAPhone: 1 504 280 3119Fax: 1 504 280 7396e-mail: mkulp@uno.edu

Deltas

Pravin D. KunteNational Institute of OceanographyDona Paula, Goa 403004IndiaPhone: 91 (0)832 221322, 226253 ext 4387Fax: 91 (0)832 223340, 229102e-mail: kunte@csnio.ren.nic.in

pdkunte@hotmail.comDatabases

Jacques LaborelUMR DIMAR, Université de la MéditerranéeCase 901, Faculté des Sciences de LuminyF13288 Marseille, Cedex 9FrancePhone: 33 91 283 6032e-mail: rutabaga1@wanadoo.fr

Algal RimsBioherms and Biostromes

Sea-Level Indicators, Biologic

Françoise Laborel-DeguenUMR DIMAR, Université de la Méditerranée

Case 901, Faculté des Sciences de LuminyF13288 Marseille, Cedex 9France

Sea-Level Indicators, Biologic

V. Chris LakhanDepartment of Earth SciencesSchool of Physical SciencesUniversity of WindsorWindsor, OntarioCanada N9B 3P4Phone: 1 519 253 4232 ext 2183Fax: 1 519 253 6214/973 7081e-mail: lakan@uwindsor.ca

Coastal Modeling and SimulationTime Series Modeling

Kurt LambeckResearch School of Earth SciencesAustralian National UniversityCanberra ACT 0200Australiae-mail: kurt.lambeck@anu.edu.au

Isostasy

Magnus LarsonDepartment of Water Resources EngineeringUniversity of LundBox 118S-221 00 LundSwedenPhone: 46 46 222 8729Fax: 46 46 222 4435e-mail: Magnus.Larson@tvrl.lth.se

Numerical Modeling

Stephen P. LeathermanLaboratory for Coastal Research & International

Hurricane CenterFlorida International University10555 West Flagler St.Miami FL 33199USAPhone: 1 305 348 6304Fax: 1 305 348 1605e-mail: leatherman@fiu.edu

Airborne Laser Terrain Mapping and Light Detection and Ranging

Erosion: Historical Analysis and ForecastingModes and Patterns of Shoreline Change

Rating Beaches

Congxian LiMarine Geology LaboratoryTongji UniversityShanghai 200092People’s Republic of ChinaPhone: 86 21 65982208Fax: 86 21 65025320e-mail: cxlik@online.sh.cn

Tidal Flats, Open Ocean Coasts

Jeffrey H. ListUS Geological Survey384 Woods Hole RoadWoods Hole MA 02543USAPhone: 1 508 457 2343Fax: 1 508 457 2310e-mail: jlist@usgs.gov

Sediment Budget

Donald MacintoshDepartment of Ecology and GeneticsUniversity of AarhusAarhus C DK-8000Denmarke-mail: don.macintosh@biology.au.dk

Asia, Eastern, Coastal Ecology

CONTRIBUTORS xxiii

M. MacLeodDepartment of Natural Resource EconomicsScottish Agricultural CollegeEdinburgh EH9 3JGScotlandUKPhone: 0131 535 4387Fax: 0131 667 2601e-mail: m.j.macleod@ed.sac.ac.uk

Carrying Capacity in Coastal Areas

Molly McGrawDepartment of Geography and AnthropologyLouisiana State UniversityBaton Rouge LA 70803USAPhone: 225 578 6130Fax: 225 578 4420e-mail: walker@lsu.edu

History, Coastal Geomorphology

Orville T. MagoonCoastal Zone FoundationPO Box 279Middletown CA 95461USAPhone: 1 707 987 2358 ext 207Fax: 1 707 987 9351e-mail: omagoon@guenoc.com

Sand Rights

Mauro MaidaUniversidade Federal de PernambucoDepartmento de OceanografiaAv. Arquitetura S/NRecife PEBrasilCEP: 50740-550

South America, Coastal Ecology

Gerhard MasselinkDepartment of GeographyLoughborough UniversityLoughborough LE11 3TUUKPhone: 15 9 222746Fax: 15 9 223930e-mail: g.masselink@lboro.ac.uk

Wave Refraction DiagramsWaves

Patricia M. MastersUniversity of California, San DiegoScripps Institution of OceanographyLa Jolla CA 92093-0309USAPhone: 1 858 534 4334Fax: 1 858 534 0300e-mail: pmasters@ucsd.edu

Modeling Platforms, Terraces, and Coastal Evolution

George A. MaulCollege of EngineeringFlorida Institute of Technology150, West University BoulevardMelbourne FL 32901-6988USAPhone: 1 407 674 7453Fax: 1 407 674 7212e-mail: gmaul@fit.edu

Coastal Temperature TrendsDemography of Coastal Population

Pressure Gradient ForceSmall Islands

VorticityWave Climate

Vincent MayDepartment of Conservation Sciences

Bournemouth UniversityTalbot CampusFern BarrowPoole Dorset BH12 5BBUKPhone: 44 1202 595178Fax: 44 1202 595255e-mail: vmay@bournemouth.ac.uk

Chalk CoastsConservation of Coastal Sites

Marine Parks

Randolph A. McBrideDepartment of Geography and Earth ScienceGeorge Mason UniversityFairfax VA 22030USAPhone: 1 703 993 1642Fax: 1 703 993 1216e-mail: rmcbride@gmu.edu

mcbrdra@aol.comOffshore Sand Banks and Linear Sand Ridges

John McKennaCoastal Studies Research GroupSchool of Environmental StudiesUniversity of UlsterColeraine BT52 1SANorthern IrelandUKPhone: 44 28 70 324055Fax: 44 28 70 324911e-mail: j.mckenna@ulst.ac.uk

Boulder Beaches

Anton McLachlanCollege of ScienceSultan Qaboos UniversityPO Box 36, SQU 123OmanPhone: 968 515400Fax: 968 513415e-mail: antonmcl@squ.edu.om

Africa, Coastal Ecology

Andrew McMinnInstitute of Antarctic and Southern Ocean StudiesUniversity of TasmaniaGPO Box 252-77, Hobart 7001TasmaniaAustraliaPhone: 61 3 6226 2980Fax: 61 3 6226 2973e-mail: andrew.mcminn@utas.edu.au

Antarctica, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology

Franco S. MedioliCentre for Marine GeologyDalhousie UniversityHalifaxNova Scotia B3H3J5Canadae-mail: medioli@is.dal.ca

Sea-Level Indicators—Biological in Depositional Sequences

Annie MercierSociety for the Exploration and Valuing of the

Environment (SEVE)655 rue de la RivièreKatevale, Quebec J0B 1WOCanadaPhone: 819 843 3466Fax: 819 843 3466e-mail: seve@sympatico.ca

Arctic, Coastal EcologyAtlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology

xxiv CONTRIBUTORS

Mark D. MerlinBiology ProgramDean Hall, rm. 2University of Hawaii at MãnoaHonolulu, Hawaii 96822USAe-mail: merlin@hawaii.edu

Pacific Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology

Marc L. MillerSchool of Marine AffairsUniversity of WashingtonSeattle WA 98195USAe-mail: mlmiller@u.washington.edu

Tourism and Coastal Development

Chizuko MizobeSandy Hook Cooperative Research Institute74 Magruder RoadInstitute of Marine Coastal SciencesRutgers UniversityHighlands NJ 07732USA

South America,Coastal Geomorphology

Ram K. MohanBlasland, Bouck & Lee, Inc.100 Four Falls Corp Center, Suite 106W. Conshohocken PA 19428–2950USAPhone: 848 530 9119Fax: 848 530 9118e-mail: rkm@bbl-inc.com

Capping of Contaminated Coastal AreasGeotextile Applications

Luis J. Moreno(Despacho C-276)Subdirección General de Actuaciones en la CostaDirección General de CostasSecretaría de Estado de Aguas y CostasMinisterio de Medio AmbientePlaza de San Juan de la Cruz, s/n28071 MadridSpainPhone: 34 91 597 6870Fax: 34 91 597 5924e-mail: luis.moreno@m.dgc.mma.es

Headland-Bay Beach

Andrew MorangCERC, US Army Waterways Experiment Station3909 Halls Ferry RoadVicksburg MS 39180USAPhone: 1 601 634 2064Fax: 1 601 634 3080e-mail: moranga@wes.army.mil

Depth of Closure on Sandy CoastsMonitoring Coastal Geomorphology

Nils-Axel MörnerPaleogeophysics and GeodynamicsStockholm UniversityS-10691 StockholmSwedenPhone: 46 8 770 6771Fax: 46 8 790 6777e-mail: morner@pog.su.se

Changing Sea LevelsLate Quaternary Marine Transgression

Robert A. MortonUS Geological SurveyCenter for Coastal Geology600 Fourth St. SouthSt. Petersburg FL 33701-4846USA

Phone: 1 727 803 8747 ext 3080Fax: 1 727 803 2032e-mail: rmorton@usgs.gov

Mapping Shores and Coastal TerrainMining of Coastal Materials

Robert A. MullerCoastal Studies InstituteLouisiana State UniversityBaton Rouge LA 70803USA

Meteorological Effects on Coasts

Gisèle Muller-ParkerDepartment of BiologyWestern Washington UniversityBellingham WA 98225USAPhone: 1 360 650 4885Fax: 1 360 650 7284e-mail: gisele@biol.wwu.edu

Coral Reef Islands

George MustoeDepartment of Geology, MS 9080Western Washington UniversityBellingham WA 98225USAPhone: 1 360 650 3585Fax: 1 360 650 7302e-mail: mustoeg@cc.wwu.edu

Honeycomb WeatheringTafone

C.G.R. NairScience, Technology and Environment DepartmentUniversity of KeralaTrivandrum -14, KeralaIndiaPhone: 11 91 471 323545e-mail: cgrnair@vsnl.com

Geotextile Applications

G.N. NayakDepartment of Marine SciencesGoa UniversityGoa, 403 203IndiaPhone: 91 832 221375 ext 262Fax: 91 832 224184e-mail: gnnayak@unigoa.ernet.in

Indian Ocean Coasts, Coastal Geomorphology

Daniel Din NdongoDepartement de Biologie Vegetale - BP 24157Universite de DoualaDouala, Cameroun

Mangroves, Remote Sensing

William J. NealDepartment of GeologyGrand Valley State UniversityAllendale MI 49401USA

Managed Retreat

Robert J. NichollsCoastal GeomorphologyMidlesex UniversityQueensway Enfield EN3 4SFUKPhone: 44 181 362 5569Fax: 44 181 362 6957e-mail: r.nicholls@mdx.ac.uk

Global Vulnerability Analysis

Alan W. NiedorodaURS Corporation3676 Hartsfield RoadTallahassee FL 32303USA

CONTRIBUTORS xxv

Phone: 1 850 574 3197Fax: 1 850 576 3676e-mail: alan_niedoroda@urscorp.com

Continental ShelvesShelf Processes

Yaacov Nir15 Shimeoni St.Rehovot 76248, IsraelPhone: 972 8 0468862Fax: 972 8 0468862e-mail: yankalenir@hotmail.com

jacobni@netvision.net.ilCoastal Wells

Karl F. NordstromInstitute of Marine and Coastal SciencesRutgers University71 Dudley RoadNew Brunswick NJ 08901-8521USAPhone: 1 732 932 6555 ext 502e-mail: nordstro@imcs.rutgers.edu

Bay BeachesDeveloped Coasts

Patrick D. NunnDepartment of GeographyUniversity of the South PacificPO Box 1168SuvaFijiPhone: 679 212542Fax: 679 301487e-mail: nunn_p@usp.ac.f j

Pacific Ocean Islands, Coastal Geomorphology

George F. OertelDepartment of OceanographyOld Dominion UniversityNorfolk VA 23529USAPhone: 1 757 683 4935Fax: 1 757 683 5303e-mail: goertel@odu.edu

Coastal Lakes and LagoonsCoasts, Coastlines, Shores and Shorelines

Julian D. OrfordSchool of GeographyQueen’s UniversityBelfast BT7 1NNUKPhone: 44 2890 335142Fax: 44 2890 321280e-mail: j.orford@qub.ac.uk

Gravel Barriers

Antony R. OrmeDepartment of GeographyUniversity Of CaliforniaLos Angeles CA 90095-1524USAPhone: 1 310 825 1516e-mail: orme@geog.ucla.edu

Africa, Coastal Geomorphology

Philip D. OsbornePacific International EngineeringPO 1599Edmonds WA 98020USAPhone: 1 425 921 1720Fax: 1 425 744 1400e-mail: philo@piengr.com

Cross-Shore Variation of Grain Size on Beaches

W.R. OsterkampUS Geological Survey1675 W. Anklam Rd.Tuscon AZ 85745USAPhone: 1 520 670 6821 ext 113Fax: 1 520 670 6806e-mail: wroster@usgs.gov

Mining of Coastal Materials

Ervin G. OtvosInstitute of Marine Sciences703 East Beach Blvd.PO Box 7000Ocean Springs MS 39566-7000USAPhone: 1 228 872 4235Fax: 1 228 872 4204e-mail: ervin.otvos@usm.edu

Beach RidgesCheniers

Bruce ParkerCoast Survey Development LaboratoryNational Ocean Service, NOAA1315 East-West Highway, Rm 7806Silver Spring MD 20910USAPhone: 1 301 713 2801Fax: 1 301 713 4501e-mail: Bruce.Parker@noaa.gov

Tides

Roland P. Paskoff10, Square Saint-FlorentinLe Chesnay F78150FrancePhone: 33 1 39556002Fax: 33 1 39559291e-mail: paskoff@club-internet.fr

Faulted CoastsKarst Coasts

Shea PenlandDepartment of Geology and GeophysicsUniversity of New OrleansNew Orleans LA 70148USAPhone: 1 504 280 3119Fax: 1 504 280 7396e-mail: spenland@uno.edu

Deltas

Conrad A. PilditchDepartment of Biological SciencesUniversity of WaikatoPB 3105HamiltonNew ZealandPhone: 64 7 838 4466 ext 6132Fax: 64 7 838 4324e-mail: c.pilditch@waikato.ac.nz

New Zealand, Coastal Ecology

Orrin H. PilkeyDivision of Earth and Ocean SciencesDuke UniversityDurham NC 27708-0227USAPhone: 1 919 684 4238Fax: 1 919 684 5833e-mail: opilkey@geo.duke.edu

ForewordManaged Retreat

Paolo A. Pirazzoli16 rue de la Grange Bateliere

xxvi CONTRIBUTORS

Paris 75009FrancePhone: 33 1 4507 5558Fax: 33 1 4507 5830e-mail: pirazzol@cnrs-bellevue.fr

Marine TerracesSea-Level Indicators, Geomorphic

Seismic DisplacementSubmerging Coasts

Tectonics and NeotectonicsTide Gauges

Katherine PondRobens Centre for Public and Environmental HealthUniversity of SurreyGuilford, SurreyUKPhone: 44 1483 879935Fax: 44 1483 879971e-mail: k.pond@surrey.ac.uk

Water Quality

Abel PrieurFRE 2158-CNRSCentre de Paleontologie

stratagraphique et Pleoecologie27-43 boulevard du 11 novembre 1918F-69622 Villeurbanne CedexFrancePhone: 33 04 72 444 84 88e-mail: abel.prieur@univ_lyon1.fr

Asia, Middle East, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology

Norbert P. PsutySandy Hook Cooperative Research ProgramsInstitute of Marine and Coastal SciencesRutgers UniversityHighlands NJ 07732USAPhone: 1 732 708 1462e-mail: psuty@imcs.rutgers.edu

South America, Coastal Geomorphology

Michael R. RampinoEarth and Environmental Science ProgramNew York University100 Washington Square EastNew York NY 10003USAPhone: 1 212 998 3743Fax: 1 212 995 3820e-mail: mrr1@nyu.edu

michael.rampino@nyu.eduErosion Processes

Elijah W. Ramsey IIIUS Geological SurveyNational Wetlands Research Center700 Cajundome Blvd.Lafayette LA 70506USAPhone: 1 318 266 8575Fax: 1 318 266 8616e-mail: elijah_ramsey@usgs.gov

sijan_sapkota@usgs.govRemote Sensing of Coastal Environments

R. Keith RaneyApplied Physics LaboratoryJohns Hopkins UniversityLaurel MDUSAPhone: 1 240 228 5384Fax: 1 240 228 5548e-mail: keith.raney@jhuapl.edu

Synthetic Aperture Radar Systems

Anto RaukasInstitute of GeologyEstonian Academy of Sciences7 Estonia BoulevardTallinn EE 10143EstoniaPhone: 372 6454659Fax: 372 6312074e-mail: raukas@gi.ee

Klint

Denise J. ReedDepartment of Geology and GeophysicsUniversity of New OrleansNew Orleans LA 70148USAPhone: 1 504 280 7395Fax: 1 504 280 7396e-mail: djreed@uno.edu

Vegetated CoastsWetlands

William RitchieAberdeen Institute of Coastal Science & Management

King’s CollegeAberdeen AB42 3UEScotland,UKPhone: 44 1224 274474/272522Fax: 44 1224 272497e-mail: w.ritchie@abdn.ac.uk

MachairOil Spills, High Energy Coasts

Washover Effects

Neil RobertsSchool of GeographyUniversity of PlymouthDrake Circus, PlymouthDevon PL4 BAAPhone: 44 1752 233 051Fax: 44 1752 233 054e-mail: cnroberts@plymouth.ac.uk

Holocene Epoch

Rosana Moreira da RochaUniversidade Federal do ParanaDepartmento do ZoologiaCP 19020 Curitiba PR BrasilCEP: 81.531-990e-mail: rmrocha@bio.ufpr.br

South America, Coastal Ecology

Peter J. RosenDepartment of Earth and Environmental

Sciences14 Holmes HallNortheastern UniversityBoston MA 02115USAPhone: 1 617 373 4380Fax: 1 617 373 4378e-mail: prosen@lynx.neu.edu

Boulder Barricades

John M. RybczykHuxley College of the EnvironmentWestern Washington UniversityBellingham WA 98225USAPhone: 1 360 650 2081Fax: 1 360 650 2842e-mail: john.rybczyk@wwu.edu

Coastal SubsidenceDeltaic Ecology

CONTRIBUTORS xxvii

Yoshiki SaitoMRE, Geological Survey of Japan, AISTCentral 7, Higashi 1-1-1Tsukuba 305 8567JapanPhone: 81 298 61 3895Fax: 81 298 61 3747e-mail: yoshiki.saito@aist.go.jp

Beach Stratigraphy

Paul SanlavilleUMR 5647, CNRS-Université de Lyon 2Maison de l’Orient Méditerranéen7 rue RaulinLyon 69007Francee-mail: paul.sanlaville@lyon.mom.fr

Asia, Middle East, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology

Anja ScheffersInstutut fur GeographieUniversitat EssenUniverstatssr. 15D-45117 EssenGermanyPhone: 0049 201 1833358Fax: 0049 201 1832811e-mail: anja.scheffers@uni-essen.de

Europe, Coastal Geomorphology

Gerhard SchellmannDepartment of Physical Geography and

Landscape StudiesUniversity of BambergAm Kranen 1, PO Box 15 49D-96045 BambergGermanyPhone: �49 0951 863 2380Fax:�49 0951 863 1193e-mail: gerhard.schellmann@ggeo.uni-bamberg.de

Geochronology

Maurice SchwartzDepartment of GeologyWestern Washington UniversityBellingham WA 98225USAPhone: 1 360 650 3586Fax: 1 360 650 7302e-mail: coastal@cc.wwu.edu

Tors

David B. ScottDepartment of Earth SciencesDalhousie UniversityHalifax NS B3H 3J5CanadaPhone: 902 494 3604Fax: 902 494 3877e-mail: dbscott@is.dal.ca

Coastal Changes, Rapid Sea-Level Indicators—Biological in

Depositional Sequences

V. SemeniukV.C. Semeniuk Research Group21 Glenmere RoadWarwick WA 6024AustraliaPhone: 61 8 94473708Fax: 61 8 94473705e-mail: vcsrg@iinet.net.com

Tidal Flats

Richard J. SeymourScripps Institution of OceanographyUniversity of California at San Diego

La Jolla CA 92093-0220USAPhone: 1 858 534 2561Fax: 1 858 455 5575e-mail: rseymour@ucsd.edu

Cross-Shore Sediment TransportGross Transport

Longshore Sediment TransportNet Transport

Ian ShennanDepartment of GeographyUniversity of DurhamDurham DH1 3LEUKPhone: 44 191 374 2484Fax: 44 191 374 2456e-mail: ian.shennan@durham.ac.uk

Peat

Charles SheppardDepartment of Biological SciencesUniversity of WarwickCoventry CV4 7ALUKPhone: 44 1203 524975Fax: 44 1203 524619e-mail: sh@dna.bio.warwick.ac.uk

Coral Reef Coasts

Douglas J. ShermanDepartment of GeographyUniversity of Southern CaliforniaLos Angeles CA 90089-0663USAPhone: 1 213 740 1123Fax: 1 213 740 0056e-mail: sherman @usc.edu

Dissipative BeachesNorth America, Coastal Geomorphology

Reflective Beaches

Andrew D. ShortGeography, Coastal StudiesUniversity of SydneySydney NSW 2006AustraliaPhone: 61 2 9351 3625Fax: 61 2 9351 3644e-mail: a.short@csu.usyd.edu.au

Carbonate Sandy BeachesSandy Coasts

Wave Environments

Parmeshwar L. ShresthaExponent Inc.320 Goddard Way, Suite 200Irvine CA 92618USAe-mail: pshrestha@exponent.com

Cohesive Sediment Transport

David P. SimpsonPacific International Engineering310 Waterfront Park Building144 Railroad Ave.DistributionEdmonds WA 98020USAe-mail: dsimpson@piengr.com

Cross-Shore Variation of Grain Size on BeachesGravel Beaches

Rodman E. SneadDepartment of GeographyUniversity of New MexicoAlbuquerque NM 87131USAPhone: 1 505 247 3105

Desert Coasts

xxviii CONTRIBUTORS

Gordon C. StaplesRADARSAT-2 International13800 Commerce ParkwayRichmond BC V6V 2J3CanadaPhone: 1 604 231 4950Fax: 1 604 231 4940e-mail: gstaples@rsi.ca

RADARSAT-2

Wayne StephensonDepartment of Geography and Environmental StudiesUniversity of MelbourneMelbourneVictoria 3010Australia

Shore Platforms

J. Court StevensonHorn Point LaboratotyUniversity of Maryland Center for Environmental SciencePO Box 775Cambridge MD 21613USAPhone: 1 410 221 8442Fax: 1 410 221 8490e-mail: court@hpl.umces.edu

North America, Coastal Ecology

Michael P. StewartSchool of Spatial SciencesCurtin University of TechnologyPerth 6152 WAAustraliaPhone: 61 8 9266 7600Fax: 61 8 9266 2703e-mail: stewart@vesta.curtin.edu.au

Geodesy

Robert R. StickneyTexas Sea Grant College Program2700 Earl Rudder Freeway, Suite 1800College Station, TX 77845USAPhone: 1 979 845 3854Fax: 1 979 845 7525e-mail: rrstickney@aol.com

stickney@tamu.eduAquaculture

Marcel J.F. StiveNCK/Netherlands Centre for Coastal ResearchDelft University of TechnologyPO Box 5048Delft 2600 GAThe NetherlandsPhone: 31 15 2783345Fax: 31 15 2785124e-mail: marcel.stive@wldelft.nl

Artificial Islands

Gregory W. StoneCoastal Studies InstituteLouisiana State UniversityBaton Rouge LA 70803USAPhone: 1 225 388 6188Fax: 1 225 388 2520e-mail: gagreg@lsu.edu

Meteorological Effects on CoastsNearshore Wave Measurement

Katherine StoneMeyers, Widders, Gibson, and Long, LLP5425 Everglades St., Suite 100Ventura CA 93006USA

Phone: 1 805 644 7188Fax: 1 805 644 7390e-mail: kewstone@aol.com

Sand Rights

William StreeverBP Exploration (Alaska) Inc.PO Box 196612Anchorage, AL 99519-6612Phone: 1 907 564 4383Fax: 1 907 564 5020e-mail: streevbj@bp.com

Wetland Restoration

Melanie J. StrightUS Department of the InteriorMinerals Management Service381 Elden St. (MS 4042)Herndon VA 20170USAPhone: 1 703 787 1736Fax: 1 703 787 1026e-mail: melanie.stright@mms.gov

Archaeological Site Location, Effect of Sea-Level Change

William B. StrongeFlorida Atlantic University777 Glades Rd.PO Box 3091Boca Raton FL 33431USAPhone: 1 561 297 2833Fax: 1 561 297 2850e-mail: strongew@fau.edu

Economic Value of Beaches

Tsuguo SunamuraDepartment of Earth and Space SciencesOsaka UniversityOsaka 560-0043JapanPhone: 81 6 6850 5799Fax: 81 6 6850 5480e-mail: sunamura@ess.sci.osaka-u.ac.jp

Cliffs, Erosion RatesCliffs, Lithology versus Erosion Rates

Thomas A. TerichCenter for Geography, MS9085Huxley CollegeWestern Washington UniversityBellingham WA 98225USAPhone: 1 360 650 3286Fax: 1 360 650 7702e-mail: taterich@cc.wwu.edu

Driftwood

Joost H.J. TerwindtDepartment of Physical GeographyState University of UtrechtHeidelberglaan 2Postbus 80.1153508 TC UtrechtThe NetherlandsPhone: 31 33 4618039Fax: 31 33 4618039e-mail: jenmterw@euronet.nl

Polders

E. Robert ThielerUS Geological SurveyCoastal and Marine Geology Program384 Woods Hole RoadWoods Hole MA 02543USAPhone: 1 508 457 2350Fax: 1 508 457 2310e-mail: rthieler@usgs.gov

Photogrammetry

CONTRIBUTORS xxix

B.G. ThomFaculty of Built EnvironmentUniversity of New South WalesSydney, NSW, 2052AustraliaPhone: 61 2 9337 1465Fax: 61 2 9337 1465email: bthom@mail.usyd.edu.au

Coastal Changes, Gradual

James G. TitusMail Code 2174U.S. Environmental Protection AgencyWashington DC 20460USAPhone: office: 202 260 7821

home: 301 464 5423beach: 609 494 9742

e-mail: titus.jim@epa.govGreenhouse Effect and Global Warming

Sea-Level Rise, Effect

Monica M.P. Tognella-De-RosaUniversidade do Vale de ItajaiCentro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do MarRua Uruguai, 458, Itajai, SCBrasile-mail: tognella@cttmar.univali.br

South America, Coastal Ecology

Alan S. TrenhaileGeography DepartmentUniversity of WindsorWindsor, Ontario N9B 3P4CanadaPhone: 519 253 4232 ext 2184Fax: 519 973 7081e-mail: tren@uwindsor.ca

Beach Sediment CharacteristicsCliffed CoastsMass Wasting

Rock Coasts Processes

David T. TudorBath Spa University CollegeNewton ParkBath BA2 9BNUKe-mail: dttudor@msn.com

Marine Debris—Onshore, Offshore, Seafloor Litter

Robert J. TurnerDivision of Natural SciencesSouthampton College239 Montauk HighwaySouthampton, NY 11968-4198Phone: 1 516 287 8400Fax: 1 516 287 8419e-mail: rturner@southampton.liu.edu

Beachrock

Takaaki UdaPublic Works Research CenterTakara Bldg.,1–6–4, Taito, Taito-kuJapan 110–0016Phone: 81 3–3835–3609Fax: 81 3–3835–3609e-mail: uda@pwrc.or.jp

www@pwri.go.jpSpits

M. WafarBiological Oceanography DivisionNational Institute of OceanographyDona Paula, Goa 403 004India

Phone: 11 713 973 3148Fax: 11 713 973 3340e-mail: wafar@csnio.ren.nic.in

Indian Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology

Sayeeda WafarBiological Oceanography DivisionNational Institute of OceanographyDona Paula, Goa 403 004India

Indian Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology

H. Jesse WalkerDepartment of Geography and AnthropologyLouisiana State UniversityBaton Rouge LA 70803-4105USAPhone: 1 225 578 6130Fax: 1 225 578 4420e-mail: hwalker@lsu.edu

Arctic, Coastal GeomorphologyBeach Nourishment

History, Coastal GeomorphologyIce-Bordered Coasts

Martyn WallerSchool of GeographyKingston UniversityPenrhyn RoadKingston-upon-ThamesSurrey KT1 2EEUKPhone: 44 208 547 2000Fax: 44 208 547 7502e-mail: m.waller@kingston.ac.uk

Bogs

Ping WangDepartment of Geology, SCA 528University of South Florida4202 E. Fowler Ave.Tampa FL 33620USAPhone: 1 813 974 9170Fax: 1 813 974 2654e-mail: pwang@chuma1.cas.usf.edu

Nearshore Sediment Transport MeasurementNearshore Wave Measurement

Tidal Flats, Open Ocean Coasts

Shin WangDepartment of GeographyNational Taiwan UniversityPO Box 23-175TaipeiTaiwan, ROCPhone: 886 2 23627652Fax: 886 2 23627652e-mail: swang@ntu.edu.tw

Coastal Hoodoos

Detlef A. WarnkeDepartment of Geological SciencesCalifornia State UniversityHayward CA 94542-3088USAPhone: 1 510 885 4716Fax: 1 510 885 2526e-mail: dwarnke@csuhayward.edu

Pluvial Lake Shore Deposits

Niels WestDepartment of Marine AffairsUniversity of Rhode IslandKingston RI 02881-0817USAPhone: 401 874 4046

xxx CONTRIBUTORS

Fax: 401 874 2156e-mail: nielsmaf@uri.com

Beach Use and BehaviorsCleaning Beaches

Dean WhitmanLaboratory for Coastal ResearchFlorida International UniversityMiami FL 33199USA

Airborne Laser Terrain Mapping and Light Detectionand Ranging

Patricia L. WibergDepartment of Environmental SciencesUniversity of VirginiaCharlottesville VA 22903-4123USAPhone: 1 804 924-7546e-mail: pw3c@virginia.edu

Wave–Current Interaction

Allan T. WilliamsApplied Sciences DepartmentUniversity of GlamorganPontypriddMid GlamorganWalesUKPhone: 44 01656 783928Fax: 44 91443 480558e-mail: allan.williams@virgin.net

Marine Debris—Onshore, Offshore, Seafloor Litter

P.P. WongDepartment of GeographyNational University of Singapore10 Kent Ridge CrescentSingapore 119260Phone: 65 874 3859Fax: 65 777 3091e-mail: geowpp@nus.edu.sg

ReclamationTourism, Criteria for Coastal Sites

Guy WoppelmannCentre Littoral de GeophysiqueUniversite de La RochelleAvenue Michel Crepeau17042 La Rochelle Cedex 1

FrancePhone: 33 5 46458205Fax: 33 5 46458249e-mail: gwoppelm@univ-lr.fr

Tide Gauges

Alejandro Yáñez-ArancibiaInstituto de Ecologia A.C.Division de Recurso NaturalesJefe Programa de Recursos CosterosPO Box 63Xalapa 91000Km 2.5 Antigua Carretera Xalapa-CoatepecXalapaVer. MexicoPhone: 52 28 421800 ext 3413Fax: 52 28 187809e-mail: aya@ecologia.edu.mx

Middle America, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology

Prasanna YennavarBiological Oceanography DivisionNational Institute of OceanographyDona Paula, Goa 403 004India

Indian Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology

Wyss W.-S. YimDepartment of Earth SciencesUniversity of Hong KongPokfulam RoadHong Kong SARChinaPhone: 852 2859 2829/2859 1084 MessagesFax: 852 2517 6912e-mail: wwsyim@hku.hk

Submerged Coasts

Keqi ZhangLaboratory for Coastal ResearchFlorida International UniversityMiami FL 33199USA

Airborne Laser Terrain Mapping and Light Detection and Ranging

CONTRIBUTORS xxxi

As millions of people move toward the coastline, the rise in sea level ismoving the coastline toward them. Anxious for a good view of the sea,property owners crowd the retreating beaches and governments seek theadvice of coastal scientists and engineers to find a way to control theerosion problem. As a consequence, the study of sea level change, thegreenhouse effect, the coastal processes and ways to respond to retreat-ing coastlines have become paramount priorities. Coastal science hasbenefited tremendously.

For example, the search for sand used for beach nourishment, cur-rently a favored erosion control approach, is pouring millions of dollarsinto the hands of those who operate vibracores, side-scan sonar, andshallow seismic devices. The applied science that is carried out to findsand is almost exactly the same as the preferred basic science approachto determine the recent history of shorefaces, coasts, and islands, and todiscern the processes that have shaped them. This combined need-to-know and funding bonanza are in significant part responsible for a leapin our comprehension of nearshore processes in the last two decades.So, Maurice Schwartz’s enormous effort in bringing us this newEncyclopedia of Coastal Science is most timely.

Specialty encyclopedias, especially one concerned with a fast movingscience, such as this, provide a contemplative ledge, a place to pause and consolidate recent accomplishments. Inclusion of almost all of theseasoned practitioners of coastal earth science as contributors addssignificantly to this volume’s usefulness and credibility as well as itspotential as a point of consolidation for our science.

This volume is replete with essays on a great number of topics thatincorporate the most recent illations, judgments, and discoveries incoastal studies. What are these great advances, especially those that haveoccurred in coastal science in the 20 years since the Schwartz-editedEncyclopedia of Beaches and Coastal Environments hit the book stores?This question, a perennial favorite in Ph.D. exams, will be answereddifferently according to one’s subspecialty. My first choice is the pushforward in understanding the shoreface processes, the all-importantlink between the subaerial beach and the continental shelf. The topic iscovered in at least half a dozen articles in the encyclopedia includingthose by Ed Clifton, Miles Hayes, Robert Dean, Alan Niedoroda, andVictor Goldsmith. There are also articles on the major technologicaladvances that have fueled the advance of coastal science, including aaphotogrammetry, side-scan sonar, synthetic aperture radar systems, and

Foreword

LIDAR among others (R. Thieler, Doug Inman, Keith Raney, andStephen Leatherman).

A global perspective is furnished in separate articles about thecoastal geomorphology of each continent, including the Antarctic,with companion articles on the ecology of the same coasts. A differentapproach to the big picture is provided through articles on coastlinetypes such as tide- and wave-dominated (Miles Hayes), ice-bordered(Jess Walker), bay beaches (Karl Nordstrom), vegetated coasts (DeniseReed), muddy coasts (Terry Healy), chalk coasts (Vincent May), karstcoasts (Roland Paskoff) and uplift coasts (Terry Healy). This small sam-pling of authors is indicative of the care that editor Schwartz has takento fill the contributor slots with the “right” people with appropriatespecialties.

Maurice Schwartz presents us with his second coastal encyclopedia.The first one, The Encyclopedia of Beaches and Coastal Environments(Hutchinson Ross, 1982) became the reference bible for coastal geologistsand geomorphologists. At least it was for me. Not surprisingly, in this fastmoving specialty, it is now out of date. I believe this new encyclopediawill prove to be equally important, but to a broader spectrum of coastalspecialists.

The Encyclopedia of Coastal Science follows true to the title and cutsa broad swath. Titles are more sweeping. Individual entries are mostlytopical essays rather than the dictionary-like definitions of the earlierencyclopedia. For example, instead of individual short definitions anddescriptions of bulkheads, groins, jetties, seawalls, offshore breakwatersand the like, Nick Kraus has contributed two entries: Shore ProtectionStructures and Navigation Structures. The range of article topics ishuge. Some of the outliers include coastal warfare, cleaning beaches,sand rights, oil spills, setbacks, polders, and tourism.

I believe the Encyclopedia of Coastal Science will prove to be a price-less resource for both educators and researchers in the coastal sciencesas well as for those who use science in managing our nearshoreresources. I would even like to see it on the bookshelves of beach cottages, although the volume is not intended for a lay audience.This resource is perfect for those who need succinct and authoritativeinformation on most aspects of coastal science.

Orrin H. PilkeyDuke University

Map measurements of the world’s coastline length have yielded a figureof 500,000 km. However, when all of the very real and intricate coastalcrenulations are considered, the actual length is probably closer to1,000,000 km. Added to this is the fact that 40% of the 6,000,000,000people presently inhabiting the earth live within 100 km of a coastline.From these observations, it can be seen that coasts are a very major geo-morphic and social feature on the face of the planet. And for this rea-son, scholars in a multitude of disciplines have long been studying themany facets of the zone where the land meets the sea.

In this collected volume, authorities in many fields expound on certainaspects of their expertise, not so much in a dictionary of terms sense as in aseries of essays that may be broken down into such categories as: atmos-phere and oceanography, ecology, engineering and technology, geomor-phology, and human activities related to the coasts (see Appendix 6: TopicCategories). The reader may not completely agree with some of their views;in fact, some of the authors do not agree entirely with each other. Perusingthrough professional journals in these fields would show the same variety ofopinions on a given topic. For that is the nature of science, holding forth ona subject as interpreted by long and careful study of the evidence. What isthen to be found here, between the covers of this volume, are 306 entriesthat contain a wealth of information on different aspects of the world’scoast, which we all hold so dear. If there are any questions of omissions orjudgment, the fault then lies entirely with me, the editor.

In a similar vein, one would expect the terminology of a science tohave universal acceptance; but, sadly, that is not the case. For example,the ubiquitous term “shoreline” can be employed in the historical geomorphic sense of the line formed by the edge of the water againstthe land as it rises and falls through tidal cycles or atmospheric changes;or as it has been defined by the US Coast and Geodetic Survey for mapping purposes as the high-tide line, high-water line, or wet–dryboundary. In order for the term to mean the same thing whereverit appears in this volume the geomorphic meaning has been adopted, orclarified where it has deviated from that. For further clarification of thisdichotomy, the reader is referred to the entry titled Coasts, Coastlines,Shores, and Shorelines.

Though there have been many trials and tribulations during the fourto five years that it has taken to bring this volume to publication, therehave also been moments of humor that lightened the load along theway. While explanations for late contributions ran rampant, none wasmore acceptable than that from the contributor down-under who, whileworking on a major topic, brought forth two “bubs” (a girl and a boy)to add to an already large family. For sheer inventiveness to a contribu-tor who did not want to repeat a previously published survey, thatprogressed around a continent in a clockwise fashion, there was youreditor’s suggestion that he simply proceed in a counter-clockwise direc-tion. In the end it came out only halfway there. Then too, probably thebest single line in any entry contained here is the quote to the effect thata certain coastal feature is “… rather like pornography—difficult todefine, but you know it when you see it!” That could only be topped bycorrespondence from another down-under contributor who used wildlycolorful expressions that can not even be repeated here.

Of course, I am most appreciative to all of the very many people whohave been involved in this project. However, two individuals stand outmost significantly. The first and foremost is the editor-in-chief of thisearth-science encyclopedia series, Rhodes Fairbridge, who has been myteacher, mentor, and friend for the past 40 years. The second is PeterBinfield, my editor at Kluwer Academic Publishers, who has guided methrough this project with expertise, patience, and humor. To both ofthese gentlemen, I offer my most profound gratitude. Thanks are alsodue to Russ Burmester, Vicki Critchlow, Gene Hoerauf, Larry Palmer,Kevin Short, and Chris Sutton, at Western Washington University, forconsiderable technical support.

Sadly, media specialist Kevin Short, who worked his computer magicon many graphics in the volume including the cover photo, passed awaysuddenly in January of 2004 at the age of 44. Colleagues and friends alikewill miss Kevin and remember him for his kindness, humor, and creativity.

Maurice Schwartz

Preface