el chorro topos - laipiojimo sporto centrastherock.lt/biblioteka/elchorroescalada.pdf · antequera...

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Antequera

VillanuevaValle de Abdalagis

Estación

Ardales

Teba

Álora

Carratraca

Pizarra

Coin

Alhaurin

CártamaMALAGA

El Chorro

Desplomlandia

Campillos Gorge

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio

A area with a lot of caves.

DirectionTeba

Albercones

Amptrax AreaPoema de Roca

Placas del OlimpoEscalera Arabe

El Corral

BedeesLas Encantadas

Santimonia

Pasarela deLos Venenos

Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo

Los BloquesEl Invento

Sector Escenario

Las BanerasRailway side

Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

Antequera

VillanuevaValle de Abdalagis

Estación

Ardales

Teba

Álora

Carratraca

Pizarra

Coin

Alhaurin

CártamaMALAGA

1 Jenny 52 Estrella 4+3 ? (top rope) 4+4 ? (top rope) 4+5 ? (top rope) 4+6 Little brown baby 7a7 Simón ha perdido el panadero 6c+8 Luna 6c9 Instinto 6a10 Big fun 6a+11 Montón de chatarra 6a12 Vas pisando huevos 413 La corona 4+14 Punto de salida 515 La Chivito ( neads gear ) 3,4,316 Trepadero de Acceso 517 Sapillo Momificato 7b+18 Saque la Lengua 6b+19 Cosa de Dos 6c20 Troncomovil 6a

30 Babi 6a31 Puitferio 5+,532 Er Vuelo de los Peluos 6a+33 El Virgo de Vencenteta 6b+34 Cita en Sevilla 7a+35 El Truco del Almendruco 7a36 Sufre Mamón 7a+

27 Océano gris 7a28 Zulú Exprés 6a+29 Chica pelirroja 6a

1.Albercones South, southeast5 - 20 m.A couple up to 60 m.

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden

How to find the crag:

Drive or walk to the bar by the Raileway station in El Chorro.Continue through the village and locate the small road that turns off tothe left. The road pass a camping area (on your left ). Finally you arrive to aopen place where you have to park the car if you have one. The crag is locatedon the other side of the railway. The tunnel to the left is the access to a lot ofother crags as Santimonia, Los Venenos but also crags as far away as ElMakinodromo. The right tunnel ( which leads back to El Chorro ) is narrow andhas no pedestrain access.

P

Gravelled road from El Chorro

The wall of "Frontales Bajas" continues

2. Amptrax

1 9,10

19

16

1715

18

2625242322

2120

2829

27

30

32

363533

34

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

31

65432

8711,12

1413

1110

21 Ganimedes 6b+22 Engrase la Bisgara 6c+23 Estas Porido Chaval 7c+24 ? 8a25 Chicüelito Querido 6b+26 Arzapua 7b P

Albercones


Los Venenos

2. Amptrax

South, southeast5 - 30 m.four routes up to 150 m.


P

Albercones


Los Venenos

1 Amptrax ( neads gear ) 3,4,5,5,5,4,42 Las Cabras ( neads gear ) 5,4,4+3 Coño Paco 7a4 Sexo, drogas y flamenco 7a+5 Alicía 7b+6 Bienvenido al circo 7b7 Qué leche que tengo 6c,7b8 Judea del frente popular 7b+9 Frente popular de Judea 6a+,6c+,6b,6a10 No está acabada 6b+11 Soñador de grado 412 Aquistoy yo 513 ? 6a+,6a,6a

Next to route number 12 follows seven short routes.How to find the crag:

Drive or walk to the bar by the Raileway station in El Chorro.Continue through the village and locate the small road that turns off tothe left. The road pass a camping area (on your left ). Finally you arrive to aopen place where you have to park the car if you have one. The crag is locatedon the other side of the railway. Take the track that leads up the hill over thetunnel to the right. The tunnel to the left is the access to a lot of other crags asSantimonia, Los Venenos but also crags as far away as El Makinodromo. Theright tunnel ( which leads back to El Chorro ) is narrow and has no pedestrainaccess.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

12

1011

13

Short routes

9

12

8

6543

7

3.1. Poema de Roca Take me to 3.2

South, southeast10 - 30 m.A few up to 200 m.



Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continueand pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and followthe step road. Just where the road starting to be strait asmall gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left, followthat. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel andyou will come to the same road. Follow this road, first in aquite wide right turn, then it change direction towards theother side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will seePoema de Roca. Ignore the first little road to the left andtake the next one down to an open place, park here. Walktowards the crag on one of many tracks that al leads to it.

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

7,8

8

915

22

7 Verdes Venonas 6c,7a+8 Hierbes Letales 6c,7b9 Maquina Cualquiera 7b+,6c+,7a+,7b+,7a+,6a+15 Poema de Roca 7a,7c+,7b,7c,7a,6c22 ? 6b,7a31 Mario Jacinto 6b+32 ? 7a33 ? 7c34 ? 7a35 ? 5+36 ? 6a,6a,6a37 Café cous bourbon 5+,6c,7a,6c+38 Gaia 6c,7a+,6b+39 Insomnia de equipamiento 6c+40 Seco y Pedro 6b,6c,7a41 ? 6a,6c+,7a42 Black cave 7b

AmptraxRefugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

Placas del Olimpo

3937

3635

34333231

4140

42

38

3.2. Poema de Roca Take me to 3.1 The cave

South, southeast10 - 30 m.A few up to 200 m.


P

Albercones


Los Venenos

Amptrax

1

65

432

7,8

8

9

10

1716

14,15

131211

2120191823

25

2726

28

15

29

30

1 Café Burbuscon 5+,6c,7a,6c+2 Gaia 6c,7a+,6b+3 Insominio de Equipamiento 6c+4 Seco y Pedro 6b,6c,7a+5 ? 6a,6c+,7a+6 ? 7b7 Verdes Venonas 6c,7a+8 Hierbes Letales 6c,7b9 Maquina Cualquiera 7b+,6c+,7a+,7b+,7a+,6a+10 Lavia Stragniato 7b+11 Eye of the storm 7b+12 Thunder struck 8a13 Swimming trough a shark attack 8a14 Poema de roca first pitch 7a15 Poema de roca 7a,7c+,7b,7c,7a,6c16 Rima libre 8a17 Viejo traidor 7b+18 Morritos Jeagger 7b19 Viejo Amigo 7a20 García Aguas 6b21 Suizo 5+22 Vivacporus 7b23 El señor de las tinieblas 6b,7a24 Block 6c25 Solarium 7b26 Lobo Lobez 7b27 Deprish y con Bulla 6c28 Agip 6a+29 Nanuz 6a+30 A Pique de un Repique 6c


Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the Hotel. In thefirst T-junction, hold left and follow the step road. Just where the road starting to bestrait a small gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left, follow that. If you walk, finda track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same road. Follow this road,first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards the other side of thevalley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema de Roca. Ignore the first little road tothe left and take the next one down to an open place, park here. Walk towards thecrag on one of many tracks that al leads to it.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

Placas del Olimpo

2422

4. Placas del Olimpo

West20 to 60 m.


P


1,2 3

2

6,7

54

8

910 6

7 11

12 1413

15

1 Los Aristogatos 4,6c2 Los Aristogatos variant 4,6c3 Hijos de la Luna 54 Diploducus Acino 6a+5 Yerma 7a6 Vuelo Migratorio 5+,47 Vuelo Migratorio variant 5,5+8 Muñon Free 7a+9 ? 6c10 Troglodita Feroz 6b11 Bye bye happiday 6a12 Gran Fisura 513 Trango 8b14 Kukenham Tepoy 7c15 Escalon de Hillary 6a+,6a+

All routes except number 13 and 14 neadsgear.


Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and passthe Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road.Just where the road starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty roadturns of sharp to the left, follow that. If you walk, find a track directup from the Hotel and you will come to the same road. Follow thisroad, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towardsthe other side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poemade Roca. Ignore two small roads that turns off to the left and parkin a right bend where the road are near the crag ( you have justpassed the valley ). Walk the steep track up to the crag.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos


Las Encantadas

5.1. Escalera Arabe Take me to 5.2.

South30 m.


1 The final after 7b2 El beso de la flaca 5+3 Lucky no come Pan 6a 14 Birdy 7b+4 Filou 6a 15 Calvo potrón 7c5 Blanca 6a 16 Coming on strong 7a+6 Engendro caneki 6b+,6c 17 Rock the kasbah 7b7 El amor Sandunguero 6c 18 Sólo afeitar 6a8 Enscalopendra guajani 6a,6a+ 19 La Raya a la izquierda 59 El árabe perdido 6c+ 20 For fite 6b10 Lococolo 7a 21 Double edged 6c11 Diedre torpedo 6c 22 El Navigator 6c,6a,6c12Arabesque 7a 4,7a13 Sheik tu dinero 7a 23 Los gemelos 6c

24 Longarone 6b+ 25 ? 6c


Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the Hotel.In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road. Just where the roadstarting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left, followthat. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to thesame road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change directiontowards the other side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema deRoca. Ignore two small roads that turns off to the left and pass a right bendwhere the road are near the crag ( you have just passed the valley ). Continuea couple of hundred metres and park on a lay-bay on your left. A pinnacle canbe seen, this is by the crag. A couple of hundreds metres hard walk up to thecrag rewards with a beautiful scenery and nice climbing.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

P

Poema de RocaPlacas del Olimpo

Escalera Arabe

Las Encantadas

3 6874 5 1111111111111

12119

10

1314

171615

18 212019

2

1

2523,2422

23

El Pilarsee separate TOPOS

5.2. Escalera Arabe Take me to 5.1.

South30 m.



Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the Hotel.In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road. Just where the roadstarting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left, followthat. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to thesame road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change directiontowards the other side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema deRoca. Ignore two small roads that turns off to the left and pass a right bendwhere the road are near the crag ( you have just passed the valley ). Continuea couple of hundred metres and park on a lay-bay on your left. A pinnacle canbe seen, this is by the crag. A couple of hundreds metres hard walk up to thecrag rewards with a beautiful scenery and nice climbing.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

P

Poema de RocaPlacas del Olimpo

Escalera Arabe

Las Encantadas

2120 28272625242322

31

3029

20 For fite 6b21 Double edged 6c22 La chillona 4,6a,6a23 O sole mio 5+24 Los timbales 525 El artista 426 Dos tetas tiran 6b+27 Más que una carreta 6a28 Highway to Africa 5+,6b29 Mali en Suzuki 6a+, 6c30 Kiwi 531 La gaita 4+

6. Las Encantadas

South30 m.



Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue andpass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow thestep road. After a couple of sharp bends the road becomes "strait". After about200 meters you will find a closed bar on your right. Park there and walk up to thecrag. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to thesame road.These crags, Las Encantades, El corral and Bedees, superb crags, is unfortunatelysometimes closed, so you better ask some locals of the situation before youclimb. You must use a 60 meters rope for safe lower-off.If you stay at Finca la Campana, walk up between the refugio and the house tothe crag.

1

874

6532

1413121110

918

171615

2120

19

1 Bolondro 6a+2 Nobro Propio 6a3 Bohem Destrell 6a+4 Poum Poum Ram Ram 6a5 Para Que Disfrute la Canalla 6b6 Crisis de Intentidad 6a+7 Atenea 48 Geisha 6a 23 Espoloa Nombrada 7a+9 Program Genocida 6c 24 Un Poco Vicioso 7a+10 Mañon Tropo 7b 25 Mezcia Explosiva 8a11 Las Mulas Comen Muchas Cuerdas 8a+ 26 Kit Grimpe 7b+12 Un Lait Fraiche pour Monsieur 7b 27 Gros Rouge 7b13 Generación Límite 7b+ 28 ? 7a14 Mam Endika 8a+ 29 Sara 7a+15 Bueno, Bonito y Barato 6c+ 30 ? 7b16 Chorro Mundo 7a+ 31 Dura Vida la de un Frekee 6c+17 La ley del Cateto 6c+ 32 Fiebra de Sur 7a18 Mataillos Lugareños 6c19 Artemisa 5+20 Tipo Indio 7b+21 No me Miras Mal 8a22 No Puedo Controlarme 6c+

P

Poema de Roca

Las Encantadas

22

272631,32

30

2928

23

24 25

32

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos


Bedees

7 and 8. Bedees and El Corral

South, southeast30 m.

No stars since the crag has been closed for long.


1

32

87654 13,

14

121110

9

13

15

16191817

Bedees (Not on TOPO)

1 Preparete en los Bodgegas 6c2 Bedees 6b+3 Einfach zu Einfach 6b

El Corral

1 Arnold 7a+2 El Corral 5+3 Mano Incorrecto 6c4 La Cantante calve 7c5 Super mano 7b+6 Los Muyayos 6c+7 Doble cero 7a8 Lengua de Fuego 7a+9 Avecrem a mano 6b10 Ceregumil´s kid 7b11 Pata Negra 8a12 Monodedo de mono 8b13 Un día de Playa 7c+14 Capitian Carvernícola 7c+15 Resbaizimo 7b16 Ritz 6a+17 Tumbado 6c+18 El Jouen Roman 6b19 La Chata Rosa 7b

P

Poema de Roca

El Corral

Bedees


Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue andpass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow thestep road. After a couple of sharp bends the road becomes "strait". After about200 meters you will find a closed bar on your right. Park there and walk up to thecrag. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to thesame road.These crags, Las Encantades, El corral and Bedees, superb crags, is unfortunatelysometimes closed, so you better ask some locals of the situation before youclimb. You must use a 60 meters rope for safe lower-off.If you stay at Finca la Campana, walk up between the refugio and the house tothe crag.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos


Las Encantadas

9. Caliza

North15 m.



From El Chorro, drive or walk on the road over the bridge by the dam..Turn right and continue about 300 meters and Calzia is located justby the road on your left.

Hotel

P

DirectionAlóra

Sector Caliza

1

76

5432 121198 10 13 14

1 Caliza 6b+2 Parecia 6b3 Aranpicare con Adan 6b4 La Abujeritos 6a5 No más té 6a+6 Harte un té 5+7 Santi ana 58 ? 6b+9 ? ?10 Medio Dia 6a11 Nocturna 6a+12 Diurana 6a+13 ? ?14 ? 7b+

Route number 11 neads gear.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

1 Diedro de Hercules 6b+,6b2 Luz Verde 7b3La Cupla la Tiene el Bar de Isabel 7a4 Fruto prohibito 8b5 ? 6c+6 Aixamatinae 7c+7 Jaque el Rey 7c+8 Les Cutres 6b+9 Pedorro y Macaco 7c+

10 Demócratas Cristianos 7a+ 17 Victima de la Evidence 6a11 No seas pesada nena 6c+ 18 Empotrador Atómico 5+12 Camino shuffle 7b 19 Zapatilla Jebe 7a13 El techito del pirata 6a,5,5+,5+,5+ 20 Excedente de cupo 6a,6a+,6b,514 La Ampola 5,6a,6a,6a,5+ 21 Venecia celeste 5+,5+,5+,415 Octopus dey 6c,6a,6c16 Avión Rockero 5+,6a,6a

10. Los Venenos and Pasarela de Los Venenos

South, southeast15 - 40 m.Some up to 110 m.



From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railwaythrough the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant butit is a fast way to the other area´s and when you ain´t in the tunnels the scenerysometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a amazingconcrete path where you sometimes could need a rope for safe access.

Santimonia

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Los Venenos

Walkway toSantimonia

1

2

4

5

3

6 7 8 9 10 11 12

13

1721

20

1814

13

15

16

15

19

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos


11 . Santimonia

South60 m.One is a multi pitch fromthe ground.


Santimonia


Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Los Venenos

To Pasarela deLos venenos

To Africa

1

2

34

5,6

6

7

8 9 10

113

12

1314

1 Ventana en el Tropico 7a+2 Camino sin Ander 4,6a,6a+,43 Sendero Luminoso 5+/a2,6a,

3,6b,6c+,5,54 Polva de Angel 8b+5 Hartelo 7b6 Sangre Latina 6c7 La Tregua del pedal 7c+8 Santimonia 6c+,6a,6b

9 Desos de Domino 7a+10 Jabega 7b+11 Moco de Hierro 6c12 Lobo de Mar 7a+13 Er-Mouriadine 6c14 Chupa la gamba 6b,6b


From the parking at Albercones ( seecrag number 1 ), walk by the railwaythrough the tunnels (look out for train!) to this area. The track ain't pleasantbut it is a fast way to the other area´sand when you ain´t in the tunnels thescenery sometimes are extraordinarily.The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is aamazing concrete path where yousometimes could need a rope for safeaccess.Before the tunnel at Los Venenos,take left and follow the concretewalkway around the corner. Justbefore the Pipe bridge there is a biggap in the walkway so take care.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

12. Cerro Cristo

South, southeastUp to 160 m.



From El Chorro. Drive or walk down the "main" road, passthe bridge over the dam and take right. You will pass SectorCaliza and a bar, both on your left. Continue until the roadturns left and you are about to miss the view over the lake.You will find a car park on the right side of the road. Walkback and down to the water ( often just sand and stone ). Findsome dry way to cross over to the crag.This crag ain't really worth visiting.

Santimonia

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

1 3 42 5 76

8

1 Heavy gravity 6c+2 Bring your friends 6a+3 Pos Comeme el Cipote Maricona 6c+4 I'm still thinking 6c+,7a5 Teta, Coño, Culo 6c+,8a,5+6 Aparacamiento Indebido 5+,6a,6b,6c7 Rayito de Luna 4,5+,6a,6a,6a,6b+8 Thaillelandia 7c+

Route number 1,2,3,6 and 7 neads gear.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

13. Africa

North, northeastMulti pitch up to 150 m.


Santimonia

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

12,3 5,6

4

2 3

5

4

3

3

Tunnelfrom Juaja.1 Material Belico 4,5,5,6a

2 Africa 6a+,6b+,5,6b3 La bella y la bestia 6a+,7a+,7a,7a4 Chiripitiglauticos 5+,6a,5+,6b+5 La Dame del viento 6b+,6b,6c,6c+6 Cuando se lo diga a mis amigos 6b+,6b,6c+,6b+

All routes neads gear for descent, rote number 3 and 5are fully boulted.


From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (lookout for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasantbut it is a fast way to the other area´s and whenyou ain´t in the tunnels the scenery sometimesare extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino delRay ) is a amazing concrete path where yousometimes could need a rope for safe access.Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take left andfollow the concrete walkway around the corner.Just before the Pipe bridge there is a big gap inthe walkway so take care.Cross the bridge and on your left is Africa.Approach by crawling along a tunnel that ismarked on the TOPO for Sector Juaja. Abseil 52meter to the ledge over the water and traverseleftwards.Use the same tunnel to get back.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

14. Juaja

Northwest25 m.


Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El RecodoAccess toAfrica

ToEl Recodo

1 2

4

3

5

6

8,910

7

9

11

1 Enimigo Público 7b+2 Juaja 7a+3 E por Doquier 8a+4 Granainos '85 6b5 Atlética y Llorica 7b6 ? 7c7 ? 7b+8 Cangreo 8c9 Monsters forever 8b+10 Verbene de Lapiz 7c+11 Una Española nunca mea sola 7b+

Route number 4 neads gear.


From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railwaythrough the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasantbut it is a fast way to the other area´s and when you ain´t in the tunnels thescenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is aamazing concrete path where you sometimes could need a rope for safeaccess.Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take left and follow the concrete walkwayaround the corner. Just before the Pipe bridge there is a big gap in the walkwayso take care.Cross the bridge and you will find these crag.The tunnel is the access to Africa.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

15. El Recodo

North30 m.


Juaja Africa

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

See "How to find the crag" for route 1,2 and3.

1 Moloko plus 6c+2 Verdonia 6c+3 Enano Pagano 6c+4 Pixci 6b+5 Dixci 6c+6 La Canastera 7b+7 Tipo Sueca 6c+8 Calígula 6c,7b+9 El Campista 7b+10 Musas Inquientantes 8a11 Iriquieza 7b+,7c+12 Hari-Kiri 8c+13 Bon voyage 6c,6b+14 Rasta de posta 6b+15 Come Unas 6a+16 Bob Marley 7b+17 Los Capitalistas 7c+18 Rovicunda 6b19 Todos pretenden saber 6c+20 Los Gozas y las Sombras 6c+,7a21 King Kong 6b+22 Indio Jumeli 6c23 Recodo 6a+24 Six Vicious 6b+25 Tumisimo 7b+26 Sietebe del Plumero 7a+27 Miss Dedos 6c+28 Lluvias Otoñales 5+29 Maestro Golpeador 6b

4 5 6 78 9

10

1112

13

15

161817

14

19

26252423

222120

27

28

29


From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railwaythrough the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasantbut it is a fast way to the other area´s and when you ain´t in the tunnels thescenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is aamazing concrete path where you sometimes could need a rope for safe access.Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take left and follow the concrete walkwayaround the corner. Just before the Pipe bridge there is a big gap in the walkwayso take care.Cross the bridge and follow the walkway, pass Juaja, in to a cleft and continue,behind the next corner you will find most of the routes of this sector. Just beforeyou pass the corner a track up to the left leads you to the first tree routes, inthe Verdonia sector, all are graded 6c+.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

16. Mustapha

South60 m.


18. Acuario

East25 m.

17. Zeppelin

South10 to multi pitch of 300 m.


From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (lookout for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasantbut it's a fast way to the other area´s. Walk throughseveral tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, thetunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleftwith a extrordinary scenery, continue and the nexttime you will see the sky it's time to abseil downfrom the railway bridge. Go left if you want to climbroute number 12 and 13, head right if you want toclimb any of the others.


El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Venenos

Acuario

Mustapha

1 54

3

2

6

98

7

1110

1213

1 Zeppelin 4,6a+,5,6c,6c+,5,6b+,3,6b,4

2 Espolón Masay 3,5+,5+,5,5+6b+,3,6b,4

3 ? 8c4 Shaka Zulu 8b5 Perspectiva Neieski 8b+6 Lactarius Delciosus 6b+7 La Peña se Despeña 6c+8 Acuario 6a+9 Papalillo Pafuena 6a10 Mustafa 6c+,7c+,5+11 Estrella de Sur 6c+,7a12 Diedre de Los Vencejos a113 Los Tres Techos a214 ? (no TOPO) 6b+15 Bahia Cochino (no TOPO) 7a+

Route number 1,2,8,9,12 and 13neads gear.

14 and 15. The firstone is 14.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

19.1. Los Cotos Take me to the right part of this crag.

Sector Bajas and MediosSoutheast35 m.


Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Tunnel to El Chorro

1 876

5432

10

9

11

12

16

1314

15

191817 22,23

2120 24

23

26,2725

28,29

30

2728

16 Fisura de Hombre 517 Bitchitos on the wailers 4+18 El Monstruo de las Galletas 5+

1 Diedro y Quique 3+ 19 Mordiscos de Amor 52 Ordinada Salvaje 6a+ 20 Alucinosis 4+3 Mama quiero ser Torero 6b 21 ? 54 San Satanas 6a+ 22 Mitad Hombre´Mitad Galleta e4 5c5 San Gabriel 4+,5+ 23 Number one 46 La Hora del Maquis 5+ 24 Bruja Intrepida 57 La Placa Morrocoduda 6a 25 Numero dos 58 Berrinche de Chinche 6b 26 Galleta 49 El Yerno de Abraham 6a 27 Super Galleta 5+10 Les Muelles de Guite 6a+,7a+ 28 Gaby 6b+11 4 Mejilliones 20 duros 6c+ 29 Los Mandriles no comen Galletas 6a+12 Rafael Anyaya 5 30 Madriles 7a13 Camella cojo 514 Fisuroterapia 5 Routes written in Italics neads gear.15 Fisura de los Santos 5


From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by therailway through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The trackain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other area´s. Walk throughseveral tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up andyou will be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue andpass the Zeppelin area. After the next tunnel you will find these cragon both sides of the entrance to the next tunnel.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

19.2. Los Cotos Take me to 19.1.

Sector Cotos AltosSoutheast45 m.


Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Tunnel to El Chorro

1

87

65

432

15,16

14

1312

119,10

10

17,18

1921,2220

15 18 22

25,2624

23

25

26

28 29,30

27

30

31

32,33

363534

32

1 Invernal 5+ 12 Cafe Bonk 7a+2 Empotrador Empotrador 4+,4+ 13 Penetración Analgéssica 6c3 Cebolla Oscilante 5+ 14 Si te Caes pega una voz 6c4 Genesis 6a+ 15 Amarilla 5,5+5 Mongroni free 6a+ 16 Fanáticos del Ático 5,6c6 Arbola 6a+7 Bruner and the Bruna 6a+8 Ley de la Selva 6b+9 Embolia Cerebral 5+,510 The policeman stole my Walkman 5+,6b11 Güirilandia 7a

28 Chulo de Madriza 7a29 El Piqui 6c30 Petamorfosis 7b31 The butter finger 8a32 Mister proper 5+,4+33 El Viajero Amable 6b+34 Adeli 6b+

23 Profanes y Blasfemos 6b+ 35 Electro Volt 6b+24 Pisto Gilguero 6c+ 36 Exodo 6a+

17 El ventorro 5,6a 25 Que Te den por Culo 6b,518 La Blanca 5,6b 26 El Dinamitate te Espera 6b,6c19 Guerro del Abismo 7a 27 Yu Yu 6c20 Exceso de Equipaje 6c21 Chungo Superior 5+,6a22 Quasimodo 7a+


From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by therailway through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The trackain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other area´s. Walk throughseveral tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up andyou will be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue andpass the Zeppelin area. After the next tunnel you will find this crag onyour right.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

20. El Polvorin

South60 m.


Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Tunnel to El Chorro

Walk down

1

5,6,7

4

2

2

3

5

6

4

10981112

13,14

13

14

1516

17

201918

1 Al Chorro con un porro 6b2 Alerta Roja 6c3 Sueño de Venus 5+,6a4 Sueño de Venus variant 6b5 Pilier Dorada 6c6 Generación Espontanea 6c7 Revuelta en el Frenopático 6c+8 Habitos de un Perturbado Irremerdiable 6c9 La Pregiera Tonta 6c10 games Moya 6a+11 Obsesion perma nente 6b+,6c12 Araña Mecánica 6b+13 Nirvana 5,6b+14 Rono y Extraploma 5,6c15 Urbi et orbe 7a16 Los Crocodrilos 7a+17 Paco Eugene 5,4,5,6a18 El Engendo 5+19 Rebuzonos de amor 7b+20 Jaquima 6c

Route number 17 and 18 neads gear.


From the parking at Albercones ( see cragnumber 1 ), walk by the railway through thetunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. Thetrack ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to theother area´s. Walk through several tunnels andpass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open upand you will be in a narrow cleft with aextrordinary scenery, continue and pass theZeppelin area. Continue and pass the area ofLos Cotos and after the next tunnel you willarrive to a beautiful valley with a perfect spotfor wild ( forbidden ) camping by the river. Thelocal police often visit this place to see that noone is camping here ( though many take downthe tents and put them up again after a coupleof hours). Walk down towards this place andyou will find El Polvorin.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

21. El Invento

Sooutheast20 m.


Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Tunnel to El Chorro

1

65

43

2

9

87

10

1716

1514

131211

1 Fresquito Fresquito 6c 11 Lo Tomas o lo Dejos 7b2 Me empino con un Chumino 6b 12 Champamania 6c+3 Discordia 6b 13 La Via Shin 6b4 Alucina por la Esquina 7b+ 14 Peripecias de Invalido 6c5 Diedro Veneno 6a 15 Nacida para la critica 6c+6 La leche que mamaste 7b+ 16 Hemoglobina 6b7 Ahora que te Pillo sola 7a+ 17 Juego duro 6c8 Sabino Royal 6c+9 Pantomines 6b+10 Esclavo del grado 6c+


From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railwaythrough the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasantbut it's a fast way to the other area´s. Walk through several tunnels and passsector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleft witha extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin area. Continue andpass the area of Los Cotos and after the next tunnel you will arrive to a beautifulvalley with a perfect spot for wild ( forbidden ) camping by the river. The localpolice often visit this place to see that no one is camping here ( though manytake down the tents and put them up again after a couple of hours). Take rightand leave the railway towards the crag up to your left on one of many tracksthat all leads to the crag.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

22. Los Bloques

Southeast15 m.


Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Tunnel to El Chorro

5,6

1

4

32

1 Comicos y Modistas 6b+2 Em 7a+3 Straw Donkey 7b4 La Tete de Mari 8b5 Hay un Guarillo en la Tapia 6a6 Salto del Grato 6b

5


From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railwaythrough the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant butit's a fast way to the other area´s. Walk through several tunnels and pass sectorLos Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleft with aextrordinary scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin area. Continue and passthe area of Los Cotos and after the next tunnel you will arrive to a beautiful valleywith a perfect spot for wild ( forbidden ) camping by the river. The local policeoften visit this place to see that no one is camping here ( though many takedown the tents and put them up again after a couple of hours). Take right andleave the railway towards the crag up to your left on one of many tracks that allleads to the crag. The first boulted area is El Invento, the second is this crag.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Tunnel to El Chorro

13 Rhythem method 7b14 Life is sweet 6c15 Anatema 7b

1 Samarkanda ? 16 Heat exchange 7a2 Randi ? 17 Canto pecato 7a+3 Al-Hakan 8b+ 18 One Bastiamba 7b4 Lourdes 8a 19 Post Festum 7b5 Cous-cous 8c 20 Mega flash 7a+6 Atlas Shrieked 7c+,7c+ 21 Grimal el Curtido 7a7 Smashing Pumpkins 7c+,7b+ 22 Punk Street 7a8 ? 7c+ 23 Holé 7b+9 Mutemroy 8a 24 Howling madness 7a+10 Vette al Infierno 7b11 Salida de Emergencia 6c12 Mystic Rhythem 6b+

23. El Makinodromo

Southeast35 m.



From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (lookout for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other area´s. Walk throughseveral tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleftwith a extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin area. Continue and pass the area of LosCotos and after the next tunnel you will arrive to a beautiful valley with a perfect spot for wild ( forbidden) camping by the river. The local police often visit this place to see that no one is camping here (though many take down the tents and put them up again after a couple of hours). Take right and leavethe railway towards the crag up to your left on one of many tracks that all leads to the crag. ElMakinodromo is a very beautiful crag with the well knowed route Lourdes (8a). It's a long walk to comehere, but the climbing and the scenery tends to make this crag to one of the best memories for a coldday at work back home.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

A judge beautiful overhang

1

986,

73

2

7

1412,13

10

13

11

1615

17

232220,

211918

24

21

54

24.1. Las Baneras Take me to 24.2.

Walkway side.North30 m.



The sector "Upper Gorge" could bereached from El Chorro, by foot, throughthe tunnels, but the walk takesapproximately 1,5 hour. But El Chorrois a place where you easy get in contactwith other climbers, and if you don'thave a car then try to get lift.Drive from El Chorro over the bridgeand take right. After a tour in a fantasticsurrealistic landscape you will come toa T-junction after about 5 km, turn right.Continue until just before a bar, a narrowroad turns to the right, follow that. Parkwhere you are not alowed to drivefurther and walk down to Upper Gorgeand the concrete walkway.

Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

P

1 Ojos Saltones 7b2 Hercules Poirot 8b3 El Robo del siglo 6b4 El Perito Caliente 6a+5 Al Verdón con un melón 6a+6 Vulture culture 6b7 Sin columpiarse 7a+8 Perro violador 6b+9 Algo sobre la virgen 6b10 A Golpe de mazo 7b+11 Replicanto y con el Mazo dando 7c+12 Walkway Waltz 6b+13 ? 7a14 Hijo puta el que quite La Chapa 6a15 Menbrillo 516 ? 6a+17 Moco 6b18 El ultimo Blues 6c19 Saga Corniz 6c+20 Mola más que America 6a+21 Tubular bells 6c+

1 2

543 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

15

14

212019181716

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

24.2. Las Baneras Take me to 24.1.

South and north30 m.A couple up to 60-200 m.


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

P

To the railway side

Route 3 on TOPO 24.1.

The railway side

1 2 104

3

5 6 7

89

11

12

16

13 14 15

1918

17

23

22 24 25 26 27 28

9 Tema libre 7c+10 la Topo buana 6b+,6b11 Vientos modernos 6c,6c+12-15 ? ?16 ? 7a+17 Giganta verde a0,7b+,8a,7b,7c+,8a,7a+,6c18 Onda vital 8c19 No acabada 8c+



Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

22 Vendavalas de Antigüedades 3,6b+,8a,7a,7a 5 Lavadero Flipin 6c23 ? 3,6b+,?,? 6 Especie de nada 7b24 Aspromanix 5+ 7 T.V. Plus 6c+25 Color dominante 7a+ 8 La tortas del grado 6a,7a+26 Morocioputa 6c+27 Imperio de sentidos 6c28 Pinchito moruno 6c

Railway side.1 La Yacuzi 6b+2 Les Estrellas nom Encaloman por los veredas 6a+3 Pate de Peil 6c+4 Era virgen y tenía holgura 7a+

25 and 26. Escenario and Brasil

South and north25 m.A couple up to 50 m.


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

P

1 2

76

5

8 9 10

43

1 Escenario de bufones 6a+,7a2 Avecrem a mano 5,5,6a+3 Instinto cabrero 7b+4 Instinto asesino 7a+5 Izquierdo camino 5+6 Joyous medio 57 El pudor de un Sola dios 58 Pachanga 7b9 Maverick 7a10 ? 6c+



Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

27. Petit Desfiladero

South and north45 m.


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

P

Abseil20 m.

1 2 3

7654 1098

Abseil30 m.

15

11

12 1413

1817

16

To El Invento

The railway side.

1 Robert Curtino 7a2 ? ?3 ? ?4 El último mangante 6b5 Empacho de gobacho 7a+6 Tú Vegas 7c7 Tito Camarón 6a+8 Les batiste 6c9 Les papanates 7b10 Torturas Ninjas 5

11 Ruta de la Lycra 6c12 La higuerola 7b13 Escuela sin grado 7c+14 paseo por el Limbo 7a15 Latex lubricated 6c+16 ? ?17 Charro del Charro 6c,6c+18 Cantos Nibelungos 7b


The sector "Upper Gorge" could bereached from El Chorro, by foot, throughthe tunnels, but the walk takesapproximately 1,5 hour. But El Chorrois a place where you easy get in contactwith other climbers, and if you don'thave a car then try to get lift.Drive from El Chorro over the bridgeand take right. After a tour in a fantasticsurrealistic landscape you will come toa T-junction after about 5 km, turn right.Continue until just before a bar, a narrowroad turns to the right, follow that. Parkwhere you are not alowed to drivefurther and walk down to Upper Gorgeand the concrete walkway. The bridgeand the track that follows leads to ElInvento and back to El Chorro.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

28.1. Outlying area, Desplomlandia

Northwest30 m.


Ardales

Teba

Desplomlandia

El Chorro

Campillos Gorge


To get to the outlying areas, Desplomlandia and Campillos Gorge, you nead a car. To getto Desplomlandia:Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After a tour in a fantastic surrealisticlandscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right. Continue to the next T-junction, hold right again and soon you will pass the bar where you take right if you areheading for Upper Gorge. Now pass the bar and continue. The landscape here is differentfrom El Chorro, you have a big lake on your left. After a couple of kilometers Desplomlandiaturns up on your right hand just under a mast.To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-junction you takeleft in the direction of Campillos and Teba. Follow signposts in the direction of Teba.Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a bridge, on the other side you will see a farmto the left. Park, cross the road and walk down to the riverbed where you find the crag.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

DirectionEl ChorroGravelled

road to thelake.

Click here toget to the cragPoza de la Mona

Click here toget to the cragEl cable Comola vida misma

Click here toget to the cragBuena sombra

Click here toget to the cragMetecaña

Click here toget to the cragSuizo

Click here toget to the cragTriángulo

1 Triángulo 7a+ 12 Qué tal mea tu padre? 7b 23 El ángel flamenco 7a 34 ? ?2 Maligno catarro 6c+ 13 Más que money 7b+ 24 Mamabi 6c+ 35 El chupacabras 7a+3 Aljamar 7b 14 De copas 7b 25 Manzanilla madness 7a 36 Chica 5+4 ? 7b+ 15 La copa 7b 26 Cheyenne 7a+ 37 ? 7b+5 Reina mora 7c 16 Puto cable 5+ 27 Máquina pestosa 7b+ 38 Lirón careto 7a,7c6 ? ? 17 La flaca 6c+ 28 ? ? 39 Escombro 5+7 Mar de ortigas 8a 18 La decepción 7a+ 29 Al andalú 6c 40 Aután 5+8 No toques a tu madre 8a+ 19 Uretrófilo 7a 30 Sandokan 7c 41 Los Zauden 7a9 Madre salvaje 7c 20 Akira 7b 31 Si te gusta el pique, pique 6b+10 Oasis de cristal 7c 21 Oleanna 7b+ 32 capitán sardina 6c11 Conexión pelijorra 8a 22 Mamabi 6c,7b 33 Calidad alemana 6b


Northwest30 m.

Take me to the Desplomlandia map

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

14,15

14

1 109

8

7

65432 1312

11

16

20 221819 21

1723 3532

3130262524

34

33

28,29

28

27

36

37

4039 41

38

Buena sombra

El Cable. Como la Vida Misma Triángulo

161514

17 18 19

20 21

17

6

5

432

1098

12

11

13


Northwest30 m.

Take me to the Desplomlandia map.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

Poza de la mona

Metecaña

1 ? 6b+ 14 Huevos cocidos 7a2 Súbete a la higuera 6a+ 15 ? ?3 Poda higuera 6b+ 16 ? ?4 Abrasiva 6c 17 ? ?5 Malva loca 6c+ 18 La calabaza 7c6 Fletán negro 7a+ 19 Joy 7b7 Bee-bee 6c+ 20 Té verde 7b8 ? ? 21 miel de romero 7a+9 Piña disfruta 7b10 Silicona beach 7b+11 Excremento 7a12 Iracunda 7c+13 prosineski 7c

28.4. Outlying area, Desplomlandia, Suizo

Northwest30 m.

Take me to the Desplomlandia map.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

1

76

54

32

12

1011

13

8 9

1 Las hermanas izuquierdo 7c2 El carnicero de Milwaukee 8a3 El asegurador de Huelva 7c+4 Induráin A25 Viuda negra 6c6 El Führer 7b7 O.J. Simpson 6c+8 ? ?9 ? ?10 ? ?11 ? ?12 Atrápalo 6a13 El retorno del dinamita 7b


29.1. Outlying area, Campillos Gorge Take me to the East side / the cave

West40 m.

Ardales

Teba

Desplomlandia

El Chorro

Campillos Gorge

1 4328 9,10,11,12

765

1211

10

1413

1 Yo Quierosa Papa 6b2 Below Tijo lands 7b3 Pegaso 6c+4 El Mono sin nombre 6b+5 Ya son muchas pechas 6c6 Mujer sin nombre 6b+7 ? 6c8 Nostalgia de Antono 6b+9 El grado viene despue 510 Elo 7b11 ? 7a+12 ? 7a13 ? ?14 Rodolfa y su cochine 6a,6a+


To get to the outlying areas, Desplomlandia and Campillos Gorge, you neada car. To get to Desplomlandia:Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After a tour in a fantasticsurrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right.Continue to the next T-junction, hold right again and soon you will pass the barwhere you take right if you are heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass the barand continue. The landscape here is different from El Chorro, you have a biglake on your left. After a couple of kilometers Desplomlandia turns up on yourright hand just under a mast.To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-junction you take left in the direction of Campillos and Teba. Follow signpostsin the direction of Teba. Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a bridge,on the other side you will see a farm to the left. Park, cross the road and walkdown to the riverbed where you find the crag.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

29.2. Outlying area, Campillos Gorge Take me to the West side

East50 m.


Ardales

Teba

Desplomlandia

El Chorro

Campillos Gorge

Big caveon sepatateTOPO

Entrance, abseil

1 2,3,4,5 76

3

2

54

11,1210

98

13

12

15

201918

1716 2524

232221

14

1 ? 8a2 ? 4,43 ? 7b4 Amarreto de Canto 7a5 ? ?6 Cudain 6b+7 Gasofa 6a+8 ? 6b+9 ? 6b10 Pasta de basta 5,511 Introducion al tema 412 La Costurera 6b+13 Gorilla 7a14 Ritual Habitual 7a15 House of pain ?16 Lavialatua de mach ?17 Nequaquam Vacuum ?18 El Guru 7a19 Putas fever 6b+

20 Violento express 7c21 Karo Shi 7c22 Arende notivo rea 7b+23 Posey-don 7b+24 Historia de una chica mala 8a25 Kamikaze ?


To get to the outlying areas, Desplomlandia and Campillos Gorge, you neada car. To get to Desplomlandia:Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After a tour in a fantasticsurrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right.Continue to the next T-junction, hold right again and soon you will pass the barwhere you take right if you are heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass the bar andcontinue. The landscape here is different from El Chorro, you have a big lake onyour left. After a couple of kilometers Desplomlandia turns up on your right handjust under a mast.To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-junction you take left in the direction of Campillos and Teba. Follow signpostsin the direction of Teba. Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a bridge,on the other side you will see a farm to the left. Park, cross the road and walkdown to the riverbed where you find the crag. The easy way to get to the caveis to walk back over the bridge from the car park and then turn right, you will finda hole to abseil down to the bottom of the cave.

Refugio

Hotel

P

P

DirectionAlóra

DirectionArdales

Lakereservoir

P

Refugio


DirectionTeba

Albercones



El Corral


Santimonia


Los Venenos

Juaja Africa

Cerro Cristo

Verdonia

El Recodo

Mustapha

AcuarioZeppelin

Los Cotos

El Polvorin

El Makinodromo


Sector Escenario


Las Baneras

Sector Brasil

PetitDesfiladero

Sector Caliza

P

Albercones


Los Venenos

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