duck, duck, goose by hank shaw - recipes

7/29/2019 Duck, Duck, Goose by Hank Shaw - Recipes

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CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

BASICS

From Market to Table: Breeds, Buying, Breaking Down, and Storing

From Marsh to Table: Wild Species, Field Care, Hanging, and Processing

Cooking with Duck: Flavors and Wine and Beer Pairings

WHOLE BIRDS

PIECES

Breasts

Legs and Wings

EXTRAS

Giblets

CharcuterieDuck Fat

Duck Eggs

STOCK, GLACE, AND CONSOMM

SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

INDEX

1

6

12

22

58

106

152

172203

211

230

231

232

CONTENTS


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44 DUCK, DUCK, GOOSE

SMOKED DUCK WITH LENTILS

This is an elegant way to serve slices of smoked duck. Chanterelles are a winter mushroom

on the West Coast, so it is a natural pairing here. In other parts of the country, Id suggest

shiitake mushrooms, which are available year-round. Regular button mushrooms will

do in a pinch.

Beluga lentils, which are tiny and black, are my favorite: they are prettier, firmer, and

nuttier than regular green lentils. You can substitute green lentils if you like, but yellowor red lentils will dissolve.

3 cups Basic Duck Stock (page 222) or chicken stock

Kosher salt

1 cup beluga lentils

8 ounces chanterelle mushrooms, coarsely chopped

3 tablespoons duck fat or olive oil

1 Smoked Duck (page 41), carved

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon cider vinegar cup Duck Glace de Viande (page 226), or 1 cup

Basic Duck Stock (page 222) reduced to cup

1 teaspoon prepared mustard

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Minced fresh chives, for garnish

In a saucepan, bring the stock to a simmer and taste for

salt. If you are using store-bought chicken stock, you

wont need to add salt. Add the lentils and adjust the

temperature so the stock is just steaming, not simmering.

Cover the pan and let the lentils cook for about 30 min-

utes, until they are tender but still hold their shape.

Meanwhile, place a large saut pan over medium-high

heat. When it is hot, add the chanterelles, shaking the

pan as they go in. Let the mushrooms sear in the dry

pan for 2 to 3 minutes, until they give off their water,

then sprinkle with salt. Bring to a boil and boil for 2 to

5 minutes, until most of the water evaporates. Add

2 tablespoons of the duck fat and toss to coat the mush-

rooms. Sear until they begin to brown, then remove

with a slotted spoon.

Add the remaining 1 tablespoon duck fat to the pan and

lay the smoked duck pieces, skin side down, in the hot

pan. Sear until the skin crisps, about 3 minutes. Transfer

the duck, skin side up, to a cutting board.

Add the garlic to the pan and saut for 1 minute. Mix

in the vinegar,glace de viande, mustard, and Worcestershire

sauce and boil down by half. Turn off the heat.

Drain the lentils and put them in a bowl. Mix in the

chanterelles to half of the sauce in the saut pan. Spoon

some lentils onto each plate, arrange some of the duck

pieces on the lentils, then top with the chives. Drizzle

the remaining sauce around everything and serve.

DIFFICULTY:

SERVES 4

PREP TIME: 10 MINUTES

COOK TIME: 35 MINUTES


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LAOTIAN DUCK SALAD

This is larb, one of the most famous dishes of Southeast Asia. It is a spectacular hot-weather

salad, normally served with beef, chicken, or seafood. Duck larbdoes exist, however, in

Laos, Cambodia, and Thailand. The list of ingredients is long, but the hardest part about

making this recipe is chopping the herbs and vegetables. Its really that easy.

2 tablespoons short-grain white rice

1 to 2 pounds skinless duck breasts

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons duck fat or vegetable oil

1 cup loosely packed chopped fresh cilantro

1 cup loosely packed chopped fresh mint

1 lemongrass stalk, white bulblike part only,

trimmed, outer leaves discarded, and minced

2 large shallots, thinly sliced

3 green onions, white and green parts, thinly sliced2 cloves garlic, minced

1 to 4 small fresh hot chiles, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons peeled and grated fresh ginger

Grated zest and juice of 1 lime

1 tablespoon fsh sauce or soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

In a small, dry saut pan over medium-high heat, toast

the rice, shaking the pan often, for 4 to 5 minutes, until

it browns. Pour onto a plate to cool, then grind coarsely

in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle. Ready the

remaining ingredients.

Pat the duck breasts dry with paper towels. In a large

saut pan, heat the duck fat over medium-high heat for

1 minute. Add the breasts skinned side down and sear

for 3 minutes. Flip and finish cooking according to your

liking, using the finger test for doneness (see page 61)and salting to taste. Transfer the duck to a cutting board

and let rest for 15 minutes.

While the duck rests, in a bowl, combine the ground

rice, cilantro, mint, lemongrass, shallots, green onions,

garlic, chiles to taste, ginger, lime zest and juice, fish

sauce, sugar, and sesame oil and mix well.

When the duck is ready, you can either slice or mince

it; mincing is more traditional. Add the duck, plus any

accumulated juices, to the bowl holding the rest of

the salad and mix well. Serve with an ice-cold lageror pilsner.

DIFFICULTY:

SERVES 4


COOK TIME: 8 MINUTES


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2 DUCK, DUCK, GOOSE

BASIC DUCK STOCK

This is my standard duck or goose stock. It is the stock that I call for in the recipes in

this book. In other words, you need to make lots. Every time you get a carcass, save it for

stock. If you dont have a lot of ducks around at one time, save them up for future rounds

of stock making. You can chop up the carcasses before freezing, so they take up less space.

Make this stock when you have a day off, as it takes all day. The good news is that you

will be rewarded with 4 quarts or more of rich stock that is a perfect base for stews,

soups, or wintertime risottos or polentaor even eaten on its own as a clear soup.

c f 4 6 wld d, 2 3 wld g,

1 2 d d g, nldng wng p,

n, nd nnd (n lv), f pl

Vegetable oil, for coating

Kosher salt

1 pigs foot or 20 duck or chicken feet (optional)

1 lg yllw w nn, ppd

1 large carrot, sliced

2 celery stalks, chopped

4 lv gl, ppd

ounce (about 1 handful) dried mushrooms (any kind)

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

1 tablespoon juniper berries (optional)

3 y lv

1 large sprig rosemary

Tops from 1 fennel bulb (optional)

s f 1 n -lf ply, ppd

10 f g lv, ppd

1 tablespoon dried or fresh thyme

Coat the carcasses and various bird bits with oil. Salt

them well and put in a large roasting pan. Put in the

oven, turn on the oven to 400F, and roast for about

1 hour, until well browned.

Meanwhile, score the pigs foot all over, or chop the duck

feet with a cleaver or other heavy knife, to break the skinand expose the joints and bones. There is collagen in the

feet that will seep into the water and give the finished

stock more body.

When the carcasses are ready, remove them from the

oven and chop them into large pieces with heavy kitchen

shears or a cleaver. This will make it possible to fit them

all into your stockpot. Transfer them to a large stockpot

and add the feet. Pour in cold water to cover everything

by about 1 inch. Turn the heat to medium, bring to a

bare simmer, and cook very gently for 2 to 8 hours. Do

not let this boil.

Meanwhile, put the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic in

the roasting pan and stir to coat with the fat that has

rendered from the duck bits. If you are using domestic

ducks or fatty wild ones, you may have too much fat: if

you have a pool of fat at the bottom of the roasting pan,

drain off all but about 3 tablespoons. You can strain the

fat and reuse it (its great for roasting potatoes). Put the

vegetables in the oven and roast for about 45 minutes,

until browned.

DIFFICULTY:

makes about 6 quarts


cook time: 6 hours


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SMOKED DUCK

Those who know their way around a smoker know that fat is a critical element in this

process. Fat absorbs the flavor of the smoke better than the meat itself. This is why you

see lots of recipes for smoked pork and salmon; both are fatty animals. So are waterfowl.

You need to decide whether to brine or not. Both methods work. Brining a duck,

especially if you use curing salt (a mixture of salt and sodium nitrite), will help preserve

the bird longer in the fridge and will let you smoke it longer and cooler without drying

out the meat. If you are skipping the brine, simply salt the duck or goose well, let it rest

at room temperature for a few hours before smoking, and pat it dry before you put it in

the smoker. Its vital that you start with a room-temperature duck.

As for flavors, I am in love with the combination of smoke, duck, salt, and maple. I

need no other flavors in my life, but honey would be good, as would a Cajun rub, some-

thing vaguely Indian, chiles, French quatre pices, and so on. Use your imagination. As for

wood, I am a big fan of fruit or nut woods, like apple, pecan, hickory, or walnut. Oak and

beech are fine, but mesquite is too strong for duck.

If you have a smoker, just follow the directions that came with it to set it up and

smoke your duck. If you have only a kettle grill, you can turn it into a smoker followinga handful of relatively simple steps (page 43).

Thinly sliced on the diagonal, smoked duck is fantastic as part of an appetizer plate or

in a sandwich. You can also carve a whole breast, sear the skin side in a frying pan until

it crisps again, and serve it with polenta or lentils (page 44).

Beware: If you are buying a domest ic duck, read the package. Some are plumped with a salt

solution of up to 12 percent, so they are essentially prebrined. Do not brine these birds a second t ime.

Prebrined domestic birds also need longer drying t ime.

1 domesticated duck or wild goose, or 2 fat wild ducks

BRINE

cup kosher salt

1 teaspoon Insta Cure No. 1 (see page 196), optional

4 cups water

1 cup maple syrup

If you are using a domesticated duck or goose, remove as

much of the fat from inside the body cavity and around

the neck as possible. Set the fat aside to use later. Whether

using a domesticated duck or fatty wild ducks, pierce

the skin all over with a clean needle or the tip of a sharpknife, positioning the tool at an angle so that you are

piercing just the skin and not the meat. This helps the

rendered fat to escape. Cut off the neck skin about 1 inch

from the breast meat.

To make the brine, in a container just large enough to

hold the duck, stir together the kosher salt, curing salt,

and water until the salts dissolve. Place the duck in the

brine, cover the container, and brine in the refrigerator

for 4 to 12 hours. You may need to top it with a weight

to keep it submerged.

Remove the duck from the brine, pat it dry with paper

towels, and set it on a cooling rack under a fan or in a

cool, breezy place. Let the duck air-dry for 2 to 3 hours.

Dont skip this step, or the smoke will not adhere to theduck well.

DIFFICULTY:

SERVES 4

PREP TIME: 6 TO 14 HOURS,

PRIMARILY BRINING AND

DRYING TIME

COOK TIME: 4 TO 7 HOURS

WHoLe BIrDS

cntinud


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While the bird is air-drying, pour the maple syrup into

a small, heavy saucepan, place over medium-high heat,

bring to a boil, and boil until reduced by half. This

should take about 8 to 12 minutes. Let cool to room

temperature.

When the duck is dry, paint the exterior of the bird with

some of the maple syrup. Set the remainder of the syrup

aside to use later. Set up your smoker with a drip pan,

then set the bird in the smoker with the drip pan beneath

it. Put the excess fat from the body cavity into the drip

pan. This will render as you smoke the duck, yielding

smoked duck fat mixed with maple drippings, which

may just be the greatest substance known to man.

Smoke the duck between 200F and 275F for 4 to

7 hours, depending on how smoky you want your bird.Baste the duck with the maple syrup every 45 minutes

to an hour. If you smoke at the low end of the spectrum,

the skin will not be crispy but the meat will be more

tender; you can crisp the skin in a saut pan before serv-

ing. You will know the duck is done when a thermom-

eter stuck in the thigh reads 170F to 175F, or when

the leg meat begins to come away from the bone.

Allow the duck to cool before carving (see page 32).

cntinud fm pvius pag

TIPS FOR SMOKING WILD BIRDS

Any dmstic duck can b smkd with succss.

If yu a using wild bids, h a sm guidlins:

Dnt smk sa ducks, divs, shvls yu

think might b shy. Smking will nt hlp yu.

Skin ths bids and d smthing ls with thm.

Avid smking snw gs any th wild

bid that is b-lan. Yu nd sm fat t

mak smking wk. evn a littl is kay.

Nv smk a skinnd duck. rmmb, th

smky av lings in skin and fat fa m than

it ds in mat. If yu smk a skinnd duck, it

will b m lik jky and lss l ik a pp

smkd duck.

Smking whl bids givs yu btt sults

than pics, s I gnally smk nly whl

bids; gs lgs a an xcptin. Yu can

cav whl bids aftwad.

Big ducks smk btt than small ducks, althugh

th is n asn yu cant smk a tal.


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Some of the recipes in this book include raw eggs. When eggs are consumed

raw, there is always the risk that bacteria, which is killed by proper cooking,

may be present. For this reason, always buy certified salmonella-free eggs

from a reliable grocer, storing them in the refrigerator until they are served.

Because of the health risks associated with the consumption of bacteria that

can be present in raw eggs, they should not be consumed by infants, small

children, pregnant women, the elderly, or any persons who may be immuno-

compromised. The author and publisher expressly disclaim responsibility for

any adverse effects that may result from the use or application of the recipes

and information contained in this book.

Copyright 2013 by Hank Shaw

Photographs copyright 2013 by Holly A. Heyser

All rights reserved.Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of

the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.

www.crownpublishing.com

www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are

registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Shaw, Hank, 1970-

Duck, duck, goose : recipes and techniques for cooking ducks and geese,

both wild and domesticated / Hank Shaw.

pages cm

1. Cooking (Duck) 2. Cooking (Goose) 3. Cooking (Game) I. Title.TX750.5.D82S53 2013

641.691dc23

2012046940

Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-60774-529-7

eBook ISBN: 978-1-60774-530-3

Printed in China

Design by Sarah Adelman

Food and prop styling by Hank Shaw and Holly A. Heyser

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition

FOR HOLLYmy duck hunting buddy, photographer,

guinea pig, and most of all, my best friend.


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