Download - THE MANU REP 11 - Birding & Wildlife Tours, Cruises

1 Birdquest: The Manu 20011

THE MANU

23 JULY – 13 AUGUST 2011

TOUR REPORT

LEADER: MATT DENTON The 2011 tour was once again very enjoyable trip with a long list of avian and mammal highlights. A chilly friaje hit the Manu lowlands during our visit but thankfully it did not deter too much from our birding and the cooler temperatures allowed us to spend full days in the field. Our total list of 666 bird species included some very lucky finds including a trio of Ornate Tinamou in the highlands; both White-throated Tinamou and Rufous-breasted Wood-Quail on night-roosts during our night walks; a Black-and-chestnut Eagle fly-by while having lunch at Acjanaco; an adult Ornate Hawk-Eagle perched low above the trail; the endemic Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch at a new site; Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan spotted on an exposed perch; having 14 Military Macaws fly past as we watched a Lanceolated Monklet through the scope; a pair of deafening Blackish Rails seen point-blank; an Amazonian Antpitta standing stock-still for all to see; two separate sightings of Long-tailed Potoo, and much more. We also did quite well with the specialty bamboo birds of the area seeing Rufous-breasted Piculet, Peruvian Recurvebill, Brown-rumped Foliage-gleaner, Ihering’s Antwren, Long-crested Pygmy-Tyrant, White-cheeked Tody-Tyrant and others. More highlights included Bartlett’s and Cinereous Tinamous, Pale-winged Trumpeter, Agami Heron, Yungas Pygmy-Owl, White-browed Hermit, Peruvian Piedtail, Rufous-crested and Festive Coquettes, Black-capped (Rock) Parakeet at a forest clay-lick, Banded Antbird, Black-spotted Bare-eye, Black-backed Tody-Flycatcher, Hazel-fronted Pygmy-Tyrant (a Birdquest lifer), Unadorned Flycatcher, and Semicollared and Black-streaked Puffbirds. There was the spectacle of the parrot and macaw clay licks including the Blue-headed Macaw lick; fabulous nightbirds such as Swallow-tailed and Lyre-tailed Nightjars as well as Ocellated Poorwill; Round-tailed Manakins at their lek; a furtive Musician Wren showing to all while responding with its incredible song; two duelling Bearded Mountaineers over a flower patch; a Point-tailed Palmcreeper trying to claim his place as the best-ever; and the family of Inca Wrens that made our visit to Machu Picchu so perfect. Mammal highlights included South American Coati, a large herd of White-lipped Peccaries, Common Woolly-Monkey, Peruvian Spider Monkey, Kinkajou and even a Jaguarundi for some. The Manu is a classic Neotropical destination featuring some of the continent’s best known birding lodges. These lodges make travel in this wilderness area a quite enjoyable adventure into the world’s most diverse rainforest accessible to birders. The level of comfort on this tour often comes as a surprise to participants as they sit back in a comfortable seat under the shaded roof of our longboat


watching the rainforest pass by. Some of our lodges featured generator-powered electricity but we also enjoyed many candlelight meals of tasty Peruvian cuisine, together with pisco sours and cold beer to add to the camaraderie of being in such a special place. Breakfast at the macaw clay-lick, catamarans rides on oxbow lakes, amazingly built canopy platforms, and well-maintained trails are all part of the Manu experience. Many of the forest birds are quite shy but surprises are always around every corner. Manu’s altitudinal transect ranging from the arid highlands down to the steamy lowlands around Puerto Maldonado ensured a steady procession of new birds for us as we explored the wonders of Peru’s department of Madre de Dios (mother of god). The tour began with dinner and a good night’s rest in Miraflores before returning to Lima’s new Jorge Chavez International for our flight to Cusco the following morning. Our flight over the Andes went smoothly and after picking up our bags we stepped out into the blinding light of Cusco and the air was thin and we were just soaking it all in. Once we arrived at nearby Huacarpay Lake, we stopped at our first patch of wild tobacco flowers that was not so good but we had our first Sharp-winged Teal (split from Speckled) and Yellow-billed Pintail as well as a Plumbeous Rail and a White-browed Chat-Tyrant perched on the fence. Then the morning revved up a gear when we found a flowering bush with a perched Bearded Mountaineer. Suddenly there were two male mountaineers in a mid-aerial clash and perching well enough for us to appreciate their indescribably iridescent beard-like gorgets. However, our next spot brought us down to earth with a drawn out battle to see several Rusty-fronted Canasteros who would not show at this particular spot. Not to worry as we were soon enjoying them dripping from the thorn scrub just around the bend. Here in the arid vegetation we also saw Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, White-crested Elaenia, and Andean Flicker. In the reeds surrounding the lake we saw Wren-like Rushbird, Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant, and Yellow-winged Blackbird along with a flock of Grassland Yellow-Finches. After our pleasant picnic lunch overlooking the lake we enjoyed superb views of a pair of Streak-fronted Thornbirds resting and preening on a low branch. Then suddenly a courting pair of Aplomado Falcons appeared overhead to go with our good views of Bare-faced Ground-Doves, Golden-billed Saltator and Blue-and-yellow Tanager. On and around the lake itself there were Andean Lapwings, Andean Gull, Slate-coloured Coots, Puna and Cinnamon Teals, Ruddy Duck, White-tufted Grebe and Puna Ibis. Both a Chilean Flamingo and White-cheeked Pintail were recorded which are both somewhat uncommon visitors to the lake. Afterwards we stopped in briefly at Tipón to have a look for mountain-finches but instead saw lots of Peruvian, Mourning, and Ash-breasted Sierra-Finches amidst this splendid Incan site. The next morning we left early after breakfast for the highlands taking a different route than usual to the Manu road due to road construction. Our journey took us through several Andean towns including the famous market town of Pisac. We were going to have to find a new site for the endemic Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch as our new route did not pass our usual stake-out. Thankfully our first stop in suitable looking habitat yielded a fine result rather quickly with all of us getting a good view of the handsome endemic mountain-finch. We continued to work our way up seeing Mountain Caracaras, Spot-winged Pigeons, and interesting furnariids such as Slender-billed Miner and Cream-winged Cinclodes (split from Bar-winged). However, probably our best sighting was a trio of Ornate Tinamous flushed from near the road which provided excellent views. Moving ever closer to Manu, we birded a series of isolated inter-Andean valleys where we saw the endemic Creamy-crested Spinetail and had our first taste of humid vegetation birds such as Mitred Parakeet and the lovely Crimson-mantled Woodpecker as we approached the east slope. Reaching the pass at Acjanaco (3560mts), we had lunch at the Sven Ericson monument where we were fortunate to have a Black-and-chestnut Eagle pass in close flight for an added bonus. Here we also saw Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant before walking the road down through the elfin vegetation. Great Thrush was common and we had good views of Hooded and Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanagers, and Moustached and Black-throated Flowerpiercers. A Puna Thistletail was seen by some of our group and hummers included Chestnut-breasted Coronet and Violet-throated Starfrontlet. The most memorable bird of the afternoon by far was a very cooperative Yungas Pygmy-Owl which we were able to enjoy at length


perched near the road. We arrived in the late afternoon at our accommodation at the research station of Wayqecha, glad that we did not have to camp as in previous years. The next morning we started out pre-dawn with a walk near the station where after a bit of a wait we enticed a superb male Swallow-tailed Nightjar to rest on the path for prolonged views. As it got light we continued birding along the road where a group of Bolivian (Southern Mountain) Caciques was the highlight. After breakfast we continued birding along the station enjoying excellent sightings of Long-tailed Sylph, Tyrian Metaltail and Rufous-capped Thornbill. Then we walked down one of the station trails where activity was somewhat low due to the hot sun but nevertheless there were some quality birds here with Amethyst-throated Sunangel, Black-throated Tody-Tyrant, Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant, White-winged Black-Tyrant, Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant, Golden-browed Chat-Tyrant, White-collared Jay and Grass-green Tanager. We did our best to see a Red-and-white Antpitta but only a few of us managed to get a good view. It was still only mid-morning as we continued birding down the road through the upper temperate forest seeing Chestnut-collared and White-collared Swifts, Red-crested Cotinga and Barred Fruiteater. This upper section of the Manu road makes for very enjoyable birding as you walk along the road through good forest with trees covered in lots of epiphytes and luxurious ground cover fed by the numerous streams and waterfalls in an amazing landscape. A bit of cloud began to form which was good for mixed flock activity in which we found Pearled Treerunner, Streaked Tuftedcheek, Montane Woodcreeper, Sierran Elaenia, White-banded and White-throated Tyrannulets, Streak-necked Flycatcher, Superciliaried Hemispingus and Spectacled Redstart. We also had good luck with some star birds such as Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan, Marcapata Spinetail, and Short-billed (Yellow-whiskered) Bush-Tanager. We ended up spending nearly the entire day concentrating on the upper temperate forest seeing Masked Trogon, Trilling Tapaculo, Inca, Handsome and Cinnamon Flycatchers, Mountain Wren, Glossy-black Thrush, Blue-capped, Golden-naped and Blue-and-black Tanagers, Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Capped Conebill, Masked Flowerpiercer, Black-faced Brush-Finch, and Pale-legged Warbler. Other good specialty birds seen well included Fulvous Wren and Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager. One of the day’s many highlights was watching a quite large (12 or more) family of South American Coati dash across the road. Just when we thought they had all crossed many seconds would pass and another would dart across as if each were nervously awaiting to go down in the line of fire. As we descended to Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge we still continued to pick up new species such as White-crowned Tapaculo, Gould’s Inca (split from Collared), Highland Motmot and Maroon-chested Chat-Tyrant, in what resulted in a very bird-filled day. Some of us had our first taste (or two) of Peru’s (Lima’s, actually) famous pisco sour tonight… The next morning we started out near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge located at 1600 m/5200 ft elevation at the nearby hide which previously overlooked a very active lek of displaying Andean Cock-of-the-Rocks. It was obvious that last year’s landslide had taken away a huge swathe of forest here forcing the fittest of the males to move house. However, at least one male was still revisiting the original lek which allowed us to see just how frantic these guys are to attract a female! The lodge has been around since the late 90s when the conservation group that runs it converted their research station into the present lodge. The Rio Kosñipata runs just below creating a wide valley that stretches for many kilometres through which the road was built. As this area lies outside the park, thanks to the Cock-of-the-Rock’s conservation group’s land purchase, nearly the entire Rio Kosñipata valley was saved from destruction when it was formally made a private reserve. We spent most of the morning birding the lodge trails and garden where the feeders and flowers attracted Green Violetear, Booted Racket-tail, Violet-fronted Brilliant and Many-spotted Hummingbird. Highlights from our efforts along the trails included Olive Flycatcher, a very cooperative Slaty Gnateater and a likewise obliging Yungas Manakin. Other highlights from the Rio Kosñipata valley included Plumbeous Pigeon, Versicoloured Barbet, Streaked Xenops, Olive-backed and Montane Woodcreepers, Stripe-chested Antwren, Grey-mantled Wren, White-capped Dipper and Black-eared Hemispingus. The tanager flocks here are always good as long as it is not too sunny and thankfully we had an overcast day which made for regular sightings of Paradise, Orange-eared, Blue-necked, Beryl-spangled, Saffron-


crowned, Golden and Spotted Tanagers. There was also a good sighting of the uncommon Golden-eared Tanager. Other more common birds included Green Honeycreeper, Slate-throated Redstart, Three-striped Warbler, Dusky-green Oropendola and Orange-bellied Euphonia. After lunch we drove up in elevation to the Rocotal area where we saw some new hummers such as Violet-throated Starfrontlet and White-bellied Woodstar and enjoyed some overall good activity which included Golden-headed Quetzal and Blue-banded Toucanet and a couple of really exciting tyrant flycatchers, namely Unadorned Flycatcher and Hazel-fronted Pygmy-Tyrant. There were other good birds this afternoon which included Montane Foliage-gleaner, Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher, Slaty Tanager, Black-goggled Tanager, Yellow-throated Tanager and Olivaceous Siskin. Earlier in the afternoon we had stopped to see a day-roosting female Lyre-tailed Nightjar which was perched on a thatch roof near the road. Later that evening we waited until dusk for a spectacular show given by a displaying male Lyre-tailed Nightjar which proved to be one of the trip highlights. This morning we made a pre-dawn attempt for Rufescent Screech-Owl instead finding a roosting pair of Rufous-breasted Wood-Quail balanced on a branch over the road. This was a truly spectacular find and totally unexpected. Afterwards we birded the lower part of the valley where we encountered a totally new suite of birds which included Bluish-fronted Jacamar, Cabanis’s Spinetail, Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner, Red-billed Scythebill, Chestnut-backed Antshrike, Stripe-chested Antwren, Yellow-breasted Antwren, Yellow-breasted Warbling-Antbird, Slaty-capped and Lemon-browed Flycatchers, the recently-described Cinnamon-faced Tyrannulet, Olive-striped Flycatcher, Two-banded and Golden-bellied Warblers, and Blue-naped Chlorophonia. We also had our first look at some of the more common lowland birds such as Turkey Vulture, Double-toothed Kite, Roadside Hawk, Squirrel Cuckoo, Smooth-billed Ani, Streaked Flycatcher and Tropical Kingbird. Our struggle with Dusky-cheeked Foliage-gleaner was more than compensated for later in the morning with sightings of 14 Military Macaws, walk-away views of Lanceolated Monklet, Peruvian Piedtail at a lek, a male Yellow-crested Tanager, and very good views of Olive Finch. We were back at the lodge for lunch adding Wedge-billed and Speckled Hummingbirds to our list as well as Yellow-bellied Seedeater. Then in the afternoon we were back up the road this time seeing the much-wanted Bolivian Tyrannulet as well as Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant, Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager and Deep-blue Flowerpiercer. Sadly, our hoped for Crested Quetzal was heard-only too far out of reach below the road. Saying goodbye to our hosts at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge we continued down the Manu road starting out the day with Scaly-naped Parrot and later we saw more Military Macaws. Soon bamboo became prominent along the roadsides where we had good luck in seeing Bamboo Antshrike perched up and we did our best to see a restless pair of Ornate Antwrens. Then we walked up a very muddy path up into the spiny bamboo where those that persevered had good views of Ruddy Foliage-gleaner. A Peruvian Recurvebill suddenly called which drew us further in. Although the recurvebill moved off all too quickly, we did have good views of the endemic Black-backed Tody-Flycatcher here as well as Pale-tailed Barbthroat. We then managed to get the tody-flycatcher to show superbly a second time to the entire group. Shortly after it was pretty much too hot for most birds and we had to content ourselves with some of the common roadside birds such as Swallow-tailed Kite, Ruddy Pigeon, Blue-crowned Trogon, Magpie Tanager and Russet-backed and Crested Oropendolas. We enjoyed a fairly birdy lunch despite the heat with a soaring Black Hawk-Eagle, Fork-tailed Palm-Swift, Dark-breasted Spinetail (for some), Montane Foliage-gleaner, Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet and Bran-coloured and Short-crested Flycatchers. A migrant Large Elaenia was a nice find and a White-browed Hermit put in a brief appearance for some. The highlight though was surely the pair of Blackish Rails that showed at such close-quarter, standing and calling loudly in the shade of some overhanging vegetation. After lunch and our last bit of shopping in Pilcopata, we made our way down to Atalaya over the fairly rough road. On this very warm afternoon we had our first introduction to Amazonian birds with the likes of Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Blue-headed Parrot, Chestnut-capped Puffbird, White-browed Antbird, Flammulated Pygmy-Tyrant (for some), Johannes’s Tody-Tyrant, Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher, Great Kiskadee, Grey-capped and Boat-billed Flycatchers, White-winged Becard, Red-


eyed Vireo and Purplish Jay. Eventually we got to a stream crossing that our very comfortable city bus could not manage but thankfully we had pre-arranged to hitch a ride to Atalaya on an empty tour bus that picked us up. Our river transfer to Amazonia Lodge went off without a hitch allowing us to walk into the lodge clearing just at dusk as the Hoatzins started jumping. After settling in we all enjoyed a pisco sour welcome-drink to go with our checklist session under the electric light powered by the lodge’s own hydroelectric supply. We enjoyed two full days to bird the trails and garden of Amazonía Lodge. The area around the lodge is regenerated floodplain forest after the lodge owners decided to convert their tea plantation into a birding lodge. This decision based on the advice of visiting ornithologists from the Field Museum of Chicago in 1983. On our first morning we started out in the lodge clearing with Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper before venturing out along the jeep track where we had good luck in seeing Grey-necked Wood-Rail and both Undulated and Cinereous Tinamous; understorey skulkers like Amazonian Antpitta, Rusty-belted Tapaculo and Black-faced Antthrush; and a good collection of antbirds that included Plain-winged and Bluish-slate Antshrikes, Chestnut-tailed and Goeldi’s. A rain shower sent us back to the clearing for a bit but the gardens are always a pleasurable place to enjoy from the mahogany veranda watching the hummers visit the feeders and vervain: White-necked Jacobin, Black-throated Mango, Rufous-crested Coquette, Amethyst Woodstar (for some), Blue-tailed Emerald, Grey-breasted Sabrewing, Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Sapphire-spangled Emerald and Golden-tailed Sapphire. A Plain-crowned Spinetail was nesting in one of the vervain hedges and had built an incredible stick nest. We soon returned to the forest seeing Dark-billed and Little Cuckoos, Slender-footed Tyrannulet, Sepia-and Olive-faced Flycatchers, Fiery-capped and Band-tailed Manakins, Violaceous Jay and Hauxwell’s Thrush. After lunch some of us managed to stave off siesta-time drowsiness to watch the Gould’s Jewelfront visiting the feeder. There was always something going on with Speckled Chachalaca, Grey-fronted Dove, Pale-legged Hornero, Red-capped Cardinal and Masked Crimson and Blue-great Tanagers always making the rounds. In the afternoon a Koepcke’s Hermit was certainly the highlight along with Scarlet Macaw, Cobalt-winged Parakeet, Little Cuckoo, Black-tailed Trogon, Black-fronted Nunbird, Chestnut-eared Aracari, Little and Crimson-crested Woodpeckers, Plain Softtail and Thrush-like Wren. The next day we walked up into the hill forest above the lodge where the activity was pretty slow due to the heat but we still came away with some nice birds that included Spix’s Guan, Dusky-billed Parrotlet, Pale-tailed Barbthroat, Rufous-tailed Foliage-gleaner, Rufous-tailed Antwren, Round-tailed Manakin, Tawny-crowned Greenlet, Half-collared Gnatwren and White-winged Shrike-Tanager. Up on the tower there was very little going on but we did have nice views of Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle as well as Scarlet Macaw, Grey-rumped Swift, Opal-rumped and Green-and-gold Tanagers and Black-faced Dacnis. The big surprise was when a Plum-throated Cotinga flew onto a nearby perch as this is normally a floodplain species. That afternoon we took it easy along the Hoatzin clogged oxbow with Band-tailed and Silvered Antbirds and the nearby successional forest where we saw Emerald (Black-throated) Toucanet, Slender-billed Xenops, Plain-brown, Wedge-billed and Black-banded Woodcreepers, Pygmy Antwren, Long-winged and Grey Antwrens and Ringed Antpipit. On our last morning we started out with a Southern Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl that was actually perched too close and after striking out with a Common Potoo we went in for breakfast. We were relieved to connect with a male Fine-barred Piculet after having struggled the previous two days. Nearby we were fortunate to come across an antswarm of sorts attended by the handsome Black-spotted Bare-Eye and the lovely Spot-backed Antbird. Back at the river we picked up Mottle-backed Elaenia and eventually we were all loaded on the boat and headed down the headwaters of the upper Rio Madre de Dios seeing numerous Fasciated Tiger-Herons perched above the stony rapids. During the boat journey of nearly three hours we saw Cocoi, Little Blue and Capped Herons, Great and Snowy Egrets, Blue-and-yellow Macaw, Ringed and Green Kingfishers, Swallow-wing, Drab Water-Tyrant, Bare-necked Fruitcrow and White-banded Swallow and White-winged Swallows. A trio of King Vultures feeding on carrion allowed our boat to come incredibly close, a sighting that was truly remarkable. We also had our first of many Great Black Hawks along the river edge and our second


individual of Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle for the trip. The dainty Yellow-billed Tern was also a regular sight during the journey. Soon the massive Pantiacolla ridge appeared on the horizon and by late morning we had arrived at Pantiacolla Lodge where we would overnight. We wasted little time in heading out on the trails both before and after lunch and were well rewarded. The major highlight of today was our encounter with a family group of Pale-winged Trumpeters. We also enjoyed fabulous sightings of Striolated Puffbird, White-cheeked Tody-Flycatcher and Brown-rumped Foliage-gleaner. Other highlights from today included Great Tinamou, Broad-billed Motmot, Scarlet-hooded Barbet, Rufous-headed Woodpecker (alas, only for some), Striated, Manu and White-lined Antbirds, and Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant. The next morning started off really well with a first-year Long-tailed Potoo on his call perch. After breakfast we visited a nearby clay-lick where we saw several Blue-headed Macaws perched in addition to a nice assortment of other parrots that included White-eyed Parakeet. An added bonus was our first Little Ground-Tyrant of the trip walking along the sandy river bank. Back on the lodge trails we all managed to catch up with a male Scarlet-hooded Barbet as only a few of us saw the one yesterday. This near-endemic is one of the more spectacular specialities of southeast Peru. It became immediately obvious as the morning progressed that a dreaded cold front or friaje had moved into the area dropping both the temperatures and the bird activity. These cold fronts move into the lowlands of south-eastern Peru when austral winter storms push north from southern South America. The forest was much more quiet today but we still managed to have good sightings of Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, Lineated Woodpecker, Cabanis’s Spinetail, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Plain-throated Antwren, and Large-headed and Dusky-tailed Flatbills. We also had an exciting (and smelly) encounter with a herd of at least 50 tooth-clacking White-lipped Peccary including a few large males. Then by late morning we continued downstream on the Rio Madre de Dios towards Boca Manu and the Manu River. The friaje made for a cold and wet journey today with most of us bundled up in our cold weather gear, not exactly the sort of temperatures you expect in the Amazon basin! We were all glad to reach the Manu park guard station by mid-afternoon where we signed in before continuing our journey up the Manu River to the newly opened Romero Rainforest Lodge inside Manu National Park. Some of the river birds seen during the journey included Horned Screamer, Bat Falcon, Pied Lapwing, Collared Plover and Black Skimmer. Everyone was delighted with the accommodation particularly with the gas-heated hot showers and we were eager to get into the surrounding forest given we were the first birders to ever stay there. Most participants had previously looked forward to birding inside the fabled Manu National Park for some time. Over the next two days we did a fairly thorough survey of the connecting trails between Romero and the Limonal ranger station walking around 8 kilometres each day sometimes more. However this distance was manageable thanks to the cool weather of the friaje. We made the most of being in the field each day by having our cook Aurelio together with our boat crew bring out a fine picnic lunch (hot!) to wherever we happened to be in the forest around midday. The forest was a mix of regenerated floodplain with some terra firme and bird diversity appeared to be quite high. One of our favourite sightings of the whole trip was from the lodge clearing where a male White-flanked Antwren sat on a low perch and shivered his wings in time with his song, marvellous! Further afield we saw some goodies in the upland bamboo stands which included Rufous-breasted Piculet, Red-billed Scythebill, Ihering’s Antwren, Long-crested Pygmy-Tyrant, White-cheeked Tody-Tyrant and Brown-rumped Foliage-gleaner. We tried our best to find the newly described Rufous Twistwing but despite our efforts it remains unknown from this particular forest. A Razor-billed Curassow was seen out on the river bank early one morning as we set off in our boat, and in general we were able to see a nice collection of Amazonian birds during our stay at Romero. Highlights included Bartlett’s Tinamou seen on more than one occasion, a superb close-perched Ornate Hawk-Eagle (thanks Martine!), a Banded Antbird on his understorey song perch, fairly common Casqued Oropendolas, a lovely pair of Scale-backed Antbirds, the oddly wonderful Musician Wren and a very cooperative Olive-backed Foliage-gleaner. We looked far and wide along the Romero trails for Black-faced Cotinga in suitable habitat but had nary a sniff probably due to the friaje. The cold temperatures of


the friaje seemed to fluctuate from day to day together with the bird activity but the friaje remained in place for our entire stay. It was hard to say whether it helped or hurt the bird activity but thankfully we had no rain and despite the strange weather we had some wonderful forest birds that also included Spix’s Guan, Amazonian Trogon (split from Violaceous), Cream-coloured and Scaly-breasted Woodpeckers, Purus Jacamar, Rufous-rumped Foliage-gleaner, Lineated, Jurua (split from Elegant), Amazonian Barred and Long-billed Woodcreepers, Dusky-throated and Spot-winged Antshrikes, Grey, Black-faced and Plumbeous Antbird, White-bellied Tody-Tyrant, Golden-crowned Spadebill, Dusky-tailed Flatbill, Greyish Mourner, Dull-capped Attila, Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin, Purple-throated Fruitcrow and Scaly-breasted Wren. We spent quite a bit of time along the forest edges of the extensive oxbow lake habitat, which was a nice break from the small understorey birds (black birds in black holes for some!). This allowed us to enjoy birds like Blue-throated Piping-Guan, Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Limpkin, Wattled Jacana, Pale-vented Pigeon, Laughing Falcon, Rose-fronted Parakeet, White-throated and Channel-billed Toucans, Black-capped Donacobius, Turquoise Tanager, Yellow-bellied Dacnis and Purple Honeycreeper. Even on our last morning near the lodge we continued to see new forest birds and some good ones too: Rufous-capped and Black-faced Antthrushes, Chestnut-shouldered Antwren, Zimmer’s Flycatcher, White-crested Spadebill and Greater Schiffornis. Then it was time to take another river journey, this time just about an hour downriver to sign out at the park’s Limonal ranger station and then drop off our dear friend and cook Aurelio as well as our National Park guide Danny at Boca Manu. Then we made a stop en route to Manu Wildlife Centre to try for our first Rufous-fronted Antthrush, the only problem being that the locals had built a latrine at our stake-out, which had our eyes watering as we tried to see this shy bird. Several of us succeeded in seeing the antthrush despite the stench! Arriving at the Manu Wildlife Centre dock is always a great feeling. We started off by a brief respite in the wonderful bar to enjoy a cold drink of refreshing passion fruit seeing Rufous-breasted and Reddish Hermits visiting the hedge as we received our introduction from the devoted lodge manager Julian. The rest of the afternoon was spent up on the lodge tower about 35 metres above the ground on a platform built in the crown of a giant kapok tree. The view was splendid but the bird activity was very slow. Still, by the end of the day we had seen some nice birds which included White-bearded Hermit, White-chinned Sapphire, Long-billed Starthroat, Festive Coquette, Cinereous Mourner and Masked Tityra. Manu Wildlife Centre has been declared by several publications to be the premier wildlife and birding lodge in the entire Amazon. The lodge chef creates surprisingly good meals despite the remote location. Attractions such as the Blanquillo macaw clay lick, oxbow lakes and two canopy towers in the surrounding area are in addition to the excellent forest birding around the lodge. All this made for a very pleasant five nights stay. We started off by visiting the Blanquillo macaw clay lick on the first day where we enjoyed a really good show provided by around 2000 deafening parrots and parakeets attending the lick as we enjoyed our pancake breakfast and coffee. The sight and sound of a parrot clay lick is an experience every birder should have. The parrots and parakeets consisted mostly of Mealy and Yellow-crowned Amazons, Blue-headed and Orange-cheeked Parrots, and Cobalt-winged and Tui Parakeets. Usually the macaws take their time in coming down to the lick waiting until the parrots leave but instead we had small groups of up to 50 macaws coming down to the lick at regular intervals for over an hour until a couple of raptors, Laughing Falcon and Roadside Hawk appeared, sending the macaws back into the trees. In addition to the parrot show we had two Pale-rumped Swifts in low flight from the enormous hide and passerines included Barred Antshrike, Black-billed and Lesser Seed-Finches, and Chestnut-bellied Seedeater. On the boat journey back along the Rio Madre de Dios we spotted what surprisingly was our first pair of Orinoco Goose before stopping off along the Antthrush trail where some of us again saw the Rufous-fronted Antthrush and we all saw Peruvian Recurvebill with several getting a good view of the bill. Another nice find here in the bamboo was a pair of Rufous-capped Nunlets. Back at the lodge we had lunch and a siesta before exploring the nearby floodplain forest where right away we had a Pavonine Quetzal in the scope for all to see. Not a bad start for our first full-day at the lodge. We also had pretty good luck in seeing Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaner, Long-tailed Woodcreeper, Peruvian Warbling-Antbird and White-necked Thrush.


The next day we visited the nearby oxbow lake of Cocha Camungo where the first activity was to climb up one of the most impressive canopy towers in all of Amazonia. The tower itself is rigid thanks to its cement foundation which is reassuring as you climb 50 metres up into a truly massive kapok tree. We spent a couple of hours here watching the forest wake up. Eastern Sirystes, Swainson’s Flycatcher and a White-browed Purpletuft perching in our tree were especially nice as were our views of Pale-rumped Swift. We were quite surprised when a pair of Orange-backed Troupials arrived in our tree crown and proceeded to attack a colony of Yellow-rumped Caciques. The colony nests were quite close to our platform so we could see in detail everything that happened including the yolks dripping from the nests as the troupials eventually succeeded in breaking the eggs of nearly all the nests in the cacique colony much to their dismay. No doubt the alpha-male cacique of the colony had to step down from his position in disgrace, some defender he was! By midmorning we descended for a ride around the oxbow on the catamaran thanks to the strong paddling of Elias and Justino. Short-tailed Hawk and a Grey-headed Kite in low soaring flight were admired; both Rufous-sided and Grey-breasted Crakes were seen (“no, not that crake, the other one!”); and oxbow specialties such as Pale-eyed Blackbird and Black-billed Seed-Finch showed well. That afternoon we walked out to the lodge’s mammal clay lick hoping to see a tapir as well as any nightbirds we could find. Our walk featured such terra firme birds as White-fronted Nunbird, Gilded Barbet, Golden-collared Toucanet, Pink-throated Becard and Sooty Antbird. Once at the mammal clay lick we settled into our individual mosquito net covered mattresses with several of us drifting off to the sounds of the rainforest as night descended. The moon was quite bright this evening which usually deters the tapirs from venturing into the clay lick so we eventually called it quits and tried instead to see the calling Silky-tailed Nightjar. We gave it a good effort; even going off trail in the dark, but the forest understorey was impenetrable, preventing us from approaching the nightjar. However, all was not in vain as our torch light settled onto a White-throated Tinamou on its night roost! On the way back we saw our second Long-tailed Potoo of the tour, and eventually we got our spotlight on a singing male Ocellated Poorwill. We were also successful in calling in a Crested Owl to a high perch to conclude an overall successful night walk. Over the next two days we mostly concentrated on the forest trails at Manu Wildlife Centre. A return visit to the canopy tower was again slow with Turquoise, Opal-crowned and Green-and-gold Tanagers providing the most entertainment. Meanwhile Gill and Gwen who had opted out shared an intimate encounter with a Pale-winged Trumpeter feeding on fallen figs. In the floodplain forest we continued to add new birds with Eastern Woodhaunter, White-throated Antbird, Euler’s and Ruddy-tailed Flycatchers and Screaming Piha (finally seen well). We spent most of our last day in the terra firme where we had excellent views of Dusky-billed Parrotlet and Black-capped Parakeet visiting the mammal lick. Other good birds included Needle-billed Hermit, Great Jacamar, Semicollared Puffbird, a superb group of Curl-crested Aracari, Red-stained and Golden-green Woodpeckers, Chestnut-winged Hookbill and Blue-backed Manakin (here of the yellow-crowned regina race). One of the tour highlights was our visit to Cocha Blanco where we saw an amazing collection of waterbirds in only a couple of hours. One moment we shall not soon forget was seeing Agami Heron, Sungrebe and Sunbittern all within a span of about 20 minutes! We had good views of lots of other birds we had already seen like Limpkin, Horned Screamer, Green Ibis, White-throated and Channel-billed Toucans, Red-capped Cardinal, Lesser Kiskadee and others. The afternoon light on the forest was superb particularly when perfectly illuminated White-bellied Parrots arched across our view. All too quickly our time in Manu drew to a close as we looked forward to the hustle-and-bustle of civilization on the morrow. With the high price of gold causing a gold rush in Peru, rich local miners flush with cash occupy most charter flights out of the Peruvian rainforest these days, not ecotourists. Thankfully our local operator had a well-devised transfer planned for us that began with a three hour boat trip downriver to the town of Boca Colorado where we transferred to a caravan of 4x4 taxis which took us to the Rio Inambari. There a speedboat took us to the other side where an air-conditioned bus was waiting for


us. The bus’s cold air certainly felt good as we made our way along the new tarmac of the Transoceanic highway which now connects Brazil to the Peruvian coast. By mid-afternoon we had arrived in Puerto Maldonado where we stopped to bird some gallery forest quickly connecting with a pair of White-throated Jacamars. Here we were also glad to see Ash-coloured Cuckoo and Gilded Barbet before retreating to the air-conditioned comfort of our Puerto Maldonado hotel. The next morning we returned to the gallery forest seeing Scaled Pigeon, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Great and Barred Antshrikes, Black-throated Antbird and Buff-breasted Wren. A short drive away on the outskirts of town we saw open country birds such as Southern Caracara, White-tailed Kite, Southern Lapwing, Dusky-headed Parakeet, Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet and Red-breasted Blackbird. Probably the highlight of the morning was our superb views of a really obliging Point-tailed Palmcreeper that sat out for ages on a nearby Mauritius palm. The last new bird of the trip from the lowlands was a Striped Cuckoo which perched right above our heads blasting his song out. Then it was time for our flight out of the jungle with some of us continuing on to Lima for flights home and with the rest of us stopping off for a couple of days in the Sacred Valley in order to visit the incomparable Machu Picchu. That afternoon we enjoyed a lovely lunch overlooking Cusco’s picturesque town square with its old cathedrals and stone streets. A dance procession with marching band was making its way energetically around the square no doubt celebrating a particular saint. Then we drove up into the highlands above Cusco before descending along the snow-peaked cordillera into the Sacred Valley to the lovely traditional town of Ollantaytambo. Once we arrived at our hotel, we had time for a bit of a stroll around the gardens with its view of the old Incan fortress overlooking the town. After a breakfast of Andean grains, fruit and fresh yogurt we enjoyed a nice start to the day in the gardens of our hotel with Bearded Mountaineers, Giant Hummingbird and White-bellied Hummingbird. Here was also Rusty Flowerpiercer, Cinereous Conebill, Hooded Siskin and Spot-winged Pigeon. Aboard our early train to Aguas Calientes we saw 25 Torrent Ducks during our journey through the spectacular Rio Urubamba canyon. This must be one of the great train rides of the world as you pass through Quechua speaking farm villages with snowy peaks looming above before descending into the humid cloud forest along the Rio Urubamba. Upon arrival we did some birding along the river below the ruins seeing Silvery, Saffron-crowned and Blue-necked Tanagers, Mottle-cheeked and Sclater’s Tyrannulets, Streaked Xenops and Slate-throated Redstart. Most of the group enjoyed an excellent tour of the ruins with our informative local interpretive guide. Meanwhile, those of us who had already visited the ruins on a prior visit walked the steep road up to the citadel finding Highland Motmot, White-throated Quail-Dove, the endemic Masked Fruiteater, Highland Hepatic Tanager and Yellow-olive Flycatcher. Afterwards we all met up for a luxurious buffet lunch at the Sanctuary Hotel located at the entry to Machu Picchu. On our return we stopped to do some more birding enjoying excellent views of Inca Wren as well as Ashy-headed Tyrannulet, Black-streaked Puffbird, Torrent Tyrannulet, Brown-capped Vireo and Fawn-breasted Tanager. Our return train ride back to Ollantaytambo went smoothly and of course there was the requisite fashion show en route featuring stylish alpaca fibre clothing and trendy runway pop tunes. The next morning we took an early flight to Lima where our driver was waiting to escort us to the Lomas de Lachay National Reserve located north of the city. We stopped along the way to look for House Sparrow which we dipped (the horror), no actually we stopped for Amazilia Hummingbird which we had great views of along with Croaking Ground-Dove. At the reserve we had good luck in finding Greyish and Thick-billed Miners along with lots of Band-tailed Sierra-Finch and Collared Warbling-Finch, but the Cactus Canasteros were obviously breeding and we had to do a fair bit of exploring before we managed to get one bird to show to all of us. Other highlights here included a perched Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle and the smart-looking Short-tailed Field-Tyrant. Then we moved on to a different habitat type where we had good views of several Least Seedsnipes along with Coastal Miner. Suddenly it was time to return to Lima to prepare for our flights home as our adventure into the wonders of Peru came to a happy end.


SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). Species recorded by the leader only are indicated by the symbol (LO). Conservation threat categories are taken from Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International’s excellent book on the status of the world’s declining avifauna, and updates on the BirdLife website: http://www.birdlife.org/datazone/index.html TINAMIDAE Great Tinamou Tinamus major: Our first was seen at Pantiacolla Lodge and at Manu Wildlife Centre

we had at least three other sightings of probably the same bird. One of the more primitive bird families, most tinamou species are polyandrous, a female supplying two or more males with eggs, who in a reversed role of the sexes, does all of the incubating and rearing of the precocial chicks.

White-throated Tinamou Tinamus guttatus: We made a fantastic find of a bird on its arboreal night roost during our night walk to Manu Wildlife Centre’s mammal clay lick.

Cinereous Tinamou Crypturellus cinereus: At least three birds were seen quite well on the jeep track at Amazonía Lodge.

Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui: One was seen by Peter at Cocha Blanco and we had a couple of heard-only records from second-growth forests.

Brown Tinamou Crypturellus obsoletus (H): One distant heard-only record from Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.

Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus: Seen each day at Amazonía Lodge. Black-capped Tinamou Crypturellus atrocapillus (H): An arresting, loud sound at Pantiacolla and

Amazonía Lodge. Sadly, much easier heard than seen, restricted to sw Amazonia. Variegated Tinamou Crypturellus variegatus (H): One individual was heard from the terra firme forest

of Manu Wildlife Centre. Bartlett’s Tinamou Crypturellus bartletti: Our stealthy trail walking paid off with at least three

sightings of this forest tinamou in the Manu lowlands. Named after Edward Bartlett, an English ornithologist who collected birds in the Amazon basin and Peru from 1865-1869.

Ornate Tinamou Nothoprocta ornata: A very nice bonus was seeing a trio of this species, which is actually a typical number for this genus, with a male usually accompanied by two females.

ANHIMIDAE Horned Screamer Anhima cornuta: Superb views of this impressive bird at Cocha Blanco where we

were able to get incredibly close to foraging birds. A species that has decreased over large parts of its range due to disturbance and hunting. Screamers are primitive relatives of swans, ducks and geese. Their vocalization ranks them amongst the loudest birds in the world.

ANATIDAE Andean Goose Chloephaga melanoptera: A species we don’t usually see this tour and another write-

in from our alternate route through the Cusco highlands. Orinoco Goose Neochen jubata: We had excellent views of birds on two separate days along the

Rio Madre de Dios. Good spotting Martine & François! Another sensitive species that only seems to occur in any numbers in protected or very remote areas, and that has disappeared from various parts of its former range (e.g. may now be extinct in Argentina). Classified as Near-Threatened.


Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata: Numerous good looks at both sexes in the Manu lowlands. Another species which due to hunting pressures has disappeared from many other areas in the Neotropics. The genus name refers to Cairo, in the early mistaken belief that this Neotropical species came from Egypt.

Torrent Duck Merganetta armata: One of the great attractions of the train ride to Aguas Calientes en route to Machu Picchu. We saw at least 30 birds in the Río Urubamba.

Sharp-winged Teal Anas oxyptera: Up to 40 were seen at Huacarpay Lake on the first day and small numbers were seen at waterholes in the highlands the following day.

Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica: Our first sighting included about a dozen at Huacarpay Lake. White-cheeked Pintail (Bahama P) Anas bahamensis: A vagrant bird was seen at Huacarpay Lake. Puna Teal Anas puna: A very handsome highland duck seen at Huacarpay Lake. Cinnamon Teal Anas cyanoptera: Just three birds were seen at Huacarpay Lake. Andean Duck (A Ruddy-D) Oxyura ferruginea: Up to five birds were seen at the marsh near Lima.

The Greek roots oxy and ur translate to sharp-tail. CRACIDAE Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata: This species was most common around Amazonía Lodge

where their cacophonous symphony was often on fine display. Andean Guan Penelope montagnii: A few pairs showed pretty very well in the cloud forest, here of

the Peruvian race plumosa. Spix’s Guan Penelope jacquacu: First seen at Amazonía Lodge, but our later encounters in the forest

around Romero Lodge were better sightings. Named after Johann Baptist von Spix, the German naturalist who discovered the now sadly extinct (in the wild) Spix’s Macaw Cyanopsitta spixii.

Blue-throated Piping-Guan Pipile cumanensis: We had good views from the cocha clearings around Romero Lodge and then fairly conspicuous in the lodge clearing of Manu Wildlife Centre. Still numerous in the Manu region, this handsome guan suffers in many other areas from habitat destruction and hunting, though it is still much better off than some of its congeners such as the endangered Black-fronted Piping-Guan.

Wattled Guan Aburria aburri (H): This shy species was heard out of reach farther upslope each night up in Amazonía’s hill forest.

Razor-billed Curassow Crax tuberosa: Good looks were had of this terrestrial cracid along the shores of the Rio Manu just as we set off on our first morning there. Members of this family (cracids) of game birds are often the first to disappear when humans begin to colonize a wilderness area.

ODONTOPHORIDAE Rufous-breasted Wood-Quail Odontophorus speciosus: Sort of unbelievable if we had not witnessed

it ourselves! At Cock-of-the Rock Lodge, after striking out on the screech-owl, did some random scans with my owling torch, and then ‘hey what is that lump there above the road?’ A pair of wood-quail on their night roost! We enjoyed some really nice views of two birds. What a great find!

Starred Wood-Quail Odontophorus stellatus (LO): One eventually showed at Manu Wildlife Centre but sadly the bird came out in an unintended direction.

PODICIPEDIDAE White-tufted Grebe Rollandia rolland: We saw three on Laguna Huacarpay the first day. Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus: This seemed like a bumper year for this species on Cocha

Blanco where we saw at least 15 including families with young. PHALACROCORACIDAE Neotropic Cormorant (Olivaceous C) Phalacrocorax brasilianus: A common bird seen in the

lowlands.


ANHINGIDAE Anhinga (American Darter) Anhinga anhinga: A few sightings of this non-buoyant, snake-necked

bird. ARDEIDAE Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum: Two sightings near Romero and a third was seen really

well at Cocha Camungo. Tiger-herons and bitterns are the only ones in the family that don’t breed in colonies.

Fasciated Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma fasciatum: A bird of rushing rivers and streams, with over a dozen seen in the rocky headwaters of the upper Rio Madre de Dios around Amazonía and Pantiacolla.

Agami Heron Agamia agami: We enjoyed superb studies of a fishing bird successfully spearing a fish on the banks of Cocha Blanco.

Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: A single individual was seen at Huacarpay lake near Cusco. A cosmopolitan species, here of the American race hoactli.

Striated Heron Butorides striatus: Regular sightings, especially along lake edges. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: Three were seen near Cusco and around Puerto Maldonado we saw small

numbers. The nominate race of this highly successful species apparently invaded South America from Africa in the late 19th century, one of the most spectacular examples of avian range expansions in historic times.

Cocoi Heron (White-necked H) Ardea cocoi: Frequently seen on the Manu and Madre de Dios rivers. This species is one of the primary predators of young Black Caimans on oxbow lakes, although in recent decades humans have been much more detrimental to this endangered crocodilian.

Great Egret (G White E) Ardea alba: Regular sightings along the Manu and Madre de Dios rivers. Formerly often separated in the monotypic genus Casmerodius.

Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus: We had a couple of excellent sightings of this exquisite river heron. The buffy wash on the breast is thought to come from the powder-downs. The generic name is entirely derived from ancient Greek: pilos = cap, erodios = heron.

Snowy Egret Egretta thula: The most abundant heron seen on our river journeys. Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea: Five were seen during the trip, during the river journeys but also

one in the highlands at Huacarpay. Formerly often placed in the genus Florida. THRESKIORNITHIDAE Puna Ibis Plegadis ridgwayi: Numerous in agricultural fields in the sacred valley and at Huacarpay

Lake. This bird is named after Robert Ridgway, US ornithologist and author of “The Birds of North and Middle America”, 1901.

Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis: Our afternoon at Cocha Blanco produced good views of four of these forest ibis. The name ‘cayennensis’ (as well as similar names such as cayana for other species) refers to Cayenne or French Guyana, an epithet that in early ornithology usually indicated a species of otherwise unknown provenance.

CICONIIDAE Wood Stork Mycteria americana: A total of 5 birds were seen both foraging and in flight during our

boat journey to Manu Wildlife Centre. CATHARTIDAE Black Vulture Coragyps atratus: Ever present near human settlements. Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura: In the Manu lowlands small numbers were seen along the Madre de

Dios, but this species is seemingly absent or at best rare along the Manu River, undoubtedly due to the absence of open terrain required by this species. Small numbers were also seen in cleared areas in the foothills and along the coast.


Greater Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes melambrotus: The most common vulture over primary rainforest.

King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa: Flying birds were seen on several occasions, with a total of 17 seen. Undoubtedly one of the tour highlights was seeing several birds feeding at a carcass along the Rio Madre de Dios. Our boat was able to approach incredibly close to these bizarre looking creatures, superb! ‘Papa’ is Latin for bishop, and the name refers to the immaculate white plumage of the adult.

ACCIPITRIDAE Grey-headed Kite Leptodon cayanensis: We had good views of this bird in flight showing its lovely

underwing pattern well. Swallow-tailed Kite (American S-t K) Elanoides forficatus: Small numbers were seen in the foothills

near Atalaya and Amazonía and several singles were seen in the Manu lowlands. White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus: Two different birds were seen perched and in flight in the Puerto

Maldonado lowlands. Double-toothed Kite Harpagus bidentatus: A few birds were seen in the lower foothills of the Manu

road, Amazonía Lodge and the Manu lowlands. Here the cis-Andean (= E of Andes) nominate race, which is rich rufous below.

Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea: Numerous in the Amazonían lowlands and foothills. On one occasion we watched a bird come from quite far to snatch away a large airborne insect.

Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens: Our first near Manu Wildlife Centre allowed us to approach quite close. Later during the journey to Boca Colorado we saw at least 4 more.

Slate-coloured Hawk Leucopternis schistacea: Sadly only glimpsed from the trail at Cocha Camungo for an untickable view.

Great Black Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga: A common sight during our boat journeys often perched up on driftwood along the Manu and Madre de Dios rivers.

Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis: One was spotted by Peter at Cocha Blanco. Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus: Small numbers were seen at Huacarpay

Lake. During the post-tour extension we saw two in the Machu Picchu area and had some lovely close-ups of a perched adult at Lomas de Lachay.

Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris: A common driftwood and beach-combing Buteo in the Manu lowlands, a place where roads are few and far between. The Transoceanic highway which we travelled on to reach Puerto Maldonado is now all but finished, passing through Puerto Maldonado, the capital of the department, and also known as the capital of biodiversity for the world record species counts of butterflies, dragonflies and other organisms found in the surrounding area. Thankfully, the highway avoids the three nearby National Parks, which are some of the largest in the world, Manu, Bahuaja-Sonene (formerly Tambopata-Candamo) and Madidi (in neighbouring Bolivia). Although the highway passes through areas already disturbed by mining, many conservationists worry that the highway will eventually lead to side roads, deforestation and colonization in neighbouring areas, and the loss of species potentially new to science.

Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus: A soaring bird over Cocha Camungo featured during our catamaran ride.

Variable Hawk Buteo polyosoma: Three seen at Huacarpay on the first day and a few were also seen during the journey over the highlands to Manu.

Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle Spizastur melanoleucus: A total of three birds seen with good views had by all beginning from Amazonía’s tower, and then singles during the boat journeys to Pantiacolla (Rio Madre de Dios) and Manu Wildlife Centre (Rio Manu).

Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus: A calling bird was seen at our lunch stop near Pilcopata; its flight; its flight silhouette distinctive.

Ornate Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus ornatus: Thanks to Martine for spotting a an adult perched in a low tree over the trail at Romero!


Black-and-chestnut Eagle Spizaetus isidori: Our first at Acjanacu gave us a rather nice fly-by during our picnic lunch. Lower down in the San Pedro valley we saw a second bird from the bus on more than one occasion.

FALCONIDAE Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans: We enjoyed excellent views of a bird perched at the

edge of Romero’s cocha and later we saw a second at Blanquillo Lined Forest-Falcon Micrastur gilvicollis: A calling bird was as difficult as ever. We all saw it pass in

lightning flight but only Richard managed to see it on its perch. Southern Caracara Caracara plancus: A recent invader following deforestation around Puerto

Maldonado of which we saw several in the pastures. Black Caracara Daptrius ater: Over 20 seen mostly during our river and oxbow lake excursions

including adults (reddish facial skin) and juveniles (yellow facial skin) of this carrion-eating bird. The genus is derived from Greek and means ‘to devour’.

Red-throated Caracara Ibycter americanus: We had quite good views in the scope at Amazonía Lodge of these incredibly noisy birds. Sadly this species has undergone a massive decline in most of Middle America, but fortunately it seems to have decreased relatively little across its vast Amazonían range.

Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus: A total of 12 were seen in the Cusco highlands. American Kestrel Falco sparverius: Most birds were seen at Huacarpay Lake and over the inter-

Andean valleys, but a few birds were also seen along the coast. Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis: At least 5 seen and in flight during our Manu and Madre de Dios River

boat journeys. Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis: Two were seen quite well in flight just after our picnic lunch at

Huacarpay Lake and Richard had two more the following day in the highlands. One was also observed in the Cusco highlands during the extension.

ARAMIDAE Limpkin Aramus guarauna: Three birds were seen from the cocha edges around Romero Lodge and

later at Cocha Blanco we had good views of 5 birds. PSOPHIIDAE Pale-winged Trumpeter Psophia leucoptera: At Pantiacolla Lodge we had a rather large family group

of nearly 10 birds out on the path one evening. Later Gwen and Gil had a lovely close encounter with birds feeding under the big strangler fig at Manu Wildlife Centre. This species is found south of the Amazon River, and west of the Madeira River (a major dispersal barrier, the Madre de Dios River is one of its tributaries). Genetic data indicate the Gruidae (cranes) to be the sister family to the trumpeters.

RALLIDAE Grey-necked Wood-Rail Aramides cajanea: We all saw this species at Amazonía Lodge and later at

Cocha Blanco we had amazing views from the catamaran. Uniform Crake Amaurolimnas concolor (H): This species was fairly quiet during our visit and was

only heard briefly in the evenings. Rufous-sided Crake Laterallus melanophaius: At Cocha Camungo we had a most cooperative bird

come up onto a visible perch above the grass and sing. Grey-breasted Crake Laterallus exilis: Several of us managed quite good views at Cocha Camungo

just before we saw the previous species. A second bird was seen the next day at Cocha Blanco but it was difficult.

Blackish Rail Pardirallus nigricans: We had great luck in seeing a duetting pair of this species at a marsh along the lower Manu road. Superb!

Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus: This highland rail is always quite easy to see which we found to be the case at Huacarpay Lake.


Common Gallinule (C Moorhen) Gallinula galeata: Small numbers were seen at Huacarpay Lake and near Manu Wildlife Centre.

Slate-coloured Coot (Andean C) Fulica ardesiaca: Nearly 100 were seen on Huacarpay Lake. HELIORNITHIDAE Sungrebe (American Finfoot) Heliornis fulica: At Cocha Blanco a bird was hard to see at first hiding

in cover but then it came out for wonderful views. The smallest member in the Finfoot family, the New World Sungrebe is unique in males having marsupial-like pouches underneath the wings in which they can transport the chicks in flight. This adaptation is unique among birds.

EURYPYGIDAE Sunbittern Eurypyga helias: At Cocha Blanco we saw this species within moments of seeing Sungrebe

as well as Agami Heron! We were fortunate that the bird showed us its incredible upper wing pattern. This monotypic species is thought to be a distant relative of the Kagu of New Caledonia and their relationship is evidence for the former supercontinent of Gondwanaland.

CHARADRIIDAE Pied Lapwing (Pied Plover) Vanellus cayanus: We repeatedly admired this handsome species during

our boat trips. Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis: This recent invader is now well-established in the recently

deforested pasturelands surrounding Puerto Maldonado. Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens: We saw up to 12 around Huacarpay Lake and saw another

10 the following day in the Cusco highlands. Collared Plover Charadrius collaris: Regular on sandbars and river edges of the Rio Manu. SCOLOPACIDAE Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularia: Just one seen during our chilly boat journey between

Pantiacolla and Romero at the start of the friaje. Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes: A brief view of one that appeared to be injured at Huacarpay Lake. THINOCORIDAE Least Seedsnipe Thinocorus rumicivorus: We enjoyed some lovely views of a few birds at Lomas de

Lachay, including a displaying male, here of the coastal race cuneicauda. Note that Thinocorus, derived from Greek, literally means ‘sand lark’. This species breeds here in the Lomas, but leaves the area after breeding.

JACANIDAE Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana: Small numbers were seen in the grassy margins of the oxbow lakes

and in the few wet spots that remained in the otherwise very dry pastures of the Puerto Maldonado area.

LARIDAE Andean Gull Chroicocephalus serranus: Up to 10 along the Rio Urubamba and near Huacarpay

Lake. Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus: A few were seen during our drive along the coast on our last day. Also

called the Southern Black-backed Gull, and a species that has been on the increase throughout its range with the expansion of fisheries and agriculture.

Yellow-billed Tern Sterna superciliaris: Frequent sightings in the Manu lowlands, especially along the Rio Manu.


Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex: Nearly 80 of this spectacular tern were seen during the trip, with most of them seen on the Rio Manu, here at its natural density, undisturbed by egg-collecting settlers.

RYNCHOPIDAE Black Skimmer Rynchops niger: We had many good views of this species in skimming flight over the

Rio Manu and Madre de Dios. COLUMBIDAE Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti: Six were seen in the Puerto Maldonado area. Croaking Ground-Dove Columbina cruziana: Seen during the extension, our first was seen at a petrol

station en route to Lomas. This species is seasonally fairly common in the green herbaceous ground-cover at Lomas de Lachay where we saw at least 20.

Bare-faced Ground-Dove Metriopelia ceciliae: We all had very nice views at Lake Huacarpay on the first day.

Black-winged Ground-Dove Metriopelia melanoptera (NL): This species was seen by just a few of us at Huacarpay on the first day.

Rock Pigeon (Feral Pigeon, R Dove) Columba livia: A common sight in Cusco and Lima, and birds were also seen in Pilcopata and Puerto Maldonado.

Scaled Pigeon Patagioenas speciosa: This handsome pigeon was seen quite well in the light woodland of Puerto Maldonado.

Spot-winged Pigeon Columba maculosa: Up to 8 were seen in the arid highlands en route to the Manu cloud forest. During the Machu Picchu extension we saw two more in the highlands.

Band-tailed Pigeon Columba fasciata: Small numbers were seen in the Pillahuata area. Pale-vented Pigeon Columba cayennensis: Sometimes fairly numerous especially along rivers and

oxbow lake margins. Ruddy Pigeon Columba subvinacea: Our best sighting was a good scope view of one between Cock-

of-the-Rock Lodge and Atalaya. Plumbeous Pigeon Columba plumbea: Another one that was common by voice but with several seen

in the lowlands, and also regularly heard and seen as high up as the Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.

Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata: Small numbers were seen in Lima and near Huacarpay Lake, but this species was particularly numerous in the Lomas de Lachay with over 20 seen. Here the white-tipped (tail) race hypoleuca.

West Peruvian Dove (Pacific D) Zenaida meloda: A common dove in Lima and along the coast. Grey-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla: A characteristic forest sound in lowland Amazonía, and several

were also seen during the trip. Sapphire Quail-Dove Geotrygon saphirina (H): One bird was heard, but it was too far for even an

off-trail effort. White-throated Quail-Dove Geotrygon frenata: One was seen fairly well during the Machu Picchu

extension. Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana: Several birds were flushed from lowland forest trails but

unfortunately we never had this one on the deck. PSITTACIDAE Blue-and-yellow Macaw Ara ararauna: Many spectacular views of this huge parrot in the Manu

lowlands. Military Macaw Ara militaris: This year we saw a total of 16 birds in the Manu foothills with a flock

of a dozen birds being most memorable. Classified as Vulnerable. Scarlet Macaw Ara macao: Many great looks at perched and preening pairs, with a very memorable

sighting of birds in flight from the Amazonía tower.


Red-and-green Macaw Ara chloroptera: Seen on a daily basis in the Manu lowlands along with the other two large macaws. The Tambo Blanquillo ccollpa (Quechua for clay lick) provided us with a great show with nearly 30 descending to the clay wall along with the other parrots. This drama is repeated daily throughout the long dry season of southeast Peru as parrots and macaws are forced to choose from a diminishing supply of desirable seed trees, many of the seeds containing toxic defence compounds to prevent such predation. Seeds represent the bulk of a parrot’s diet and all psittacids are referred to as seed-predators. This species is also called the Green-winged Macaw.

Chestnut-fronted Macaw Ara severa: Common in the lowlands, and a few pairs frequented the clearing at Amazonía Lodge.

Blue-headed Macaw Propyrrhura couloni: We had superb views of this species perched up near the Pantiacolla macaw-clay lick. A near-endemic with a fairly restricted range and an unmistakable call. Classified as Endangered.

Red-bellied Macaw Orthopsittaca manilata: A total of 20 were seen in flight in the Manu lowlands. This species is almost totally dependent on the presence of Moriche Palms (Mauritia flexuosa). Moriche palm fruit is packed with beta-carotene and in any given Amazonian town it is popular either whole or in juices, ice-cream and cakes.

Mitred Parakeet Aratinga mitrata: First seen in temperate woodland just before we arrived at the Acjanacu pass. We also saw birds in flight in the Machu Picchu area. The genera Aratinga and Pyrrhura are also referred to as conures.

White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus: A dozen birds seen at the Pantiacolla ccollpa (clay-lick) was strangely our only sighting.

Dusky-headed Parakeet Aratinga weddellii: Numerous fly-bys but not until Puerto Maldonado did we all have excellent scope studies of perched birds. This widespread species is named after Hugh Algernon Weddell, a physician and botanist specializing in South American flora. In 1845 during a solitary journey through Peru and Bolivia, he succeeded in his quest to find the enigmatic fever bark tree, Cinchona (the source of quinine, an anti-malarial), and went on to describe 15 species in the genus. The seeds that he took to Paris were germinated and used to establish Cinchona forests in Java and the East Indies.

Rose-fronted Parakeet (Red-crowned P) Pyrrhura roseifrons: At Cocha Camungo we enjoyed superb scope views of perched birds from the canopy platform.

Black-capped Parakeet (Rock P) Pyrrhura rupicola: The other Manu Pyrrhura seen extremely well at close quarter at the mammal ccollpa of Manu Wildlife Centre.

Dusky-billed Parrotlet Forpus sclateri: We first saw four perched near a cavity up on Amazonía Lodge’s hill, and then enjoyed at least 20 at the mammal ccollpa (quechua for clay lick).

Cobalt-winged Parakeet Brotogeris cyanoptera: Numerous and widespread in the Manu lowlands. Tui Parakeet Brotogeris sanctithomae: First seen at Romero Lodge, and we later had good looks at

small numbers of them at Blanquillo ccollpa and the Cocha Camungo platform. White-bellied Parrot Pionites leucogaster: Our patience was rewarded at Cocha Blanco where we

enjoyed some really lovely flight views across the cocha in the golden tropical light of late afternoon. The English name caique is also used for this genus of parrots.

Orange-cheeked Parrot Pionopsitta barrabandi: Small numbers were seen quite well at the Blanquillo ccollpa.

Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus: At least 1000 were present at the Blanquillo ccollpa, making for quite the spectacle of sight and sound.

Yellow-crowned Parrot (Y-c Amazon) Amazona ochrocephala: First seen at the Pantiacolla ccollpa but then very common at the Blanquillo ccollpa with nearly 100 birds seen there. This species is more common in Moriche flooded palm forests.

Scaly-naped Parrot (S-n Amazon) Amazona mercenaria: A group of 15 of these large Amazonas were seen quite well in flight below Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.

Mealy Parrot (M Amazon) Amazona farinosa: Around 300 were present this year at the Blanquillo ccollpa, and otherwise we found them to be fairly common in the Manu lowlands.


OPISTHOCOMIDAE Hoatzin Opisthocomus hoazin: A social nesting bird, we observed groups of breeding birds at

Amazonía Lodge and later we found them to be common at Cocha Camungo and Cocha Blanco. One of the very few birds that almost entirely subsist on a diet of leaves, this odd species has some peculiar attributes, including microbial foregut fermentation to convert plant cellulose in consumed foliage into simple sugars, and a highly modified skeleton to accommodate its large crop. Once thought to be the lost link to the feathered dinosaur Archaeopteryx because of the chick’s clawed wings, these claws are now considered a recent secondary adaptation to the chicks having to clamber up vegetation if they are forced to evacuate the nest due to a threat. The placement of this order is still controversial, with the most comprehensive genetic data set to date unable to resolve its relationships, there being no evidence for a close relationship to any order within the Neoaves.

CUCULIDAE Little Cuckoo Coccycua minuta: Most of us saw the bird at Amazonía Lodge that perched briefly out

of the thick cocha vegetation. Ash-coloured Cuckoo Coccycua cinerea: This austral migrant was very much a surprise sighting on

the outskirts of Puerto Maldonado. It appears to have been present here for at least a week as a group of visiting birders saw it a few days later at the same spot.

Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana: Common from the lowlands into the Cosñipata valley near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.

Dark-billed Cuckoo Coccyzus melacoryphus: One at Amazonía Lodge was seen along the jeep track.

Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani: This species was most abundant in the deforested plains above Pilcopata and around Puerto Maldonado.

Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia: A very obliging individual was admired at close-range through the scope near Puerto Maldonado. The last new lowland bird of the trip!

STRIGIDAE Rufescent Screech-Owl Megascops ingens (H): Strangely, this one refused to respond after initially

responding during my pre-dawn scouting. Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl Megascops watsonii: At Amazonía we were surprised when, upon

switching on the torch, an individual was perched much closer than we had thought. Moments later we saw the same bird again perched in the lower branch of a mango tree.

Crested Owl Lophostrix cristata: We saw a perched bird high in the canopy at Manu Wildlife Centre. Band-bellied Owl Pulsatrix melanota (H): One bird was heard near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. Mottled Owl Ciccaba virgata (H): One heard-only record pre-dawn from Amazonía Lodge. Black-banded Owl Ciccaba huhula (H): We attempted to see a calling bird at Amazonía Lodge but it

remained distant. Rufous-banded Owl Ciccaba albitarsis (H): A very distant heard-only from the Wayquecha station. Yungas Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium bolivianum: We had superb views of a close-perched bird on our

first day in the Manu cloudforest. Amazonían Pygmy-Owl (Hardy’s P-O) Glaucidium hardyi: Several were recorded in the Manu

lowlands of which some of us saw two of the birds in flight but it was not for lack of trying as our sore necks were testament. Named after J.W. Hardy, who’s published a series of audio tapes on Neotropical bird families.

Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum: A singing bird at Pantiacolla was seen well in second-growth forest.

Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia: Three different birds were seen along the Rio Madre de Dios and as many as five birds were seen at Lomas de Lachay.


NYCTIBIIDAE Great Potoo Nyctibius grandis (H): Heard calling one morning pre-dawn at Amazonía. Long-tailed Potoo Nyctibius maculosus: Amazingly we saw this much-desired species not once but

twice. Our first was a first year bird at Pantiacolla Lodge which still roosts on the same perch on which it hatched. Our second at Manu Wildlife Centre was more spontaneous with a calling bird perched low over the trail one evening.

Common Potoo Nyctibius griseus (H): A calling bird on the other side of Amazonía’s creek had us marching out to see it but somehow it remained hidden!

CAPRIMULGIDAE Rufous-bellied Nighthawk Lurocalis rufiventris: A calling bird swooped low over our heads just at

dawn one morning at San Pedro (Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge). It pays to be first-in-the-field! Sand-coloured Nighthawk Chordeiles rupestris: A nightly spectacle along the Rio Manu, with

excellent views of both roosting and flying birds. Pauraque (Common P) Nyctidromus albicollis: A few birds were seen in the lodge clearings and

otherwise flushed from their roosts by day. Ocellated Poorwill Nyctiphrynus ocellatus: We all had quite good views of a calling male on his

song perch at Manu Wildlife Centre. Silky-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus sericocaudatus (LO): At Romero a bird flushed from near the trail

but a subsequent effort failed to turn it up. Then later during our birding in the Manu lowlands, we tried hard to see a calling bird, even going off trail in the dark into what proved to be an impenetrable understorey.

Swallow-tailed Nightjar Uropsalis segmentata: A superb close showing by a male resting on the trail had us all enthralled at Wayqecha.

Lyre-tailed Nightjar Uropsalis lyra: The other spectacular nightjar with which we had great luck, first seeing a roosting female by day and then we saw an incredible male make multiple display flights over the cloud forest road one evening.

APODIDAE Chestnut-collared Swift Streptoprocne rutila: Frequent encounters along the cloud forest road. Often

placed in the genus Cypseloides. Both genera form the distinctive subfamily Cypseloidinae. They all show a distinct affinity for water and waterfalls as an essential component of their nesting/roosting ecology.

White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris: Regular sightings of this large swift, with a few large flocks seen in the foothills.

Grey-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris: Several groups were seen in the lowlands and foothills. Pale-rumped Swift Chaetura egregia: Two were seen along with the previous species during our clay-

lick session at Blanquillo and three more were seen the next day from the Cocha Camungo tower.

Fork-tailed Palm-Swift (Neotropical Palm-Swift) Tachornis squamata: Small groups were seen several times with our first sighting above Pilcopata along the lower Manu road. A species tied to Mauritia palms, formerly placed in the genus Reinarda. The Latin root squam (scale) refers to the pale-edged feathers on the back giving a slight scaly appearance.

TROCHILIDAE White-necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora: Both male and female plumaged birds were seen both in

clearings and forest at Amazonía and Manu Wildlife Centre. Rufous-breasted Hermit (Hairy H) Glaucis hirsuta: Seen once visiting the feeder at Manu Wildlife

Centre, and then a second showed well on the outskirts of Puerto Maldonado. Pale-tailed Barbthroat Threnetes leucurus: First seen along the muddy-Ruddy Foliage-gleaner track

along the Manu road, and thankfully we all caught up with a second at Amazonía Lodge. Reddish Hermit Phaethornis ruber: First seen at Romero and then very easy to see this year on the

Stachytarpeta hedge at Manu Wildlife Centre.


White-browed Hermit Phaethornis stuarti: This speciality was first seen near Pilcopata by Richard and the leader with a second seen by others at Amazonía Lodge.

White-bearded Hermit Phaethornis hispidus: Seen well on several occasions, this species was a regular at the Manu Wildlife Centre feeders.

Koepcke’s Hermit Phaethornis koepckeae: Great views near the clearing at Amazonía Lodge. A Peruvian endemic, classified as Near-Threatened, and named after Maria Koepcke, who wrote the Dept. of Lima field guide and died in a plane crash along with 92 others in 1971. One of the sole survivors was her 17-year old daughter brought back in the rescue mission. An enthusiastic explorer and ornithological curator for the Lima museum, one of Koepcke’s most important discoveries was a new species, endemic to Peru from the highland forests of Zarate, the White-cheeked Cotinga, Zaratornis stresemanni. From Peru she described three species of birds new to science and 13 new subspecies. In addition to the hermit bearing her name, the endemic Selva Cacique, Cacicus koepckeae and the Peruvian subspecies of Horned Curassow, Pauxi unicornis koepckeae were named in her honour. A bat, Mimon koepckeae and a lizard, Tropidurus occipitalis koepckeorum, are also named after her.

Needle-billed Hermit Phaethornis philippii: One showed briefly to us in hovering flight at Manu Wildlife Centre.

Wedge-billed Hermit Schistes geoffroyi: We eventually all had good views of this species in the garden at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.

Green Violetear Colibri thalassinus: Three were seen in the Manu cloud forest and at least two more were seen in the Aguas Calientes area during the extension.

Sparkling Violetear Colibri coruscans: At least three were regularly visiting the feeders in the cloud forest.

Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis: One showed nicely at Amazonía Lodge. Amethyst-throated Sunangel Heliangelus amethysticollis: We had excellent views of this

hummingbird along the trail below Waqanki station. Rufous-crested Coquette Lophornis delattrei: We had brilliant close-ups of female plumaged birds at

Amazonía, but no sign of the males during our visit. Festive Coquette Lophornis chalybeus: This species is now fairly regular visiting the vervain at Manu

Wildlife Centre where we saw first a female followed the next day with a cracking male. Peruvian Piedtail Phlogophilus harterti: In the lower cloud forest we all had excellent views of male

birds at their lek. Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys: Somewhat common around Cock-of-the-Rock

Lodge, this cloud forest hummingbird is reminiscent of a hermit hummingbird in appearance.

Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi: Several sightings of both male and female birds. Named after Rear Admiral Philip Parker King (1791-1856), British marine surveyor, collector and traveller in the American tropics.

Green-tailed Trainbearer Lesbia nuna: We had just one good sighting in the arid scrub around Huacarpay Lake.

Bearded Mountaineer Oreonympha nobilis: A restricted-range, Peruvian endemic who performed wonderfully in an area of Nicotiana sp. (‘tree tobacco’). Our sighting of two duelling males and their iridescent beards was really special! ‘Restricted-range’ is defined by Birdlife International as a species confined to an area of less than 50,000 square kilometres. Peru has the highest number of restricted-range species in the Neotropics and is second in the world only to Indonesia.

Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina: Both males and females were seen well foraging in the area of Pillahuata, here of the deep blue-tailed race smaragdinicollis.

Gould’s Inca Coeligena inca: We had just one decent sighting on our second day in the Manu cloud forest.

Violet-throated Starfrontlet Coeligena violifer: In all we saw three of this large hummer in the Manu cloud forest.


Chestnut-breasted Coronet Boissonneaua matthewsii: Just one seen on our first day in the upper Manu cloud forest.

Booted Racket-Tail Ocreatus underwoodii: We had brilliant close-ups of this species at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. Here the buff-booted race annae.

Gould’s Jewelfront Heliodoxa aurescens: One of the favourite hummers of the trip for a few of us who saw it quite well at Amazonía after a patient wait. Named after John Gould, the famous English 19th century naturalist.

Violet-fronted Brilliant Heliodoxa leadbeateri: Excellent studies of both males and females at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.

Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas: At least three seen in the Sacred Valley during the Machu Picchu extension. The planet’s largest hummer, here of the race peruviana.

Long-billed Starthroat Heliomaster longirostris: A fairly regular visitor to the clearing of Manu Wildlife Centre.

White-bellied Woodstar Chaetocercus mulsant: Three individuals were seen perched during our cloud forest birding.

Amethyst Woodstar Calliphlox amethystina: A male was visiting Amazonía’s vervain flowers but only a few of us saw him after a patient wait.

Blue-tailed Emerald Chlorostilbon mellisugus: Both sexes showed well at Amazonía’s vervain flowers.

Grey-breasted Sabrewing Campylopterus largipennis: A regular visitor to the feeders at Amazonía. Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata: We had some nice views of the male’s incredible

iridescence. Many-spotted Hummingbird Taphrospilus hypostictus: We had repeated good views of this species

at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. White-bellied Hummingbird Amazilia chionogaster: At least three individuals were seen well at our

Sacred Valley hotel during the extension. Green-and-white Hummingbird Amazilia viridicauda: Five individuals of this endemic species were

seen at Aguas Calientes. Amazilia Hummingbird Amazilia amazilia: We had a really good look at this handsome species at

the start of our Lomas de Lachay outing during the extension. Sapphire-spangled Emerald Amazilia lactea: At least three birds were visiting the vervain shrubs at

Amazonía Lodge and later we saw one at Puerto Maldonado. Golden-tailed Sapphire Chrysuronia oenone: The common humming visiting the vervain and

clearing at Amazonía Lodge. Here the race josephinae, in which males have a green throat (not an entirely blue hood like the nominate birds some of you may have seen in Ecuador).

White-chinned Sapphire Hylocharis cyanus: We enjoyed excellent views on several occasions of this forest hummer feeding at the vervain of Manu Wildlife Centre.

TROGONIDAE Pavonine Quetzal Pharomachrus pavoninus: On our first day at Manu Wildlife Centre we were

fortunate to all have great scope views of this species in the near subcanopy. This species is the rarest of the New World quetzals.

Golden-headed Quetzal Pharomachrus auriceps (H): Seemingly scarce this year along the cloud forest road with only one heard-only record.

Crested Quetzal Pharomachrus antisianus (H): Sadly, this quetzal was only heard far below the cloud forest road.

Black-tailed Trogon Trogon melanurus: We saw up to a dozen and more in tall forest in the lowlands.

Amazonian Trogon Trogon ramonianus: Just the one male seen at Romero Lodge, and others heard. This form and Gartered Trogon T. caligatus (Central America and northwest South America) were until recently lumped in Guianan Trogon T. violaceus.


Blue-crowned Trogon Trogon curucui: Seen or heard fairly regularly between Amazonía Lodge and Manu National Park

Collared Trogon Trogon collaris: Two birds were seen well at Amazonía Lodge (nominate race). Masked Trogon Trogon personatus: We had good luck with this species in the Manu cloud forest

seeing a total six. ALCEDINIDAE Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquata: At least four of these impressive birds were seen along the Manu

and Madre de Dios Rivers as well as at Cocha Blanco. Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona: This species is usually more numerous than Ringed

Kingfisher in the Manu lowlands. We totalled up to 10 individuals during the trip. Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana: A handful of sightings from the Manu lowlands from both

rivers and oxbows. Green-and-rufous Kingfisher Chloroceryle inda (LO): A bird along the creek at Manu Wildlife Centre

was sadly a leader-only sighting shooting off its perch. MOMOTIDAE Broad-billed Motmot Electron platyrhynchum: Good spotting by Gwen and others at Pantiacolla

Lodge to find this bird in the subcanopy. Rufous Motmot Barypthengus martii (H): Heard on a few occasions in the Manu lowlands. Whooping Motmot Momotus ignobilis (H): Somewhat vocal during our stay at Manu Wildlife Centre. Highland Motmot Momotus aequatorialis: We had great luck in seeing an individual that came down

to pause on the road! Then during the extension we saw three additional birds during our train rides to and from Machu Picchu. A bigger and higher-elevation replacement of the previous.

GALBULIDAE Purus Jacamar (Chestnut J) Galbalcyrhynchus purusianus: We first saw this species from one of the

trails at Romero and we later saw more at Cocha Camungo. It is named after the Purús River, a tributary of the Amazon, which together with the Manu River form a large, roadless wilderness area home to two uncontacted indigenous groups, termed the Mashco and the Curanjeño, both living in voluntary isolation. In 1894 the Peruvian rubber baron Carlos Fitzcarrald left the Ucayali-Urubamba watershed and crossed an overland isthmus (now known as the Fitzcarrald Arch) into what he thought was the Purús River, but which was actually the Manu River. He eventually brought a steam-ship (having to disassemble it) from Iquitos over the 10 kilometre long isthmus, terrorizing Indians along the Rio Manu as he went, an exploit dramatized, although inaccurately, by the German producer Werner Herzog's bizarre film “Fitzcarraldo.”

White-throated Jacamar Brachygalba albogularis: This localised species remains in the Puerto Maldonado area where we enjoyed good views of a pair.

Bluish-fronted Jacamar Galbula cyanescens: Another elegant member of this showy family, granting many good views.

BUCCONIDAE White-necked Puffbird Notharcus hyperrhynchus (H): Our canopy birding was fairly slow and we

were otherwise able to see calling birds. Chestnut-capped Puffbird Bucco macrodactylus: Our first along the Atalaya ridge was seen by most

of us. Then we all caught up with a very obliging bird over the trail near Manu Wildlife Centre. Note that Handbook of the Birds of the World resurrects the monospecific genus Argicus for this species (among other distinguishing features, the Chestnut-capped Puffbird lacks the ‘bifid’ bill of other species of the subfamily Bucconinae).

Collared Puffbird Bucco capensis (LO): If it were not for a tree fall, we all might have seen this one that unfortunately flushed upon our approach.


Striolated Puffbird Nystalus striolatus: Coming upon a pair of this much-wanted species on an exposed perch was one of the highlights of our Pantiacolla birding.

Semicollared Puffbird Malacoptila semicincta: It took some perseverance and an awesome spot by Martine, but we came away with superb studies of this high-quality understorey puffbird at Manu Wildlife Centre. A restricted-range species of south-western Amazonía.

Lanceolated Monklet Micromonacha lanceolata: Another great stroke of puffbird luck when we got a vocal individual in the scope and followed it up with a fly-by of a dozen Military Macaws!

Rufous-capped Nunlet Nonnula ruficapilla: We had excellent views of this unobtrusive little puffbird in the bamboo.

Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons: Near-daily in the Manu lowlands. White-fronted Nunbird Monasa morphoeus: A species which replaces the former in terra-firme

forests. Swallow-wing Puffbird (Swallow-winged Puffbird) Chelidoptera tenebrosa: A common sight in

riverside treetops. The most aberrant puffbird, highly adapted for aerial activity. CAPITONIDAE Gilded Barbet Capito auratus: We had many good looks at this far-sounding and colourful barbet on

several occasions in the Manu lowlands. A species that still shows a very complex pattern of geographic variation, birds in Manu belonging to the orange-throated race insperatus.

Lemon-throated Barbet Eubucco richardsoni (H): Somehow we were not able to get one to show for us this trip, here the race aurantiicollis.

Scarlet-hooded Barbet Eubucco tucinkae: A superb near-endemic, showing well in Cecropia-dominated second growth at Pantiacolla Lodge.

Versicoloured Barbet Eubucco versicolor: Two sightings of this montane barbet near the Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge of both sexes. Here the southernmost, nominate subspecies, in which the male shows a bright blue malar and lower throat.

RAMPHASTIDAE Channel-billed Toucan Ramphastos vitellinus: We first had good views of calling birds in the Romero

area, this is Western Amazonía’s ‘croaker’, perfectly mimicking its larger, ‘yelping’ cousin.

White-throated Toucan (Red-billed T) Ramphastos tucanus: Always impressive, but sometimes (when silent) tricky to tell apart from the previous species.

Black-throated Toucanet Aulacorhynchus atrogularis: After hearing several we eventual had good views at Amazonía Lodge.

Blue-banded Toucanet Aulacorhynchus coeruleicinctis: A most handsome cloudforest speciality, granting excellent scope views .

Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan Andigena hypoglauca: An opportune spot by Richard allowed us all to enjoy a rather good view of a bird perched out above the canopy. Classified as Near-Threatened.

Golden-collared Toucanet Selenidera reinwardtii: A male through the scope perched in close proximity was one of the more amazing moments we enjoyed at Manu Wildlife Centre.

Ivory-billed Aracari Pteroglossus azara: We had good views of a party from the Manu Wildlife Centre tower and later had a second sighting near Puerto Maldonado.

Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis: Seen well on a number of occasions, especially from the clearing of Amazonía and also in the Manu lowlands.

Curl-crested Aracari Pteroglossus beauharnaesii: Surely the oddest plumaged of the aracaris with their waxy curls, a feature that we could actually see through the scope!

PICIDAE Rufous-breasted Piculet Picumnus rufiventris: A pair of this handsome piculet obliged very well in

the bamboo of Romero Lodge.


Fine-barred Piculet (Marcapata P) Picumnus subtilis: We had to wait, but eventually we were rewarded with good views of a male at Amazonía Lodge.

Yellow-tufted Woodpecker Melanerpes cruentatus: Oddly just two sightings of this red-bellied species, the only representative of the genus in the Amazon basin.

Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus: One sighting from secondary woodland at Amazonía Lodge.

Red-stained Woodpecker Veniliornis affinis: We enjoyed excellent scope views of a bird accompanying a mixed flock at Manu Wildlife Centre.

White-throated Woodpecker Piculus leucolaemus (H): Heard twice in the Manu lowlands but always unresponsive.

Golden-green Woodpecker Piculus chrysochloros: One individual was seen pretty well in the same flock as the previous species at Manu Wildlife Centre.

Golden-olive Woodpecker Piculus rubiginosus: We had a good sighting of a pair from the Cosñipata valley near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.

Crimson-mantled Woodpecker Colaptes rivolii: We were treated to a really nice view of this handsome woodpecker en route to the Acjanacu pass on our second day.

Spot-breasted Woodpecker (S-b Flicker) Colaptes punctigula: A real crowd-pleaser as soon as we stepped off the bus to bird the Puerto Maldonado environs.

Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola: We first saw two individuals at Laguna Huacarpay and two more were seen during the journey to Pillahuata. This woodpecker is restricted to the arid puna zone from Northern Peru to Northern Chile and northwest Argentina. Here we saw the race puno.

Scale-breasted Woodpecker (Scaly-b W) Celeus grammicus: Two separate sightings, the first from one of our full days at Romero Lodge and we later saw two on the Manu Wildlife Centre trails.

Cream-coloured Woodpecker Celeus flavus: One of the most distinctive of the genus, a male was seen well during one of our walks to the Romero Lodge.

Rufous-headed Woodpecker Celeus spectabilis: At Pantiacolla a bird perched out at the edge of the trail giving a few of us brilliant views whilst others did not fare so well.

Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus: Several sightings from Amazonía, Romero and the Cocha Camungo tower. A relative of the Pileated Woodpecker D. pileatus of North America, and the Black Woodpecker D. martius in Europe.

Red-necked Woodpecker Campephilus rubricollis: A single was first seen briefly at Romero but we followed this up with a really good sighting at the Antthrush trail on our last day at Manu.

Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucus: A total of 8 seen. In southeast Peru, most often found in riverine forest and floodplain forest bordering oxbow lakes.

FURNARIIDAE Black-tailed Leaftosser (B-t Leafscraper) Sclerurus caudacutus (H): At Manu Wildlife Centre we had a

bird call from quite close one evening but strangely it gave no response. Coastal Miner Geositta peruviana: Excellent views of this endemic in the desert north of Lima.

Miners are so called because of their habit of nesting in holes dug in the ground (like earthcreepers). A bit reminiscent of a small lark and filling a comparable niche.

Slender-billed Miner Geositta tenuirostris: We had excellent views of a vocalising bird in the Cusco highlands en route to Manu.

Greyish Miner Geositta maritima: At Lomas de Lachay we saw several singles and then a group of at least 4 foraging together on the barren, stony slopes.

Thick-billed Miner Geositta crassirostris: We had very good scope views of this speciality at Lomas de Lachay, a restricted-range Peruvian endemic.

Cream-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes albiventris: Good studies of two birds during our journey through the highlands on the second day. The albiventris group of Peru, Bolivia, northern Chile and northwest Argentina as well as the albidiventris group (Chestnut-winged Cinclodes) of the northern Andes were recently given full species status by the SACC.


White-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes atacamensis: We had nice studies of this cinclodes near a stream during our journey through the Cusco highlands.

Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus: Great looks at this charismatic bird, here of the race tricolor of the nominate group. Horneros build domed, earthen nests resembling primitive clay ovens from which the family takes its vernacular name (horno in Spanish).

Wren-like Rushbird Phleocryptes melanops: We had good views of two birds at Huacarpay Lake on our first day.

Puna Thistletail Schizoeaca helleri: A bit of a mixed bag with some seeing the bird quite well but with many of us struggling to see a skulking bird. A near-endemic that barely creeps into Bolivia.

Azara’s Spinetail Synallaxis azarae: A common cloud forest edge bird which we saw incredibly well along the Manu road, here of the race urubambae, named after the river running through the Sacred Valley and below Machu Picchu. Birds in this genus are typically skulkers of brushy edges, shrubby areas and/or forest understorey.

Dark-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis albigularis: Another skulking spinetail which only around half of us were able to see along the lower Manu road.

Cabanis’s Spinetail Synallaxis cabanisi: Seen on two separate occasions in lowland and foothill Guadua bamboo. This species is mostly confined to Peru and western Bolivia.

Plain-crowned Spinetail Synallaxis gujanensis: Great views of a pair which had a large stick nest in the lodge clearing at Amazonía Lodge. Here of the race canipileus, more than one species probably being involved.

Marcapata Spinetail Cranioleuca albicapilla: This attractive endemic was seen extremely well at Pillahuata. Unlike Synallaxis spinetails, members of this genus are typically arboreal.

Creamy-crested Spinetail Cranioleuca albicapilla: A handsome endemic of southern Peru’s arid inter-montane valleys, seen beautifully above Paucartambo. Classified as Vulnerable.

Plain Softtail Phacellodomus fusciceps: A pair of this vine-loving furnariid obliged very well at Amazonía Lodge.

Rusty-fronted Canastero Asthenes ottonis: After some vocal exchange with a first pair we had brilliant views of a second pair of this restricted-range, Peruvian endemic in the xeric scrub around Huacarpay Lake.

Cactus Canastero Asthenes cactorum: A Peruvian endemic discovered and described by Maria Koepcke which saw at Reserva Nacional Lomas de Lachay.

Streak-fronted Thornbird Phacellodomus striaticeps: This sneaky species performed beautifully for us perched incredibly close preening in a small tree for ages at Huacarpay Lake.

Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger: A most handsome cloudforest denizen, seen a few times in mixed flocks at higher elevations.

Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii: Seen well on two separate occasions in the Manu cloud forest.

Point-tailed Palmcreeper Berlepschia rikeri: This Moriche palm specialist was another great performer sitting out for ages in its favoured palm near Puerto Maldonado.

Montane Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia striaticollis: This buffy spectacled furnariid was common in cloud forest mixed flocks.

Peruvian Recurvebill Simoxenops ucayalae: Several in our group had great success with this species whilst others did not see the bill. Named after the Ucayali River, one of the major tributaries of the Amazon and an important dispersal barrier. Classified as Near-Threatened.

Chestnut-winged Hookbill Ancistrops strigilatus: A calling bird at Manu Wildlife Centre showed well with a mixed-flock.

Eastern Woodhaunter Hyloctistes subulatus: We were pleased to see one individual rather well at Manu Wildlife Centre.

Rufous-tailed Foliage-gleaner Philydor ruficaudatum: Two separate birds showed really well during our walks to Romero.


Rufous-rumped Foliage-gleaner Philydor erythrocercum: Excellent views of two separate birds even through the scope during our birding at Romero in Manu National Park.

Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaner Philydor erythropterus: A mixed flock species that we all saw in the subcanopy flock on the grid at Manu Wildlife Centre and later seen brilliantly from the canopy.

Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Philydor rufum: Two were first seen along the lower Manu road and later we saw a third in its favoured riverine habitat along the Rio Manu.

Dusky-cheeked Foliage-gleaner (Bamboo F-g) Anabazenops dorsalis: One along the Manu was difficult, never really giving us tickable views.

Black-billed Treehunter Thripadectes melanorhynchus: Another difficult furnariid we encountered along the Manu road giving rather poor perched and flight views.

Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner Automolus ochrolaemus (H): Several were heard in the Manu lowlands.

Olive-backed Foliage-gleaner Automolus infuscatus: We had good luck in seeing one bird rather well at Pantiacolla Lodge.

Brown-rumped Foliage-gleaner Automolus melanopezus: An uncommon species which we had surprisingly good views of at Pantiacolla.

Ruddy Foliage-gleaner Automolus rubiginosus: A shy bird that was seen fairly well by those who persevered in the muddy off-trail effort into the bamboo patch.

Chestnut-crowned Foliage-gleaner Automolus rufipileatus: A few encounters with birds who were unwilling to show well.

Slender-billed Xenops Xenops tenuirostris: This floodplain species was seen well by all at Amazonía Lodge.

Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans: One showed well near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge and during the extension we had good views below Machu Picchu.

Plain-brown Woodcreeper Dendrocincla fuliginosa (H): One was seen well at an antswarm at Amazonía and a second was seen at Cocha Camungo.

Long-tailed Woodcreeper Deconychura longicauda: A distinctively shaped Woodcreeper seen twice at Manu Wildlife Centre, here the race pallida. Watch for a future split in this one!

Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus: Several sightings from the Manu lowlands, here of the race amazonus. Within this widespread species complex there are thought to be five subspecies groups that possibly deserve separate species status.

Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus: Several sightings from the lowlands of this cosmopolitan woodcreeper.

Long-billed Woodcreeper Nasica longirostris: Some fairly good looks at this species during our first walk from Romero Lodge inside Manu National Park.

Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper Dendrexetastes rufigula: The bird that gets the dawn chorus cranking at Amazonía Lodge where we saw them in the garden daily.

Amazonian Barred-Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes certhia: We all had good views of this species on our second day birding on the trail near Romero Rainforest Lodge in Manu National Park.

Black-banded Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes picumnus: Two excellent sightings at Amazonía Lodge including one visiting an antswarm.

Straight-billed Woodcreeper Dendroplex picus: We first saw this species en route to Romero Lodge and a second was seen in the Puerto Maldonado area.

Juruá Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus juruanus: We had nice close-ups of two different birds whilst birding near Romero Rainforest Lodge inside Manu National Park. Four of the largest rivers in the Amazon basin start as streams in the low foothills of the Fitzcarrald Arch in south-eastern Peru- the Madeira, Ucayali, Juruá and Ucayali.

Lafresnaye’s Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus guttatoides: We saw this species on a number of occasions and heard it even more frequently.

Olive-backed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus triangularis: We saw three birds during our cloud forest birding along the Manu road.


Montane Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger: As usual this species was more common than the previous species in the upper cloud forests.

Lineated Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes albolineatus: We were fortunate to see our only bird from the ground at Romero as this normally canopy loving species was not seen again.

Red-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus trochilirostris: We had good luck with this species both along the Manu road and later on the trails from Romero Lodge. In southern Peru, this species is found mostly in bamboo, here likely the race devius.

THAMNOPHILIDAE Fasciated Antshrike Cymbilaimus lineatus (H): One heard-only record from Romero from which we

didn’t get much of a response. Bamboo Antshrike Cymbilaimus sanctaemariae: We had good views of a pair of this specialist from

the Manu road and a third was seen at Pantiacolla. A southwest Amazonían endemic, it was originally described as an obscure subspecies of the previous, until ‘Fasciated Antshrikes’ with a totally different song were found in dense bamboo stands in se Peru, within walking distance of regularly sounding Fasciated Antshrikes in their typical tree fall/vine habitat!

Great Antshrike Taraba major: A half-dozen sightings of this spectacular antshrike, here of the upper Amazonían subspecies melanurus.

Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus: We first enjoyed this versatile species from the Blanquillo hide and later we had good views in second-growth near Puerto Maldonado.

Chestnut-backed Antshrike Thamnophilus palliatus: A pair at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge made quite an impression.

Plain-winged Antshrike (Black-capped A) Thamnophilus schistaceus: A common species by voice and one that we had good views of at Amazonía Lodge. The new name is preferable over the old one since over large portions of its range males do not have any black in the crown at all, including those in Manu, which are of the nominate race.

Dusky-throated Antshrike Thamnomanes ardesiacus: Several encounters in mixed understorey flocks at Romero, though not as numerous as the next species. Here the nominate race, where the male’s black on the throat is often absent, making it visually identical to the next species. However voice and female plumage are very distinct.

Bluish-slate Antshrike Thamnomanes schistogynus: Regular sightings. The notorious leader of the roving understorey flocks of the Amazonían lowlands, and a geographic replacement of the closely related Cinereous Antshrike, which is the flock leader at e.g. Ecuador’s La Selva.

Spot-winged Antshrike Pygiptila stellaris: The only canopy antshrike in the lowlands, seen on at least two occasions at Romero and Manu Wildlife Centre.

Stipple-throated Antwren Epinecrophylla haematonota (H): At Manu Wildlife Centre we had an aural encounter at a known territory but oddly it would not come in.

Ornate Antwren Epinecrophylla ornata: Up to 3 birds were seen in the bamboo below Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge with most of us eventually getting a good view.

Rufous-tailed Antwren Epinecrophylla erythrura: This attractive antwren was seen rather well in mixed flocks up in Amazonía’s hill forest.

Pygmy Antwren Myrmotherula brachyura: This almost-tailless, subcanopy antwren was first seen well at Amazonía and was later seen several times in the Manu lowlands. Differs from the following species in its foraging height (Pygmy always lower) and its white throat.

Sclater’s Antwren Myrmotherula sclateri: We had somewhat distant views of one bird in the canopy at Romero. One of several birds named after Philip Sclater, an English zoologist who set up the six zoogeographical regions (Palaearctic, Nearctic, etc.) still in use today and whose publications include Argentine Ornithology (1888-89).

Amazonían Streaked-Antwren Myrmotherula multostriata (H): This species was only heard in its preferred oxbow lake tangles. Botanists are now learning that the oxbow lake flora is actually a very specialized plant community with many species found nowhere else.


Stripe-chested Antwren Myrmotherula longicauda: A foothill relative of the previous, seen nicely below Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.

Plain-throated Antwren Myrmotherula hauxwelli: Small numbers of this distinctive antwren were seen and heard. Of all the Amazonian antwrens, the one that lives closest to the ground.

White-flanked Antwren Myrmotherula axillaris: At Romero this common member of mixed flocks proved to be one of the birds-of-the-trip with a wing-pumping call display that left us all very impressed!

Long-winged Antwren Myrmotherula longipennis: Very responsive and excellent views at Amazonía and elsewhere. A species exhibiting a fair bit of geographic variation, as so often more so in female than in male plumage. Here the race garbei.

Ihering’s Antwren Myrmotherula iheringi: We all had excellent views of this localized antwren in the Manu lowlands.

Grey Antwren Myrmotherula menetriesii: We had at least 8 sightings of this drab but common antwren of mid-levels. Here the nominate race, in males usually showing a variable black throat patch (unlike e.g. Ecuadorian birds which have no black on the throat).

Banded Antbird (B Antwren) Dichrozona cincta: Another tour highlight was seeing this delicate understorey antwren perched up on a log at Romero.

Yellow-breasted Antwren Herpsilochmus axillaris: Several of us saw a vocalizing bird in a mixed flock below Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.

Dot-winged Antwren Microrhopias quixensis: One of the prettier antwrens, named after the Rio Quijos in Ecuador. Also this one shows a fair amount of geographical variation, birds in the Manu region being of the race albicauda.

Striated Antbird Drymophila devillei: A cooperative and very elegant bamboo denizen. Peruvian Warbling-Antbird Hypocnemis peruviana: This was the white-breasted form seen by most

of us in the forest interior of Manu Wildlife Centre. Yellow-breasted Warbling-Antbird Hypocnemis subflava: We saw this yellow-bellied species on

several occasions in the Manu lowlands, always in bamboo. Chestnut-shouldered Antwren Terenura humeralis: Difficult but identifiable canopy views for some

of us at Romero. Yellow-rumped Antwren Terenura sharpei: Another difficult sighting of a canopy bird only just seen

by a few of us out during siesta time at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. Grey Antbird Cercomacra cinerascens: A bird of mid-storey vine tangles, eventually surrendering at

Romero but only for some. Here the race sclateri, with prominent white wing-covert spotting.

Riparian Antbird Cercomacra fuscicauda (H): We heard this lowland form on the bamboo trail of Manu Wildlife Centre; it is often lumped with vocally distinct Andean foothill forms as Blackish Antbird C. nigrescens.

Black Antbird Cercomacra serva (H): Heard in thickets along the Manu road. Manu Antbird Cercomacra manu: Good views of this bamboo specialist, a species only recently

described from this area, but now found locally in bamboo in Bolivia and Brazil. This antbird is one of the 6 obligate bamboo users in southeast Peru, where in total there are 19 species of birds considered to be bamboo-specialists, all varying in their dependence on bamboo. Many of these have sister taxa in southeast Brazil which are also bamboo specialists, suggesting that this specialization may have evolved when the two areas were connected by bamboo during the Miocene. Through satellite imagery we know that in southeast Peru, bamboo forests cover more than 180,000 sq. km., an area three times the size of Costa Rica.

White-backed Fire-eye Pyriglena leuconota: We all eventually saw this understorey skulker below Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. Here of the race marcapatensis, in the maura subspecies group, more than one species may be involved.

White-browed Antbird Myrmoborus leucophrys: We all had great looks at this stunning antbird from the Manu road. Their staccato like song was heard daily in the Manu lowlands.


Black-faced Antbird Myrmoborus myotherinus: This species was very confiding this year, with superb looks at a pair in the forests of Manu National Park. Another geographically variable species, with more than one species possibly being involved; here the nominate race.

Band-tailed Antbird Hypocnemoides maculicauda: A welcome sighting at Amazonía Lodge of a responsive bird. An antbird that rarely strays from humid areas and bodies of water.

Silvered Antbird Sclateria naevia: A calling male at Amazonía Lodge was difficult to see yet strangely was the only sighting this year. This antbird occupies low hanging branches and vegetation at oxbow-lake margins and is rarely found away from the edge of water.

White-lined Antbird Percnostola lophotes: Good looks at both sexes of this restricted-range, southeast Peru near-endemic. Until just a few decades ago the female of this species was known as the Rufous-crested Antbird P. macrolopha, a nice illustration of how Peruvian ornithology emerged out of the dark ages in the seventies and eighties. A SE Peru near-endemic.

Chestnut-tailed Antbird (Southern Chestnut-tailed A) Myrmeciza hemimelaena: We did fairly well with this skulker on our first attempt at Amazonía Lodge.

Black-throated Antbird Myrmeciza atrothorax: Not until Puerto Maldonado did we all eventually catch up with this species thanks to a very cooperative bird in gallery forest.

Goeldi’s Antbird Myrmeciza goeldii: We had good views of a male at Amazonía Lodge followed by two more sightings in the Manu lowlands. In this restricted-range species both song and male plumage are quite similar to that of the White-shouldered Antbirds (M. melanoceps), which it replaces southward. Females differ dramatically though.

Plumbeous Antbird Myrmeciza hyperythra: We had little trouble seeing this handsome antbird in the Manu lowlands with three pairs seen.

Sooty Antbird Myrmeciza fortis: Three birds were seen in all at Manu Wildlife Centre with most folks having success with the third bird.

White-throated Antbird Gymnopithys salvini: We had repeated good looks at a pair of this species at Manu Wildlife Centre. Named after the 19th century ornithologist, Osbert Salvin of the British Museum.

Spot-backed Antbird Hylophylax naevia: This antbird came rather easily to us near an antswarm at Amazonía Lodge.

Scale-backed Antbird Hylophylax poecilonota: A pair showed brilliantly for us in the understorey of Manu National Park.

Black-spotted Bare-eye Phlegopsis nigromaculata: A regular attendee at army-ant swarms seen rather well near Amazonía Lodge.

FORMICARIIDAE Rufous-capped Antthrush Formicarius colma: A very obliging bird at Romero walked across an open

gap in the forest for lovely views. Genetic data shows that Formicarius and Chamaeza antthrushes are in fact more closely related to furnariids and tapaculos than to the antbirds!

Black-faced Antthrush Formicarius analis: The most abundant of the lowland antthrush species with a total of 5 birds seen. More than one species may be involved.

Rufous-fronted Antthrush Formicarius rufifrons: Several of us had quite good views of one of the two birds which showed fairly well walking on the forest floor albeit in cover. This Peruvian near-endemic is restricted-range species and classified as Near-Threatened. First described in 1957 and only discovered in life by the late Ted Parker 25 years later. Known only from a handful of localities, this species inhabits Heliconia dominated river edges and will usually leave an area once this successional habitat ages.

Rufous-breasted Antthrush Formicarius rufipectus (H): At least three distant heard encounters in the Manu cloud forest.

Barred Antthrush Chamaeza mollissima (H): We gave it a good effort climbing far up a treacherous, slippery stream to find a calling bird only to have it fall silent.


GRALLARIIDAE Scaled Antpitta Grallaria guatimalensis (H): Always too distant for even a lucky break. Genetic data

call for Grallaria to be placed in its own family, separate from Formicarius and Chamaeza.

White-throated Antpitta Grallaria albigula (H): One bird was heard-only in rank undergrowth at middle elevations in the cloud forest.

Red-and-white Antpitta Grallaria erythroleuca: A good sighting for Richard and also seen by Michael but the rest struggled to see this bird in the bamboo.

Rufous Antpitta Grallaria rufula (H): We heard one in deep cover which proved impossible to see, here the race occabambae.

Amazonian Antpitta Hylopezus berlepschi: This species eventually showed quite well at Amazonía Lodge on our first morning there. We all had to do a bit of body-contorting but amazingly the bird just stood there for the longest time which we were very grateful for. Named for Hans Hermann Carl Ludwig Von Berlepsch (1850-1915), a German ornithologist who sponsored several expeditions to South America.

Thrush-like Antpitta Myrmothera campanisona (H): At Amazonía Lodge this one was always too far or too deep!

CONOPOPHAGIDAE Slaty Gnateater Conopophaga ardesiaca: We saw a pair of this skulker very well in the cloud forest

understory. RHINOCRYPTIDAE Rusty-belted Tapaculo Liosceles thoracicus: One individual was fairly obliging for most of us at

Amazonía Lodge. Trilling Tapaculo (Grey T) Scytalopus parvirostris: Most of us had at least some sort of tickable view

in the upper Manu cloud forest. White-crowned Tapaculo (Northern White-crowned T) Scytalopus atratus: One sighting above Cock-

of-the-Rock Lodge which most of us managed to see. Recent analysis has shown that Manu birds are more closely allied to the Northern White-crowned rather than Bolivian (Southern White-crowned T) birds, S. bolivianus, which occur north only to Puno. However, look for the northern birds to be further split once their relationships are better understood (a real taxonomic conundrum).

TYRANNIDAE Sclater's Tyrannulet Phyllomyias sclateri: Good views of up to six individuals in the forest below

Machu Picchu during the extension. Ashy-headed Tyrannulet Phyllomyias cinereiceps: We did quite well with this species towards the

end of our birding at Aguas Calientes. Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet Tyrannulus elatus: A few sightings at Amazonía Lodge and the Manu

lowlands. Forest Elaenia Myiopagis gaimardii: Common by voice, with at least 4 sightings between Romero and

Manu Wildlife Centre. Large Elaenia Elaenia spectabilis: We all had good views in the scope of this austral migrant at our

lunch stop en route to Amazonía. White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps: Several were seen well at Huacarpay Lake, here either the

coastal modesta or the more local urubambensis. Mottle-backed Elaenia Elaenia gigas: Good views of one bird on the shores of the upper Madre de

Dios. Highland Elaenia Elaenia obscura: One individual of this species was seen in the Manu temperate

forest where it is a rather uncommon bird. Sierran Elaenia Elaenia pallatangae: Fairly common at upper elevations, here the race intensa.


White-lored Tyrannulet Ornithion inerme: We all had excellent views of this species at Amazonía Lodge.

White-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus: Regular with mixed flocks in the temperate zone, here of the race taeniopterus.

White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys: Frequent encounters at higher elevations, of the subspecies brunneomarginatus.

Torrent Tyrannulet Serpophaga cinerea: Two were seen along the Río Urubamba during the extension.

Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina: One in the open country outside of Puerto Maldonado was seen near the bus.

Hazel-fronted Pygmy-Tyrant Pseudotriccus simplex: This difficult bird performed rather well along the Manu road. A Birdquest lifer!

Ringed Antpipit Corythopis torquata: We had a few good sightings of this weird, terrestrial flycatcher in the Manu lowlands.

Bolivian Tyrannulet Zimmerius bolivianus: We had a very good sighting of this restricted-range species in the Manu cloud forest. A rather drab cloud forest bird, whose Middle American congener is named the Paltry Tyrannulet. A genus named in honour of John Zimmer (1889-1957), an American ornithologist who undertook some intrepid expeditions into unexplored regions of Peru and on which he based his monumental “Studies of Peruvian Birds” (1931).

Slender-footed Tyrannulet Zimmerius gracilipes: Two good sightings of this forest bird at Amazonía Lodge.

Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant Phylloscartes ophthalmicus: Seen on several different days in the cloud forest near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge, here of the rather distinct subspecies ottonis.

Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet Phylloscartes ventralis: We found this species to be fairly common below Machu Picchu.

Cinnamon-faced Tyrannulet Phylloscartes parkeri: Two different birds were seen near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. Only described about twelve years ago, the type specimen was collected from the hill forest behind Amazonía Lodge. This canopy species is confined to the forested foothills of southeast Peru and immediately adjacent Bolivia.

Streak-necked Flycatcher Mionectes striaticollis: A common sight in the cloud forest, this genus of frugivorous flycatchers forms loose lek displays consisting of nervous wing-twitches and monotonous songs.

Olive-striped Flycatcher Mionectes olivaceus: Just one seen in the Manu foothills. Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleaginous (LO): One leader-only sighting at Manu Wildlife

Centre. McConnell’s Flycatcher Mionectes macconnelli (NL): One bird was seen well by Richard at

Amazonía Lodge. Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus: An often hard to see understorey flycatcher

which we saw at Amazonía as well as Manu Wildlife Centre. Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris: Good views near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge, here of

the southernmost and distinctive race albidiventer. More than one species may be involved.

Inca Flycatcher Leptopogon taczanowskii: Another restricted-range endemic which we saw very well in the cloud forest as a core member of a mixed flock above Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. Members of this genus build a fibrous hanging nest lined with a thick layer of balsa or ceiba (kapok) cotton. This one named after Wladyslaw Taczanowski, a renowned Polish zoologist and author of Ornithology of Peru 1884-1886.

Ornate Flycatcher Myiotriccus ornatus (H): A distant calling bird in the Manu foothills stayed distant. Many-coloured Rush Tyrant Tachuris rubrigastra: We all saw this stunning bird at Huacarpay Lake.

Not all New World flycatchers are drab jobs!


Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant Myiornis ecaudatus: Two at Pantiacolla Lodge seen on separate days were fairly obliging. The world’s smallest passerine, together with the closely related Black-capped Pygmy-tyrant M. atricapillus.

Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus: A handful of sightings near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge, here of the race hypochlorus.

Long-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus eulophotes: Two individuals were seen quite well at separate territories on separate days in Manu National Park.

Flammulated Pygmy-Tyrant (F Bamboo-T) Hemitriccus flammulatus: Only a few of us managed to see the devilish ‘flam-bam’ along the Manu road.

White-bellied Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus griseipectus: It took us a bit to spot it but eventually we all had good scope views of one in the subcanopy of Manu National Park.

Johannes’s Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus iohannis: This handsome little flycatcher made an early but welcome appearance along the Manu road. Named after a certain John, an otherwise unknown collector on the Museum Goeldi expedition to the Rio Purús region of Brazil in 1904.

Black-throated Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus granadensis: This diminutive cloud forest flycatcher responded very well to playback allowing us all to have good views at Wayqecha.

White-cheeked Tody-Tyrant Poecilotriccus albifacies: A great result this tour for everyone, with a total of three birds of this bamboo speciality showing well.

Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher Poecilotriccus plumbeiceps: This delightful cloud forest bird was one of the highlights at Rocotal.

Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher Poecilotriccus latirostre (H): Heard-only from the Manu lowlands. Black-backed Tody-Flycatcher Poecilotriccus pulchellus: We were able to see two different birds in

the Manu lowlands allowing everyone a very nice view of this endemic, restricted-range bird.

Spotted Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum maculatum: Two were first seen along the Rio Manu and two more were seen during our walk to Blanquillo.

Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum chrysocrotaphum: A regularly heard but hard to see canopy dweller, we had good views of one on a low perch during our lunch stop en route to Amazonía Lodge. Here the subspecies neglectum, solid yellow below without any black streaking.

Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens: Seen by just a couple of us along the road below Machu Picchu .

Zimmer’s Flycatcher Tolmomyias assimilis: This forest canopy species was seen by a few of us straining our necks at Romero in Manu National Park.

Grey-crowned Flycatcher (G-c Flatbill) Tolmomyias poliocephalus: Quite a few individuals inhabit the second growth woodland around Amazonía Lodge.

Olive-faced Flycatcher (O-f Flatbill) Tolmomyias viridiceps: A vocal individual showed quite well during the journey down to Amazonía Lodge.

Golden-crowned Spadebill Platyrinchus coronatus: This odd little flycatcher was seen a couple of times in Manu National Park.

White-crested Spadebill Platyrinchus platyrhynchos: It played hard to get for a fair bit but eventually we all caught up with this smart looking understorey denizen at Romero Lodge.

Amazonian Royal Flycatcher Onychorhynchus coronatus (H): One was heard at Amazonía Lodge not far from the lodge clearing, a first record for me of this species at the lodge.

Unadorned Flycatcher Myiophobus inornatus: This sometimes tricky Manu speciality gave us some superb looks in the Manu cloud forest.

Handsome Flycatcher Myiophobus pulcher: One was seen well with Inca Flycatcher in a cloud forest mixed flock (from the bridge), here of the widely disjunct southern race oblitus.

Bran-coloured Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus: We had good views of this open country bird during our lunch stop en route to Amazonía Lodge.

Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher Terenotriccus erythrurus: An opportune sighting enjoyed by all at Manu Wildlife Centre.


Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea: A ubiquitous cloud forest flycatcher, of the nominate race.

Euler’s Flycatcher Lathrotriccus euleri: We all had excellent views of this austral migrant in the floodplain forest of Manu Wildlife Centre.

Fuscous Flycatcher Cnemotriccus fuscatus (H): At least two heard during our Manu Wildlife Centre bamboo efforts, here of the race fuscatior.

Olive Flycatcher (O-tufted F, O Tufted-F) Mitrephanes olivaceus: We had good scope studies of a bird inside the forest at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.

Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans: Several pairs were seen in river beds at middle elevations. Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus: At least a dozen were seen in the Manu lowlands. Birds

here are all austral migrants, i.e. birds breeding in southern South America. White-winged Black-Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus: A female was seen in the Manu temperate forest

and a male at Machu Picchu, here of the race anthracinus. Drab Water-Tyrant Ochthornis littoralis: An abundant flycatcher along the lowland rivers. Little Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola fluviatilis: This much requested bird was seen well at the

Pantiacolla macaw clay lick and more were seen at Blanquillo. Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola maculirostris: Two were seen well during our travel day

through the Cusco highlands to the Manu. Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant Myiotheretes striaticollis: One was scoped for fairly good views at

Wayqecha. Rufous-webbed Bush-Tyrant Polioxolmis rufipennis: This rather smart looking tyrant was a nice

addition from the Cusco highlands en route to Manu. Golden-browed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca pulchella: This species was a highlight of our Wayqecha

cloud forest birding. Maroon-chested Chat-Tyrant (M-belted C-T, Chestnut-b C-T) Ochthoeca thoracica: Magnificent

close-ups of a very obliging bird in the cloud forest. Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis: One was seen by all on our walk below

Wayqecha. This chat-tyrant is usually more common along the upper Manu road, where of the race tectricialis.

Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca fumicolor: A few birds were seen near below the Acjanaco pass. Here the southernmost, white-browed and grey-crowned race berlepschi.

White-browed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca leucophrys: Up to 6 at Huacarpay. Short-tailed Field-Tyrant Muscigralla brevicauda: We had a good view of one at Lomas de Lachay

during the extension. Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis: Numerous in the lowlands and lower foothills. Grey-capped Flycatcher Myiozetetes granadensis: A fairly common bird at Amazonía Lodge and also

seen out in the Manu lowlands. Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus: This cosmopolitan species was seen often along the river

margins. Lesser Kiskadee Philohydor lictor: This bird of lake and (to a lesser extent) river edges was easily seen

at Cocha Camungo and Cocha Blanco. Formerly in the genus Pitangus, this species was enjoyed a short period in its own monotypic genus Philohydor, based on its different syrinx and its cup-shaped nest, the latter very different from the Great Kiskadee’s large globular nest with a side entrance. However, once again it has been placed back in Pitangus by the SACC awaiting molecular analysis.

Lemon-browed Flycatcher Conopias cinchoneti: We had good scope views of this noisy upper foothill speciality thanks to Gwen’s good spotting.

Golden-crowned Flycatcher Myiodynastes chrysocephalus (LO): Just one brief leader-only sighting from Manu and otherwise heard below Machu Picchu.

Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus: Several sightings, ranging from as high as Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge down into the Manu lowlands.

Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua: Heard and seen at several sites ranging from the lower Manu Road, Amazonía Lodge and Puerto Maldonado.


Crowned Slaty-Flycatcher Empidonomus aurantioatrocristatus: One was spotted by the group at Cocha Blanco for good views of this austral migrant.

Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus: Numerous. Greyish Mourner Rhytipterna simplex: Good looks at this miniature replica of the Screaming Piha

during our trail birding at Romero. Eastern Sirystes Sirystes sibilator: A friendly bird in the Cocha Camungo canopy tree was with us for

nearly our entire session there. Swainson’s Flycatcher Myiarchus swainsoni: An austral migrant that gave us super views in the

canopy at Cocha Camungo. Named for William Swainson (1789-1855), an English artist who was the first to use lithography in bird book illustration and whose works include A Selection of the Birds of Brazil and Mexico (1841).

Short-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus ferox: Just one sighting, from Amazonía Lodge. Large-headed Flatbill Ramphotrigon megacephala: Good views of this species from Pantiacolla’s

bamboo. Rufous-tailed Flatbill Ramphotrigon ruficauda: We had a particularly good look at this species at

Manu Wildlife Centre. Dusky-tailed Flatbill Ramphotrigon fuscicauda: We had good luck with this one year, with decent

views at Pantiacolla and improved looks in Manu National Park. Dull-capped Attila (White-eyed A) Attila bolivianus: Very conspicuous by voice (heard almost daily

in the Manu lowlands), this smart attila showed very well at the Moriche palm grove we visited near Puerto Maldonado.

Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus: A single sighting for the group from Manu Wildlife Centre. COTINGIDAE Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristatus: Several good looks at around 6 of this species at upper

elevation in the cloud forest. Barred Fruiteater Pipreola arcuata: Three birds were seen quite well on separate days in the area of

Pillahuata. Masked Fruiteater Pipreola pulchra: A bird that was seen by myself and Richard at Machu Picchu. Andean Cock-of-the-rock Rupicola peruviana: At Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge, the landslide from last

year’s heavy rains had forced the lek to move from its very convenient roadside location to a new site nearby located in the forest. A single male came in to the old lek to show his stuff and then went back and forth between the leks to show he was the boss (or not?). Hopefully the lodge will relocate the hide to view the new lek site.

Plum-throated Cotinga Cotinga maynana: Brilliant views of a male from the Amazonía Lodge tower. Screaming Piha Lipaugus vociferans: Eventually we caught up with an obliging bird blasting its

decibels from a display perch at Manu Wildlife Centre. Bare-necked Fruitcrow Gymnoderus foetidus: An odd cotinga that we saw on five different days in

the Manu lowlands. Purple-throated Fruitcrow Querula purpurata: We saw the throat colour nicely on calling males on

our first morning out inside Manu National Park. PIPRIDAE Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin Tyranneutes stolzmanni: Good views of this species through the scope in

Manu National Park, sometimes difficult to see, but very common by voice. Named after Jean Stanislaus Stolzmann (1854-1928), a Polish ornithologist. In 1871 he travelled to Peru on behalf of the zoological museum of Warsaw University.

Fiery-capped Manakin Machaeropterus pyrocephalus: A phantom-like little bird we all saw at . Blue-backed Manakin Chiroxiphia pareola: It took a bit of effort but we all eventually saw this

species along the terra firme trail at Manu Wildlife Centre. Here the yellow-crowned race regina.

Yungas Manakin Chiroxiphia boliviana: This restricted-range species was surprisingly obliging below Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge this year.


Band-tailed Manakin Pipra fasciicauda: We saw a gorgeous male at Amazonía Lodge. Very nice. Round-tailed Manakin Pipra chloromeros: We had several good views of lekking males at Amazonía

Lodge and also Manu Wildlife Centre. TITYRIDAE Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor: A pair of this often uncommon bird was seen at Manu

Wildlife Centre. Black-tailed Tityra Tityra cayana: Both males and females were numerous in the Manu lowlands,

here the nominate race. Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata: Several sightings from the Manu lowlands. Greater Schiffornis (Varzea Schiffornis, V Mourner) Schiffornis major: We all had an excellent look at

this species near Romero Lodge. This genus was formerly placed with the manakins, but morphological and genetic data place it in a group with tityras and becards.

Amazonian Schiffornis Schiffornis amazona (H): A bird called just once from the terra-firme but then stayed quiet.

Cinereous Mourner Laniocera hypopyrra: One at Manu Wildlife Centre was fairly cooperative showing well in the scope.

White-browed Purpletuft Iodopleura isabellae: Two birds were seen very well in our Cocha Camungo canopy tree.

Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor: A male of this species appeared and then disappeared in a busy flock during our Pillahuata cloud forest birding.

White-winged Becard Pachyramphus polychopterus: A few encounters with the Amazonían race nigriventris, the males of which are nearly all black, apart from the white on the wings.

Pink-throated Becard Pachyramphus minor: Both sexes were seen well including the smart-looking male from the rich floodplain forest of Manu Wildlife Centre.

Wing-barred Piprites (Wing-b Manakin) Piprites chloris (H): At Manu Wildlife Centre we heard two birds but never succeeded in finding its perch.

VIREONIDAE Brown-capped Vireo Vireo leucophrys: Three were seen along the road below Machu Picchu. Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus: Somewhat common at Amazonía Lodge and below Machu Picchu. Dusky-capped Greenlet Hylophilus hypoxanthus (H): A nuclear species of lowland canopy flocks,

but unfortunately we encountered very little flock activity from the towers. Tawny-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus ochraceiceps: A retiring species, heard regularly, and seen on

two occasions in the mixed flock in Amazonía’s hill forest and at Manu Wildlife Centre. CORVIDAE White-collared Jay Cyanolyca viridicyanus: We had some really great views of this beautiful cloud

forest jay in the upper elevations of Manu. Note the correct spelling of the specific name. Violaceous Jay Cyanocorax violaceus: This species was commonly observed at Amazonía Lodge as

well as the Alto Rio Madre de Dios. Purplish Jay Cyanocorax cyanomelas: Good numbers (up to 25 on one day) were seen during our

boat travels on the Rio Alto Madre de Dios. Southeast Peru is the only place where the ranges of this and the previous species overlap.

Inca Jay Cyanocorax yncas (H): Strangely we never had this species close enough to the road at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.

HIRUNDINIDAE Blue-and-white Swallow Pygochelidon cyanoleuca: Several groups seen in the cloud forest as well as

around 100 along the coast. Brown-bellied Swallow Orochelidon murina: We had around 18 at various stops during the journey

up to Paucartambo. Note that the SACC recently resurrected Orochelidon.


White-banded Swallow Atticora fasciata: An elegant looking swallow that we enjoyed regularly in the lowlands.

Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis: Small numbers were seen fairly regularly in the lowlands.

Brown-chested Martin Phaeoprogne tapera: Numerous during our boat journeys on the Rio Manu and the Madre de Dios.

Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea: Small numbers seen on the Rio Madre de Dios. White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer: Numerous over rivers and oxbow lakes. TROGLODYTIDAE Scaly-breasted Wren (Southern Nightingale-Wren) Microcerculus marginatus: Most of us succeeded

in seeing this ear-splitting forest floor phantom in Manu National Park. Grey-mantled Wren Odontorchilus branickii: We had two separate sightings in the Kosñipata valley. Southern House Wren Troglodytes musculus: Scattered sightings in the highlands and lowlands. Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis: Three sightings of birds accompanying mixed flocks in the

cloud forest. Two races intergrade in the area, the Peruvian macrourus and the Bolivian frater.

Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus: A group of three birds was seen quite readily at Pantiacolla Lodge.

Inca Wren Thryothorus eisenmanni: A pair showed extremely well near the road below Machu Picchu. A restricted-range endemic. Named for Eugene Eisennmann (1906-1981), who made a tremendous contribution to Neotropical ornithology as a life-long research associate of the American Museum of Natural History.

Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis: Heard often but finally this skulker showed well in the bamboo near Manu Wildlife Centre.

Buff-breasted Wren Thryothorus leucotis: We had good views of this species on the outskirts of Puerto Maldonado.

Fulvous Wren Cinnycerthia fulva: We caught up with this specialty wren in the Manu cloud forest with a bit of perseverance.

Grey-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys: Good views of at least two birds in the cloud forest. Here the nominate race, more than one species likely being involved.

Chestnut-breasted Wren Cyphorhinus thoracicus: This one proved as difficult as ever with only a few of us glimpsing one bird below Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.

Musician Wren Cyphorhinus arada: Eventually we all had good looks at this sometimes shy species in Manu National Park.

POLIOPTILIDAE Half-collared Gnatwren Microbates cinereiventris: A family group at Amazonía Lodge showed fairly

well but as usual they moved quite quickly through the understorey. DONACOBIIDAE Black-capped Donacobius (B-c Mockingthrush) Donacobius atricapillus: Good views of this

charismatic bird at Amazonía Lodge, Romero and Cocha Camungo. Formerly included with the wrens, recent genetic data link it with the old world Sylvioidea, its closest relative family being the Megaluridae (grassbirds, etc).

CINCLIDAE White-capped Dipper Cinclus leucocephalus: Three sightings in total from the Manu cloud forest and

four additional birds were seen along the Urubamba River during the extension. TURDIDAE Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides (H): We heard several birds but never managed to find one on

its perch.


White-eared Solitaire Entomodestes leucotis (H): Likewise this secretive bird did not cooperate. Hauxwell’s Thrush Turdus hauxwelli: We all had good views of this species at Amazonía Lodge.

Named after John Hauxwell, an English ornithologist and collector who married an indigenous woman with whom he raised a family in the Amazon. His collection of avian specimens from the Ucayali and Huallaga River basins between 1850-1870 is highly regarded.

Black-billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis: A commonly observed thrush in clearings and edges in Manu. Great Thrush Turdus fuscater: Common at higher elevations in temperate cloud forest, here of the

darker race ockendeni. Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco: Especially numerous in the drier valleys east of Cuzco, here

the race conradi. Glossy-black Thrush Turdus serranus: We all had good views of a bird perched out at the forest edge

along the Manu road. White-necked Thrush Turdus albicollis: One showed briefly on our first afternoon at Manu Wildlife

Centre. MOTACILLIDAE Yellowish Pipit Anthus lutescens: Three birds showed well in display at Lomas de Lachay. THRAUPIDAE Red-capped Cardinal Paroaria gularis: Repeated encounters with this handsome edge-growth

dweller. Traditionally Paroaria was placed in Emberizidae next to the cardinal grosbeaks, which in the new taxonomy means they would actually be placed in the Cardinalidae. Recent genetic data indicate however they are tanagers!

Magpie Tanager Cissopis leveriana: A total of 15 birds seen over several days mostly in the Manu foothills in open, disturbed habitats.

Slaty Tanager Creurgops dentata: One of the specialty tanagers of the Manu road. We saw a pair well at middle elevations.

Parodi’s Hemispingus Hemispingus parodii (NL): A rare bird on the Manu road that was seen well by Richard.

Superciliaried Hemispingus Hemispingus superciliaris: Several encounters, here with the yellow-bellied race urubambae.

Black-eared Hemispingus Hemispingus melanotis: A smart hemispingus showing well in the cloud forests. A highly variable species, here of the subspecies berlepschi.

Rust-and-yellow Tanager Thlypopsis ruficeps (NL): A lovely little tanager that showed to the group as we first approached the humid forest near Acjanaco pass.

Black-goggled Tanager Thrichothraupis melanops: A typically slow moving bird gave us good views at Rocotal.

Tachyphonus cristatus: The smart male was seen by a few of us during an optional siesta-time outing at Manu Wildlife Centre.

Yellow-crested Tanager Tachyphonus rufiventer: A handsome speciality of south-western Amazonia, first seen from the Manu road and later seen again at Amazonía Lodge.

White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus: Several males and females seen in the lowlands. White-winged Shrike-Tanager Lanio versicolor: A persistent flock leader, easy to see as it perched in

the subcanopy of Amazonía Lodge’s hill forest. Masked Crimson Tanager Ramphocelus nigrogularis: Several encounters with this species and best of

all feeding on bananas at Amazonía Lodge. Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo: Common throughout the lowlands, all the way up the

Kosñipata valley to Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. Blue-grey Tanager Thraupis episcopus: Common. Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum: Regularly seen in the lowlands and foothills. Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala: Several sightings in the cloud forest of this large

tanager.


Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis: Six birds were seen in the dry habitat surrounding Huacarpay Lake.

Hooded Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis montana: The largest mountain-tanager in the area, showing beautifully.

Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus igniventris: A total of 15 of this stunner seen in the Manu cloud forest above Pillahuata.

Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus somptuosus: We had good views of a pair in a mixed flock near the mirador where we also heard the far-carrying song, here of the southern subspecies.

Grass-green Tanager Chlorornis riefferii: Two birds were seen brilliantly at Wayqecha. Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager Delothraupis castaneoventris: We caught up with this specialty

tanager at Pillahuata enjoying good views. Yellow-throated Tanager Iridosornis analis: A very handsome cloud forest tanager spotted by

François. Golden-collared Tanager Iridosornis jelskii: Wow! A pair posed at close range in the Manu cloud

forest. This one’s named after Konstanty Jelski, 19th century Polish zoologist and curator of the Lima museum.

Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota: A single bird seen below Machu Picchu during the extension was our only sighting. A monotypic genus, the name of which literally means ‘having the form of a manakin’. This refers to this species’ bill, which was considered to be manakin-like.

Orange-eared Tanager Chlorochrysa calliparaea: What a stunner! Here the race fulgentissima, with breast and belly mostly deep cobalt blue.

Golden-naped Tanager Tangara ruficervix: Two birds made a short appearance with a cloud forest flock.

Silvery Tanager (Silver-backed T) Tangara viridicollis: A total of 6 birds showed well near Aguas Calientes.

Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis: Many superb views of this colourful foothill species. Spotted Tanager Tangara punctata: Nearly 15 were seen in the vicinity of Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. Blue-and-black Tanager Tangara vassorii: Three birds were seen in the Manu temperate forest. Many

often comment how different the birds in southern Peru of the southern race atrocoerulea seem from birds in Venezuela, Colombia and Ecuador.

Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis: Quite a few, around 30, were seen with mixed flocks in the cloudforest, of the southern race berlepschi.

Turquoise Tanager Tangara mexicana: Several sightings of this handsome tanager. A scientific misnomer, since this species is not found in Mexico and not even anywhere in Central America! To those of you who have been to SE Brazil, note that birds there are sometimes split off as a separate species, White-bellied Tanager T. brasiliensis.

Paradise Tanager Tangara chilensis: Delightfully numerous, here of the entirely red-rumped nominate race. Another silly scientific name, since this species doesn’t occur anywhere near Chile.

Opal-rumped Tanager Tangara velia: Our only sighting of the tour was from Amazonía Lodge’s canopy tower.

Opal-crowned Tanager Tangara callophrys: Two obliged for wonderful close-ups at the Manu Wildlife Centre tower.

Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola: Two sightings in the lower cloud forest and Amazonía Lodge. Golden-eared Tanager Tangara chrysotis: Two birds perched out for nice views near Cock-of-the-

Rock Lodge. Saffron-crowned Tanager Tangara xanthocephala: Another superb montane tanager, here of the

southern race lamprotis, with orange crown and yellow sides to the head. Green-and-gold Tanager Tangara schrankii: Another regularly seen canopy gem. Golden Tanager Tangara arthus: Just six of this amazing species were seen around Cock-of-the-Rock

Lodge.


Swallow Tanager Tersina viridis (LO): Two seen in flight at the Moriche palm forest on the outskirts of Puerto Maldonado.

Black-faced Dacnis Dacnis lineata: Three sightings in the lower cloud forest and Amazonía Lodge. Yellow-bellied Dacnis Dacnis flaviventer: First seen by François en route to Amazonía Lodge and

also seen at Romero and Manu Wildlife Centre tower. Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana: Scattered sightings in the Manu foothills, Amazonía Lodge, Pantiacolla

and also the Puerto Maldonado area. Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza: First seen in the San Pedro area with a few other sightings

from the Manu lowlands. Purple Honeycreeper Cyanerpes caeruleus: A female seen through the scope from the Romero trails

was our only sighting. Cinereous Conebill Conirostrum cinereum: Our first birds were seen in the arid country near Cusco

(nominate) and the sacred valley, and small numbers were then found in the Lomas de Lachay (littorale). Both races are very grey and quite different-looking from the brownish birds in Ecuador (fraseri).

Capped Conebill Conirostrum albifrons: Multiple encounters, here of the blue-crowned (in males) race sordidum.

White-browed Conebill Conirostrum ferrugineiventre: One with a mixed flock in the upper Manu temperate forest was seen well by all.

Rusty Flowerpiercer Diglossa sittoides: Two were seen at our Ollantaytambo hotel. Moustached Flowerpiercer Diglossa mystacalis: Fairly common at the highest elevations in the

cloudforest. One of the prettiest in the genus, here of the se Peruvian race albilinea, with buffy white moustache and no pectoral band.

Black-throated Flowerpiercer Diglossa brunneiventris: Common in the inter-Andean valleys above Paucartambo.

Deep-blue Flowerpiercer Diglossa glauca: Two birds seen at middle elevations along the Manu road. Masked Flower-piercer Diglossopis cyanea: Up to 18 individuals were seen in the upper elevations. INCERTAE SEDIS Bananaquit Coereba flaveola: Three birds were seen along the lower Manu road and some of you

even added it to your property list for Amazonía Lodge. Slate-coloured Grosbeak Saltator grossus (H): One at Amazonía Lodge. Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus: A regular visitor to the bananas of Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge

and common around Manu Wildlife Centre. Genetic data indicates that Saltator is not a cardinal grosbeak but may in fact belong with the thraupid tanagers.

Greyish Saltator Saltator coerulescens: In Manu we saw two birds in secondary habitats such as Blanquillo from the hide and also Cocha Camungo.

Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris: At least 10 seen between Huacarpay and during our travels in the Cusco highlands. More were seen in arid country around Cusco and the Sacred Valley during the extension.

EMBERIZIDAE Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis: Conspicuous in open areas at higher elevations, but

also numerous in the Lomas de Lachay. Yellow-browed Sparrow Ammodramus aurifrons: Numerous along river margins and also a few were

seen around Puerto Maldonado. Peruvian Sierra-Finch (Olive-backed S-F) Phrygilus punensis: We all had some good looks at this

species in the highlands on our first day and on the following day above Cusco. Named for the arid puna grasslands that dominate the altiplano region of the southern Andes.

Mourning Sierra-Finch Phrygilus fruticeti: Several were seen between Huacarpay and on our r through the highlands to Manu, here of the race peruvianus.

Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus: Nearly 100 were seen between Huacarpay Lake and the arid valleys en route to Paucartambo.


Band-tailed Sierra-Finch Phrygilus alaudinus: Numerous in the Lomas de Lachay, where in full song, and even song flights were observed several times.

Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch Poospiza caesar: Three of this restricted-range Peruvian endemic obliged very well this year at a new site en route to Manu.

Collared Warbling-Finch Poospiza hispaniolensis: Up to 25 were seen at Lachay this year. The sexes have dimorphic plumage.

Greenish Yellow-Finch Sicalis olivascens: At least 1 seen during our highland birding en route to Manu on our second day.

Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola: This species has now established itself in the Puerto Maldonado area where we saw a handful of birds perched on electric cables. These birds were brought in from the north by a caged bird trader who released them in order to avoid imminent arrest by wildlife authorities.

Grassland Yellow-Finch Sicalis luteola: A flock of at least 10 birds was seen at Huacarpay Lake. Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina: Just one seen along the coast on the very last day. Black-and-white Seedeater Sporophila luctuosa: We saw around a male looking very much at home

in the Amazonía Lodge clearing. Four more were seen near Puerto Maldonado. Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis: Six birds were seen along the Manu road. Chestnut-bellied Seedeater Sporophila castaneiventris: One seen along the Manu Road in the open

country en route to Amazonía Lodge, and a few more were seen near Puerto Maldonado. Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch (Lesser S-F) Oryzoborus angolensis: : One seen along the Manu Road in

the open country en route to Amazonía Lodge and a second was seen in the grass at Blanquillo.

Black-billed Seed-Finch Oryzoborus atrirostris: At least 4 were seen quite well at Blanquillo. Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis: The most abundant seedeater in the dry scrub of the high

elevations. Pectoral Sparrow Arremon taciturnus: Mostly just heard but Richard had good views at Amazonía

Lodge. Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch Arremon brunneinucha (H): Heard-only in the bamboo below Machu

Picchu. Olive Finch Arremon castaneiceps: Quite nice views for those of us that went off the road to see this

sometimes shy understorey bird. Black-faced Brush-Finch (Dark-f B-F) Atlapetes melanolaemus: Numerous in the cloudforest,

occupying quite a broad altitudinal range, doubtless due to the lack of other Atlapetes species.

Common Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus: A common bird at mid-elevations. This wide-ranging species exhibits complex geographic variation, birds here belonging to the race peruvianus, with pale iris but no white postocular spot. They were very vocal during our visit, and the song differs dramatically from that of e.g. Ecuadorian birds. Genetic data indicate Chlorospingus to be in fact an emberizid (sparrows), with the AOU recently accepting this change.

Short-billed Bush-Tanager (Yellow-whiskered B-T) Chlorospingus parvirostris: Wonderful views of close birds in the upper Manu cloud forest.

Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus flavigularis: Numerous in mixed flocks at lower elevations.

CARDINALIDAE Highland Hepatic Tanager Piranga lutea: Another bird seen by those of us that did not do the ruins

tour below Machu Picchu. Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica: Nice views of the race peruviana, females of which look

quite different from those of other subspecies. We first encountered this species in Manu National Park, but it seemed more numerous at Manu Wildlife Centre.

Olive Tanager Chlorothraupis frenata: Two seen briefly in Amazonía’s hill forest as they mostly stayed out of sight.


Black-backed Grosbeak Pheucticus aureoventris: One was seen fairly well at our Ollantaytambo hotel.

PARULIDAE Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi: Four were seen foraging over the road near Aguas Calientes. Yellow Warbler Dendroica petechia: Surely the most bizarre record of the trip was an individual of

what appeared to be the aestiva group of this species seen in an area of roadside second growth on the outskirts of Puerto Maldonado.

Slate-throated Redstart (S-t Whitestart) Myioborus miniatus: Numerous on the Manu road and below Machu Picchu.

Spectacled Redstart (S Whitestart) Myioborus melanocephalus: Replacing the previous species at higher elevations. Here the southernmost race bolivianus, with a solid black crown.

Two-banded Warbler Basileuterus bivittatus: Singing birds showed well along the road below Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge, here of the nominate race.

Golden-bellied Warbler Basileuterus chrysogaster: A near-endemic that was seen well at lower elevations on the Manu road.

Pale-legged Warbler Basileuterus signatus: A typical warbler of the upper subtropical and lower temperate zones; we saw four quite well along the Manu road.

Russet-crowned Warbler Basileuterus coronatus: This species was heard along the Manu road but was not seen until the Machu Picchu area.

Three-striped Warbler Basileuterus tristriatus: Small groups of these energetic warblers were seen on two separate days in the Manu cloud forest.

Buff-rumped Warbler Basileuterus fulvicauda: One showed well at Manu Wildlife Centre. ICTERIDAE Russet-backed Oropendola Psarocolius angustifrons: The most commonly seen oropendola, here of

the yellowish-billed race alfredi. Dusky-green Oropendola Psarocolius atrovirens: A middle-elevation oropendola that nests in small

colonies; we saw it best at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus: Regular sightings. ‘Decumanus’ is Latin for a

legionnaire of the tenth legion; this name refers to the dagger- or sword-like bill and the shield-like casque of this species.

Olive Oropendola (Amazonían O) Gymnostinops yuracares: A handsome large oropendola we admired at a nesting colony up on the terra firme trail of Manu Wildlife Centre. Named after the Yuracarés, an Indian tribe in Bolivia.

Casqued Oropendola Psarocolius oseryi: Fairly common around both Romero and also Manu Wildlife Centre this year.

Southern Mountain-Cacique (Bolivian C) Cacicus chrysonotus: A group of at least 4 were seen above Wayqecha.

Solitary Black Cacique (Solitary C) Cacicus solitarius: (H): Many heard records this tour but we could not get any to show from the Heliconia thickets despite a good effort.

Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela: Ubiquitous at lower elevations, here of the nominate race. Orange-backed Troupial Icterus croconotus: We watched a pair at Cocha Camungo succeed in

breaking the eggs of an entire colony of the previous species, probably in order to usurp their well-constructed nests.

Pale-eyed Blackbird Agelaius xanthophthalmus: A total of three birds were seen very well at Cocha Camungo. A species still only known from less than a dozen scattered localities in Amazonían Ecuador and Peru.

Yellow-winged Blackbird Agelasticus thilius: A total of 20 seen in the marsh at Huacarpay near Cusco.

Giant Cowbird Scaphidura oryzivora: Most numerous along the riverbanks. Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis: Five seen on the outskirts of Puerto Maldonado. Red-breasted Meadowlark Sturnella militaris: Two seen near Puerto Maldonado.


FRINGILLIDAE Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica: Nearly 100 seen between Huacarpay and Paucartambo and a

few more seen at Lomas de Lachay. Olivaceous Siskin Carduelis olivacea: A few good looks at this siskin in humid habitats at lower and

middle elevations of the Manu Road. White-lored Euphonia (Golden-bellied E) Euphonia chrysopasta: A pair showed well from the

canopy tower at Manu Wildlife Centre. Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster: Most numerous at lower elevations along the

Manu road. Here the race brunneifrons, males of which have a rufous crown, and a fairly ochraceous tinge below.

Rufous-bellied Euphonia Euphonia rufiventris: Excellent close-ups in the garden of Manu Wildlife Centre.

Blue-naped Chlorophonia Chlorophonia cyanea: Near Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge we enjoyed two good sightings of roadside bird.

MAMMALS Saddleback Tamarin Saguinus fuscicollis: A few encounters with this small, nervous primate, The

subfamily of tamarins and marmosets differ from the cebid new-world monkeys (capuchins, spiders, etc.) by giving birth to twins, having female-dominant family groups, and by their specialized feeding habits.

White-fronted Capuchin Monkey (Brown Pale-f C) Cebus albifrons: This species travels in larger groups than the following species. We had good views of a large troop at Manu Wildlife Centre On average, they forage in taller trees than the Brown Capuchin and also differ in that one dominant male does not govern them as in that species.

Brown Capuchin Monkey (Black-capped C) Cebus apella: Widespread in South America and highly intelligent. In northeast Brazil I was the first to confirm tool-use in a family group of this species that actually used large round stones in a Schwarzenegger dead lift to break open Attalea palm nuts. Photographs by Peter Oxford of this same family of monkeys were recently featured in the January 2003 issue of BBC Wildlife.

Black-headed Night Monkey Aotus nigriceps (H): Their owl-like hoots were heard on our night walk at Manu Wildlife Centre.

Brown Titi (Dusky T-Monkey) Callicebus brunneus: Five seen at Pantiacolla and two more seen at Romero.

Common Squirrel Monkey Saimira sciureus: An active insectivore that moves in large groups and cover huge territories, some days up to five kilometres. These large troops are governed by groups of females who make alliances and dominate the males!

Red Howler Monkey (Red H) Alouatta seniculus: Entertaining moments watching these mostly folivorous primates.

Peruvian Spider Monkey Ateles chamek: Several sightings of this hefty (over 25 lbs (12 kilos)) arboreal acrobat foraging in the floodplain forest around Romero and Manu Wildlife Centre. Spider monkey taxonomy is quite complex; this form of southwest Amazonía (including Manu) is now considered a separate species. A Red List species classified as Least Concern.

Common Woolly Monkey Lagothrix lagothricha: First spotted by Martine and François along the Manu road. We also had an exciting encounter with these debris-throwing, muscular frugivores in the terra firme at Amazonía Lodge.

South American Coati Nasua nasua: One of our best mammal sightings was watching a family group cross the Manu road below Pillahuata.

Kinkajou Potos flavus: We had good daytime views of this normally nocturnal critter feeding in cecropias above Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.


Tayra Eira barbara: A marauding individual was regularly seen lurking around the banana feeder at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.

Jaguarundi Puma yagouaroundi: A lucky sighting for Gill as the rest of us were beating the bush for an antthrush in Manu Wildife Centre’s terra firme.

White-lipped Peccary Tayassu pecari: A group of about 50 provided some exhilarating moments as we quietly watched these high-strung beasts cross the trail at Pantiacolla Lodge.

White-tailed Deer Odocoileus virginianus: A nice surprise at Huacarpay on our first day. Bolivian Squirrel Sciurus ignitus: These were the banana thieves at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. Southern Amazon Red Squirrel Sciurus spadiceus: A few of this impressive looking large squirrel at

Amazonía and Romero. Capybara Hydrochaerus hydrochaeris: One during the journey from Romero to Manu Wildlife

Centre. Brown Agouti Dasyprocta variegata: Seen in the lowlands, this is the only mammal in the rainforest

capable of opening the thick coconut like outer shell of Brazil-nut fruits. Amazon Bamboo Rat Dactylomys dactylinus (H): An ominous nocturnal sound we heard at a few of

the lodges. REPTILES Yellow-spotted Side-neck Turtle Podocnemis unifilis: We saw numerous sunning groups on exposed

trunks in the Manu and Madre de Dios Rivers, an uncommon sight elsewhere in the Amazon. Although this is the only member of this genus, it has two local names: taricaya and charapa. They are heavily persecuted for their eggs, a veritable delicacy.

Black Caiman Melanosuchus niger: Manu is one of the few places where healthy populations of Black Caiman still exist. We saw several during our catamaran rides on the oxbows. They are listed as “endangered” by CITES, after having been hunted to near extinction for their relatively soft hides.

Spectacled Caiman Caiman crocodilus: Several sightings of individuals attempting to warm themselves on the banks of the Rio Manu during the friaje.

Amazon Race Runner Ameiva ameiva: Females and males have reversed coloration. Commonly seen in the lodge clearings.

Teid Lizard Tupinambis nigropunctatus: The large lizards we saw sunning at the edge of the lodge clearings.

(clockwise) We visited two separate macaw licks this year including a Blue-headed Macaw lick. Hummers featured at several lodges including Amazonia Lodge and its famous Rufous-crested Coquette, and Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge where Booted Racket-tail was a regu-lar visitor. This year we had two separate sightings of Long-tailed Potoo. This pair of Orange-backed Troupial succeeded in destroying all of the eggs from a Yellow-rumped Cacique colony right before our very eyes!

More oxbow lake birds in-cluded Sungrebe, Pale-eyed Blackbird (a Manu special-ity) and Wattled Jacana (top row). Red Howler Monkey was one of nine species of primates seen (above). For-est birds were diverse and included Pavonine Quetzal (middle), White-browed Purpletuft and Semicollared Puffbird (bottom row).

The Manu has immense diversity with an amazing number of habitats. Starting in the arid Cusco highlands with this Ornate Tinamou (top right) which is very much at odds with oxbow lake and riverine birds such as Agami Heron (top left), Hoatzin (above), Horned Screamer (middle right) and Crane Hawk (lower right).

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