© 2012 by Innovacos corp. All rights reserved Conception and design Symbiose design-graphique
Background
Efficacy
Formulation
innollient™LOinnollient™ LO is a liquid estolide (an ester linkage of one fatty acid to the hydroxyl
group of a second one) mainly composed of saturated and unsaturated fatty
acids displaying hydrophilic groups with high affinity for water molecules. A struc-
tural feature of innollient™ LO is the presence of a Guerbet derivative creating a
lipophilic lateral branch. This derivative imparts fluidity and low-friction characteristics
to innollient™ LO and contributes to its low melting point. The main benefits provided
by innollient™ LO are the spreadability index and a unique skin feel coupled to a
significant improvement of the skin resiliency.
Clinical actions and sensorial properties Improvement of skin barrier function (TEWL)
Increase in skin resiliency (cutometry)
High spreadability index
Superior emollient action
Cyclomethicone-like skin feel
Long-lasting effect
Technical information INCI (proposed): Octyldodecyl Oleate (and) Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Octyldodecanol
Soluble in oils
Recommended use level: 1-10 %
Ideal for:
– Skin moisturizing, emollience
– Improving barrier function
– Improving formulation texture, gloss
– Hair care
– Makeup formulations
– Improving skin elasticity/resiliency
– Natural alternative to cyclomethicone
– Sunscreen solubilization/dispersion
of water and senses www.innovacos.com
innollient™ LO at work
Skin barrier
Skin resiliency
Estolide structures
– Containing a Guerbet-derivative
Creation of hydrophilic pockets
High spreadability index
Promotes skin hydration
Cyclomethicone-like feel
Long-lasting effect
Clinical efficacy
One single application of a formulation containing 3% innollient™LO significantly improves the skin barrier function. The positive action is observed already 1 hour after its application and lasts for up to 8 hours
One single application of a formulation containing 3% innollient™LO significantly improves the skin resiliency (cutometry). The positive action is observed already 1 hour after its application and lasts for up to 8 hours
OO
O
O
O O
O
O
H2O
H2O H2OH2O
H2O
1 hour
-8
-4
-6
-10
-2
0
8 hours
% r
educ
tion
in T
EW
L vs
bas
elin
e
Time after product application
*
*
-12
* p < 0.05 vs Placebo p > 0.05 vs 1 hour
innollient™LO
Placebo
1 hour
2
5
3
4
1
6
7
8 hours
% in
ski
n re
silie
ncy
vs b
asel
ine *
0
* p < 0.05 vs Placebo p > 0.05 vs 1 hour
innollient™LO
Placebo
*
innollient™ LO vs Cyclomethicone
ClinicalSelf-assessment
Sensorial evaluations
innollient™LO brings unique senso- rial properties to a formulation. The sensorial profile of innollient™LO shows a high spreadability index and advantageously compares to that of cyclomethicone especially for the emolliency parameter
innollient™LO vs Cyclomethicone
INCI Formula A %
Formula B % Function
A
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (pending) 5.00 5.00 Emulsifier
Dicaprylyl Ether 3.50 3.50
Emollients
Cetearyl Isononanoate 4.50 4.50
Dimethicone 1.00 1.00
Cyclomethicone 2.00 —
innollient™LO — 2.00
BAqua (Water) up to 100 up to 100
Glycerin 3.00 3.00 Humectant
Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 0.30 Thickener
C Preservative a.n. a.n. Preservative
PROCEDURE (O/W emulsion; formulae A and B): Prepare phase A and phase B separately and warm them up to 75°C;Add phase A to phase B, at 75°C under agitation; Homogenize for a few minutes;Cool down under gentle stirring and add preservative below 40° C (phase C).
– Viscosity after 24h Brk, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 93, 10 rpm: 50.000 – 55.000 cps– pH (100%): 5.0 – 7.0
Self-assessment of a formu l ation containing 3% innollient™LO, versus placebo, for various sensorial parameters
– 20 subjects
– Assessment after 3 days of use; half-face regimen
– Placebo-controlled; blind protocol
innollient™LO positively contributes to the sensorial properties of a formulation
20 6040 80 100
Appearance ofthe skin improved
% of positive response
Skin is smoother
Skin is more hydrated
Spreadability
Texture of the product
Absorbs quickly
innollient™LO
Placebo
Cyclomethicone (Formula A)
innollient™LO (Formula B)
Cyclomethicone (Formula A)innoLLIENT LO (Formula B)
Brightness Stickiness
Film forming effect Absorption
Spreadability
Emolliency
01
56789
10
234
innollient™ LO at work
Skin barrier
Skin resiliency
Estolide structures
– Containing a Guerbet-derivative
Creation of hydrophilic pockets
High spreadability index
Promotes skin hydration
Cyclomethicone-like feel
Long-lasting effect
Clinical efficacy
One single application of a formulation containing 3% innollient™LO significantly improves the skin barrier function. The positive action is observed already 1 hour after its application and lasts for up to 8 hours
One single application of a formulation containing 3% innollient™LO significantly improves the skin resiliency (cutometry). The positive action is observed already 1 hour after its application and lasts for up to 8 hours
OO
O
O
O O
O
O
H2O
H2O H2OH2O
H2O
1 hour
-8
-4
-6
-10
-2
0
8 hours
% r
educ
tion
in T
EW
L vs
bas
elin
e
Time after product application
*
*
-12
* p < 0.05 vs Placebo p > 0.05 vs 1 hour
innollient™LO
Placebo
1 hour
2
5
3
4
1
6
7
8 hours
% in
ski
n re
silie
ncy
vs b
asel
ine *
0
* p < 0.05 vs Placebo p > 0.05 vs 1 hour
innollient™LO
Placebo
*
innollient™ LO vs Cyclomethicone
ClinicalSelf-assessment
Sensorial evaluations
innollient™LO brings unique senso- rial properties to a formulation. The sensorial profile of innollient™LO shows a high spreadability index and advantageously compares to that of cyclomethicone especially for the emolliency parameter
innollient™LO vs Cyclomethicone
INCI Formula A %
Formula B % Function
A
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (pending) 5.00 5.00 Emulsifier
Dicaprylyl Ether 3.50 3.50
Emollients
Cetearyl Isononanoate 4.50 4.50
Dimethicone 1.00 1.00
Cyclomethicone 2.00 —
innollient™LO — 2.00
BAqua (Water) up to 100 up to 100
Glycerin 3.00 3.00 Humectant
Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 0.30 Thickener
C Preservative a.n. a.n. Preservative
PROCEDURE (O/W emulsion; formulae A and B): Prepare phase A and phase B separately and warm them up to 75°C;Add phase A to phase B, at 75°C under agitation; Homogenize for a few minutes;Cool down under gentle stirring and add preservative below 40° C (phase C).
– Viscosity after 24h Brk, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 93, 10 rpm: 50.000 – 55.000 cps– pH (100%): 5.0 – 7.0
Self-assessment of a formu l ation containing 3% innollient™LO, versus placebo, for various sensorial parameters
– 20 subjects
– Assessment after 3 days of use; half-face regimen
– Placebo-controlled; blind protocol
innollient™LO positively contributes to the sensorial properties of a formulation
20 6040 80 100
Appearance ofthe skin improved
% of positive response
Skin is smoother
Skin is more hydrated
Spreadability
Texture of the product
Absorbs quickly
innollient™LO
Placebo
Cyclomethicone (Formula A)
innollient™LO (Formula B)
Cyclomethicone (Formula A)innoLLIENT LO (Formula B)
Brightness Stickiness
Film forming effect Absorption
Spreadability
Emolliency
01
56789
10
234
© 2012 by Innovacos corp. All rights reserved Conception and design Symbiose design-graphique
Background
Efficacy
Formulation
innollient™LOinnollient™ LO is a liquid estolide (an ester linkage of one fatty acid to the hydroxyl
group of a second one) mainly composed of saturated and unsaturated fatty
acids displaying hydrophilic groups with high affinity for water molecules. A struc-
tural feature of innollient™ LO is the presence of a Guerbet derivative creating a
lipophilic lateral branch. This derivative imparts fluidity and low-friction characteristics
to innollient™ LO and contributes to its low melting point. The main benefits provided
by innollient™ LO are the spreadability index and a unique skin feel coupled to a
significant improvement of the skin resiliency.
Clinical actions and sensorial properties Improvement of skin barrier function (TEWL)
Increase in skin resiliency (cutometry)
High spreadability index
Superior emollient action
Cyclomethicone-like skin feel
Long-lasting effect
Technical information INCI: Octyldodecyl Oleate (and) Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Octyldodecanol
Soluble in oils
Recommended use level: 1-10 %
Ideal for:
– Skin moisturizing, emollience
– Improving barrier function
– Improving formulation texture, gloss
– Hair care
– Makeup formulations
– Improving skin elasticity/resiliency
– Natural alternative to cyclomethicone
– Sunscreen solubilization/dispersion
of water and senses www.innovacos.com
