Download - Pharaonic Cairo - Explore the Monuments of Ancient Egypt

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Pharaonic Cairo - explore the monuments ofancient Egypt

Cairo, 4 Days

Table of contents:Guide Description 2

Itinerary Overview 3

Daily Itineraries 6

Cairo Snapshot 25

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http://www.nileguide.com/destination/cairo/trips/pharaonic-cairo-explore-the-monuments-of-ancient-egypt/4513588

Guide Description

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AUTHOR NOTE: Cairo was founded by the Arabs in the SeventhCentury, but the ancient Egyptians had been living in this areafor thousands of years. The capital of ancient Egypt during theOld Kingdom, and still hugely significant throughout the rest ofthe pharaonic period, was Memphis (about 20 km south of thecentre of Cairo). Although Memphis is reduced to a shadow ofits former glory, many pharaonic monuments still remain in ornear Cairo. The most famous are, of course, the Pyramids ofGiza, and the collection of the Egyptian museum. However, thereare loads more to discover for the traveller who really wants toget to grips with pharaonic Cairo. This trip will lead you throughthe most important pharaonic monuments left in Cairo (and willalso take you out of the city), as well as a couple of institutionsthat are famous for promoting knowledge about ancient Egypt.Note that it is assumed you will stay in one of the hotels near tothe Pyramids themselves, although you could just as well stayin Downtown. Either way, you will need to hire a taxi to take youaround each day (except for day 4). Your hotel will be able tohelp you out with this. There’s going to be lots of driving, butdiscovering pharaonic Cairo will be great fun! Note that Egypt isa traditional country, and so it is sensible and respectful to dressconservatively. This is not so important at the tourist sites, butis good practice nonetheless. Finally, you will be on your feetfor most of each day, so comfortable footwear is a must. Alwayscarry a bottle of water with you.

Itinerary Overview things to do

restaurants

hotels

nightlife

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Day 1 - CairoDAY NOTE: Start early and aim to get to the Pyramids before9 am, in order to beat the crowds and the heat. The easiestway to get there is to hire a taxi for the day. Your hotel will beable to help with this, though it would be cheaper to arrange ityourself. Just make sure your driver speaks enough English, andnegotiate a fair price in advance. Once at the Pyramids, take thetime to explore the site fully. If you aren’t claustrophobic, it’s wellworth paying the small extra fee to enter one of the pyramids.There isn’t really anything to see, but the sensation of beinginside such a vast mass of rock is incredible. Make sure you alsoallow enough time to visit the Solar Boat Museum. Once you aredone, drive to the Great Sphinx (included in the Pyramids ticket),stopping at the pyramids viewing point along the way. Have funplaying with perspective when taking photos of the Sphinx: if youget your positioning right, you can appear to be patting him on thehead, and even kissing him! Before leaving, it’s probably wise toarrange your sunset camel ride for tomorrow. Ask your taxi driverif he can recommend a stables. If not, there are loads of stablesthat offer camel and horse rides in to the desert surrounding thePyramids. Touts who work with them hang around the Sphinx,so just ask around. Make sure to visit the stables first, and thatyou are comfortable with the people who run it. Negotiate overthe price: an hour’s camel ride at sunset should cost less than50 LE per person. Be very clear about what time you need toarrive in order to catch sunset in the desert, so you can planyour timing for the day. Grab some lunch at the nearby Felfelarestaurant, before driving to the Egyptian Museum. Be warnedthat the Egyptian Museum is huge, but not very well set out orlabelled. It might be worth hiring a guide to help you navigate yourway around all that history. Whether you do or not, make surenot to miss the diorite statue of Chephren on the ground floor, thecollection of bizarre Amarna Art, and of course Tutankhamen’streasure trove on the first floor. Have dinner Downtown – perhapsat Estoril bar and restaurant just off Talaat Harb Street.

Giza PlateauChildhood dream come true: the ancient pyramids ofEgypt

The Great PyramidLast remaining ancient wonder of the world

Pyramid of Khafre (Chephren)Limestone cap still intact

Pyramid of Menkaure (Mycerinus)Small but perfectly formed

Solar Boat MuseumPharaoh's cruise boat to the afterlife

The SphinxHaunting, mysterious and iconic

FelfelaPopular chain serving up traditional Egyptian staples

Egyptian MuseumAwe-inspiring display of pharaonic artefacts

EstorilGood quality Arabic food in cosy Downtown bar

Day 2 - CairoDAY NOTE: Long day today, so make sure you leave early!Memphis was where it all began, the original capital of ancientEgypt, and would have been a spectacular city in it’s day.Unfortunately there is not much to see here now, but it’s worthvisiting for a sense of completeness. You won’t want any morethan an hour here, and once you are done, it’s a short drive to getto Saqqara...You’re going to want a good few hours at Saqqara, becauseit’s a huge site: home to the first pyramid ever built, and anumber of tombs and other monuments. In contrast with the GizaPlateau, relatively few tourists visit Saqqara, so the site is a veryatmospheric place to wander around. Make sure you take sunprotection and plenty of water though, because there isn’t muchshade...Start out at the museum, to give you an overview of what youare going to see, before heading to the main site. If so inclined,you could hire a guide to help you find your way around, althoughthis is not necessary provided you have a map of the site. Spendsome time exploring the area around the Step Pyramid andFunerary Complex of Djoser, before getting your taxi to takeyou to the tombs towards the north of the site. Make sure notto miss the Mastaba of Ti, whose detailed reliefs have providedEgyptologists with a wealth of information about everyday life inthe Old Kingdom...Once you have had enough of Saqqara, drive to Dahshur tovisit the Red and Bent Pyramids. It’s about a half an hour drive,maybe more if the traffic is bad, so you might want to get lunchbefore you leave. The restaurant at the Saqqara visitors’ centre ispretty good; if this doesn’t take your fancy, ask your driver to stopsomewhere along the way for you to pick up some snacks...


restaurants

hotels

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Even fewer tourists visit Dahshur than Saqqara, and you maybe lucky enough to have the site to yourself. It’s the home ofthe second and third pyramids ever built. They were both builtby Sneferu, father of Cheops (builder of the Great Pyramid).The earlier Bent Pyramid was a partially successful attempt tobuild a ‘true’ pyramid, rather than a stepped one. However, thestructure started showing signs of stress after being half built,so the architect reduced the angle of the slope from 54 to 43degrees, giving the pyramid its wonky shape. Unfortunately, thepolice will often not let you visit the Bent Pyramid, although youcan admire it from afar...The first ‘true’ pyramid in Egypt was the Red Pyramid, so namedbecause of the slightly red hue of its building blocks. This isthe third largest pyramid in Egypt (after the Great and SecondPyramids of the Giza Plateau) and you can go inside it. Evenif you’ve been inside a pyramid already, it’s still worth enteringthe Red Pyramid because the internal structure is a bit moreinteresting: there are a few ante-chambers which precede theburial chamber, which have an interesting, vaulted roof structure.A word of warning, however, entering this pyramid is quitephysically demanding: for Indiana-Jones wannabes only! Firstly,it’s a steep climb to get to the entrance (over 100 steep steps),and the interior passages are very cramped. Also, it sometimeshas a very acrid smell, almost like ammonia, which can makebreathing difficult. However, if this doesn’t put you off, you shouldcertainly visit...Make sure you leave Dahshur in plenty of time to get to thecamel stables for your camel ride. Sunset is a magical time tobe in the desert. It’s even better when you are riding a camel,and better still when you can view the ancient Pyramids in thechanging light. Experiencing the sunset Call to Prayer from theGiza Plateau is also special – it seems almost as though everymosque in Cairo is playing just to you...Take dinner near to your hotel. If you don’t fancy local cuisine,but you do want exquisite food and great service, a good optionis the sumptuous Moghul Rooms restaurant, at the Mena HouseOberoi.

MemphisAncient capital city of the pharaohs

Memphis: Alabaster SphinxCreature of Mystery

Memphis: Sun Temples of Abu GhurabNot a Place for Animal Lovers

Step Pyramid of SaqqaraFirst pyramid ever built

Saqqara: Pyramid of UnasPyramid containing first known examples of thePyramid texts

Saqqara: SerapeumBurial place of mummified, sacred bulls

Saqqara: Mastaba of TiImportant tomb with colourful scenes of daily life

Mastaba of Ptah-Hotep and Akhti-HotepWell preserved double mastaba tomb in Saqqara

Saqqara: Mastaba of MererukaLargest Old Kingdom courtier's tomb

Saqqara: Mastaba of KagemniIt's All in the Detail!

Saqqara: Mastaba of Ankh-MahorKnown as the Physician's Tomb

DahshurFirst true pyramids ever built

Camel Ride by the PyramidsSail back in time on a ship of the desert

Moghul Room at the Mena House OberoiDelectable Indian cuisine in plush setting

Day 3 - CairoDAY NOTE: Start the day at Dr Ragab’s Pharaonic village. It’skitsch and cheesy, but good fun, and if you have kids they willlove it! Continue your tour of all things Dr Ragab by heading upthe cornice and visiting the Dr Ragab Papyrus institute. Whilethe institute exists mainly to try to sell you papyrus, you will alsolearn about this fascinating plant: its symbolism, how it is grown,and made into paper. The papyrus paintings here are expensive,but they are good quality. By now you should be ready for a spotof lunch. Whilst not pharaonic in any way, it would be a shameto come to Cairo and not experience the wonders of Khan al-Khalili bazaar. Have your taxi take you there, and spend anhour or so wandering around the bazaar, and haggling with thevendors for souvenirs. Whilst at the bazaar, grab a bite to eat atthe Egyptian Pancake House. You can also take the weight offyour legs for a while at the famous al-Fishawi coffee shop, aspatronised by Naguib Mahfouz. In the afternoon, head to the zany


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Gayer-Anderson Museum next to Ibn Tulun Mosque. Most of thehouse is taken up with an eclectic collection of art and furnishingsfrom the Near East, but is also an interesting ancient Egyptiansection too. Return to your hotel to relax for a bit before goingto the spectacular Sound and Light Show at the Pyramids. Notethat times vary throughout the year, so you should call ahead inadvance, or ask at your hotel, to confirm.

Dr. Ragab's Pharaonic VillageExperience ancient Egyptian life at this livingmuseum

Dr. Ragab's Papyrus InstituteThe ABC's of Papyrus Explained

Khan el-Khalili BazaarBeating heart of Islamic Cairo

Al-Fishawi Coffee ShopThe beating heart of Khan al-Khalili

Egyptian pancake houseTraditional Egyptian pancakes in Khan al Khalilibazaar

Gayer-Anderson MuseumEclectic museum in beautiful home, used in JamesBond film

Giza Pyramids: Sound and Light ShowCheesy but spectacular, and definitely memorable

Day 4 - CairoDAY NOTE: Something a little different today. You are goingto head to one of the most incredible, and least visited, sites inEgypt: the collapsed Pyramid of Meidum. The pyramid is about65 km south of Saqqara, near the oasis of Fayoum, and thereare two main ways to do this visit. The easiest way is simply tohire a taxi for the day from Cairo to take you down, wait, andbring you back. You should be on very good terms with your taxidriver now, and so able to organise a reasonable price! The otheralternative is to take a public bus from Cairo to Fayoum, andthen hire a taxi there. The Pyramid of Meidum is about 30 kmfrom Fayoum though, so you may not even end up saving thatmuch money. The pyramid is very atmospheric. It was the firstattempt at a proper pyramid in Egypt: initially built in the sameway as the Step Pyramid of Saqqara, the steps were then filledin to create a smooth pyramid … which later partially collapsed,leaving only the inner core standing! In spite of this, you canstill go inside the pyramid. The burial chamber is, of course,

empty, but the sensation is incredible. A word of warning: thesurrounding area is lush with vegetation, and does not receivemany visitors, so you must keep your eyes open for snakes. Nota problem, just tread heavily, watch where you place your feet,and don’t stick your hands into any cracks. However you chooseto get to Meidum, it’s worth taking the time to explore the oasis ofFayoum. The town itself is nothing special, though it does havesome pretty water wheels, but the surrounding countryside isgorgeous. For your final evening in Cairo, head to the island ofZamalek: home of expats and embassies, restaurants and bars.Try to eat at Abou el Sid if you can. It’s a traditional Egyptianrestaurant that serves great quality local food, beer and shisha.It gets very busy, so it’s best to either get there early, or make areservation. It’s the perfect place to say your goodbyes to Cairo.

ZamalekIsland of greenery, shopping and nightlife

Abou el SidTraditional Egyptian cuisine, beer and shisha inArabic splendour

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Day 1 - CairoQUICK NOTE

DAY NOTE: Start early and aim to get to the Pyramids before 9 am, in order to beat the crowds and the heat. The easiest way to getthere is to hire a taxi for the day. Your hotel will be able to help with this, though it would be cheaper to arrange it yourself. Just makesure your driver speaks enough English, and negotiate a fair price in advance. Once at the Pyramids, take the time to explore the sitefully. If you aren’t claustrophobic, it’s well worth paying the small extra fee to enter one of the pyramids. There isn’t really anything tosee, but the sensation of being inside such a vast mass of rock is incredible. Make sure you also allow enough time to visit the SolarBoat Museum. Once you are done, drive to the Great Sphinx (included in the Pyramids ticket), stopping at the pyramids viewing pointalong the way. Have fun playing with perspective when taking photos of the Sphinx: if you get your positioning right, you can appearto be patting him on the head, and even kissing him! Before leaving, it’s probably wise to arrange your sunset camel ride for tomorrow.Ask your taxi driver if he can recommend a stables. If not, there are loads of stables that offer camel and horse rides in to the desertsurrounding the Pyramids. Touts who work with them hang around the Sphinx, so just ask around. Make sure to visit the stables first,and that you are comfortable with the people who run it. Negotiate over the price: an hour’s camel ride at sunset should cost less than50 LE per person. Be very clear about what time you need to arrive in order to catch sunset in the desert, so you can plan your timingfor the day. Grab some lunch at the nearby Felfela restaurant, before driving to the Egyptian Museum. Be warned that the EgyptianMuseum is huge, but not very well set out or labelled. It might be worth hiring a guide to help you navigate your way around all thathistory. Whether you do or not, make sure not to miss the diorite statue of Chephren on the ground floor, the collection of bizarre AmarnaArt, and of course Tutankhamen’s treasure trove on the first floor. Have dinner Downtown – perhaps at Estoril bar and restaurant just offTalaat Harb Street.

Day 1 - continued...

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contact:tel: +20 (0)2 385 0259http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/giza.htm

location:Sh. Al Ahram RoadCairo

1 Giza Plateau

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:Make sure you have enough time to explore theGiza Plateau in depth – there’s more to see and dohere than just look at 3 pyramids

DESCRIPTION: Situated about 25 km south west of the centreof Cairo, the Giza Plateau has been a necropolis since atleast the start of the Pharaonic period. For many people, thechance to visit the Giza Plateau is a childhood dream cometrue, because this is where the most famous Egyptian Pyramidsare situated.The Giza Plateau is home to the Great Pyramid of Khufu(known to the Greeks as Cheops), the Pyramid of Khafre(Chephren), and the Pyramid of Menkaure (Mycerinus), andalso the Great Sphinx and the Valley Temple, and the SolarBoat Museum.As well as these famous attractions, there are numeroussecondary pyramids that were built for queens and childrenof the pharaohs. All are believed to have been built duringthe Fourth Dynasty, over four thousand years ago! However,there are also numerous mastaba tombs dotted about the GizaPlateau, some of which date back to the First Dynasty and thebeginning of the Pharaonic period.The Giza Plateau has been intensively and systematicallystudied since the end of the 18th Century, but new discoveriesare still being made. No-one knows how many of ancientEgypt's secrets are still locked up beneath the shifting desertsands. For many visitors, however, the most surprising thing isthat the Giza Plateau is no longer isolated in the middle of thedesert, but is actually right next to a suburb of Giza. The pastand present truly are intertwined in Cairo! © NileGuide

Photo by Ed Yourdon

contact:tel: +20 2 383 8823http://www.egypt.travel/index.php

location:Giza PlateauCairo 12561

2 The Great Pyramid

DESCRIPTION: What can be said about the most iconic, andcontroversial, building in the world? The Pyramid of Khufu,most commonly known as the Great Pyramid of Giza, is theonly one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world that is stillstanding.It is believed to have been built during the reign of 4th Dynastypharaoh Khufu (known as Cheops in Greek), and completedround about 2560 BC. Constructed from an estimated 2.3million blocks of sandstone, and with an estimated total massof nearly 6 million tonnes, the Pyramid of Khufu has to be seento be believed. Awe-inspiring does not even come close todescribing the Great Pyramid, and it is still not known how theancient Egyptians built it (assuming they even did)!Furthermore, many researchers don't believe it was a tombafter all – other explanations include astronomical observatory,centre of cult initiation, and representation of the earth's

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physical properties. Decide for yourself as you soak up themagic and majesty of this timeless monument.Along with the Pyramids of Khafre (Chephren) and Menkaure(Mycerinus), and of course the Sphinx, the Pyramid of Khufuis part of the Giza Pyramids Complex. Make sure you alsofind the time to check out the Solar Boat Museum next to thePyramid of Khufu.The best way to visit the Giza Plateau is by taxi. © NileGuide

contact:tel: +20 (0)2 391 3454 (TouristInformation)http://www.touregypt.net/chephren.htm

location:Giza Pyramids PlateauCairo 12561

3 Pyramid of Khafre (Chephren)

DESCRIPTION: The Pyramid of Chephren (or Khafre, inancient Egyptian) is the second largest of the three pyramidsat Giza, and is sometimes known as the Second Pyramid. Itappears larger than the Pyramid of Khufu, but that is because itis built on higher ground and the peak is still intact. It is believedto have been built during the reign of 4th dynasty pharaohKhafre, thought by most archaeologists to be Khufu's son.Unlike the Great Pyramid, the Pyramid of Khafre still has theremains of the limestone casing stones at the top – these wouldhave protected the pyramid and given it a brilliant iridescentglow that could allegedly be seen from the mountains of Israel.The pyramid is linked by a causeway to the Great Sphinx – youcan walk down this causeway, though you can't enter in to thecompound of the Sphinx from here (you have to skirt aroundthe outer wall).You can usually go inside the Pyramid of Chephren for a smallfee, and follow a steep and claustrophobic passage all theway down to the burial chamber. There is not much to see, butthe sensation of being inside such a huge physical mass is anincredible experience.The best way to visit the Giza Plateau is by taxi. © NileGuide

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contact:tel: +20 2 383 8823


4 Pyramid of Menkaure (Mycerinus)

DESCRIPTION: The Pyramid of Mycerinus (or Menkaure, inancient Egyptian) is the baby of the three Pyramids of Giza, ifyou can call something 108 m long and 67 m high a baby! Likethe Pyramids of Khufu and Chephren, the Pyramid of Menkaurewas built during the 4th dynasty, and so is well over 4000 yearsold! Not much is known of Menkaure, though he was believedto have been another of Khufu's sons, and successor to Khafre.The Pyramid of Mycerinus is set back from the other twopyramids, about a 15 minute walk away. It therefore receivesfewer visitors than its two bigger brothers, but is well worthchecking out. Many observers claim that, when viewed on itsown, the Pyramid of Mycerinus exudes an almost palpablesense of power – far more than that of the other two. Becauseit is smaller, and so easier to comprehend, the effects of thegeometry are magnified. Make sure you go to experience thisexample of pyramid power for yourself!

photo courtesy of Richardavis


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The best way to visit the Giza Plateau is by taxi. © NileGuide

contact:tel: +20 (0)2 391 3454 (TouristInformation)http://www.egyptvoyager.com/museums_solar.htm


5 Solar Boat Museum

DESCRIPTION: The ancient Egyptians believed the dead pharaoh wouldjoin the Sun God in his solar boat to sail through the underworld. In 1954an actual solar boat (or barque) was found in a sealed pit next to thePyramid of Khufu. The boat was made of cedar wood and almost perfectlypreserved, although disassembled in to over 1000 pieces. A team ofarchaeologists spent over 10 years reconstructing the boat, which is nowon display in the Solar Boat Museum, next to the Great Pyramid.The boat is a remarkable feat of engineering – about 40 m long and witha displacement of around 400 tonnes! It is not known whether the boatplayed a purely symbolic function, or whether it actually served as Khufu'sship of state. There is some physical evidence that suggests the boatactually sailed at sea!The Solar Boat Museum houses a number of artefacts found in the pit,as well as the reconstructed boat itself. It also has an interesting photoexhibition detailing the immense amount of work that went into the salvageoperation. The best way to visit the Giza Plateau is by taxi. © NileGuide

photo courtesy ofmcoughlin

contact:tel: +20 2 383 8823http://www.egypt.travel/index.php


6 The Sphinx

DESCRIPTION: Like the Pyramid of Khufu, the Sphinx (oftenknown as the Great Sphinx) is simultaneously one of the bestknown and yet most controversial monuments in the world.With the body of a lion seamlessly blending in to a humanhead, the Sphinx is carved from a single piece of in-situ rock73 m long and 20 m high. It is sublimely beautiful, and hasstruck wonder into the hearts of visitors through the ages. It isbelieved to be a solar symbol, possibly representing the unity ofmatter and consciousness, the physical and spiritual realms.Conventional wisdom dictates that the Sphinx was constructedby Chephren (builder of the Second Pyramid), and it is true thatthe Valley Temple next to the Sphinx is linked to the Pyramid ofChephren. However, an alternative view – backed by geologicalevidence – suggests the Sphinx is much older than the normal4th Dynasty date ascribed it, perhaps having been built as earlyas 10,000 BC. Adding to the mystery, a number of esotericgroups believe that the mythical "Hall of Records" is locatedbeneath the Sphinx, containing the secret knowledge of theancient Egyptians.Whatever the truth of these claims, the allure of this movingmonument will continue. The best way to visit the Giza Plateauis by taxi. © NileGuide

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contact:tel: +20 (0)2 2392 2833

location:Talaat Harb StreetCairo 11111

hours:Daily 7a-12:30a

7 Felfela

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:Felfela is a good, safe introduction to traditionalEgyptian cuisine.

DESCRIPTION: Beloved of tourists and locals alike, Felfela isa Cairo fast food institution. On the right as you head up TalaatHarb street towards the midan, Felfela is a simple, brightlycoloured and brightly lit restaurant that offers a whole range ofEgyptian street food classics.You can get koshary (with or without meat), chicken or beefshawerma, different types of taamiya and felafel sandwiches,all sorts of fuul... simply name your staple!Although it's a bit more expensive than the proper diverestaurants offering this food, Felfela is still cheap, andreassuringly hygienic.The way it works is easy: you order and pay at the cashdesk, and the staff will give you a ticket. (Felfela has menus inEnglish, and the staff speak English too.) You take your ticketto the appropriate part of the restaurant (the staff will tell youwhere to go if you aren't sure), and swap it for some food!You can either eat amongst the other customers, standing upat the waist-height counters, or take your food to go. Either way,it's delicious!Felfela is set right amongst the action of Downtown Cairo.Afterwards, why not head to the nearby Stella Bar, Horeya, orOdeon Palace Bar, and grab yourself a local beer to wash yourfood down!There is also a proper sit down version of the restaurant justaround the corner on Hoda Sharaawy Street.© NileGuide

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contact:tel: +20 2 579 6974fax: +20 2 579 4596http://www.egyptianmuseum.gov.eg/

location:Tahrir SquareGiza 11728

8 Egyptian Museum

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:Most tour groups visit in the afternoon – so come inthe morning to avoid the crowds.

DESCRIPTION: Also known as the Egyptian Museum ofAntiquities, the Egyptian Museum arguably has the mostmasterpieces per square inch of any museum in the world!Over 120,000 objects are on display, with many more instorage.The Egyptian Museum covers over 3000 years of pharaonichistory, from pre-dynastic Egypt to the Ptolemies. It's huge, andcan be confusing, so consider hiring one of the knowledgeableguides from the museum. However you organise the visit, lookout for the diorite stature of Khafra (Chephren) on the groundfloor, as well as the only known statue of Khufu, builder of the

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Great Pyramid. Ironically, the statue is tiny! Also make surenot to miss the strange Amarna art of the 'heretical' pharaohAkhenaten.Upstairs are the Tutankhamun exhibits – prepare to be blownaway by the sheer opulence of the funerary offerings, including,of course, the golden death mask! Although it costs extra, themummy room is well worth a look – spooky and awe-inspiringat the same time. Finally, check out the animal mummies –there's fish, crocodiles and even a cheeky little monkey.The Egyptian Museum is in Downtown Cairo, just off TahrirSquare and behind the Nile Hotel. If you don't fancy a taxi, youcan easily get here by Metro – get off at Sadat Station andfollow the signs. © NileGuide

contact:tel: +20 (0)2 25743102

location:12 Talaat Harb StreetCairo 11111

hours:Daily noon-1a

9 Estoril

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:Estoril can get quite busy on Thursdays, so theatmosphere is less intimate, and it’s advisable tobook in advance

DESCRIPTION: Estoril is a cosy restaurant/bar tucked down analley in Downtown. It's a small place, and although the smarttables are close together, it still feels quite intimate. The lightingis soft, and the atmosphere muted. There is no music, so softconversation provides the aural backdrop.Estoril is decorated in a restrained, classy fashion: modernArabic paintings adorn the walls, and there are a few mashrabiascreens dotted about. The end of the room is dominated by aheavy wooden bar, complete with mashrabia panelling, and anornate, gilded mirror.The staff are usually very welcoming, and the service isgenerally good: attentive and efficient, without being fussy.The menu at Estoril consists of classic Arabic dishes, manyof which have been given a French twist. Start your mealwith a selection of hot and cold mezze, and move on to amain of chicken, beef or veal. The chicken with molokheiya ispretty good. There's also a good selection of seafood, and –unusually for Egypt – a decent choice of quality veggie dishes.Finish with fresh fruit salad, or a traditional sweet mihallabiya.Don't feel rushed to leave after your meal – grab a stool next tothe beautiful bar, and linger over a drink or two.Note that Estoril can be rather hit and miss. Sometimes thefood and service is great; other times it's mediocre at best. Andsome nights, especially at weekends, the bar can be ratherboisterous, whereas other nights it's all but dead. It's worthturning up to see what's going on, because there are lots ofother places nearby like The Greek Club and Le Grillon.© NileGuide

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DAY NOTE: Long day today, so make sure you leave early! Memphis was where it all began, the original capital of ancient Egypt, andwould have been a spectacular city in it’s day. Unfortunately there is not much to see here now, but it’s worth visiting for a sense ofcompleteness. You won’t want any more than an hour here, and once you are done, it’s a short drive to get to Saqqara...You’re going to want a good few hours at Saqqara, because it’s a huge site: home to the first pyramid ever built, and a number of tombsand other monuments. In contrast with the Giza Plateau, relatively few tourists visit Saqqara, so the site is a very atmospheric place towander around. Make sure you take sun protection and plenty of water though, because there isn’t much shade...Start out at the museum, to give you an overview of what you are going to see, before heading to the main site. If so inclined, youcould hire a guide to help you find your way around, although this is not necessary provided you have a map of the site. Spend sometime exploring the area around the Step Pyramid and Funerary Complex of Djoser, before getting your taxi to take you to the tombstowards the north of the site. Make sure not to miss the Mastaba of Ti, whose detailed reliefs have provided Egyptologists with a wealthof information about everyday life in the Old Kingdom...Once you have had enough of Saqqara, drive to Dahshur to visit the Red and Bent Pyramids. It’s about a half an hour drive, maybemore if the traffic is bad, so you might want to get lunch before you leave. The restaurant at the Saqqara visitors’ centre is pretty good; ifthis doesn’t take your fancy, ask your driver to stop somewhere along the way for you to pick up some snacks...Even fewer tourists visit Dahshur than Saqqara, and you may be lucky enough to have the site to yourself. It’s the home of the secondand third pyramids ever built. They were both built by Sneferu, father of Cheops (builder of the Great Pyramid). The earlier Bent Pyramidwas a partially successful attempt to build a ‘true’ pyramid, rather than a stepped one. However, the structure started showing signs ofstress after being half built, so the architect reduced the angle of the slope from 54 to 43 degrees, giving the pyramid its wonky shape.Unfortunately, the police will often not let you visit the Bent Pyramid, although you can admire it from afar...The first ‘true’ pyramid in Egypt was the Red Pyramid, so named because of the slightly red hue of its building blocks. This is the thirdlargest pyramid in Egypt (after the Great and Second Pyramids of the Giza Plateau) and you can go inside it. Even if you’ve been inside


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a pyramid already, it’s still worth entering the Red Pyramid because the internal structure is a bit more interesting: there are a few ante-chambers which precede the burial chamber, which have an interesting, vaulted roof structure. A word of warning, however, entering thispyramid is quite physically demanding: for Indiana-Jones wannabes only! Firstly, it’s a steep climb to get to the entrance (over 100 steepsteps), and the interior passages are very cramped. Also, it sometimes has a very acrid smell, almost like ammonia, which can makebreathing difficult. However, if this doesn’t put you off, you should certainly visit...Make sure you leave Dahshur in plenty of time to get to the camel stables for your camel ride. Sunset is a magical time to be in thedesert. It’s even better when you are riding a camel, and better still when you can view the ancient Pyramids in the changing light.Experiencing the sunset Call to Prayer from the Giza Plateau is also special – it seems almost as though every mosque in Cairo isplaying just to you...Take dinner near to your hotel. If you don’t fancy local cuisine, but you do want exquisite food and great service, a good option is thesumptuous Moghul Rooms restaurant, at the Mena House Oberoi.

location:24 kilometres south of CairoMemphis

hours:Winter daily 8am-4pm;summer 8am-5pm

1 Memphis

DESCRIPTION: Legend has it that Memphis was foundedby King Menes around 3100 BC, when he unified Upper andLower Egypt. Memphis was the capital city of Egypt duringthe Old Kingdom, and remained an important religious andadministrative centre throughout the whole of the Pharaonicperiod. Memphis is a Greek name; the ancient Egyptians knewthe city as Ineb Hedj ("The White Walls"), and later as AnkhTawy ("That Which Binds the Two Lands").No-one knows for sure how large the city was, with populationestimates ranging from 6000 to 30,000. It is known to havebeen advanced, cosmopolitan, and teeming with palaces,temples and gardens; given the size of the associatednecropolis, stretching from Dahshur to Giza, Memphis itself wasprobably very large.Sadly, most of the city now lies under fields, Nile silt andnearby villages – and only a few ruins hold testament to theancient splendour that was Memphis. Although there is notmuch here anymore, the incredible significance of the site mightjustify a visit. As well as pretty gardens and the odd statueand temple fragment, there is a huge colossus of Ramses theSecond, and a large alabaster sphinx ascribed to Thutmosis III.The present-day site is about 20 km south of Cairo, and isbest visited by taxi. If you are going to go, it's a good idea tocombine it with a visit to nearby Saqqara. © NileGuide

photo courtesy of Marm Frielink

contact:tel: +20 2 285 4509 (Touristinformation)

location:MemphisCairo 12561

2 Memphis: Alabaster Sphinx

DESCRIPTION: The Sphinxes are the most mystical creatures of ancient Egypt. By far the mostfamous Sphinx is that of Giza; however, this is far from being the only sphinx in Egypt. In fact, thereare scores of Sphinxes all over the country. The Alabaster Sphinx is an impressive, 8 x 4 meter(25 x 13 foot)-structure. This Sphinx is particularly special because it is made from alabaster - a


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material rarely used for construction. Alabaster is mythically associated, mythically speaking withthe sun and solar powers. Well worth a visit. © wcities.com


location:North East of Sahure'sPyramidCairo 12561

3 Memphis: Sun Temples of Abu Ghurab

DESCRIPTION: These temples were built by the pharaohs of the V Dynasty at a time when thesolar cult was the state religion. Unlike many other temples, these are purely devotional and servedabsolutely no funerary purpose. The temple of Uskerkaf has, unfortunately, not stood the test oftime as well as other Egyptian monuments. Still, the sun temple of Nyuserre is very much similar,to the point of being almost identical, so one can easily imagine what the Temple of Uskerkaf waslike. In a corner of the courtyard, you will notice ten alabaster basins which once held the blood ofsacrificed animals. © wcities.com

contact:http://www.egypt.travel/index.php

location:North SaqqaraCairo 12561

4 Step Pyramid of Saqqara

DESCRIPTION: This is where it all began! The Step Pyramid ofSaqqara is the oldest complete cut-stone building in the world.It was designed by the high priest and architect Imhotep for the3rd dynasty pharaoh Djoser (about 2667 – 2648 BC).Before this pyramid, the pharaohs were buried beneathrectangular tombs known as mastabas (which means "bench"in Arabic). Imhotep (who was later deified) stacked 6 mastabason top of each other to create the first ever pyramid, whichserved as inspiration for the later structures at Giza andbeyond.The Step Pyramid of Saqqara is a truly incredible achievement,and despite standing for nearly 5000 years it is still pretty muchintact. It is part of a much larger site that acted as a necropolisfor the ancient Egyptians for over 3000 years. The whole areais littered with other pyramids and mastaba tombs, such as thePyramid of Unas, the Serapeum, and the Mastaba of Ti. Someof these other monuments are open – check at the ticket officewhen you arrive.Despite its significance, Saqqara receives a disproportionatelysmall number of visitors, and is a very atmospheric place towander around and explore on your own. There is isn't muchshade, so make sure to cover up and take plenty of water.The best way to get here is by taxi, and it's possible tocombine your visit with nearby Memphis. © NileGuide

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contact:tel: +20 2 285 4509 (TouristInformation)fax: +20 2 285 4363 (TouristInformation)http://www.egypt.travel/index.php

location:Saqqara

5 Saqqara: Pyramid of Unas

DESCRIPTION: The Pyramid of Unas, in the Saqqaranecropolis, was built by the last pharaoh of the 5th Dynasty,Unas. Although he ruled Egypt for around 30 years, it is thesmallest of the Old Kingdom pyramids: it is believed thatEgypt was already in a period of economic decline at thistime. Situated near the spectacular Step Pyramid of Zoser, thePyramid of Unas is easily overlooked, since it is nothing morethan a vaguely pyramid shaped pile of rubble. It was once part

photo courtesy of flickr


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Cairo 12561 of a larger, walled funerary complex, complete with subsidiarycult pyramid and temple, and was attached via a causewayto the valley temple. Sadly, none of this really remains. Whichis ironic, since the ancient Egyptian name for the complexwas "Beautiful are the places of Unas"! Appearances can bedeceiving, however, and the Pyramid of Unas is actually a verysignificant archaeological find. It contains the oldest knownexamples of the Pyramid texts. These were a series of religiousand magic spells that were carved into the passagewaysand chambers of all Royal pyramids, from the time of Unasonwards. These spells and invocations seem to form the basisof much of the ancient Egyptian belief system, and graduallyevolved into the more complete and elaborate symbolism of thevarious Books of the Dead that were used to adorn the NewKingdom tombs. Sadly, it is not possible to enter the Pyramidof Unas to see these beautiful carvings for yourself, since it isclosed as part of a long term restoration project. © NileGuide


location:24 km South-West of CairoMemphis 12561

6 Saqqara: Serapeum

DESCRIPTION: Situated near to the Mastaba of Ti in Saqqara, the Serapeum is one of Saqqara'sstrangest monuments. The temple was discovered by archaeologist Auguste Mariette in 1850.Twenty-four granite sarcophagi in which sacred bulls had been buried were discovered there,though unfortunately they had been plundered. These sacred Apis bulls were believed to beincarnations of Ptah, the cult god of Memphis. The sacred bulls were kept in the temple to Ptah atMemphis, their every need tended to by an army of attendants. They even had their own harem ofcows, and when they died, they were mummified and buried in the Serapeum with full pomp andcircumstance. Incredibly, the sarcophagi were carved from single blocks of granite weighing up to80 tons! Unfortunately, the Serapeum is currently closed to visitors. © NileGuide

contact:tel: +20 2 285 4509 (Touristinformation)http://www.egypt.travel/index.php

location:North East of Serapeum,SaqqaraCairo 12561

7 Saqqara: Mastaba of Ti

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:If you have come to Saqqara by car, have the car drop you off near the tomb andwalk the 10 minutes from there. It is possible to ride a camel the short distance tothe tomb if you don’t feel like walking, but make sure you haggle hard!

DESCRIPTION: Northwest of Zoser's funerary complex in Saqqara, near to the Serapeum andamongst a field of 3rd dynasty tombs, lies the Mastaba of Ti. Ti was an important court dignitaryduring the early 5th Dynasty, whose wife was of noble blood, and whose children were thereforerecognised as being of royal descent. His main function was as one of the pharaoh's chiefhairdressers, though he was also responsible for maintaining farming land and stock. The Mastabaof Ti was discovered in 1865 by Auguste Mariette, and has provided a wealth of information aboutlife in the Old Kingdom. This large tomb consists of a main room with a shaft leading down tothe burial chamber, and a passageway leading to two other rooms. Much of the Mastaba of Ti iscovered with remarkably preserved, colourful reliefs of scenes from daily life, such as hunting andfishing, boat building and tannery. The reliefs have been used to infer much information aboutOld Kingdom times, though it's likely their true significance is allegorical, and related to ancientEgyptian belief systems and symbolism. It is possible to go down the shaft in the Mastaba of Ti toview the burial chamber: the shaft is cramped and you will need to bend over double, but it is veryshort. The burial chamber contains Ti's plain sarcophagus, though there is nothing else to see.Note that although you do not have to pay extra to visit the Mastaba of Ti, the caretakers will expecta little baksheesh for taking you down the shaft to the burial chamber. © NileGuide


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location:Between Step Pyramid andSerapeumCairo 12561

hours:Call for details

8 Mastaba of Ptah-Hotep and Akhti-Hotep

DESCRIPTION: The double mastaba tomb of Ptah-Hotep and Akhti-Hotep is just off the left of theroad that leads up towards the refreshment area and the Mastaba of Ti in Saqqara. Ptah-Hotepwas a priest of Maat, the Goddess of Justice, during the reign of Pharaoh Djedkare (predecessorof Unas, builder of the pyramid containing the earliest known Pyramid texts). Akhti-Hotep was hisson, a vizier and supervisor of pyramid cities and priests. The Mastaba of Ptah-Hotep and Akhti-Hotep has a separate burial chamber and chapel for each of the deceased, and is considered tobe one of the finest mastabas in Saqqara. The hunting and farming scenes in Ptah-Hotep's part ofthe tomb are particularly well preserved, still retaining lots of detail and much of their original colour.The mastaba of Ptah-Hotep and Akhti-Hotep is also interesting because not all of the reliefs havebeen finished, but are in various stages of completion. You can see different stages of the processwhereby initial sketches were corrected in red by a master artist, before areas were chiselled away,cut with detail, and finally painted to produce the finished product. © NileGuide


location:Step Pyramid of DjoserCairo 12561


9 Saqqara: Mastaba of Mereruka

DESCRIPTION: Just to the north-west of the Pyramid of Teti in Saqqara is the Mastaba ofMereruka. Mereruka was the pharaoh Teti's highest court official, during the 6th Dynasty. Coveringan area of over 1000 sq m, and with 32 separate chambers, the Mastaba of Mereruka is the largestknown tomb belonging to a court official in the Old Kingdom. There are pillared hallways, offeringrooms, and the burial rooms themselves. Mereruka's wife, who was a priestess of Hathor (anddaughter of Teti), was also buried in the Mastaba of Mereruka, as was his eldest son. The Mastabaof Mereruka contains the usual range of daily life scenes, especially of hunting and farming, andsome of the reliefs are very well preserved. The main, columned offering hall in the Mastabaof Mereruka contains a life-sized statue of the vizier emerging from a false door to receive theofferings left for him. © NileGuide


location:Beside Step PyramidCairo 12561


A Saqqara: Mastaba of Kagemni

DESCRIPTION: The scenes painted on the walls of this tomb are delightful. There are particularlywonderful scenes of fish, crocodiles, grasshoppers, dragonflies, frogs, geese, hyenas; it is atrue nature lover's delight. This tomb is often compared to the nearby tomb of Mereruka. WhileMereruka's tomb is larger and the reliefs are more numerous, this tomb far exceeds it in the finedetails of its delightful reliefs are not to be missed. © wcities.com


location:Near by Step PyramidCairo 12561

hours:

B Saqqara: Mastaba of Ankh-Mahor

DESCRIPTION: Dating from the VI Dynasty, this Mastaba is often called the Physician's Tomb. Inactual fact, Ankh Mahor was a ka-priest, not a physician. The medical scenes in the doorway tothe tomb suggest that there was a connection between religion, magic and medicine for ancientpeoples. Unfortunately, the reliefs in this temple are not in mint condition. So, if you're alreadyfeeling hot and stuffy, it's advisable to move on to the next temple on your itinerary. © wcities.com


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9a-4.30p daily.

contact:tel: 33850259

location:DahshurCairo

DahshurOUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:Dahshur is very exposed, so make sure you takesun protection and plenty of water.

DESCRIPTION: The Dahshur funerary complex contains theRed Pyramid and the Bent Pyramid, believed to have been builtby the pharaoh Snefru, father of Khufu (builder of the GreatPyramid of Giza).The Red Pyramid is the third largest pyramid in Egypt, afterthe Pyramid of Khufu and the Pyramid of Chephren at the GizaPlateau. It is very well preserved, and is known as the RedPyramid because of the reddish hue of the exposed graniteblocks. It is believed to be the first true pyramid in the world:with smooth, sloping sides, in contrast to the stepped pyramidat Saqqara.It is possible to enter the pyramid, which is an amazingexperience. Although there isn’t much to see, the sensation ofbeing inside such a massive structure is incredible.The Bent Pyramid is about 1 km south of the Red Pyramid,and the police will not usually let you visit it. You can, however,take some good photos that show why the pyramid is calledthe Bent Pyramid: half way up the angle of the slope changes,possibly because the architect was worried the pyramid mightcollapse.Dahshur receives far fewer visitors than the Pyramids ofGiza, and you will often have this special site all to yourself.It’s best to visit the Dahshur pyramids by taxi, and you cancombine your trip with a visit to nearby Saqqara and Memphis.© NileGuide

editor

contact:tel: 20 (0)16 5070288http://ridingtourism.com/units/fb-stables

location:FB stablesCairo

Camel Ride by the PyramidsOUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:Hold on tight as your camel stands up and sitsdown!

DESCRIPTION: Many people who visit the Pyramids chooseto do a camel ride around the enclosure there. A better idea isto do a camel ride into the desert behind the Pyramids. You getfantastic views of the Pyramids, and can imagine you are partof an old trade caravan, travelling across the desert to sell yourwares in far off, exotic locations.There is nothing quite like a camel ride in the desert: youwill really start to appreciate the power and beauty of thesehaughtily majestic creatures, as you sway from side to side onthe camel’s back, lulled both by the hypnotic motion and themonotonous beauty of the desert.Many stables near the Sphinx can offer camel rides. FBStables are highly recommended: they are used to dealing with

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tourists, are friendly and responsible, and their camels are ingood shape. You can organise any sort of trip with them, from aone hour jaunt around the desert, to a multi-day safari.One of the best times to do a camel ride is for sunset: aswell as a magnificent view of the Pyramids, you will hear thebeautifully mournful evening Call to Prayer from hundreds ofmosques at the same time. Pure magic! © NileGuide

contact:tel: 20 2 33 77 3222http://www.oberoihotels.com/egypt/cairo/oberoimenahouse/dining/dining.asp

location:Mena House OberoiCairo

Moghul Room at the Mena HouseOberoiDESCRIPTION: The Moghul Room is located within the palatialMena House Oberoi hotel in the shadow of the Great Pyramidsin Cairo. Located in forty acres of jasmine scented gardens,Mena House Oberoi has played host to kings and emperors,Heads of State and celebrities. The Moghul Room is ideal fortaste of India. The restaurant is open for dinner. Photo courtesy of Moghul Room at

the Mena House Oberoi

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DAY NOTE: Start the day at Dr Ragab’s Pharaonic village. It’s kitsch and cheesy, but good fun, and if you have kids they will love it!Continue your tour of all things Dr Ragab by heading up the cornice and visiting the Dr Ragab Papyrus institute. While the institute existsmainly to try to sell you papyrus, you will also learn about this fascinating plant: its symbolism, how it is grown, and made into paper. Thepapyrus paintings here are expensive, but they are good quality. By now you should be ready for a spot of lunch. Whilst not pharaonicin any way, it would be a shame to come to Cairo and not experience the wonders of Khan al-Khalili bazaar. Have your taxi take youthere, and spend an hour or so wandering around the bazaar, and haggling with the vendors for souvenirs. Whilst at the bazaar, grab abite to eat at the Egyptian Pancake House. You can also take the weight off your legs for a while at the famous al-Fishawi coffee shop,as patronised by Naguib Mahfouz. In the afternoon, head to the zany Gayer-Anderson Museum next to Ibn Tulun Mosque. Most of thehouse is taken up with an eclectic collection of art and furnishings from the Near East, but is also an interesting ancient Egyptian sectiontoo. Return to your hotel to relax for a bit before going to the spectacular Sound and Light Show at the Pyramids. Note that times varythroughout the year, so you should call ahead in advance, or ask at your hotel, to confirm.

contact:tel: +20 2 571 8675fax: +20 2 568 9266http://www.pharaonicvillage.com/

location:3 El Bahr El Aazam StCairo 12561

1 Dr. Ragab's Pharaonic Village

DESCRIPTION: Accessible only by boat, this private touristproject on an island in the Nile south of the Giza Bridgeattempts to simulate life and work in ancient Egypt. Somefind the living museum campy, but most will enjoy the two-hour boat tour past costumed performers acting out ancientEgyptian agriculture, crafts and industries. There is also a mocktemple and several museums. The acres of papyrus swampsare a botanist's delight, and the two cafes and children'splayground make the island an ideal family daytrip. All tours aremultilingual. © wcities.com

photo courtesy of i_fouad2004


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contact:tel: +20 (0)2 336 7212 / +20(0)2 348 9035fax: +20 (0)2 349 9133http://www.touregypt.net/village/history.htm

location:El-Nil StreetCairo 11211

2 Dr. Ragab's Papyrus Institute

DESCRIPTION: The ancient Egyptian craft of papyrus-making died out around the 10th century ADbut was revived over 1,000 years later by Dr. Ragab, who conceived the idea of building a museumto demonstrate its ancient techniques. Here you will see papyrus go from grass to decoratedwall piece and all the steps in between. The museum details the papyrus making process andits attached art gallery regularly holds exhibitions. More than anything, the boat functions as apapyrus showroom with some of the most expensive, though best quality, papyrus art in Egypt. ©wcities.com

location:Off Hussein SquareCairo 11211

3 Khan el-Khalili Bazaar

DESCRIPTION: Established in the 14th Century, and inconstant use since then, Khan al-Khalili (or more simply, TheKhan) is Egypt at its most intoxicating. Cairo has always beenan important trade centre, and this tradition continues today inthe bustling maze of alleys that forms Khan al-Khalili Bazaar.The Khan itself is relatively small, and is largely devotedto tourists. There are souvenirs here for every taste andbudget: spices, jewellery, inlaid mother-of-pearl boxes andbackgammon sets, water pipes, scarves, lamps, delicateperfume bottles (and the perfume to go in them)… you caneven get yourself a singing, dancing camel!Be warned, though, the traders here are black belts at haggling– so be firm, but maintain your sense of humour and enjoythe experience for what it is: the raucous, beating heart ofcommerce the old-school way.When the banter gets too much, relax in al-Fishawi CoffeeShop with a water pipe and a strong Turkish coffee. This caféhas been open 24 hours a day since 1773, and Egyptian writerNaguib Mahfouz is said to have visited every day up to hisdeath in 2006.At the east end of the Khan is al-Hussein Square, home tothe beautiful al-Hussein Mosque. The western end is bound byMuizz li-Din Allah Street. You can head north to Bab al-Futuh,past Islamic monuments such as al-Aqmar Mosque and Beital-Souhaymi, or south towards Bab Zwayla and the Street ofthe Tentmakers. Leading west from Khan al-Khalili towardsAtaba is al-Muski Street, a crazy local market that is well worthexploring.To get to Khan al-Khalili Bazaar, take a taxi to al-Azhar Mosqueand cross the road via the underpass. The more adventuroustraveller can walk up to the bazaar from Ataba Metro station,along al-Muski.© NileGuide

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location:El-Fishawi AlleyCairo

hours:24 hours daily

4 Al-Fishawi Coffee Shop

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:Come back to al-Fishawi at night, when all thetourists have gone home and the locals have comeout to play.

DESCRIPTION: Located in the heart of Khan al-Khalili, al-Fishawi is Egypt's most famous, and most exciting coffee shop.Al-Fishawi has been open 24 hours a day, 7 days a weekfor hundreds of years, and used to be a favourite haunt ofartists and writers such as Nobel prize-winning author NaguibMahfouz.The so-called "cafe of mirrors" extends along the side of one ofKhan al-Khalili's narrow alleyways, and has a gorgeous, carvedwood (mashrabia) interior. These days, the sheer volumeof people visiting al-Fishawi means rickety wooden tablesand chairs spill out in to the alley itself, with the effervescentwaiters fighting a constant battle to squeeze the extra bodiesin somewhere. The atmosphere is chaotic, with a heady mixof tourists, locals, shop-keepers and trinket-sellers variouslydrinking, shouting, and pushing their way through the throng.Al-Fishawi serves the standard range of sodas, juices and hotdrinks, as well as various flavours of shisha (water pipe). It's agreat place to take a break from shopping in Khan al-Khalili -though don't expect it to be relaxing! © NileGuide

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contact:tel: 2024505871

location:Midan HusseinCairo

hours:Daily 11a-2a

5 Egyptian pancake house

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:Take a selection of savoury and sweet pancakes,and share!

DESCRIPTION: The Egyptian Pancake House is situated in onthe edge Khan al-Khalili bazaar, and is a good place to eat inthe area.Egyptian pancakes (sometimes referred to as pizzas or pies)are actually known as feteers, and are sort of like a pizzatopping stuffed inside a crepe. They are a perfect quick andtasty filler.The Egyptian Pancake House offers various savoury andsweet feteers, and the best thing to do is to take a selection,and share. They aren't the best in Cairo, but they are authentic,and compared to a lot of the overpriced rubbish served up inthe bazaar area, if you do need to eat, this is a good bet.The spicy sausage feteer is particularly good, as is thehoney, nuts and cream. Watch how the chef makes the pastry,slapping it on the counter and swinging it around his head tostretch the dough.At the Egyptian Pancake House, you eat your feteers sitting atplastic tables and chairs balanced on the busy pavement, with

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a stream of vendors and the occasional tour bus parading past.This organised chaos, so typical of Cairo, is a big part of thefun! © NileGuide

contact:tel: +20 2 364 7822

location:4 Maydan Ibn TulunCairo

6 Gayer-Anderson Museum

DESCRIPTION: The Gayer-Anderson museum is formed fromtwo houses of the 15th and 16th centuries joined by a bridge.The houses use the outer wall of Ibn Tulun Mosque for support,and were nearly knocked down in 1928. Luckily, they were sowell preserved that they were spared, and in 1935 a BritishMajor called John Gayer-Anderson was given permission tomove in. He oversaw restoration of the houses, and filled themwith his own personal, eclectic collection of art and furnishingsfrom the Near East. The Gayer-Anderson Museum is jam-packed with Islamic history of all kinds, and even includes aninteresting section inspired by ancient Egypt. Like the adjacentIbn Tulun Mosque, the Gayer-Andersen Museum was used asa location in Bond film The Spy Who Loved Me; and it is saidto be protected by the spirit of a Muslim sheikh who will blindwould-be robbers! As with most sites in Cairo, it's easiest to gethere by taxi. © NileGuide

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contact:tel: +20 (0)2 386 3469 / +20(0)2 385 2880 / +20 (0)2285 4509 (Egyptian TouristAuthority)fax: +20 (0)2 384 4257 / +20(0)2 285 4363 (EgyptianTourist Authority)http://www.egypt.travel/index.php


7 Giza Pyramids: Sound and LightShow

DESCRIPTION: The commentary might not impress you, butthe dazzling light show and awe-inspiring backdrop of theSphinx and Pyramids surely will. Three times a night in threedifferent languages, the Sphinx plays the role of storyteller,narrating the history of ancient Egypt. Shows are held inEnglish, French, Spanish, Italian, Japanese, Russian andArabic. Call ahead to check the time of the performance youwant to attend; private viewing times can be arranged. Thedesert's cold in the evenings, so make sure to carry alongsomething to keep you warm. © wcities.com

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DAY NOTE: Something a little different today. You are going to head to one of the most incredible, and least visited, sites in Egypt: thecollapsed Pyramid of Meidum. The pyramid is about 65 km south of Saqqara, near the oasis of Fayoum, and there are two main waysto do this visit. The easiest way is simply to hire a taxi for the day from Cairo to take you down, wait, and bring you back. You should beon very good terms with your taxi driver now, and so able to organise a reasonable price! The other alternative is to take a public busfrom Cairo to Fayoum, and then hire a taxi there. The Pyramid of Meidum is about 30 km from Fayoum though, so you may not even endup saving that much money. The pyramid is very atmospheric. It was the first attempt at a proper pyramid in Egypt: initially built in thesame way as the Step Pyramid of Saqqara, the steps were then filled in to create a smooth pyramid … which later partially collapsed,leaving only the inner core standing! In spite of this, you can still go inside the pyramid. The burial chamber is, of course, empty, butthe sensation is incredible. A word of warning: the surrounding area is lush with vegetation, and does not receive many visitors, so youmust keep your eyes open for snakes. Not a problem, just tread heavily, watch where you place your feet, and don’t stick your hands intoany cracks. However you choose to get to Meidum, it’s worth taking the time to explore the oasis of Fayoum. The town itself is nothingspecial, though it does have some pretty water wheels, but the surrounding countryside is gorgeous. For your final evening in Cairo,head to the island of Zamalek: home of expats and embassies, restaurants and bars. Try to eat at Abou el Sid if you can. It’s a traditionalEgyptian restaurant that serves great quality local food, beer and shisha. It gets very busy, so it’s best to either get there early, or make areservation. It’s the perfect place to say your goodbyes to Cairo.


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location:Northern tip of Gezira islandCairo

1 Zamalek

DESCRIPTION: Technically, Zamalek is the northern half of the islandGazira, although most people refer to the whole island as Zamalek.The southern tip hosts the Sofitel hotel, Opera house, Planetarium andMuseum of Modern Islamic Art. The middle of the island is taken up bythe greenery of various private members clubs, such as the exclusiveNadi al-Gazira, and also the bizarre Fish Garden park. The northern halfof the island is, by Egyptian standards, a relatively green and peacefulresidential area. The area is affluent, popular with expats, and hosts anumber of foreign embassies. There are lots of good quality shops inZamalek, selling western style and designer clothes, jewellery, and someexquisite and original crafts. The main branch of Fair Trade Egypt is alsoon Zamalek, and well worth a visit. The staff are very knowledgeable,and have lots of information about the community groups they workwith around Egypt. The Sawy Cultural Centre is also on Zamalek, at thewestern end of the busy 26 July street. They always have interesting artexhibitions going on, host lots of concerts, and even have a non-smokingcafé! Finally, Zamalek is home to tons of trendy and quirky restaurants,bars and cafes. Best of the bunch are probably La Bodega, L'Aubergine,and Sequoia; competition is fierce, and the list ever-growing. © NileGuide

photo courtesy of helenromberg

contact:tel: +20 (0)2 2735 9640 / +20(0)10 100 8500fax: +20 (0)2 3748 8109http://www.abouelsid.com - http://www.deyafa.net

location:157, 26th of July Street, justdown from Diwan book storeCairo

hours:12p-2a daily

2 Abou el Sid

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:Finding shisha and beer together in a restaurant israre, so make the most of it

DESCRIPTION: Abou el Sid, located on Zamalek, offersexcellent, authentic Egyptian cuisine in very atmosphericsurroundings. Décor is traditional Arabesque, heavy on themashrabiyya wooden panelling, but the atmosphere is livelyand down to earth. A word of warning though - the staff can beincredibly rude, and the service isn't always great.Don't let this put you off though, because Abou el Sid is anexcellent place to share a selection of mouth-watering mezzes,and offers a wide range of traditional Egyptian mains. Try theRabbit with Molokheiya for a real taste of rural Egypt, their old-school fish Sayadeya, or opt for Egypt's national dish, Koshary(a mix of pasta, lentils, fried onions and tomato sauce). Abouel Sid also serves a range of alcohol, and Egyptian water pipes(shishas).Abou el Sid gets very busy, so it's advisable to book inadvance. If you can't get a table, L'Aubergine and La Bodegaare near by, or you could try the Abou el Sid branches inMohandiseen, Maadi or City Stars. © NileGuide

Photo courtesy of Abou el Sid

Cairo Snapshot

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Local InfoDelicious chaos. There’s no better wayto sum up the exotic, intoxicating andinfuriating nature of Cairo, the largest city inAfrica and the Middle East. Because Cairois not just about itsPharaonic heritage, evenif it does boast the last remainingWonderof the Ancient World. Cairo is a sprawlingmass of humanity in which different worldscollide, and the past rubs shoulders with thepresent.

SoaringIslamic architecture peers downon bustling bazaars, where young boysslip through the throngs delivering tea tothe haggle-happy masses. SereneCopticchurches huddle together next to theremains of theRoman fortress.

Donkey carts battletaxis for supremacyover the streets. The traffic either movesat breakneck speed, or it doesn’t move atall. Rich fast-food suburbia snuggles up topoorer, more baladi areas, where workerseatfuul in the street.

Old men in galabayas sitsmoking shishaand playing backgammon in local cafés.The rattle-slap of the pieces and thehubble-bubble of their pipes merge withthe cacophony of horns, laughter andblaring Arabic pop. The sweet smells of fruittobacco and spices mingle, seasoning thetraffic fumes.

And cutting through it all, five times aday, is the Call to Prayer, ethereal andmesmerising. But older even than Cairo,the Nile flows on, dividing the city in two.

How it all breaks down

Cairo is not really one city. Itsstory stretchesback for thousands of years, from ancientEgyptian times through to the present day.The current Arabic name for Cairo is al-Qahirah, which can be translated as “TheVictorious”, or “The Conqueror.” Egyptiansalso refer to Cairo as Masr, which meansEgypt.

The city is huge, and is divided intonumerousneighbourhoods. Here are someof the most important:

Downtown Cairo is the centre of themodern city, a mish-mash of commerceand housing. Here you can visit thewonders of theEgyptian Museum,including the treasures of Tutankhamen.

There are also a fewart galleries, andnumerousrestaurants,cafes and bars.

Towards the east, Downtown shades in tothe area known loosely asIslamic Cairo.This is where you find the liveliest markets,such as Ataba, and of courseKhan al-Khalili, as well as the most majesticIslamicarchitecture. One of the most famous Cairomosques isal-Azhar Mosque, arguably themost important in the Sunni Muslim world.At the edge of Islamic Cairo, on top of theMuqattam Hills, theCitadel stands watchover Cairo, as it has done for centuries.

Out towards the east and the north-eastare the neighbourhoods ofNasr CityandHeliopolis. Virtually self-contained cities,there is little of interest here to the casualvisitor, though there are lots ofhotels inHeliopolis.

South of Downtown Cairo, stretching alongthe Cornice, are thehotels and embassiesofGarden City. Below this isOld Cairo, hometo theCoptic Christian quarter, and oneof the most picturesque parts of the city.Even further south is the expat enclaveofMaadi, one of the best places in Cairoto do afelucca ride. A way east of Maadi,you can find theNew Cairo development,a partial shelter from the hurly burly of thecentre.

Al-Manyal andZamalek are two largeislands in the centre of the city, aroundwhich the Nile flows. Zamalek is a blend ofthe posh and the westernised, with goodshopping, lots ofrestaurants andnightlife,and some swankyhotels.

West of the Nile, in what isreallyGiza rather than Cairo, arethe residential neigbourhoodsofImbaba,Mohandiseen,Agouza,DokkiandGiza. With a number ofhotelsandrestaurants, many tourists choose tostay in Dokki.

The other alternative is to head furtherwest, to where Giza crashes into theancient past. The city literally spreads allthe way to the edge of thePyramids, andthere are lots ofhotel resorts that provide aconvenient base forexploring the Pharaonicmonuments ofGiza,Saqqara andDahshur.

Further west still, near the start of the Alex-Desert Road, is one of Cairo's swish newsatellite cities:6th October City. This is

where many of the great and the good livein order to escape the chaos of Cairo itself.

Stuff you need to know

CultureEgypt is a quite conservative Islamiccountry. About 85% of the population areMuslim, while the remainder are Christian,mainly Coptic. While Egypt is nowhere nearso conservative as, for example, SaudiArabia, and the locals for the most part areused to dealing with foreigners, a few thingsare worth bearing in mind.

Dress sense: This is important, but doesn’tneed to be a headache. Women areadvised to cover their shoulders andknees as a minimum(but you don’t needto wear a headscarf). This is both prudent,and respectful. You are unlikely to offendanyone in touristy areas, but you willattract a whole lot more attention if you arewandering around in shorts and singlet.For men it doesn’t matter so much, butit’s considered more respectable to weartrousers rather than shorts.

Public behaviour: It’s best for couples toavoid overt signs of affection. Holdinghands is fine, but full-on pashing in thestreet definitely isn’t! Physical contactbetween the sexes in Egypt is limited,though you will see men holding hands andkissing each other – that’s how it’s donehere! Also, be mindful of the Call to Prayer.Egyptians will usually turn their music offso it doesn’t compete, and this certainlyisn’t the time for you to “Cheers” and downa shot of vodka. Likewise, watch out forprayer mats on the street, and try to avoidstepping on them.

Hospitality: Egyptians are super-friendly,inquisitive, and(Cairenes in particular) cansometimes come off as a little blunt. Youwill be regaled wherever you go with criesof “Welcome in Egypt,” and “What’s yourname?” Many people will want to practisetheir English with you. One of the firstquestions people often ask is your maritalstatus, or your religion! You may also belucky enough to be invited to someone’shome for a meal; or even better yet, to awedding! Go, as it will likely be the highlightof your trip.(Click here for more informationonfood andgoing out.)

Health and Safety

Cairo Snapshot continued

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For such a large city, Cairo is incrediblysafe. There is very little chance of yourbeing robbed, much less attacked. Youshould, of course, still take all the normalprecautions you would when travellinganywhere in the world.

The combination of crowds, sun andpollution can wear down visitors to Cairo.So drink plenty of water, and make sureto slip-slap-slop! Officially, the tap waterhere is safe to drink because it’s so heavilychlorinated, but it still takes some gettingused to. Bottled water is widely available,and cheap. Unfortunately, you can’t doanything about the crowds or pollution– you just have to suck it up! Also, beprepared that many people in Cairo smoke,everywhere. Very few restaurants or barshave non-smoking areas.

It’s not unusual for visitors to suffer from about of traveller’s diarrhoea, or “Ramesses’Revenge”. You just have to take this inyour stride and ride it out. Keeping wellhydrated, and washing your hands beforeputting them anywhere near your mouth,will reduce your chances of being struckdown. Bear in mind that some of themoney is filthy. If you do need to grabany medication, there are pharmacieseverywhere, and the staff are well trainedand usually speak English.

The biggest annoyance for most visitorsis the hassle factor. Anywhere the touristsgo, the salesman and touts spring up too.They are persistent, silver-tongued, andvery good at what they do. The majority ofEgyptians are honest, and almost painfullygenerous and helpful, but a small minorityin the tourist trade view all foreigners aswalking$$ signs, so be prepared. It shouldgo without saying that whenever you arebuying anything in the bazaars, you will beexpected to haggle.

Sometimes, this hassle has a darker edgeto it, and foreign women here(as well as thelocals) can fall prey to sexual harassmentin the streets. This is normally confined toinappropriate comments and cat-calls, butthe odd grope is not unheard of, especiallyin crowded areas. You can minimise thechances of this happening by dressingconservatively, and travelling with a man ifpossible. For single women, wearing a fakewedding ring is also a good idea.

Money and other practicalities

The currency here is the EgyptianPound(LE). ATM’s and exchanges arewidely available, though not many shopsor restaurants will let you pay with plastic.Small change can sometimes be hard tofind, so hoard your 1 LE notes(you’ll needthem to use the toilet in many places).Baksheesh is a big part of life in Egypt. Itcan be thought of as tipping – for a servicegiven, out of charity, or to smooth the waythrough the machinations of governmentbureaucracy.

Internet cafés are all over the place, cheapto use and with generally good connectionspeeds. Many cafes also have Wi-Fiaccess. Post offices are common, thoughthe post system is not the most reliablein the world. If you want to call home, thestreet kiosks sell phone cards. Minatel isthe best – the green and yellow phonebooths.

The most important piece of advicePack your sense of humour along withoodles of patience, throw out yourpreconceptions, and just dive right in! Cairocan be a challenging city to visit. Yes, it isbig, smelly, dirty and crowded. Yes, somepeople will try to rip you off, take advantageof you, or ask you for baksheesh. Yes, eventhe simplest task can turn into a massivemission. But that’s the game, here. Scratchbeneath the surface, and you’ll find thereis nowhere on earth that is as exhilarating,fascinating or welcoming as Cairo.

Whether you are here for aweekendor aweek, on abusiness trip oryourhoneymoon, interested inPharaonicmonuments,getting off the beaten track,or simply thefood, Cairo has it all. It trulydeserves its medieval appellation of Ummal-Dounia, the “Mother of the World.”© NileGuide

HistoryCairo is a city in which the past and presentare inextricably intertwined. Its history islong, colourful, and turbulent. Despite thepresence of thePyramids, Cairo is nottechnically a Pharaonic city. Rather, it is anamalgamation of separate cities that wereestablished by successive conquerors sincePersian times. But seeing as modern dayGreater Cairo has expanded to include theremains of the ancient Egyptian past, this isthe natural starting point for an explorationof Cairo’s tangled history.

Pre-history

The savannahs of Egypt were inhabitedby hunter-gatherers more than 250,000years ago. During the Neolithic period(fromaround 9,500 BC) communities beganto settle in both northern and southernEgypt. By around 4000 BC, it seems Egyptwas divided into two vying federations:Lower Egypt(the delta region) and UpperEgypt(the Nile valley south of where thedelta begins).

The Pharaonic period: 3,100 – 525 BC(Dates given are the conventionallyaccepted approximate ones, but are stillmuch disputed.)

Around 3,100 BC, a semi-mythical figureknown as Menes is said to have unifiedUpper and Lower Egypt into a singleentity. It was around this time that the cityofMemphis was established, situated atthe beginning of the delta – the symbolicmeeting point of Upper and Lower Egypt.

Memphis was probably the first dynasticcity in world. It was the capital city of Egyptduring the Early Dynastic Period(3,100to 2,686 BC) – when theStep Pyramidof Saqqara was built – and the OldKingdom(2,686 to 2,181 BC) – when thepyramids atDahshur andGiza were built.

Throughout the following 1,650-oddyears of stability and chaos, Memphisremained a key ancient Egyptian city –swinging between capital city, and importantadministrative centre. Its power was notfully diminished until the Arab invasion ofthe 7th Century AD.

As well as the remains of Memphis, andthepyramids and tombs of the necropolis,the other main ancient Egyptian settlementwithin what is now Greater Cairo was thereligious city of On, known to the Greeks asHeliopolis. Situated to the north-west of themodern suburb ofHeliopolis, there’s nothingleft to see these days.

Of Persians and Greeks: 525 – 30 BC

When the Persians conquered Egypt in525 BC, they established a new city on theeast bank of the Nile, called Babylon-in-Egypt. This city grew up around a fortressbuilt to protect a canal linking the Nile to theRed Sea, and was situated in the area nowknown asOld Cairo. This settlement marksthe beginning of the history of Cairo proper,


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around 2,500 years after Memphis was firstestablished by the ancient Egyptians.

When Alexander the Great conqueredEgypt in 332 BC, he paid tribute to thepriests of Memphis, but chose to buildthe capital city that bears his name up onthe north coast. The Ptolemaic Dynasty,established by Alexander’s GeneralPtolemy, ruled Egypt for around 300 years,but had little to do with Babylon-in-Egypt.

Roman and Byzantine rule: 30 BC – 642BC

During the twilight years of Ptolemaicrule, Roman influence over Egypt grew.Cleopatra VII fought to keep Egyptindependent, bearing Julius Caesar a son,and then allying herself with Mark Anthony.They were defeated by Octavian in 30 BC,and Egypt was finally swallowed up by theRoman Empire.

Rome’s main interest in Egypt was as asource of food. They therefore guardedthe important trade routes, and in 130AD Emperor Trajan rebuilt the fortressofBabylon-on-the-Nile. Alexandria waseffectively left alone, and remained thecultural and administrative capital of Egypt.

The Jewish and Egyptian pagan inhabitantsof Babylon-on-the-Nile were resentful ofHellenistic and Roman dominance, andwith the introduction of Christianity toEgypt in the 1st Century AD, many of themconverted.

After Emperor Constantine madeChristianity the official imperial religion inthe early 4th Century, churches startedbeing built in the area. Some of these canstill be seen in Old Cairo today, such astheHanging Church and theChurch of StSergius.

The Arab invasion and the establishment ofFustat: 642 – 969 AD

When the Muslim armies of General AmrIbn al-Aas invaded Egypt in the 7th CenturyAD, the population of Babylon-in-Egyptbarely resisted.(They were still beingpersecuted by their Byzantine overlords.)Al-Aas established a camp near the fort,and went off to conquer Alexandria.

When he returned victorious in 642 AD, hefound a dove nesting in his tent. Declaringthis a sign from Allah, he established onthis spot the first mosque ever built in Egypt– theMosque of Amr Ibn al-Aas. This area

of Old Cairo became the focal point forEgypt’s new capital city, known as al-Fustat,“The Camp”.

The next few hundred years saw aconvoluted internecine struggle within theIslamic world, in which the Damascus-based Umayyad dynasty gave way to theBaghdad-based Abbasids, who built theirown capital city to the north-east of Fustat.

Successive, short-lived Egyptian dynasties,such as the Tulunids(who founded theIbnTulun Mosque) and the Ikhshidids, alsobuilt their own capitals, which all mergedtogether to form the sprawling metropolis ofFustat-Masr.

These successive settlements, fromPersian times through to the early Islamiccities, are the area known today asOldCairo.

The Fatimids come to town: 969 – 1171 AD

The Fatimid khalifs were Shi’a Muslimsfrom Tunisia who conquered Egypt in 969AD and formed an empire that stretchedacross much of North Africa, Syria andwestern Arabia. In time-honoured fashion,the Fatimids established their own capitalcity further north of Fustat-Masr.

They named this city al-Qahirah, “TheVictorious”, which is the Arabic name forCairo today. This Fatimid city is looselysynonymous with the area tourists knowtoday asIslamic Cairo. The walls builtaround it are still standing in places, as arethenorth andsouth gates.

Under the first two rulers, the city wasprosperous and stable. Beautiful Islamicmonuments, such asal-Azhar Mosque,were built. Later rulers, such as the insaneal-Hakim, builder ofal-Hakim Mosque, wereless successful, and decay began slowly toset in.

Saladin and the Ayyubid dynasty: 1171 –1250 AD

Sent to Cairo to help fight against theCrusaders, Salah al-Din al-Ayyubi becameruler of Egypt on the death of the lastFatimid khalif in 1171 AD. Known in thewest as Saladin, he spent much of his ruleliberating territory in the Holy Land from theCrusaders.

Salah al-Din built theCitadel on a hillbetween al-Qahirah and Fustat-Masr, thusbringing both under his control. He alsoextended the city walls, built numerous

hospitals, and established madrassas topromote Sunni rather than Shi’a Islam. Herefused to take a religious title, referring tohimself as al-Sultan(“The Power”) instead.

His successors managed to repel the FifthCrusade, but came to rely too heavily onwarrior-slaves from Central Asia in theirarmy. When Sultan Ayyub died with no heir,and his wife – a former slave girl – openlyassumed power, the time was ripe for thewarrior-slave caste of Mamluks to takeover.

The Mamluk intrigues: 1250 – 1517 AD

The period of Mamluk rule was one ofintense contradictions. On the one hand,they built extensively across the wholecity, commissioning some of Cairo’sfinest mosques and Islamic monuments.Many of them can still be seen todayinIslamic Cairo, such as theSultan HassanMosque,al-Mu’ayyad Mosque, theMosque-Madrassa of al-Ghouri, and theMausoleumof Sultan Qaitbay.

They also built up public institutions, andfostered the development of learning, thearts and trade.

On the other hand, their rule wascharacterised by bloody intrigue and feuds,as rival factions attempted to scheme,murder and sodomise their way to power.

Ottoman rule, British occupation and therise of nationalism: 1517 – 1952 AD

In 1517 Egypt was absorbed into theOttoman empire. Little more than aprovincial backwater, it was largely left to itsown devices, and Mamluk power remainedstrong.

Following the French invasion of 1798,ultimately repulsed by combined Britishand Ottoman forces, an Albanian officer inthe Ottoman army stepped in to the powervacuum. Mohammed Ali was confirmedPasha of Egypt in 1805, and immediatelybegan to consolidate his rule.

After destroying the remnants of theMamluk power structure, he enlistedEuropean help to start modernising Egypt,building infrastructure such as railways,barrages on the Nile, and factories. Morethan anyone else, he is considered to bethe founder of modern Egypt. TheMosqueof Mohammed Ali at theCitadel stilldominates the Cairo skyline to this day.


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For the most part, his successors continuedthis period of modernisation. In 1869 theSuez Canal was opened, under KhediveIsmail. However, all this modernisationcame at a price, and Egypt found itself everdeeper in debt.

In 1875, Ismail had to sell his shares inthe Suez Canal to the British government,at which point most of the profits from thecanal began to bleed out of the country.Despite technically still being part of theOttoman empire, Britain exerted increasingcontrol over Egypt, until it was effectively acolony in everything but name.

During the First World War, Egypt wasofficially made a British protectorate.Following the dissolution of the OttomanEmpire after the war, Britain was forced bya growing nationalist movement to grantEgypt a limited form of independence, andFouad(one of Khedive Ismail’s sons) wascrowned king.

In the period leading up the Second WorldWar, tensions ran high between the British,the King(perceived as a British stooge)and the Wafd nationalist party. After thewar, anti-British riots and strikes supportedby the Muslim Brotherhood led to thetemporary evacuation of British troops, anddemocratic elections in which the Wafdparty formed a government.

Nasser and the 1952 revolution: 1952 –1970

In January 1952 the British garrison inIsmailia attacked the main police station,believing the police were aiding theMuslim Brotherhood in their campaign ofresistance. A number of police officerswere killed, and the following day hugeriots broke out in protest in Cairo. KingFarouk sent in the army to control them,and dissolved the government.

On July 23rd 1952 a group known as theFree Officers seized power, deposing KingFarouk. The official leader of the group wasGeneral Naguib, though Colonel GamalAbdel Nasser was regarded as being thereal power behind the movement.(Notethat although commonly referred to as arevolution, this event was really a militarycoup d’état.)

On 26th July 1953 Egypt was declared arepublic. In June 1956 Nasser was sworn inas president. During his presidency, Egyptfinally wrested control of the Suez Canal

from the British during the 1956 Suez crisis,and began construction of the Aswan HighDam. Feudal estates were broken up andredistributed, and advances were made inboth education and health care.

On the other hand, his vision of Pan-Arabism led him to get involved in theYemen civil war, and also helped precipitatethe disastrous Six Day War. In true Sovietstyle, his regime was brutal in preventingand crushing any form of dissent oropposition.

Sadat switches it all around: 1970 – 1981

When Anwar Sadat took presidency onNasser’s death in 1970, he set aboutreversing Nasser’s policies of centralizedeconomic control. In 1973, Egypt, Jordanand Syria launched the 6th October War, inwhich they managed to break into Israeli-occupied Sinai, before eventually beingpushed back.

This war, commemorated in theOctoberWar Panorama, changed everything.Sadat instituted his “open door” policy ofprivate and foreign investment, and therewas no shortage of Arab investors nowwilling to pump money into the country.The economy grew rapidly, although thisnew-found wealth was not distributed at allequitably. Sadat also allowed some rivalpolitical parties, and relaxed censorship ofthe press.

The war also paved the way for the CampDavid Agreement of 1978 in which – inorder to curry favour with the West – Sadatrecognised Israel’s right to exist, in returnfor getting back the Sinai. As punishmentfor this perceived betrayal, Egypt wasostracised from the Arab world.

Sadat also courted organisations such asthe Muslim Brotherhood, believing theirbrand of political Islam would act as acounter-balance to the Left. This backfiredon him, as politicised Islam became evermore powerful. When he finally crackeddown on these groups, it was too late. Hewas assassinated in 1981.

The reign of Mubarak: 1981 – present day

Mohammed Hosni Mubarak is Egypt’slongest serving ruler since MohammedAli. He has presided over Egypt during atremendously difficult period in its history,including two Gulf Wars and September11th, continuing problems in the occupiedPalestinian territories, increasing internal

Islamic militancy, and a handful of terroristattacks against foreigners. He has had totread a thin and treacherous line betweencosying up to the West, maintaining Egypt’sstatus in the eyes of the Arab world, andpreventing domestic troubles.

While the economy appears robust, thegap between rich and poor is growing fast,and the majority of ordinary Egyptians arestruggling to make ends meet. Foreign debtis huge, and prices for basic commoditiesrising. There is growing cynicism andanger with a government that uses thebogeyman of Islamic terrorism to justifyrepressive domestic policies – includingthe continuation of the Emergency Lawthat was put in place when Sadat wasassassinated – and yet seems to pursuepolicies that could further radicalise thepopulation.

There is also concern that Mubarak isgrooming his son to assume power fromhim in 2011, in elections that will appearfair, but will be anything but.

While tourism remains strong(thoughsubject to the vagaries of internationalpolitics and economics), and Egypt is assafe and vibrant a place to visit as it hasever been, it is clear that – as for much ofthe rest of the world – the coming yearswill be crucial in determining the course ofEgypt’s future.

© NileGuide

Hotel InsightsAs one of the oldest tourist destinationson earth, Cairo has a whole host of hotelsto suit every budget and need. Whetheryou are afamily looking for somewherekid-friendly, atraveller on business, orabackpacker travelling on a shoe-string,there’s something just right for you.

The first thing to remember with hotels inCairo is thatstandards tend to be lowerthan in more developed countries. A threestar hotel in Cairo is not comparable to, forexample, a three star hotel in London. Thisdoesn’t have to be a problem, it just meansyou need to have a little more patience withthe staff, and you should check your roomcarefully.

Make sure everything works, and that it isclean – especially the bathroom. Inlowerbudget hotels,water can be a problem.There may be no hot water, little water


29

pressure, or the toilet may not flush. Noworries, just ask for another room. Andwhile we’re on the subject of the toilet,don’t throw toilet paper into it – the sewagesystem can’t handle it!

You don’t normally have to worry aboutmosquitoes in Cairo, but what you do haveto worry about is thenoise! In general,rooms towards the top of the hotel –away from the street – will be quieter.The problem with this is that some of theelevators in Cairo hotels are as old asthePyramids, and can take an age to arrive.Note that even if your room is quiet asthe grave, there’s a good chance you’llbe woken up by theCall to Prayer eachmorning anyway. Hey – it’s Egypt, and thisis part of the fun!

It’s also important to check carefully exactlywhat isincluded in the price. Breakfast couldbe extra, and taxes are sometimes addedon top rather than included in the quotedprice. Also, be wary of using the phone inyour room – that’s an easy way to rack upan extortionate bill!

Although most hotels will have some sort ofrestaurant, and the bigger hotels will havenumerous facilities, some hotels are dry,and serveno alcohol at all.

In terms ofpayment, be aware that notall hotels will accept plastic. As withmost parts of the world, rack rates aremuch more expensive than booking thehotel in advance. You may find that youcan negotiate a discount on your room,especially in cheaper places, or during quiettimes, but certainly don’t bank on it.

Finally, and perhaps most importantly, bewary of thetours offered by hotels in Cairo.Whether the swankiest resort or the dirtiestflop-house, they will offer tours around themain sites of Cairo. Sometimes these arevery aggressively pushed on to tourists.They will always be much more expensivethan arranging something yourself, and youmay find you spend more time at papyrusfactories and perfume stores than you do atthe sites themselves.

If you don’t like dealingwith taxi drivers, youcan ask your hotel to arrange a driver ortaxi for you. It will still be more than flagginga cab down on the street should cost, but –in theory at least – it’s less hassle!

Where to stay

It all depends on what you are looking for!

Theluxury resorts out near thePyramidsinGiza are top notch, and great forpampering yourself. They also tend tobe the best option for families, and comeequipped with swimming pools, gyms andother recreational facilities. However, theirproximity to thePharaonic sites means theyare not that convenient for the rest of Cairo.If you are staying in Cairo for a while, youwill spend a lot of time and money shuttlingback and forth. Some of the best hotelsin Cairo are out here, such as the world-famousMena House Oberoi,Le MeridienPyramids, and theCataract PyramidsResort.

If you are conscious of your budget,thenDowntown is undoubtedly the placeto be. Most of Cairo’scheap hotels andhostels are located either on or nearMidan Tahrir. They all tend to be prettysimilar, and rather hit and miss, but goodoptions includePension Roma,Lialy Hostel,andWake up! All of these hotels areminutes away from the captivatingEgyptianMuseum.

If you want the convenience of Downtown,have a bit more money to spend, and fancya trip down memory lane, then theWindsorHotel is a good bet. While its dark woodmashrabia panelling has seen better days,it still oozes charm, and has one of thebestrooftop bars in Cairo. Alternatively, headtoTalisman Hotel at the top of Talaat Harbstreet for one of Cairo’s most enchantingboutique hotel experiences.

That’s not to say that Downtown Cairo hasno luxury options – it does! TheRamsesHilton provides the level of comfort andservice that one would expect of theHilton chain, and is popular with businesstravellers and visiting “Gulfies”. TheswishNile Hotel is slightly more central,whilst the Conrad International is a bitnorth of Downtown, along the Cornice, andis another popular option with businesstravellers.

The hotels ofGarden City are ideal forthe visitor who wants a great location,but doesn’t want to be smack bang inthe bedlam of Downtown. Hotels suchas theFour Seasons Nile Plaza, andtheSemiramis Intercontinental, are amongstthe best in Cairo, but there’s also the moreaffordable, though no less charming, optionof theGarden City House Hostel.

If it’s super luxury you are after, theGrandHyatt Hotel – at the north tip ofManyalIsland – has it in spades. And if youwant to rub shoulders with expats andembassies, and have access to some ofthe mostwesternised nightlife in Cairo,then theZamalek hotels are a good bet.TheCairo Marriott and theSofitel El-Gezirahdeserve their reputations for opulenceand service, whereas hotels such astheFlamenco are for those who want atouch of class without breaking the bank.

Business travellers might prefer to staynearer to the airport and conferencefacilities ofHeliopolis. Some of the biggieshere include theMovenpick Heliopolis,LeMeridian Heliopolis, and theSonesta Hotel.

Wherever you choose to stay, and nomatter how comfortable it is, make sure youdon’t forget to head out and explore thebestsights Cairo has to offer!© NileGuide

Restaurants InsightsDrinking and dining options in Cairo areas varied as the city itself. You can graba cheap, tasty and filling street snack onthe fly, sit down to a gourmet four coursemeal at a posh restaurant, and everythingin between. As well as local cuisine, a widerange of international food is available allover the city, including the main Westernfast food outlets.

Egyptian food

Egyptian food tends to be simple,hearty and filling, heavy on the oiland spices(though rarely spicy, as infiery).Bread is a massive part of theEgyptian diet, and the country has one ofthe highest(if not the highest) per capitaconsumption in the world. In fact, theEgyptian word for bread is the same asfor life – ‘eesh. It mainly falls into twocategories: thick, wholegrain “baladi” bread;and thinner, whiteshami bread, a bit like pitabread.

Two traditional dishes, often eaten forbreakfast, includefuul andtaamiya. Fuul isa sort of stew made of fava beans, eithermashed up or served whole, and rangesfrom the rather bland to the deliciouslyspiced. Taamiya is the Egyptian versionoffalafel – mashed up and deep friedbean(usually chickpea) patties.


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Both fuul and taamiya sandwiches areavailable at hole-in-the-wall restaurantson almost every street in Cairo, and costnext to nothing. It’s best to buy these froma busy restaurant, as early in the day aspossible(they’re disgusting if they’ve beenlying around for a while), and if you havea sensitive stomach, it might be sensibleto exercise some caution. One of the mostfamous, and cleanest, places to get fuuland taamiya is atFelfela – an Egyptian fastfood chain that has branches all over theplace, includingDowntown Cairo and bythePyramids.(Be warned – the one at thePyramids is very touristy.)

The closest thing Egypt has to a nationaldish iskoshary. This is a carbohydratebomb, usually made out of different typesof pasta, lentils, chickpeas, fried onions andtomato salsa. You can also add a potentchilli sauce(careful, it’s as evil as it looks!),and a pungent mix of lime juice and garlicknown as da’a. Koshary tastes a lot betterthan it sounds, is extremely filling, and verycheap – a large dish will rarely be morethan around 5 LE.

Like fuul and taamiya, koshary isavailable at street restaurants all overCairo.Downtown in particular has someof the best koshary joints. Probably themost famous in Cairo, if not the world,isAbu Tarek. TheAl-Omda chain also doesa decent bowl, and you can add chicken ormeat to it.

Another common form of street foodisshawarma – a chicken or meat(meat inEgypt effectively means beef) sandwich,where the flesh is cut from a sizzling,revolving spit, a bit like a donner kebab.Slightly less common and a little moreexpensive than other street foods, you stillwon’t have to go far before you bump intoa shwarma joint.Gad is probably the mostfamous of the chains that serve them.

Finally, standardkebab andkofta are alsopretty common, usually sold by the kilo.The best ones are grilled over charcoal.You’ll also notice lots of tiny restaurantsservingspit-roasted chickens. A wholechicken, with bread, salad and rice, willusually cost around 25 LE.

Most decentEgyptian/Oriental restaurantswill offer some variation of the abovefoods, though at a higher cost. Mezzes,especiallytahina(sesame seed paste)andbaba ghanoush(aubergine) are

also common;hummus less so.Restaurants such asAbou Shakra(justnext toGarden City),Cedars(inMohandiseen),Andrea(inGiza),Al-Omda(allover the place) andAlfi Bey(Downtown) aregood mid-range Oriental style restaurants.

Other typical Egyptian foods includefattah –a mix of rice, bread and meat, served with atomato sauce(a bit like an Egyptian Biryani)– andfeteer. Feteers are also known asEgyptian pancakes, pies or pizzas, thoughthey most resemble a heavy, stuffed crepe.You can have them sweet or savoury.Cheap, cheerful and ubiquitous, there are anumber of jointsDowntown that serve them,and of course the ever-famousEgyptianPancake House inKhan al-Khalili.

Desserts are usually super-sweet.Mihallabiya is a kind of sweet crossbetween rice pudding and blancmange,sometimes seasoned with nuts andraisins.Umm Ali is a very typical Egyptianpudding, like mushy, milky bread puddingmixed with nuts and raisons.

Finally, special mention must gotomolokhiya. Molokhiya, also knownas Jew’s Mallow, is as Egyptian asthePyramids. It’s a slimy green vegetablethat is not dissimilar to spinach, and isusually served as a gloopy soup, alongwith rice and a meat such as rabbit. It hasa most disturbing texture, and is a ratheracquired taste, but is as traditional as itcomes. A good place to try Molokhiya isatAbou el Sid restaurant inZamalek. This isone of the best, and most famous,traditionalEgyptian restaurants in Cairo.

Note that Cairo is not the best city in theworld forvegetarians. With all the fuul,taamiya and koshary knocking around,you’re not going to starve, but your optionswill be limited in most places.L’Auberginein Zamalek used to be an exclusivelyvegetarian restaurant, though it now servesmeat dishes too. It does, however, stillhave an OK choice of veggie stuff.MezzaLuna, also inZamalek, is also a good choicefor some mouth-watering meatless pastadishes.

Drinks

Sweet, blacktea is the most commondrink. Sweet here means at least two, andpossibly as many as four sugars! Mostrestaurants are used to foreigners’ strangeways, and will bring the sugar separately.They might even offer you milk, thoughmint

would be a more normal accompanimenthere!

Hot on the heels of tea, is thick,grainyTurkish coffee. Also usually servedsweet, this tiny shot would kick the livingcaffeine out of a double espresso if it camedown to a celebrity coffee death match. Justmake sure not to swallow the grains – theyare left in the bottom of the glass.

Nescafe is commonly available, andconsidered a delicacy, and the normalrange ofespressos andlattes will be found inany posh joint.

Fresh juices are served everywhere,both in restaurants and at streetstalls.Lemon,sugarcane andmango tendto be available year round. Others, suchaspomegranate andwatermelon, areseasonal.

Egyptians also drink some other, slightlymore unusual drinks.Karkade is an infusionmade out of hibiscus leaves. Served hotor cold, it’s like Egyptian Ribena, and issaid to be very good for the heart and bloodpressure. Infusions ofaniseed andfennel arealso quite common, andsahlab is a thick,custardy drink that is perfect for cold winterdays.

And yes –alcohol is widely available, both inrestaurants and bars, and from some bottleshops. See thenightlife section for moredetails!

Western food

You’ll find loads of decentforeign cuisineall over Cairo, especially in areas suchasZamalek, Mohandiseen and Maadi, andin the posh hotels.Italian is particularlypopular, though there is also a fair amountofFrench,Chinese,Indian, and even someexcellentThai. Bizarrely, Cairo is prettygood for affordablesushi, and there is anexcellent Swiss restaurant calledLittleSwiss down in Maadi, if you fancy a touchof fondue. If you are craving a steak,head toSteak Out inDokki, orLe SteakinZamalek.Fuddruckers andLucille’s doparticularly good burgers.

Fast food suchasMcDonald’s,KFC,Hardee’s andPizzaHut is everywhere, especiallyaroundDowntown,Dokki, MohandiseenandHeliopolis. There is even a Pizza Hutopposite thePyramids!

Eating out and staying in


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Egyptians tend to go out to eat very late. It’snot unusual to see families – with children– settling down to eat their evening meal at10.30, or even later!

If you are lucky enough to be invited to anEgyptian’s house for lunch or dinner – go!All of the local foods described above aremuch tastier when they made in the familykitchen according to the old family recipe,and it’s a great chance to get to know moreabout Egyptian culture.

Do try a little of the wide range of dishesyou will no doubt be presented with.Don’t, however, stuff yourself, becausethe food will keep coming, and coming,and coming…! You don’t need to finisheverything put in front of you. In fact, if youdo, more will be brought out, since it is thehost’s responsibility to ensure their guestis satisfied, and Egyptian’s take hospitalityvery seriously.

Depending on where you are, you maybe eating with your hands. This is quitenormal. Since Egyptians use their left handin the toilet, you’ll find some will avoid usingit when eating(except, perhaps, to help withtearing bread). Don’t worry too much if youfind this difficult, because the majority ofpeople ignore this custom anyway.

Finally, it’s polite to take along some sortof gift for the family if you are invited totheir home for dinner. A package of Arabicsweets from the local bakery, or a bunch offlowers, should do the trick. Enjoy!

© NileGuide

Nightlife InsightsCairo is a genuine24 hour city, and whileit may not seem like it to the casual visitor,the city has avaried and vibrant nightlife.While it is not so alcohol driven as in manyWestern cities, there are plenty ofbars andclubs, and a large range oflive music. Thereis also a thrivingarts scene andplenty ofcinemas.

Most Egyptians tend to go out late, andmany venues don’t get going until after 10pm. Strict licensing laws, both for liquorand for music, mean that few places stayopen past about 3 am, although a numberof cafes are open 24 hours.

The majority of Cairo’s nightlife isconcentrated aroundDowntown,Zamalek,and to a lesser extent,Maadi.

Bars

It’s often difficult in Cairo to determinewhat is a bar, and what is arestaurant:many restaurants serve alcohol, andmany bars serve food. Bars in Cairo rangefrom thespit and sawdustDowntowndives,tohipZamalekbistros, toposh hotel lounges.There are also a handful ofrooftop bars,perfect for whiling away those stickysummer evenings.

Notable Downtown bars include:Horeya – a lively, no frills coffee shopthat also serves a local Egyptianbeer,Stella(brewed in Egypt, but nowowned by Heineken). The clientele includesall sorts of locals, expats and tourists.Stella Bar – cramped, dingy and dirt-cheap.TheOdeon Palace – rooftop bar on top oftheOdeon Palace Hotel; serves food andsometimes shisha.The Carlton rooftop – on top of theCarltonHotel, this cheap and cheerful bar often hasblaring Oriental music.The Greek Club – another cheap option,with an art deco interior and a charmingcourtyard that’s great in the summer. Alsoserves some food.El Mojito Skylounge – funky bar on topof theNile Hotel, great for cocktail sun-downers.

Good Zamalek options:La Bodega – a swanky restaurant, loungeand bar.L’Aubergine – part restaurant, part bar, verypopular with the younger cool kids, andabsolutely rammed when there’s footballon.Deals – cosy and welcoming expat hauntthat also does good food.Pour Vous – simple rooftop with stunningviews; also serves shisha, and food isavailable, but don’t expect much of theservice.Pub 28 – crowded and with decent food,though not always that welcoming.Harry’s Pub – extortionate British style pubin theCairo Marriott Hotel.Sequoia – more of a restaurant than a bar,but a great place to sip beers and smokeshisha while watching the Nile drift past.

Maadi:The Red Onion – good restaurant-cum-bar,popular with expats.Boss Bar – a great spot for karaoke;sometimes has live music.Pub 55 – trendy bar with good food andeven better service.

Honourable mentions:Bull’s Eye Pub in Mohandiseen is a Britishstyle pub with adartboard. Serves food, andhosts karaoke and live music.Nomad Bar is a rooftop bar on theKingHotel in Dokki. It’s nicely decked out,and serves beer and shisha. The food ismediocre, though, and it’s sometimes over-run with tour groups.Hard Rock Café – come on, you knew theremust be one! It’s in theGrand Hyatt Hotel,so you can munch on chicken wings anddown beers whilst watching the Nile floatby.

Clubs and live music

There aren’t that many decentclubsin Cairo, but a handful of swish club/bar/lounge type places are starting tospring up.Stiletto(opposite theCairoSheraton),Tamarai(in the Nile CityTowers next to the Conrad Hotel)andPurple(Zamalek) are all super-posh,super-expensive and great for posing, ifthat’s what floats your boat! As well as DJ’s,they will sometimes have live acts.

Many of thebig hotels also have clubs, aswell ascasinos.Latex, in theNile Hotel, isconsidered to be one of the best, though itcan be a bit of a meat market. Note that allthese venues haveentrance fees anddresscodes, and will be reluctant to let in groupsofsingle men.

By far and away one of the best andmostdown-to-earth nightspots in Cairo istheCairo Jazz Club. There islive music(orsometimes a DJ) every night of the week,and despite the name, they play all sorts ofmusic, from Latin to Funk to Rock. For themost part it’s quite a young crowd. Best ofall, entry isfree!

After Eight inDowntown is another bar thatoften haslive music. It does OK food, butgets extremely smoky and crowded. Also,theSwiss Club in Imbaba puts on a populardance party everyThursday evening – amixture of RnB, Reggae and other Africanbeats.


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The other place that hosts tons of livemusic isal-Sawy Cultural Centre inZamalek.This is the place to go to listen toclassicaland contemporary Arabic music, thoughthey also host a whole range of othergenres, and occasionally even internationalacts. Unusually for Cairo, the whole centreisno smoking, andno alcohol is allowed.

Another good option fortraditional livemusic isMakan, near Saad Zaghloul MetroStation, just south ofDowntown. Makanspecialises in performances of endangeredreligion-and-folk-inspired music from Africa.

Finally, themost charming venue for livemusic in Cairo isal-Genaina Theatre inal-Azhar Park. This is a modern outdoortheatre built to resemble a Roman-styletheatre. They have a diverse range ofperformances byinnovative local andinternational artists, many of which blendmodern and traditional sounds. Concertsare eitherfree or very cheap, and you mustalso pay the small fee to enter the parkitself.

Cafes

Many Egyptians’ idea of a night out isto head to thelocal café to hook up withfriends,smoke shisha, and perhaps playsomegames. The café, or ahwa, has beenthe lynchpin of Egyptian social life forcenturies. There are simple local cafes allover the place. They all serve tea, coffeeand some juices, as well as shisha pipes.

Shisha pipes are the Egyptian waterpipes, known elsewhere as hookahpipes, nargilahs, or hubbly bubbly’s.You smoke a special type of verymoisttobacco mixed with molasses, which canbe eitherflavoured or unflavoured. Flavourstend to be fruit. Apple is the best, thoughcantaloupe, peach and cherry are alsogood. Unflavoured tobacco, or maasel, willblow your head off if you aren’t used to it.

Whilst there are raging debates about therelative health effects of shisha versuscigarettes, the two experiences are entirelydissimilar. Smoking a shisha ispleasantlymellowing, with sweet-smelling smokeand a lulling bubbling sound as the smokepasses through the water. It’s well worthtrying a puff, though it’s important to realisethat you are smoking, so by definition it’snot good for you!

Posher, more westernised cafes will usuallyserve food as well as a wider range of

drinks. Both types of café will often havetraditional games such asbackgammonordominoes. Cards is less common. Themore westernised cafes will sometimeseven have games such as Monopoly orRisk!

This might sound pretty tame compared toyour average night out in London, butdon’tknock it till you’ve tried it! The cafes areoften lively, even raucous places, full ofhappy chatter and laughter. You won’t wakeup with a hangover the next day, and youwill certainly remember the whole of theevening!

There are local style coffee shopsliterally everywhere. The mostfamous of all isal-Fishawi, inKhan al-Khalili. The more modern, expensiveones tend to be concentratedaroundMohandiseen,Zamalek,DokkiandHeliopolis.Momento, in Dokki, isparticularly lively, and has loads of games.

Film, theatre, dance and other culture

There are plenty ofcinemas in Cairoshowing bothArabic and foreign films.The best cinemas for foreign films arethe ones inCity Stars, theGalaxy Cinemaon Manyal Island,Renaissance Cinemain Maspero(just north ofDowntown),andFamily Land in Maadi. These arealso the cinemas that are most likelytosubtitle Arabic films in English. Note thatfilm showings in Cairo run late, the lastone usually starting at – or even after –midnight!

Cultural centres such as theItalian CulturalCentre and theFrench Cultural Centre willoften showindependent films, and Cairoplays host to theCairo International FilmFestival towards the end of each year.

TheCairo Opera House is the centreof the arts in Cairo. As well asregularmusic concerts of all sorts, it also hasvarious sorts oftheatre,opera anddanceperformances, and it’s well worth droppingin to find out what they have going on.

EveryWednesday andSaturdayatWikalet al-Ghouri is afree Sufi dancingperformance. Although undoubtedly ashow, this is one of the most authenticperformances you are likely to see here,and is a fascinating blend of riotous coloursand hypnotic melodies. The performancebegins at8.30 pm, but arrive early to ensureyou get a seat.

A number of hotels, bars and boatshavebelly dancing performances. Manyof these are either incredibly tacky, orexceedingly seedy. The best ones tendto be at theposh hotels, and cost an armand a leg to watch. If you can stand thecheese factor, boats such asScarabee rundailydinner cruises where an exorbitantentrance fee buys you anopen buffet,along with a variety of dancers – usuallyaSufi dancer,belly dancer and some othertraditionalfolkloric dancing.

Alternatively, theShahrazad nightclub hasregularbelly dancing performances. Whilststill on the sleazy side, it’s certainly nottouristy, and women are present in thecrowd. The venue is excellent – one ofCairo’sold cabaret clubs that has beenrefurbished, and harks back to thegoldendays of the swinging Cairo nightlife scene.© NileGuide

Things to Do InsightsEgypt is arguably theoldest touristdestination on earth, and Cairo so rammedfull of amazing sights that it’s difficult toknow where to begin. Actually, that’s nottrue! But where do you go after you’ve seenthePyramids? Well, no matter yourinterestsor your budget, there’s plenty of choice.

It’s easiest to break the sights down byhistorical period, but first, a few words ofadvice. As far as possible, you want totry toavoid the worst of the sun and thecrowds. The best time to visit most ofthe sights is when they first open in themorning. That way you should get therebefore the hoards of tour buses descend,and the sun isn’t so fierce.

If this isn’t possible, then late afternoon isan alternative, although you’ll still run intothe crowds. If possible, save indoor sightssuch as the museums for the hottest part ofthe day. The exception here is the EgyptianMuseum: it’s likely to be crowded wheneveryou go, but the longer you leave it, theworse it usually gets. Also, thebazaars arebest visited late afternoon into the evening,since this is when they tend to be at theirliveliest

Generally speaking, the best way togetaround Cairo is bytaxi. If you are planningon doing a lot of sightseeing, then considerhiring a driver for the day. Your hotel will be


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able to help you with this – for a price – oryou can take your chances on the street.

Guides, both official and unofficial, will behanging around all the main sights, thoughyou can’t be sure how good they are inadvance, and haggling over the fee can bea chore. If you are dead set that you want aguide, it’s probably best to ask your hotel torecommend one.

Pharaonic sights

Seeing thePyramids of Giza is, for many,a childhood dream come true. Don’t letthe rubbish or the touts throw you off,these 4,500 year-old monuments reallyare asimposing,majestic andmysteriousas people say. To properly appreciate thesheer scale of their presence,take a goodwalk around the site. Better yet, approachfrom theSphinx end if you can.(You’ll haveto nip around the enclosure.)

If you get there early enough, you mightbe able toenter theGreat Pyramid, anddecide for yourself what the controversialGrand Gallery really is. If the ticketshave already gone, don’t despair. Goinginside thePyramid of Chephren is anexperience in itself, though not for theclaustrophobic! ThePyramid of Mycerinus,whilst significantly smaller than the othertwo, is still huge. Faced full on, it has analmost menacing quality.

Don’t forget to enter theSolar BoatMuseum, before heading down to seetheSphinx. This human-headed lion, cutfrom living rock, is still the subject of muchcontroversy. Conventionally believedto have been built by Chephren in the4th Dynasty, there is also evidence thatsuggests it is much older than that.

The other main Pharaonic site in CairoisSaqqara, home to theStep Pyramid.Whilst not as viscerally impressive as theGiza Pyramids, in some ways this one ismore significant: it was probably thefirstlarge stone structure in the world, prototypeof the pyramids to follow. Saqqara also haslots oftombs that are worth visiting, so makesure you allow plenty of time to wanderaround. One of the best is theMastaba of Ti.Also, don’t miss themuseum at the visitorscentre!

Memphis, the ancient Egyptian capital, isnear to Saqqara, and easy to visit at thesame time. Sadly,hardly anything remainsto hint at the lost splendours, but it’s stillworth it for ardentPharaoh-philes!

Dahshur is the site of the first true(smooth-sided) pyramids ever built. Nowherenear so awe-inspiring as the Pyramids ofGiza, they are still impressive. The sitereceives far fewer visitors than Giza, so thewholeexperience is a bit more chilled. It’salso possible to go inside the Red Pyramid.

Finally – theEgyptian Museum! A treasuretrove of ancient wonders, but badly set outand barely labelled. This is definitely a sitewherevisitors benefit from guides. Howeveryou choose to visit, make sure you see thestern Old Kingdom statues on the first floor,including thediorite statue of Chephren, aswell as the bizarreAmarna art of the hereticpharaoh Akhenaten.

There’s also the small matter ofthetreasures of Tutankhamen on the firstfloor, including the iconicgolden deathmask! And if you don’t fancy paying extra tosee theroyal mummies, then take a wanderthrough theanimal mummies section –the mummified monkey is particularlydisturbing!

Coptic sights

Coptic Cairo is one of the quaintestandmost serene spots in Cairo. TheCopticMuseum(opposite Mar Girgis Metro station)is modern and well laid out, a fascinatingtour through the evolution of Christianityin Egypt. As well as the museum, thereare numerousreligious sights in the area,including the famedHanging Church withits suspended nave, the roundCathedral ofSt George, and theChurch of St Sergius,believed to be on the site at which the HolyFamily took shelter. But it’s not just aboutChristianity – both theoldest mosque andtheoldest synagogue in Cairo are also here.

Islamic sights

From a visitor’s point of view, the endearingbedlam ofKhan al-Khalili is the epicentreofIslamic Cairo, and a good base fromwhich to explore the sights. You canheadnorth towardsBab al-Futuh and seethe wonderfully restoredmosques of Muizzli-Din Allah, including theMoonlit Mosqueandal-Hakim Mosque, as well as theexquisiteBeit al-Souhaymi.

South leads pastal-Azhar mosque andtheMosque-Madrassa of al-GhouritowardsBab Zwayla andal-Mu’ayyadMosque. From here you can continuesouthtowards theStreet of the Tentmakers, orheadeast down Darb al-Ahmar. This takes

you pastal-Maridani Mosque and theBlueMosque towards theCitadel.

The Citadel is athree-for-one deal onmosques, showcasing a simpleMamlukmosque, a charmingOttoman mosque(thefirst ever built in Cairo) and of course theiconicMosque of Mohammed Ali. As well asa fewmuseums, the Citadel offers some ofthebest views out over the city.

Close by areSultan Hassan Mosque andal-Refa’i Mosque – appearing similar from theoutside, they are as different as chalk andcheese inside.Ibn Tulun Mosque, with itscrazy Babylonian minaret, is a short walkaway.

Markets, Museums and Galleries

As well as theKhan and theStreet of theTentmakers, Cairo is full ofcolourful marketsthat are well worth nosing around. Threeof the most accessible for visitors areal-Muski, west of Khan al-Khalili;Ataba, awhole series of interlinked markets at theend of al-Muski; andal-Ezbekiya usedbook market, also in Ataba. Others worthmentioning are theFriday Market, andtheCamel Market north of Cairo.

Museums abound in Cairo, from thedignifiedIslamic Art Museum, to theeclecticGayer Anderson Museum, tothe quirkyAgricultural Museum and thebizarreManyal Palace Hunting Museum.Ifcontemporary art is more your thing,theMuseum of Modern Islamic Art is in thegrounds of theCairo Opera House, andtheMahmoud Mukhtar Sculpture Museumis just a stone’s throw away. If you dowander into this area, take the chance toclimb theCairo Tower, for some of the mostspectacular views of Cairo.

There are also numerous contemporaryartgalleries. Two of the most famous and wellrespected areDowntown – theTownhouseGallery andMashrabia Gallery.Darb 1718 isanother very progressive gallery and artscentre inOld Cairo.

The great outdoors

Being thelargest city in Africa and theMiddle East, Cairo isn’t known for itsoutdoor activities! However, you don’t get a“greater” outdoors than thevast expanse ofthe desert. Taking acamel orhorse ride intothe desert is an experience that will staywith you forever, especially if you ride intothe desert near thePyramids at sunset time.


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Alternatively, hop on afelucca andchillaxa while on thelongest river in the world.The ride down inMaadi is particularly good,since you are away from the pollution of thetown centre, and there aren’t any bridgesto get in the way. If you can't escape thecentre of Cairo, but still want a bit ofpeaceand quiet, head over toal-Azhar Park,Cairo's biggest and best green space.

Finally, if you are at all interestedinsustainable technologies,environmentalissues orurban planning, make sure to goon theSolar Cities Urban Eco Tour. You willsee how some of the poorest communities,in one the most crowded and polluted citieson earth, are usinggreen technology toimprove their lives.

© NileGuide

Travel TipsGetting There By AirCairo International Airport(+202 22655000/ +202 2265 2222/http://www.cairo-airport.com) is the busiest in the MiddleEast, and plans and development ofnew terminals are assuring its capabilityof handling air traffic from all over theworld.Major carriers include:

Air Canada(+1 888 247 2262/http://www.aircanada.com)

Air France(+1 800 237 2747/http://www.airfrance.com)

British Airways( +1 800 247 9297/http://www.british-airways.com)

Iberia(+902 400 500/http://www.iberia.com)

Japanese Airlines( +1 800 525 3663/http://www.ar.jal.com/en/)

Swiss(+1 877 359 7947/http://www.swiss.com/web/EN/Pages/index.aspx)

United Airlines(+1 800 241 6522/http://www.ual.com)

There are currentlytwo internationalterminals in the airport, and a third forinternal flights. A shuttle bus goes aroundthe airport linking the terminals, but is notalways reliable. There are plans to build anew"Automated People Mover." There areplenty of taxis that can ferry you around.

To get into town, you can pre-book a placeon the air-conditionedCairo Airport ShuttleBus, or pick up a ricketylocal bus from

Terminal 1. There are plans to extend theMetro line all the way to the airport.

For most people, the easiest way to get toCairo from the airport is totake a cab. Youcan pick up a fixed price service from insidethe terminals, or take your chances with thecabs hanging around outside. A fair price toget to the centre of town is around 40- 60LE, depending on time of day and whereexactly you want to go.

Car rental companies are located rightoutside the airport and include:

Avis(+1 800 831 2847/http://www.avis.com)

Budget( +1 800 527 0700/http://www.budget.com)

Europcar( +33 0825 825 490/http://www.europcar.com)

Hertz( +1 800 654 3131/http://www.hertz.com)

Thrifty( http://www.thrifty.com onlinereservations only)

Short-term car parking is available for about1,000 cars and is located within walkingdistance of the terminal buildings.

Getting There OverlandIt's possible to cross into Egypt overlandfromIsrael viaTaba, and there aresomebuses that run directly betweenJerusalem, Tel Aviv and Cairo- seehttp://www.mazada.co.ilYou can also come fromJordan ontheAqaba-Nuweiba ferry, though it's a timeconsuming and chaotic procedure.Once inEgypt, there is an extensivelocalbus network that links to Cairo, though beprepared for long, rather uncomfortablerides.

Transport Around CairoDriving around Cairo is a nightmare, andit's not recommended you hire a car unlessyou are used to driving on such crowded,chaotic and unpredictable streets.

The easiest way to get around is by cab.They are all over the place at all times,and it's perfectly safe to flag one downanywhere, at any time of day or night. Theblack cabsdon't have a meter, so it's best toagree a fare with the driver before you evenget in. Many of them are rapacious vultures,so if you don't get a fair quote, just wait twoseconds for the next cab to come along.

Some of the cars seem to be older thanthePyramids, held together only by bits ofwire and the will of God. Others are brandspanking new white cabs, which are air-conditioned, and even have functioningmeters! There are also a few yellow cabs,designed specifically for tourists. They alsohave air-conditioning and meters, and canbe booked in advance on 02 2792 1761. Either way, be prepared for the ride of yourlife: the only thing crazier than Cairo traffic,is Cairo driving!

Note that your hotel will always be able tosort you out with a cab, but it will usuallycost you a lot more than if you flag a cardown on the street.

Cairo also has a modern, efficient andvery cheap Metrosystem of undergroundtrains. They are well signposted in English,and run regularly, but unfortunately don'tcover that much of the city yet.(There areplans...!) Some useful stops include Sadat,forDowntownand the Egyptian Museum;Ataba, which is a short walk fromIslamicCairo; Giza, to get you that little bit closer tothe Pyramids; and Mar Girgis, forOld Cairo.

There are also public busesand servicetaxisrunning various routes throughoutCairo, for if you are feeling adventurous.The routes are numbered, so you need toknow which number you need, although theservice taxis will call out their destination asthey drive along.

There are also a few ferriesthat cross theNile at certain points of the river, such asfrom the north tip ofZamalekto Imbaba.© NileGuide

Fun FactsCairo Country: Egypt

Cairo by the Numbers:

Population: Estimated at around 22 millionin Greater Cairo

Average Winter Temperature: 0 °C/ 32 °F

Average Summer Temperature: 37 °C/ 99°F


35

Most Precipitation: 25 mm/ 1 in

Land Area: 555 square km/ 214.2 squaremi

Number of cars on streets: Over 2 million

Quick Facts:

Currency: Egyptian Pound(LE, or EGP)

Electricity: 220 volts, 50 Hz; standard two-pin plug

Time Zone: GMT+ 2

Country Dialing Code:+20

Area Code: 02(drop the 0 if calling fromabroad)

Did You Know?

Cairo is Africa's largest and most heavilypopulated city, and considered the culturalcentre of the Arab world.

Cairo is known in Arabic as Al-Qahirah,“The Victorious”, “The Triumphant”, or “TheConqueror”.

Cairo is also known as Umm al-Dounia,“The Mother of the World”, and as The Cityof 1000 Minarets.

The longest river in the world flows throughCairo.

Cairo is home to the only remaining AncientWonder of the World.

Sunday is the first day of the week in Egypt.

Nobel Prize winning author NaguibMahfouz was born in Cairo.© NileGuide

Weather

Statistics Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Temperature C

Average High 19 20 23 28 32 34 35 34 33 30 25 20

Average Mean 14 15 17 21 25 27 29 28 27 24 20 15

Average Low 10 10 12 15 18 21 23 23 21 19 15 11

Temperature F

Average High 66 68 73 82 89 94 94 94 91 85 76 68

Average Mean 57 59 63 71 77 82 83 83 81 75 67 60

Average Low 49 50 54 60 65 70 73 73 71 66 58 52

Rainy Days 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0

Rain Fall (cm) 0.4 0.3 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.4

Rain Fall (in) 0.2 0.1 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.2

© NileGuide

Download - Pharaonic Cairo - Explore the Monuments of Ancient Egypt

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