Andsewitis.net

Bra-making Class, Bra Size, by Pauline from Australia

Start

Class 1:

Part 1

Class 2: Part 1

Class 3: Part 1

Find

Your Size

Using a

Part 2

Fitting Part 2

Copying one

Part 2

Pattern List

pattern Part 3

adjustments Part 3

that fits Part 3

Supplies Part

4

Part

4 Contact the

instructor

Part 4

Powernet Part 5

Part 5

Examples

Now if you are not sure about something, please ask. If you don't want to ask because you think it's too dumb, then Contact the instructor. The only dumb question is the one you don't ask!!! I can also post pictures of any notions you are

not sure about.

This page will get you started. Print this out and keep it somewhere so you've got any easy reference!

Firstly, BEFORE you buy the pattern, make sure you have had your measurements

taken correctly. Most of you won't be the size you think you are!!!

Measurement Instructions:

Now about these measurements, you need 3, and you must have someone else do it. The reason someone else needs to do it is when you bring your arms up to take

the measurement it alters the measurement, but these need to be accurate for a good fit.

Also, use our handy MS/Excel spreadsheet: BraSizeFinder (right-click the link, and

select "Save File As" to download it for your use). Enter your measurements into this spreadsheet, and your size will be calculated based on these measurements. If

your computer will not process this spreadsheet correctly, the rest of this page tells you how to compute your size.

Put your best-fitting bra on and adjust so your boobs aren't sitting down on your

waist or under your chin!!!!

1. Keep tape parallel to floor around your back. Measure the under bust, snugly and no "bit extra" and do not pull it too tight .Write it down. Enter this number as

"under" in the chart.

2. Full bust is measured same as above, around the fullest part of the bust. Enter this number as "around" in the chart.

3. Upper bust is where the breast starts to come out from the ribs in a gentle slope.

Enter this number as "over" in the chart.

Got it all. This is how we work out our size. You may or may not be the bra size you are wearing. 80% of women wear the wrong size. Most of you'll just prove

this!!!!LOL

Band size - add 4" to your underbust measurement to give what size band you'll be wearing. e.g., if you measure 36" add 4"= 40". If you measure an odd number or a fraction go up to the nearest WHOLE, EVEN number. eg.: if you measure 33 1/2",

add 4"= 37 1/2", then round UP to 38". The 4" is for ease, otherwise you'd think you were in a vise!!! I know most of you feel that way now.

Subtract your upper bust from the full bust to give cup size. Every 1" of difference

represents a cup size. If you are less than 1'', it becomes AA cup. eg FB 42''- UB 38''=4'' difference. Makes it A,B,C,D- the D's have it-Should be easy enough! Just

keep going down the alphabet for cup size if you are more than 4" difference.

1 inch

difference A cup

2 inches

difference B cup

3 inches difference

C cup

4 inches difference

D cup

5 inches

difference E cup

Pattern Sizes

The patterns that will be the easiest to work from are Kwik-Sew 1017 for smaller

sizes and 1018 for mid range sizes. These two patterns are exactly the same but only contain a range of sizes. Then for our more womanly gals, Kwik-Sew 2374, which is slightly different, but I think I can manage the slight variations in the one

class. Now, I'm sorry if you are out of these size ranges, BUT I suggest you make a bra for someone else to get the gist of how to do it and then we'll work on resizing.

I can't do that as well for this class. This is supposed to be basic bra making, but that is more advanced stuff and much more individualized (see classes 2 and 3). These patterns are all what is known as a "framed bra" and are without an

underwire. Kwik-Sew 2374 could have a wire put in it if you like.

Pattern List

This is a list of what I've found to be available as of 02/09/08.

Booby Traps

Nbr Sizes Description

B002 8-14 A-C unstructure with wires

B003

10-16 A-DD, 16 A-DD, 18-20

B-DD, 22-26 C-E

structured with optional wires

Elan

Nbr Sizes Description

510 32A-40DD

front closing partial band demi-bra

511 32A-40DD

back closing partial band demi-bra

520 42B-

48FF back closing full band bra

530 32A-

40DD back closing partial band bra with full coverage

540 32A-40C

front closing padded push-up, partial band bra

645 32A-42DD

back closing full band style with optional wires

Ezi-Sew

Nbr Sizes Description

101 32A-40D

full band bra with optional wires

102 42B-8DD

front cross-over bra

103 32A-8D partial band bra

104 32A -

40D front cross-over bra

105 32A-36D,

38A-C

uplift bra with pad inserts

107 44C-

48F full band soft cup bra

108 42C-48F

maternity bra

Jalie

Bust 21"-50"

Nbr Sizes Description

2563 sport bra

2564 pull-on bra

KwikSew

Nbr Sizes Description

1017 32AA-34D no wire

1018 36A-40DD no wire

2101 32A-38C partial band bra

2358 Sx-L merrywidow and similar bodysuit

2374 42C-46DDD

no wire

2477 XS-XL high-neck pull-on sports bra (OOP)

2489 32A-38C full band demi-bra

3166 XS-XL bustier

3167 XS-L pull-on body-hugging camisole

3300

32-36 A-

D, 38 B-DD

vertical seam bra

3301 XS-XL pull-on bra

3594 32AA-40DDD

back closing full band bra

PinUpGirls

Nbr Sizes Description

1225 30AA-

30A full band bra

1230 30A-38D

full band bra

1235 30E-38H

full band bra

1240 40A-48D

full band bra

1245 40E-

48H full band bra

Lingerie Secrets

Bust 32"-53"

Nbr Sizes Description

S-XL4

Crossover sport bra

S-XL4

"T" sport bra

S-

XL4 Front closing sports bra, cups A/B/C/D

S-

XL4 Shelf bra camisole

Supplies

Check the pattern envelope for actual requirements of fabrics and supplies, but it's

the sort of thing you can pick up odd bits for, or create a whole new stash!!!

Bonding media

You will need iron-on web with paper backing, known as visoflex or Wonder-Under or Stitch

Witchery, to bond pieces together. You need this to fuse the stabilizer to the back of the bra

center piece. If you are going to use a lace overlay there, you should bond the lace to the

fabric you are using.

Stabilizer

You will need a fusible knit fabric, such as Fusi-Knit, to stabilize the front "T" piece, but you

won't need much. Woven fusible fabrics will also work, and would need to be cut on the

bias, but knits are easier to work with.

Elastics

You need good quality plush elastic here. Plush elastic has one side like normal elastic, and

the other side is soft and fuzzy. Also, plush elastic has one straight edge and one scalloped

edge. If it's available, you might be able to buy your elastic to the match fabric, or to

contrast if you like. Elastic widths needed are 1cm (3/8") and 1.5cm (5/8") for the

small/medium sizes, or 1.3cm (1/2") and 1cm (3/8") for the fuller cups.

Bra strap elastic

A class all in itself, this comes in all sorts of finishes. My suggestions are that only if you are

an A cup should you get narrow width. The more weight you need to support, the wider it

should be and less stretchy. You can not substitute any other type of elastic for straps. You

must use bra strap elastic for the bra straps.

Rings and sliders

Two rings and two sliders, which should fit the width of the elastic you use for the straps.

Underwire Casing

I always use underwire casing even when I don't use wires. This gives the bra more support

and better definition. I also use it to put boning in the side seam (optional), but it helps the

breast to stay forward. I also cover the side seam with underwire casing.

Polyester thread

You need a good quality thread to match.

Underwires to fit

Only Kwik-Sew 2374 calls for them, if you want to use them.

Sewing machine

You must be able to do at least a zigzag stitch. If you have a machine that does a 3-step

zigzag stitch, this is what is used in the industry.

Needles

Use ball-point or stretch needles to fit your machine.

Adornments

Small bow, flower, or diamante, to sew to the middle of the bra when you've finished!

Fabrics

Choices can include:

Satin Lycra Cotton Lycra Tricot, which is also used for slips and petticoats

Stretch or woven lace if you want for trim or to cover the cups. I only ever use soft feeling laces. They don't have to sit on the skin, can be an overlay. stretch or woven lace (), even some bridal laces work well

Cotton interlock to line the cups if you want Powernet if you want for the sides (comes in different weights, but not a

huge color choice, usually)

Powernet

Now if you are not sure about something, please ask. If you don't want to ask because you think it's too dumb, then Contact the instructor. The only dumb

question is the one you don't ask!!! I can also post pictures of any notions you are not sure about.

Powernet is the support in a bra. Contrary to popular belief it’s not the straps that

support your breasts, it’s the bra band, the piece that goes around you. This page discusses Powernet as it is used in the bra band.

Powernet comes in weights from quite light to really heavy duty, so heavy duty that it can be difficult to even stretch it. The weight of the powernet used depends on

how much weight you are trying to support and what your undergarment is designed for. Remember that Powernet is used in girdles and form fitting

undergarments.

If you are lucky and don’t have to support a lot of weight in your bra, then you can use satin lycra, cotton lycra, or any of the lightweight powernets. When you have much to support, for extra support and longer bra life, use two layers of light

weight fabric, or use one or two layers of a medium weight powernet.

On bras for very well endowed ladies, I always use either the heavy powernet or heavier lycra, which I sometimes double for even more support.

On merry widows where some figure control is wanted, I use a medium weight to heavy weight powernet in the back and center panel, and prettier fabrics on the

sides. When they want all round figure control, I use Powernet on the sides. Powernet can also be made into ladies’ briefs (knickers) as front or side panels or

the back for control briefs. These can also be layered for more control.

I think it’s a good idea to go looking in lingerie shops. Don’t just look at your own size, but smaller and larger sizes as well. Feel the weights and see how they have

combined fabrics to make the garments functional and feminine at the same time, especially in larger sizes. Looking and observing - and writing some covert notes - will give you a better understanding of the functions of these fabrics and how to

apply this knowledge for better garment making in the future.

Please read the instructions with the pattern and print out and read mine BEFORE you start!!!

Tracing Pattern

Trace out pattern pieces to whatever you like to use. Mark stretch and grain line directions and notches. There are only 4 basic pieces to the pattern.

I don't use the cup binding in the pattern. Instead I use the underwire channeling (casing), as I find it sits on the body better. I also do not use the bra strap pattern,

as I prefer an elastic strap.

When you lay out your pattern pieces, use the instructions with the pattern, but make sure you have the stretch and grain lines going the right way. I'm doing mine

in a cotton Lycra, so will put a stabilizer fabric (sheer nylon) into the center T piece and lower cups, as the fabric offers little support and my boobs would end up on

my waist and under my arms! If you want to line the cups or T piece, cut out lining fabric at the same time as the bra fabric by laying the pieces together, wrong sides together and stitch on the edge, then treat as one piece. Same goes for lace and

sheer. If you want to pad the lower cup, sandwich the padding between fabric and lining, and edge stitch to hold the layers together. The alternatives are endless.

Laying Out Pattern

If you are not using power net for the T piece, you need to stabilize it if the fabric is very stretchy. Use your iron-on webbing and lining, and fuse the layers together. This can be done with the cup linings as well.

I use a fading marking pen to mark all my notches, but I wait to mark until just

before I'm going to use the piece!

Have a NEW STRETCH needle, a full bobbin of good quality thread. A ball-point needle will do, if you don't have the stretch on hand, but the stretch is better.

Following your instructions, pin cups wrong sides together, matching notches. You

will use 1/4" seams (6mm) throughout. Straight stitch together. I use length 2.5 on my machine and have used contrasting thread so you can see it more easily in

these examples.

Center Cup Seam

If you have one breast larger than the other, this is the time you can do a rough check on the cups. Place stitched cup over the breast and tape in place, hold the breast in position, pinch out excess, and pin very carefully. Re-stitch the seam. Do

this before topstitching!

Use a triple zigzag or serpentine stitch to sew the cup seams, as per instruction sheet. I use triple zigzag with a setting of W 7.0 L 1.5. Trim this seam.

Sew cups into T piece, per instructions, then sew center fronts together. Now topstitch just the center front.

The picture shows T piece with triple zigzag also scissors I use to cut lace trim- a worthwhile investment if you plan to do a lot of these!

If you're wondering about the picture, it was lost in cyber-space. We hope to find it soon or make a new one!

Now this is where I digress from the pattern instructions. I use underwire channeling (casing) to add support without putting in wires.

Fold right cup back so cup/frame seam is showing (like when you stitched it). Place the stitched edge of the casing to the stitching line of the cup, starting a little less than 1/4" (6mm) from the top of the cup but finishing right to end on the side seam part of the cup. Stitch using a straight stitch on the stitching line of the casing. Turn casing into bra and from the right side straight stitch around bra cup to catch the other side of the casing on the inside.

Casing To Bra Cups

Now, if using wires, pattern 2374, this is where you put them in and do a bar tack at each end of casing to stop wire from popping out! NO gaps here!

Your bra should look like this right side and inside out! Go have a coffee or G & T. You've done well!

Topstitching Casing

Inside with Casing

Nearly home now!

Sew side seams (step 5 on pattern instruction sheet). I put the underwire casing over this seam as well, finishing the casing just under 1/4" from each end. Now, if

you like, you can put some light boning in here for some support, which helps when there are wires and when you want to stop the bra from rolling up!

TIP: put scotch tape (cellotape) on the end of the boning to help it slide through,

and cut it to a rounded end.

For 2374, follow pattern instructions for placement of shoulder straps.

If your bra straps tend to fall off the shoulder all the time, take the placement more to the midline. This stops them from falling down!

Do elastic as per steps 6 and 7 on pattern instruction sheet.

I mark the center of my elastic to CF seam to give even placement of elastic on

each side. Make sure wires are out of the way when stitching over the casing (ask

me how I know this!). Use a zigzag W 1.5 L 2.0 for first stitching, then triple zigzag for the 2nd stitching.

I put most of my "stretch " through the under arm section so it sits snugly.

On a shaped strap, the strap is attached BEFORE the elastics as the elastics extend up and onto the straps. To attach these to look professional, place RIGHT side of strap to WRONG side of cup, straight stitch in place with a .5cm (between 1/8” and

¼”) seam, then lay the strap out flat, and sew across from the right side- the raw edge of the strap end will be enclosed. Then apply the elastics in one continuous

seam from cup to end of strap -usually there is a nice lace edge on one side of the strap. But if you want elastic on both sides, that’s OK.

For step 8 on pattern instruction sheet, I sew a ring here and bar tack it in place (2 rows of little straight stitches and very tiny zigzag stitches over the top).

Checking Tape Width

Step 10 on pattern instruction sheet I do before step 9. I follow instruction sheet for bottom elastic. Mark center of elastic and match to CF seam. I cut about 1/2''

off either end to give elastic a bit more give, which I find helps it sit neater.

Then I do step 9 per pattern instruction sheet, but a little differently: I like all elastic straps on this pattern so I cut 2 pieces of bra strap elastic 50cm long (about

19.5''). You'll need to adjust up or down to your personal measurement and preferences.

Now do as pattern says, but before you stitch it on, check that it matches your bra

back width (step 11 on sheet). You don't want a 2-1/2-hook closure. In the above picture, you can see that I need to move strap elastic to the left for a perfect 2 hook closure or out (to the right) if I want a 3-hook closure.

Pin strap elastic in place and stitch. I do a reverse stitch here on the top of the

elastic, as it's the only place where something is not sewn over it or topstitched.

Finished Back

For Step 11, apply bra back per instructions. I attach with a straight stitch first, to hold it onto the bra back, then zigzag all the way around.

I use a zipper foot to attach the hook tape, and I move the needle position to one

side. Then I zigzag around the tape. I find the regular foot is too awkward to handle this task.

Now we're nearly finished, but the next step is the trickiest part of all - putting

elastic through slide and ring to make it adjustable.

Elastic Through Slider/Ring - 5 Pictures Going Through Process

Thread strap elastic through one side of the slide and down the other (Step 1), then thread through the ring on the bra from FRONT to BACK and pull through (Step 2).

Step 1 Step 2

Take elastic up through slide (2 bits of elastic in same spot) the side where you went through first- but you're coming in from the other direction (Step 3), then

down the other side of the slide (Step 4).

Step 3 Step 4

Stitch the end to the back elastic (the bit that will sit on your skin). I sew a long bar tack here as well (Step 5). If you sew it to the front elastic it won't adjust. This is hard to explain, but if you look at the pictures and get a bra out, you can check out

how it's done!

Step 5

Last Step - sew on a tiny bow or tiny embellishment of your choice to CF seam. I like to use a diamante!

Finished Bra

All done! Pat yourself on the back! Now go wear it in comfort.

Bras are very hard to "fit" in the traditional manner as you can't really see where they need adjusting until they are together. The cups can be altered slightly before you topstitch and the bra strap position altered. Wear it and take note of where the

adjustments need to be made. Alter your pattern, and make another one. The next should be absolutely perfect, if the first one wasn't!

In this session I'm dealing with common fitting problems and how to fix them.

Annie e-mailed me and we are going to use her measurements for the beginning of the class. Annie's measurements are:

High bust

38

Under bust

33.5

Full

bust 43

With these measurements she should be a 38DD. This does not fit, and in fact is way too small. So I asked for some more measurements:

Edge of breast

around back 23.5

Same around front 13 - No, they don't add up

Fullness of breast about 11 in the best fitting bra

available

Depth of u shape 13 on RTW (not big enough), 14'' on what looks right

Now taking these measurements and a selection of patterns, I measured all the pattern pieces flat. I use a piece of string to go around the curves! I think Annie is

closer in cup measurements to a 42D.

One picture shows the front pinned to back pattern piece with the wire placed to see if it fits OK- the underwire measures about 14.5 - 14.75''

Tracing

Traced pattern

At this stage make up the 2 cup pieces and use tape to tape the cup over the breast to give an idea of whether it is going to fit. This is not 100% accurate, but it

does give an idea where to adjust.

The back may well be too large for Annie, so reduce back length by reducing width in the middle of the bra back.

Reducing back band

For Those Who Are Well Endowed

For more support, choose really heavy duty power net. It does come in different strengths. With lighter power net, use two layers, stitching together and treating as one piece. Make sure the stretch is going around the body in both pieces.

Use very wide 2'' (5cm) scalloped elastic on the band. When you turn it to the

inside, it will be too wide under the cups. No problem - stitch under the cups, forming a curve, then trim off the excess elastic. The underwire casing will sit over

the top of it and hide the cut edge.

Also adding seams into the lower cup helps. Slash lower cup pattern through in 2-3 places. Make sure you mark pattern pieces before doing this and notch to identify

what piece goes with what (ask me how I know this). Add a seam allowance and stitch them up, topstitching the seams.

Lower Support Seams (lower half of bra cup, shown upside-down)

Bonding a firm layer of interfacing into the lower cup also helps to give support. You will need to line your lower cups in most cases, but the pattern remains the same.

Extra uplift can also be added, on it's own or in conjunction with the above by

cutting an extra piece of interfacing and bonding along the side/base of the cup. You can change this shape to suit where you want push and uplift. The shaded area

in the picture shows the shape of the extra interfacing to be bonded in.

Shape of Extra Interfacing to be Bonded in (curved tracing) for extra support (shown upside-down)

You can buy a felt like piece that can be stitched in to give support as well, but not sure where you can purchase in the US. If we have them in Oz, you have to have

them there.

Like A Wider Strap?

Here is a bra strap I add to my bras. I like to use it for the larger cup sizes especially. It's very comfortable and easily adjusted to suit personal tastes. Mine is

2.5'' tapering to 1'' finished width - remember to allow seam allowance for elastic - and is 10'' long. If I need to add a little padding in the strap, I insert it in between

the outer fabric and the stabilizer or lining, stitching across the strap so it can't slide down. I wouldn't make it too much wider, but you can make it longer. The wide part should go over the top of the shoulder and onto the back piece.

You will need to slightly alter the upper cup pattern where the strap goes - cut it down slightly to take the extra width. The wider part of the strap is sewn to the top of the bra cup. Attach the ring to the narrow end of the strap,fold back end and

stitch down. Thread elastic through the ring, which has been attached to the back of the bra, and stitch down. The pictures show the wrong side (at left), then the

right side of the strap.

Wide Bra Strap - Wrong Side

Wide Bra Strap - Right Side

Is the "T" piece too small?

A reader asks:

I have a fitting question about bras. I can get the cup to fit, but the front band/centerpiece is too closely spaced for my shape, so I feel like everything is

being pulled to the front and squashed together. Is there something I can do for this?

It sounds like the T piece is too narrow for you. We all have different shapes, so a

pattern is not going to fit all women, just as one bra style does not suit all women. Here are some suggestions for you.

Try another pattern if you are using a commercial one, as the pattern may not be

right for your shape.

Do you have an old bra that fits comfortably, has the breasts sitting where they should be? Remember that the breasts do need to be forward, not under the arms at the sides. Measure the "T" piece in this bra, the width from cup to cup.

Take your T piece pattern piece & cut it up the center front, place the 2 pieces on your pattern drafting paper, with the measured distance apart & redraw your

pattern piece with the extra width added. It is not going to be a lot- 1/4" is a lot in bra making. You may have to try this a couple of times until you are happy with the

extra width in the front & your breasts sit where you are comfortable & they remain forward. Do not add so much that your breasts fall back to your sides. If you have bigger breasts the tendency is to bring them forward so they don't sag behind your

arm pits.

Whatever you added to the center front is going to have to come off the 2 back pieces. Halve whatever you added. If you added 1/4" then that is 1/8" & take that

out of the back pieces evenly- to do it correctly, cut the back pattern piece in half vertically trim the section out & redraw your pattern piece. If you take it from

where it joins the cup you may find that it does not fit together correctly as this end of the pattern piece is quite often shaped & you will be changing the shape by taking out the extra here.

If you do not have a bra that fits well, then make the same alterations on your

pattern pieces,remembering to add only very small amounts at a time.

Wait! Do you want to copy an old favorite? Go to the next session, Class 3, Part 1!

Making Patterns from Perfectly Fitting RTW Bras

For some of us, we have gone through the frustration of actually finding a RTW bra that is so comfortable, we'd swear it was made just for us, but when we go back to

buy another they have removed that model from the line!!!! You hang on to the old bra ""just in case"" Well, in this the last of the bra classes, we can fix that problem

by making a pattern from an old bra and being able to replicate it in colors/laces of our choice for evermore. Here is what so many of you have been waiting for. Firstly, I am assuming a prior knowledge of constructing a bra. If you haven't done

so already, then you'll need lesson one as well, but the construction may be a little different. I highly suggest you at least try to make one from scratch before starting

this task.

Here a young lady brought me a bra a lot worse for the wear. She's not overly large (A change for me), but she needed this style again as she has a ''funnel chest'' and

this is the only style that fits her and stays down (her breasts fall out the bottom of her cups because of her concave sternum). It is more difficult to get a really accurate pattern from an old worn out bra, but most of us don't like chopping up

new ones!

Ready-to-wear Bra

On your old bra, mark the grain lines with a permanent pen where the back of the

bra is sewn to the cups. Mark all the places where you will need to match up the pieces later on. These marks help you to reconstruct the bra, even if you don't make one for months after (as memory joggers).

With the underwires still in the bra (if it has them), trace the edges of the T piece

(front connector between the cups), curving around where it fits into the cup. When I did my bra the front piece was badly ripped, so I put it back together as best I

could. It is only a small block between the cups. Double-check this tracing, both before and after you cut it out, by holding it up to the original bra.

Now take the wires out, and cut carefully around the cup seam of one cup. We are

now going to use just this one cup, and we leave the other one intact. Cut along all the seams of the one cup. Be accurate here until you have one side of the bra in pieces. You will probably have an upper cup, a lower cup, a back/frame/T piece or a

little block that separates the cup.

Now clip through the elastic of the other half of the bra, to help it lie flat. Just cut to the edge of the elastic (my bra nearly fell apart at this stage!), and cut off the hook

and eye piece at the back as well. grain lines, match point for upper/lower cups/strap point on back, where front piece joins the cups. Put the fairly intact half of the bra into a ziploc bag, as you may need it later for reference.

Clipping Elastic Traced Back

Lay all the pieces out as flat as possible and trace around them, right on the edge, marking direction of stretch. All the markings you made on the bra should now be

on the pattern. Now add a seam allowance. I use a 1cm seam allowance when I do my own patterns, then trim it back. Just make sure you write down how much seam allowance you are making. In places edged with elastic, the seam allowance

should be the same as the width of the elastic. If you have 1'' wide elastic on the bottom of the bra, then add 1'' seam allowance across the bottom. If you have

narrow elastic across the top, then the width of the elastic is how much allowance you need to add. Go around all the pieces adding your allowances. The pattern pieces should look like this.

Traced Bra With Seam Allowances on All Pieces

Before you cut your bra out make sure the center cup seams will fit together, and that you have a notch point to match perfectly. Do a check on the pattern pieces. I

find the front piece is the one that usually needs equaling up, especially if it is an old bra.

Now cut out and make your bra, looking at how the RTW one was put together. If

you have previously made a bra, this will be easier to figure out than if you haven't. You should choose similar fabrics and have the stretch running in the same

direction. My gal wanted a smooth bra with no lace this time, so I cut the satin Lycra so it didn't stretch as much. Here's her finished bra:

Finished Bra

You can make a pattern from your favorite knickers/undies using the same technique. Hope you've enjoyed the bra classes!

Bra-making questions Answered Here.

Pam asks: I am trying to copy two bras with front close and a light fiberfill lining.

Most parts I have figured out, but I have two questions:

Question 1: How do I attach elastic to the fabric?

Answer 1: Elastic is sewn on with a wide triple zigzag. I widen mine to width of elastic or as wide as it will go on really wide elastic and drop the stitch length a

little so it gives a good stretch. Test to see what works best. To put on elastic, you align the straight edge of the elastic to the cut edge of the bra on the ride side. The

scallops of the elastic are into the body of the bra, and the flock (soft) side of the elastic is uppermost. Using a small zigzag, stitch elastic close to the scalloped edge

but don't stitch over the scallops (about 1x1 zigzag). Turn the elastic to wrong side of bra, with the scallops showing along the turned edge of bra. From the WRONG side of bra, using triple zigzag, stitch elastic down making sure stitching goes to

straight edge of elastic, If elastic is really wide, you only ever stitch to the left hand side as the width of the stitch can't be made wide enough. Your elastic appears to

be fairly narrow.

The bra shown in this picture appears to have the extra layer inside for support across the bottom, as discussed in Class 2 Part 3.

Question 2: How do I sew these two seams?

Answer 2: Seam A is flatlocked on a serger, so if you do not have one of these, put a seam allowance on the pattern where this seam is. This will be done the same as

seam B, but it won't be as flat or as smooth as on the RTW bra.

If you have a serger, set your machine for a 2- or 3-thread flatlock. Use woolly nylon, and serge the seams together with a short, narrow stitch. Pull apart so seam

sits flat.

For seam B, place right sides together, and seam with a straight stitch, taking the allowance you used for in pattern. This seam gets folded to the BACK or AWAY from

the cups. Now we have the choice of a couple of ways to do the next step. In either case, you do not have to fold the edge under or finish the edges off as the fabric does not fray.

If I'm adding boning to the side here (some bras have a light plastic strip in here

for support) I leave both seam allowances the same width and sew down, from the right side, the distance from the needle to the edge of the presser foot from the

seam line. Turn and trim. Insert boning.

If boning will not be used, trim the under seam to 1/8", fold the top seam over it to reduce the bulk, and stitch as described before.

More bra-making questions Answered Here.

Problem: Help making mastectomy bras, bras where one breast is very different in

size to the other, or a less-than-full upper cup where the majority of the breast volume has sunken down to the bottom of the cup leaving a cave effect in the top half of the bra.

Solution: You can take a dart through the made cup tapering from nothing - to a bit through the nipple point and out to nothing again - remembering Not to alter the seam lines - it must start and finish inside the cup. That works when you don't have

a lot to take out.

What I tend to do is pad out the bottom cup - like a push-up bra - not on the sides to give cleavage but the whole lower cup to put the breast back where you want it -

so you don't look quite so flat-chested with lumps down on the waist line.

I also cut the bottom cup into 3 sections - add seam allowances, stitch it back together - reinforce the seams - and this helps to give support up as well.

You can add a little pouch to the lower cup (like in mastectomy bras) and add a

little elliptical shape to give the uplift as well - they can be removed for washing.

Don't add padding to the upper cup as that just adds more downward push and doesn't solve the problem if you have a lot of droop.

Hope these ideas work for you, and any one else reading this. Try putting the bra

on and inserting bits of wadding (batting) to see where you want the uplift. Don't push it up too far or you'll look like you have two lumps out the bottom of your

chin!

For a peek at bras sewn by Pauline, have a look at the Examples Page.

Pauline made these using Kwik-Sew patterns.

The red and black bra was made from the RTW bra featured in Class 3 Part 1.

Here's a first attempt at bra making by Pauline's son's girlfriend. We used Kwik-Sew

2489, and added light padding into the cups. She is not an advanced sewer by any means, so it shows how easy making bras is and how successful it can be.This bra

is done with a woven fabric.