SUMMER 2016
Your Best Summer
Ever
+
42 OF AMERICA’S GREATEST
NATIONAL PARKS, CITIES,
BEACHES AND ROAD TRIPS
Find your perfect island
Discover insiders’ secret Europe
Plan a dream African safari
Enjoy weekend escapes to
Nova Scotia, Maui,
Sausalito, Martinique,
Colorado and more
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p. 40
Celebrating National Parks
On the 100th anniversary of America’s National Park Service, journey to some of the nation’s most spectac-ular destinations, from the majestic landscapes of Alaska's Denali to the rocky desert moonscape of South Dakota’s Badlands to Florida’s Everglades, America’s largest tropical wilderness.
p. 52
Insider's Guide to Europe
A secret speakeasy in Rome, a scenic Barcelona mountaintop, a perfect Parisian breakfast and more: concierges at some of Europe’s trendiest hotels reveal their favorite local spots.
p. 62
10 PerfectIslands
Find out which island matches your travel personality.
p. 74
Animal Planet
Travel along the Zambezi River and through northern Zimbabwe to encounter lions, bipedal elephants and the mighty “smoke that thunders.”
Summer 2016 Volume 2 / Number 2
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contentsFEATURES
All prices correct at press time. Prices for hotel rooms are for double, en suite rooms in low season, unless otherwise stated. Flight prices are for the least expensive round-trip ticket.
//A pride of lions rests in Hwange National Park
in Zimbabwe; an estimated 500 live in the region.
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6 LONELY P L ANE T / S u m m e r 2 0 1 6
contents
// Cure Bar in New Orleans, known for its inno-
vative cocktails, is one of chef Alon Shaya’s
recommendations in our “What to Eat” feature.
Globetrotter p. 9
5 Spots
A global list of the hot spots you need to know about now.
10 New Ways
Experience London like a local.
Arrivals
Travel info and happenings for the season.
Gear Up
All the gear you need for the perfect summer trip.
Inside Knowledge
Learn how to take advantage of a stopover.
What to Eat
Chef Alon Shaya takes us through New Orleans’s diverse culinary scene.
Easy Trips p. 31Ideas for take-them-now trips to California, Martinique, Nova Scotia and more.
Great Escape p. 87Discover Quebec, Canada’s French-speaking province, from the markets of Montreal to the waters of the mighty St. Lawrence, where migrating whales are the star attraction.
Postcards p. 97Lonely Planet readers share their travel photos.
Mini Guides p. 101
Boston / There’s plenty to do in Beantown this season.
Warsaw / Learn all about Poland's capital and its place in history.
Madrid / Be dazzled by the architectural delights of one of Spain’s top cities.
Vancouver / British Columbia’s capital can keep a family busy all summer long.
Scotland / Explore nine iconic Highlands castles.
Rio de Janeiro / As the Summer Olympics looms large, find the best beaches to visit in Brazil.
DESTINATION INDEX
BELIZECaracol / 18Caye Caulker / 64BRAZILRio de Janeiro / 113CANADABaffi n Island / 71 Clinton / 18 Vancouver / 11, 109 Halifax / 32 La Mauricie National Park / 90 Lac Saint-Jean / 92Montreal / 88Tadoussac / 94CHILEChiloé / 62CROATIAMljet / 66CUBAHavana / 98DENMARKBornholm / 73ENGLANDLondon / 14, 59FRANCEMartinique / 34 Normandy / 97Paris / 60 GERMANYBerlin / 54GREECESantorini / 68 ICELANDReykjavík / 19INDIAJaipur / 99Ladakh / 11ITALYRome / 53JAMAICANegril / 17MADAGASCAR / 72NEPALBhaktapur / 100PERU
Colca Canyon / 99 Cuzco / 11PHILIPPINESBoracay / 67POLANDWarsaw / 105RUSSIASt. Petersburg / 12SCOTLANDHighlands / 111SINGAPORE / 19SPAINBarcelona / 58Madrid / 107SOUTH AFRICAKruger National Park / 11ST. VINCENT AND THE GRENADINESUnion Island / 70THE NETHERLANDSAmsterdam / 56UNITED STATESCalifornia: Sausalito / 39Colorado: Estes Park / 33Florida Panhandle / 38Hawaii: Maui / 16Louisiana: New Orleans / 22Maine: Chebeague Island / 18Massachusetts: Boston / 103New York: Finger Lakes / 35North Carolina: Asheville / 11Oregon: Portland / 36Rhode Island: Block Island / 65Texas: Marfa / 17 NATIONAL PARKS
Arches / 51 Badlands / 45 Big Bend / 44 Denali / 47 Everglades / 45 Grand Canyon / 48 Great Smoky Mountains / 42 Hawaii Volcanoes / 46 Rocky Mountain / 33 Yellowstone / 50 Yosemite / 40, 50ZIMBABWE / 74
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COVER PHOTO / VIEW OF YOSEMITE FALLS, YOSEMITE NATIONAL
PARK, CALIFORNIA. PHOTO BY EARL ROBICHAUX
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editor’s letter
It’s time for a road trip! Whether
you’re planning to visit a specifi c destination or just thinking about
a cross-country drive to experience the best, quaintest or quirkiest of
what America has to off er, summer is the time to hit the road.
Last summer, I took an epic road trip: a drive along Utah’s Scenic
Byway 12, starting in Bryce Canyon and ending up in Boulder, Utah, at
Hell’s Backbone Grill, where I had, unexpectedly, one of the best meals
of my life: the “lemony cluck,” a simple chicken, veggies and rice meal
taken to the next level by its freshness. My friend and I got to spend three leisurely days exploring
Utah; while it was only about 100 miles or so on the byway, there was plenty for us to do as we
drove from town to town. That’s what I love most about road trips: there’s always a unique experi-
ence just around the corner.
A road trip is one of the best ways to explore America’s national parks. In this issue, in
celebration of the 100th anniversary of the National Park Service, we’re featuring several of the
nation’s most popular parks (p. 40). We break them down (it was really tough to choose only 10, by
the way!), linking up some with nearby NPS properties to create longer trips. We also have a drive
to help you discover Nova Scotia’s coast – including pirates (p. 32) – and an itinerary to explore the
white sand beaches of the Florida Panhandle (p. 38), one of my childhood favorites.
If you’d rather fl y or sail to a destination, we’re spotlighting some of our favorite islands (p. 62),
and if you’re headed to Europe this summer, you’ll want to check out our concierges feature (p. 52),
where six of Europe’s top hotel concierges – who know their cities inside and out – off er their
curated suggestions. I particularly love the Paris tips and will take Jean-Claude’s advice to visit Guy
Savoy’s restaurant during my next Paris adventure.
One of my favorite pieces we worked on in this issue is “What to Eat in New Orleans” (p. 22).
I recently dined at Alon Shaya’s restaurant on Magazine Street and I was simply blown away not
only by the chef’s fl avorful, beautiful Israeli food but also by his dedication to making sure that ev-
ery one of his patrons has a memorable experience. When I was there, he walked around the dining
room introducing himself, and you could just feel his energy and how much he wanted you to love
the food that he grew up loving. New Orleans’s food scene stretches far beyond Cajun and Creole,
and chef Shaya is defi nitely helping to redefi ne this vibrant city. If you haven’t been to New Orleans
lately, I suggest adding it to your travel list.
Whatever your summer plans, I hope you fi nd some inspiration on our pages.
Happy travels,
Lauren@laurenrfi nney
Chef Alon Shaya, p. 22
Hiking through the Utah desert
The “lemony cluck” at Hell’s Backbone Grill
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5 SPOTS TO TALK ABOUT RIGHT NOW
10 NEW WAYS TO FALL IN LOVE WITH LONDON
AMAZING PLACES TO STAY AND UNPLUG
INSIDE KNOWLEDGE HOW TO DO A STOPOVER
ARRIVALS TRAVEL NEWS
WHAT TO EAT IN NEW ORLEANS
GEAR FOR A SUMMER ADVENTURE
globetrotterglobetrotterA WORLD OF TRAVEL TRENDS & DISCOVERIES
// Crab season, which offi cially kicked off in April, is an especially popular way to taste the summer fl avors of Chesapeake Bay. Try some at the Chesapeake Crab & Beer Festival on June 25 in Baltimore, or at the J. Millard Tawes Crab & Clam Bake on July 20 in Crisfi eld, Maryland. Find more food festivals in Maryland at visitmaryland.org.
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globetrotter
AmazingPlaces to StayAND UNPLUG
TRAVA ASA HANA / HANA, MAUI
The thought of no A/C, no TV, no Wi-Fi and no
signs of life after 9 p.m. might cause some to
shudder, but you’ll forget all about those mod-
ern conveniences after a few hours of blissful
Zen in Hana, on the Hawaiian island of Maui.
Reachable by municipal airport or by driving the gor-
geous “Road to Hana,” Travaasa Hana consistently
tops lists as one of the most magical spots in the world.
Built in 1944 and originally part of the family-run Hana
Ranch, the resort is now the main point of interest in
the town of 2,300.
Leave your windows open for a cross breeze and you
might hear the crashing ocean waves, or the sounds of
laughter coming from the town’s baseball field. Spot
wild horses down by the water’s edge early in the
morning (and look for Oprah – she owns the land next
door). Grab a piece of fruit right off the tree. Try not to
cry when you leave.
This is no bare-bones eco-resort. Soft, organic lin-
ens, locally made bath amenities and Hawaii’s famous
Kona coffee are some of the special touches you’ll en-
joy. You might never want to leave after visiting the
black-sand beaches of nearby Waianapanapa State
Park or hiking the bamboo forest of Haleakala Nation-
al Park. From $500; travaasa.com/hana
PLUS /
// Waterfalls are abundant on Maui's east coast, where
Hana is located.
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ROCKHOUSE / NEGRIL , JAMAICA
Named after the timber, stone and thatched-roof lodgings,
this was one of the fi rst peaceful retreats on Jamaica’s west
side. Once a favorite haunt of Bob Marley, Bob Dylan and
The Rolling Stones, Rockhouse is a sustainable, social-
ly conscious hot spot. Guests can choose to enroll in the
Passport Program, where they’ll be stripped of their devic-
es and encouraged to “do nothing,” other than partake in
cliff side yoga sessions, Jamaican cooking classes, snorkeling,
a bathing ritual and other pleasant pursuits. Each reset of
the mind or body is rewarded with a stamp in the booklet.
PLUS // The Rockhouse Foundation, the nonprofi t chari-
table arm of the resort, helps the local community out in
a multitude of ways; it will fi nish its fi rst early childhood
education project for those with special needs later this
year. From $95; rockhouse.com
EL COSMICO / MARFA, TEXAS
You might not expect a fashionable set to fl ock to vintage trailers in the
middle of West Texas, but indeed they do, thanks to El Cosmico. There
are stylishly refurbished trailers, yurts, tepees and tents, with a
communal outdoor kitchen and a bathhouse. Creative types don’t
have to worry about getting inspired: there are regular workshops focused
on cooking, crafts, music, stargazing, biking and more. Nearby Marfa off ers
all sorts of art distractions as well, including galleries incorporating the Wild
West landscape and experimental pieces.
PLUS // If you need a little hit of email or Instagram, head to the communal
lobby lounge, where you can connect, although you’ll be hard-pressed to
even remember your devices once the stars come out and put on their night-
ly show. From $85; elcosmico.com
ARTISTS AND BUSI-
NESS EXECUTIVES
ALIKE BUNK DOWN
IN THE UNCONVEN-
TIONAL LODGINGS
AT EL COSMICO IN
MARFA, TEXAS (TOP
AND BOTTOM LEFT).
// ROCKHOUSE, IN
NEGRIL, JAMAICA, IS
GREEN GLOBE CER-
TIFIED, MAKING FOR
A SUSTAINABLE AND
STYLISH ESCAPE
(BELOW).
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easy trips
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CHEF ALON SHAYA, WHOSE ISRAELI
CUISINE IS DAZZLING VISITORS, LOCALS
AND THE FOOD ELITE, TAKES US
AROUND HIS ADOPTED HOMETOWN
AND MUSES ON THE SPIRIT THAT KEEPS
THE CRESCENT CITY ALIVE.
WHAT TO EAT
globetrotter
BY LAUREN FINNEY /
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JODY HORTON
. . . in New Orleans
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opposite: chef alon shaya with his
freshly made pita // he recommends
starting the meal with a selection
of small plates, including hummus
and lutenitsa, a purée of peppers,
eggplant, tomato and spices.
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Whether you’re beach-bound or kicking back at the
pool, keep these sunny-day waterproof essentials on hand.
Hoop chair and table courtesy of PottedStore.com
Clockwise from top left: board shorts, $79, patagonia.com; Pantropic
Panama hat, $95, travelsmith.com; Hopper cooler, $299.99,
yeticoolers.com; floating half-pipe sunglasses retainer, $6.99, chums
.com; portable charcoal grill, $85, kikkerland.com; sandals, $27,
speedousa.com; Nikon waterproof CoolPix camera, $349, nikonusa
.com; Kindle Paperwhite waterproof cover, $24.99, satechi.net; zip-up
one piece, $95, nextbyathena.com; Rifles tide watch, $125, ripcurl.com;
BoomBottle H2O mobile speaker, $99.99, scosche.com; turquoise
speaker, $49, sunnylife.com; waterproof blanket, $39, alitedesigns
.com; Luzon daypack, $35.95, cotopaxi.com.
mat: Rolls up to less than
4 inches thick
cooler: Holds up to 18 cans
camera: Built-in Wi-Fi
connectivity
GEAR UP for Summer
globetrotter // GEAR
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easy trips QUICK ESCAPES FOR SUMMER
City weekends, surf and sand, mountain hikes
– we’ve got it all for the perfect break.
Featuring:
Nova Scotia, Canada
Martinique
Portland, Oregon
Finger Lakes, New York
Estes Park, Colorado
and more!
// Blue sea and skies are just two of the reasons to travel to Martinique, one of the easiest Caribbean islands to visit.©
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Martinique
SERVICE
CENTENNIAL
NATIONAL PARK
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BEAUTIFULAMERICA THE
As the National Park Service celebrates its centennial, there
is no better time to explore America’s scenic parks. Here, we
feature 10 of our favorites – from the Alaskan wilderness of
Denali to the unique ecosystem of Florida’s Everglades.
// A lone hiker looks out over Yosemite Point, at
Yosemite National Park in California. Yosemite’s
beauty sparked the idea of setting aside land as a
protected park. It inspired writers and artists like
naturalist John Muir and photographer Ansel Adams
to produce their finest work. And to the indigenous
Miwok, it was a land of forest and river spirits and
thousands of years of ancestral beauty.
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// A view from 6,643-foot Clingmans Dome,
the highest point in Great Smoky Mountains
National Park. A steep half-mile hike at the
end of 7-mile Clingmans Dome Road leads
to an observation tower offering 360-degree
views of the Smokies.
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PARK IN NUMBERS
816 SQUARE MILES
907 PLANT AND ANIMAL SPECIES
discovered here
78 preserved historic buildings
98milesfrom
Great Smoky
Mountains
2hours
Canoeing through the black
waters of South Carolina’s Con-
garee – Spanish moss dripping
overhead, muffled bird-cries in
the distance – is an unforgettable
experience. nps.gov/cong
252milesfrom
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Mountains
4hours
+
20min.
30milesfrom
Great Smoky
Mountains
50min.
IMAGINE WATCHING THE SKY GO FROM INK-BLACK TO PERI-
WINKLE-BLUE as pink dawn clouds ripple across the endless,
wrinkled chain of peaks stretching toward the horizon. It’s
like nowhere else on earth. From the fog-choked summit of
Clingmans Dome to the photogenic ghost town of Cades
Cove to the tinkling music of a dozen silvery waterfalls,
there’s something deeply magical about these mountains.
Experience it by hiking the park’s trails, sleeping in its many
remote campgrounds, splashing in its icy swimming holes
and driving its winding back roads. Unlike most national
parks, Great Smoky Mountains charges no admission to
visitors, thanks to a proviso in the park’s original charter as
part of a grant from the Rockefeller family. Its lack of entry
fee and its convenient location to many eastern cities make
Great Smoky Mountains America’s most visited national
park. More than 10 million people travel to the park each
year. Most don’t stray far from their cars, though, which is
their loss: once you get a few hundred steps away from the
road, you’re in your own personal fairyland. nps.gov/grsm
GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK /
TENNESSEE
& NORTH
CAROLINA
CONGAREE
NATIONAL PARK
CUMBERLAND GAP
NATIONAL HISTORIC PARK
BLUE RIDGE
PARKWAY
Take in the beauty of the Appa-
lachian Highlands on a leisurely
drive along this 469-mile route
through North Carolina and Vir-
ginia. nps.gov/blri
What was once a great gate-
way to the West, this historic site
– spanning Kentucky, Tennessee
and Virginia – features a 19th
century mountaintop settlement,
spectacular overlooks, trails and
a cave. nps.gov/cuga
EXTEND YOUR TRIP
Highlights
ÿLeConte is no ordinary hotel. Perched near
the 6,593-foot summit of Mount LeConte,
this electricity-free lodge, typically booked
a year in advance, is reached on foot. Sup-
plies are packed in on llamas (see them
hoofing it up Trillium Gap Trail on Monday,
Wednesday and Friday mornings). Hikers
dine by the light of kerosene lamps before
retiring to bunks to doze through the silent
Appalachian night. lecontelodge.com
STAY HERE LeConte Lodge /
1 DRIVE 30-MILE
NEWFOUND GAP ROAD
2 STOP TO EXPLORE TRAILS & WATERFALLS
3 TAKE IN THE VIEW FROM
CLINGMANS DOME
4 HIKE TO LAUREL FALLS
5 HIKE TO
ABRAMS FALLS
6 CAMP IN
CADES COVE
7 CYCLE THE 11-MILE
CADES COVE LOOP ROAD
8 TAKE A DIP IN THE
“Y” SWIMMING HOLE
9 VISIT THE MUSEUM OF THE CHEROKEE INDIAN
DON’T MISS GATLINBURG, TENNESSEE
10
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DRIVE 30-MILE
STOP TO EXPLORE
TAKE IN THE VIEW FROM TAKE IN THE VIEW FROM
HIKE TO HIKE TO
HIKE TO HIKE TO
CAMP IN CAMP IN
CYCLE THE 11-MILE CYCLE THE 11-MILE
TAKE A DIP IN THE TAKE A DIP IN THE
VISIT THE VISIT THE
DON’T MISS DON’T MISS
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PETRIFIED FOREST
NATIONAL PARK
Time travelers from the Triassic Period,
petrified trees now rest comfortably
on windswept Arizona grasslands
flanked by brilliant badlands and intri-
cate petroglyphs. nps.gov/pefo
203
milesfrom
Grand Canyon
3hours
SAGUARO
NATIONAL PARK
The saguaro cactus thrives in its
namesake park, where sunbaked
trails meander through an Arizona
desert wonderland of prickly cacti and
wildlife, including roadrunners, gila
monsters and javelinas. nps.gov/sagu
337milesfrom
Grand Canyon
5hours
NAVAJO
NATIONAL MONUMENT
Step back in time – to AD 1250, to be
precise – when you visit the well-pre-
served prehistoric cliff dwellings on
Navajo land in northern Arizona.
nps.gov/nava
142milesfrom
Grand Canyon
2 1/2hours
THE GRAND CANYON, WITH ITS HYPNOTIC FOLDS OF GOLD AND
RED CLIFFS, its mesas rippling endlessly toward the horizon, is
one of the earth’s most magnificent wonders. The wild Colo-
rado River has been sawing away at the Arizona landscape
for some 6 million years. Along with wind, ice and continental
drift, it has slowly cut through the earth, creating the vast
chasm we see today. A mile deep, 18 miles wide and 277
miles long, its scope is truly hard to appreciate until you’ve
seen it yourself. Come here to hike narrow trails down sand-
stone cliffs, to raft the roiling waters of the Colorado, to ride
a mule through fragrant stands of piñon and sagebrush. Or
just come to stand on the rim, camera in hand, marveling at
the wonder of it all. Each year some 5 million people from all
over the globe visit the Grand Canyon. About 90 percent of
them go to the warmer South Rim, with its arid summers,
silver falls, snowy fairyland winters and cool blue springs.
The higher, colder North Rim is more difficult to access, but
is rewarding for its crowd-free trails and silent nights pow-
dered with stars. More far-flung areas are administered by
Native American tribes, including the psychedelic blue falls of
the Havasupai reservation and the vertiginous glass Skywalk
of the Hualapai people. nps.gov/grca
Built in 1905 by celebrated architect Charles
Whittlesey, this rimside chalet has quite a
history. Luminaries from Albert Einstein to
Paul McCartney have slept in the limestone
and Oregon pine lodge, a National Historic
Landmark. Wake to jaw-dropping views.
grandcanyonlodges.com
GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK /ARIZONA
1 VISIT THE SOUTH RIM AT DAWN
2 HIKE THE BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL
3 WATCH THE SUNSET AT HOPI POINT
4 TAKE IN THE PANORAMIC VISTAS OF LIPAN POINT
5 CRUISE THE 25-MILE DESERT VIEW DRIVE
6 TAKE A HALF-DAY MULE TRIP ALONG THE RIM
7 RAFT THE COLORADO RIVER
8 HIKE TO HAVASU FALLS (AT RIGHT)
9 SPEND THE NIGHT AT PHANTOM RANCH
EXTEND YOUR TRIP
STAY HERE El Tovar Hotel /
Highlights
PARK IN NUMBERS
1,902 SQUARE MILES
area covered
8,800 FEET
highest point (Point Imperial)
2 BILLION YEARS
age of oldest rocks in the canyon
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VISIT THE
2 HIKE THE
3 WATCH THE 3 WATCH THE
4 TAKE IN THE 4 TAKE IN THE
5 CRUISE THE 5 CRUISE THE
6 TAKE A 6 TAKE A
7 RAFT THE 7 RAFT THE
8 HIKE 8 HIKE
9 SPEND THE NIGHT 9 SPEND THE NIGHT
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PARK IN NUMBERS
3,468 SQUARE MILES
300 FEET HIGHthe highest geyser, Steamboat
674–839grizzly bears
1 SEE OLD FAITHFUL
2 DRIVE 142-MILE GRAND LOOP ROAD
3 HIKE THE FAIRY FALLS TRAIL TO GRAND PRISMATIC SPRING
4 KAYAK, SWIM OR FLY-FISH IN YELLOWSTONE LAKE
5 TAKE AN EARLY MORNING DRIVE TO GRAND CANYON OF THE YELLOWSTONE
1 STROLL TO BRIDALVEIL FALL
2 SEE YOSEMITE FALLS
3 WATCH THE SUNSET FROM GLACIER POINT
4 TAKE AN EARLY MORNING WALK TO MIRROR LAKE
5 TAKE THE MIST TRAIL HIKE
UPON ENTERING YOSEMITE VALLEY, everyone gasps at the panoramas from
the Tunnel View roadside overlook. Standing above the lush green valley floor
carpeted with meadows and a meandering river, you’ll view a scene that’s
been 10 million years in the making. On the right, Bridalveil Fall gushes over
cliffs, while above it hang the pointed Cathedral Rocks. On the left, El Capitan
towers more than 3,000 feet above the valley floor; it’s the largest gran-
ite monolith in the world, issuing a siren’s call to rock climbers. Far off in the
distance is the curved tooth of the polished granite Half Dome (left), the park’s
most famous landmark. Yet all this is only the beginning of Yosemite’s natural
wonders. nps.gov/yose
YELLOWSTONE IS THE NAME PEOPLE ARE MOST LIKELY TO ASSOCIATE WITH “NATIONAL
PARK” – it's the very symbol of the American West. And, for many, to visit the
park is to cross a major item off their bucket list. Few who haven’t visited Yellow-
stone know how weird it is. It's weird in a good way – a fantastic way – but weird
nonetheless. This isn’t all scenic mountains and wildflower meadows. This is
fields of burbling mud, cracks in the earth that belch steam and howl, and
pastel-blue hot springs that will boil an adult alive in three seconds flat. This is
geysers that erupt without warning, sending sulfurous water hundreds of feet
in the air. There are also scenic mountains and wildflower meadows – and an
amazing, photogenic canyon, some grand glacial lakes and magnificent old
park lodges. But first and foremost, Yellowstone is about its geothermal
features, in all their bizarre glory. nps.gov/yell
STAY HERE Old Faithful Inn /
yellowstonenationalparklodges.com
STAY HERE The Majestic Yosemite Hotel /
travelyosemite.com
YELLOWSTONE
NATIONAL PARK /
WYOMING, MONTANA & IDAHO
ÿ
ÿ
Highlights
Highlights
YOSEMITE
NATIONAL
PARK /
CALIFORNIA
PARK IN NUMBERS
1,190 SQUARE MILES
1890 year established
2,425 FEET
height of Yosemite Falls
LP052416_NPS.indd 50 4/25/16 5:05 PM
1 SEE OLD FAITHFUL
1 STROLL TO BRIDALVEIL FALL
5 TAKE AN EARLY MORNING DRIVE
5 TAKE THE
3 HIKE THE3 HIKE THE
4 TAKE AN4 TAKE AN
3 WATCH THE3 WATCH THE
4 KAYAK, SWIM OR FLY-FISH4 KAYAK, SWIM OR FLY-FISH
2 DRIVE 142-MILE GRAND LOOP ROAD2 DRIVE 142-MILE GRAND LOOP ROAD
5 TAKE AN EARLY MORNING DRIVE5 TAKE AN EARLY MORNING DRIVE
3 WATCH THE
2 SEE
4 KAYAK, SWIM OR FLY-FISH4 KAYAK, SWIM OR FLY-FISH
5 TAKE AN EARLY MORNING DRIVE5 TAKE AN EARLY MORNING DRIVE
3 WATCH THE3 WATCH THE
5 TAKE AN EARLY MORNING DRIVE5 TAKE AN EARLY MORNING DRIVE
4 KAYAK, SWIM OR FLY-FISH4 KAYAK, SWIM OR FLY-FISH
2 SEE
Hotel concierges know all the local hot spots and hidden destinations.
Here, six of Europe’s best share their favorite places to eat, drink, explore and relax.
EUROPECONCIERGE SECRETS:
By Sophie McGrath / Portraits by Jake Walters
// Cotton House
Hotel in Barcelona,
Spain
LP052416_CON.indd 52 4/25/16 1:45 PM
SALINI IS A SEVENTH-GENERATION ROMAN AND THE FOUNDER OF G-ROUGH,
A COLLECTION OF STYLISH SUITES ADORNED WITH MODERN ART AND MID-
CENTURY FURNITURE IN ARTFULLY DISTRESSED SETTINGS (G-ROUGH.COM).
HE CONCEIVES OF G-ROUGH AS A HOME AWAY FROM HOME, AND OFFERS
GUESTS HIS OWN RECOMMENDATIONS FOR EXPLORING THE ETERNAL CITY.
WHY I LOVE ROME
Roma backwards spells “amor,” or love, which
sums up the feeling anyone born in Rome has
for the city. Personally, I love its architectural
mix and beauty, its blue sky, its cultural rich-
ness and its easy escapes out to mountains,
lakes and the sea. And, of course, it’s the capital
city of the most beautiful country in the world.
FAVORITE PLACE TO SOAK UP SOME CULTURE
Tor Marancia is a suburb of Rome where urban
artists have covered dozens of buildings in
amazing murals. It’s an attempt to transform an
ugly place into a beautiful one, and make the
suburbs a more enjoyable place to be. I find it
really interesting.
FAVORITE PLACE TO SHOP
SBU is a clothes shop owned by two brothers, Pa-
trizio and Cristiano. I love their jeans; they fit very
well and are made in the north of Italy, so the craft
and fabric quality are excellent. SBU has a friend-
ly atmosphere and a stylish interior, with a little
courtyard where the brothers sometimes serve
drinks (sbu.it).
FAVORITE FREE EXPERIENCE
I love to walk around the city center, enjoying the
tangibility of its history and art. It makes the whole
city into an open-air museum – while, at the same
time, it’s full of the lively choreography of locals,
speaking, moving, gesticulating and shouting.
FAVORITE NEIGHBORHOOD TO LAZE AWAY
AN AFTERNOON
Rione Monti is the oldest neighborhood in Rome,
just off the Forum on a little hill. It’s also one of the
youngest, in spirit: it’s a very creative place with
lots of local shops and a real cultural mix, from
Japanese restaurants to piadina (flatbreads)
from northern Italy. I often stop for a gourmet
sandwich in Tricolore (tricolorepanini.com) and
at the Sacripante gallery and bar (sacripante
artgallery.com); for dinner, I like Urbana 47, which
has a local sourcing policy (urbana47.it).
FAVORITE PLACE TO EAT
Al Moro is an old-time, traditional restaurant,
from the silverware and wood-paneled walls
to the way the waiters are dressed and the ta-
bles laid. The owner will serve you, host you
and tell you about the dishes; there’s a big
picture on the wall of his grandfather, who
the restaurant is named after. The white truf-
fle with freshly made tagliolini is amazing,
and I love to end with some sweet home-
made zabaglione with chocolate (ristorante
almororoma.eu).
FAVORITE EXPERIENCE TO SPLURGE ON
IF Experiences offers experiences led by experts:
a nighttime visit to a secret museum or archae-
ological site, entry to a private palace, or, my
favorite, a glass of champagne in the bell tower
of Sant’Agnese in Agone, a 17th-century church.
It’s almost impossible to get the key; I don’t know
how they do it. Being in a place so old feels like
climbing up into the past (iflm.it).
FAVORITE BAR
Jerry Thomas is great for a late night. It’s a small
speakeasy open until 4 in the morning, where
you have to book a table and get the password
(which changes often) to be allowed in. Inside is
one of the world’s top mixology bars, manned by
excellent bar staff; at the moment, I’m partial to
their whiskey sour. There’s . . . sometimes live mu-
sic too (thejerrythomasproject.it).
GABRIELE SALINI,
G-ROUGH
Clockwise from
top: the Sito
Room at G-Rough
// Sant’Agnese
in Agone // Tor
Marancia // Jerry
Thomas bar //
the city center //
SBU clothing shop
ROME
S u m m e r 2 0 1 6 / LONELY P L ANE T
TH
IS P
AG
E C
LOC
KW
ISE
FR
OM
TO
P L
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T: C
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ES
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H; J
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ALT
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S; A
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GE
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; MA
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JAK
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AL
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OP
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53
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LONELY P L ANE T / S u m m e r 2 0 1 654
Hospitality graduate Warren worked
in Thailand before joining Das Stue
five years ago. She is guest relations
manager at the hotel, once the Danish
embassy and now grandly redesigned,
with striking artwork and a Michelin-
starred restaurant (das-stue.com).
TESS WARREN,
DAS STUE
BERLIN
LP052416_CON.indd 54 4/25/16 1:45 PM
55S u m m e r 2 0 1 6 / LONELY P L ANE T
WHY I LOVE BERLIN
It’s a really creative and fun city. I love its diversity; it’s multicultural and
people are very open-minded.
FAVORITE PLACE TO SOAK UP SOME CULTURE
Sammlung Boros is a bunker converted into a contemporary art
gallery. The family that bought it had so much art that they
decided to store it there, and now they offer private tours,
showing people around and explaining the works. There are
more than 700 pieces – including artworks by Ai Weiwei
and Alicja Kwade that I really love – and the location is so
interesting (sammlung-boros.de).
FAVORITE PLACE TO SHOP
The streets and courtyards of Hackescher Markt have lots of cool
shops featuring Berlin designers and small brands. I go there to buy
clothes, including good-quality designer vintage pieces. I also love Paper &
Tea, which is a shop that sells stationery, posters and great tea. I always tell
guests to walk around Hackescher Markt and get a bit lost because it’s such
a nice area (hackescher-markt.de).
FAVORITE PLACE TO EAT
Curry 36 is an imbiss (fast-food counter) that does a very good currywurst,
a sausage with curry sauce served with fries or bread. It’s a typical dish here
that a lot of people eat – nothing fancy, but it tastes so good (curry36.de).
FAVORITE BAR
Klunkerkranich is a bar on top of a parking lot that has views over the whole
of Berlin – a great place to sit on a summer afternoon, or to watch the sun
go down. It’s very informal, with people lounging around on couches, and
has great music and a really nice atmosphere. They have all kinds of drinks,
but I usually go for gin and tonic or a glass of wine (klunkerkranich.de).
FAVORITE PLACE TO GET OVER A HANGOVER
I’d head to The California Breakfast Slam for a bloody mary (or two, or three).
It’s a casual, American-style breakfast place that does great hangover
food. I can never decide what to get, so I’ll have something like eggs Bene-
dict to share and then the pancakes, which are really good (cabslam.com).
FAVORITE FREE EXPERIENCE
The Sunday karaoke in the Mauerpark is hilarious. Someone started it with
a laptop and portable speakers, probably as a joke, and now it’s so popu-
lar that people queue up to participate. It’s like a free [American] Idol in the
park’s open-air theater, with hundreds of people showing up to watch. Some
acts are really good and some are really bad, but funny; it’s completely dif-
ferent every time. I’ve never seen anything else like it (bearpitkaraoke.com).
FAVORITE POP-UP
Streetfood Thursday is a unique event on Thursday evenings, with street
food, drinks and music inside an old market hall in Kreuzberg. The stalls are
always changing, but there’s food from all around the world: Vietnamese
buns, oysters from Holland, pizza and pasta, and great barbecue dishes, for
example. I like to try everything. It’s a popular evening and a really
fun place to people-watch (facebook.com/StreetFoodThursday).
FAVORITE JOURNEY
Taking a boat along the River Spree is nice because you get
to see Berlin from a different side. In the summer, I might rent
a boat in Treptower Park, where there there’s a lake with a
little island, and you can also head out on the river. It’s a fun
place to hang out (sternundkreis.de, rent-a-boat-berlin.com).
EVENT I’M MOST LOOKING FORWARD TO THIS YEAR
Lollapalooza [music festival] . . . first came to Berlin last year, when it was
held in an old airport – hopefully the location will be as unusual this year.
The coolest artists play there and I can’t wait to go (lollapaloozade.com).
STRANGEST
REQUEST
We had to arrange
for a violinist to wake up
a guest on his birthday
with a Lionel Richie song.
Clockwise from
top left: at Cal-
ifornia Breakfast
Slam // One of the
elegantly appoint-
ed rooms at Das
Stue // Curry 36 //
Hackescher Markt
// Klunkerkranich
// boat along the
River Spree
EVERY DAY, I GROW A BIT MORE IN
LOVE WITH BERLIN.“
”CLO
CK
WIS
E F
RO
M T
OP
LE
FT
: CO
UR
TE
SY
OF
CA
LIF
OR
NIA
BR
EA
KFA
ST
KIT
CH
EN
; CO
UR
TE
SY
OF
DA
S S
TU
; JA
KE
WA
LTE
RS
; JA
KE
WA
LTE
RS
; JU
LIA
N N
EL
KE
N;
JON
AR
NO
LD
/ A
WL
IMA
GE
S
LP052416_CON.indd 55 4/25/16 1:45 PM
PERFECT ISLAND
find your
for culture /
CHILOƒ, CHILE
Chiloé, it’s often said, is an island whose character
was inherited from surrounding seas rather than
from the Chilean mainland Ð be it through the fisher-
men who set out on foggy mornings to bring home a catch
to make curanto (seafood and meat steam-cooked over
hot rocks) or the Magellanic and Humboldt penguins that
squint out to sea from the western coast. The architec-
ture in this blustery, green land looks like nothing else in
South America. In Chiloé you’ll see palafitos (stilt houses)
in Castro (pictured) and other villages, as well as World
Heritage-listed churches built entirely from timber, which
creaks sonorously in the Pacific wind. Among the latter are
the church of San Francisco de Castro, painted mustard
yellow and purple, and the more sober 18th-century Santa
Maria de Loreto, held together by wooden pegs.
ESCAPE TO YOUR OWN VERSION OF
PARADISE AT SOME OF OUR FAVORITE
ISLANDS WORLDWIDE, FROM THE COAST
OF NEW ENGLAND TO THE BALTIC SEA.
TIP The 106,000-acre
Chiloé National Park
teems with wildlife, from
110 different types of birds,
to foxes and the reclusive
pudú (the world’s smallest
deer), which inhabits the
shadowy forests of the
contorted tepú tree.
LP052416_ISL.indd 62 4/25/16 2:24 PM
MIC
HA
EL
RU
NK
EL
/GE
TT
Y IM
AG
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LP052416_ISL.indd 63 4/25/16 2:24 PM
PERFECT ISLAND
find your
for doing absolutely nothing /
CAYE CAULKER, BELIZE
“No Shirt, No Shoes . . . No Problem.” You’ll see this sign everywhere
in Belize, but in no place is it more apt than on Caye Caulker. Indeed,
nothing seems to be a problem on this tiny island, where the only traffic sign
instructs golf carts and bicycles to “go slow,” a directive that’s taken seriously.
The island has long been a budget traveler’s favorite, but in recent years tour-
ists of all ages and incomes have begun to appreciate its unique atmosphere.
There are no hassles; instead, just white sandy beaches, balmy breezes, fresh
seafood, azure waters and a fantastic barrier reef right at its doorstep. All
visitors should be sure to schedule in plenty of time for swinging in a hammock
and enjoying the breeze (which is a legitimate activity here).
TIP Caye Caulker is a great
home base for some of the
best snorkeling in the world.
The excellent spots in the
area include Hol Chan
and Shark Ray Alley, acces-
sible by one of the many
tour operators that line
Front Street.
LONELY P L ANE T / S u m m e r 2 0 1 664
TH
IS P
AG
E:
MO
RE
NO
VE
L/G
ET
TY
IM
AG
ES
; O
PP
OS
ITE
PA
GE
: B
ILL
KE
NN
ED
Y/G
ET
TY
IM
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ES
LP052416_ISL.indd 64 4/25/16 2:24 PM
for a taste of New England / BLOCK ISLAND, RHODE ISLAND
This New England island’s attractions are simple. Stretch-
ing for several miles to the north of Old Harbor is a love-
ly beach. Bike or hike around the rural, rolling farmland,
pausing to admire lighthouses (including Southeast Light-
house, pictured) or the many species of birds that inhab-
it the island. With a population of just 1,050, Block
Island is a great alternative to more popular spots
Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard; local places such
as Oar, where you can have the delightful combo of sushi
and sailboat watching on the lawn, will liven you up when
you feel like you’re about to fall into total coastal Zen.
TIP The most popular way
to reach Block Island is via
one of the ferries that run
from locations in Connecti-
cut, Rhode Island and New
York. blockislandferry.com
and goblockisland.com
LP052416_ISL.indd 65 4/25/16 2:24 PM
for atmosphere /
SANTORINI, GREECE
Few volcanic eruptions have adjusted geography for the better like
the blast that shook Santorini more than three millennia ago, an
explosion that turned a single island into a curious chunk of land shaped like
a broken Life Saver. What stands today is a place unlike any other: windmills,
churches and whitewashed houses cascading down cliffs that were once the
rim of a mighty volcano, blue sea having long since replaced bubbling magma
below. Vacations in Santorini follow an established routine: idling on beaches of
red volcanic sand, rambling the alleyways of hilltop villages (such as Oia, seen
here), and visiting the crumbling ruins of Akrotiri – an outpost of the Minoan
civilization until it was destroyed by said eruption around 1620 BC. All, however,
are but a prelude to the daily drama of watching the setting sun shimmering in
the waters of the Southern Aegean, from a balcony high on the cliffs.
TIP Lodgings in Fira,
Santorini’s main town, can
be pricey. Expect to pay for
a view. If you don’t mind
walking into Fira, try accom-
modations in Firostefani
and Imergovigli instead.
PERFECT ISLAND
find your
TH
IS P
AG
E:
AR
TIE
PH
OT
OG
RA
PH
Y/G
ET
TY
IM
AG
ES
LP052416_ISL.indd 68 4/25/16 3:42 PM
LP052416_ISL.indd 69 4/25/16 2:25 PM
JOURNEY TO SOUTHERN AFRICA
FOR UNIQUE ENCOUNTERS WITH
WILDLIFE ALONG THE SHORES OF
THE ZAMBEZI.
ZimbVICTORIA FALLS, IN THE MIDDLE OF
THE ZAMBEZI RIVER at the border
between Zambia and Zimbabwe,
is considered the world’s largest
waterfall. The water level peaks
in April, at the end of rainy
season, when more than 130
million gallons fl ow over the
edge per minute, causing an
explosion of spray that can be
seen from 30 miles away. Here,
bathers on the Zambian side sit
at the lip of the falls, in a basin
known as the Devil’s Pool.
By Amanda Canning / Photographs by Jonathan Gregson
Wild
ZimbabweWild
Zimbabwe//
LP052416_ZIM.indd 74 4/25/16 10:57 AM
JOURNEY TO SOUTHERN AFRICA
FOR UNIQUE ENCOUNTERS WITH
WILDLIFE ALONG THE SHORES OF WILDLIFE ALONG THE SHORES OF
THE ZAMBEZI.THE ZAMBEZI.
S u m m e r 2 0 1 6 / LONELY P L ANE T
75
abweLP052416_ZIM.indd 75 4/25/16 10:57 AM
u
In the mythology of the region’s Tonga people, the Zambezi, one
of Africa’s largest rivers, is home to the river god Nyami Nyami. A giant
dragon, with the body of a serpent and the head of a fi sh, Nyami Nyami
provides for the Tonga when times are hard. In 1957 and 1958, Zimbabwe
suff ered the worst fl oods it had seen in recorded history, twice sweeping
away the wall being built to create Lake Kariba. Nyami Nyami is angry,
said the Tonga; he does not want the dam. Sightings of a 650-foot-long
beast weaving through the lake are still reported in the local papers, and
the region’s earthquakes are attributed to the monster crashing against
the dam, attempting to reach his wife stranded on the other side.
Local guide Student Muroyiwa grew up with these stories. Wearing a
crisply ironed shirt and safari shorts – clothes with which Fothergill would
be well familiar – he steers his boat among the treetops. Their blackened
branches poking out of the water like macabre fi ngers, the trees are all that
remain of a mopane forest that once carpeted the Kariba Gorge, lost when
the Zambezi was dammed. Cormorants settle on their branches, taking to
the air only to dip suddenly beneath the surface, while swallows fresh from
their summer breaks in Europe snatch up insects above it.
Muroyiwa points to an island named after the last human to leave the
valley as the waters rose around him. “Mola believed in Nyami Nyami and
he knew he didn’t want the dam. ‘There’s no way the water will get to my
doorstep,’ said Mola. But the water started coming and coming and it came
right into his house,” explains Muroyiwa. “In the end, he just got into his
canoe and paddled away.”
Muroyiwa’s mother, Unarie, was another who left when the lake was
formed, walking 12 miles inland to the resettlement village that was to be
the Tongas’ new home. She sits in the shade of her mud-brick house, its roof
thatched with bluegrass. Tin pots dry in the sun outside. Tomatoes, sweet
potatoes, okra and maize grow in the small plots tended by her family. At the
edge of their cluster of huts, a lookout tower stands empty; as soon as night
falls, one of her grandchildren will climb up and keep watch for marauding
lions, hyenas and elephants. “I am too old to go to the lake now,” Unarie says,
“but my life in the old village was perfect. I never saw Nyami Nyami but I
would be more than happy if he wanted to break the wall.”
Until that day comes, all must adapt to the damming of the Zambezi. A
hundred miles downstream from Kariba, the river continues its journey
to the Indian Ocean in a thick, languid swirl. From the fl oodplain spring
groves of broad, oaklike Faidherbia albida trees, giving the region a strangely
familiar look. Were it not for the zebra snuffl ing beneath the branches, one
might imagine oneself to be in any nature park on a golden summer’s day.
Cloud Magondo started his training as a wildlife guide in Bumi Hills
before moving here, to Mana Pools National Park, one of Zimbabwe’s four
UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Fixing his “I ♥ Jesus” baseball cap to his
head, he climbs into a canoe and slides off from the bank. A blacksmith
lapwing rises from its nest in the water hyacinth and makes its hostility
known in a frenzy of furious twittering. The eyes and ears of a hippopota-
mus surface. Magondo whacks the side of the canoe with his paddle. “You
don’t want to give a 3-ton animal a surprise,” he says. “If he runs at you, you
won’t outrun him. All that is left is fragments.”
The hippo rises and starts to power through the narrow channel toward
us, a crest of water surging in front of him. A few nervous seconds pass,
waiting for him to plunge beneath the boat and launch us skyward to join
the lapwing – but the hippo runs straight past. “Now we just need to worry
78 LONELY P L ANE T / S u m m e r 2 0 1 6
LP052416_ZIM.indd 78 4/25/16 10:58 AM
hundred miles downstream from Kariba, the river continues its journey
might imagine oneself to be in any nature park on a golden summer’s day.
S u m m e r 2 0 1 6 / LONELY P L ANE T
79
AT HWANGE NATIONAL PARK, lions can
be found at any time of day resting
by watering holes. At night their
deep roars reverberate throughout
the park’s camps. // LEFT: Hwange
National Park is one of the best spots
for giraffe watching. The largest
male giraffes can exceed 18 feet in
height and weigh up to 4,250 pounds;
females top out at just under 15 feet
and around 2,600 pounds.
LP052416_ZIM.indd 79 4/25/16 10:58 AM
CL
OC
KW
ISE
FR
OM
TO
P L
EF
T:
S u m m e r 2 0 1 6 / LONELY P L ANE T 87
great escapeQUEBEC
// A bakery in Montreal, Quebec. From irresistible pa-tisseries and magnificent food markets reminiscent of Paris to English pubs and hipster bars, Montreal has one of the most exciting food scenes in North America. ©
HU
BE
R/S
IME
/ E
ST
OC
K P
HO
TO
BY JOHN A. VLAHIDES
Indulge in distinctive cuisine and explore wild
landscapes in Canada’s French-speaking province.
LP052416_GEQ.indd 87 4/25/16 12:57 PM
LONELY P L ANE T / S u m m e r 2 0 1 690
Clockwise from top:
La Mauricie National Park’s
landscape has been shaped by
the passing of glaciers, creating a
multitude of lakes. // A canoe is the
preferred way to explore the park.
// André Dominique paddles
Lac du Fou.
LP052416_GEQ.indd 90 4/25/16 10:47 AM
postcardsAt the end of 2015 , I spent one month traveling in France. One
morning, I woke up before sunrise and hopped on a bus from
Paris to Normandy to see Mont Saint-Michel, an abbey and
monastery that sits atop an island commune. There is a magical
point just before you reach the fi nal destination, when Mont
Saint-Michel comes into view, and it takes your breath away.
Andrew Webb is a web developer based in Boston, Massachusetts.
WHERE
YOU’VE
BEEN
AND
WHAT
YOU’VE
SEEN
NORMANDY, FRANCEHeavenward
Send your best new
travel photos (at 300 dpi),
– along with the stories
behind them (in 100 words
or less), a photo of
yourself, and a one-
sentence bio – to postcards
@lonelyplanet.com.
LP052416_PCD.indd 97 4/22/16 10:14 AM
mini guides6 TEAR-OUT
LP052416_MIG_Rev_1.indd 101 4/22/16 9:58 AM
Lonely Planet is the perfect travel companion. Receive fresh ideas for long weekends close to home, plus insider advice and inspiration for unforgettable adventures around the globe.
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