Download - Concepts of Aging
Introduction.................................................................................................................................................................3
Cellular Prejuvenation: Oxidative Damage..........................................................................................................................4
Cellular Prejuventation: Suspended Animation.................................................................................................................6
Inflammation as a Precursor to Aging.....................................................................................................................................7
Plant Stem Cell Technology & Pro-Aging.............................................................................................................................8
Probiotics & Pro-Aging.................................................................................................................................................................9
Aging via UV Radiation............................................................................................................................................................10
Neurocosmetics: Age Defying Beauty..................................................................................................................................11
Traditional Methods, Novel Approaches.............................................................................................................................12
References...................................................................................................................................................13
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Version #1/11.18.16
Table of Contents
The science of aging drives the cosmetic market. Despite many years of intense research on the cause of aging, it is still not fully understood and several theories have been proposed to explain the process of aging. By understanding the existing and developing theories of aging, it can be possible to promote successful aging through science focused, technology driven cosmetic claims.
Outlined in this brochure are major biological pathways of aging that served as inspiration for the development of each active ingredient suggested. Using scientific methods, Active Concepts has developed multifunctional active ingredients supported by proven efficacy data to deliver exceptional benefits.
Active Concepts built itself upon three pillars; innovative technology platforms, market leading customer support, and products with a purpose. For almost two decades, Active Concepts has diligently embarked on an endeavor to develop complex, active ingredients that provide formulators with unmatched function, in order to meet and exceed the rapidly increasing consumer demand for more effective technologies that promote successful aging.
The constant demand for new aging products is leading to exciting new
innovations. The resulting unique dynamic of consumer trends and new scientific
innovations are truly driving the industry forward.
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Addressing free radical damage at a cellular level and understanding the negative effects of improper cellular metabolism allows for a unique approach to premature skin aging. Free radical damage was one of the first processes associated with aging, going back to the 1950s when Dr. Denham Harman first proposed oxidation as a mechanism for tissue destruction.1 Free radicals are the predominant intracellular pollutant and mitochondria are responsible for approximately 80% of intracellular free radicals. Mitochondria play crucial roles in several age-related diseases, and in the physiology of normal skin aging. The Mitochondrial Free Radical Theory of Aging (MFRTA) states that the accumulation of oxidative damage in the mitochondria, produced as a byproduct of normal cellular respiration, is the main driving force in the aging process.1
The modern version of the MFRTA proposes that the reactive oxygen species (ROS) superoxide anion, originating from several mitochondrial enzymes, enters into a number of secondary reactions leading to other ROS that ultimately react with and extensively damage cellular macromolecular structures.2 The affected cells accumulate such damage over time and will eventually cease to function normally, contributing to reduced physiological function. Dysfunctional mitochondria send incorrect messages, decrease ATP production, and produce more free radicals. Defective mitochondria replicate their own damaged DNA into new mitochondria, eventually displacing all well-performing mitochondria. Dysfunctional mitochondria are associated with many degenerative diseases. Out of control free radicals cause widespread tissue damage and put our body in a state of oxidative stress. Oxidative stress affects our skin, causing premature signs of aging and disturbing wound healing.
Mitochondrial Function
Generation of Reactive Oxygen Species
Oxidative DamageMitochondrial Mutations
Mitochondrial Dysfunction
Aging
Figure 1. Schematic representation of the mitochondrial free radical theory
Cellular Prejuvenation: Oxidative Damage
Product Code & Name INCI Name Mechanism Multifunctional Benefits
20757PF AC CytoPure PF Crypthecodinium Cohnii Extract
Activates the power of glutathione to reduce the accumulation of reactive oxygen species to contribute to cellular longevity and wound healing
• Anti-pollution active• Cellular detoxification• Wound healing
20024 ACB Wakame Bioferment Advanced
Undaria Pinnatifida CellCulture Extract
Increases oxygen consumption, whilesimultaneously reducing the formation of reactive oxygen species to increase overall mitochondrial efficiency
• Powerful Antioxidant• Increases Collagen Synthesis• Enhances Cellular Longevity
16600 ACB Phyto-Biotics Bifidus Lactobacillus Bifidus Lysate ExtractTargets the mitochondria and inhibits apoptosis while also contributing to the longevity of cells to minimize cellular damage
• Increases cellular oxygen consumption• Reduces the presence of reactive oxygen species• Increases the expression of procollagen
20355 ACB Ox-Red SOD Superoxide Dismutase
An intact enzyme complex comprised of superoxide dismutase as well as the associated chaperone proteins, targets the harmful superoxide anion to neutralize free radicals
• Versatile in formulations• Anti-irritant capabilities• Beneficial for both skin and hair
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Cellular Prejuvenation: Oxidative Damage
Oxidative phosphorylation is the metabolic process that fuels the production of Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP), the major source of energy for our cells. This pathway, also referred to as the electron transport system, transfers electrons from electron donors to electron acceptors. These redox reactions are carried out by a series of mitochondrial protein complexes collectively referred to as the electron transport chain. As the electrons pass through the chain, energy is generated that is used to make ATP. Normally oxygen, the final electron acceptor, is reduced to water. However, leakages occur in the system that generates the formation of damaging hydroxyl and superoxide radicals. Given the intricate structure of mitochondria and their proximity to the toxins that are produced, mitochondria along with mitochondrial DNA are the most vulnerable and susceptible to damage.3 The MFRTA explains that mitochondrial damage increases with age, and is responsible for the physical changes that occur with age.3
The MFRTA opens the door for the skincare industry to investigate the best ways to harness mitochondrial functions for use in the fight against premature skin aging and promote healthy, youthful skin. Current efforts in the industry focus on the development of active ingredients that will protect the mitochondria and boost their function, with the idea that these ingredients will contribute to increased cell protection, cellular longevity, improved barrier function, and a better functioning extracellular matrix.3
Upregulating levels of cellular antioxidants through sulfur biology, enhancing oxidative phosphorylation, and increasing oxygen uptake are mechanisms through which the following Active Concepts active ingredients improve mitochondrial activity to ultimately decrease the production of reactive oxygen species and lead to healthy, more youthful looking skin.
Product Code & Name INCI Name Mechanism Multifunctional Benefits
20793PF AC CytoSulf PF Plankton ExtractPlankton derived sulfide donors induce cellular stasis for skin that defies aging through practical science
• Slows cellular aging• Moisturizing• Next generation anti-aging
Figure 2. Cell Cycle7
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Cellular Prejuvenation: Suspended Animation
Cardiovascular research focused on sulfur dioxide has led to an innovative approach on anti-aging. Sulfur dioxide was previously regarded as a toxic gas in atmospheric pollutants, but it has been found to be endogenously generated from metabolism of sulfur-containing amino acids in mammals. In recent years, studies revealed that sulfur dioxide had physiological effects on the cardiovascular system, including vasorelaxation and cardiac function regulation.4 Pathophysiological effects of sulfur dioxide were also determined. For example, sulfur dioxide improved systemic hypertension and pulmonary hypertension, prevented the development of atherosclerosis, and protected against myocardial ischemia-reperfusion injury and isoproterenol-induced myocardial injury.5 These findings suggested that endogenous sulfur dioxide was a novel gasotransmitter in the cardiovascular system and provided a new therapy target for cardiovascular diseases. Current heart and lung tissue research focused on internal gasotransmitters suggests that sulfide donors can reduce damage in these tissues by decreasing the rate of cell cycle transition, specifically via sulfur dioxide. Internally, sulfur dioxide plays a key role in the cross talk and regulation between pathways involved in cell stasis, such as cAMP/PKA and Erk/MAPK.6
That research found that sulfur dioxide inhibited vascular smooth muscle cell division by preventing cell cycle progression from G1 to S phase and by DNA synthesis. Also important to note, findings supported that internal sulfur dioxide did not influence vascular smooth muscle cell death in any way. Reducing it suspended the tissue in a type of stasis via suppression and control of the Erk/MAPK pathway mediated by cAMP/PKA signaling, without causing cell death.6 As with the endogenous gasotransmitter sulfur dioxide, the Fucci cell cycle assay proves that this product can also halt the cell cycle of human skin cells, specifically in both the G2-M and G1 phase compared to the untreated controls. It is suspected that the oxidized sulfur from thermophilic cells act in the same fashion as internal sulfur dioxide, suspending human keratinocytes in a state of cytostasis.
By prolonging the cell cycle and reducing the rate of cell division, the potential for a new pathway and approach to anti-aging is revealed. Active Concepts has developed a sulfide donor containing cosmetic active that is the cutting edge of age defying beauty.
Product Code & Name INCI Name Mechanism Multifunctional Benefits
16882 Phytofuse Rejuvenate® Salvia Hispanica Seed ExtractIsolated polysaccharides from Chia create a synthetic scaffolding that promotes wound healing and aid in cellular proliferation
• Anti-inflammatory• Promotes wound healing• Protects from environmental stress• Intense antioxidant
20219PF AC Dermal Respiratory Factor Advanced PF Water & Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
Increases cellular oxygenation, wound healing, and reduces inflammation while promoting collagen and elastin synthesis
• Relieves and repairs skin• Stimulates collagen and elastin production• Increases cellular respiration
20339PF ACB Bio-Chelate 5 PF
Water & Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment & Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment & Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment &Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment &Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment
Nutrient rich, fermented minerals efficaciously enhance barrier function and increase growth factor expression for healthier skin
• Anti-inflammatory• Strengthens and conditions skin• Increases cellular energy production• Enhances barrier function
10229 ABS White Willow BarkExtract Powder Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract
Antimicrobial power of natural salicylates reduce erythema and inflammation to promote clear, smooth skin
• Natural alternative to salicylic acid• Reduces redness and alleviates irriation• Excellent antioxidant protection
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Inflammation as a Precursor to Aging
Inflammation has been linked to various diseases, including wrinkling of the skin and the aging process. Exposure to insult from environmental stress, abrasive skin care regimens, or irritants can disrupt the skin barrier and consequently activate the release of proinflammatory cytokines in the skin. These cytokines, including tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF) and interleukin-6 (IL-6), induce protective acute inflammation to trigger the repair of the disrupted skin barrier. The process of aging results in an increase of inflammatory cytokines, which are responsible for many of the degenerative diseases that are associated with aging.8
The nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-κB) signaling pathway has been proposed to be one of the key mediators of aging.8 It is activated by genotoxic, oxidative, and inflammatory stresses and regulates expression of cytokines, growth factors, and genes that regulate apoptosis, cell cycle progression, cell senescence, and inflammation. Transcriptional activity of NF-κB is increased in a variety of tissues with aging and is associated with several age related degenerative diseases including Alzheimer’s, diabetes and osteoporosis. In mouse models, inhibition of NF-κB leads to delayed onset of age-related symptoms and pathologies. In addition, NF-κB activation is linked with many of the known lifespan regulators including insulin and DNA damage.9 Therefore, NF-κB represents a possible therapeutic target for delaying signs and symptoms of aging.
IL-6 is known to play an active role in inflammation, immunology, bone metabolism, reproduction, arthritis, neoplasia, and aging. IL-6 signals through the NF-κB pathway that results in the transcription of inflammatory mediators, including matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). MMPs, including collagenase, elastase, and hyalurodinase, are responsible for breaking down the extracellular matrix and collagen in the skin leading to wrinkles, fine lines, and loss of skin elasticity. Reducing the level of IL-6 and other inflammatory mediators indicates a reduced inflammatory environment which could decrease the signs of aging and reduce the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.
The active ingredients below are capable of reducing levels of IL-6 to defend against inflammation as a precursor to skin aging.
Product Code & Name INCI Name Mechanism Multifunctional Benefits
16587 Phyto-Biotics Acai® Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Capitalizes on the specific activity provided by Ferulic Acid to impartanti-aging, and antioxidant, benefits while enhancing ATP synthesis and cellular metabolism
• Anti-inflammatory capabilities• Antioxidant protection• Enhances cellular metabolism
16588 Phyto-Biotics Quercus® Quercus Alba Bark Extract
Phenolic metabolites of the White Oak impart antioxidant, soothing, antimicrobial and anti-aging benefits while enhancing cellular metabolism
• Potent antioxidant• Increases cellular metabolism• Soothes skin
40600 Phyto-Biotics Perilla® Perilla Frutescens Extract
Harnesses the power of the phenolic metabolite, Rosmarinic Acid, to impart antioxidant, protectant, antimicrobial and anti-aging benefits while enhancing cellular metabolism and improving radical stability
• Improves cellular metabolism• Intense moisturization• Promotes ATP synthesis
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Plant Stem Cell Technology & Pro-Aging
The skin constantly renews itself, however these long-term self-renewing skin stem cells begin to regenerate more slowly as part of the aging process. It is proposed that the impaired wound healing rate in aging skin may be due either to impaired stem cell mobilization or a reduced number of stem cells able to respond to proliferative signals.10 Lost or dying cells begin to outnumber their regenerated counterparts, which likely leads to common signs of aging, such as wrinkles and a decrease in elasticity. It is for this reason that stem cells make intriguing additions to anti-aging products.
Skin stem cells reside in the basal layer of the epidermis and their primary function is to replenish the skin as it undergoes normal homeostasis and wound repair. Like all stem cells, those in the epidermis are identical and capable of dividing themselves for extended periods of time. When a stem cell divides, the daughter cells have the potential to either remain a stem cell, like the parent cell, or they can differentiate into cells with a more specialized function known as progenitor cells. After these progeny experience several rapid divisions in the basal layer, they stop dividing and travel through the suprabasal layers to the tissue surface. Once there, they progressively differentiate, switching from expression of one set of keratins to another. Eventually their nuclei degenerate, producing an outer layer of dead keratinized cells that are shed. Stem cells continuously renew the epidermis, with a turnover time of approximately one month. Epidermal stem cells also are stored in a microenvironment called the bulge, which is located at the base of the hair follicle. They remain dormant there until recruited by neighboring cells to help repair the skin. 11
In recent years, researchers have identified naturally occurring botanicals with substantial antioxidant activity proven to protect skin from UV-induced oxidative stress, inhibit inflammation, neutralize free radicals and reverse the effects of photoaging.11 In contrast to epidermal stem cells, plant stem cells are totipotent, meaning they are capable of regenerating an entirely new, whole plant. Through innovative plant stem cell technology, scientists are able to extract tissue from botanicals and use them for novel cosmetic applications.12
Meristematic plant stem cells begin with no specific activity, but the induction of biotic stress triggers these stem cells to start producing secondary metabolites. These secondary metabolites can be used in cosmetic applications to defend against extrinsic stress, keeping skin looking youthful longer.
The active ingredients below capitalize on specific botanical metabolites to provide the cosmetic market with plant-derived stem cell technology.
Product Code & Name INCI Name Mechanism Multifunctional Benefits
16618 Probacillus Revive Lactobacillus Ferment LysateIsolates of Lactobacillus bulgaricus enhance cellular renewal and speed repair to reinvigorate and renew skin
• Optimizes moisture levels• Maintains young, healthy looking skin• Capitalizes on probiotic trends
20070 ACB Yogurt Extract Water & Yogurt Extract
Useful for diminishing the appearance fine lines and wrinkles, in addition to stretch marks, as it contains the Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA), Lactic Acid Bacteria (LAB)
• Natural exfoliator• Improves moisturization• Enhances cellular viability• Antioxidant protection
16617 Prorevive Blemish Balm Complex Lactobacillus/Salix Alba Bark Ferment Filtrate
Active compounds enhance cellular function, increase renewal and repair, and enhance collagen synthesis to improve skin tone and reduce imperfections
• Stimulates collagen synthesis• Enhances cellular renewal• Antimicrobial
20224PF ACB Yogurt Dermal RespiratoryFactor PF Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Filtrate
Isolates of live bacteria cells increase cellular respiration, cellular metabolism, and collagen production
• Increases cellular respiration• Imparts soothing benefits• Promotes homeostasis
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Probiotics & Pro-Aging
The discovery of the skin microbiome is a revolutionary scientific breakthrough as it presents an opportunity for the development of smarter cosmetics. In and on our bodies, microbial cells outnumber human cells by a factor of 10.13 It is increasingly apparent that this collective set of microorganisms contributes genetic diversity, modulates disease, influences metabolic processes, and is essential for immunity. The human microbiome is also dynamic, and changes associated with health and disease have been described and mechanistically investigated.13 The microbiome is also a prime target for manipulation to influence health and disease processes, including skin aging.
The concept of probiotic bacteria in cosmetics is considerably evolving. Clinical and experimental studies extensively document that probiotic bacteria can benefit the skin when applied topically, just as their oral consumption is associated with intestinal benefits.14 Scientific and evidence-based reports strengthen the assumption that certain probiotics can contribute to modulate cutaneous microflora, lipid barrier, and skin immune system, leading to the preservation of the skin homeostasis and promoting healthy skin. Topical applications of probiotics targeting the skin microbiota may offer promise in the realm of anti-aging. For example, certain metabolites produced by skin microbiota may offer benefit by modulating cutaneous pro-and anti-inflammatory responses, similar to what has been shown in the gastrointestinal tract.14
Probiotics are defined by The World Health Organization as a live microbial culture product which beneficially influences the health and nutrition of the host. In their truest sense, probiotics are bacteria. Given that live bacteria cannot be incorporated into cosmetics, beauty manufacturers looking to capitalize on the benefits associated with probiotics have investigated the option of incorporating bacterial lysates into their formulations. The understanding being that these deliver similar probiotic benefits.
The following actives provide truly unique approaches to delivering probiotic benefits to promote youthful skin.
Product Code & Name INCI Name Mechanism Multifunctional Benefits
20431PF ACB Tonka Bean Bioferment PF Lactobacillus/DipteryxOdorata Seed Ferment Filtrate
Emits visible blue light to counteract dulling effects of other wavelengths and increase luminescence for healthy, revitalized skin
• Illuminates skin imperfections to even skin tone• Antioxidant protection• Promotes collagen synthesis• Improves moisturization
20570PF AC PhytoColl Marine PF Laminaria Japonica Extract
Duplicates the aesthetics of mammalian collagen while delivering enhanced levels ofmoisture to the skin without the associated issues of using and animal base product
• 1:1 Replacement for animal collagen• Hydrating and moisturizing• Fits well with marine and sea trends
20219PF AC Dermal Respiratory Factor Advanced PF Water & Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
Increases cellular oxygenation, wound healing, and reduces inflammation while promoting collagen and elastin synthesis
• Relieves and repairs skin• Stimulates collagen and elastin production• Increases cellular respiration
Exposure to Ultraviolet Radiation
Increased Production of
MMPs
Figure 3. Schematic representation of photoaging
Page 10/14
Aging via UV Radiation
A variety of environmental stresses, particularly ultraviolet light, can damage sun-exposed areas of the skin, such as the face and neck, and accelerate premature aging. Skin aging that is associated with ultraviolet radiation exposure is referred to as photoaging.15
Exposure to ultraviolet light initiates and activates a complex cascade of biochemical reactions in human skin, including the generation of free radicals and reactive oxygen species that stimulate inflammatory processes.16 Ultraviolet radiation causes depletion of cellular antioxidants and antioxidant enzymes, initiates DNA damage, activates the neuroendocrine system leading to immunosuppression and release of neuroendocrine mediators, and causes increased synthesis and release of pro-inflammatory mediators from a variety of skin cells.16 The result of all these effects is inflammation, free radical generation, and the activation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). MMPs break down the extracellular matrix and collagen in the skin leading to wrinkles, fine lines, and loss of skin elasticity.
Ultraviolet radiation may account for up to 80% of visible signs of aging in the skin, including dry appearance, scalping, wrinkling and impaired pigmentation, and photoaging correlates with cancer risk.17
The following actives employ different strategies to address photodamage caused by ultraviolet radiation.
Fibroblast Increases Elastase
Production
Damage to DNA and Mitochondrial
DNA
Activation of Cell Surface Receptors
by ROS
Elastin Degradation
Collagen and ElastinDegradation
Product Code & Name INCI Name Mechanism Multifunctional Benefits
16634 AC Griffonia Lysate Advanced Griffonia Simplicifolia Seed ExtractNaturally derived neurotransmitter and high molecular weight carbohydrates impart a tangible and supple film on the skin
• Tightening and lifting• Immediately perceivable results• Long term anti-aging benefits
Neurocosmetics refer to topical ingredients that work on the skin nervous system, creating new ways of producing a positive action on the nervous system of the skin, promoting an improvement on the skin health.
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Neurocosmetics: Age Defying Beauty
The cutaneous nervous system is a newer aspect of the skin cosmetic formulators are addressing to promote a healthy, youthful appearance. The use of neurocosmetics in formulations can have an effect on how the brain responds to topical treatment. Neurocosmetics targets nerve clusters sensitive to heat, cold, pain, itch and pressure to physiologically act on the mind via the skin. These receptors send signals through the skin to the spinal cord, which are then transmitted up to the cerebral cortex of the brain. The concept is based on the science of neurotransmitters, or chemical vectors of nerve information. These mediators are synthesized by every skin cell and interact between the nerve system and the skin. For that reason, neurocosmetics actives can play a significant role in skin balance by acting on these messengers.18
Neurotransmitters are chemical messages which are known to be released by skin nerve fibers. Skin cells such as keratinocytes, melanocytes, and fibroblasts have many similar characteristics as nerve cells, as both types of cells synthesize and secrete neurotransmitters and express receptors at their surface. The release of neurotransmitters can be induced by physical, chemical, or even emotional stimulus. Over 200 neurotransmitters have been identified, with over 25 being present in the skin.19 These skin neurotransmitters include neuropeptides and non-peptidic neurotransmitters.
Neurocosmetic actives are topical ingredients that work on the cutaneous nervous system to restore the mediator-receptor balance in the skin. An effective neurocosmetic active ingredient can either modulate neurotransmitter effects, neurotransmitter skin synthesis, or affect the activity of neuropeptide receptors.20 Nerves endings have key functions and place in the skin. In the dermis they are continuously communicating with fibroblasts and the aging of neurons may impact fibroblasts and consequently skin aging. Neurocosmetic anti-aging strategies focus on the impact of neurons on skin homeostasis.
Active Concepts has developed a neurocosmetic active that capitalizes on the feel good neurotransmitter serotonin to deliver immediately perceivable results and long term benefits for anti-aging skin care.
Product Code & Name INCI Name Mechanism Multifunctional Benefits
20343 ACB Fruit Mix
Water & Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract & Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract & Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract & Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract & Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract
Five naturally derived alpha hydroxy acids work to normalize the skin by weakening corneocyte adhesion along the stratum corneum to improve exfoliation and enhance cellular proliferation, resulting in a rejuvenated complexion
• Moisturizing and conditioning• Increases rate of cellular renewal• Immediately perceivable results• Decreases appearance of wrinkles
10286 ABS Apple AHA’s
Water & Propylene Glycol& Malic Acid & Pyrus Malus (Apple)Fruit Extract & Glycolic Acid & LacticAcid & Citric Acid
Natural source of alpha hydroxy acids exfoliate the outermost layer of the skin to visibly reduce imperfections
• Immediately perceivable smoothness• Exfoliates and softens skin• Alpha hydroxy acid product
60100PF AC Salicylic Acid Liposome PF Water & Salicylic Acid & Phospholipids
Enhances the delivery of salicylic acid toprovide potent benefits in addition to improving its solubility, allowing for the creationof products with a luxurious and elegant feel
• Sustained delivery• Improves penetration• Conditions skin
26001 AC HyalurosomeDimethicone & Phospholipids & Polymethylsilsesquioxane & Hyaluronic Acid
Liposome delivers time sensitive moisturization for a period that far exceeds that of traditional Hyaluronic Acid
• Time-released hydration• Enhanced penetration• Smoothes and softens skin
60104PF AC Vitamin ACE Liposome PFWater & Phospholipids & Tocopheryl Acetate & Retiny Palmitate & Ascorbyl Palmitate
The encapsulation of Vitamins A, C, and E in lipsomes promotes the distinct and important function of each vitamin to convey the over-all wellbeing and health of the skin
• Nourishing and conditioning• Enhanced delivery• Antioxidant capabilities
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Traditional Methods, Novel Approaches
Commonly used active ingredients in topical application products intended to delay visible signs of aging include Vitamins A, C and E, hyaluronic acid, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). These actives have an abundance of data available demonstrating their benefits in cosmetics. Vitamin A is used in topical treatment to increase the rate of cell division and improve wrinkling, coarseness, hyper pigmentation and roughness associated with over exposure to the sun.21 Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that can accelerate wound healing and play an integral role in elastin and collagen synthesis.21 Vitamin E is an antioxidant with significant moisturizing properties, anti-inflammatory effects and may provide protection from UV damage.21 Hyaluronic acid helps to keep the surface of the skin hydrated, supple and less prone to wrinkling, and acts as a film former.22 AHAs and BHAs can cause increased skin thickness, improvement in skin elasticity and increased collagen content and glycosaminoglycans.23
Active Concepts has taken a new approach to the traditional incorporation of these actives in formulations by utilizing different technologies to promote youthful skin in a novel manner.
1. Harman, D. The Official Journal of the American Aging Association. Free radical theory of aging: consequences of mitochondrial aging. 1983. 6(3):86-94.2. Harman, D. Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences. Free radical theory of aging: an update. 2006. 1067(1):10-21.3. Menon, G. et al. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Mitochondria: A new focus as an anti-aging target in skin care. 2010. 9(2):122-131.4. Wang, X. et al. European Journal of Pharmacology. The biological effect of endogenous sulfur dioxide in the cardiovascular system. 2011. 670(1):1-6.5. Huang, Y. et al. Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity. Endogenous sulfur dioxide: a new member of gasotransmitter family in the cardiovascular system. 2016. 6. Liu, D. et al. Cell Death and Disease. Sulfur dioxide inhibits vascular smooth muscle cell proliferation via suppressing the ERK/MAP kinase pathway mediated by
cAMP/PKA signaling. 2014.7. Pearson Education, Inc., publishing as Benjamin Cummings.8. Lawrence, T. Cold Spring Harbor Perspectives in Biology. The nuclear factor NF-kB pathway in inflammation. 2009. 1(6).9. Harvell, J. et al. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. Percutaneous absorption and inflammation in aged skin: a review. 1994. 31(6):1015-1021.10. Farage, M. et al. Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology. Structural characteristics of the aging skin: a review. 2007. 26(4):343-357.11. Zant, G. et al. Experimental Hematology. The role of stem cells in aging. 2003. 31(8):659-672. 12. Morus, M. et al. Polish Pharmaceutical Society. Plant stem cells as innovation in cosmetics. 2014. 71(5):701-707.13. Grice, E. et al. Nature Reviews Microbiology. The skin microbiome. 2011. 9:244-253. 14. Chen, Y. et al. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. The skin microbiome: current perspectives and future challenges. 2013. 69(1):143-155. 15. Saulnier, D. et al. Gut Microbes. The intestinal microbiome, probiotics and prebiotics in neurogastroenterology. 2013. 4(1):17-27.16. Fisher, G. Cutis. The pathophysiology of photoaging of the skin. 2005. 75(2):5-8.17. Rittie, L. et al. Ageing Research Reviews. UV-light-induced signal cascades and skin aging. 2002. 1(4):705-720.18. Fisher, G. et al. New England Journal of Medicine. Pathophysiology of premature skin aging induced by ultraviolet light. 1997. 337:1419-1429.19. Menon, G. et al. Skin Aging Handbook. Approaches to the development of cosmetic products to counter the effects of skin aging. 2008. 265-290.20. Pauly, G. et al. SOFW Journal. Modulation of cutaneous nervous system to improve skin comfort and well-being. 2010. 136(1):18-26. 21. Reiter, E. SOFW Journal. Neurocosmetics for the Wellness of the Skin. 2005. 131(10):50.22. Shapiro, S. et al. Nutrition. Role of vitamins in skin care. 2001. 17(10):839-844.23. Ghersetuch, L. et al. International Journal of Dermatology. Hyaluronic acid in cutaneous intrinsic aging. 1994. 33(2)119-122.24. Green, B. et al. Clinics in Dermatology. Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids. 2009. 27(5):495-501.
References
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Active Concepts, LLCLincolnton, NC. USA
www. activeconceptsllc.comOffice: +1 (704) 276 7100
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