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Chapter 6 Opener
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Figure 6.1 A rock tossed into a calm body of water generates surface gravity waves that propagate outward in all directions
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Figure 6.2 Ocean waves can take many forms, as these examples show
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Figure 6.3 Capillary waves are very short-wavelength waves that can eventually transition to surface gravity waves
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Figure 6.4 A capillary wave on the surface of the ocean provides a face the wind blows against, making for a more efficient transfer of wind energy to the ocean
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Figure 6.5 The orbital path, equal to the wave height, traced by a particle of water on the surface of the ocean as a wave passes from left to right
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Figure 6.6 The refraction of waves toward beaches and Stokes Drift cause floating debris to accumulate on beaches, rather than being washed out to sea
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Figure 6.6 The refraction of waves toward beaches and Stokes Drift cause floating debris to accumulate on beaches, rather than being washed out to sea
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Figure 6.7 Wave orbits continue with depth beneath a surface wave, but their diameters quickly diminish
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Figure 6.8 In a shallow water wave, the bottom causes the wave orbits to flatten
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Figure 6.9 Shapes of swells and seas
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Figure 6.10 Stages in the development of a sea
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Figure 6.11 Photograph taken from a ship at sea where the sea has become fully developed for that wind speed, which on this day was about 20 knots
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Figure 6.12 (A) Plot of the required fetch and duration for there to be a fully developed sea at indicated wind speeds. (B) Wave heights for a fully developed sea at the indicated wind speeds
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Figure 6.13 (A) The USS Ramapo observed what is believed to be the largest wave ever recorded. (B) The 112-foot wave occurred in 1933 in the Pacific Ocean
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Figure 6.14 (A) Diagram of wave speed and group speed with time. (B) Frames from a video clip, selected at approximately one second intervals, after a rock is tossed into the water
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Figure 6.14 (A) Diagram of wave speed and group speed with time
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Figure 6.14 (B) Frames from a video clip, selected at approximately one second intervals, after a rock is tossed into the water
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Figure 6.15 As a deep water wave approaches shore it will begin to transition to an intermediate and then shallow water wave
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Figure 6.15 As a deep water wave approaches shore it will begin to transition to an intermediate and then shallow water wave
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Figure 6.16 (A) How two sets of waves of equal wave heights but unequal wavelengths would interfere with one another to produce a wave that is the sum of the two original waves (B)
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Figure 6.17 (A) A merchant ship in the Bay of Biscay in heavy seas as a rogue wave looms astern. (B) Photograph taken from the SS Spray in 1986 in the Gulf Stream
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Figure 6.18 Sea walls in front of homes on an eroding beach in Southern Maine
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Figure 6.19 (A) Waves refract toward the shallower water depths. (B) Viewed from above, waves will diffract around an obstruction. (C) Diffraction and refraction
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Figure 6.20 Waves that arrive at an oblique angle on a beach create alongshore current in the swash zone
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Figure 6.21 A seiche in a lake
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Figure 6.22 (A) The first waves from December 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami coming ashore. (B) Destruction left behind in Banda Aceh, Indonesia, in early January 2005
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Figure 6.23 The first ten hours of propagation of the 2004 tsunami across the Indian Ocean; the wave continued to propagate beyond the Indian Ocean and was detected around the world
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Figure 6.24 An internal wave propagating along a pycnocline
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Figure 6.25 High tide (A) and low tide (B) in the Bay of Fundy, Canada, which has the greatest tidal range in the world, exceeding 15 m (50 feet)
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Figure 6.26 (A) The distributions of types of tides around the world: (B) Los Angeles, with a mixed tide; (C) Eastport, Maine, with a semidiurnal tide; and (D) Mobile, Alabama, with a diurnal tide
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Figure 6.26 (A) Distributions of the types of tides around the world
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Figure 6.26 (B) Los Angeles, with a mixed tide
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Figure 6.26 (C) Eastport, Maine, with a semidiurnal tide
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Figure 6.26 (D) Mobile, Alabama, with a diurnal tide
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Figure 6.27 (A) Imaginary Earth with a single, uniform ocean covering entire surface. (B) Tidal currents that might be expected to result from just the gravitational attraction of the Moon as in (A)
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Figure 6.28 The directions of water motions on the surface of the real Earth under the influence of the Moon’s gravitational attraction
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Figure 6.29 The reason why there are two tidal bulges on Earth that are attributable to the pull of the moon
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Figure 6.30 (A,B) As the Moon orbits around the center of mass of the Earth–Moon pair, Earth orbits around the same point (C) creating a CF equal to but opposite to the g of the Moon
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Figure 6.31 The relative importance of the Moon’s gravitational attraction and the Earth’s centrifugal force
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Box 6B The Tide-Generating Forces, Figure A
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Box 6B The Tide-Generating Forces, Figure B
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Box 6B The Tide-Generating Forces, Figure C
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Figure 6.32 An idealized Earth rotating beneath an ocean without continents would have two high tides and two low tides
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Figure 6.33 (A) Weekly orientations of the Sun, Earth, and Moon orbital system. (B) When they are oriented at right angles, their gravitation forces are perpendicular and there are no additive effects
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Figure 6.34 Observed tides recorded at (A) Eastport, Maine, and (B) Boston, Massachusetts, for the month of July 2010
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Figure 6.35 (A) A tidal wave entering a bay. (B) Swirling a dishpan of water can make a wave that rotates around the edges of the pan. (C) Hypothetical ocean basin
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Figure 6.35 (A) A tidal wave entering a bay
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Figure 6.35 (B) Swirling a dishpan of water can make a wave that rotates around the edges of the pan. (C) Hypothetical ocean basin
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Figure 6.36 Amphidromic points in the ocean, along with co-tidal phase lines, which approximate the location of the crest of the tidal wave for each hour into the 12 hour lunar tidal cycle
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Figure 6.37 (A) Co-tidal phase lines (red), co-range lines (blue); black arrows are counterclockwise movement of the tidal wave crest. (B) Currents in the Gulf of Maine and Bay of Fundy
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Figure 6.37 (A) Co-tidal phase lines (red), co-range lines (blue); black arrows are counterclockwise movement of the tidal wave crest
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Figure 6.37 (B) Currents in the Gulf of Maine and Bay of Fundy
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Figure 6.38 (A) The Gulf of Maine. (B) The resonant frequency of a coffee cup is about 0.2 second. (C) The larger bathtub has a frequency of about 1.5 seconds; this is still quite short
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Figure 6.39 Areas of the world ocean where tidal energy is considered sufficient to make tidal power development feasible
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Figure 6.40 Diagram of tidal mixing in coastal waters, creating a mixed zone against the coast of cooler waters
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Table 6.1