Download - chapter 5 chemistry
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | ADVANCE ORGANIZER
CHAPTER 5CHEMISTRY5.15.25.3
MATTERTHE pH SCALECHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS
FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO:• Describe matter, elements of hair and structure and
behavior of atoms and bonds• Describe pH scale and values associated with water, acids
and alkalines• Identify precautions necessary for various classifications
of chemicals when working with professional products
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | ADVANCE ORGANIZER
5.1 MATTERELEMENTSCHEMICAL BONDS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | ADVANCE ORGANIZER
MATTER
SOLIDdefinite weight,
volume and shape
LIQUIDdefinite weightand volume but indefinite shape
GASdefinite weight but indefinite
volume and shape
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER
Anything that occupies space
Change in the physical characteristics of a substance without creating a new substance
When water freezes it becomes ice. It is still water, but now it’s a solid instead of a liquid.
PHYSICAL CHANGE
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER
Change in a substance that creates a new substance
A chemical change occurswhen hydrogen combineswith oxygen to form a new substance, water.
CHEMICAL CHANGE
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER
Scientific study of matter and the physical and chemical changes of matter1. Organic Chemistry: deals with matter that is living or was
alive, with carbon present2. Inorganic Chemistry: studies matter that is not alive, has
never been alive and does not contain carbon
CHEMISTRY
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER
Basic substances that cannot be broken down into simpler substances
ELEMENTS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | ELEMENTS
Use this acronym to remember the elements found in hair:
COHNSCarbon, Oxygen, Hydrogen, Nitrogen, Sulfur
Smallest complete unit of an element
COMPOSED OF THREE MAIN PARTS:1. Protons: positive electrical charge2. Neutrons: no electrical charge3. Electrons: negative electrical charge
ATOMS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | ELEMENTS
Chemical behavior of atoms depends mostly on number of electrons in the outer shellHydrogen• Simplest atomic structure• 1 proton and 1 electron• Atomic number of 1
ATOMS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | ELEMENTS
Positive ProtonNegative Proton
HYDROGEN ATOM (H)
Two or more atoms joined together by a chemical bond
TWO HYDROGEN ATOMS, EACH WITH
ONE ELECTRON
ONE OXYGEN ATOM AND ITS EIGHT
ELECTRONS
THE RESULT IS H2O
MOLECULES
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | ELEMENTS
• With an element, the atoms are the SAME• With a compound, the atoms are DIFFERENT
MOLECULES
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | ELEMENTS
Amino Acids: compounds consisting of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen
CHEMICAL BONDS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | CHEMICAL BONDS
Hair: form of protein called keratin
Hair is made of 97% keratin protein and 3% trace minerals
AMINO ACIDS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | CHEMICAL BONDS
AMINO ACIDS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | CHEMICAL BONDS
Peptide Bonds (End Bonds): formed when two amino acids are positioned end-to-end causing acid end of one to attach to amino end of another• Amino acids that create protein are linked
together by a peptide bond• Hair is the linking together of protein groupsIt’s very important not to disturb peptide bonds – combining alkaline chemicals and heat could break these critical peptide bonds and destroy the protein structure.
FOUR SIDE BONDS1. Hydrogen Bond2. Salt Bond3. Disulfide Bond4. Van der Waal’s Forces
AMINO ACIDS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | CHEMICAL BONDS
FOUR SIDE BONDS1. Hydrogen Bond
• Works on principle that unlike charges attract• Can easily be broken by heat or water • Accounts for 35% of hair’s strength due to millions
of hydrogen bonds in hair’s structure
AMINO ACIDS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | CHEMICAL BONDS
FOUR SIDE BONDS2. Salt Bond
• Result of attraction of unlike charges; the negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another
• Accounts for 35% of hair’s resistance to change
AMINO ACIDS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | CHEMICAL BONDS
FOUR SIDE BONDS3. Disulfide Bond
• Results when sulfur-type side chains join with other sulfur-type side chains
• Most important bond to cosmetology• Broken or reformed by chemical services, producing
a chemical change with lasting results
AMINO ACIDS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | CHEMICAL BONDS
FOUR SIDE BONDS4. Van der Waal’s Forces
• Based on theory that atomic groups prefer environment with other groups that have similar structures
• Not important for cosmetology services other than to know that it exists and plays a role in bonding protein chains
AMINO ACIDS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | CHEMICAL BONDS
AMINO ACIDS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | CHEMICAL BONDS
1. Hair begins with individual atoms, the smallest unit of matter
2. Atoms unite by sharing electrons tobecome molecules of amino acids
AMINO ACIDS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | CHEMICAL BONDS
3. The amino acids create polypeptide protein chains4. The ends of the amino acids bond to form peptide bonds5. The bonding of protein chains
to other protein chains makes human hair
SELF-CHECKOn a sheet of paper numbered 1-8, answer the following questions.
1. Anything that occupies space existing as a solid, liquid or gas is termed __________.
2. All of the following are elements that form the basis of hair, nails and skin EXCEPT:a. sulfurb. heliumc. carbond. oxygen
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | SELF-CHECK
SELF-CHECK
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | SELF-CHECK
3. T or F Atoms have a nucleus containing protons and electrons.
4. The chemical behavior of atoms depends mostly on the number of __________ in the outer shell.
SELF-CHECK
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | SELF-CHECK
Match the term with the best description.5. __ Peptide bond
6. __ Hydrogen bond
7. __ Salt bond
8. __ Disulfide bond
a. Negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another
b. Formed when acid end of one amino acid attaches to amino end of another
c. Hydrogen atom in one molecule attracted to atom of another molecule with negative electrons
d. Most important bond to a salonprofessional’s work
SELF-CHECKOn a sheet of paper numbered 1-8, answer the following questions.
1. Anything that occupies space existing as a solid, liquid or gas is termed __________.
2. All of the following are elements that form the basis of hair, nails and skin EXCEPT:a. sulfurb. heliumc. carbond. oxygen
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | SELF-CHECK
matter
SELF-CHECK
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | SELF-CHECK
3. T or F Atoms have a nucleus containing protons and electrons.
4. The chemical behavior of atoms depends mostly on the number of __________ in the outer shell.
Protons and neutrons are packed together tightly to form the nucleus. Electrons move about the nucleus on orbiting paths.
electrons
SELF-CHECK
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | SELF-CHECK
Match the term with the best description.5. __ Peptide bond
6. __ Hydrogen bond
7. __ Salt bond
8. __ Disulfide bond
a. Negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another
b. Formed when acid end of one amino acid attaches to amino end of another
c. Hydrogen atom in one molecule attracted to atom of another molecule with negative electrons
d. Most important bond to a salonprofessional’s work
b
c
a
d
FACE THE FACTSMATTER Defined as anything that occupies spaceELEMENTS The five elements found in the hair are carbon, oxygen,
hydrogen, nitrogen and sulfur Atoms are the smallest complete unit of an element
and consist of protons, neutrons and electrons
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | FACE THE FACTS
FACE THE FACTS Protons and neutrons located in nucleus A molecule is two or more atoms joined by
chemical bondCHEMICAL BONDS Hair is a form of protein called keratin Peptide bond forms when two amino acids are
positioned end-to-end causing the acid end of one to attach to amino end of another
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | FACE THE FACTS
FACE THE FACTSCHEMICAL BONDS Hydrogen bonds give hair about 35% of its strength Salt bonds are result of attraction of unlike charges and
account for 35% of hair’s strength Disulfide bond is most important to a salon professional’s
work since many chemical services break or reform this bond into new shape
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | MATTER | FACE THE FACTS
5.2 THE pH SCALE
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | THE pH SCALE | ADVANCE ORGANIZER
pH (Potential Hydrogen): unit of measurement that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline• Measures the amount of acid or alkali in a
water-based solution
THE pH SCALE
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | THE pH SCALE
THE pH SCALE
ACIDIC SOLUTIONmore positive hydrogen
ions than negative hydroxide ions
NEUTRAL SOLUTION equal numberof positive andnegative ions
ALKALINE SOLUTION More negative
hydroxide ions than positive hydrogen ions
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | THE pH SCALE
• Ranges from 0 to 14 with number 7 as neutral• Numbers less than seven indicate acid• Numbers greater than seven indicate alkaline
The scale is logarithmic, which means each step or number increases by multiples of 10
THE pH SCALE
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | THE pH SCALE
ACID BALANCED• Means pH is between 4.5 to 5.5 • Is the term applied to most professional shampoos
THE pH SCALE
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | THE pH SCALE
Acid Balanced
SELF-CHECKOn a sheet of paper numbered 1-7, answer the following questions.
1. T or F The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 with numbers less than 7 indicating alkaline.
2. Distilled water has equal numbers of hydroxide ions and hydrogen ions causing it to be __________.
3. An acidic solution contains more __________ ions than __________ ions.
4. An alkaline solution contains more __________ ions than __________ ions.
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | THE pH SCALE |SELF-CHECK
SELF-CHECK
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | THE pH SCALE |SELF-CHECK
Match the term with the best description.5. __ Acidic solution
6. __ Alkaline solution
7. __ Neutral solution
a. pH value of approximately 7
b. pH values less than 7
c. pH values greater than 7
SELF-CHECKOn a sheet of paper numbered 1-7, answer the following questions.
1. T or F The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 with numbers less than 7 indicating alkaline.
2. Distilled water has equal numbers of hydroxide ions and hydrogen ions causing it to be __________.
3. An acidic solution contains more __________ ions than __________ ions.
4. An alkaline solution contains more __________ ions than __________ ions.
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | THE pH SCALE |SELF-CHECK
neutral
hydrogenhydroxide
hydroxidehydrogen
SELF-CHECK
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | THE pH SCALE |SELF-CHECK
Match the term with the best description.5. __ Acidic solution
6. __ Alkaline solution
7. __ Neutral solution
a. pH value of approximately 7
b. pH values less than 7
c. pH values greater than 7
b
c
a
FACE THE FACTSTHE pH SCALE Unit of measurement that indicates whether substance
is acidic, neutral or alkaline Ranges from 0 to 14; below 7 is acid; above 7 is alkaline;
7 is neutral Logarithmic, each step or number increases by
multiples of 10 Acid balanced means the pH is in the acid range of 4.5
to 5.5
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | THE pH SCALE |FACE THE FACTS
5.3 CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICSCOSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONSSHAMPOOSRINSES AND CONDITIONERSPERMSRELAXERSCURL REFORMATIONHAIR COLORPRODUCT INFORMATION
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |ADVANCE ORGANIZER
Six classifications categorize cosmetics used in the cosmetology industry:1. SOLUTIONS2. SUSPENSIONS3. EMULSIONS4. OINTMENTS5. SOAPS6. POWDERS
COSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |COSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONS
Solution: mixture of two or more kinds of evenly dispersed moleculesSolute: any substance that dissolves into a liquid and forms a solutionSolvent: substance that is able to dissolve another substanceMixture: two or more substances that are physically combined
SOLUTIONS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |COSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONS
Water is considered a universal solvent because it is capable of dissolving more substances than any other solvent.
SOLUTIONS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |COSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONS
Mixture of two or more molecules that separate when left standing and need to be shaken before use.
SUSPENSIONS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |COSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONS
Formed when two or more nonmixable substances are united by binder or gum-like substance.
Immiscible = liquids not able to be mixedMiscible = liquids able to be mixed together without separating
EMULSIONS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |COSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONS
Perm Solutions
Oil-in-water
Cold Creams
Water-in-oil
Mixtures of organic substances and a medicinal agent; usually found in semi-solid form.
OINTMENTS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |COSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONS
Mixtures of fats and oils converted to fatty acids by heat and then purified.
SOAPS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |COSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONS
Equal mixtures of inorganic and organic substances that do not dissolve in water.
POWDERS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |COSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONS
Shampoos clean scalp and hair to remove foreign matter without adversely affecting scalp or hair.
Shampooing should be a soothing, relaxing experience, as it sets the climate for all future services.Improper cleansing allows a breeding place for disease-causing bacteria and can lead to scalp disorders and even hair loss.
SHAMPOOS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SHAMPOOS
Surfactants: cleansing agents used to remove oil from hair• Consist of two parts
• Cause oil to “roll up” into droplets, which are lifted into water and washed away
HOW SHAMPOO WORKS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SHAMPOOS
2. Oil-Loving Part (Lipophilic)
1. Water-Loving Part (Hydrophilic)
Hard water contains certain salts and metals that prevent shampoo from latheringSoft water contains small amounts of minerals and is preferred because it lathers freely
THE ROLE OF WATER
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SHAMPOOS
Two methods used in purification of water:1. Sedimentation: undesirable substances sink to
the bottom2. Filtration: undesirable substances pass through
a porous substance
THE ROLE OF WATER
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SHAMPOOS
ALL-PURPOSE SHAMPOOS• Contain low alkaline content and low concentration of
surface active agents• Do not strip color and are very mild
ACID-BALANCED (NON-STRIPPING) SHAMPOOS
• Formulated to have same pH as hair and skin and can be used on all types of hair
PLAIN SHAMPOOS• Contain high alkaline soap base and are usually strong• Not recommended for chemically treated or damaged hair
TYPES OF SHAMPOO
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SHAMPOOS
SOAPLESS SHAMPOOS• Lather without harsh alkaline ingredients• Are effective in both soft and hard water• Rinse out easilyMEDICATED SHAMPOOS• Designed to treat scalp and hair problemsCLARIFYING SHAMPOOS• Use higher alkalinity in order to remove residue such as
product buildup, dirt, etc.
TYPES OF SHAMPOO
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SHAMPOOS
TYPES OF SHAMPOO
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SHAMPOOS
ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOOS• Formulated for either dry or oily scalp • Contain an anti-fungus or germicide
LIQUID DRY SHAMPOOS
• Cleanse scalp and hair when the client is unable to receive normal shampoo
• Effective in cleaning wigs and hairpieces
TYPES OF SHAMPOO
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SHAMPOOS
POWDER DRY SHAMPOOS• Formulated for clients who are bedridden• Contain orris root powder that absorbs soil and oil as
the product is brushed through the scalp and hair• Do not apply prior to a chemical serviceCONDITIONING SHAMPOOS• Contain small amounts of animal, vegetable additives
that penetrate the cortex or coat the cuticle layer
TYPES OF SHAMPOO
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SHAMPOOS
COLOR SHAMPOOS• Contain temporary color molecules that adhere to
outer cuticle of the hair and deposit colorSHAMPOOS FOR THINNING HAIR• May contain ingredients to provide a healthy
environment for the maximum amount of hair growth
• COSMETIC APPEARANCE is luster or shine of the hair• POROSITY is amount of moisture, liquids or chemicals
hair can absorb• MANAGEABILITY is how easily a comb can pass
through hair• ELASTICITY is ability of hair to stretch and return to
natural shape without breaking
RINSES AND CONDITIONERS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |RINSES AND CONDITIONERS
• Affect mostly surface of the hair• Applied to help close cuticle and make hair
feel soft and manageable
RINSES
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |RINSES AND CONDITIONERS
VINEGAR AND LEMON (ACID) RINSES• Keep cuticle compact• Dissolve soap scum, untangle and separate
hair and add sheenCRÈME RINSES• Soften and add luster• Slightly acidicMEDICATED RINSES• Control minor dandruff and scalp conditions
RINSES
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |RINSES AND CONDITIONERS
CONDITIONERS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |RINSES AND CONDITIONERS
Penetrate deep into hair to fortify damaged areas and protect from further damage
INSTANT CONDITIONERS• Coat hair shaft and restore moisture and oils• Do not penetrate cortex or replace keratin in shaftNORMALIZING CONDITIONERS• Contain a vegetable protein • Have an acidic pH causing the cuticle to close after
alkaline chemical service
CONDITIONERS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |RINSES AND CONDITIONERS
BODY-BUILDING CONDITIONERS• Penetrate damaged hair shaft and deposit
proteins into cortex• May be used prior to chemical services to
strengthen hair
MOISTURIZING CONDITIONERS• Recommended for dry, brittle hair• Contain humectants that penetrate into hair shaft
to bind and hold moistureCUSTOMIZED CONDITIONERS• Formulated to meet special needs of certain clients• Mixing moisturizing conditioner with body-building
protein product to improve the condition of client’s hair is an example
CONDITIONERS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |RINSES AND CONDITIONERS
Allow hair designers to chemically reform hair into wavy or curly formation.
PERMS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |PERMS
ORIGINAL STRAIGHT HAIR
SHIFTING AND BREAKING
OF DISULFIDE BONDS
DISULFIDEBONDS REFORMED
1. ALKALINE WAVES (COLD WAVES)• Process without heat• pH of 8.0 – 9.5
2. ACID WAVES (HEAT WAVES)• Process with heat• Wrapped with tension• pH of 6.9 – 7.2
PERMS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |PERMS
• Main ingredient found in alkaline waves is thioglycolic acid or its derivatives and ammonium hydroxide
• Ammonium hydroxide is added to formula to shorten processing time and cause hair swelling
• Processing begins as soon as chemical is applied to hair
ALKALINE WAVES
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |PERMS
• Main ingredient found in acid waves is glyceryl monothioglycolate
• More controlled curl and less damage to hair
• Heat sometimes used to assist penetration of hair structure
NEUTRALIZER
• Main ingredient is either hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate or sodium bromate
ACID WAVES
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |PERMS
Reduce curl in excessively curly or wavy hair by changing molecular structureReforming (Relaxing) Product: holds hair in straight position while being processed; in addition smoothing or pressing action is appliedNeutralizing Step: utilizes neutralizing shampoo or lotion; reduces swelling and causes hair to be held in straight configuration
RELAXERS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |RELAXERS
Two popular types of products used to chemically relax hair:1. Sodium Hydroxide – 2% to 3% sodium
hydroxide in heavy cream base with pH from 11.5 to 14
2. Ammonium Thioglycolate – 4% to 6% thioglycolic acid; pH 8.5 to 9.5
RELAXERS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |RELAXERS
CURL REFORMATION
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |CURL REFORMATION
Service used to loosen the texture of overly curly to tightly curled hair1. Thioglycolate-based product is applied2. Hair is smoothed using back of comb and fingers3. Thioglycolate product is rinsed from hair when straightened
shape is achieved4. Curl booster is applied along with perm rods to achieve
curl formation5. When test curl shows desired curl formation hair is rinsed6. Neutralizing lotion is applied to reform (fix) curl in lasting
shape
GENERAL CATEGORIES• Nonoxidative Color• Oxidative Color• Lighteners• Developers• Vegetable, Metallic and
Compound Dyes
HAIR COLOR
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |HAIR COLOR
Oxidants (Developers): products that have ability to release oxygen, which is needed for chemical change
Oxidation: process where substance loses electron and oxygen is acquired Reduction: process where substance gains electron and oxygen is released
HAIR COLOR
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |HAIR COLOR
Oxidative colors are mixedwith an oxidant (developer) such
as hydrogen peroxide
Nonoxidative colors are used straight from the bottle
TEMPORARY COLORS: nonreactive, direct dyes that coat the surface of hair shaft• Certified colors• Accepted by government for use in
foods, drugs and cosmetics• Only last until shampooed out
NONOXIDATIVE COLORS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |HAIR COLOR
SEMI-PERMANENT COLORS: dye molecules in a solution that are able to penetrate cuticle layer versus coating• Slightly more alkaline in pH than
temporary colors• Used straight from the bottle;
not mixed with oxidants • Last through several shampoos
NONOXIDATIVE COLORS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |HAIR COLOR
LONG-LASTING SEMI-PERMANENT COLORS: use low volume peroxide to develop color molecules and aid in color depositing• Add color to hair; cannot lift
or lighten• Available in liquid, cream and gel
OXIDATIVE COLORS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |HAIR COLOR
PERMANENT COLORS: penetrate cuticle and cortex, remain in hair until removed by chemical means or hair grows out and is cut off• Use oxidation system that starts out with
colorless molecules that combine with peroxide resulting in chemical reaction that builds colored molecules
• Can lighten natural color or deposit artificial color
OXIDATIVE COLORS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |HAIR COLOR
Bleaching or decolorizing• Involves oxidation of natural melanin in hair; causes
several color changes as pigment disperses and lightens hair to new level
• Uses peroxide and alkaline product such as ammonia
• Mix with peroxide immediately before application because only then is oxidation at full strength
LIGHTENERS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |HAIR COLOR
1. On-the-scalp lighteners (oil and cream)• Use ammonia to give high lift• Contain conditioners• Mild enough to apply directly on the scalp• pH about 9
2. Off-the-scalp lighteners (powder bleaches)• Stronger and faster than oil or cream lighteners• Can irritate scalp (burns and blisters)• pH about 10.3
LIGHTENERS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |HAIR COLOR
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (H202): most common developer • Most often used strength is 20-volume • Comes in clear, cloudy,
creamy and gel forms• Has pH between 2.5 and 4.5• Requires storage in a cool,
dry place, shelf life of 3 years
DEVELOPERS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |HAIR COLOR
Less professional category of hair color; the more these colors are used the more color change takes placeHENNA• Is an example of a vegetable dye• Produces reddish highlights if
used in purest form• Allows hair to grow completely
out before any chemical service
VEGETABLE, METALLIC AND COMPOUND DYES
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |HAIR COLOR
Pure metallic dyes• Incompatible with other
chemical services• Fade into unnatural shades
depending on metal used
Compound dyes are acombination of a vegetableand metallic dye
VEGETABLE, METALLIC AND COMPOUND DYES
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |HAIR COLOR
MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEETS: contain special information about products from manufacturerAdditional information resources are:• Federal Drug Administration (FDA)• United States Pharmacopeia (U.S.P.)• International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary
PRODUCT INFORMATION
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |PRODUCT INFORMATION
• Ingredients listed on product label are in order of concentration with largest amount listed first
• More than 5,000 different ingredients are used by cosmetics industry
COSMETIC INGREDIENTS
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |PRODUCT INFORMATION
SELF-CHECKOn a sheet of paper numbered 1-17, answer the following questions.
1. T or F Surfactants are used to remove oil from the hair.
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SELF-CHECK
SELF-CHECK
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SELF-CHECK
Match the term with the best description.2. __ All-Purpose Shampoos
3. __ “Plain” Shampoos
4. __ Medicated Shampoos
5. __ Anti-Dandruff Shampoos
6. __ Powder Dry Shampoos
a. For clients who are bedridden and cannot wet hair
b. Contain alkaline, not recommended for chemically treated hair
c. Cleanse hair without correcting any special condition
d. Formulated for either a dry or oily scalp
e. Contain ingredients designed to treat scalp and hair problems or disorders
SELF-CHECK7. Which of the following rinses leaves the hair with
a soft feel by adhering to the hair shaft and is only slightly acidic?a. lemonb. cremec. vinegard. medicated
8. Products that fortify damaged areas of hair and protect against further damage from chemical services or heat are called __________.
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SELF-CHECK
SELF-CHECK
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SELF-CHECK
9. All of the following statements regarding perms are true EXCEPT:a. perms allow hair designers to chemically reform hairb. two primary categories of perms are alkaline waves
and acid wavesc. main chemical ingredient found in alkaline waves is
glyceryl monothioglycolated. main ingredient found in most neutralizers is
either hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate, or sodium bromate
SELF-CHECK
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SELF-CHECK
10.Sodium hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate are the products called __________ that reduce curl in excessively curly hair by changing its molecular structure.
11.A soft curl perm loosens the texture of overly curly hair by:a.using a low volume peroxideb.using a thioglycolate-based productc.rinsing the sodium hydroxide relaxer with disulfided.following a thioglycolic relaxer with a sodium
hydroxide relaxer
SELF-CHECK
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SELF-CHECK
Match the term with the best description.12. __ Nonoxidative Colors
13. __ Oxidative Colors
14. __ Lightening
15. __ Developers
16. __ Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes
a. Referred to as decolorizing and involves oxidation of natural melanin in the hair
b. Less professional category of hair color
c. Not mixed with oxidants and used straight from the bottle
d. Mixed with an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide
e. Most common agent is hydrogen peroxide
SELF-CHECK17.When you read a product label, the ingredients are
listed in order of their ______________.
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SELF-CHECK
SELF-CHECKOn a sheet of paper numbered 1-17, answer the following questions.
1. T or F Surfactants are used to remove oil from the hair.
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SELF-CHECK
SELF-CHECK
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SELF-CHECK
Match the term with the best description.2. __ All-Purpose Shampoos
3. __ “Plain” Shampoos
4. __ Medicated Shampoos
5. __ Anti-Dandruff Shampoos
6. __ Powder Dry Shampoos
a. For clients who are bedridden and cannot wet hair
b. Contain alkaline, not recommended for chemically treated hair
c. Cleanse hair without correcting any special condition
d. Formulated for either a dry or oily scalp
e. Contain ingredients designed to treat scalp and hair problems or disorders
c
b
e
d
a
SELF-CHECK7. Which of the following rinses leaves the hair with
a soft feel by adhering to the hair shaft and is only slightly acidic?a. lemonb. cremec. vinegard. medicated
8. Products that fortify damaged areas of hair and protect against further damage from chemical services or heat are called __________.
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SELF-CHECK
conditioners
SELF-CHECK
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SELF-CHECK
9. All of the following statements regarding perms are true EXCEPT:a. perms allow hair designers to chemically reform hairb. two primary categories of perms are alkaline waves
and acid wavesc. main chemical ingredient found in alkaline waves is
glyceryl monothioglycolated. main ingredient found in most neutralizers is
either hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate, or sodium bromate
SELF-CHECK
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SELF-CHECK
10.Sodium hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate are the products called __________ that reduce curl in excessively curly hair by changing its molecular structure.
11.A soft curl perm loosens the texture of overly curly hair by:a.using a low volume peroxideb.using a thioglycolate-based productc.rinsing the sodium hydroxide relaxer with disulfided.following a thioglycolic relaxer with a sodium
hydroxide relaxer
relaxers
SELF-CHECK
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SELF-CHECK
Match the term with the best description.12. __ Nonoxidative Colors
13. __ Oxidative Colors
14. __ Lightening
15. __ Developers
16. __ Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes
a. Referred to as decolorizing and involves oxidation of natural melanin in the hair
b. Less professional category of hair color
c. Not mixed with oxidants and used straight from the bottle
d. Mixed with an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide
e. Most common agent is hydrogen peroxide
c
d
a
e
b
SELF-CHECK17.When you read a product label, the ingredients are
listed in order of their ______________.
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |SELF-CHECK
concentration
FACE THE FACTSCOSMETIC CLASSIFICATIONS Six classifications: solutions, suspensions, emulsions,
ointments, soaps, and powdersSHAMPOOS Contain surfactants that have water-loving part
(hydrophilic) and oil-loving part (lipophilic)
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |FACE THE FACTS
FACE THE FACTSRINSES AND CONDITIONERS Crème rinses adhere to hair shaft leaving hair with
a soft feel Conditioners fortify damaged areas of the hair and
protect it against further damage from chemical services or heat
PERMS Fall into two categories, alkaline waves and acid
waves, and allow hair designers to chemically reform hair into a wavy or curly formation
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |FACE THE FACTS
FACE THE FACTSRELAXERS Reduces curl in excessively curly or wavy hair by
changing its molecular structureCURL REFORMATION Uses thioglycolate-based products to relax overly curly
hair and then perm hair to achieve new curl formation HAIR COLOR Nonoxidative colors are not mixed with oxidants and are
used straight from the bottle Oxidative colors are mixed with hydrogen peroxide
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |FACE THE FACTS
FACE THE FACTS Lightening is also referred to as bleaching or decolorizing
and involves oxidation of the natural melanin in hair Hydrogen peroxide is most common developer
used in hair coloring and hair lighteningPRODUCT INFORMATION When you read a product label, the ingredients are listed
in the order of their concentration
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS |FACE THE FACTS
LESSONS LEARNED The bonding of protein chains to other protein chains
makes human hair The pH scale indicates whether a substance is acidic,
neutral or alkaline to assist professionals in keeping the hair, skin and scalp in the best condition possible
Knowledge of the six classifications of cosmetics helps professionals understand product labels and usage directions
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | LESSONS LEARNED
SELF-TEST
CHAPTER 5 CHEMISTRY | SELF-TEST