A Practical Guide to Grooming

Catherine Slaney, Ph.D.Sheridan College

Animal Care ProgramRevised Sept 2010

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Table of Contents

1.0 INTRODUCTION

2.0 BUSINESS PROCEDURE

3.0 HEALTH CARE

4.0 EXTERNAL PARASITE TREATMENT

5.0 RESTRAINT

6.0 GROOMING PROCEDURE

7.0 EQUIPMENT

8.0 POODLES

9.0 BICHON FRISE

10.0 TERRIERS

11.0 SPANIELS

12.0 MIXED BREEDS

13.0 SETTERS

14.0 CATS

15.0 THE GROOMING BUSINESS

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INTRODUCTION

THE IMPORTANCE OF GROOMING

A well-groomed dog is not only happy, but healthy. Care of the dog's coat will greatly influence his general appearance. The skin is an organ of the body that reflects the dog's general health. If the dog is kept in good health, the skin and consequently the coat will testify to this condition.

Each breed varies in the type of care necessary to maintain a close proximity to its standard. However, basic brushing is necessary to maintain an attractive coat in all breeds. The massaging action promotes circulation of the blood and helps loosen dead skin (commonly referred to as dandruff or scurf). Vigorous and frequent brushing is particularly important when the dog is shedding. Some dogs shed once or twice annually, as the temperatures and amount of light change, but many smooth, short-haired breeds shed almost constantly. Continual brushing and grooming may be helpful in reducing the quantities of hair left about the house.

The dog groomer may often find the grooming out process rather tedious if the dog is badly matted. If the dog's owner has been well trained to regularly groom and dematt the dog, it will only take a few minutes to prepare most dogs for the bath. Thus the groomer should develop a flair for public relations in order to facilitate the job and keep the owner and dog happy.

All dogs regardless of their age or breed should have a regular grooming session established. Although a new puppy appears to have a clean and matt-free coat, it will eventually require some attention. It is far easier to establish rules of good behaviour with a puppy that has no need to object, than with a larger, older dog that is full of mats. Once the routine is set, most dogs willingly submit to the procedure.

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REVIEW QUESTIONS - Introduction

1. Describe how the skin functions as an organ. Use references. Draw a simple diagram of the main parts of the skin.

2. How does regular brushing improve the condition of the skin and coat?

3. What steps can a groomer take to make their job easier?

4. Why do dogs shed?

5. Why would this grooming skill enhance your value to a veterinarian?

6. Why do you need to practice the grooming skills taught in this course?

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CHAPTER 1

1.1 THE SKIN AS AN ORGAN

The skin is the covering or integument of an animal. It is a vital organ with a complex structure. In all vertebrates the skin consists of two layers; the epidermis, which is richly celled but relatively thin and is derived from the embryonic ectoderm, and the dermis which is thicker and tougher, of mesodermal origin and is mainly composed of fibrous, connective tissue.

The epidermis: can be divided into several layers. The deepest layer that rests on the dermis, is called the stratum germinativum or

basal-cell layer and consists of a single layer of columnar epithelial cells. Interspersed between and slightly below these cells lies a network of melanin

pigment-forming cells or melanocytes, which have many bran like, cytoplasmic extensions which act to transfer melanin pigment to deeper portions of the epidermis.

The next layer is the stratum mucosum, spinosum or prickle-cell layer, which is several cells thick, followed by the stratum granulosum which contains a granular material, keratohyal, in the cytoplasm.

The next layer, the stratum lucidum contains a lipid-resembling substance called eleidin, which acts as a barrier to the passage of water and salts.

The most superficial layer, the stratum corneum, consists of 10 to 20 layers of very flat, dead, dry, keratinized cells, which adhere to one another tightly except nearest to the surface, where they are continually shed as microscopic flakes.

There are no blood vessels in the epidermis and so it must receive its nutrition from tissue fluids.

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The dermis has an outer thin, relatively loose, papillary layer adjoining the epidermis and an

inner thick, dense, reticular layer that blends into the subcutaneous connective tissue.

Papillae carry capillary vascular loops and may also contain specialized nerve endings.

Most of the structural material of the corium consists of the fibrous proteins collagen and elastin.

The corium is well supplied with blood vessels and nerves and striated muscle extends into the dermis at certain points.

Smooth muscle is widely distributed in the corium in the form of thin bundles attached to hair follicles.

Sebaceous glands Sebaceous glands are multi-lobulated structures with short ducts that open into the

necks of the hair follicles that excrete a highly complex mixture of lipids, called sebum, which diffuses upward in the follicle, impregnates the hair and surrounding horny layers of the skin to participate in forming a greasy skin surface film.

This film helps maintain normal pliability of the skin by retarding loss of water form the horny layer, delays absorption of many foreign substances and contains substances that are protective against infection.

Germinative cells surrounding the gland proliferate, and moving towards the centre of the gland - discrete droplets of lipid progressively accumulate in their cytoplasm - finally, these cells burst and liberate the enclosed lipid material.

The skin functions There are also absorptive, secretory and excretory, and respiratory functions of the

skin as it acts as a protective, sensory and body-temperature regulating system. Vitamin D is produced in the epidermis when the skin is exposed to sunshine. It acts as a barrier to physical injury and to bacteria and other biological factors.

Since it is nearly waterproof, it enables the relatively fluid body to exist in dry air, to be immersed in fresh water without becoming swollen and in salt water without becoming shrunken. The keratinized layers of the skin, which are practically inert chemically and are poor conductors of heat and electricity, also serve, together with melanin pigment, as an effective screen against ultraviolet radiation.

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1.2 THE HAIR

Hair, in mammals, acts not only as insulation from the cold but as a sensory organ.

Hair may be in the form of long, tactile bristles or vibrissae or as smaller hairs, generally distributed over the body, horns, claws, hoofs, nails and glands may be found in the skin appendages. Snout hairs or whiskers are very sensitive to touch and are particularly helpful to animals who roam in the night.

Hair filaments are dead, thin, flexible, shafts of highly keratinized epithelial cells developing within slanting tubular invaginations of the epidermis, called hair follicles.

The deepest portion of each follicle is enlarged to enclose a vascular papilla, projecting from the dermis into a bulb.

Hair is continually shed and renewed by the operation of alternating cycles of growth, rest, re-differentiation and renewal of growth of the hair follicle and its associated structures.

Claws and nails, which are considered a thickened form of the epidermis, are found in the dorsal aspect of the distal phalanges of the digits.

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REVIEW QUESTIONS – Chapter 1

1. The skin is the covering or _______ of an animal.

2. It is a vital ________.

3. The outer layer of the skin is called the ___________.

4. The inner layer of the skin is called the _____________

5. A network of ________ contain the cells that provide colour patterns on the skin.

6. The epidermis receive nutrition from _______ _________.

7. The dermis contains _________ vessels and _________endings.

8. ______glands surrounded by germinative cells secrete lipids or ______ around the hair follicles.

9. Vitamin ___ is produced in the epidermis of the skin when it is exposed to sunshine.

10. Hair serves to ___ animals from the cold.

11. Hair serves as a _______ organ.

12. Sensory hairs on the face are called ______ or _________.

13. Hair filaments are composed of keratinized ________ cells.

14. Hair can be found on other parts of the body other than skin such as __________, _________and ____________.

15. Hair grows out of the hair _____________.

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CHAPTER 2

2.1 APPOINTMENT PROCEDURE

1. Answer the telephone quietly with the words, "Animal Centre, may I help you?"

2. Explain the purpose, times and procedure of our grooming classes to the inquirer.

3. If the dog has been in before, you may check their card and update it. Make sure you get the caller's names, address, day and evening phone numbers, the breed of dog, sex, age and name.

4. Ask when the dog was last vaccinated and note the date on the card.

5. Be able to give directions to the College, the parking lot, the closest doors and the Animal Centre.

College - on the S.E. corner of McLaughlin and Steeles

Parking Lot – First lot to the right when entering the college. Clients must go to security booth and inform them they are dropping off /picking up an animal.

Animal Centre - B196 –clients must enter through doors closest to the animal centre across from the student centre. They are not allowed to walk animals through the college.

6. Double check by summarizing the information regarding the appointment. i.e. “Your appointment is for Wed., Sept. 1st at 10:00 a.m. and ROVER should be ready to be picked up at 12:00.” Appointment times are scheduled ½ hour before the start of a lab session. Pick-up times are scheduled ½ hour after the end of a lab session

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7. Inform the owner that someone will be calling a day or two before the appointment to remind them.

8. If there is any change to the appointment, the owner should be informed immediately by the person who perceives the change. CALL THE CLIENT and reschedule the appointment. Apologize for the change and explain the circumstances. Record the new appointment and confirm it as usual the day before.

9. Some clients may have to bring their dogs in early and pick them up later. The person making the appointment MUST make sure someone is available to admit or discharge the dog – either a person on Animal Centre Duty or a person on Clean-up Duty for that day.

10. The phone number for the Animal Centre is (905) 874-4301. If a call is made within the College, the extension is Ext. 4301.

Sheridan College Animal Centre - Grooming

Record

Surname ____________________ First Name_________________ Phone Home _____________

Address _________________________________________________ Bus. ______________

Email ______________________________________________

Breed ____________ Age ______ Sex _____ Colour_______ Name _________

___________________________________________________________________________

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2.2 ADMISSION PROCEDURE

1. Admit the dogs one at a time.

2. Make sure the paper work is ready to be processed before the dogs arrive. This is usually done by the students on Animal Centre Duty.

3. All dogs should be suitably restrained, either on the end of a short lead, crated or held in the arms of the owner.

4. Confirm that the client is scheduled for an appointment by referring to the Grooming Appointment binder.

5. Record/ update information about the dog or owner on the Grooming Record. Include vaccination information and any medical issues.

6. Make sure you understand EXACTLY what the owner would like you to do. Make sure the owner understands EXACTLY what you can and cannot do for the dog. This requires that you check the animal completely for any matting or other coat conditions. If in doubt, check with the instructor.

7. Put the dog away in a CLEAN kennel or run with a fresh bowl of water and a blanket. Identify dog with a kennel card.

8. Owners must be given a written ESTIMATE of the grooming charge for their dog. Refer to the estimate sheet posted on the board in the reception. If in doubt, check with instructor. Ask owner if we are permitted to walk their animal while in our care. Make a note of this on the consent form. Once this information is completed, have the owner sign the Consent Agreement before they leave.

9. Place your slip lead on dog. Remove their collar and lead. Hang on numbered

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hook board in reception and properly identify.

10. Inform the owner when the dog will be ready to be picked up.

11. All paperwork for the dog should be placed on a clipboard and hung on the hooks behind the entrance door to the Animal Centre.

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2.3 CUSTOMER RELATIONS

1. Make sure you know exactly what the owner wants done with his animal before he leaves and do your best to please him. However, do not make promises we cannot keep. If in doubt about an owners request, consult with instructor.

2. Find out what time the owner wants the animal ready and do so. If you find you will be late call the owner and give a definite time when the animal can be released.

3. If the style the owner wants cannot be done because of the coat condition, do your best to explain why we cannot accommodate their request and suggest a compromise. Ensure that the owner is aware of the possible end result prior to their leaving.

4. Let the owner know that the estimate they were given could change dependent upon the degree of difficulty we have in completing their individual animal.

5. When returning the dog to the owner, try to explain a reasonable schedule of maintenance at home.

6. Let the owner know when it is recommended they bring their animal back for his next grooming. Some people may even prefer to make an appointment at that time before they leave.

7. When greeting the owner, always know the breed of dog you are going to groom even if it is a mixed breed.

8. Always call the customer by his name.

9. Ask the owner the dog's name and use it thereafter when speaking to the owner.

10. If during the grooming session the animal suffers an injury such as a nick from

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the clippers or scissors, clipper burn or a cut nail quick, inform the owner. They will appreciate your honesty and the warning of possible consequences more than a nasty surprise.

11. Do not go into great detail about all your little difficulties with their dog. These confessions are rarely appreciated and in most cases are usually considered a reflection of your own inadequacies.

12. Never appear frightened of the dog. Remove him as quickly as possible from the owner's presence. Usually they will settle down and not cause much further trouble without the protection and security of their owner. Never drag a dog away from its owner. If a dog seems to resist going with you, ask the owner to leave first.

13. Always refer the owner to their own veterinarian for health advice. NEVER diagnose a health issue.

14. Try to refrain from reprimanding a dog in front of its owner. They will not be very responsive if the reprimand is not done absolutely correctly, particularly if it is not endorsed by the owner. In fact, refrain from giving any command to a dog if you cannot enforce it.

15. Always ask the owner if the dog has had any history of health problems, such as heart weaknesses, epilepsy, hip or knee problems or allergies. Keep in mind that even healthy dogs can suffer from minor oversights. (i.e. short faced dogs such as Pekinese or Pugs may have breathing difficulty if left unsupervised under a dryer.)

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2.4 CLEAN UP DUTY

Each grooming group will be scheduled for Clean-up Duty on a rotation basis each week. When your group is on duty you MUST be available and coordinate your efforts with the rest of the group. You will lose marks if you do not show up on time and help assist your group. If the group on Animal Centre Duty has not yet had an opportunity to address the following, your group must do so.

FIRST & MIDDLE LAB SESSIONS (10-12 or 12-2)1. Be available 15 minutes before class to organize your paper work, make sure

cages and runs are clean, refill shampoo bottles, cotton, ear cleaner, etc. Check on towels, set up tables and dryers, ensure bathtubs are clean and set up.

2. Admit the dogs as they come in according to the Admission Procedure. Make sure all cages are kept clean.

LAST LAB SESSION ( 2-4)

1, Stay after the grooming session to clean, oil if necessary and put away all equipment and supplies. Take the hair out of the dryer wheels, remove the hair from the air intake on the wall, sweep, put laundry in bin, clean bathtubs

2. Make any alternate arrangements if owners need to pick up late. Someone should meet them.

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REVIEW QUESTIONS – Chapter 2

1. How do you confirm that a Grooming appointment has indeed been made?

2. What two methods of restraint are acceptable for the owner to use when bringing their dog into the college?

3. Does a client pay for parking? What is the procedure? What parking lot should a client use?

4. Can dogs be brought through the main entrance? Why? What door of the college should the owner use when bringing a dog in for grooming?

5. What is the room number of the Animal Centre? What is the phone number of the Animal Centre?

6. Who confirms the appointments each week? When?

7. What appointments are available each week?

8. When should a Grooming Record be made up?

9. What arrangements need to be made if an owner can only bring their dog in before 8:30 a.m. and cannot pick it up until 5:00 p.m.? Who does this?

10. Why do we accept dogs in for grooming to the Animal Centre? Whose animals do we accept? What animals do we not accept?

11. How do you identify a dog in the runs?

12. What form must be signed before the owner leaves the dog?

13. a) How do you identify a dog's collar and lead?

b) Where are they stored?c) What else could be done with them?d) Where are they NEVER put?

14. Why is it a good idea to know the name of the breed?

15. Why is it important to know the name of the dog?

16. What sort of things should you know about the dog before the owner leaves it?

17. Why are ALL doors kept shut at all times?

18. Where can a dog relieve itself?

19. What must we have before we can take a dog for a walk that is in for grooming?

20. What do you do BEFORE opening the door to the runs?

21. What do you need to know before the owner leaves?

22. What happens if you need to get in touch with the owner after they have left?

23. Why is it to your advantage to explain to the owner a grooming maintenance program?

24. What should you do if you feel you cannot meet the owner's requirements because of the dog's coat condition?

25. What should you do if you find yourself running late?

26. Why should you always recommend a vet's opinion if you suspect a health problem with the dog?

27. What should you NEVER do if you suspect a health problem with a dog?

28. To whose vet should you refer the client?

29. What would you expect the reaction of the owner to be if you got bitten by their dog?

30. How should you deal with a misbehaving dog around the owner?

31. How many groups are there in your class?

32. Which group are you in?

33. What do you do to the equipment before you leave?

34. How often does the floor need to be swept up?

35. Who cleans the dirty kennels and runs? When? Who cleans accidents in the hall?

CHAPTER 3

3.1 EXAMINATION OF ANIMALS IN YOUR CARE

When animals come in for grooming you should be able to conduct an efficient health examination. Although it is not your place to attempt to diagnose conditions, you should be able to recognize any health problems so that you can inform the owner and refer them to their veterinarian.

HEALTH CHECK LIST

1. Eyes - they should not be running and gooey with discharge indicating an infection. Some eyes run simply due to an external source of irritation such as dust, hair growing into eyes, distichiasis, entropea, ectropea and allergies. Usually a good clean up will solve most problems, however if a physical condition exists the animal needs to see a vet.

2. Ears - are often dirty, smelly and infected. If a chronic infection exists the owner may simply wish you to clean and pluck the ears properly so that their prescribed medication can be readily applied. If the animal has not yet been examined by a veterinarian, I would prefer that you leave the ears alone and insist the owner have them treated properly. You should also check for ticks, fly eggs and ear mites in the ears. Do not put anything in the ears that will not be removed, such as powders or ointments.

3. Anal area - check this area carefully to ensure that no infection or inflammation is present. You should not attempt to express infected or abscessed anal glands. Sometimes the rectal area is simply red and sore because of dried feces left on the skin. Gently soak these off and wash thoroughly with soap and then apply a bland ointment to the area. In this case the condition will probably heal nicely but the owner should be informed so that they will seek the advice of a vet if the condition worsens.4. Feces - Although most dogs are quite clean when caged and will try not to soil their

bedding, there are occasions when this is impossible. Some dogs develop diarrhea when nervous. This does not necessarily mean they are sick. Again inform the owner so that appropriate steps can be taken if the diarrhea persists at home.

5. Food - I do not recommend feeding an animal that is in for grooming. Most dogs will not eat from a stranger let alone in a strange place. Treats even from home are rarely eaten. You simply increase the chance of soiling once the animal is bathed and dried. The change of food can upset their system. They will not be hungry if they were fed properly at home. Thus feeding is unnecessary. I would not want someone else feeding my dog under these circumstances.

6. Water - On the other hand, water is extremely important. It should be available at all times. Dogs are nervous and get thirsty. They often sit under hot dryers and can become dehydrated.

7. Ectoparasites - Fleas, ticks, lice, mange and ear mites can often be seen on these animals. Take the appropriate steps to delouse the animal. Do it immediately so that you do not run the risk of infecting any other animals in your care. 8. Teeth - If you discover the teeth of an animal are in poor shape and need a good cleaning, recommend veterinary advice. The groomer should never attempt to scale teeth without veterinary supervision. This is a medical procedure and usually requires anaesthesia or at the very least sedation. There are commercial products like toothpaste for dogs on the market and you may be asked to sell these products or use them. This type of cleaning can easily be done by the groomer or the owner.

9. Fever - If an animal appears feverish, i.e. has a dry nose, is warm to the touch or is listless, then you should take its temperature. If an animal is sick do not subject it to a grooming session. Send the animal home, refer the owner to their vet and re-book the appointment for another time.

10. Endoparasites - You may observe signs of worms in the dogs you groom. Tapeworm segments that look like pieces of dried rice often cling to the hairs of the rectal and tail area. Round worms that look like spaghetti may appear in the feces or in the vomit of dogs. Again, inform the owner and refer to their vet.

11. Lumps - Under those hairy coats often lie surprises. Lumps and bumps of various shapes, sizes and sources may be found. Show the owner and make a note of it. The owner should have it checked by a vet. Most are not malignant tumours and need only be removed for cosmetic reasons. Others are dangerous and should be monitored and reported if they change shape, size or colour.

12. Umbilical hernias - These are small hernias that are the result of a small tearing of the abdominal tissue at the time of parturition (birth) when the umbilical cord is severed. They should be noted by the vet but are usually not repaired until more major surgery is required such as spaying or neutering.

13. Allergies - Many dogs have allergies just like people. They can be allergic to dust, pollen, grass, wool and foods. You can often see the result in the dog's coat condition. There are various shampoos on the market that will sooth the irritated skin and removed scurf. Some shampoos contain antiseptics and can be sulphur or tar based. The best approach is to first determine the source of the allergy through the process of elimination. Medication from the vet can also help. Allergy shots are even a possibility. Many dogs are allergic to the saliva of the flea and this acid plus the acid from the dog's own saliva when licking and chewing the affected area, will turn the hairs brown.

14. Vaccinations - To save yourself any unnecessary worries, you should never admit an animal to any facility who has not been vaccinated within the past 12 months. This precaution will inevitably save everyone a lot of grief. As a regular handler of strange animals you also should be vaccinated for rabies and tetanus.

15. Malnutrition - Occasionally you may get an animal in that looks undernourished. Find out what the owner is feeding the dog and refer them to a vet to have the dog checked for worms or any other abnormality. The outside condition of the dog should tell you about the inside condition. Some people just don't realize that they need to adjust the amount of food the dog eats, as it grows larger and more active. 16. Obese animals - These animals are generally the products of a good and loving home, but have obviously too much of a good thing. Sometimes they are being fed the wrong things, but often it is simply more than they need. You can advise these owners, but do it sensitively as owners often perceive their animals as a reflection of themselves. As well, if these are well-loved animals, the last thing an owner would want you to think is that they are not well cared for. Be diplomatic and informative. Giving the owner sound reasons for reducing weight will probably prove to be the best course of action.

17. Chronic Conditions - Make sure you take a thorough medical history of each animal admitted. Some will have heart problems, epilepsy, blindness, deafness and other chronic ailments. Be sure you know how to deal with these conditions before the owner leaves. Have the name and number of their veterinarian on the dog's record.

3.2 NAIL TRIMMING

Claws are modifications of the skin and are specialized for digging and traction. The outer layer is horny and may be pigmented, partially pigmented or unpigmented (white). The inner layer is the dermis (quick) which contains a blood vessel and is sensitive to pain. Normal claws extend only a short distance past the quick and just miss the ground when the dog is in its normal standing position. This allows the foot to maintain a natural compact shape. Nails, which are too long make the foot spread out abnormally and make walking uncomfortable and the gait unnatural.

When neglected nails can grow out, around and into the pads of the feet causing great discomfort and pain. In some cases infection may develop. This is most apt to happen to the dewclaws that are often forgotten under long hair. Some breeds, such as Spaniels or Lhasa Apsos grow great quantities of hair between the pads of the feet that envelopes the foot and nails so that the nails cannot scrape naturally on the ground and thus remain grow very long.

Proper nail clippers should only be used, never scissors as they can split the nails. There are several varieties of nail clippers available and serve different purposes and so should be kept on hand. The signs of nails requiring trimming include long curling nails, nails clicking on the floor, nails turning sideways and curling, nails growing into the back of the pad of the foot, the dewclaw curling back into the pad and a long hook-like, hollow projection on the end of the nail.

METHOD Use a nail clipper of an appropriate size. Guillotine clippers come in small,

medium and large sizes. Hold the guillotine clippers in an upright position so that the cutting blade is

towards you and you can clearly see what you are cutting. Grasp the dog's paw gently in the other hand, steadying any movement by pressing

your elbow into your side. Position the tip of the nail inside the cutting area of the clipper and snip quickly

but firmly. When using the scissor or plier types of clippers you will be able cut at an angle

that is convenient. Generally you want to slice upwards into the softer under part of the nail. If the nail is particularly narrow, such as in cat nails, you may find it easier to cut from the side of the nail. This sometimes eliminates the possibility of splitting the nail. Overall remember that the nail should be cut at a right angle to the angle of the quick, not simply straight off.

If there is any doubt about how much to cut off, then take only a sliver at a time. Note it is not important how short you trim the nail as long as it is not touching the ground and the animal is comfortable. By trimming the outer layer, the dog can more easily wear down the soft, inner part of the nail as it walks. It is better to leave the nail too long than to trim it too short and cause bleeding and pain.

If the nail does bleed, pressure should be applied and the dog should be calmed down. A caustic substance can be used to stop the bleeding such as Quick Stop or Silver Nitrate or a pressure bandage can be applied

3.3 ANAL GLANDS

All animals have anal glands that can be found on either side of the rectum. Originally they were meant to act as lubricators for hard, dry or coarse stools. At one point the canine species hunted wild game for food and consequently ingested a certain amount of bones, feathers, fur, leaves and twigs. Nature's way of handling this type of diet was to lubricate the excrement on the way out. Hence anal glands served this purpose. As well, each animal has a peculiar scent that is perpetrated by the anal gland. This serves as a means of identification and much elimination behaviour can be categorized as marking behaviour and is known as their `calling card'.

Today dogs live a much different lifestyle and their diet is now very civilized. They eat commercial dog food that has been thoroughly processed and therefore does not contribute to coarse stools. Large dogs still manage to create large stools that tend to press against the anal gland as they leave the body and thus benefit from any lubrication the gland can provide. Smaller dogs on the other hand usually have small, soft stools and thus do not make use of their anal glands. Consequently these glands can become full without ever being naturally expressed and should therefore be expressed by the groomer or a veterinarian.

The signs of impacted anal glands are biting at the anal region, `scooting' or dragging of the anal area on the ground, sharp yelps and whines directed towards the back end and a red, swollen and inflamed rectal area. If the area appears to be extremely painful or inflamed or even worse, abscessed, the dog should be referred to a veterinarian.

The main caution to be noted is that nature rules. Thus when the glands are expressed the body will fill them again. The more often you express them, the more often they will fill - hence a catch 22. Only express anal glands when they appear to be full, when the owner asks for it to be done (usually having noted one of the signs of impacted glands, or if the dog has a medical condition that dictates they be regularly expressed.

METHOD OF EXPRESSING ANAL GLANDS

1. Shampoo the dog's entire body first so that after the anal glands have been expressed, the substance can be washed away. The odour tends to cling to the coat so be sure to wash and rinse thoroughly.

2. Pull the tail up so that the rectum protrudes slightly, thus making the glands more accessible.

3. Place the side of the thumb on one side of the rectum and the middle finger on the other side.

4. Gently squeeze the glands, expressing them from the inside to the outside.

5. Anal glands can also be expressed internally by inserting a finger into the rectum and squeezing one gland at a time. You should use a rubber glove for this procedure. This method is recommended in cases where the dog is very sensitive.

6. Make sure your hand or a paper towel is shielding the excretion so that unnecessary cleaning is avoided.

7. If in the bath, rinse and re-shampoo the area to ensure complete removal of the substance.

3.4 CARE OF THE EARS

All dogs that come in for grooming MUST have their ears checked and cleaned. Different breeds require different methods of care.

Dogs with long pendulous ears like Spaniels and Setters are notorious for developing ear infections, particularly yeast infections as there is little air circulation inside the ears. Yeast is a bacterium that is present under normal conditions in the ears, but flourishes in dark warm, moist areas. What better place than the deep pockets of one of these ears? These dogs are often in water, they rub their ears on the wet grass or snow or they simply absorb moisture into the inner hairs of the ear, creating a moist environment.

Infected ears become sore and inflamed. The skin looks red and a strong, rank odour is present. As the infection takes hold, copious amounts of dark, waxy substances build up in the ear canal. A veterinarian should examine the ear in order to determine the problem. If any doubt remains, a culture can be taken and the specific bacteria involved can be detected so that an effective antibiotic can then be prescribed. The ear must then be thoroughly cleaned or flushed. NOTE when adding ear medication, that the ears are normally wiped clean before each new application.

Some dogs such as Poodles, Lhasa Apsos, Shi Tzus, Bichon Frises and Schnauzers grow hair inside the ear canal. This is a by-product of the types of coats that humans have selectively bred in these breeds. The hair blocks air circulation and needs to be plucked out with the aid of an astringent powder that can help to dry the hair and allow it to be removed more efficiently. Hemostats make excellent plucking tools and can be found in various sizes as well as straight or curved styles. Only a small amount should be removed with each plucking. The finer frizzies left behind can easily be removed with the fingers. The ear is then disinfected and cleaned. Always make sure that all moisture is removed from the ear.

SIGNS OF EAR INFECTION

Most dogs will begin by scratching at their ears at the first sign of an ear infection.

Gradually this added irritation will make the condition worse and they will resort to rubbing their ears on the ground, cocking their heads to one side or whining at any touch to the area.

Some dogs will actually lose their equilibrium or show sign of deafness.

Once you detect a problem, you can actually see large amounts of dark brown, foul-smelling wax.

Blood and pus may even be present in serious situations.

Generally these dogs should be referred to a vet.

Sometimes dogs have a more or less chronic condition which has been seen by a vet, diagnosed and treated.

In such cases the groomer merely has to inform the owner that the condition has returned and to reinstate the treatment.

However, they should be warned that if the dog does not respond in a few days they should have him re-examined by the vet, in case the infection is sensitive to a different treatment.

Often owners will bring the medication to the groomer at the time of grooming.

Many dogs never have ear trouble and just a gentle cleansing once a month should ensure good ear conditions.

METHOD OF EAR CLEANING

1. Secure the dog on a table and have someone restrain the dog firmly but gently.

2. If the ears need to be plucked, add a SMALL amount of ear powder and gently pluck a few hairs at a time. Twist the remaining hairs out with your thumb and forefinger.

3. Insert a few drops of ear cleaning liquid to the ear canal and gently wipe out the excess dirt, wax and cleaning liquid.

4. Carefully swab the inner ear canal with a Q-tip being sure not to contaminate it. Work from the innermost part of the ear outwards. Never take dirt or bacteria from the outer ear to the inner ear.

5. Wipe the inside of the ear flap until it is clean.

6. Be sure not to get any water in the ear during the bath. Dry the ear with a Q-tip to be sure after the bath is completed.

Chapter 3 – Review Questions

1. How would you detect and ear infection? What would you do if you detected an ear infection?

2. What is the difference between ear mites and an ear infection? How is the treatment different?

3. Which dogs are fed in the Animal Centre?

4. What is always available in all cages or runs?

5. As a groomer can you clean teeth? How?

6. a) What kind of worms look like spaghetti in the feces? b) What kind of worms look like dried rice under its tail?

7 a) What is a sebaceous cyst? b) What is a tumour? c) What is an umbilical hernia? 8. Name the vaccinations required for a) a dog b) a cat

9. Describe the structure of the nail in detail.

10. Why does the quick get so long when the nails are not trimmed regularly?

11. Name 3 different styles of nail clippers and the specific conditions that call for them.

12. Describe another method of trimming nails.

13. Name 5 signs of nails needing to be trimmed.

14. How would you trim a cat's nails?

15. What 2 products can you use to cauterize a bleeding nail? What can be done if these products do not work? Describe in detail.

16. Describe how to restrain a dog for a nail trimming. From which side of the animal do you trim the nails? 17. Explain the purpose of anal glands and how they help a dog defecate.

18. What causes anal glands to become impacted?

19. How can you help prevent chronic problems with anal glands?

20.Describe two methods of expressing anal glands.

21. Where is the best place to express anal glands? Why?

22. Describe the structure of the ear in detail.

23. Name 3 breeds of dogs that need to have their ears plucked.

24. Name two breeds of dogs can are prone to yeast infections.

25. Describe the signs of an ear infection. What should you do?

26. What product can you use to help remove hair from the ears? What instrument do you use to pluck hair from the ears?

CHAPTER 4

PARASITES

4.1 FLEAS

Fleas are wingless, small, compact insects, especially adapted to sucking blood. Fleas are classified as Arthropoda (jointed foot). Several different genera of fleas, primarily of rodents, can transmit plague and other serious diseases to man and animals. The flea most common to dogs and cats, Ctenocephalides, meaning `comb head' does not transmit disease form dog to dog or from dog to man. The dog tapeworm uses the flea as an intermediary host and the dog is therefore infected by ingesting the flea.

Defleaing an animal is not the final answer. The flea's eggs may be laid in bedding, in grass, in the dog's favourite chair, in cars or in any other place the dog frequents. Flea sprays, soaps and powders will normally kill the live fleas that have infested the animal but new eggs will probably hatch eight to ten days later. In fact these eggs can lie dormant for extended periods of time.

Fleas do not live on people, but if an animal is not available, they will make a meal of human blood and leave a very itchy lesion. Cat fleas are smaller than dog fleas and seem to move much faster. If a dog comes in contact with an infested cat, or vice versa, the fleas will readily infect the new host.

Flea `dirt' is the dried blood that a flea excretes. It looks like bits of dirt or black pepper, usually apparent on the back of a dog. Live fleas are most readily seen on the underside of the animal, particularly between the legs. To successfully kill a flea manually, one can snap the body between one's nails, and thus put a definite end to the creature.

Flea season usually begins in August after a couple of hot, dry months. It lasts until the deep frosts. Current products are extremely effective on all life stages of the flea.

TO DEFLEA A HOUSEHOLD

1. Flea baths will kill the adult fleas on the animal at the time but do not have a residual effect. Other methods need to be taken to combat the infestation in the house and to prevent the animal from becoming reinfested.

2. Flea collars are available but have not proven particularly effective, however, if an owner wants to buy one it should be the plastic type. It should be fitted properly and the excess end cut off so that the animal does not chew on it. Yorkshire terriers and very young puppies or kittens should not wear such collars as they can be very toxic. Be sure you do not double-dose an animal by using a No-Pest strip at the same time as this has the same ingredient in it.

3. Oral treatments must be procured from your veterinarian.

4. Powders or sprays can be used but specific instructions apply to each based on the formulation of the product.

5. The woodwork, broadloom and any other areas that the animal frequents should be thoroughly vacuumed and treated with a product.

6. The final resort is professional fumigation.

4.2 TICKS

Ticks are an order of insects classified as Ixodidne and can be found on man and animals. The hard ticks have a scutum or shield which makes it very difficult to destroy them. Dogs tend to pick them up in wooded areas or sandy beaches. The simply drop onto the animal and burrow into the skin, sucking on the blood. Several diseases can be transmitted by ticks such as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever and tularemia.

It is important that the tick is killed first before any attempt is made to remove it from the skin. Usually a good flea and tick shampoo will do the trick. If this is not available, cut the body of the tick and then carefully remove the entire tick with tweezers. If the head is left in the skin it will fester and the dog will need veterinary attention.

LICE is sometimes found on dogs, particularly around the ears and head. The dog must be bathed in an insecticidal shampoo and then the dead lice must be scraped off the surface of the skin. This is very difficult if the dog is not first clipped right down. People can get this kind of lice from dogs, so it is very important that one works carefully around such infested animals.

MANGE can be found in several forms on dogs. These little animals cause a great deal of irritation to the skin. An appropriate shampoo should be used. Veterinary attention should also be sought. Work carefully and with rubber gloves as this can be contagious to people.

RINGWORM is a not actually a parasite, but rather a fungal infection. It is contagious to people and one should be wary of animals with dry or oozing round or splotchy sores. Sometimes ringworm is not very obvious, particularly on cats. If you notice any itchy soreness on your own skin see your doctor. Animals must be treated by a veterinarian with prescribed medication. Regular flea shampoos do not work.

Chapter 4 – Review Questions

1. What are fleas? Are dog fleas different from cat fleas?

2. What month of the year is the worst for fleas? Can fleas lie dormant for a season?

3. Do fleas transmit diseases or parasites? Explain.

6. What is the length of the flea life cycle?

7. What happens if a flea-infested animal were removed from its premises?

10. What is flea dirt? How can you test flea dirt?

12. Why are fleas so hard to eliminate?

13. Describe how you should bath a dog in order to remove fleas?

14. What products would you recommend to treat a flea problem? Why?

15. What is referred to as the residual effect of a flea shampoo?

16. How do you kill a flea manually?

17. Can fleas spread from a dog to a cat?

18. What should you do with the bedding of a flea-infested dog?

19. What should you do with a bed mattress that a flea infested dog has slept on?

20. What brands of flea shampoo do we have in the Animal Centre?

21. What are ear mites? How are ear mites transmitted?

22. How can you tell the difference between ear mites and an ear infection?

23. How are they treated differently?

24. What are ticks? How are ticks transmitted? What does a tick eat?

25. How should a tick be removed from the skin?

26. What can be the physical results of a tick infestation?

28. What is mange? How is mange treated?

29. What are maggots? When would you expect maggots to be a problem for an animal?

30. What do lice look like? How does a dog get lice?

31. Can people get lice from a dog? Can people get mange from a dog?

32. What is the difference between ringworm and a parasitic infection?

33. Is ringworm always obvious on cats?

5.1 RESTRAINT FOR GROOMING PURPOSES

All dogs must be restrained on a lead when on college grounds. Remove the dog’s collar and lead and replace it with your own lead. If the dog is small enough to lift it will be picked up by the Attendant and placed in a cage or run. The Student lead will then be removed. At no time is any dog left in a cage or run wearing a collar or lead. When the animal is removed from the cage or run the Student lead is again placed around the dog's neck and the dog is placed on a table. At all times an Attendant will be holding onto the dog to ensure that it does not fall or jump off the table and the lead may then be removed.

It is easiest to groom a dog if it is in a standing position. In this way the groomer can see all areas of the dog's coat and can reach around the dog easily. All dogs can be trained to stand for grooming so that it does not continue to be a chore to get the animal to stand. If a dog is allowed to lie down or sit the groomer must constantly be adjusting the dog's position and this disturbance will lead to further disruptive behaviour on the part of the dog. If the dog is standing the grooming will be completed that much faster and thus will create that much less discomfort to the dog.

When a dog is standing on the table the handler should hold the front leg just above the elbow with one hand and the hind leg just at the hock with the other hand and in this way ensure that these two feet never lift off the table. If the dog has a tendency to sit or lie down the handler can change the hand on the hind leg to support the lower abdomen. The weight of the dog does not have to be held continuously. Rather, a few finger pokes should motivate the dog to stand and if the hand is left lightly in a ready position the dog will not likely attempt to sit down on it. Of course there are times when it is easier or more convenient to have the dog sit and or lie down, but generally one should try to groom it from a standing position.

To restrain an uncooperative or biting dog the handler may have to consider a muzzle. Most dogs, once muzzled, will give up struggling and endure the procedure quietly. Great care must be taken to ensure that the dog gets enough air. The tongue should be checked for good pink colour, for any bluishness would indicate a lack of oxygen. Short-faced dogs will have difficulty breathing when muzzled. Muzzles need only be used for the part of the procedure that is provoking resistance. Muzzling is most useful when removing matts or when trimming nails. Always try to work without a muzzle first. Never use a muzzle on a tranquillized animal for they may experience difficulty in breathing.

Some tables will come with an arm and noose so that a dog can be attached to the table in a standing position. Some tables can also accommodate a second arm that can support a second noose that will slip under the dog's abdomen, forcing it into a standing position. These items are very useful to the groomer that is working alone. When working in a group, the other members should be able to perform these duties in person.

To restrain a dog securely for a nail trimming one must consider the dog's sense of security. This can be done by wrapping the arm closest to the head of the dog under and around the throat and by hooking the thumb under the collar or by grasping the skin of the back of the neck. If the dog struggles the side of the neck should be brought tightly against the handler's chest. The dog cannot choke because the elbow of the handler is bent in such a position that pressure is not placed on the front of the throat but rather on the sides. The head is held up, but the hand on the top of the neck holds the head of the dog down from the handler's face. Thus the face of the handler and the hand of the groomer are protected from bites. The other arm of the handler is wrapped over the top of the dog's body and if possible the elbow on the far side of the dog is held in position under the dog. If the dog struggles, the upper arm tightens and the handler's elbow keeps the hips of the dog tucked under and very close to the body of the handler.

The BIGGEST MISTAKE one can make is to LET GO of the dog. This simply teaches the dog that if he struggles it will pay off and he will eventually be released. The next time you attempt to restrain him he will fight that much harder since you have just rewarded him for escaping. As well he may actually bite someone or even jump off the table, hurting himself - a very costly mistake. Be firm but do not resort to yelling or physical reprimands. You must give the impression that you have control of the situation.

If necessary you may be able to lift the dog off the table by the scruff of the neck if he is small enough (just as his mom would have done). Thus you will signal that YOU ARE THE DOMINANT ONE and the dog must submit. Make the submission a tolerable one by being gentle as well as firm. Respect is gained through a demonstration of compassion and consistency. Use a minimal amount of restraint necessary for your purposes.

5.2 EQUIPMENT for Restraint Purposes

1. COLLARS AND LEADSa. Dog’s own collarb. Kennel leashc. Choke collar – various styles

2. TABLESa. Appropriate size for dogb. Appropriate height for handlerc. Sturdy and safe – lock the legs

3. GROOMING ARMS AND NOOSESa. Use with extreme caution – do not use if unnecessaryb. NEVER leave a dog unattended on the table when in a noosec. ALWAYS ensure that someone has a firm hand on the dog so that he

knows you are there for himd. Use appropriate size

4. MUZZLESa. Styles – Basket, Velcro, Tied bandaging, Snap, Face maskb. Ensure that it fits securelyc. Still need to restrain dog so that he does not peel it off with his front feet

5. SPECIALIZED EQUIPMENTa. Catch Poleb. Bagsc. Netsd. Glovese. Boxesf. screening

5.3 GROOMING AND HANDLING THE AGGRESSIVE DOG

Some dogs bite. The groomer’s job is to determine why and then what to do about it. Some bite due to poor temperament, past negative experiences, separation anxiety, territoriality, dominance related behaviours, fear of the unknown, or even just a lack of confidence in the handler. The list goes on and on. However, for our purposes there is usually much an owner and groomer can do to keep the dog from biting while being groomed. Puppy classes are highly recommended as they offer the dog an opportunity to socialize with other dogs while away from their home territory. Regular trips to the groomer at an early age will also help the dog adjust to the situation and allow the dog and groomer to get to know each other.

When a dog is presented at a grooming facility, the groomer must evaluate the dog’s temperament when the dog first enters the premises. The breed of dog can potentially indicate a dog’s response to specific situations. Telltale signs of aggression or fear can be readily assess from the dog’s body language (eyes, facial expression, head position, body movements, hair raised around neck and top of back, tail, vocalizations, etc.) If a dog shows signs of aggression or fear before being admitted the groomer can suggest that the owner remain to assist the groomer and calm the dog at least for the initial session.

On the other hand, sometimes the owner’s presence makes the dog more agitated and it is best to remain out of sight. Sometimes dogs simply feel out of control when placed behind bars but will settle down when the cage door is opened and the dog is securely fastened to a lead.

Once on a lead or on the table, these dogs will usually submit. If the dog lunges at the cage door it is probably better to allow the dog to approach the handler when the door opens, rather than going in to get the dog. The handler can remain behind the door and then slip the noose over the dog’s head as he is passing through the cage. If the dog appears to be on the attack the door should be closed securely and the dog left for the owner to retrieve.

Dogs that are not groomed every day are often prime candidates to become biters. But all groomers realize that dogs that bite still have to be groomed. Most groomers will accept dogs that bite if the owners are honest with them and particular precautions can be taken

(refrain from putting dog in cage, ask owner to pick dog up and put on the table, muzzle before putting dog in cage, extra person to help restrain the dog, have owner restrain dog for nail clipping or other aspects that will agitate the dog, etc. These dogs usually settle down when they get to know the groomer, the premises and the agenda – that it is just a painless groom and bath procedure – not a death threat!

If a dog is too aggressive for a groomer to handle safely the dog must be referred to a veterinarian for sedation. NO ETHICAL GROOMER WILL ADMINISTER ANY DRUG TO SEDAT AN ANIMAL. THIS IS ETHICALLY, MORALLY AND LEGALLY A VETERINARIAN’S FUNCTION. A sedated animal should be groomed at a veterinary hospital where it can be medically supervised. A partially sedated dog that is a biter is unpredictable. IT will still try to bite but its reflexes will be slower. Occasionally a sedative can work in the reverse and the dog will become highly agitated instead.

Dogs that should not be groomed are dogs that bite even when a groomer is not working on them. The owner of such a dog usually knows that he dog may bite but may choose not to tell the groomer. This is not fair to the groomer. These owners reveal their concern by asking, “Did he try to bite you?” If that is the case, simply call the owner and ask them to retrieve the dog. It is important that the groomer not be bitten as their livelihood depends on their safety and welfare. Reading the signs, taking the appropriate precautions and using effective restraint will ensure a safe and pleasant session for both dog and groomer.

Chapter 5 – Review Questions

1. When restraining a dog, how can one prevent the groomer from being bitten?

2. How can one prevent the dog's hind end from spinning away from the person restraining it?

3. How can one prevent the dog from biting the front restraining arm of the handler? How can one prevent the dog from biting the face of the handler? How can one prevent the dog from putting his feet over the front arm of the handler?

4. What two legs of the dog are normally sufficient to restrain when a dog is standing cooperatively on the table?

5. What is the biggest mistake you can make when restraining a difficult dog? Why?

6. How can you encourage a dog to stand and then stay standing?

7. Why is it best to train a dog to stand for a grooming session?

8. Why should a dog not jump onto the table or into the tub alone?

9. What should be removed before a dog is placed in a cage or run?

10. How could you make a dog remain standing if you were working alone?

11.Name 3 kinds of choke collars. Describe how to fit a choke collar to a dog. Why are choke collars available in different thicknesses?

12. Why is a chain lead unsatisfactory? When would it be necessary?

13. Describe how to tie a dog's mouth shut with a lead rope.

14. Describe one other type of specialized restraining equipment.

CHAPTER 6

6.1 BASIC GROOMING

TECHNIQUES

1. Table Set-Up - Use a table that does not require you to stoop or bend over, and which is sturdy enough to support the dog's weight. A variety of tables are now on the market. Some even have hydraulics to adjust the height, but of course mean much $$$! The size of the table can also make a difference - if you are working on a small dog, then a small table will mean that you do not have to reach across it and the dog has less a of tendency to move around. Use a rubber matt on top of the table if it does not come ready-made with one. Some people like to use a chair but you must be sure that you can sit high enough to be on top of the situation. You have very little control over the dog if you are working beneath it.

2. Using the Slicker Brush - When using a slicker brush do not slap the brush on the animal as the wires will scratch the skin causing abrasions, commonly known as brush burn, and possible sources of infection. Use a `soft slicker' if you are working with sensitive skin. 3. Brush out the undercoat in layers, not just the top. Work from the bottom of the dog (bottom of the back legs) to the top - always from the inside to the outside of the coat. Remove ALL matts. If they cannot be brushed or combed out, they will have to be cut or clipped out - but NOT WITHOUT PERMISSION. Make sure your instructor if aware of the situation before you cut anything!

4. Grooming the short-haired dog - Brush short-haired dogs with the grain, using a bristle brush, rubber brush or glove or a hound glove, made of horse hair. Slicker brushes can be used with extreme care, to remove undercoat and to get through thick but short coats.5. Grooming the medium-length coat - Medium-length

coats, such as Setters, Spaniels and Golden Retrievers should also be brushed with the grain. Use a slicker brush gently so as not to damage the feathers. A pin or bristle brush can also be used when the hair is not matted. In fact, some undercoat is left in strategic places for show animals to enhance their conformation. A steel comb can be used to remove undercoat and straighten feathers.

6. Grooming the thick coat - Profuse coats on Afghans, Maltese and Yorkshire Terriers will require long bristle and pin brushes. Do not break the hairs. Brush from the skin out.

7. Grooming the double-coat - Double-coated dogs such as Collies, German Shepherds, Pomeranians and Norwegian Elkhounds will require a slicker brush, a long pin brush, a steel comb and scissors or matt slicers. The undercoat must be removed in layers, damaging as few hairs as possible in the process. Mats should be removed and if necessary, cut in a lengthwise direction with the matt and gently combed out.

8. Grooming short-haired cats - Short-haired cats can be gently brushed and a rubber glove will also help remove shedding hair. A very fine steel comb will remove loose hairs.

9. Grooming long-haired cats - Long-haired cats need to be brushed and combed regularly because their hair is so fine and will readily matt. They are not very cooperative when it comes to removing matts and baths are also fairly traumatic. Some cats need to be sedated but this should only be done under the advice and direction of a veterinarian.

6.2 ABOUT SHAMPOOS

The pH of the shampoo is important, as this will affect the condition of the skin and hair. The chemical symbol pH is a measurement of the hydrogen ions in a solution - that is the acidity or alkalinity of the solution. The pH scale runs from 0 - 14 with 7 being neutral. The lower the number the more acidic the shampoo, the higher the number the more alkaline.

The measurement is logarithmical, meaning that a single step in the scale represents a tenfold step in measure. Thus, 8 is ten times more alkaline than 7; 9 is a hundred times more alkaline than 7 and 10 is a thousand times more alkaline than 7. The optimum pH for human skin and hair is 4.5 - 5.5 and the best pH for dogs (the most alkaline of other animals tested) is 6.2 - 8.6 with an average of 7.52. One can expect some variation depending on the breed, age and sex of the dog.

Maintaining the proper pH balance in the shampoo enhances its cleaning qualities and makes the coat shiny and healthier as well as protecting the skin. Very acidic shampoos can eventually dehydrated the hair follicles, damaging the fibres and causing breakage during regular grooming. Some dogs become very itchy when acidic shampoos are used since they tend to lock detergents within. Too alkaline a shampoo may affect the hair's colour molecules, trace oils and moisture content and weaken the hairs.

Special shampoos can be used for the different types of coats. Some products specialize is softening agents, while others add texture to the coat. Some are specially formulated with colour enhancer for the various colours. Optical brighteners and highlighting can add lustre and sheen to a dull coat and the bluing agents in whitener shampoos will remove yellow or gray discolourations.

Most shampoos are sold in a concentrated form, so be sure to read the label and dilute the product accordingly. Flea shampoos and medicated shampoos should not normally be diluted. Conditioners can also be watered down when applied to the bathed dog.

6.3 BATHING PROCEDURE

The bathing procedure should be a simple and pleasant experience for both the dog and the groomer. Make sure all the necessary equipment, shampoos and towels are ready and within reach. Adjust the water temperature before the dog is put in the tub.

The dog is quietly lifted from the table to the tub. There is no need to put the dog on the floor and walk it over to the tub, as this tends to just distract the dog and groomer. The water is turned on with the groomer’s fingers over the nozzle so that any change in water temperature can be detected immediately.

The water should be gently applied to the shoulder area and then moving down the body, legs and tail, wetting the entire dog. Lastly the head is wet, carefully avoiding the eyes and ears.

Shampoo should be applied to the neck area, back, tail, legs and underbelly and then lathered well. Take special care to scrub the feet and any areas of skin with flaky skin with the rubber brush. After a light rinse a second shampoo can be done on particularly dirty dogs. Shampoo is then generously applied to the head, lathering the face, eyebrows, beard and ears.

This area is then rinsed thoroughly, so that any chance of getting shampoo in the eyes is reduced. Tearless shampoo can be used around the face, especially on flat-faced dogs. If the dog is infested with fleas the head will have to be shampooed first. Finally rinse the whole body well, starting with the head.

When the dog is free of all shampoos and conditioner residue, squeeze out the excess water, then wrap a towel over the body and blot the water again. Leave the towel draped over the body and carefully lift the dog from the tub to the clean table. It is not necessary to put the dog on the floor first.

6.4 BLOW DRYING

For best results, all coats should be blow dried to allow the hair to stand away from the skin.

Use a slicker brush to gentle separate the hairs – be careful not to create brush burn.

The hairs will dry straight and separate and then the coat can be easily trimmed and finished.

Have your dryer ready and then turn it on, directing the air towards the shoulders and hindquarters.

Do not blow the air in the face at first.

Brush gently a small area at a time until the hairs are completely separated and flying in a circular motion.

The blow dryer helps remove any left over matts and undercoat, separates the hairs so that they do not matt easily next time, dries the hairs thoroughly and straightens the hairs so that they stand out from the body and can easily be trimmed evenly.

6.5 CHALKING

The purpose of the chalking is to enhance the natural colour of the dog and to add texture to the coat. For cosmetic purposes chalking and powdering can be done to hide colour faults.

In the case of predominantly white dogs, the problem of maintaining that sparkling clean appearance is solved by using white chalk as a cleaning agent. It will also help to make the feathering thicker and easier to control. Cornstarch and baby powder are the most commonly used substances in the sporting breeds. It can be found in powdered and block form and may be applied to wet or dry coats. The general practice is to use powdered chalk or cornstarch on the wet coat and block chalk or talc on the dry dog and for touch-ups. If the dog is being exhibited all traces of powder must be removed from the coat before the dog enters the ring.

For wet applications the feathering should be sponged down, using a minimum amount of tepid water and then dried with a towel. The white areas of the body should be sponged on the surface sufficiently to dampen the coat. A dusting a chalk is then applied to the feet, working it into the coat with a bristle brush, including in-between the toes to make the feet appear more compact and to the leg furnishings and underchest if the feathering is predominantly white. The chalk should be applied with the grain of the hair on the body and special care should always be taken to avoid over powdering the coloured areas. The area above the eyes can be chalked by taking a pinch of chalk between the fingers and applying it carefully while the dog's head in inclined forward and downward.

SACKING A DOG

After chalking, the dog can be `sacked up' if desired, which will help to flatten the coat. Then the dog is placed in a warm confined area until the coat is completely dry when all the chalk will be completely brushed out. If a dog enters the ring with any remains of powder it will be eliminated.

6.6 PLUCKING AND STRIPPING THE HARD COAT

The purpose of plucking is that the old, dead hair is removed without cutting it allowing fresh hair to grow in wiry and flat. The effect is that the coat will lie flat and ripply and yet may still be several inches long. This coat gives the wearer an advantage in that it will protect the dog from the cold, sharp briars or thorns and insulate it from the cold water.

This type of grooming procedure is mean for the two-coated breed with a hard, dense and wiry top-coat and a shorter growth of softer hair called undercoat. A `hand-plucked' coat means trimming with the finger and thumb, with the thumb held against the stripping tool in such a manner that a small amount of hair is taken between the finger and thumb and plucked downward or in the direction that the hair grows. The new hair will grow back in the same direction that the old hair was removed. This procedure is usually most easily done when the coat is shedding or is `full blown'. In fact, if a dog is hand-stripped or plucked it will very likely never shed and the dead hairs will already have been removed.

To be ready for a show in time, a groomer must prepare the dog by stripping it down to the skin at least 8 weeks prior to the show. Then regularly the coat must be evened-up by a little plucking. About 2 weeks before the show, the dog is plucked again, but only enough to even the coat out.

Today groomers have an advantage in that a number of various stripping tools have been developed. Three different sizes of stripping knives are needed, fine, medium and coarse. Fine knives leave the hair quite short and are used on the heads, neck and shoulders of the dogs. Coarse blades are used on the top of the back to leave as much hair as possible and the medium knives are the middle-of-the-road types. All knives should have very dull, blunt edges so that the hairs are not accidentally cut off instead of being plucked out. To test it, pluck out some hair with the knife and determine if there is more hair above the teeth than there are roots below the teeth which would indicated that hair has been cut. Furnishings can also be plucked with the fingers to preserve the colour and texture.

Finally rub the dog's skin with baby oil to soothe any irritation and then bathe in a mild shampoo. This type of coat is normally not bathed, as this tends to soften the coat, so a bath at this stage of the grooming is a good idea. Towel dry with the lay of the coat.

6.7 THE CORDED COAT

This is a coat that is basically matted into thick cords all over the body of dogs such as Pulis and Komondors. These coats tend to retain stains and odours and are extremely hard for the average pet owner to keep. Each cord must be carefully pulled apart reaching right to the skin. The coat is then shampooed and rinsed with a squeezing action. It is never rubbed, brushed or combed.

The fact that only a corded Komondor can now be exhibited at a dog show should lead to our seeing more well-groomed representatives from that breed. The Puli may be shown either in brushed or corded form. At one time the Poodle was also shown in a corded coat, but today is not allowed in the ring in this style.

Chapter 6 – Review Questions

1. Why would regular grooming make a dog happy?

2. Why would you consider the skin an organ of the body?

3. How does grooming promote the circulation of the skin?

4. Why do you need to worry about the inside of the dog in order to make his coat shiny?

5. Why does grooming reduce shedding?

6. What two weather factors affect the rate of shedding?

7. Why does regular brushing make a dog's coat shiny?

8. Why is grooming hard on your back?

9. Why do you need to know the breeds of dogs recognized by the CKC?

10. What are the 7 groups of dogs recognized by the CKC?

11. How do you identify a mixed breed of dog?

12. What happens if you use a slicker brush too hard?

13. What is the difference between the undercoat and the topcoat?

14. When would you use a rubber glove to groom a dog?

15. Why is a table important for the groomer?

16. Why should a dog never be allowed to jump off the table?

17. Why should a dog never be allowed to jump into or out of the tub?

18. Why must the undercoat always be removed BEFORE the bath?

19. How does the pH affect the skin and hair?

20. What is the proper pH for humans? What is the proper pH for dogs?

22. What happens if human shampoo is repeated used on a dog?

23. What would happen if too alkaline a shampoo were used on a dog?

24. How can a dirty, yellowed coat on a white poodle be enhanced?

25. Name the brands of medicated shampoo in the Animal Centre and describe the conditions when their use would be appropriate.

26. Why do show people chalk their dogs? What reason would a regular groomer have for using chalk or powder on a dog?

28. What is does it mean to `sack' a dog?

29. What is the difference between `plucking' and `stripping' a coat?

30. What would indicate that a wire-haired dog's coat was `full-blown'?

31. What instrument is used to strip a hard coat? What effect does stripping have on a wire-coat? What effect does clipping have on a wire-coat?

34. What is a `corded' coat? How would you dry a corded coat?

36. What two breeds can be shown in a corded coat? What other breed used to be shown in a corded coat?

CHAPTER 7

7.1 BASIC GROOMING EQUIPMENT

NAIL TRIMMERS

Guillotine Type - As the dog's nail is inserted into the opening the handles are pressed together and the blade slices from the bottom to the top of the nail.

Scissors Type - These trimmers are used much like scissors. The underside of the nail is softer than the upper so the slicing of the nail should begin at the underside. This style is great for getting around nails that have grown full circle and sometimes even into the pads of the toes. Dewclaws are often found in this state.

Safety Nail Trimmer - This is a scissor style that has a safety stop behind the blade. If it is not needed it can be moved to the side.

A-2 Clipper Attachments - Various attachments can be added to the Oster A-2 clippers with a special adaptor. The nails are then filed down as with an electric sander.

Electric Nail Groomer - This tool has a rotating head that grinds the nails down. The speed of these rotations actually cauterizes any bleeding that might occur.

Nail File - A nail file can be used to shorten nails or to simply file off the rough edges. Itshould be used from the top of the nail downwards.

SCISSORS/SHEARS

Blunt-tipped - These can be used for vulnerable areas such as around the eyes, ears, toes and nails. They are especially useful on nervous dogs or on puppies.

Barber Shears - These are long and straight and taper to a point. they are usually used for finishing work and overall scissoring. They come in a variety of lengths.

Curved Scissors - These are used for shaping rounded areas such as pompoms and topknots. They are also useful on specific areas of various breeds.

Thinning Shears - These are very useful in creating a natural look when trimming a feathery coat. Matts can also be thinned out nicely so that with further brushing holes in the coat can be undetected. Blending of different lengths can be done with thinning shears.

How to Hold Shears - Shears must be held properly in order to control tiny fluctuations in the hand movements. The thumb is put through the larger of the two openings. The ring finger is placed in the other opening and the baby finger is placed on the open shank. The index finger will be placed under the shank of the shears to support the weight and steady the tool. Fingers 1,4 and 5.

Duplex Dresser - This tool is used much like a stripping knife but it has a razor blade within the safety edges that cuts the hair leaving a feathered look. It is used on soft silky coats to achieve a more natural look.

BRUSHES AND COMBS

Slicker Brush - This brush is used to remove undercoat and to straighten hair when blow drying. It comes in a variety of sizes and styles. Soft slickers are also available for sensitive skins.

Bristle Brush - This brush is used on short-haired dogs to removed shedding hair and the undercoat. It also helps bring out the shine of a clipped or short coat.

Pin Brush - This brush is used on long coats to finish and smooth the look. It will notremove matts.

Matt Splitter - This tool is used like a comb to split matts. It does not necessarily removethem so the coat must still be brushed as combed as usual. It helps keep thick coats thin. This tool is more useful for the owner than for the professional groomer.

Rake - This tool is used to rake through thick, long or matted coats. It does not thoroughly remove matts but does help break up the coat so that a comb and brush can be used more effectively.

Hound Glove - This is a special glove that is used to flatten a coarse or short coat and make it look sleek. Its bristles are made from pure horse hair.

7.2 CLIPPERS

The Oster A-5 Small Animal Clipper has traditionally proven to be the most durable and efficient clipper but the Andis is currently taking over the market. Other brands come and go, but generally they jam and wear out or burn out very quickly. The Oster A-5 and the Andis can be readily purchased in most pet supply outlets and blades and parts can be easily obtained. The different blades can be snapped on and off. This type of clipper uses an armature motor and therefore is powerful enough to stand up to daily use.

Some of the older style clippers like the Oster A-2 Small Animal Clipper require tone to use screwdrivers to attach the various blades. This can be quite tedious. Some less expensive brands of clippers are a vibrator type and are not very powerful. There is usually only one blade that is used with an adaptor to vary the length of hair removed. Some pet owners use this type for an annual clipping of their own dog. They would never stand up to daily use by a professional groomer and the results would not be up to the standards of professionals.

Thus taking the time and money to select the best equipment will likely prove the most satisfying in the long run. If proper care is exercised these clippers will last for years. They should be serviced at least once a year, depending on the amount of use. The blades will have to be sent out for sharpening on a regular basis. Frequent lubricating and cleaning of the blades will increase their cutting efficiency.

7.3 CLIPPER BLADES

Various sizes of clipper blades are available and are usually interchangeable with other makes of clippers. Although one generally settles on a few favourites, it's nice to have a selection. Generally speaking, the lower the number, the coarser the blade. However, there are a few exceptions.

#4 - This blade is used when the owner does not want the dog `stripped'. Long and short teeth alternate on this blade. It is used on the bodies of light coloured or thin- coated poodles. It is also used on coarse-coated dogs such as West Highland Terriers, Cairns, Irish Terriers, Airedales and Sealyhams. It should simulate a `plucked' look.

#4F - This blade leaves the hair about as long as the #4 but achieves a more even and finer texture. The teeth are all the same length.

#5 - This blade is very similar to the #4 and is often used on the bodies of white or light coloured poodles. It leaves the hair long enough to cover pink skin and is less irritating than the finer blades.

#5F - Similar to the #4F but takes hair a little shorter. #7 - This blade is used on the bodies of black and dark coloured poodles and is a good choice for thick coated dogs. It tends to be sharper than the #4 or #5 and can cut under matts. It can be well used to strip O.E.S.D.s, Afghans and Spaniel Crosses.

#7F - This blade is a real favourite for it can give a nice smooth look to a soft coat and still leave a bit of hair. It works well on Spaniels.

#8 1/2- This is an all-purpose blade and leaves the hair just a little shorter than the #7F.

#10 - This blade is the most useful one for it can be used on all breeds. It does however take the hair quite short. It can be used on the tender areas of the body that might be sensitive to the clippers and clipper burns, such as the belly, ears and under the tail. It is used on the face, feet, tail and belly of the white or light coloured poodles.

#15 - This blade can be used instead of a #10 but takes the hair just a little shorter. It is best used on the face, feet, tail and belly of the dark coloured poodles.

#30 - This blade is only used on show poodles. It takes the hair very short.

#40 - This is a surgical blade and removes all hair.

#18 - This blade is sometimes found among older collections and is basically almost the same as the #7.

#5/8,6/,7/,8/8 - These blades are made for the feet of toy poodles. They are very narrow and manoeuvre easily between the toes.

SKIP TOOTH - This blade has every second tooth long and two short in-between. It leaves the hair a little shorter than a #7, but the disadvantage of leaving lines on a smooth coat.

BLADE SHARPENING

The clipper blades should be sharpened regularly. Dull blades, improper sharpening and excess tension will force dull blades to inefficiently, causing the clipper to overheat, slow down and reduce motor and blade cutting life.

7.4 OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE CLIPPERS

CHANGING THE BLADES

To Remove: Stop the motor, depress 'Blade Lock Latch', push the blade away from theclipper and slide off the tongue.

To Replace: Turn the motor on, insert the blade completely onto the tongue and then snap the blade into lace. It is not necessary to operate the blade latch.

FOR BEST RESULTS

1. Always clip with the hair grain unless specified by the style.

2. Feed the hair slowly. Give the clippers a chance to feed and cut the hair. You will get better results and save time.

3. Should cutting blades refuse to cut, examine the cutting surfaces of the upper and lower cutting blade units. If hair or foreign matter is present, remove it, for the blades cannot cut through it, even if they are sharp.

GREASING

Add very little grease and only when necessary. Over-greasing can cause leakage and reduce the operating efficiency of the clipper. Check once a month by removing the metal nameplate. Then remove the Link and Gear from the Gear Post. Add the grease until it appears out of the top and bottom holes on the side of the Gear Post. If the grease does not come through, clean the holes. DO NOT FILL THE CAVITY WITH GREASE. Now replace the Link and Gear and add very little grease to the teeth of the Gear and Linkage.

OILING

Cutting Blades: Apply oil several times daily to maintain a light film on the mating faces of the blades and the tension spring guide.

Clean blades cut better and last longer. To clean, detach the cutting blades from the clipper and without separating, slide the upper blade half way to either side. Do not remove the tension spring fastened to the lower blade by two screws as that may change the cutting tension. Brush well with kerosene, coal oil or clipper spray and repeat on the other side. Wipe dry.

If the blades should become jammed and difficult to put back into place, separate them by lifting the spring with the fingertip just enough to slide the upper blade into position. Run the motor when re-attaching. Before cutting hair apply a thin film of oil or clipper spray.

Oster Spray Lube and other commercial products can be used liberally throughout the clipping procedure. This is a combination of oil and solvent. Spray directly on the teeth of the blades while the motor is running.

Motor: Oil only if the motor develops a small 'squeal' due to a dry bearing. Add only one drop of oil in the bearing oiler near the front at the upper right. MORE OIL IS HARMFUL. Do not use a detergent oil because it drives the oil out of the bearing and does not provide adequate lubrication.

CARBON BRUSHES

Check periodically. Unscrew the slotted out caps on the sides of the clipper. Remove the round cap by applying a slight pressure to the side with a fingernail and remove the brushes. When the square section in reduced to the same length as the round section, the carbon brushes should be replaced as they will cause damage to the armature.

7.5 CLIPPER BURN

Clipper burn is a condition that many dogs suffer after a clipping. It is a skin irritation, feeling much like a burn and cannot necessarily be seen by the groomer at the time of the grooming, nor can it likely to be seen by the owner. However by morning, if left untreated, the dog will very likely have scratched and chewed an enormous area in an attempt to relieve the irritation. Consequently a little problem becomes a big problem.

Every successful and competent groomer on occasion has had an experience where a few days after grooming a dog it develops an extremely itchy, moist, scabby area that drives the dog and the owner crazy.  These skin sores are often called Hot Spots. Hot spots (also called Moist Eczema) result from trauma to the skin surface either from a clipper blade scratch or from

contact with a hot blade.

A true "clipper burn" is a skin lesion that can occur due to a hot clipper blade contacting the skin. 

A  Clipper Abrasion is an actual scratching of the skin surface from holding the blade at the wrong angle to the skin or from using the wrong sized blade. 

The most common site for this problem is along the cheekbone and on the cheek. Hot Spots (moist eczema) require repeated cleansing and often oral antibiotics to hasten its resolution. Be especially careful with the clippers around the cheeks, it's just possible the sharp points on the blades are creating tiny scratches that become irritated or infected, then the dog scratches the area compounding the skin trauma and shortly after that you get a call from the owner! This condition should be checked by a veterinarian. And don't be discouraged if you loose a client because of "clipper burns"...  whoever they take the dog to next has had their share too!  You won't know when it happens, but you'll find out a few days later.

Clipper burn is cause by a number of factors:

1. clippers too hot

2. clipper blades dull

3. pressing the teeth of the clipper blade too hard onto the skin

4. going over and over a particular area

5. clipping a dirty skin area

6. using too fine a blade

7. going against the way the hair grows

8. not using the cooling and lubricating spray on the blades

9. brush burn will create a condition

10. Hot spots can result from inadequate rinsing, too.  If any shampoo is not rinsed

away completely and remains in contact with the skin for an extended period of

time, a local skin infection can result.  The solution:  Rinse thoroughly and dry the

entire skin and coat before sending the dog home.

If you suspect that a dog you have clipped might potentially suffer from clipper burn then you should:

1. tell the instructor

2. cool the skin with cold water

3. make sure the dog is rinsed thoroughly after the bath

4. apply an ointment to the area

5. do not contribute to the irritation by over using the brush

If you suspect the dog may have experienced some skin irritation you must tell the owner

so that they will be prepared to take the necessary action. If the dog does indeed have clipper burn, the owner MUST take the dog to the vet and have it treated with anti-inflammatory medication. This could be in the form of injection, ointment or tablets. If the owner waits until the next day the damage will already be done. Some dogs even need to wear an Elizabethan collar (or bucket with hole in the bottom). This is placed around the neck and prevents the dog from biting at the inflamed area. The back feet may also have to be bandaged so that the dog cannot scratch himself raw.

If proper precautions are taken the skin will heal relatively quickly from the initial burn and these treatments can be circumvented.

Chapter 7 – Review Questions

1. What type of brush is used to remove undercoat?

2. What type of brush is usually used to blow dry a dog?

3. Why type of brush would be safe to use on a Vizsla?

4. Why type of brush would be used to `finish' an Afghan?

5. When would a rubber glove be useful? When would a rubber brush be useful?

6. When would thinning shears be used?

7. What is the difference between a stripping knife and a duplex dresser?

8. When would you use curved scissors?

9. Which three fingers do you use to hold your scissors?

10. What is a matt splitter? What is a rake?

11. What is a hound glove?

12.What kind of clippers do we use in the Animal Centre?

13. The coarser the blade, the ________________________(longer or shorter) the hair.

14. The higher the number the ________________________(coarser or finer) the blade.

15. What number of blade would you use on the belly of a dog?_________________

16. What is the difference between the #7 and the #7F?

17. When is a #30 blade used?

18. When is a #40 blade used?

19. When is a #5/8 blade used?

20. What should you do if the blades get too hot?

21. What are the two main ingredients in a cooling spray for clippers?

22. Describe how you would oil your blades after usage?

23.When would you grease the clippers? Where?

24. When would you oil the clippers? Where?

25. Explain how you would attach a blade to the clipper.

26. Explain how you would remove a blade from the clipper.

27. How can you tell when your blades need to be sharpened?

28. What is clipper burn?

29. What steps can you take to prevent clipper burn?

30. How is brush burn caused?

31. What is the treatment for clipper burn?

32. Why is this a real problem in the grooming business?

CHAPTER 8

POODLES

8.1 HISTORY

The Pudel (Canis familiaris aquatius) is considered a `water dog' from Germany. Today it is known as the national dog of France, the Caniche (chien canard) or `duck dog'. This breed was used extensively for retrieving in water and as gun dog. Through selective breeding the finished appearance and coat have been achieved. Note the similarity in coat type and texture to the old water spaniels and retrievers. The fancy Continental and English Saddle trim originated as efficient sporting styles that served to keep the vital organs and joint areas warm with hair. The rest of the coat was shaved off so as not to inhibit the dog when in the water. As well, Poodles were also at one time shown in a corded coat although this is not allowed today.

This breed is bred in three different sizes. The Standards (over 15 inches at the withers) and Miniatures (between 10 and 15 inches at the withers) are found in Group 6 (Non-Sporting) and the Toys (10 inches or less at the withers) are found in Group 5 (Toys).

The Poodle is usually very intelligent and sensitive and can be taught to be extremely cooperative during grooming sessions. They are happy, friendly, bouncy dogs and if handled properly rarely give the groomer much trouble.

These dogs are clipped and groomed in a variety of styles. The choice depends on how much time and effort the owner can spare on the daily grooming procedure. Dogs that come in matted should be trimmed short in order to aid the condition of the skin, avoid unnecessary tugging on the coat and skin and to make life easier for the owner, the dog and groomer. People who like to see their dogs long and fluffy should be responsible for keeping them that way.

8.2 CLIPPING THE POODLE

THE BODY

1. Use a #10 blade on white poodles as this blade does not trim too closely, thereby decreasing your chances of clipper burn. White poodles usually have pink skin, so leaving a little hair will not make them look so bare. As # 15 blade is fine on a black dog, as they have black pigmented skin and it is less sensitive to clipper burn. Older dogs with thin coats may look better trimmed with a #10 as their hair sometimes thins a little and they can be a little on the bony side.

2. To hold the foot steady you may want to rest the elbow of your restraining arm against your waist or even on the table. When you are first learning to clip you should engage an assistant to restrain the dog for you.

3. Start at the bottom of the back feet. This gives you a chance to find out how the dog is going to behave before you get too close to the teeth! The back feet are less sensitive than the front feet and therefore are easier to trim. This will give you and the dog an opportunity to get used to each other.

4. Clip the underpad in a "V" shape going in both directions until you have cleaned the bottom of the foot.

5. Starting at the top of the back pad trim against the way the hair grows - upwards about ¼ to 1/2 of an inch depending on the size of the dog. DO NOT OVERDO IT.

6. Turn the front of the foot and starting at the nail, trim against the way the hair grows - upwards until you are even with the trimmed hair at the back of the foot. Trim the entire front of the foot evenly.

7. To clip between the toes, you may use a #5/8 blade in order to get into the small recesses. Start at the nail and using the edge of the clipper blade, trim upwards without

cutting the webbing of the foot. Work along one toe at a time.

8. When finished the foot should be very tidy with no stray hairs around the nails. Use scissors to trim these until you become more experienced and can clean a toe completely with the clippers.

9. Work as quickly but gently as you can so that the clippers do not become too warm. You do not want to burn the skin by irritatingly going over and over it. Make each stroke count.

THE FACE

1. With the #10 or #15 blade start at the ear and trim against the way the hair grows towards the corner of a the eye, parallel to the table. This line should be no higher than the eye or you will cut too much from the bottom of the topknot and the final shape of the head will look too round.

2. Trim the rest of the face working under the chin and around to the other side. Trim down from the corner of the eyes and over the muzzle. Starting at the tip of the nose, trim up the muzzle in order to get the hairs growing in other directions. Using the corner of the blade, clip an inverted "V" between the eyes, going no higher than the top corner of the eye.

3. Trim down the neck in the direction that the hair grows creating a "V" shape. The tip of the "V" should stop at the breast bone, but his may vary depending on the conformation of individual dogs.

4. Trim the inside of the ears where they meet the face.

5. If a moustache is to be left, trim only the top of the muzzle with the clippers. The moustache should be shaped later with the scissors during the finishing stage.

6. When the dog is ready to be finished, the topknot may be scissored. Scissor the sides of the topknot straight up from the cheeks. Trim the front and back and the sides above the ears in a vertical shape as well. Only after the sides are trimmed do you scissor the length of the topknot by rounding the edges. The topknot should be evenly rounded in all directions.

7. The ears should be neatly trimmed so that the topknot blends in nicely and the ears appear to lie flat and close to the head.

8. The top edges of the ears may be trimmed and the ends evened up. The ears should

appear as long as possible and should not generally be shortened unless specifically desired.

9. The moustache is shaped to suit the face of the dog. Generally the hair on the lower jaw is trimmed to about 1/4" so that when the dog opens its mouth to pant, there is no hair hanging out. The edges of the moustache are rounded neatly. A dog without a moustache is said to have a Clean Face.

THE TAIL

1. The tail is measured from the base to the tip. At the 1/3 mark, the hair is clipped against the way it grows towards the base of the tail, evenly in all directions. To avoid irritating the rectal area, clip in the direction that the hair grows.

2. The length of the remaining hair should be twisted and then trimmed to the tip of the tail.

3. The pompom is scissored in a round shape. Make sure the longest hair is in the centre of the ball. Using curved shears can help make an even and rounded shape.

8.3 THE KENNEL CLIP

This is a good style for the country dog or the dog that is not groomed regularly. The coat is clipped fairly short all over, leaving the ears, tail and topknot long and shaped. This is an excellent choice for the matted dog or the dog with a skin condition.

PROCEDURE

1. Clip the face, feet and tail with a #10 or a #15.

2. Clip the underbelly in the direction the hair grows with a #10. Just clean the belly below the navel and the top of the inside of the thighs. This clipped area should not be obvious when the dog is in a standing position.

3. Clip the body in the direction the hair grows with a #4, #5 or #7. The legs may be left longer if desired.

4. Trim the nails.

5. Pluck and clean the ears.

6. Brush and comb out the remaining hair thoroughly.

7. Shampoo the dog with the appropriate shampoo.

8. Express the anal glands when the dog is covered in shampoo and rinse thoroughly.

9. Squeeze out the excess water and then towel dry the dog.

10. Make sure the ears are clean and dry.

11. Blow dry, brushing gently the whole time.

12. Retrim the face, feet and tail if necessary.13. Retrim the body and scissor any hairs that are left.

14. Sculpture the topknot and tail pompom with the scissors. Curved scissors are the best instrument to use here.

15. Trim the ears along the top edges and even up the ends.

16. Finish with a scent, conditioner and bow.

8.4 THE BIKINI CLIP

This style can also be referred to as the Clown or Circus Clip. Basically it is the same as the Kennel Clip except that pompoms are added to the ankles.

PROCEDURE

1. Refer to the procedure for the Kennel Clip but when clipping the body leave ample hair in the hock and ankle areas to scissor into round or oblong pompoms. The shape is more or less determined by the conformation of the dog.

8.5 THE TOWN AND COUNTRY CLIP

This style goes by a variety of names, such as the New Yorker, or the Manhattan. It is a longer style and therefore requires a fair amount of upkeep. The pattern is quite definite as the back is taken as short as the face and feet, so this style must be reclipped about every 6 weeks.

PROCEDURE

1. Clip the face, feet, tail and belly as with the basic clip.

2. Clip the body with a #10 or #15 along the lines of the pattern. Try to keep the blades going in the same direction that the hair grows. Always leave a little more pattern than you think you'll need as the area will appear smaller after the final trim.

3. After the dog has been blow dried, sculpture the pants, tail and topknot and trim the ears. Place the scissors at an angle to the pattern so that you get a bevelled edge. The pattern should not be blended from the short hairs on the body but rather try to achieve a raised effect. The overall shape should match the natural contours of the dog's body.

6.5 THE ROYAL DUTCH

This style is a variation of the Town and Country. It is clipped in the same way, but the pattern depicts a `sweater' look instead of `pants'.

PROCEDURE

1. Clip the pattern with a #10 or #15 blade. Make sure the strip down the back and around the loin is only the width of the clipper blade. You may want to use the #5/8 blade on toy poodles. Other variation can be made at this time.

2. Finish the scissoring as with the Town and Country.

8.7

THE MODIFIED TOWN AND COUNTRY

This style is very appealing because the pattern is not too definite and the coat is not too short. The body is left longer than in the Town and Country and the pattern is blended into the pants. This style grows is nicely. It is practical and easy to keep. The pants can be trimmed to the desired length.

PROCEDURE

1. Clip as the Kennel Clip.

2. Use a #5 or #7 on the body but shape around the top of the legs and blend the longer hairs.

3. Scissor the pants so that they blend nicely with the body.

8.8 THE PUPPY CLIP

As the name implies this trim is normally used on puppies. This is the style worn by a poodle in the show ring under the age of 12 months. The face, feet and tail are trimmed as usual and the coat is left long all over. It may be scissored down to a desired length. This is not a practical style for most pets as it tends to matt easily and is best suited to puppies too young to have grown their adult coat.

PROCEDURE

1. Clip the face, feet, tail and belly as the basic clip.

2. Scissor the body evenly all over.

3. Trim the topknot and tail. Note that if you have not scissored the body, you might simply need to clean up around the eyes, rather than attempting to trim the whole topknot. A trimmed topknot does not tend to match the rest of the coat.

THE LAMB CLIP?

There are many versions of the Puppy Clip –

and it is sometimes given other names such as the Lamb Clip – which refers to a clip of all one length that has been scissored. Below is another interpretation. Be careful that you understand exactly what the owner is asking for!

8.9 SHOW TRIMS

The only styles allowed in the show ring are the Continental and the English Saddle. A Puppy Clip may be used on dogs under the age of 12 months. Basically these styles reflect the original purpose of this breed of dog - to retrieve in water. Thus the dog's vital organs and joints were supposedly kept warm with long hair and all unnecessary hair was shaved so that the dog would not be unduly weighed down in the water. Since that time, Poodles have been selectively bred to enhance their appearance with an extremely full-bodied coat texture and density. These show-trimmed dogs would probably not fare too well in the water today!

THE ENGLISH SADDLE

The face, feet and tail are trimmed with a #30. The pattern is worked with the scissors so that a section is clipped from the loin and rings are made around the legs. The topknot is shaped in to the full coat of the body but this hair is not scissored. The hair on the legs is shaped to the contours of the legs and pompoms are shaped at the ankles by scissoring.

THE CONTINENTAL

The face, feet and tail are trimmed with a #30. The pattern is worked with the #30 leaving the chest, pompoms at the ankles and a pompom on the hip joint. The topknot is blended into the full coat of the body naturally. This part of the coat is not scissored. The tail is scissored into a round ball. The puffs should be 1 1/2 inches long for Toys, 2 inches for Miniatures and 3 inches for Standards.

9.1 GROOMING THE BICHON FRISE

This is an adorable little dog from the Canary Island of Teneriffe and was originally called the Bichon Teneriffe. It is of medium size and weight with a sturdy body and short legs. The head is rather large for such a little guy but the expression of the face and the trim of the hair give it an extremely appealing quality. The coat although long is fairly coarse and in most cases can be combed out readily. Since they usually have a tolerant disposition they will most often cooperate for the procedure. The black button-like nose and eyes are round and alert. For show purposes this breed is scissored to the desire shape, but pets are often clipped with a coarse blade. The head is shaped but left long and the tail, which curls up over the back is also left long.

1. HEAD

The head is should be rounded with the scissors. Even the ears are blended into this shape. The topknot is left long and should not hang over the eyes. The moustache is parted and combed down to meet a rather long beard. The cheeks are left full and the length of the ears should coincide with the hair of the cheeks and beard.

2. BODY

The body is scissored or clipped evenly all over. The legs are scissored to look like pillars and the feet are neatly trimmed to tuck in unobtrusively under the leg furnishings.

The tail is tidied but left long. The base of the tail can be trimmed a little shorter to give it a neat look where it meets the body. The underside of the tail that covers the rectum should be scissored fairly short so that faeces do not cling to it.

10.1 THE WIRE COAT

The wiry hair is not constant-growing like human hair, but grows to a certain length and then dies. It does not necessarily shed as soon as it dies, but will cling half-heartedly until it is pulled out by the dog, by brambles or in the grooming process. Unlike other types of hair, it will pull out quite easily at almost any stage of growth. It is easiest however, to strip the hard-coated dog when the coat is well `on the blow', long and open. Then a quick jerk on a tuft of hair will pull it out with ease.

Wiry hair is not the same calibre throughout its length. It is fine near the root, coarse and stiff toward the end, with a tapered, pointed tip. There is variation in individual dogs as to the length of the wiry part before the hair fines down, which is one cue to the difference in even the best of coats, and in the time elapsed before certain coats need `topping'. The fine portion as a rule is lighter in colour than the tip, although some coats are dark nearly to the skin. It is because of this change in both colour and texture of each individual wire hair, plus the increasing presence of undercoat, that a clipped coat is ordinarily softer, curlier, lighter in colour and quite unlike the normal, `garden fresh' new hair of the stripped coat. The thick, soft undercoat is completely different in makeup, never coarse at any time.

On a clipped dog, cut portions of the outer coat can hardly be distinguished from the undercoat. If a coat has been clipped repeatedly it can take as long as a year to get it back to the correct texture and colour.

10.2 THE LONG-LEGGED, ROUGH-COATED TERRIERS

THE AIREDALE TERRIER

The Airedale Terrier is the largest of terriers but one of the most gentle. This breed is normally quite tolerant of a grooming session and should not give the groomer too many problems. However all terriers tend to be aggressive with other dogs and therefore should be restrained accordingly.

In grooming these terriers the groomer should attempt to achieve a certain look. The following should be emphasized; length of head, flatness of skull, length and arch of neck, cleanness of cheek and barrel-like muzzle, flatness of shoulders and moderate narrowness of front. levelness of topline, absolute straightness of front legs, with feet small and hardly visible beneath moderate furnishings and the well bent stifles of the hind legs, when viewed from the side, and their well-muscles straightness, when viewed from the rear.

The main idea is to emphasize the good points and minimize the faults.

Other breeds that would be groomed in the same manner are the Wire-haired Fox Terrier, the Irish Terrier, Welsh Terrier and the Lakeland Terrier.

THE WIRE-HAIRED FOX TERRIER

The Fox Terrier is found in two varieties, Smooth and Wire. At one time both varieties were crossed and their standards are identical except for the coats. The Smooth provides few obstacles for the groomer. The Wire is a different story. Except for the head, the body is groomed like an Airedale.

As these terriers were bred to go to ground, after a quarry (usually a fox desperate for its life), they were bred to be fearless and indomitable. Consequently they are good tempered but have boundless energy. Again one must be careful to restrain this a breed adequately when around other dogs.

THE IRISH TERRIER

This terrier as its name implies, is considered to be of Irish descent. They were bred according to the taste of the terrier fanciers and consequently have a great abundance of `spirit and spar' and are nicknamed the `Daredevils'. The Irish Terrier has a very distinctive red coat and the preferred colours are bright red, red wheaten and golden red.

10.3 GROOMING THE AIREDALE TERRIER

When an Airedale Terrier is kept as a pet and not shown in conformation shows, most owners have little time, patience or money to keep their dog in a c correctly stripped coat. Thus the groomer must attempt to make the dog clean, neat and looking like a true Airedale.

1. Clean the neck and back with a #5, #5F, #7, #7F, #8 1/2 or a #10. The texture of the coat will determine which blade you choose. Generally speaking, the coarser the coat the coarser the blade to be used, however one should keep in mind that a shorter coat will tend to look neater for a longer period of time. Clip the hair in the direction that hair grows, down the back, sides and tail. Leave the furnishings on the legs and chest. Care should be taken to not allow the impression that the dog is wearing `bloomers'. The legs should look full but in actual fact should not be bushing at all. There need only be left enough furnishings to enhance the `square' look of the breed.

2. Use a #7F or #10 on the head and ears to give a clean square appearance. Trim in the direction the hair grows. Scissor the edges of the ears. Leave the furnishings on the face. Do not shape the eyebrows or beard but rather blend them into the desired square shape. Clean the cheeks and throat with a # 10.

3. Use a #10 on the belly. Follow the direction of the growth of hair. DO NOT clip past the navel. You should not be able to detect that the belly has been clipped when the dog is in a standing position.

4. Trim between the pads on the soles of the feet with a #10. Trim the edges with scissor neatly to the natural shape of the foot. Clip the nails, clean the ears, bath and blow dry the dog. Retrim the body of the dog with the clippers. Be sure to use no finer a blade than you used initially.

10.4 GROOMING THE SCHNAUZER

The Schnauzer is a German dog unlike the majority of the terriers that originate in Great Britain. The genetic background of the Schnauzer is probably derived from the Spaniel breeds.

The Miniature is classified as a Terrier (Group 4) and the Standard and Giant are classed as Working dogs (Group 3). All sizes have a rather different look and so are rarely trimmed exactly the same. Some variation to the following trimming procedure must be made with the Standard and Giant varieties. This style should look similar to the stripped and plucked look of the show dog. The overall impression should be one of squareness. The coat is not wiry and so must be worked with stripping and plucking to get it to grow coarse. The pet Schnauzers are usually clipped and so have a soft, silky and often curly coat. This is because the undercoat has been clipped instead of pulled out.

1. BODY AND TAIL

A #10 or #7F is usually used on the body. Start behind the ears and continue down the back following the vertebrae. Clip from the base of the tail to the tip. Do not leave a tuft on the tip of the tail. Follow the direction the hair grows and trim down the shoulders to the elbow, down the sides of the chest, leaving some furnishings and down the back of the hind legs, to the hocks. Care must be taken to leave a clearly define fringe on the forepart of the legs and curving back to just above the hock. In most Schnauzers this area is outlined by white hair. Blend the leg furnishings with the thinning shears. Trim the excess furnishings. Trim the feet neatly. Clip under the pads of the feet with a # 10.

2. NECK AND FORECHEST

Clip from the throat down the front part of the neck and forechest to a point level with the elbows. Do not dig under the chest, but rather leave the hair to hall straight down. The dog must be standing with his head up so that the chest springs forward.

3. UNDERBELLY

Using a #10 clip from the genital area to the navel in the direction the hair grows. Do not go past the navel. The top of the inside of the thighs can also be cleaned off at this time, but only a centre portion so that it does not show when the dog is in a standing position.

4. HEAD

Comb the hair on the face forward from a line just above the eyebrows to the corners of the mouth. Use a #10 and clip the head back from above the eyebrows to the base of the skull, then from the outer corner of the eye to the base of the ear, and from the corners of the mouth back to form a "V" at the throat.

The eyebrows should resemble a shade or visor extending diagonally from the outer corner to the inner edge of the eyes and divided at the stop to form two right angle triangles with the perpendicular lines on the inside and approximately parallel. Comb the eyebrows directly forward, using a long stroke to include the beard; then with the tips of the straight-edged scissors held open to the width of the inner corner of the dog's eyes, insert the points gently through the centre of the eye down to the stop. Keeping the shears parallel with the top of the muzzle, cut away the surplus hair, thus separating the eyebrows. Trim the outer edges so that they are level with the side of the head. Then cut them diagonally from the outer edge to the centre with a single stroke. A curved shear works well here. Finally cut an inverted "V" between the eyebrows. Take care that the upper hairs are a fraction longer than the lower hairs.

5. EARS

Clip the front and back of the ears with a #10. Always clip from the centre of the ear to the outer edges so as not to catch any of the ear flap. Some ears may not be cropped (the skin flap has not been trimmed off), but should still be clipped. The hairs outside the ear canal may be trimmed with the clippers or blunt ended scissors, but the inner hairs may have to be plucked (only if the hairs are very fine and soft). Terriers do not tend to appreciate this so go gently and quietly, a few hairs at a time. Cut as many as you can with the scissors and clippers.

6. THE BEARD

The beard should be combed forward and parted in the middle. Cut along a line extending from the corner of the mouth to the corner of the eyebrow. Trim the bottom beard a fraction shorter than the top moustache so it will look even with the mouth slightly open.

10.5 GROOMING THE KERRY BLUE AND SOFT-COATED WHEATEN TERRIERS

The Kerry Blue originates in Ireland. It is quite a fearless breed and because of its size and the strength of its jaws, one would not welcome a bite from this dog. The coat is quite soft and curly and therefore matts easily. Consequently this breed can present quite a challenge to the groomer.

1. Clip the head, ears and throat with a #10 and trim the throat in a "V" shape. Trim the beard and edge of the eyebrows with the thinning shears. DO NOT trim between the eyebrows.

2. Clip the back, sides and tail with a #4 or #5. Try to make the back appear shorter than the legs and the whole body to look square.

3. Scissor the front legs to look like pillars and the back legs should follow the contours of the body.

4. Leave the chest long to enhance the broadness and deepness of this part of the dog. Just trim the ends.

NOTE: The show trim requires that the body be scissored into the desired shape. Only the head and ears are clipped. This breed has a soft coat and so is not stripped or plucked like the wire-coated terriers.

10.6 GROOMING THE SCOTTISH TERRIER

This breed is quite feisty and can present the groomer with a significant challenge. They have very large and strong jaws and can deliver a serious bite. Muzzling this breed is not out of line depending on the individual dog. Although Scotties are supposed to have good hard coats, many coats have softened due to years of clipping or simply poor coat quality. Consequently they are often presented to the groomer in a matted state. Be careful.

The pet and show trims differ in that the show dog is stripped and the pet is clipped. The idea is attain a dog that looks as close to the ground as possible. Therefore one does not trim the skirt unless it is hanging on the ground. The ears and beard are trimmed and the eyebrows should resemble a visor divided at the stop to form two right angle triangles with the perpendicular lines parallel on the inside.

1. HEAD

Clip the head with a #10 making sure that you start just above the eyebrows and trim the cheeks starting at the corners of the eye and mouth. Clip the ears with a #10 but leave tufts of hair in front and behind each ear. Just trim the top half of the ears. Comb the eyebrows forward and scissor between the eyes in the form of an inverted "V" shape. Scissor the ends of the eyebrows with thinning shears. Comb the beard forward and thin out a line from the corner of the mouth to the corner of the eyebrow with thinning shears and blend this into the cheeks. If the beard needs trimming do so only with the thinning shears or stripping knife.

2. BODY

Clip the body with a #4,5,7, or 10 blade, depending on the look desired. The coarser the blade used, the longer the coat left and therefore the more the dog will resemble a stripped look. However, some clients prefer a short, neat, clipped look instead. Generally speaking, you can afford to use the coarser blades on the hard coats, but a soft coat left long often looks messy. Only clip the top of the back and the entire tail. Trim the sides only to the widest part of the body so that the skirt hangs down from that point. Again this line can be varied depending on the preference of the owner, the conformation of the dog and the state of the coat.

10. 7 THE SEALYHAM TERRIER

This breed is clipped similar to the Scottish Terrier except for the head. The face is trimmed smooth with a # 7F, 81/2, 9 or 10, including the ears. The eyebrows and beard are brushed forward together and the eyebrows are timed close to the outside corner of the eye. The lower beard is left long, however most pet owners will choose to have it trimmed in line with the top beard.

10.8 THE WEST HIGHLAND

TERRIER AND CAIRN TERRIER

These are very attractive and happy little breeds, both originating in Scotland. Their coats are supposed to be hard and wiry but many pet quality dogs have softer coats.

The show dog is never clipped and any tidying that my be necessary is done with a stripping knife. The head should be shaped so that it looks completely round when seen from the front and resembles two soup plates when seen from the sides. The upper half of the ears are picked off and the lower edges trimmed. The throat should be trimmed closely.

1. Use a #10 blade to clean the top half of the ears, just the tips. Do not dig into the coat on the head.

2. Use a #4 or #5 to trim the neck and the top of the back and around the entire tail. do not rim down the sides lower than the base of the tail. If the coat is soft it is best to brush and comb the undercoat out first. This allows you to clip a smoother pattern without taking too much and making the coat look choppy. 3. Trim the belly and inside of the thighs with a #10.

4. Clip the soles of the feet and trim the edges with scissors.

5. Blend and trim the rest of the coat with the thinning shears. Never use scissors as this gives too much of a blunt cut appearance.

11.1 GROOMING THE SPANIEL

Most of the spaniels are found in Group 1, the Sporting Group. However, some of the smaller and more unique varieties may be found in the Toy and Non-Sporting Groups, Groups 5 and 6 respectively.

There are two basic types of spaniels, land spaniels and water spaniels. Generally, the land spaniels have more coat and shorter legs. The water spaniels tend to be longer in the legs and have a more feathery coat.

The Cocker Spaniel is differentiated into American and English. The American is shorter in height and length of body and has a dense, soft coat. They are usually solid in colour. Although very popular as pets and good with their own families, the groomer is sometimes challenged by a snappy temperament and a matted coat. The English Cocker tends to be a little more even tempered and its coat is not usually as dense as an American, but more like a Springer Spaniel.

The show trim is very attractive and can be done on any spaniel coat that is well cared for. It is longer and fuller than the pet trim but more difficult to manage on a daily basis. The dog’s back is not clipped but instead the hair is encouraged to lie flat and lay several inches long. The object is to make the coat look neat but leave the overall appearance as natural as possible.. Thinning shears and a duplex dresser are used for this purpose, as they allow the groomer to blend the trimmed hairs nicely. The body is often `sacked, that is wrapped with a damp towel to ‘set’ the coat in place and make it lie flat. The skirt is left as long as possible and only the ends are neatly trimmed when necessary.

The same technique is used to trim the head and ears for the show trim and the pet trim. To emphasize the prominence of the forehead, the hairs are left a little longer, just above the stop and blended into the shorter hairs on the top of the head.

METHOD

1. THE HEAD

Using a #9, #10 or #7F blade, trim from the tip of the nose, up the muzzle, in the direction the hair grows. Trim over the top of the eyes and up the cheeks, leaving a triangular area between the eyes above the stop. These hairs are later blended with thinning shears so that the hair only emphasizes the stop. The dog should not look like it has an obvious topknot, nor should it appear to have bangs. The chin should be trimmed very closely, especially along the lip line. The clipper should be run lightly against the way the hair grows. Trim under the throat, and down the front of the neck, to the point of the breastbone, leaving a "U" shape. Be wary of clipping against the lay of the hair as the coat may appear to change colour. The lay of the hair changes direction at the edges of the "U" on the throat.

The head and face should be short and neat, but the blade used will depend on the texture of the coat. A #9 or #10 blade will leave a sleek, tidy look, but a #7F blade will blend a thin coat neatly into thicker hairs on the neck. Run the blade over the top of the head and across the cheeks in the direction of the lay of the coat. The base of the ears, both inside and out, can be trimmed with a #10 blade. Sometimes it is advisable to clip the entire inside of the earflap to increase air circulation, remove excess hair and discourage a build up of moisture and bacteria, the prime ingredients for an ear infection. The top third of the ears should be cleaned off into a "V" shape, which will highlight the close set of the ears. The hair on the end of the ears should be left as long as possible, with only the tips lightly scissored.

2. THE BODY

The choice of blade for the body will depend on the thickness, texture and condition of the coat. Use a #9 or #10 for a smooth look. A #7F can be used if the groomer is careful to clip evenly. This blade produces an attractive appearance leaving a nice covering of hair. A #7 can be used on a thick, coarse coat to produce a more natural look. Be sure to confirm the owner’s preference before experimenting.

Clip, down the top of the neck and along the centre of the back to the tail, using the vertebrae as a guideline. Try to make this line as straight as possible, following the exact lay of the coat. Although it is difficult to do this in one continuous stroke, there should be no marks left that indicate a stop-start technique. Working from the base of the tail back towards the front, trim the sides, skimming down to the widest part of the barrel. This usually tends to be level with the base of the tail, which can be used as a guide. Sometimes the longer hairs need to be tidied with thinning shears so that they do not puff out at the sides.

Clip between the pads on the soles of the feet with a fine blade. A #10 is a safe bet, but a closer trim can be had with a #15, #30 or #40.. Trim the edges of the feet with scissors so that they lie directly under the legs and do protrude in front. Be sure to remove all matts on top of and between the toes but DO NOT simply dig them out with scissors. Rather take the time to dematt the knots with a comb and brush, and then trim the hairs evenly with thinning shears to leave a natural, soft look. Although spaniels are well known for their big, floppy feet, wet and muddy wads through the house do not impress many homemakers. It is best to trim the hairs of the feet to conform with the normal size of the foot for the hair will inevitably grow quickly. Be sure to adjust the finished look and size of the foot to the conformation of the dog.

12.1 GROOMING THE SPOODLE OR COCKAPOO

This is a very common mixed breed that often requires clipping. It usually has an abundant coat of various lengths, textures and colours. Generally this breed can be trimmed to resemble a poodle, terrier or spaniel depending on the owner's preference and the conformation of the dog.

As a rule, only a pure bred poodle suits a true poodle trim with clean feet and face. Most Poodle crosses look best in a `terrier' trim of some sort.

1. HEAD

To make a flat head with eyebrows and a beard one would use a coarse blade to clean the top of the head and ears. Some dogs look better with a topknot and long ears. If the ears are left long, they should be neatly blended into the hair of the head. The inside of the ears should be cleaned and any excess hair should be plucked from the ear canal. The rest of the head can be trimmed with the coarse blade from the corner of the eyes to the ears and down the muzzle from the corner of the lips to the throat, leaving a beard or moustache. Another option would be to leave the whole head long and just scissor it into the desired style.

2. BODY

Using the same blade trim the body in the direction the hair grows. If preferred the legs can be left longer to resemble the `pants' of the poodle or the furnishings of the terrier. The body could also be scissored into the desired shape if it is in good condition. This finished look would resemble the puppy clip.

The tail is usually clipped clean if it is short. One could leave a pompom instead. If the tail is long, a trimmed plume usually looks nice. Some owners prefer the tail be left naturally long.

13.1 GROOMING THE SETTERS ENGLISH, IRISH AND GORDON

All setters are found in Group 1, the Sporting Group. They come in the three varieties; the English from England, the Irish from Ireland and the Gordon from Scotland. They are `bird dogs' and have been bred to have gentle mouths but have excitable, gamey dispositions. Consequently they are quite friendly but often a handful on the table.

Generally one does not think of setters as a breed that requires clipping. However, their feathers and heads often become rather messy with wispy hairs. When clipped in the essential areas, they look clean and crisp.

1. HEAD

Clip the head, ears and throat with a #10 or #7F in the direction the hair grows. The indentation between the supercilliary arches must be thoroughly cleaned out. The "U" at the throat should not extend as far as the sternum. It should be approximately 4 to 6 inches long. The ear should be clipped clean down the top 1/3 to enhance the low, flat ear set and five a `long' impression.

2. BODY

The body may be thinned with thinning shears or a duplex dresser. It can be carded to remove dead hair and woolly undercoat and even thinned lightly with a coarse clipper blade. The thinning shears must then be used to blend in the various levels of coat. Always follow the contours of the body.

Trim the back of the hocks with the thinning shears or clip with a #7F. Trim the straggly hair from the front part of the forelegs with thinning shears or a stripping knife. Trim the bottom of the feet with a #10. Comb the hair up from in between the toes and scissor it level with the top of the foot. The tail should look like a plum. Use thinning shears to taper it gently to a point at the tip. Remove the surplus hair from the top with thinning shears or a stripping knife.

USING THE RAZOR COMB (DUPLEX DRESSER)

Unlike the plucking technique used for stripping the harsh coats of the terrier breeds, the duplex dresser is used to CUT the soft, silky coats of other breeds. The knife should be held as if thumbing through the pages of a book. A small amount of coat can be taken up under the thumb and the displaced hair clenched between the thumb and knife. Using a rolling wrist motion similar to the action used to core an apple, the hair is tugged towards the groomer’s body, thus cutting the coat. As this is done, part of the hair will slip under the thumb. This will have the effect of graduating the coat into tiny layers so that it will lay flat.

CATS

14.1 GROOMING THE CAT

Although cats are particularly meticulous animals they still require a certain amount of grooming attention from their owner. If owners would keep up this basic care very few cats would ever need to see a professional groomer. Just like the dog, the regular grooming enhances the coat and lustre, removes dead and loose hair and flaky skin. In fact, frequent brushing and combing will remove the hair that a cat would normally swallow simply by

licking their own coat. This would greatly reduce the problem of hairballs, balls of hair that form in the cat's stomach. Gentle and regular grooming sessions at a young age will enable the cat to become accustomed to this type of attention. This one to one time is a form of `quality time' the owner could be spending with their cat. Obviously this sessions also would provide a good opportunity to note any irregularities like fleas, skin problems, tumours or growths, cuts and ear problems.

14.2 EQUIPMENT

Combs: The comb required for cat grooming should have fine, tapered teeth that are spaced close together. A static free comb is best for this very fine hair.

Brushes: A natural-bristle brush is recommended for cats, especially long hairs. The best models have tufts of bristles that are graduated in length for deep penetration through the hair. Synthetic bristles case hair breakage and excessive static electricity. A rubber brush is useful on the short-haired cat, especially for polishing the coat or removing dead hair. A fine wire slicker helps to remove dead hair and light tangles.

Nail Trimmer: Although the regular dog nail clippers can be sued on cat nails, they do tend to split with this tool. Better for cats is the human nail clipper. The nails can be clipped sideways and thus eliminate the tendency to split.

Powder Brush: A soft bristle brush can be used when powder-packing white and light-coloured long-haired cats.

Soft toothbrush: To clean the hair under the eyes of Persians, Himalayans and other long hairs when it is stained.

Cornstarch or grooming powder: Pack the powder all over the back and any dirty or greasy area. If time permits you can wrap the cat in a towel for 24 hours and then brush out completely.

14.3 GROOMING THE SHORT-HAIRED CAT

Short-haired cats are very easy to groom. There are two types of short-hairs; those with a single coat and those with a double coat. The short-haired single coat is glossy and fine in texture and lies close to the body. Some of the breeds with this type of coat are Siamese, Burmese, Korat, Havana Brown, Bombay, Colourpoint Short-hair and Oriental Short-hair.

The short-haired double coat is composed of two sets of hair: longer guard hair to give the coat its colouring and a dense undercoat to provide warmth. Some of the breeds with this type of coat are the American Short-hair, Abyssinian, Manx and Russian Blue.

Regular brushing or a gentle hand massage will loosen the dead hair. If there is a great deal of shedding moisten your hands lightly and stroke the coat backward (from the tail to the head) to help loosen it. Don't forget the underbody and legs. Finish by stroking, combing or brushing the coat from head to tail in the natural direction of its growth. Spray the hair lightly with coat conditioner or coat dressing. Stroke the fur with a chamois, silk scarf or piece of black velvet to polish the coat. The goal is to make the short-haired single coats appear glossy and slick and the short-haired double coats look plush.

14.4 GROOMING THE LONG-HAIRED CAT

Daily combing and brushing is essential for long-haired cats or at least 3 times a week. Long hairs should be combs first and then brushed. use the medium-spaced side for the hair on the cat's head and legs. Before you begin you can spray the hair lightly with coat conditioner or coat dressing to reduce static electricity or sprinkle a little grooming powder onto light-coloured cats. The correct technique is to place the teeth close to the skin and comb upward to lift out all the dead hair,

remove mats and tangles and straighten the undercoat. comb the facial hair, paying particular attention around the base of the ears. After you have finished combing, use the natural bristle brush to remove any remaining dead hair.

14.5 POWDER PACKING

Powder-packing is a method of cleaning white and light-coloured cats instead of bathing. The cat should be thoroughly groomed first. Spread a towel and pack the coat with cornstarch or grooming powder, using a powdered sugar shaker. Use your fingers to separate the hair. Use a small soft-bristle brush or toothbrush for the facial area, taking care not to get it into the cat's eyes, to irritate the tear ducts or its nose or to inflame the nasal passages.

Black and dark-coloured cats are never powder-packed. Instead, their coats can be cleaned by shaking cornmeal into the hair and then brushing it out.

14.6 BATHING THE CAT

Cats that are regularly groomed may never need to be bathed, however if the cat gets dirty, smelly or infested with fleas a bath may be required.

Fill the sink with a few inches of warm, soapy water. Add a rubber mat, soft towel or a slanting window screen so that the cat does not slip in the bottom of the tub. Get all your equipment ready before you start as you will need both hands once the cat is in the tub. The cat should be thoroughly brushed and combed and all tangles removed. Put some cotton in the ears and some mineral oil in the eyes if you don't use tearless shampoo.

Most cats are happier if you start at the back end first, but if the cat has fleas, you must start at the head. We the cat all over and pour shampoo over the coat, lathering and squeezing the fur. Talk quietly and reassuringly and move slowly. Hold the cat down by the shoulders and the hips so that it doesn't jump up into your face. Clean the face and ears with a washcloth and tearless shampoo and remove stubborn stains under the eyes with a soft toothbrush. Sometimes a second shampooing is required for particularly dirty animals. Empty the sink before the final rinse and using warm water and either a spray attachment or a cup, rinse the forehead and down the neck and back towards the tail. A little white vinegar in the rinse will help remove any remaining grease. Squeeze the excess water and blot the hair with a towel. Use a blow dryer to fluff dry the hair.

14.7 HAIRBALLS

Daily combing and brushing helps to retard the ingestion during self-grooming sessions of dead hair that can form into hairballs. Cats spend nearly 30% of their waking time grooming themselves. During self-grooming the loose, dead hair sticks to barb-like, backward-projecting filiform papillae on the cat's tongue and because of the backward angle of the bars, the hair is easily swallowed by the cats. Usually it passes through the digestive system, but in periods of excessive shedding, hair accumulates in the stomach and forms into a ball several inches wide. Some cats will normally cough up hairballs but once a large mass passes from the stomach to the intestines, it cannot be regurgitated. If the mass cannot pass through the intestinal tract, constipation and impaction will occur. Treatment consists of an enema or mild laxative to help lubricate the mass, along with a fast of about 24 hours. If the hairball does not pass normally it may have to be removed surgically.

Hairball medication in the form of petroleum jelly flavoured with malt can be administered about 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon place on the cat's nose or front paw, where it will be promptly licked off and swallowed.

14.8 SKIN PROBLEMS IN CATS

STUD TAIL

Some cats acquire the condition of stud tail that is a waxy secretion at the base of the tail. It occurs when the sebaceous glands near the base and top of the tail secrete a dark, oily substance from the pores that causes the hair to become greasy and discoloured and to smell rancid. Although it occurs in neutered males and females, it is most often seen in breeding males. If the condition is ignored, the exudation will irritate the skin, damage the hair follicles and eventually cause a thinning or permanent loss of hair.

Cats affected with stud tail should be bathed frequently. It is not necessary to shampoo the entire cat, just the discoloured tail area. Rinse thoroughly, pat dry and sprinkle the area with a little fuller's earth, cornstarch or medicated powder, making sure the granules get deep into the damp hair.

BLACKHEADS OR FELINE ACNE

Occasionally during the regular grooming session you may notice dark specks that resemble blackheads on your cat's chin, known as feline acne or chin pyoderma. It occurs in certain cats when dirt or food particles clog the pores. Blackheads appear in the early stages; if the condition is neglected, pustules and small cysts often form and the entire chin area may become swollen and infected. It is most common in short-haired cats. To treat, wash the area with an antibacterial soap and water. Scrub gently with a soft toothbrush and rinse well. you may pat a little cornstarch or rubbing alcohol onto the chin to ensure dryness. Rubbing alcohol or human acne cleaners may help to remove the blackheads.

COAT RUSTING

Coat rusting is a brownish-red stain on the ends of the hair caused by dampness, food stains, too much sunlight or excessive licking. Commercial products can be purchased to reduce this discolouration.

THE GROOMING BUSINESS

WHERE TO FIND THE GROOMING PROFESSION

1 - The Established Shop2- The Kennel3- The Pet Shop4- Veterinary Clinic5- New Business

TYPES OF EMPLOYMENT

1 - Self-Employed2- Salaried3- Commission4- Piece Work5- Equipment Status6- Freelance7 - Part-time vs Full-time8- Owner/Manager9- Specialization10- Other sources of income

CHOOSING A LOCATION and SITE ANALYSIS

1- Research the market.2- Research the competition3- Use a shop4- Use your own home - possibly convert and renovate5- Rent/Buy/Build6- Highway and street access7- Parking8- Zoning Restrictions9- Gas/Hydro/Water/Sewer10- Sprinklers/Fire Safety

FINANCING

1- How much can you make? Working Capital. How much do you need to borrow?2- Check your rent, utilities, insurance, retail sales stock.3 - Loan payments4- Project your expenses and inventory5- Set your prices

INTERIOR DESIGN

1- General floor plan and construction2- Type of flooring/ceiling, walls, cupboards/closets/reception3- Plumbing/Electricity and outlets4- Windows and doors5- Bathing area6- Cages/Kennels/Runs7- Storage area8- Tables and set up

PUBLICITY

1- Name/Sign/Logo2- Advertising media/How often3- Services - i.e. pick up and delivery4- Policies 5- Uniforms6- Code of Ethics7- Employees8- Telephone9- Sales10- Business cards/appointment cards11- Coupons/Gift Certificates12- Bags13- Education/Speaking engagements

SCHEDULING

1- The appointment book.2- Appointment procedure3- Admission and release procedures4- Holidays 5- Hours and days of service6- Reminders7- Report cards8- Filing system9- Customer service