harper's bazar new york de septiembre de 1924

# ?

Ayuntamiento de Madrid

L I N C O L N

H----------------,d

r V

Even a superficial acquaint' ance w ith the Lincoln is sufficient to create a dominant impression o f distinc

tion and individuality.

L I N C O L N M O T O R C O M P A N YD ii'is ion 0/

F O R D M O T O R C O M P A N Y

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Tiffany & C o .

J ew elry Pearls S ilverware

Quality-A T radition

M a il In q u ir ie s R eceive Pr o m p t A t te n t io n

Fifth Avenue & 37 - St r e e t N e w Y o r k


H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R J o

Hosiery

Style N o . 355 shown above is to be had in a great variety o f colors. It is sold in leading stores everywhere a t .......................................................... $ 1 . 9 5

Style N o. 255, a similar stocking o f service weight silk for those w ho prefer slightly heavier hose, is to be had at the same price . . . $ 1 .9 5

) “ O'* K. Inc.

Harpu'^fi Ba&ftr Sopiarabcr. 1924

H A R P E R S B A Z A R is publlabed montbJy at 119 TV. 40tli St., N ew York, by iQternationol Maguaiue Com pany, inc. Printed InU. S. A , Yearly subscription price. S4.00. Entered as aecon<I class matter M ay 4th, 1901, at the post office, New York, N , Y „ under the act o f M arch 3rd, 1«70.

Vol. L lX N o. %Ayuntamiento de Madrid

J o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4

jftankUn (mon & Co.F i f t h A v e n u e , 37th and sStii Streets. N c w Y o r k

< fE t i> R m m l e u

(P a ta u Design Pending)

T H R E E - P I E C E J M O D E EM o d e l 2 2 2 — A n e w l o n g - c o a t su it o f w o o l s u e d e c lo t k , in r u s s e t , n a v y b lu e , c r a n - b e r r y r e d , g reen o r b la c k w i t b sm a rt b a n d in g o f J a p a n ese m in k f u r o n c o l la r , cu ffs a n d fr o n t o f c o a t . T b o stra ig h t lin e d ress — a sm a rt c o s tu m e in it s e l f , h a s a lo n g tu n ic o f c h e n il le c h i f f o n in h a rm o n iz in g to n e s , a n d th e c o a t lin in g is b o r d e r e d q q w it h th e sam e f a b r i c . O O .^ ^

T h e 1\Teul> R r a m le y l Y n'BBS^ P a ten t ’ Design G ranted by the U* S , P a ten t Office^

O f K a s h m i r j e r s e y

M o d e l 2 2 6 — A y o u t h fu l t w o -p ie c e m o d e l o f k a s h m ir je r s e y w it h a sm a rt s t itc h e d d e s ig n o n th e o v e r b lo u a e w h ic h f o l l o w s the P a r is fa s h io n s o f b u tto n s b y p la c in g on e a t e v e r y c r o s s in g . P le a t e d s k ir t on b o d i c e t o p . I n n a v y b lu e w i t h r e d o r s e l f s t itc h in g s , h e n n a w i t h n a v y b lu e , g reen w it h b r o n z e o r C o p e n h a g e n ^b lu e w ith ta n . J U . ^

Chartje AccounU SoLiciled

I n t r o d u c i n g

F o r M a d e m o i s e l l e

( ] - f l o 2 0 y e a r s )

FIi e M eii?

E U

Registered in the U . 3. Paten! Office

r O K F a l l

A N D \ \ ^ i n t e b

P a t e n t P e n d i n g I n T h e

U . S . P a t e n t O f f i c e o n

B r a m l e y D r e s s , C o a t

A N D S u i t D e s i g n s . O u r

R i g h t s " W i l l B e F u l l y

E n f o r c e d .

W o r n b\j M i s s K a tb ly n M a r fy n

W T 'n b y f f ifls s D oro th y S lon e

P ra m li-it F a S H IO N S A R E E X C L U S IV E W i T H

F r a n k l i n S im o n & Co., a n d t h e D e s i g n s A r e P a t e n t e d a n d U n c o p i a b l e

T i l E - N S E E R r a m i e y r ~ ! o a t(Patent Design Pending)

N a t u r a l m u s k r a t f u r

M o d e l 2 2 4 — O f fin e q u a lity w o o l s u e d e v e lo u r in b r o w n , ta u p e , r u sse t , g reen o r b la c k . T h e la r g e c o l la r , d e e p c u ffs and. w i d e f r o n t f a c i n g s o f s e l e c t e d n a t u r a l m u sk ra t fu r a r e a s sm a rt as t h e y a r e lu x u r io u s . S ilk l in e d a n d w a r m ly in te r lin e d . 7 8 .^ ®

J l lo d e V y s ia — 'RrnmleU H a t o f f e l t a n d v e l v e t in b la c k a n d sm a rt c o lo r s .

M o d e l — P ranilpil P o m p o n H a t o f d u v e ty n in b la c k o r c o lo r s . 1 5 .* ^

M o d e l y s S n — Pramlpq H a t o f fe lt an d v e lv e t , f e l t b o w a ts i d e . 1 2 . 7 5

E n tire Contents C opyrighted, 1924, b y F ranklin S im on . & C o., Inc.


H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

Paris and smart New York are choosing

B L A C K C R E P E S A T I N

MODELS ILLUSTRATED

COME IN MISSES’ SIZES

H toZOYRS,

for early Autumn wear in town

&

Paris

Two models at 55.00■WITH THE NEW METAL EMBROIDERED CHINTZ TRIMMING

The flounced model—center—65.00

IB & egt & C o .Fifth Ave. at 35th St.—N. Y.

London


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4

i

BONWIT TELLER L ,CQcSpedal^ (S/iop^^ Ori inationA

HFTH AVENUE AT 38^“STREET. NEW YORK

81— Frock o f satin crepe in

black, navy blue or brown. Pearl buttons at front. Ecru

batiste net collar . 4 8 .0 0

82— Coat-frock o f radio faille in black, navy blue, brickdust

orbroivn. Fastens across front

to the side o f hips . 6 8 . 0 0

83— Tunic frock o f K asha over black satin— the Kasha tunic

o f walnut, green or rust ties

10 side . . . . 5 2 .0 0


H A R P E R ' S B A Z A R f o r

P A P IL L O N :N o t one, M o or three— but fo u r o f the made's newest mannerisms this fla t crepe

fro ck offers to Mademoiselle. A long tunic! ca p p ed M arabou banding! A waterfall jabot! A n d contrasting chiffon trimming edged with gilt braid on both tunic and sleeves! I n tan and brown, all brown, copper and black, royal blue and black, sizes 14 to 20 inclusive, $39.50.

V A L Y R IA :I f one be in one’s 'teens and may risk defining one's girth— by all means wear a gay-colored, wide suede belt! N ot in aeons has P aris been so enthusiastic over one note. On this Bengaline silk frock the belt repeats the predom inant color o f the wool p la id trimming. I n brown with tan plaid, navy with green, black with red; sizes 1 4 to 20 inclusive, $39.50.

L A U R IE L :B eyond the debutante agef Slip into this

fa il le silk coat dress with its year-conceaU ing lines and p eer into the m irror again. The opened fro n t , guarded by buttons, reveals a braided while crepe and black satin slip, and satin is again repeated fo r collar and cuffs. In black and white, navy and tan, black and copper, brown and tan; sizes 3 4 to 44 inclusive, $39.50.

ALCESTE-.The newest o f silks— the heavily corded Bengaline— has ju s t arrived to fashion this coat dress f o r M adame. The front, with its metal embroidered rever, allows a graceful surplice effect. A fluff o f Duch- esse lace outlines neck an d wrists, while buttons and loops add a smart finish to the slashed sides. I n black, brown, navy and copper, sizes 34 to 44 inclusive, $'39.50,

A braham & Straus In c .Brooklyn, N. Y ,

L . S . A yres & C om pan yIndianapolis, Ind.

L . Bam berger & C o . Newark, N. J.

B ullock ’ sLos Angeles, Cal,

T h e D a y to n C om p an yMinneapolis, Minn,

T h e E m porium San Francisco, Cal

W m . F ilen e ’ s Sons C om pan yBoston, Mass.

B . F orm an C o .Rochester, N. Y .

© 1924 by R- R- A,

S T U N N I N G F A L L F R O C K S F O R B O T H S I D E S O F ' ^ T W E N T Y ”A ch ic litt le “ garcon n e” fro c k ? A m od el m o re respectfu l o f years? Y o u m ay choose fo r yo u rse lf!

In th e B arb ara L e e se lection fo r S ep tem b er are fro ck s w h ich reveal you th at its best and others w h ic h con ceal the lines o f th e m ore m ature figure.

In each is em bodied th e new est o f F a i l conceits, in im itab le p erfection o f fab ric and fin ish . O ne g lances — then hastens for affirm ation. A lm o st u n b elievab le is th e p rice m a rk o f $ 3 9 .5 0 .

T h ese an d other B a rb a ra L ee f r o c k s f o r wom en and mtsses are shown exclu sively in th e shops listed in this advertisem ent.

F rederick & N elsonSeattle, Wash,

Joseph H o r n e C o .Pittsburgh, Pa,

T h e J . L . H u d son C o .Detroit, Mich.

T h e F . & R . Lazarus & C o ,Columbus, Ohio

T h e Rike-K .um ler C o .D ayton , O hio

Straw bridge & C loth ierPhiladelphia, Pa.

T h e W m . T a y lo r S on & C o .Cleveland, Ohio

W ein sto ck , L nbin & C o .Sacramento, Cal.


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 0 2 4

YOUR BOY’S School TOGS

1

0L K

W i i E N you ou tfit y o u r boy fo r school you w ill find e xactly th e righ t typ e o f clothes in ou r B o y s ’ C lo th ing D epartm en t. T h is section offers an exten

sive assortm ent o f w ell-m ade apparel and fine haberdashery. T h e garm ents are distinguished b y carefu l ta ilo rin g and superior fin ish— th e y are m ade to w ith stan d the rough w ear an active b o y gives his clothes.

A — O xford shirts, full cut, cellent quality, collar attached or neck band m odels. Sizes i 2> i to 14 . 551.84. Oxford blouses insizes 7 to 16 years, ^ 1 .54 .

D — F ancy mixture suit with two pairs o f knickers. W ell-tailored in a variety o f all w ool fabrics

new Fall shades o f tan, grey, brown and olive m ixtures. Sizes 8 TO 18 vcars, 55i474-

B — A cunning vestee suit for little fellows. In warm cheviot, with vestee o f plaid fabric. T an , grey, heather, brown, sizes 3 to 8 years, S 1 7 .74 .

E— A ll worsted sweaters, coat style or pull-over with roll collar or V neck- In solid colors, navy, brow n, grey, m aroon, heather, green, and also with contrasting collar, cuffs or b od y stripes. Sizes 8 t o 16 years, S7 .44 .

C— Durable corduroy suit with tw o pairs o f knickers. Patch pocket front with yok e and box pleated back. Brown, tan, sizes 8 to 16 years, $ 1 2 .74 .


H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R f o r

F R E N C H S T Y L E S A N D F A B R I C S I N H A R T S C H A F F N E R & M A R X

C O A T S F O R W O M E NT h e styles have the sparkle, the dash, the warmth o£ Paris T h e fabrics are silky-velour cloths, Jacquard velvets, soft suede finished woolens^ some delicately patterned w ith stirring w intry shades in cloisonne designs, flow ing sea wave effects, brocaded flowers, oriental traceries

Y ou ’ll see countless original ideas

Send fo r the Style Bool^ It displays a variety o f striding coats for all occasions ~ many o f them lavishly fu rred at collar, cuff and hem

H A R T S C H A F F N E R & M A R XChicago JTew T o r\


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4

T J R I S I V E A R S T H E S E J N fE W Q o W N Sfor fall and winter

. . . and, simultaneously izith Tarts, the smart Âmerican woman mav wear these accurate Stewart Sfi Qo. replicasl

R e p lic a o f C y b e r Q ou in — its n ew them es are the scarf tie, the fascinating arm lets an d the very straight tu n ic a lm ost as lon g as the g ow n . O f raelesante satin w ith h an d -m ad e l ib b o nflow ers. (Jllusirated left). 59.50

R e p lic a o f D r e c o li Q o v jn — o f eclatante satin, a n e w supple v ersion , w ith C h ip m u n k fur ou tlin ed in brillian t em broideries, fo rm in g a fr o n t h em b ord er , p o ck e t edges, co lla r and cuifs. (lllusrrated center). 69 50

R e p lic a o f P h il ip p e e t G a s to n " s a n s h a b i t ” Q o t v n - - t h e “ coat-w ise” g o w n as Paris w ears it. O f eclatante satin w ith contrastin g c o lo re d silk crepe, b ea d em broid ered , fo r the tu n ic section o f th e fro ck . (lilusnated right). Q Q

T t A T J . 8

STew Tarts and Fifth <iAvenue ‘Boohôf Âdvance Fall and Winter AhCodes Will be Sent Tou Free on Teyiuest

• S t m a r t & C b .Correct ApparelforWomen StfMisses

Fifth A ven u e at 37th Street

I F C e W T O T J ^


10 H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

Qorrect Qlothes

Ju n ior M isses ’ P a rty F ro ck s th at express

th e m o d e in co ra l o r r o b in ’s -eg g b lu e g e o r

g e tte o v e r silk lin in g , e ffe ct iv e ly em bellish ed

w ith r ib b o n coca rd es in flow er designs;

S izes 1 $ and i j $ 2 5 . 0 0

G irls ’ W o o l C o a ts o f green o r tan heath er

m ixtu re , w ith w oo l p la id lin in g an d raccoon

ch o k e r co llar ;

S izes 6 , 8 and l o $ 2 9 . 5 0

S izes 1 2 to i 6 $ 3 3 . 5 0

Altman QIn.

Y o u th s ’ B lu e C h e v io t Suits, w ith tw o pairs o f lo n g trou sers ;

S izes 1 7 to 20 $ 3 8 . 5 0

G ir ls ’ W o o l P la id D resses , in red -a n d -ta n , w ith p a ten t 1 a th er b e lt ; ‘

S izes 6 to 1 2 $ 1 0 . 5 0

F IF T H A V E N U E

Thirty-'fourth Street N E W Y O R K

M A D IS O N A V E N U E

T hirty 'fifth Street


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 1 1

fo r the School and College Exodus

A sm ai-t m o d d fo r J u n io r M isses , d e v e lo p e d i l l n a v y b lu e ;h a ir -lin e s tr ip e d w o r s te d ; tw o - p ie ce tu n ic s ty le , tr im m ed w ith w h ite satu i co lla r a n d sm all red b u tto n s ;S izes i j lo 1 7 $ 1 9 . 7 5

B o y s ’ Suits, o f b row n , g r a y o r b lu e -g ra y m ix tu re , w ith tw o p a ir s o f k n ick ers ;S izes 8 to 1 8 $ 3 2 . 0 0 t o $ 4 2 . 5 0

G ir ls ’ R a in C o a ts , in s ilk o r ca n ton e tte , w ith d e ta ch a b le c a p e ; in ta n o r n a v y b lu e ;S izes 6 to 1 6 S ilk C o a t , $ 1 5 . 0 0

C a jito n e tte , $ 1 2 . 5 0

O ther F u rn ish in g s , as w ell a s L u ggage, to com p lete the S ch ool O utfit, a re available at m ost m oderate figu res .

Y o u t h s ’ Su its o f b r o w n , g r a y o r b lu e -g ra y m ixtu re , som e w ith tw o pairs o f lon g trou sers, o th ers w ith on e p a ir o f lo n g trou sers a n d on e p a ir o f k n ick ers ;S izes 1 7 to 2 0 $ 4 0 . 0 0 t o $ 4 8 . 0 0

B o y s ’ Suits, o f b lu e c h e v io t o r serge, w ith t w o p a irs o f k n ick e rs ;S izes 8 to 1 8 $ 3 5 . 0 0

1 . Altman k do.F IF T H A V E N U E

Thirty-fourth Street N E W Y O R K

M A D IS O N A V E N U E

T hirty-fifth Street


12 H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R f o r

T O T t A T e v e p j s m a r t w o m a p ^ w s a r s t a t s

C O S T U M E C O M P JL

The T\e\v6st f i « are o fcolored fibre iiili withdaincf

hand’ painted decorations

7 HE WOMAN w ho maintains a really smart wardrobe is less dependent upon the depth o f her purse than upon intelligent

interpretation o f the mode. She is not unduly sw ayed b y short' lived incidental fashions. She is keenly appreciative o f well- founded style tendencies. H er chief concern is for the best w ay to adapt the latter to her ow n requirements.

T h is wom an knows, for example, that the strongest feeling in the mode today is for the ensemble or costume complete. She recognizes this as an inherently smart style development, intelligently conceived, entirely practical in its personal application. A n d she finds in Knitted OuxERwear the greatest opportunity for observance o f this important trend o f fashion.

Shopping for the Knitted OuTERwear ensemble proves as fascinating as it is profitable. Specialty shops and Knitted OuTERwear departments fairly bloom w ith knitted costumes w hose multiplicity o f texture, pattern and color are unapproachable. These garments are unbelievably smart— chic as a Paris boulevard— decidedly inexpensive.

T h e beauty o f Knitted OuTERwear goes hand in hand w ith sturdiness and durability. Knitted costumes, though w orn regularly and frequently, m ay be restored b y simple methods to their ordinal daintiness.*

T h e wom an w h o turns to Knitted OuTERwear augments the purchasing pow er o f her income. H er wardrobe alw ays provides a refreshing variety o f garments— each one irreproachable in line and silhouette— each a costume o f individual charm.

K n i t t e d O U T E R w e a r B u r e a u , i n c .

4 5 0 F o u r th A v e n u e , ? ^ e w T o r ^ C it y

StunninR knitted shawl o f black fibre sHk simularinf old

lace

* Write {oT Free Booklet “ H ow to Cure for

Knittcci OuTERwear'

W h a t Knitted O uxERwear is:K n itted O U T E R w ear em&races every garment knitted o f wool, silk or artificial silk, w ith the exception o f underwear and dress fiosierj. A m ong the many classifications a re: Bathing suits, capes, dresses,

gloves, headwear, infants’ wear, jerseys, leggins, mittens, mujfiers, n eckw ear, o v e r c o a ts , r ee fers , scarfs, sfiawis, smocks, sports hose, sports skins, suits, sweaters, vests, wristlets-

\


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 13

Sa k s - f if t h a v e n u eopens Monday^ September

world’s largest specialists in apparel and accessories v£? for every member of the family — from Baby Bunting, in a bassinet to men and Women o f all ag,es. . . Saks-Fifth CAvenue, New York ’s newest and greatest store, presents its specialties in such inclusive varieties . . . in such vast volume . . . in such correct and exclusive styles . . . and at such low prices that N ew Y ork w ill he amazed.

I f y o u w ou ld lik e to r ec e iv e p erson a l n o tic e s o f our im p orta n t p r iv a te sa les and show ings, w e sha ll b e v e r y ^ la d to p u ty o u r n a m e an d a d d ress on o u r m ailing list,

S a k s & C o m p a n yFO RTY NINTH STREET * F I F T H A V E N U E • F IF T IE T H STR -EET


14 H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R f °

u t u m n ' s n e w s t y l e G X ^ p r e s s i o n s f o r t h e w o m a n b y cr,,-,,

0 L v y c kBdnrjstwimmlkHtlwBioihlmfrwdef the bdkr shops


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 15-

Complete Sehool Outfitsfor Girls, Large and Small

C orrect and generous cut, durable materials and distinctive m odels are em phasized in our girls’ school clothes. T h e coats and frocks sketched above are exclusive L ord Taylor m odels.

C H I N C H I L L A C O A T S g ig .50

M ad e in our own workroom s of Germania chinchilla, and lined with suede cloth. N a v y , beaver, French blue and copper. 6 to 1 4 years.

M atchin g hats with grosgrain cocarde and piping, ^6 .95.

M atchin g hats trimmed with

C H E V I O T C O A T S •50

raccoon, •95-

B L O O M E R F R O C K S $8.95

Little girls’ jersey frocks, hand smocked. Belgian, cedar, almond green, and brown are the colors. 6 to 10 years.

Fabrics imported from England for L o r d Taylor. T h ese coats, lined and interlined throughout, have large raccoon shawl collars. Brown heather and blue heather mixtures. 8 to 1 4 years.

F R E N C H R E P F R O C K S $12 .9 5

M ade with detachable linen collar and button-on cuffs. L o v e ly colors: twilight blue, French blue, almond green, and brown. 8 to 1 4 years. E x tra set o f collar and cuffs included with each frock.

Y O U N G P E O P L E ’ S S T O R E — F O U R T H F L O O R

Lord & TaylorF IF T H A V E N U E , N E W Y O R K


16 E A R P E R ' S B A Z A R

O 'q a, q

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o

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f r o m b ke^ J^ o u S c

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Pflcenc applied for

F o r coolness, daintiness, and free body comfort, the fem inine w orld greets the corse t sensation o f the season ' ^ ‘R i b b o n e t t e .

T h is one-piece,'semi-Iastic, non-lacing model is flexibly boned at proper points o f body support<^and features at the back ventilating bands o f rich satin ribbon or beautiful embroidery panels, horizontally placed.

It is splendidly made o f the very best fancy material broche, has rustless boning that flexes freely w ith the f i g u r e the famous nonpinching clasp.

Strong, light, supple, durable, and practical, this fash ionable new m odel is particularly adaptable for all athletic activities where a cool, comfortable corset is desired. Carried everywhere by all good stores and specialty shops.

T w o q u a lit ie s : R o y a l W o r c e s t e r a t $ 1 .5 0 a n d $ 2 .5 0 a p a ir ; B o n T o n a t $ 3 .5 0 t o $ 1 0 .0 0

O o

Au'

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o!} 0

o

D

O 0p o

o 4 0 3 5

. P r ic e $ 3 .$ 0

C j<rom a big ,h a pp y , su n litfa ctoryu y , rises this bu tterfly o f F ashion, the dream o f a w on d erfu l designer and th e creation o f countless contented w o r k e r s - ^ R ib b o n e t t e '^ t h e season’s sensation in a w a rm w ea th er corset.

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rt>TRouat Worcester Corset Company

^ a W O R C E S T E R - N E W YORK - C H I C A G O - SAN F R A N C IS C O - LON DON________________ __


0 r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 17

)

)

. ' i f i t h f‘ -E n n 'S

“ W H A T A B E A U T I F U L W A L K ”' ' I ■ 'H E s p e a k e r , a n a r d e n t y o u n g f r e s h m a n , t u r n e d e n v io u s e y e s

A o n t h e g r a c e fu l M y r a H a ls t e a d a s s h e s w u n g a c r o s s th e c a m p u s .

H e r c o m p a n io n s m ile d . “ Y e s , ” s h e s a id , “ t h e H a ls t e a d w a lk is m o r e fa m o u s h e r e t h a n P o m a n d e r W a l k . S h e h a s th e w h o le J u n io r c la s s l i t e r a l ly f o l l o w i n g in h e r f o o t s t e p s ! ”

“ Y o u m e a n s h e ’ s t e a c h in g ’ e m t o w a l k — o n e , t w o , t h r e e , n o w s t e p a n d a ll t h a t ? ”

“ N o , c h i l d , s h e ju s t t o ld t h e m t h e s e c r e t o f th a t g r a c e fu l s w in g o f h e r s .”

“ H o w c a n a h u m b le fr e s h m a n le a r n ? S tu d y h a rd o r w h a t ? ”

“ N o — a n y J u n io r is l ik e ly t o c o r n e r y o u a n d t e l l y o u o n th e

A Colonial Ped-e^mode •with uurdy b u land k vi tongue comfortable fa r •walhing yet graceful in lines In modhh leaihen and ihades.

fir s t in t r o d u c t io n . J u s t t o s p o i l t h e i r f u n . I ’ l l t e l l y o u m y s e l f — P e d - e - m o d e s . ”

“ T e l l m e m o r e — m o r e . ”

“ W e l l , M y r a u s e d t o h a v e a ll k in d s o f t r o u b le w it h h e r fe e t a n d o f c o u r s e n o 'o n e c a n b e g r a c e fu l o r s e l f - u n c o n s c io u s w h e n h e r f e e t b o t h e r h e r . S h e w a s t o o w e l l d r e s s e d t o c o n s e n t t o w e a r in g c l u m s y , h e a lth s h o e s a n d t h e n h e r c o u s i n , M a r i o n , t o ld h e r a b o u t P e d - e - m o d e s . T h e y ’ re s m a r t as c a n b e a n d t h e m o s t b l i s s fu l ly c o m f o r t a b l e s h o e s im a g in a b le . I b o u g h t a p a ir la s t

w e e k a n d I ’ l l n e v e r b u y a n y o t h e r s .”

“ O n e c e r t a in ly l e a r n s a l o t a t c o l l e g e . A r e t h e y a w f u l ly e x p e n s iv e ? ”

“ N o , e s p e c ia l ly w h e n y o u c o n s id e r h o w l o n g t h e y la s t .”

A triA p ae5T0 Fifth erme. NevAhrk,

N e a r 4 6 tb S tr e e t

S h oes/6r Women

A n interesting strap placement adds vnart^ ness to this pump fo r street or afternoon. In the vjanted leathers and shades.

P ed -e-m od es a re shown exclu sively in th e shops listed below :

P E D E M O D E , I n c . T H E P E D E M O D E S H O P5 7 0 F i f t h A v e n u e , N e w Y o r k 1 7 0 8 E u c l i d A v e n u e , C l e v e l a n d , O .

L . Bam berger C o . Ernst K ern C o . C ity o f Paris D r y G o o d s C o . N e im a n -M a rcu sC o . L . L ivingston Caspari is" V irm on d C o .Newark, N. J. Detroit, Mich. San Francisco, Cal. Dallas, Texas New York Milwaukee, Wis.

S eym ou r S y cle K err D r y G ood s C o . T h om a s K ilpatrick C o . K night Shoe C o . Lauber’ s Jacob B ros. F . E . B allou C o .Richmond, Va, Oklahoma City, Oltla. Omaha, Neb. Portland, Ore. Tclcdo, Ohio NewOrleans, La. Providence, R . I.

R obert I . C o h e n , I n c . Phelps S hoe Store D aven port H o te l Sport Shop F riedm an-Spring D r y G o o d s C o .Galveston, Texas Shreveport, La. Spokane, Wash. Grand Rapids, Mich.

W r it e f o r sf^ie book— no charge

J U L I U S G R O S S M A N . I N C . . B R O O K L Y N ,

Joseph H o r n e C o .Pittsburgh, Pa.

D . B . L ovem an C o .Chattanooga, Tenn.

Sm ith-K asson C o .Cincinnati, O.


18 H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R f o r

A G O L F L E X S U I TYo ilR ay'oy it, first, because yo u ’ll f in d the smart Frock. so very us f i d fo r early wear. Then,as the weather grows co oler-’ y o u il appreciate its handsome Coat with fla t- te/irig touches o f baby fo x fu r—making a faultlessly lovely ta ilku r usable throughout the TFtirder.

W i l k i n a d l e r i n c ., 5 0 0 S e v e n t h A v e n u e , n .y c .

FOR, SALE ONLY AT DEPAMMENTAND SPECIALTY STORES

EN TIflB C d N T B N T e e d P V R I f iH T E D T 9 2 4 B V W SLKIN ft A D L B R IMCi


R f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 19

O n e quality w hich wom en deeply admire in the Cadillac is its unrivalled capacity for remaining young. 0 [ By that w e mean the astonishing Cadillac abiHty to remain mechanically fit, smooth and quiet in operation, and consistently handsome and fashionable long after other cars must be replaced. OL Incidentally, it is this enduring excellence w hich stamps the new as the trulyeconom ical car and makes it the w ise investment for people o f moderate as well as unlim ited means.


2 0H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

f o r S

R u b b er G irdles MaRe Reducing Sane

IThis new rubber reducing girdle, made of Nemolastik,

brings reducing by this efficient method to the point of exquisite refinement.

Nemolastik, which b finest <■ /Para rubbei covered ©n both f sides with pure silk, is an . . .exclusive fabric perfected and 4 protected by the makers o f W B^m Nemo Corsets.

makers o f Nemo Corsets, S jhold your figure fiim, yet : A

sensation of supple slen-derness, of lithe a^d ekstic - j

massaged, the

off through the circulation. /

ing—readily washed,retain- . B m ; ,-:J' ■ingthe delicate flesh tint o f f - F U -f

A sk fo r them today at your dealer’s, o r/in in the coupon and fonuard it.

G IR D L E

NoM Qenuinc Wfchdue This Mark:

e f G en u in e" S \N& nokstib BRASSIERE

$ 5

T H E H O U S E O F C O W P L E T E C 0 R 5 E T R Y j

1 2 0 EASJ^©'^” STREET ^ N E W YORK CITY. yjS m

P lease send m e w ith o u t ob lig a t io n , b ook le t on

“ S e lf-R ed u cin g , E x q u is ite ly , S a fe ly an d S an ely .” N a m e ................................... ..............................................................................

A d dress ..................................................................................................................................................R , B , (F orw a rd th is c o u p o n t o K o p s B ros . In c ., 1 2 0 E . 16 th S t ., N . Y -)

IpaJioiiL J^bel .2d a StOa/uidot^n.

•beauty w i t h s im p lic ity

— e x c lu s iv e n e s s o f s ty le ■withe x c lu s iv e n e s s o f fa b r ic

— w a r m t l i w i t h o u t w e ig h t

— a fla ir f o r t h e o u t -d o o r s w i t h t h e sm artn ess o f t h e m o s t fo r m a l C o s t u m e

— s o ftn e s s a n d d e lic a c yw i t h re m a rk a b le e n d u r a n c e

— th e s ilh o u e tte o f c h a r m in g y o u t h w i t h a n a ir o f s o p h is t r y

C o n c e d e d t o b e t h e m o s t w o n d e r f u l C o a t s in t h e w o r ld . A n d n o t e x p e n s iv e !

A t t h e b e s t S to r e s e v e r y w h e r e !

H a n d s o m e F a s h io n B ook — o n re q u es t.

C r e a te d ex c lu s iv e ly b y

TM E H O U /E O Fc/W ANyDOW NI - I u i® o v 5 ib 2 & E i® d p lc l%

a i ' a s E ctcE a a ^ V l j v e e t N e v C \ b p k

C a n a d i a n O ffic e .- The House o f Swansdown 0/ Canada, 3 10 SpaJina Aoe., Toronto


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 21

I N T R O D U C I N G

GERA FABRICSfor FALL

Products o f the Gera Mills are shown on the following four pages in a Series o f Advanced Fall

Fashions in such materials as

MOKINE REPLERAMOLERA

T h e following pages particularly illustrate the perfect suitability of these Gera Fabrics for interpreting the approaching mode.This series will he continued in both Harper’s Bazar and Vogue through October and November with new models. For twenty-five years the Gera Mills have made only the very finest fabrics, in every variety,

demanded by well-dressed women

G E R A M IL L SF O U N D E D 1900

257 F o u rth A ven u e • N ow Y o rk C ity

P resen lod w ith th e co -o p e ra tio n o f th ese ch arm in g m em bers o f N e w Y o rk S o c ie ty w h o g ra ciou sly co n se n te d t o p ose , in th e in terest o f ch a r ity , f o r th e sk etch es s liow n : M iss J a n et B row er, M iss H a rr ie t C a m a c, M rs . V a n H e n ry C artn iell, M iss C on sta n ce D e la n o y , M rs . A lv in D ev creu x , M iss H e len G ou ld , M iss A d e lin e H a tch , M rs . F red er ic H u m p h re y s ,

M rs , S . T h e o d o re H od g m a n , J r., M rs . P u tn am M o rr ison , M iss C atherine O k ie . M rs . T h o m a s F en to n T a y lo r

A ll sketches b y M iss E . M . A . S tein m etz.

In tro d u ce d w ith t lie co -o p e ra tio n o f these fo u r N ew Y o r k shop.s:B on w it , T e ller & C o . S te in & B la in e H en ri B en d e l F ra n k lin S im on & C o .


22 H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R f o r S £

S T U D Y OF MI SS C O N S T A N C E D E L A N O YM is s D d a n o y is •wearing a new m odel by B O N W I T T E L L E R

C O . esp ecia lly designed fo r G E R A M I L L S “ M O K I N E .”

m" M o k in e ,” a d istinctly new , D u velyn -lik e fa b r ic , exqu isitely soft and f in e , is used in R u ssia n green f o r this lorap. I t is a s lim straight w rap that achieves the effect o f a sm art coat-frock because it is so sim ple and has non e o f the clum siness o f a top-coal. T h e huge collar is o f beaver.

.i

G E R A M ILL S P O B T PO L tO OP A D V A N C E D PA SH ION S


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 23

S T U D Y OF MISS H E L E N G O U L DM is s G ould is w earin g a n ew creation by S T E I N S ' B L A I N E esp ecia lly designed fo r G E R A M I L L S " M O K I N E .

T h e fu l l draped sum ptu ous fo ld s o f this lu xu riou s, buttonless w rap-aroun d coat are so ftly su p p le in gracious “ M o k in e ,” a new , exqu isite , D m ety ti- lik e fa b r ic . T h e n ew sm art length, w hich i s neither "th ree-q u a r te r s" nor " f u l l , " is accented by e f e c t M y arranged pelts o f f in e d eep chapchilla.

wC E R A M a U S P O R T P O L lO O P A D V A X C C D F A S D IO N S


24H A R P E R ' S B A Z A R

S T U D Y OF MI SS H A R R I E T C A M A CM is s Catnac i s w earin g a new m odel by H E N R J B E N D E L esp ecia lly designed f o r G E R A M I L L S " M O L E R A

T he costum e com plete has n ow becom e the ahnost standard costu m e f o r the sm art w om an. T h is "e n s em b le '' o f cocoa colored " M o l e r a ” has a three-quarter length coat handed w ith M in s k y . T h e fr o c k is o f m atching fa b r ic " M o le r a ,” a new soft fa b r ic that has a m olesk in surfa ce that i s as soft an d as f in e as cashm ere.

C E R A M IL L S P O R T P O L tO O F A D V A N C E D F A S H IO N S


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 425

S T U D Y OF MISS C A T H E R I N E O K I EM is s O k ie is w earing a n ew m odel by F R A N K L I N S I M O N S ' C O . esp ecia lly designed fo r G E R A M I L L S " R E P L E R A . ’ ’

A n oth er phase o f the costum e com plete is the coat-frock w ith nuitching accessories. T h e un usually sim ple aitd sm art coat-frock sketched above i s o f "R c p le r a , ’ ’ a n ew fa b r ic that is neither rep nor bengaline, but has m uch o f the charm o f both. I t is used tn bark color wUk sm all decorative patches o f leopard fu r . T he brow n fe lt hat and sable fu r s arc in perfect harm ony w ith ike fro ck .

GERA K ILLS rOHTFOLIO OS ADVANCSO FASUIOSS



k l d j i g u m

m w j o o l w m r J a s n L o n s

LA IR D , SC H O B E R & C O M P A N YP H IL A D E L P H IA

Announce

timely and authoritative models in Vici kid — distinctive interpretations o f the current footivear mode

Presented at retail hyJO H N W A N A M A K E R C H A S . A . ST E V E N S S.. B R O S . T H E H E N R Y H . T U T T L E C O . S T R A W B R ID G E &. C L O T H IE R

New YotJ. CU cogo Boston Philotjelphio

W E T H E R B Y -K A Y S E R SH O E C O .Los Angeles Tasadena Botiyu>ood

R . H , FYFE &. C O . D«{voic

K A U F M A N N ’ S “ T H E BIO S T O R E ” Petcsburgh

H U T ZL E R B R O T H E R S C O .BaIrii7V9*£

F. R . L A Z A R U S St C O .Columbus

O E O R G E M U SE C L O T H iN O C O . Ariania

D . H . H O L M E S C O ., L T D . New Orleans

T U R R E L L SH O E C O - Seaetle

C IT Y O F P A R IS D R Y G O O D S C O .

M EIER St P R A N K C O . Portland

T A F T St P E N N O Y E R C O . Oakland

T H E E M P O R IU M S O M M E R St K A U F M A N N T H E W H IT E H O U SESan Francisco

M IC H E L A . LEVYSanta Barbara

M cD o n a l d s h o e c o . Tacoma

BESTEN &. L A N G E N C O .. IN C - L A V E N S O N 'S , IN C . S Y M O N S D R Y G O O D S C O - SC H U LD E N FR E I D R Y G O O D S C O .Louisville Sacromenfo Butte Atlantic Cif>

Look for the Vici kid trade mark in the Laird, Schober and Company models as shown on these pages. It identifies the leather as the one and only Vici kid.

There is only one V ic i kid— there never has been any other.

MADE ONLY BYRob't HIqirdererInc.

PHILADELPHIA <k J

A L O A S Y L V A N

C L Y T IE -L O R A

I

' I

REG. U .S .


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 427

I h e F O O T A R IS T O C R A T IC

V IC I k id is m anufactured exclusively by R o b ert H. Foerd erer,ln c. M akers o f finefootw earselect V ic ik id

for its consistent quality and the grace and richness it gives to their m ost distinctive models.

R O B E R T H. FO ER D ER ER , Inc.PH ILAD ELPH IA

V E N T N O R

IO N A O X F O R D

PAT. OFF.


28 H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A Rf o r S .

M 0. a057— A d uausiiully sraart frock of Crepe SatlD pleated and embroidered in 9llX and beads, charmliigly enbancea by a graceful scarf with same ibeme of embroidery. Colors — Black, N avy. Brown & Cocoa Slsee 16 to 44.

N o . 2056— TLltf Street Frouk of Le LoDg'8 SUk BsQgalloe Is beautifully embroidered In gllk and gold aod tbo tassels lend a smart finiahlDg t o u e b . Colors— Blaok. N avy, Cocoa, Browo. Green & Rust. Sizes 16 to 44.

N o 2052— Le Long's Silk Bcogallnc lasblOQS tbis attractive embroidered C oat Frock Long stik fringe ilnisLee the SQSb Colors—Black, Navy,Brown, Cocoa. Green & Huat. Sfzos )G to 44

Posed by Claire WtndsorThree Trincess T a t Tressescreated by artists fo r Women who are connoisseurs o f style!

P R E S E N T E D A T T H E S E S T O R E S E X C L U S I V E L Y

Albany, N . Y . Atbeos, Ga. Atlanta, Go. Augusta, Ga. Austin. Texas

W a ld m a o Bros. M ich a e l Bros.K ee ly C om p a n y J . G o ld b e rt & Sons £ . M . S ca rsb orou gb

& SonsBaton Rouge, La. Battle Creek.

Mich,Bingham COD. N . Y .

S i I . R cy m o n d

Fargo N . D . A . L . M o o d yFayetteville, N . C. F le ish m a n Bros. G o. Florence, Ala, Douftlass S h oe &

C lo th in g C o.F t. Collins, C ol. E d m on d s . D . G .. C o.F ort W orth, Texas C a n s C o.Fulton, M o. T o m p k in s C h ristia n

A lexander

M orion. Ind.M arl 00. Va. M ason City, Iowa M cAlester, Okla. M cC ook, Neb. M cKeesport, Pa. M em ph is Tenn. M iami, Fla.

Birmingham. Ala. Blue Field, W . Va, Bristol. Teno. Brooklyn. N . Y . Buffalo, N . Y .

L . W , R o b in so n C o. S isson B ros.. W elden

Co.B u rg cr -P h iflip s C o. T h e H aw ley M d se . Co.

Butte, M ont.

T h o H . P . K in g C o. Fred 'k L ooser 4c Co* A d e m M etd ru m &

A n d erson C o. H en n essy 'e

Gainesville, Fla. Gonova. N Y , Grand Bapid&

M ich.Grcenfibo o . N . O. Creensburg. Pa, GreenvUle, C.

Cape Girardeau.MO.

Casper, W yo. CnarlestQQ, W . Va, Charlotte, N . C, Chattanooga,

TenD,Chicago, Ll.

B u ck n e r R a gsda le C lo . D . G . C o.

L in dsay 4c Co.C o y le & R ich a rd son G . B . C aban iss 4e C o. M iller B ros. C o.

Greenwood, Mias. G rlSn, Ga.

W ilso n C o. H ick cy> K a n e C o. F r ied m a n Spring

D . G . C o.C a ba iss. In c.A . E. T rou ccn an C o. C aban iss G ard n er

C o.F . G o o d m a n D . G .

C o.S trick lan d C ro u ch

Co.

Mlnneapolla.Minn,

M onroe, La. M ontgom ery, Ala. M ount Vernon,

Ohio

B lu m e n th a l 4e C o. C o llin s Bros, M a n ley B ros. C o. B e ll ’sH . C . C lapp J . D. O ’ Ncri C o.J . S u m m erfie ld B u rd in e &

O u arierraan E. E , A ck ln eon Co.

Richm ond, Va. Riverside, Cal. Rochester, N . Y.Rooheeter, MlDn. Rockford, 11 1 .

K a u fm a n n & C o .G . RousG & Go.E. W . E dw ards 4c

Sons C . F . M assey Co.H . L . W orth a m C o.

Raliebury, M d.Son Francisco, C&l.

B ella J . S ch erch M orrlS 'B ya rs C o. T h e J . S. RJngwalc

C o.

SantaBarbara, Cal. Savannah, Ca. ScrsDton. Pa, Seattle, Wash.

C h erry 4c Co-P . J . Y o u n g D . G . Go,

Hannibal, M o. Holdreuc, N eb. HorneU, N . Y .

Chill Icothe. Ohio ClnclnnaU. Ohio Cleveland OhioC ol Springs. CoL Columbus, Mias. Columbus. OhioDallas, TexasDanbury. Conn. Danville, III. DanvIUe, K y.Dayton. Ohio Denton. Texas Denver, Col.DCS Moines, lowa Detroit. Mich, Dixon, III.Dubuque, Iowa Dunkirk, N. Y. Elmira, N. V. Erwin, Tcnn. Evergreen. Ala

A t Y o u r F avorite S h op

S to ry 4c B ia n d le H 4c S . P ogu e W m T a y lo r Son s 4e

Co.W ilb u r C l. 4c St. C o. W . C . Beard, In c. B rad ford H u sch Co. T ic c h e G o e tt ln g cr

Co.M cL e a n Bros. S trauss 4c L ou is C o. A . B . R ob e rtso n 4c

B ro.Adler 4c C h ilds W . B . M cC iu rk an &Co, T h e N eu steter C o. H arris E m ery C o. Fran k 4c Seder A . L . G e lscn b e lm er

4c Co.J . P . S tam p fer C o. T . W . SIdcy Estate S. F . Iszard C o. P.wald 4c C o .. In c.1 . L o n g 4c Son s

U ot Springs. Ark. H ouston. Texas Huntsville, Ala.

T h e F a m ou s T h e F . J o h n so n C o. A d a m D av id son 4c

Co.A lbert M en del & G o. F o ley B ros. D . G . Co. S . S . T h o m p so n

Nashville, Tenn, C a stn cr K n o tt N cw Bedford,

Mass.N ew Brunswick

N . J.N ow Castle, Pa.N ew Haven, Coon.N ew Kensington,

Pa.N ew Orleans, La.

B row n & H a m ilton H erzog D ress Shop S ilverm an 's

Shoboy’tan, Wis. Sioux City. Iowa Spartanburg, 3 .0 . Spokane. Wash, Sprii^field. Maas.Sterling, ill.

N ewport, R . I. N ow York, N . Y .

Ithaca, N . Y . R o th s ch ild Bros.

L . F e ib lem a n 4c C o . In c.

H e len N . M cC u rd y F ra n k lin S im o n &

C o.

St. Loula, M o.St, Paul, Minn. Susquehanna, Pa. Syracuso, N . Y .

R . E. Pow ell 4c Co. O 'C o n n o r M o ffa u 4c

Co.T re n w lth ’ s L eop o ld A d ler S cra n ton D. G . C o. M a cD ou g a l SouCh>

w ick C o.S n e ll ’s A p parel S h op D av id son Bros.A u g . W . S m ith Co, T h e C resccoc T h e W o m a n ’ s S h op W y n c D ca vcr D . G .

C o.T . W . G arlan d H u sch Bros.E ism an 4c H ersch S. B u rd ick 4c Sons

Jackson. Mias. Johnstown. Pa. Jooesboro, Ark.

D ow n in g L o ck e C o. S ch w artz Bros.J . G rossm an

Oakland. Cal. O ak Park, lil.

Kalam azoo Mich.KaoBos City. M o, Keokuk. Iowa Knoxville, TeoD.

J . R . J o n e s S on s & Co.

B erk son Bros. S u llivan & A uw erda A n d erson D u lln 4c

Varnelt

T a ft 4c P en n oyer C o. W a rrin g ton Style

S h opOcala. Fla. R h e in a u er C o.Ogclenaburg, N , Y , N ath an F ran ks Sons Oklahoma City, K err D . G . Go.

Okla,O rlobdo, F la. D ick son Ives G o.

Tampa, Fla. Trenton, N .J . T roy. N . Y, Tulsa, Okla.

M a a s Bros.P en rose Parlors S ch erer ’ sV a n d evcr D . C . C o.

Vicksburg, Miss.

Washington, D , C.

T h e Style Shop

Lagrange, Oa>.Lancaster. Pa.

Salle, 1 1 1. Lawrence. Mass. Lincoln, Kcb.Los Angeles. Cal.Louisville, K y. Lynchburg, v a ,Lyons, N . Y.

C a llaw ay ’ s D ept.Store

D o n o e lly ’ 8 C b as. B . B lakely G has. W ein er 4c Son M agee 'sA . H a m b u rg er 4c

Sone, Inc.B eaten 4e L angen C . M . G u g g c n b e lm cf

In c.H a rtm a n S ty le S h op

. Paaadcna, Cal. PhUadelpLla Pa.Pine B luff, Ark. Pittsburgh, Pa Pontiac, Mlcb,

P ort Arthur, Texas P ort Huron, Mich.Portland. Oreg. Poughkeepsie,

N . Y, Pulaski, Va.

T o o k e r J ord a n C o. Scraw brldgc 4c

C loth ier Isa a c D rey fu s C o. F ron k 4c beder R o b e rts o n ’s R ea dy

T o W ear Shop A . B lu este in K osen ch a ! W lnkeU

m a n C o.M c ic r 4c Fran k L u ck y P tn tt 4c Co.

Watertown, S, D. Westerly, l i . I. Whecilng, W . Va, Wilkes Barre. Pa.Wilmington, Del. W inston Salem.

N . C.

W ood w a rd 4c L a th rop

P aulis D. G . C o. T h e P . H . O p ie C o. G eo . E. S tife l C o. F ow ler D ick &

W alker S ch w a rtz B ros. C o. A n ch or S tores C o,

Yonkers, N . Y . Y ork , Pa.Youngstown, Ohio

J . W illia m son S. G ru m b a ck cr &

SonG . M . M cK e lv cy 4c

C o.

M . C . B a n c . In c. Zanesville, Ohio H . H . S tu rtcv a n t Co,

F R E D E R IO iL O E S E R C O .

in XeuFfoA <n Brooklyn

NEW voeft

\P R IN C E S S P A T D R E S S M A K E R S

501 Seventh A i;e ., cor, 37th St., Neu> Y o rk

Cj £ ' ‘

3 .


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 429

I

W H I C H W O U L D Y O U K A T H E f U W E A K S I L K O K T I N 7

S u p p o s e y o u w a lk e d in to a store one d a y and

fou n d sorn .esiIkspIacard ed likethis“ T^ejej-z/^j-

are heavily weighted with tin to give them the b o d y

of better silks for less money. They w i l l crack or sp lit

and i f you send them to the cleaners, they are likely

to come home seriously damaged.

A n d turning around y o u sa w an oth er grou p

labeled " These are B eld in g s Pure-dyed S ilk s .They

are as good as they look-the strength of the o r i g i n a l

s ilk has been zealously guarded a t every stage of

manufacture. They tu ill wear even better than you

expect and clean perfectly as often as you like.

W h ic h W o u ld Y o u C h o o se T o Sp en d Y o u r

M o n e y O n ? .......................................... Of Course!

E v e r y tim e y o u b u y silk fo r a dress, a lin in g,

or a b it o f lingerie, y o u m ust m ake a choice

m ore or less lik e th is except th at there is no la

bel to te ll y o u w h ic h is the w e i g h t e d silk .

T h e re a lly im portan t p o in t h o w e v e r is to be

able to tell th.t good silk . T h a t yo u can do eas

ily because th e name B c ld in g ’s w o v e n in the

selvage o f e very genuine B e ld in g ’s S ilk has

m eant Silk s o f enduring b ea u ty and w o r th for

three generations.

I f yo u do n o t k n o w w h ic h store near yo u sells

B e ld in g ’ s S ilk s, it w i l l be w o r th w h ile to in

quire u n til yo u find it— io,ooo good shops sell

and recom m end them .

[ b c t d i n f sF A B R I C S E M B R O I D E R I E S • S P O O L S I L K S

B eld in g B ros. & C om pany ycT LB roadtvay, N e w Y o r k C iS y


30H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R f o r S I

L U lLl'Jil'M U IifM W PW W IIi

i : ^ ‘ T T r

iW 'W W ‘ ' *■• .A —, , 4 , A - . . . . - . 4

‘ - - e i Mil* •'♦♦■4 - - ‘ •■‘— "eft*,*.■ -

- - . » - i Ma . .k > • < • si, - -a iJ i* .

• • •'Yirth.r ------------ -

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•-•'■•"•• — • “ ■'•• it f t* ' '" ------- '■■ '*•■'• *•'' ' •— •"•■■'"* •s f t l i r " ' — - ■ • ' ' ............« . > v 4 * ' i A 4 «

,#)»:? «(*>■• ■ ‘

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.WC^

W / h ile y o u r e d u c e■ let your body breathe

H y g i e n i c red u ction is n o t a m atter o f en forced p ersp iration — n o t at all. It is a m atter o f diet,

exercise A N D M A S S A G E .A b o v e is a p ie ce o f K en lastic rep ro d u ce d in exact size. See th e pores in th e fa b r ic ? . . . T h o se pores m ean everyth in g to y o u r co m fo rt— an d t o y o u r health .T h e pores in K en lastic a llo w y o u r b o d y to breathe freely a n d even ly— at a ll tim es a n d u n d e r a ll co n d itio n s . I f y o u naturally perspire freely , th e pores in K en lastic p reven t any p ossib ility o f p o iso n o u s elem ents o f p erspiration be in g d riv en b a ck in to y o u r system.T h e pores In K en lastic h e lp t o k eep y ou r b o d y c lea n and sw eet an d w h o lesom e— an d th ey m ea n m u ch t o th e life o f y o u r garm ent.Strands o f finest ru bb er, co v e re d a n d re cov ered w ith fine silk o r c o tto n , th e n k n itted b y a specia l process, w h ich m eans u n vary in g stren gth a n d resiliency— that is K en la sticC orsets an d red u cin g girdles m ade w ith K en lastic adjust them selves n atu ra lly a n d ev en ly t o every lin e a n d curve o f b o d y a n d lim b— h o ld in g an d m ou ld in g th e figure w ith ou t restraint.A n d always— w ith ev ery ch an ge in m o t io n an d posture, th o u g h y o u are n ev er con sc iou s o f it, K en lastic is gently m assaging th e excess flesh away.W e a r corsets m ade w ith K en lastic w ith p erfect co m fo rt every day— all day. O n th e g o l f course , ten n is courts, rid in g, m otor in g — everyw here.K en lastic lets y ou r b o d y breathe.F or m ore th a n seventy years K en lastic has b e e n m ade— a serv ice t o a m ost exactin g clien te le . A n d n o w y o u get K en lastic, th e k n itted elastic— in A m erica ’s finest corsets a n d redu cin g girdles.

Ja m e s R . K e n d r i c k C o ., In c .Germantown, PHILADELPHIA 205 Sixth Avenue, NEW YORK

Idufh’s Simple QharmR evealed in Fashions

fo r Every IEoman Everywhere

J a c q u e m in o tC oa t o f hoUyberry Fawnskin com bined w ith lustrous seal.

S o p h o m o r eDress o f m idnight blue Charmeen w ith contrasting G eorgette frills.

H a r m o n i e C oat o f cinnabar ICashmana lavishly trim m ed w ith soft beige squirrel.

The “ road to happiness” for a woman often lies in

the possession of attire so lovely that it makes her realize her highest ideals of art, fashion and beauty.

Howse of Youth CoatSy Frocks and Suits

are to be found in the smartest shops of the

land. They are worn by the modish miss and charming matron everywhere, who seek for

an individuality in dress expressive of real character. They are inspired by the highest

creative fashion genius in a wholly original way.

W rite for a copy o f “ SU C C E SS 7N D R ESS” — a deligh^ul fashion publication fu ll o f the latest style nsuis for autumn

S C H U L M A N & H A U P T M A N

224 W E S T 35 tb S T ., N E W Y O R K

i■■

a’ ..-


i f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 231

I M l L I j S l U

I. LhCiller zAnflouncesThe E a r l y

-and a 7ie)D faStory fo r their fashioning

Delicate of line, simple of tlieme, tlie new A utum n slippers v ie in beauty with the lovelie^ frocks of the season. In your city, they may he secured through an exclusive I. M ille r ’ representative.

T h e id e a o f F a s h io n s in F o o tw e a r , i n t r o d u c e d b y 1 . M i l l e r , h a s c a p t iv a t e d A m e r i c a , r e q u i r i n g t h i s n e i v F a d lo ry , th e la r g e s t 'o f its k in d in th e w o r ld . I n c] u i r i e s • f r o m r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s h o e s h o p s a r e s o l i c i t e d .

W holesale HenrfcjuariersO N E C A R L T O N A V E N U E

B R O O K L Y N , N . Y',I . M I L L E R & S O N SI N C O K O R A T E D

Retail Headtiiinrtcrs 5 6 2 F I F T H A V E N U E

N E W Y 'O R K C I T Y '


32H A R P E R ' S B A Z A R H O T E L a n d T R A V E L S E R V I C E

Autumn in EUROPE

A T R U L Y delightful til l \ o f year to go abros

Itime__ year to go abroad!

Social seasons are ushered in, the opera opens in Paris, the Riviera comes to life.

Days at sea are exhilarating— and you may enjoy every travel comfort, a faultless service and luxurious environment on the splendid ships o f the United States Lines. The magnificent Leviath an — largest ship in the world — sails every three weeks to Southampton and Cherbourg. Frequent sailings to Plymouth, Southampton, Cherbourg and Bremen by the famous first class vessels George Washington, President Harding and President Roosevelt.

Send the Coupon Nowfor illustrated booklets giving full information and description o f the unsurpassed accommodations on these great U. S. Government ships.

U n it e d Sta tes Lines

4 5 B r o a d w a y N e w Y o r k C ity

Agencies in ail principal cities M a n a g in g O p er a to rs fo r

U. s. SHIPPING BOARD M ail This Coupon Noiv

I N F O R M A T I O N B L A N K T o U . S . S h ip p in g B o a r d

I n f o r . S e c - 2 fi9 6 W a s h in g to n . D . C ,Please send without obligation the literature giving navel facta. Including the booklet

Economy Trips to Europe. If I go date will

be about. persona in my partyf la m e

Addrtib

ZVuiK .

. . There will be

W H E R E T H E T O M - T O M BEATS, B E N E A T H T H E STARS

H O T E L ST. JA M E S1 0 0 -1 1 3 W e s t 4 5 t h S t . , N e w Y o r k C it y

M id w a y b e t w e e n P K ih A v e n u e a n d B r o a d w a yAn hotel o l quiet dlgoJty, havlug the atiaos-

Eberc and appolDlmentd o i & well-conditioned ome.

M uch lavored b y women travellue without escort. 3 minutes’ walk to 40 theatres and all best ebops. Raus and bookUi on appllcalion.

W . JOHNSON QUENN

t N M I C H A E L A R L E N ’S A a m u s i n g a n d i n d i s c r e e t n o v e l, " P ir a c y ,” h e w rites a b ou t a h u sb a n d w h o v is its “ ex trem ely fo re ig n c o u n tr ie s .” A n d to all o f u s a t t im e s c o m e s th a t lo n g in g fo r “ e x t r e m e l y f o r e i g n cou n tr ie s ” som eth in g th a t w e h a v e n ev er seen b e fo re — som eth in g th at w e h a v e n ev er k n o w n b e fore .

T h ere is o n e ex trem ely fore ig n c o u n tr y th a t has su d d e n ly b lo s som ed fo r th w ith aU th e c o m fo r ts an d con v e n ie n ce s o f tra ve l th at th e m ost fa s tid iou s o f tra v elers cou ld ask a n d y e t th a t re ta in s a ll i t s a llu rin g a n d ex trem e ly fo re ig n fa scin ation s— A fr ic a — N o r th e rn A fr ica .

O n e ca n m o to r n o w fr o m A lg ie rs t o T u n is , t h r o u g h t h e A fr ic a n d esert, th rou g h p r im it iv e a n d p ictu resq u e (a n d d irty ) K a b y le v illa g es , th rou g h scen e r y w h o se co lo r , seem s t o h a v e b e e n la id o n b y s o m e color-rn ad F u tu r ist a n d y e t s ta y fo r the n ig h t a t m o d e m h ote ls w ith la rg e , a iry room s , b a th s , ex ce lle n t co o k in g , s tea m h ea t— e v e r y th in g th a t o u r p a m p e re d m o d e m senses d em a n d .

H e re is in d eed a t r ip th a t w ill a n sw er e x a c t ly a n y m a n ’ s o r ' w o m a n ’ s c ra v in g fo r som eth in g e x tre m e ly fore ig n . I shall b e d e lig h ted t o g iv e y o u th e c o m p le te d eta ils . S im p ly w r ite to A d e lin e S n app ,

TRAVEL SERVICE of HARPER’S BAZAR1 1 9 W E S T 40T H S T R E E T , N E W Y O R K

EU RO P E B Y M O T O RInclusive rates for trips or cars for hire any period. Itineraries planned by travel experts or arranged to order for England and Che Continent.

W riU fo r Booklet A w l k m opsF R A N C O -B E L G IO U E T O U R C O .

Ltd. (American Company)157 W est 42nd S t.. New YorkLondon Paris Brussels Naples

Kew Gardens InnKEW GARDENS. L. I.

A couDtry rerid euClal botel o f dignity and charm, within Greater New Y ork . Eighteen minutes from Peonaylvanla Station. Golf, tennis. P b o a e R ich m o n d H ilt 3892.

The Questionsthe Woman-Who’s'Going

Asksthe Woman-Who’s-Been

H O W e a g e r ly t h e y d is c u s s a h u n d r e d -

a n d - o n e q u e s t io n s — th is W o m a n - W h o ’ s - G o i n g a n d t h is W o m a n - W h o ’ s - B e e n .

“ W h a t i s a g o o d h o t e l ? — ’n o t t o o f r i g h t f u l l y e x p e n s iv e , y o u k n o w . ” . - “ A n d w h a t m u s t I s e e ? ”. . . “ A n d w h a t s o r t o f c l o t h e s ? ”

B u t i f y o u a r e p la n n in g a t r ip , a n d k n o w n o W o m a n - W h o ’ s - B e e n , w o n ’ t y o u l e t m e t a k e h e r p l a c e ? M y j o b , y o u k n o w , is t o g i v e t r a v e l a d v i c e — t h e s o r t o f a d v i c e o n e w o m a n w a n t s f r o m a n o t h e r .

N o m a t t e r w h e t h e r i t ’ s in t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s a n d C a n a d a o r a n y w h e r e a b r o a d I f e e l t h a t I m a y b e o f d e f in i t e s e r v i c e t o y o u — a b o u t s t e a m s h ip l in e s a n d r a t e s , a b o u t r a i l r o a d s , a b o u t h o t e l s , b o t h lu x u r io u s a n d o f m o d e r a t e p r i c e , e t c . , e t c .

S im p ly a d d r e s s y o u r t r a v e l in q u ir ie s ( a n d t h e m o r e d e t a i l s t h e b e t t e r ) t o A d e l i n e S n a p p ,

T R A V E L SERVICE of HARPER’S BAZAR1 19 W e s t 4 0 * Street; N E W YORK

A


33

H A R P E R ' S B A Z A I A H O T E L a n d T R A V E L S E R V I C E

T O T H E G A T E W A Y P O R T S O F T H E W O R L D

’B a t a v i a , Qatcway to Java...Isle o f m ystery. A n cien t tem ples o n plains, in jungles, o n peaks. W h a t ancients b u ilt so grandly? H o w ? W h y ? . . . Java, isle o f paradise. L ov e ly verdu re an d w aterfalls. R u b b e r p lantations. C ities like parks, shops

w h ere ba tik -w ork is d o n e . Bazars offerin g carven ceakw ood . G racefu l dan cin g girls. Java, h o m e o f the B uitenzorg B otan ical G ardens, w h ere orch ids grow 1000 b lossom s at a tim e, a n d strange plants r io t in beauty. Java, the isle w ith a spell.

| l i y o u h a v e t h e e x p e r i e n c e s u p r e m e ?

Et V E R Y year, a handful o f travelers have the experience supreme. B u t only a handful. T h ey are the com pany w hich ships one day

on a C anadian Pacific Em press.W h en they return, they are new people. H appy

in health. G low in g w ith adventure. Laden w ith treasures from far-off bazars. Expanded in personality to the breadth o f the earth.

For, they’ve voyaged to the G atew ay,P orts o f the W orld . W h at m agic in the ph rase ! W hat magic in the experience! Sailing along, as i f in a floating country club. C om es a star o n the map. A G atew ay Port. In to the harbor, and o ff fo r exp lo ratio n ... Shopping in the bazars. M ingling in the streets. O u t to som e tom bs, to som e deserted tow n w hich reconstructs a thousand years o f history. . .Then, o n again, over the seven seas, to the next G atew ay Port, the next rom antic experience.

A lgiers, Egypt, H oly Land, India, Ceylon , China.Canadian Pacific has arranged these ports into

several voyages. T h e ship is Canadian Pacific— an Em press liner. T h e service is Canadian Pacific— luxurious living. T h e guidance is Canadian Pacific — “ it spans the w orld .”

W here these gateway ports are, w hat they lead to, how the cruises are arranged— all is told in fascinating literature. W rite, phone, call offices listed below . Personal service i f desired.

C R U I S E E X T R A O R D I N A R Y R O U N D - T H E - W O R L D

fr o m N e w Y o rk , January 14th, 130 days, in c lu d in g 53 fa r sh ore trips, w ith o v er la n d trips t o Jerusalem an d C a iro , to P eking, R etu rn ing v ia H aw aii, V a n co u v e r , S an F rancisco, Panam a. “ Empress ofF rance." (C h o s e n fo r tw o voyages b y L o rd R e n fre w — Prince o f W ales .)

M E D I T E R R A N E A N C R U I S E

fr o m N ew Y o rk , F ebruary 9th , 62 days. “ Empress o f Scotland.” (H er fo u rth cruise in these w aters.)

C A N A D I A N P A C I F I C C R U I S E SA t l a n t a , 49 N .F orsytt S t . . B o s t o n , 40 5Boylston St.- B u f f a l o , 160 Pearl St.- C h i c a g o , 7 1 E,Jackson Blvd. . C i n c i n n a t i , zo i Dixie Term . BlSg. • C l s v e l a n d , 1040 Prospect Avc. D e t r o i t , ii39G risw olJ5i. • D u l u t h , Soo LineD epot • K a n s a s CiTV , 6 0 1 Ry. E x e b . Bldg. • L o s A n g e l e s , 605 So. SpringSt. ■ St . L o u is ,4i o LocustSt. ■ M i n n e a p o l i s , 6 1 1 and A vc. . 8 0 .N e w Y o B K , ! 4 » M a d i s o n A v e , . P m L A n E L P i i i A , L o c u s t S t , a t 1 5 1 b • P i T T S S t i R O H , J 4 0 6 t b A r c . ■ P o r t l a n d , O r e . , S S - j r d S t , • S a n F r a n c i s c o , 67s M a r k e t S i , - S e a t t l e , 6 0 8 a n d A r e , T a c o m a , I I I ? P a c i C c A v e , • W a s h i n g t o n , D . C . , 1 4 1 9 N . y , A v e , • I N C A N A D A M o n t r e a l , 1 4 1 S t . J a m e a S t . . S t . J o h n , N . B . , 4 0 K i n g S t . ■ W i n n i p e g , 3 6 4 M a i n • T o r o n t o ,

I K i n g S t . , E - . V a n c o u v e r , C a n a d i a n P a c i f i c R . R . Sii.— O ^ifiand jtgfn ii Everywhere.


L a n d T R A V E L S E R V I C E H

Hinder anArabJWccnIO N G white walls and slim brown tree trunks,

j fronds above that move . . . and are still. Water that ripples and whispers. Drifting fragrance of hidden flowers. Doors—leading to mystery. Over it all, the sky— blue as no northern sky was ever blue — drowned in liquid gold, warm with a drowsiness that takes a lifetime’s tension from you. You don’ t need to be efficient anym ore. This is North Africa.

Spin along the hard white roads above the Mediterranean, all a-dazzle under the sun. Shop for magic carpets, gorgeous leathers, rainbow silks. Hear the flutes in the starlight, and watch the dancing girls, the h o ly m en, the sn ak e ch arm ers, the fa n tasias of the East!Twenty-six hours from Europe— and Europe^ is sixdays from America. You step on board a French Liner in New York and are under French_ Line management until you see the Statue of Liberty again. Steamships, hotels, motor cars to runyou right out into the Sahara. All guaranteed by those red funnels with black tops that stamp the service sterling.

fifpenehiltvBC om p agn ie G en eta le Transatlantique, 1 9 State S treet, N ew Y o r k

C o m e Cho

KENILWORTH INNin ifie Jand o f tfie S f y

"V T A T U R E 'S P A R A D IS E w ith m an-m aae oom - G / N forts and conven iences to please end eniertaui the bixiinesft m an and his fam ily .

K E N IL W O R T H IN N jo in ed hands w ith naw ra to Jive discruninadnfe p eop le an ideal resort. A i l the m odern con ven ien ces and nicccies o f iite ixi an atm osphere o f refinem ent. Y o u w ill b e im pressed w ith the rea l e l^ a n ce , the freed om fro m restramt, and the hom e-lihe. fr ien d ly atmos phere that prevails.

T h e room s are la r je en d a iry w ith d ou b le w in d ow s, am ple clothes closets en d private baths.

Pure sparW inJ w ater fto m M t. M itchell. C ool n ijK ts are aver present.

E xceptionol d in tn j room service. W h olesom e and a p e t iiin j Southern m eals prepared b y th ose sk illed in the art o f cooH n J . S erved in a spaoioua, ^iass-enciosed d in in j r o o m in a cou rteou s and pleas- i n j manner.

G oItiT enm s.H orsfr-B aokE idiiiJ iM nsie. D ancing and other a llu r in j d ivers ion s fo r lov ers o f the outdoors.

C O M E S P E N D A M O N T H O R A W E E K E V E N A S T O P -O V E R W I L L M A K E

Y O U A R E G U L A R V IS IT O R IVrtle fo r infereiHny Lileraiare Concern/n? Kcnllieorlh

Inn an J lh e W oniers o f W eilcrn N orth Carolina

K E N IL W O R T H I N N - SiUm ore. V’C- C.N ea r .4jAei;ii/c

,.r-

'SO^Annivcrsary Cruise deJdaxc

TO THE TOedtlcmnFM)(L im ite d t o 400 G u ests— Less th a n H a lf C a p a city )

B y M aBnificent N ew

Cunard S. S. “ SCYTHIA”(B uilt 1921) O il Burner, 2 0 ,0 0 0 Tons

Sailing Jan- 29 , 1 92 5— 6 0 D aysT his Cruise, celebrating our G olden Jubilee, we plan to feature above all other Cruises, even surpassing ou r previous successful Cruises b y the same steamer.

Egypt—PalestineM a d e ir a , S p a in , G ib r a l t a r , A lg ie r s , T u n is , C o n s t a n t in o p le . G r e e c e , I t a ly , S ic i ly , R iv ie r a , M o n t e C a r lo , F r a n c o , E n g la n d

T h e “ S cyth ia” is a veritable floating palace, w ith spacious decks, lou n g^ , veranda caf^s, tw o elevators, gym nasium , com m od iou s stateroom s with funning water and large w ardrobes; bedroom s and suites w ith private toaths. T b r fam on 4 Piinard oinsine and service. (O n ly on e sitting fo r tneals.)T h e fam ous C u nard cuisine and service.

p c w ith o u t e x t r a coat, ret urn I cut via S. S.*• O f an y C u n ard L in e Steam er.S top 'O ver prlvilefte in E u rop e w ith o u t e x i

“ A q u it a n la / ' 'M a u re ta n ia . “ Bercn^tarla,Rates, deck plana, itioerarv and full information on rc<iucat.

Early reservation losucce choice o f location.

A lso E u rop ea n T o u rs

FRAN K TO U RIST CO.542 F ifth Avenue. N ew Y o rk

219 S o. 15th St., Philadelphia 582 M arket St., San F ran cisco

F u from Pacifi' all o Indue Q ue., S t .; R in g cou v e dian Static M an . B o s to

' B oy la 111., B ou l. C al., S t .; h C orni a n d 4 phia, a t 1 Pa.. San 675 L ou is St,

CjCEst. 1 S75)Ayuntamiento de Madrid

35

H A R P E R ' S B A Z A P v H O T E L a n d T R A V E L S E R V I C E

C H P N A

F u l l in form ation from a n y C anadian P a cific agen t— offices all o v er th e w orld . In c lu d in g M on trea l, Q u e ., 141 S t . Jan ies S t .; T o r o n to , O n t.i 1 K in g S t ., E a s t ; V a n c o u v e r , B . C.p C a n ad ia n P a cific R a ilivay S ta tion ; W in n ip eg , M a n ., 36 4 M a in S t .; B o s to n , M a ss ., 405 B o y ls to n S t .; C h ica go , i l l . , 71 E a st Jackson B o u l.; L o s A ngeles, C a l., 605 S . Spring S t .; N e w Y o r k , N . Y „ C o m e r M a d iso n A v e . a n d 4 4 th S t .; P h iladelph ia , P a ., L o cu s t St. a t 15 th ; P ittsbu rgh , P a „ 33 8 S ix th A v e .; San F ra n cisco , C a l., €75 M a rk e t S t .; St. L ou is , M o ., 420 L ocu st St,

H o n g K o n gthe n e w W inter R esort

November, December, January and the first half of February— Hong Kong weather would make Los Angeles jealous!

Here is the Gibraltar of the East. Here is the white man’s Riviera of the Orient. Here is Miami and White Sulphur and San Diego all in one.

Here is Golf at Fan-ling, Deep Water B ay, and Happy Valley. And horse racing where East rubs elbows with West and bets on the same favorites. In many different tongues. Here are wonderful motor roads. Here is the rendezvous of yachts. Here one walks, or takes a ricksha or a sedan chair.

Here one climbs the Peak to see the sun set over Asia. Gorgeous end of the Eastern day. Then quick tropic night, and lights in the harbor, lights on the city slopes, stars in the sky. Mysterious. The new night breeze whispering of strange things and strange philosophies. . .

Smart, cosmopolitan society. Interesting people from everywhere. Who’ve been everywhere.

A trip up the river to Canton, where two hundred thousand Chinese live in houseboats, and hoist sail and move away when tired of the neighborhood. Canton, Capital of Silk. Where the agricultural college is breeding better silkworms.

Visit the Orient this winter. Go on a Canadian Pacific E m p ress from Vancouver. Finest,fastestand largest ships on the Pacific. And it costs no more on these big ships.

Make an E m p ress tour of the Orient— cheaper than staying at home. Liberal stopover privileges and interchange of passage with other lines. Ask the nearest Canadian Pacific agent for full particulars.

C a n a d i a n P a c i f i cI T S P A N S T U B W O R L D

T A J M A H A LW h e r e W e s t b ow s to th e culture o f th e O rien t. T o m b oC A ^ ra con«tructe«I in 16 2 9 -5 0 by S hoh Jehdn c s a m em oria l to fii j w ife- T h is m agni/icenC structure is co n ced ed to h e th e tvorld 's outstan d in g orch itectura l trium bb-

that leads to the Remote 'Beauties of the WorldT h e w orld is m ine“ said M onte Cristo. So m ay you say, too— if you join this joyous pilgrimage to the distant places that reveal their wonders only to the adventurous wanderers.

Transport yourself into the midst o f the austere beauty o f Japan, the ancient charm o f China, the bewildering babble o f India, the stirring mystery o f Egypt, the languorous moodiness o f Italy.

T h en fetter your imagination for a mom ent and be as practical as possible. Conceive yourself living on the B elgenland— that delightful liner. See yourself surrounded w ith every luxury that the w it o f m an has contrived. See yourself living in greatest ease— all the more eager and ready to accept the challenge o f adventure that greets you at every interesting port on this alluring cruise.

Fascinating trips ashore under the masterly guidance o f the A m erican Express Co.

Fadls A bout the CruiseBeJeenland—largest liner ever t o circle th e g lob e , leaving N e w Y o r k D ecem ber 4 , 1 9 2 4 , sailing w estw ard via Los A ngeles (D e ce m b e r 2 0 ) a n d San Francisco (D e ce m b e r 2 3 ) .T o 6 0 cities in 14 cou ntries, ea ch at a season de ligh tfu l fo r travel there. 2 8 ,3 1 0 m iles. 133 days. B a ck in N e w Y o rk A p r il 1 6 , 1925.

A p p ly fo r beautifu lly illustrated b ook le ts w h ich answ er every q u estion o n w o r ld cruises. R e d Star L in e , N o . 1 B road w ay , A m erica n Express C om p a n y , N o . 6 5 B roa d w a y , N e w Y o rk , o r o th er offices o r agencies o f either com p an y .

D S t a r U n e i^W H I T E S t a r L i m e A M E R I C A N L i n eI N T E A N A T I O N A I . M E R C A N T I1 .B M A R I N E C O M P A N V

i n c o o p e r a t i o n w i t h

AMERICAN EXPRESS COMPANY


ELEVENEUROPEAN

SCHOOLSw e listed in th is issue o f H a rp er ’s Bazar. W e are in a p os ition t o b e o f real service in the m a tter o f selectin g a fore ign sch oo l. W r ite t o the S ch oo l D ep a rtm en t, 1 1 9 W e s t 40 thSt., N - Y . C.

Lycee Jaccard bo'y sIL a u s a n n e ( S w i t z e r l a n d )

P reparatioa toz A m erican C ollege XTni- versity Exam inations. Business Course,Languages, Sum m er Course. B e t i eo u ip fted

( r y O rganized Athletics. W rite

t c h o o f en th e c eu n tKw r i t e

M a r i u s J a c c a r d

G e n e v aEnaltsb School, T h e happleet, healthiest life for hoys under fourteen. Tboroiigh prepflraiJoii for preparatory schooto under English and Irench masters- cjire. Addreee ,C a m * E j . Fox . Chateau Riant. Avenue D Aire,

Geneva. Swlierland,

L E S H I R O N D E L L E SFirst class flnlahlog school tor Bula. Specially constructed house, beautifully situated. Every modern comfort, American course. LMguagea, Principals. M adem obellb Mion, Miss D anikls,

C b a m p e l. G eneva, Sw ltzcrlaDd.

AR O U N D T H E W O R LD 1925N lalb Tour 51750 and up, Ralllnff S. S. CulUornIa Jan 20 Tou r Europe on return if de&retl. be- Icci party conducted by M » e E lu a p e ts persons. (A B W ells College: A. M . Johns Hophlos)

Address: Annapolis. Maryland

F O R E I G N T R A V E L S C H O O Llor Blrla An unusual opportunity to study tbs Arts with EuroDsah cuunirlos as a bachsrounn. Rom e, Florence. Paris, London. Personally oon- d u ctr i by (ormer Hesrtrelstress o l A i^rlcan School Write Mias Lilias S. B ill, 114 E , Walton Place, Chicago. 111.

S C H O O L O F S T U D Y a n d T R A V E LFLOREN CE. IT A L Y

FO R A M E RICA N G IR L S . In d lv ld i^ develoii- rncnt. Breadth o f boeksround. A n , Music, Lan-

?Lia£es rreoaratory and advanced oouraee. Sports, ravel. Write for circular to Sec., School a ^

Travel lor American Olrla, 524 E . Arrellaga bt., Santa Barbara. Calif.

T h e F O N T A IN E SCHOOL C annee m ce

study and Travel. Cultural, Plnlsblre and College Pren. courses. Rporlfl. Reslnenl and-lJ&y Studeuts. Address Director. Miss M a rle^ ^ u leo Fouialno.A tsu tcM .^ . .c c i o r , m u w m w k ic ,Care o f W omen's City Club, 2 2 Park Ave., New

r villa Montmorency, Cannes, A. M.,York City: or ’ France.

FRENCH EDUCATIONAL HOMEFor Clrls Lausanne, SwitzerlandFrench, Music, LltaraTurc, History o f Art,

Number o f pupils hm lwd to ten.Hfj, G. Schmder, La Roseraie. Chemin de Jutifot

Miss M A C LEAN’ S PARIS SCHOOLlor American Girl* 51 Avenue MarceauNinth year. Number pupils limited l o eight. Six months' study in Fans: two months’ travel- rO t catalog, address: M iss Cuaibb Kbt.I/OGO,56 W cat 50lb Street New Y ork City

S W I T Z E R L A N D I n s t i t u t i o n d e h E s s a r t h

Chateau He la Veraye, , , (Founded io 1S74. Complotrly rwt«ai»)»«d in l«t>

Hitth*Cls89 Board!nil School for GirlsI w e d 10 lf> Day boertJew i c c ^ U

T E R R I T E T - M O N T R E U X < Lake o l G enev«>SDccial Study of the French Uinffoage ana 1lter»Wr«. Asoryof Af Modern

I sttosuiehed Edaceflen.Elisb^lue referoocee Riven and deelred.

P a r t i

“ There is nothing a man loves and honors so much next to a good mother— <jj- a good school.”

Ar e you still seeking ju st the right school for your son? A school where he will associate with other

boys whose refining home infiuence has imbued them

with high ideals ? Where masters are in sym pathy with

the problems of adolescent youth and where each pupil is given individual consideration? In short, have you

found the school which your own children will learn to

love and honor?

Although it is very late in the season, there are still

a number of schools whose registration, due to the

uncertainty of the times, is not quite complete. We know these schools and have personally visited them.

I f the school question is still very much of a problem in your home or in the home of a friend, we shall be very

glad to help you and, of course, without financial obligation of any kind on your part. I t is our earnest desire to

serve the readers and friends of Harper’ s Bazar and if

we can help you select the proper school for your children, do not hesitate to write for information. Address

your letter to

D IR E C T O R

H A R P E R ’S B A Z A R SCH O O L D E P A R T M E N T ,

l i g W est 40th Street, New Y o rk City.

Ne

T E A S D A L E R E S I D E N C E326 We»t 80th St. Riverside Drive

Tel, Endieett7856

SCO^

1006 Fifi paein

C o m p le tp a r a te r y

Resi<Home api stimulate vantages For cats!

M iss I

For Girl Students ar»d Yoong Womenwho com e to N<nT Y ork to pursue courses 01

study and for a social season.French TutoringChaperonege—Booklet

The Co01 Home Mah lar course one

BOX B, I

N ew Y o r k —Girls

NEW YO RK COLLEGIATE INSTITUTEM I S S M A R Y S C H O O N M A K E R ’ S D A Y S C H O O L f o r G I R L S

R eopen s Tuesday, October 7lh . . ^345 W est E nd A venu e, N ew Y o r k B etw een 76th and 77th Streets

nrcosratlon tor college. Elomeatarr, Aeademlc and Special Courses. Oral FrebCh iQ I S 2 I S fid ? H M lSratlon ot pupils aud number la class limited. Correct posture o l pupils an e m S la J In bhyskflUralnlng. Tbotougb supervision o l the work by the Principal constitutes an important leature of the St.te of Now York

99tS . BoStocU ’3 IBlESitiencE

344*346 W . 84th Street o t Riverside Drive

N ew YorkA delightful home for girls Attending any s c h o o l , college or studio. Open all year. Registrations now for ip24-2S< Elective chaperonage. Ninth year. Telephone Endi- cott 7653 - Catalogue.

ROSE TREE— P ort WashUlglon, Long iHltiiicl 37 minutes from Ponna. Station, A coumiocUou^ private home for a few girl students, S|)ecl!il department, In conn(*ctlnn with nearby private school, for children from 8 to 1 2 . Reside ol trained nurse, wholesome borne ATtnospherc' Address Mrs. 8 . A . BuJIock. Shore Rd-. Port W'asL* ingtoii, N, V.

F R E N C H H O M E S C H O O LPlanned excluolvely for girls pursuing special studies In New York. Exceptional opportunities for Froncb.MI$S MACINTYRE or MULE. TALGUEN

320 W. 107th St., New York City Rivereldo Drive

?lttract(ve iRew 1l3omeE N L A R G IN G T H IS Y E A R

Bel den ResidenceTelephone E udlcctc 0016

For Girl StudeniB. Cbaocronage It desired. For booklet, address

Miss Belden 391 West End Avs., New Yerk

N ew Y o rk — Girls

T h e S e m p l e S c h o o l ]

1 3 O a r D IN G and Duj' J-> School for fflrls. oj)pn>- aite Cnutral Park, CoUcits Prc para tory ,Pf)stGniduuti?i SpcclnlandFlnlslilnc Courses Interior Decorating. Sccic* tahal and D oincetk Science O0UCM8. Langimgcs. Ari, Music, Dramatic -trl. So-: clal Life. Outdoor Sporia; For Catalogue uddrofis

M rs. T . Darrlngton Bemplc, Principal, B ok »-u 241 and 242 Central Park Wcat. Now Y'ork CllyP

T H E B R O W N S O N SC H O O LCatholic Boarding and D ay School for OlrlajCollege Preparatory and Plulshlug CourseîFrench tho languogo o f tho house. i

M rs. A tw ood V lo lc tt :22-24 East 111st S treet, Now York,

TH E FINCH SCHOOL

TH E R A 'Removed t

Rosk Oollege 1

Clara 320 Blversldi

E C O LA French 9cirusôg the Itb a compl rench. Cot .n. Mme. J.

Gar11 ZA

g y CO,m eth

advantsg

i i D R EiT h c Coxme lo ien elda- Icourscs. (I lAtldetics.

DR. CiB ox 602

P U T N

61 East 77tli S treet N ew Y o rk CityA Boarding and D ay Sobool for Girls, empbasistofi puat'Sraduate work.

A country aSleeping Âddress,. Box 80S, P i

HIGlTarry town- try board In Including J

E co i

®sslAcademic, lecrctorlul Ichool (or miles from Prln., Box

CatheGarc

B ox “ B

HWhite's

tnlles frur school for tory. CoAyuntamiento de Madrid

37

P a r t i c u l a r S c h o o l s f o r P a r t i c u l a r P e o p l e A r e in H a r p e r s B a z a r

N ew Y o rk — Girls

SCOViLLE SCHOOLF or Girls

1006 F i f lh A v e n u e , N e w Y o r k C ity F a c in g C e n tr a l P a r k a n d t h e

M u s e u m o f A r t

C o m p /e te A o a d e m lc , C o l l e g e P r e - p a r a ie r y a n d A d v a n c e d S lu d iea

R e s id e n t a n d D a y P u p ilsH om e and school life in a congenial and stim ulating environm ent. U nusual advantages in M usic a n d D ra m a tic A rt. F or catalogue, address

M iss R o s a B . C h ism an , F rin cifa l

T h e C o m m o n w e a l t h S c h o o ln i Hnme Malting and Community Subjects, negu- lirSluTM on e i& r . Also part t lm ecou r«s

Box B , 136 E . 66t t St., N ew Y ork City.

T H E R A Y S O N S C H O O L F O R G IR L SRemoved to beauUIul residence on the Drive.

Resident and Day Departments.CollBSe PreDarawry and senend courses.

30th year ocujbra-, 1924.B CI.4RA I . COLBtlllRE, A .B , ptlnc^^palr32C Riverside DrlVA Com er o l 104lh bt., N . x.

E C O L E F R A N C A I S E

> lt b a complete education. Clsaaes Irench . Courses In modern languages, music and art. Mme. J. A . RIEFFBL, 1 2 East 9o tt S t , N . Y .C .

Gardner School11 E A S T 51st S T ., N E W Y O R K

B y com b in in g th e m o st progressive m eth ods o f ed u ca tion , th e cu ltura l

adva n tages o f N e w Y o r k , a n d th e p o p u t o fornrs o f o u t 'd o o r recrea tion , th e G ardner S ch oo l p rov id es girls w ith a n idea l b a ^ s o f e d u c a t i o n .S ch oo l Hom<

T h e—ju st

o f f F ifth A venue - ^ 8 d is t in ct iv e f o r i t s b e a u t y a n d sun- p U city .C ou rses fo r ell ages.

S ix ty -e ig h th year.Miss EltlHQO Miss Masland Prif>.

D R E W S E M I N A R YI courses. (Soparate buUding for Junior School.) I At2i I et! cs 5^lh year. For catalog,I DR. C l .<RENCB M cClellxkd,I bo x 602 Carmel, N - Y .

P U T N A M H A L L S C H O O LlAcouniryKh” fmcity^lmna?'3am'pU9 0ffourM^^

■ Box 893. Poughkeepsie N .Y .

Cathedral School of Saint MaryGarden City, Long Island, New York

B ox " B ” MlillASI A . BVTEL, PrlDClpnl

N ew Y o rk —Girls

SCU D D ER‘a M o d e r n S c h o o l f o r t h e M o d e r n G i r l

DORMITOBV LIVE UNDER H IE SUPERVISION O f ACCOMPLISHED SOCIAL DIRECTORS. UNK3UE COMBINATION OF CULTURAL AND PRACTICAL COURSES FOR OLDER OIRLS.

High School— C oW ege preparatory and finishing courses. Regents.

S c u d d e r S c h o o l o f M usic—16 M aster-arnst instructors. V oice, and all m usical instrumeals.

A dvanced courses o f special - ' interest t o h ig h s c h o o l and college graduates.

S c h o o l o f S e c r e tarial and £®ec«ft'tie Training— W idely know n for the success o f its graduates in responsible positions. The Hedson from

Write fo MISS H. B. SCUDDER, Registrar

School o f Household A rts — One- year course in hom cmaking with diploma.

School o f Social W elfare and Com m unity Service— A course o f cxcep-

tional im portance, Q assroom in - ' ■ slru ction , and actual field w ork

under supervision, in clubs, settlem ents, recreation

centers, e tc . "H a vin g ta k en this course the

stu den t goes back to h er hom e equipped foreffectiveleader- shlp in church, club ana commutiity.

Hors«bek Ridios,Sw im niiiig,G yniiiiS(um

. . . , Ontdoflr SporUthe School Windows

244 W. 72nd Street, New York City

C a s t l eJ- M is s M a s o n ’s S c h o o l O i r l s

Dox W2.T.rrylDwA-on-hud«on.NewW»rk

n o b l e s c h o o lF o r G ir ls f r o m 6 t o 14

K A T H L E E N N O B L E J E R O M E W h it e P la in s , N e w Y o r k

f a i t h s s c h g d l.4 Counlry* School fw O itls

C ollege P reparatory , H o m e S cien ce . M u sic, V oca tion a l G u id a n ce , Atnlcticse

ExotDeni aivantasts a t m cicra tt cost.R ev . Chas. H . L . FoRb, Saratoga, N . Y .

M A R Y M O U N TSCHOOL FOR OIRLS

COLLEGE FOR WOMENChartered by Uie Regeuts o l the L'Dlversity o l the State o l N ew Y ork with power to coaler di^reea. W rite lor Catalogue to Ttio R.everend Mother.Tarryt«w n-en-H udson New York

#a]^!smcre M R S . M E R R I L L ’ S S C H O O L

f o r G I R L S

R e o p e n s f o r t h e N i n e t e e n t h Y e a r

T u e s d a y , O c t o b e r 7 t h , 1 9 2 4

AddrcssM R S . M E R R I L L

O R I E N T A P O IN T M A M A R O N ’ E C K , N . Y .

HIGHLAND MANOR•TarrytowuHDn-IIudaon, N . Y . Non-awtarlan coun- ■Iry boardii^ acbool for girls. All gradea and courses, ■includlne Junior Ccllcgc and Music.

ECQBNE II, LfBltMAN, DlTeCCOt, BOX B.

- © ssin in g ^ cfioo l for arislA cadem lc, Colleso Preu., Art, Music, D ^ A t l c s Isccrctarla l aud H om e MAkliig. Ouursca. .^ P h ia ic I bcIiooI lor youDB girls. B r h u y i ' i ' ? (rn Im llos Ironi N . Y . 50th year. C L A R A C. FO LL LR , IPrkn.. B ox U-B, Os^nliig-on-Hudaon, W. i .

K N O X /S & & ? s 'A S c h o o l c f A m e r i c a n I d e a l sI n a C o u n tr y o f J I m e r i c e n Traditmns

IN T E N S IV E C O L L E G E P R E P A R A T O R YA d v a n ced A ca d e m ic Courses with Diploma

C U L T U R A L A N D V O C A T IO N A L COURSESHealthful and varied CAitdoOT l ife

Riding Rowing. Tennis, Field Sports,Skating. Skiing, Mid Winter Cainiyal

Lower Khool tor girl, from nine to thirteen Modern Fireproof Building*

Ilhislralcd BookftU or Caiahs on Rc^uesL Mrs. Russell Houghton. Box B. Cooperitown, N. Y.

D O N G A N H A L LA C ou n try S chool overlookin g N ew

Y o rk H arbor.C ollege Preparation- General Course,

A rt, M usic- F iclds fo r varie ty o f sports. R iding.

Emroa Barber Turnbaeh, A . B ., F rin d ta l B ox H . D ongan H ills, Staten Island. N . Y .

H E W L E T T S C H O O LI W hite’s Lane, Cedarhurst, L . I.. N . Y . Twenty Imiles Irom New York City. D ay and boarding lachool tnr girls. Primary through college Drcpara- I tory . Couuiry lllo with outdoor sports.

K S C H O O L O F L O Y A L T R A D I T I O N S W I T H M O D E R N S P I R I T

College Preparation. Academic, Home Efficiency, and P w t Graduate Courses. Junior School. New York Advantages. New Model Swimming Pool-

O ssip G a b r il o w its c h . A rtistic A d viser t o the M usic D epartm ent Taw Sic k e s z D irector o f the M u sic D epartm en t . .CiURLBS ’W . H a w t h o r n e , N .A ., D irector o f the A rt D epartm ent

F or f/fn jlraleii Circular, a p f ly lo M RS. E D ITH COOPER H.ARTM.AN, B.S., Principal, Briarcliff Manor, New \ork

N ew Y o rk — Co-ed.

S T O N E H E N G EB rew ster N ew Y o rkA home ecbool la the beautiful hills o f ^ ta a m County oaJy 50 miles from X cw York. H ere a llmiteu number o f younger children arc given the educational advantages o i a goveroess in a rean»ome environment. . ,

L ove o f clilWrcn, wltb a knowledge o f dlcictlcjs and nursing, Insure happy Rrowlng days.

H appy H ours K indergartenFor cbUdreo from 3 to Q years o f age. AfterncoQ play groups under special supcrvlalou for children 8 to 1 0 . Booklet OD roQUCst. M rs. M . C. W hyte,

345 W est 86tb Street, New York Oily.

M O N T E S S O R IS ch o o l fo r C h ild ren

T ra in in g C lass f o r T e a ch e rs .MRS. A . R bno M arouliss, Director,309 W est S7th St.. N ew Y ork City. (Bemocedfram 673 West End Ace.)

S T A R K E Y S E M I N A R YCo-€ducatlonal Endowed. Ages 32 and upward. N ew York Regents standards. Prepares lor c o l l i e or bualoeas. Advanced work In Art and Music. On Seueca Lake, Atbietlcss. Address,

M aattpt SUsiMERBBiei-, P b .D .. Prcs,Box 32, LakcmoQt, N . Y ,

G E N E S E E W E S L E Y A N S E M IN A R YfCo-educational) Prepares tor tbe demands of coUeee and tbe duties o f life, 20 experienced laacners. Music. Commerce. Art, Oratory. Houso- liold Arc, Small classes. In tbe hills 20 miles from Rochester. N . Y . Eudowmont and farm penult moderate rate o f $4oO. 94th year begins in September, _DR. F ka.s i M acD a-miel, President, Uraa, N . Y.

N ew Y o rk — Boys

HIGHS C H O O L

FORBOYSIkeltiin School

331 W est 7bth Street, New York CityCollege prcDttTiitOD'. 2 la t yoar. lodlvidual

inatrucUon ana small subject groups.Tel. Endlcott 3396. G. A . L. UroNNB, Heudmasier.

BERKELEY-IRVING ^**F r o m P r im a r y t o C o l l e g e ”

45th Year begins Sept. 2 otb. Small ciaesei Tboro\y?h tofitmcWon. Propurcs for college or for business. S\7taiQilng pool gymna^um building, rtiof nluyground-^dl on prcmftcs. O iiting classy. Illustrated CatoJogue. 3 l l W est 83rd St.. X . Y . C.

“ C L A s o NM // i w r y A c a d e m y

A C atholic H igh School and U nited 5 tA «s G overnm ent R . O - T . C . M em bers o f T h e A ssociation o f M ilitary Sch ools a n d Colleges o f tb e U nited States. C on du cted o y the Brothers o f Ih e Chr isHan Schools. M eets the requirem ents o f the R egen ts o f the University o f th e State o f N ew Y ork . M ilitary a n d A thletic preferences are dependent on A cadem ic standing- D eligh tfu lly situated on L on g Island Sound.

RCV. BROTHER A. JEROME, Olrertor C la s o n M ilita ry A e a d e m y . B r t m x . k o ^ ^ Crty

T e l e p l ia n e W e s t c h e s t e r z a o u

7 / ie S T O R M K I N G S c h o o lr-prcn«'l> T>« SIONU »&>tOuL. • ihST

50 mila fn m New Ycrk. 5 m llajrcm IFal Polnl.

X P rogree flive B o a r d in g S c h o o l f o r B o y s

■Whleli fostera In Fscli boy bla IndlviduaUty. uiibulltla him physically and bicreascs his mental eOlclency.

PrcparallOD tor College or Busloeas Life. R oceat graduates now in sLxteen Icodlng

colleges.A com petent teacher lor every eight boys.

Separate Lower School for boys from 9 to 1 2 . A ttractive o u td o o r life-

All sports u n d er supervision .For calaioff and Oook o f vtewc. address A LVA N E . D U E RR , H eadm aster

C orn w a ll-on -H u d son N ew Y ork


38

T h e s e S c h o o l s W i l l B e G l a d T o S e n d Y o u C a t a l o g u e s

A B o y s ' School in the HiJls o f U lster C ou n ty , N ew Y o rk . P rim ary th rou gh College Preparatory. Business course. W ork and p la y carefu lly d irected fo r th e advancem ent o f the individual b o y . A rea l b oy s ' school— active ou td oor U fo . C ata log .

Mr*. K. B. Senastaken. Registrar S36 Decatur St. Brooklyn, N. Y.

PAWLINGDr. Frederick L. Gamage, Headma.i.r Pawling New York

S t . J o h n s S c h o o lo a s m i M G - O N -H U P S O N . l«f.V,

Prem rcs Boys tor College and Biialness. Small oj4»ea. Mllluiry training. AthleciM. Separaie Bchool for boys under I.S. _ .

W ILLIAM ADDISON K a N N E Y , A .M . . P riD .

Saint John’s SchoolA Ccliege P r e p a r a t o r y School with a

military ayatem that develops TDanilness, obedience and liO D or, Burinese course. Separate school l o r y o u n g e r b o y e . Extensive campua la the hills. Wcll-plannod recreation and atbletles. Swimming pool, athletic fields. W rite t o r c a t a l o g u e . KidlDg School w idj excellent stable or hora<«.G E N E R A L W I L L I A M V E R B E C K

P r e s id e n t B o x 129 M a n l i w , N e w Y o r k

/ ^ U N T p l e a s a n tA n Historic Schoolfor Older Boys Ideally Located on the Hudson Thirty-one miles from N ew York

l l l t h Y ea r Standard C ollege Preparatory andS c i e n t i f i c C o u r s e s u n d e r E x p e r i e n c e dMasters w ho corue in to intiiuace contact w ith the Boys.C o m p le te O u td o o r a n d I n d o o r Sports.

R a te $ 7 0 0F o r ca ta lo g a n d in fo rm a tion address.*

Charles F . B rusie, P rincipa l B o x H . O ss ln ln g -o n -H u d so n , N e w Y o r k

W e s t c h e s t e r M i l i t a r y A c a d e m yOvcrlooKlug tho Hudson River at a higb elevation. Larue campus. A ll sports. Academic, ureuaratory aud hualnesa courses. Excellent staff.OKKlcrUtC. __

J\HES N eu<ion M cL tm s, Headmaster PeeksklU-on-Hudacn, New York

Tuition

W O O D L A N D S C H O O LS oy s S CO IS- In Catskills. 1500 ft. elevation. Ideal lor developing strong, manly boys, preparing for college or life. SKUne, enow-Bhoelng, skating.

Athletics. M odern hulldlnga 315 acres E rw in 5 . S p in k , A .B . , H .a d m a s t e r , P h p e n le i s .N .y .

N e w Y o l iK , Tarrytown-on-TIudson.Irving Schooi for Boys Se“ StuMtiif hisiS ie“ Irv log '' country, 88th year. 33 years under present Headmaster. Extensive erounds. M odem and complete equipment. Prepares lor all colleges and tecbnlcal echoola. Athletic field. Swimming Pool. Oymoaalum I tE V . J. M . Fu rh an , L .H .D ., Headtuaater. b ox 913.

SQ U ^^R E H O U SES A IN T JA M E S , LONG ISLAND

F i f t y r o ile e f r o m N ew Y o r k

North Shore Sound, Ono-hundred acres Held and woodland. All year normal, happy outdoor Uh for boys under 17. Expert individual teaching.

T rninlng fo r Chrietiaa Manlinesa 3. A SNELLOROVE. Director

— B u i l d i n g —

S Q U A R E B D Y 5

N ew Je rsey— Boys

A n Endowed School fo r 30 0 carefully selected hoys

Inviles Your Personal Investigationo f her claim lo excellence in

L O C A T IO N E Q U IP M E N TIN S T R U C T IO N S C H O O L S P IR IT

A T H L E T IC S

Sepacatc L ow er Sehool

F or Catalog address JO H N C . SH ARPE, L L .D .. Beaimaster Box Z B ln irstow n , N . J .

Kingsley SchooBoya' Collage Preparatory. 22 mtira from K ew York.

Upper and Lower Schools.Address: B o s B Essex Feus. N . J.

PENNINGTON SCHOOLPrepares for college, technical schools and business. Pennington's purpose Is to develop ibe com plete boy— moral, mental, pbysloal, social. Healthfully located in the hills between New York and Philadelphia. Separate Junior School— boys set persona) attention In small claasea.J 0-acre athletic field. M odem gymnasium with One swimming pool. Coliego trained masters.B e n d for booklet, “ T h e Pennington Idea.” Francis H arvey Q reea A , M ., L itt, D ,, H ead- , master,Box3Ci.Pennington,N.J. ^ 7

Founded 1838

^ P R I N C E T O NT U T O R I N G SCH OOLT h o ro u g h a n d su ccessfu l co lle g e p rep a ra tion .

Catalog, llXustraied Booklets, on RsQuesl JOHK G . HUK, “ Edgehill," FrlncetOD, New Jersey

FREEHOLD?A'gf SCHOOLfor boys 7 to 15. M odified military training— incu lca te obedience, orderlluess, self-reliance. Tbe school with the personal touch. Catalog. Address M ajor Coas . M . D unca i, B ox 92, Freehold. N . J.

B O R D E N T O W NThorough preparation for college or business.

HiHclent faculty, small oloascs. individual atcen- tloo. B oys taught b o w to study. Supervised athletics. 40th year. Catalogue. C o l . T . D . Lanpon*. Princlnai and Commandant, Drawer 0-30- B O B d E N T O W N -O K -T H E -D E L A W A R E , N . J.

W E N O N A H M IL IT A R Y ACA D E M YA high-grade Preparatory school for Boys. C oU ^ e eutrancc. Business and special courses. Ideal location. 1 2 miles from Philadelphia. W rite for Catalog and View Book to

M ajor C . M . Lobbnce, Supt.Box 442, W cnonah, N . J.

T H E O R A T O R Y S C H O O LCollege preparatory school for the sons o l gentlemen Conducted by the Oratorlan rathers. Classes taught b y com petent laymen. Preference Riven to applicants to Lower SchooL Apply Headmaster, O ept. H , Summit, N , J.

P E D D IEF or the all-around edu

cation o f manly boys. Athletic sports, 6(Vscre campus. Prepares for oil

the best colleges. M oderate rates. Forma include two Grammar ana four tUgh School Grades. 59th year. RO GER W. S W ETLAND, H ead ou»Ier, Box 9-S, HieBuiowR, N. J.

r u t o b r s p r e p a r a t o r y s c h o o lExcellent coliego preparation. ISSth year. Teachers who underatana boys. Fine school aplnt. Btrong athletics Including swimming, E om ollk e dormitories. M any cultural opportunities. ^State boy ’s age and aim. Catalogue. H , B . H ays , Registrar, N ew Brunswick, N - J,

W 1 B « * H , N E W T O N , N . J .N e w t o n A c a d e m y , a m il i t a r y c o u n t r y school lor boys. 71st year. 2 hrs. from K , Y , City. Beautiful location. IDUC ft. elevation. Thorough foundation for college or business. Individual attention. Horace and ponies for boys’ use. Gym. All SDoria. M oderate rates. Catalog,

P h il ip s . W i ls o n , A .M . , P r in .

C H I L D R E N 4 T O SA lovely homo scbuol in the country only 17 miles from N . Y . Unusual Teaching. M other's care. Summer School in Maas. M rs . D o b o t h y M ao- VicKAB, M iss Alici:: M cC abteb , T h e M cCarter School. Cranford, N . J.

N ew Jersey— Girls

D W IG H TR e c o m m e n d e d b y th e l e a d in g c o l l e g e s f o r

C o l l e g e P r e p a r a t i o n

S P E C IA L F IN IS H IN G C O U R S E SA tK Ie tie a , G y tn n a s iu m , T e n n is , R id in g .

Sjjacious G rou nds fo r Gam es. A lum nae cord ia lly recom m end D w igh t because

o f the spirit w h ich it inculcates: F r a o t t n e s s . S e l f C o n t r o l , S e r v i c e ,

W rite Jot lU u streted Catalog tellin g o f M e l i f t o f the sehool. R ejeren cts on reg o tii .

M IS S E . S . C R E IG H T O N , P r in c ip a l E n g le w o o d , N e w J era ey

K E N T PL A C E S C H O O L fo r G IR L SSdmuit, n e w J b rsb t . An Endowed School. Thirtieth Year. On the Estate of ChanccUor Kent In the HlBs o f N ew Jersey, twenty miles from New Y ork . College Preparatory, Academic. Music. Art. Athletics. Sa r a h W o o o m a n P a u l, and

Anita S. w o o d m a n . Principals.

St. Mary^s H allA C o u n tr y S c h o o l f o r G irls

N ea r P h D a d e lp H ia a n d N e w Y o r k

C olleg e P rep a ra tory , G enera l and P ost-g ra d u a te C ou rses, M u s ic , A rt,

D o m e s t ic Science, Secretaria l. G y m - n a s lics a n d o u td o o r

^sports, in clu d in g h orseb a ck rid ing .

C a t a l o g a n d B o o k o f V iew s on request.MRS. JOHN FEARNLEY

P r in c ip a l Bvx 418, BiajlD.laD, N. J.

Miss B eard s S ch oolC o u n t i ^ S c h o o l n ea r N e w Y o r k .

Oran^® , N e w %l®rse^

S T . JO H N B A P T IS T FOR^RjlsA C ou n try B oa rd in g S ch o o l w ith M od erate R a tes . Under the care o f tbe Sisters o f St. John Baptist (Episcopal Churcb). College PrcparalOTu. Afttrtc, Art and Gerurai Courses, For Catalog address T h e Slater Superior. Ralston (ncarMorrlstoiTn), N.J,

i‘ 'A cootl Rchool forGlrla,’ * 4<'uir luformatlon on r ^

t a . , QUCSt-0 1 1 C I dlT O Pres. R . J. TREVOBROw,

n s + it u fe B ox 44, Hockeitstown. N , J.

H A R R IS B U R G A C A D E M YSenior and Junior departm enta. M odern In

dividual Instruction In college preparatory and genera) courses b y men who know and undcr- Biand acedfl o f ch e growing boy . New fireproof building w ith Ideal eanltation. Large sunny roome: cottage dorm ltoiv system. Athletic field. M oderate ratoe. For Information address

A rth u r E. B row n, H cn om n stcr H arrisburg P en nsylvan ia

a l iiLa*e ReknnI W ayPc (Main L lo c o tP . R , R .) , LUKc S jCnOOl Pa, x b o beautiful location, ox- tenslvo grounds, patronage, experienced Instruction,

moral Infiueocc, make an unusual appeal to parents and boys. Coliego or business preparation. Junior school for younger boys. Booklet.

C h a r l e s H b n rv STROOT. A .M ., Headmaster J e s s e e . PaiLipa, A .M ., Asso. Headmaster

— B E L L E F O N T E A C A D E M Y —ilO tb year. Amidst hunting grounds and flsbing streams. Eleven teacliers for 100 select boys.Strong athletics. Tennis. H mile track. G olflinks available. Concrete pool and skating pond. Catalog. _ _JAMES B. H hohEs. A .m .. Prlnceton'85, Headmaster,

Bellotonte, Fa.

Preparatory School f o r Boys A community of ambitious boys under a dormitory influence that makes for manhood.

Send fo r calalog,W . P . T O M L I N S O N , M .A .F . H . S O M E R V I L L E , B .S .

B o x 2 4 S w a r t h m o r e , Pa .

FRAN^y^fSS^SHAUA T h o u s a n d B oy s P rep a red fo r C o llege In 25 Y ea rs. Cotnplcte M odem EotUpment, AJ ScMcrM- M oderate Races, Catalog on Reguesl

E . M . H a r t m a n . Ph.D .. Prtndpal,Box 408, Lancaster. Pa.

C H E S T N U T H ILLP repa ra tion fo r The Lcadtnit U nl.araftlea . A Country Boarding School tor Boys. Athletics for Every B oy- Eqaipmeut Unsurpnaaed. Elovon M iles Irom Plillfidelphla. Catalog on EegoesJ. _ T . R . HYDE, M .,\. (Yale), Box B, Chestnut K ill, Pa.

PENNSYLVANIAM ilitary C ollege

O n e h u n d red a n d tw o y e a r s o f sert^iC€

College courses and degrees in C i v i l E n g i n e e r i n g , Chem istry, Com m erce and

Finance.

S e p a r a t e p r e p a r a t o r y school for younger boys.

C H A R L E S E . H Y A T TP re s id en t

B ox 525 C h e ste r , Pa*

spil5(

N A z a r e x h ^ h a l lFounded IT49

M o d e rn C h a ra cte r -B u lld lo g E d u ca tion .

Tb® Sehool of The Square Deal”CoU ogo P reparatory

Burliness a n d G en era l Q ourscs. Gyioiiuslam. HwlmmlDC Pool.

Athletic Field, Winter sports.One Week in Camp.

Military System with tlio Instructors In Close Touch with thu Boys.Sopnrato J u n io r D e p a rtm e n t.Three hours from N ew Y ork or

PlilItMlcIphla.For cntulog address:

REV. A . D . TH A E LE R , D .D , HcadmfUiwr

Box 50. Nay.aroth. Pa._____

C A R S O N L O N Q I N S T I T U T E87th year. In tbe locuuialPS, 5 H hours from Kew Y ork and 6 hours from Pittsburgh. Boys taught to loam, how to labor, how to live. College propara- tbry. Separate Junior Sobool. MlUtary tramlns. Cbaraeter Building Supreme. Terms. 8400. Camp and Summer Session. June 8 to September 1 2 . $165. B ox 15. N ew BloomOeld, Pa.

G E T T Y S B U R G A C A D E M YA finely equipped bDortling school for 10 0 boye. M odern, homelike buildings. Beautiful and hesltb- fiil locauon near tbcmouiitalDS. Athletic field. All

lorts. New swlinmlhg pool. Separate Junior 'ormltory. $400 to S.500. 98tb year.

CUAnnBS H . HuDBii, L l t t . D „ Headmaster. B ox A , Octtysburg, Peansylvaola.

T E M P L E U N I V E R S I T YCollege o f Libera! Arts and Scleuoes. Toachers’ College. School o f Commerce. Proiessional Schools— Theology, Law, Medicine, Dcatlatry. Pharmacy, Chiropody. School ot Mualo. Trslnmg School for Nurses. University nigh schooL Send for bulletin. Fhtladclpbla. Pa.Ayuntamiento de Madrid

39

T h o u g h t f u l

L P e n n s y lv a n ia — G ir ls

^ 0/7 5 ^ / 1 0 0 /

A scB O O l m ak in g a a stin g -n sh ed record fo r eS ective co lleg e p repara tion A lso general a ca d em ic course fo r g irls n o t g o in g t o co llege . Special w ork in M u s ic , A rt , H o m e -m a t o g , D ra m a tic E xpression , C u rren t H is to ry a n d L iterature. A cou n try sch oo l in a co llege tow n . C on v e niently near P h iladelph ia . A ll sports. H orseb ack r ia n g . N e w gym n asiu m

w ith s ix ty -fo o t swim m in g p o o l.

W ildcU ff, th e grad uate s ch o o l: S evenG ataes, g irls 6 -1 2 . F orca ta log o f a n y o f these sch oo ls address

* M R . a n d M R S . H . M . I C R f S T , Principals. S o x I l5 1 0 ,S w a r th n io r e ,P a .

N ew England— Girls

T h e

Be a u t i f u l l y located on Fountain H ill in mountainous district. Prepares girls to enter all certificate

colleges without examination. Also flmshmg courses, Music, Expression, A rt, Domestic Science, Costume Design, Interior Decorating, Secretarial, Social Training. Chaperoned visits to New Y o rk City. N e w Gymnasium and Poo . Horseback Riding, Tennis, etc. About half usual rates.F o r C a t a l o g a n d V i e w s a d d r e s s :M e a n d M E S . C l a u d e N . W y a n t , P r in c ip a ls , B o x 246 , B e th le h e m ,P a .

Ely SchoolFor Girls

Greenwich, Conn.In the country. One houi from New Y o r k Junior and U pper Schools. College Preparatory and Graduate Courses. One-year course, intensive college preparatory review. R idm g and seasonable sports.

A

The HARCUM SCHOOLF o r Girls B ryn M a w r, Pa.

Ahorae B C io o l cmohaalsln* c o l l c g sp r c p a r a i lo n . S p e c la U c a d o m lc c o u r a efor girls not going to c o l l « c . Two year griuluaM courao tor hlgU graditatre. Music and Art uudor noted artiste. Lncatal In a coi « e town, ten miles from P tlM elpliln . New stone bulldlntta large grounds Atbletlos, ruling. Catalog. Address

Mrs. Edilh Halcher Hsrtum, B.L.. Head o f ^hool, or Mra. L May W illi,. B.P., Principal, Bos H ,

Bryn Mawr, Pa.

The Birmingham SchoolFOR GIBLS Found.d1BS3

“ T h e M o u n ta in S c h o o l”Alvan R. Grier, PiesiJenI; P. S. MouLan, Hndmasler

HeallWul location In Allcgi^ny M ts. Sgbool P g k ^"dVn,!iSSilltobuIldmgs'roTl&^^^^

lege Mualo, Art, Domeailc Science. GycDnasium SwlmiDlng Fool. Catalog:.A d d r u s R a jI M r a r , D o x 1 3 S , B ir m i n g h a m , P e n n x -

New En gland— Co-ed.

T h e G a t e w a yA School lor Girls, oltertng a one-year tutoring course as wall as regular college preparatory work. General and special eoursca ,

MISS M C E E . RBTNOLDS Principal,St. Ronan Terrace N ow Haven, Conn.

WALNUT HILL SCHOOLntjm ^ s t c n - 40 acres. Skating Pond. Athletic Fields 6 Buildings. Gymnasium

MISS C on a n c, M isa B igelow . P rln cip a lt

MORAVIAN SEMINARY AND COLLEGEFor W om en. Founded 1242.Seminary; CoUege; B . A . and B . S. MuUo, Art, Excreeaion. H om e EooDomlcs. Non-ScctarUm.

CalaJoffue and Book o f Vletcs on liecuesl PRBSfDENT RiBMEB, Box B, BeitleheiD. Pa.

Bporw, horsebaoKcllaracter, mlucJ and body. W rite • i,Janet Saywaru. 5?rlnclpal. Ovcrbrook, Pa.

H IG H L A N D H A L LF o u n d e d 1S67

P R E P A R E S G I R L S F O R A L L C O L L E G E SM odcimEducatlonaJStandarteUnuMalEaulomeiit

Spacloua Buildings, Abundant Outdoor Lire.Miss Ellen C . K e a tc , Principal. Hollidaysburg. Pa.

173»YEAB r lO O Q IR L S panAJVlvqnteTINDEN H AUU SI y in u«ft /ar-fomca 'C«rden 3pr>\* of Panes'

Sam.‘ “ ^ e w a te 'j^ n lo f ^hSoT. “ illustrated Catalog F . tv . STB.CdEL, D . D. „ „

B ox 122 LItltz, Lancaster Co.. Pa.

fob O irls. C oI-P E N N H A L L r legePreparatory.M odciu

tS^ruptlon. N ew ^mnaslurpRatcs s e w . Catalogue »Bd views * 6 6 ^

FiiiXK S. M asill , A M .. Pria.. B ox H.

ED G EW O O DA boardias school for boys and

girls from andergarten to coUega. Escel- tn b college preparadon. Imajpnation and mitiative developed through correlation ol study and play—in craft flbopa, pagcan-

plays, DstuTB study, m uac aod folk danwDg. Twenty-acre estate for aporte and outdoor life. Catalog.

Box 404, Greenwich, Connecticul

T E N A C Rftrrh e M e o l the pupU. Ffnest instruction, care S r t Innu^ els iS t a HELEN T euplb C ooxe , D ana HaU, Wellesley. Maaa.

N ew En gland— G irls

O G O N T Z SC H O O L. a '^ ’ sc Iio o I f o r(ririt (Hxainvimr an eatals on Tho summit o f Rydal fellls. 25 minutes from Plilla. Illustrated booWet dcacrlblng new building mailed on request. Rydal, Junior Department. „ , .M iss A bdv SUTHuitUNn, Principal. Pennsylvania Rvdal. M ontgomery County

The N ew Hope SchoolFor Q l i m i t e d num ber o f Girts

Colleeo Preparatory and Special p S n g S ’l^ ^ t 'c ls lM . MissHOLMQmsT, Director:

Now Hope, P o n n s y l v a n i A

N ew En gland— Co-ed.

_ . n m e nS T A M F O R D . C O N N .

Suburban lo New York City F ifty M in u tes from F ifth Avenue

EtcluBlvoly a boarding school lor hlsh-sehool girls or graduates. Choice ot studies tor every prel- erencc. Social culture: physical training; atlletics._Sm aU clOM^

Proloaely illustrated booklet w ith com plete' detaUs ahows superior advantsêd aod ez*

quisite eaulpmeot. Addrees The Recording Secretary Gien Sden. Stamford. Conn.

B R O M L E YA school tor girls from 12 to 15 y » r t o l age. Directed study and play. H esltM u “PJ*P h y s ic a l developm ent under rapeolally trained In sliuctors. For catalogue addreffl ^

T H E S E C R E T A R Y . B o x 2 1 . B r a d fo r d , M aas.

/a s> r* C T A f D A M A school lor Uttle girls In CRESTALd AN— the invigorating eUmatcolthe Berkshlrcs. T w e n t y minutes I r o m P l l t ^ lJ eon acres 3 buildings. Number limited, bpecim S S 4 e lv « ito b o m o training, cbaracter develppm ^t, ^ b S t t b Open air claasea- O utdM r sports. MBfl MiBGEST W H I T I N G , Principal, Berkshire, Maas.

THE BURNHAM SCHOOl fOR GIRISFounded b y M a ^ A- Bumham in 1877 Opposite Smltb CoUege Campus.

H e le n E- Thompson, Heacimlstreas. isiisa ae.h.^.h Northampton, Massacbuaetw,

T n\ piiV T /“' 60th year. In Cumberland Valley 1 K V i I N o — near Harrisburg, Col cgeprepara- f4irw Oniietre course (A.B. degreel. MUSIC: Plano, Vo&c, V l(5l n , Pipe Organ Karro^y^^H ome Economics. Secrctarysblp, SwtomlngCatalog. Address E . E. C ampbell, Pres,, B ox B. Mechanlcaburg. Pa.

G IL FILL A N R U R A L K IN D ERG AR TE NA homo school In the country lor little girls » to o. 18 acre estate, private lake, unlquo living quarters. Nutritious lood. dairy, playground, competent Instructors. Christian lutlueueea. . “ ‘•'vidua! care with all the love ond mothering $50.00 per m ontb. Summer camp. M m . M auv E . G ii.i i i .l a n , Spring Lake Farm, Paoll, Pa.

D A R LIN G T O NDevelope peraonallty. vitality, cfflcloncy. flxty* aero estate. Pcraonnol Engineering^ aecrct^lal. iPomeatlc Science. Phyelcal Education, Cultural Arts and College t ’roparatory oqutsps. All sporta. Gymnfteluro. Bwlmmlng nool.^ Catelog CHRiflTiNB Prlo., Box 022. Wc6t Chestcr, Fa

-HOLMEWOOD-A J u n i o r s c h o o l f o r b o y s a n d g i r l s

f r o m 6 t o l o Id tbe hill country, 40 mllce from Yortt < itv Every Jaolllty for wholesome, happy hte* Expert iMteuotlon. Beautiful grounds, modernbuildings.

$70 a m o n t h c o v e r s e v e r y e x p e n e e M R S . L . S . T E B B E T T S N ew C a n a en , C onn .

S O U T H F IE L D P O IN T H A L L_ _ , _ . . • M a ..al t.N a*.For elrls On Long Island Sound. Intermediate,

College Preparatory and General Couraea. Music. H or«ba ok riding. O utdoor lUe a special feature. Catalog. Jesslo Callam Gray, B .A., Principal, 0 Davenport Drive, Stamford, Conn.

T h e M a ry C . W heeler SchoolA New EnsJand Tow n and Country^ School

Country residence for girls 10 to 14 ycare o f ago- P rov ldeoco , R h od e Island

EAST GREENW ICH ACA D E M YCo-educntlonal. Founded 1802. 7 b u U d l^ . 13

a r c t i c held. Christian Ideals. Tuition 5500.R , » J . F R A N C I S C O O P E R , D .D ., P e [ " e l g » ' ,

O n N a r p a B a n s a tt B a y , E a s t G r a e n w le h , R . 1.

S c h o o lybr Girls

P r a p a r a t lo n f o r C o lla B a . G e n e r a l C o u r s e s .Athletics ond Sporia

M a r y L o u is a M a r o t T h o m p s o n , C o n n .

menDall âllF O R G IR L S

U n f i u e s t l o n e d s c h o la s tic s ta n d a rd s . E x c e p t i o n a l

p h y s ic a l a d v a n ta g e s . brTdss crossm s Mt. * Mrs. Charles P. Kendall 6«fl»SSACHUSETIS

t r n ^ o U l

5 ^

MISS FARMER’S SCHOOL OF COOKERYH omo o l the Boston Cooking ^ h o o l Cook Book. Training la cookery and household technique lorh S ? a n d v o S l ln n . Short and six momhajBUises. S m d lor booklet. MISS A lice BnAOLEV, Principal.

30 Huntington Ave., Boston, Maas.

M R S . G A S K I N ’ S S c h o o l f o r G i r l s

F o u n d e d 1 9 1 !H averford , Pennsylvania

C o lle g e P r e p a r a to r y . V o c a t io n a l D o m e s t ic A r ts , M u s ic — T t o ie l B u rn h a m

B EECH W O O DJcnklntown, P a . Suburb o l Pblladel^ln.

School lor practleal training ot " ? S ? P ;.lunlor College Departments. Music. Art, Home Economies. KloderEartcn, korm al Gymo^tlCB,etc. Pipe organ, gymaaalum, Address as above.

S T . E L I Z A B E T H O F - T H E - R O S E SA M o t h e r S c h o o l

Onfvn all vcor. Children 3 to 12. One horn % m N W York Usual studies- Outdoor aiKirls. Summ^^r Directress,

Box B, N eroM u, C oqq.

P U S H I N G A C A D E M Y50th year begins September 17th. G raduate lo lorty leadlag colleges- General courses for high school graduates. ExceptlonoJ health record. New administration building with BymnMlum. M odem pnulomoDt. Coeducutloaal, Terms moaerate, cquiyuû S- C ow ell. A ,M „ Pd,D ., Prioclpal

Ashburuham, Maes.

PIN E MANORÂ S c h o o l f o r H o m e E f f x c x e n c y

A T W O - Y E A R cou rse fo r the graduates o f D ana Hall_ and

oth er secon d a ry s c h o o ls . H igher cultural studies, w ith em phasis on all su b jects pertain ing to the m anagem ent o f the h om e. C ou n try life and sp orts . F ou rteen m iles from B oston . C ata log on app lication .

M I 9 9 H E l e n T e m p l e C o o k e

D ana H all, W ellesley . M ass.

R O G E R S H A L LA S c h o o l f o r G i r l s

L ow e ll, M a ssa ch u se ttsM i a s O l i v e S e ' v a l l P a r s o n s , F r i i i c i p a i

School InformationSelect you r school from a recom m ended list T h e best are here. I f y ou desire add ition a l infOTmation. w rite H a rg K s Baaar School D epartm en t 1 1 9 W est 40 th Street, N cw Y ork .


40R e q u e s t s F o r S c h o o l I n f o r m a t i o n A r e A n s w e r e d P r o m p t l y

S c

N ew England— Girls

HILLSIDEA S c h o o l f o r G irls

N o r w a lk C o n n e c t i c u tIn a beau tifu l N ew E n gland tow n,

on e h ou r from N ew Y o rk . A carefu lly selected group o f girls from all parts o f th e cou n try . F ou r residences, schoolhouse

a n d gym nasium . E xtensive CTounds. Preparation for all colleges. Special courses. E v ery fa c ility fo r ou tdoor life. H orseb ack riding- C atalog,

Margaret R. Brendlinger, A.B., Vassar Vida Hunt FrsneU, A.6 «> Sraith, P r in c ip a fi .

W heaton C ollege forW om enOnly small separate college for w oroeo In Mussa- chcsetta. 4-yecr course. A. B . degree, fa cu lty of men and women. 20 buildings. 10 0 acres. Catalog. B e v S a h u e l V . C o le , D ID ., LL.D ., President,

Maasacbusetts. N orton (30 miles from Boston).

A COLLEGE FOR WOMENCul lural and biialncas sub j sets. Courses in uana»e- m cot o f personal business affairs. 1 , 2 and 4 year pri^rams, Rpocia! w ork lor prospective secretaries and high school Insiructore. Certincate or degree, UoriDllory. D ean T . L a w ren ce Davis.

27 G a rrison Street, B o s to n , M ass.

W H irriE R SCHOOL for GIRLS. 31sl year.College Proparacory, General and apechU courses arranged for the fadfvirtual. E m ph asla ln ji in tensive on e -y ea r c o u rse fo r co llca e exa m in a tion s . Outdoor life. 33 miles Irom Boston.

MR. and M rs. tv , C, RL'sseias Principals. Merrlmac, Mass.

H O W A R D S E M I N A R Y42d year. A famous old New BnRland country ecbool for ftlrls. Preparation for college wltb special Intensive one-year course for college examlnailoiis. Exieusive grounds. All roorts. _M r. and M rs. Georrte W . E m erson , P rin cip a ls 26 Howard Street, WcstBrldRewalcr, Massachusetts

L IN C O L N S C H O O LCollm e Preparatory for Girls. General Courses, M odern hreproof bulldLngs. All sports. Country life. C ity advantages.

M iss M iriam Sew all C onversb, Principal. Providence. R h ode Island

MacDuffie SchoolP U R P O S E

T o fit girls fo r co llege .T o g iv e g irls a b ro a d , gen era l course.T o g ive a on e *year tu to r in g course fo r

co llege exa m in a tion s a n d spem al instruct io n w h en necessary fo r specia l needs.

T o su p p ly th e en v iron m en t t o girls for h a p p y 8ch ooI*days fu ll o f consciou s p rogress and jo y o u s d e v e lo p m e n t t o w a rd h igh ideals,M rs . J oh n M a cD u fiie , A .B ., P r in c ip a l

J oh n M a cD u fiie , P h .D ., D ir e c t o r Springfield . M assachusetts

N ew E n glan d —Girls

L a s e l l

S e m i n a r yHill-crest lo c a tio n

overlooking the beautl-' ful New England village of Auburndale—ten miles fromBoston. 30-acre campus,15 buildings.

A complete course on the care and management o f the home and fam ily prepares fo r the position o f home executive. Unusual training in m usic uiith concert work. Secretarial, A rt, Teacher Training and College Preparatory Courses.

In d o o r a n d o u td o o r a th le tics . G y m n a s iu m a n d sw im m in g p o o l. H o r s e b a ck r id in g a fea tu re .

W O O D L A N D P A R K , The Junior School f o r Girls Booklets on Application

GUY M . WIKSLOW. Ph.D ., Prlndvnl. Ch.vhles F . T ow n z , A .M .. Assoc. Prtndvot.130 W oodland Road, Auborudale, Mossachusoits

MORTHAMPTOMX SCHOOl^ FO R G IPLS i \

Four Year Preparatory Course for SntUh CollegeOue Year Intcosive Course for High School Graduates

All Sports. For cslalogne and loforiaalioR, addressMRS. V. N. LUCIA, Surclary. NORTHAMPTON, MASS.

E R S K I N E SCHOOLAcadem ic and Practical Cou rsesferY oun a W omen

o f Colleae AseRcsUUTue Houses, For Booklel, address

E . E . M cC lin to ck , 1 2 & Beacon S t„ B oston

dO U S E IN T H E PI NE

10 P in e S treet, N orton , M ass.A country school for girls, near Boston, Pine groves, athletic fields.

Iiorseback rirtlag. College preparatory courses with IniOTsye work tor evamiiifttious. T w o-yoar course in Household Arts for high school aroduates. Music. A rt and Secretarial Courses. Every attcntlou to hab- Its of study and to girls’ health and happiness. T h e Hedges—*A school where the young gCfl eajoys a w h o l^ m c life o f scuay and play. iratcd booklets on request. M iss G ortruclo E. C orn ish , PrinclpaJ,

St. M argaret’s School

Waterbury, Conn, Pounded IS7S

Successful preparation fo r all colleges. Special em phasis u p on m usic a n d art. Secretarial, D om estic Science a n d G en

eral Courses. L im ited E nrollm ent, A th letics— A v ita l part o f th e school life C on ven iently situ ated tw o an d one-haI£

hours fro m N ew Y o rk C ity.B ook let on request.

A lb e r t a C . E d e ll , A .M . , Principal

C h o a t e S c h o o l1600 B ea con Street

B rook lin e , M ass.H om e and D a y School for Girls. Emphasis on College Preparation . A lso A rt, M usic, D om estic Science.H om e life carefully regulated. B oston ’ s m any advantages open to students, with chaperonage. Gym nasium , Bow ling Alley, Fields for Sports. l-Iorseback Riding.

Augusta C h oate, V assar, A .B . , A .M ., Prin.

MountIda

Schoolmiles from

Boston

Send for New Year Book

F O R G IR L SW e send students to co llege o n certificate

an d exam ination . M a n y g ir ls , h o w e v e r , a f t e r le a v in g h i g h s c h o o l d o n o t w is h t o g o t o c o l l e g e . B u t o ften th ey desire a d v a n c e d w ork in a new en v iron m en t w ith com p eten t instructors, w ith stud ies best m eetin g their tastes.

W e o ffe r ju s t theae* o p p o r t u n i t ie s . S tu d e n ts t a k e E n g lis h or L ite r a tu r e , b u t th e c o tu s e o th e r w is e is e le c t iv e . A l l s u b je c ts c o u n t fo r d ip lo m a . G r a d u a t io n f r o m h ig h s c h o o l n o t n e ce ssa ry . N o e x a m in a t io n re q u li'cd .

A E th e o p p o r tu n it ie s o f B o s t o n in M u s ic , A rt , a n d H is to r ic a l a s s o c ia tio n s a re f t o c i y u sed . S p e c ia l w o r k in V o ic e , P ia n o . V io l in . 'C e l lo . H a rp , a n d P ip e O r g a n , w it h e m in e n t B o s t o n m a ste rs . ^

O u t d o o r S p o r t s . H o r s e b a c k R id in g (o u r o w n s ta b le s ) ; 9 i io le G o l f C o u rs o o n th e p r o p e r ty ; T e n n is , b o t h g ra ss a n d d ir t c o u r t s ; F ie ld S p o r ts ; C a n o e in g . O u r G y m n a s iu m is 4 5 b y PO f t . , w ith S w im m in g P o o l .

A f in e ly e q u ip p e d s c h o o l— n in e b u ild in g s .

D o m e s t ic A r t , E lo c u t io n , C o s tu m e D esig n , H o m e D e c o r a t io n . E x ce lle n t S e c r e ta r ia l C o u rs e s ; C o im ses in B u s in e s s M a n a g e m e n t ; J u n io r C o l le g e C ou rses .

S o m e r o o m s w it h h o t a n d c o ld w a te r . F o r 1924-2 -5, e a r ly a p p lic a t io n is n e ce s s a ry t o se cu re e n ro llm e n t .

Special car for Wsslern eirlsfrom Chicago. Sept. es .

2528 SiimmitSt., Newt»n, Mass.

N ew En gland— Boys

Westminster SchoolS IM S B U R Y , C O N N E C T IC U T

A school p o licy defin itely p lanned for th e individual.

A flexible form system th a t m eets each b o y ’s need, a n d perm its and encourages in d iv id u a l developm ent, School life and ath letics so organ ized th at every b oy has active part.

A separate sch oo l fo r you n ger b o y s under experienced m asters.

T w o hundred acres o f ^ o u n d , tw en ty buildings, chapel, gym nasium , swim m ing poo l. S u m m e r s e s s jo n o f s e v e n w e e k s , a f fo r d in g in t e n s iv e t r a in in g in m e t h o d s o f s t u d y , b e g in s J u ly 2 8 th .

RAYMOND R, MeORMOND. Hee^masUf

T h e S a n fo rd S ch o o lOn a New England farm. Jligh idculs,

eklllful teachcra rtiscrlmioatlng iudJvirtual attcution. ^eparea for college and biulness. Daniel S, Sanlord, Head

master, Redd log Rlrtge, Conn.

L O N G M E A D O WA school for young boys. Preparation for leading schuols. A small group, cfirclully selected. Three miles from SpringUeld. For booKlet ad<lreaa I, Mansur Beard, Headmaster, Longmeodow, Maes.

W IL L IS TONA PREPARA.TORY SC H O O L FO R BOYS

i * ' A P U D A M Upper and Lower Schoul. U U L n IV A 1V 44 mll(a from New Y ork Clly. Com plcte prcpuratloQ for college. Small claasea Progreeelve motbods. Wnll organised athletics. Constructive phyeical training. Age limits, 6-19. Bummer session o f 6 weeks. For booklet address

W , T . C o c h r a n , Norwalk, Coon.

T h e G rail SchoolIndividual and small doss InatructloDS lo college preparatory. T b e pupil is taught how to study and to concentrate.

C h a r le s C. S au n ters , Principal F A I R F IE L D , C O N N E C T IC U T

S U F F IE L D ,, A S ch o o l fo r B oys..1 K hours from New York City,

Thorough preparation (or oollogo or bualocss. Complete equipment- Department for young boys. Housemother. Booklet. •H O D ART G . TRUESDELL. Pd.D .. L ltt.D ., Principal

17 MalD Street, Sufflolcl, Conn.

X m fa lE L DK e a l l f i s n d K ep p ln e$ s e c h l o t t f i n c v « 9 u l h i f t R e C l a u P o a m L a r d « e&tflle A l t i t u d e

f i ; _________________________I ^ /tf^ C lA u R oom Lorde e$tale Altitude IIOIX

IQ Historic Old Litchfield \ R e a l S ch o o l H o m e fo r B oy s 7-14 Y ears. B oys from Primary through first year High

School, fitted fur the nationally known preparatory schools.

Outdoor Sporta, Healthful Life.Pleasant Assuclations,

Careful Training in fundamental habits. Catalog OQ Roaucst.

E A R L E E V E R E T T SA R C K A , B ox 523 L itch fie ld , C o n n e cticu t .

The Rectory SchoolE p is c o p a l s c h o o l f o r b o y s 6 t o 13. B o y s ta k e n a t a n y t im e . E a c h b o y h a s c a r e fu l su p erv is ion .

E e v . F . H . B i g e l o w , P o m fr e t , C o n n .

Allen-ChalmersA C o u n try S ch oo l (or Boys

Military Efficiency. U pper an<I Lower Schools. T h o m a s C h a lm ers, W est N ew ton , M ass.

RIDGEFIELDA BCliooI In the foutlilils o f tlioB crk- shlresUmited tofifty boys. Six forma. College preparatory. T w o bours from New York, Splendid health record.

THEODORE C, J E S S U T .H e a d m a a t c r . IlldgcUeld. Conn,

L A W R E N C E A C A D E M YIn b «a u t lfu l, h is to ric G ro ton ,

Tioys from 1 1 to 19. An old school with a new equipment. A New England school with a broad outlook. A hom e school wltb high stundarda.

HowARn A , BRiDGJiAK, PrlDClpal 1 1 M ain Street Groton, M a a .

M I L F O R DA college preparatory ecbool for boys o f 16 and

over Formerly the Rosenbaum Scbool. Small clflMcs and individual instruction. Minimum tuition including room and board (or Uio entire school year, $2 ,000. _ ^SxajuKL B . R osenbaum , PrlDclpal. M ilford, C on a

In


41

S c h o o l s A r e N o w E n r o l l i n g P u p i l s f o r 1 9 2 4 - 1 9

C o l l e g e P r e p a r a t o r y G e n e r a l C o u r s e s

F A L L A N D S P R IN Gc h e M o u n t a i n s o f N o r t h C a r o l in a

o n L a k e J u n a lu a k a

W IN T E R J a n u a r y t h r o u g h A p r i l O n C a p c lv a I s la n d , F lo r id a

n e a r F o r e M y e rs S e p a r a te G r o u p f o r Y o u n s B o y s

W rite fo r U lm tnited BooiU ls. " Keeping Ahead in College P reparation ." " A Year Konnd School.'

C L A R E N C E E . S N Y D E R9 3 5 F in e A r t s B u ild in f t C h ic a g o , 111.

A Countru School For BogsAcc«»itible I® fkluctiVionnl .ir>d >l»:lropou4Rn Ccnlcr®

Junior School-CollejJe PrcparatoraEurflUb *3utotnal >lcll>od ^

c«a®«cd of YniepHneetwv ood Oviftjrid m«'0

So1«n<Iiii Ath1«i]ca. Ridfnir siveo by (h« School. Um flF GoK C ou ^ and T*nnU CouctJ b«1onclng W tb«HomoiUkd. Loc*lKl«i ihoBinon Fr«neh EstaU.

E x c e l l « n t eUmf t Ca.Summer Address,

ThsS«crel«T7 - Fwhaun Sebool Lske Placid Club Nsw Xork

B L U E R I D G E S C H O O L f o r B O Y SAn accredited preparatory school, s p ie n d l^equipped and Ideally located Id heolthlul Inrigor- atlul cllraotc. Satlsllcd paironiwe, high m o ^ K m . cultured euvtroonient. Junior For catalog, uddre= J. n . SandllM, Headmaster. Box B . Hendersonville, N orth Carolina.

Tom e SchoolA Nalionally-Known Boarding School lor Boys

situated beiweeo Philadelphia and BalUinoro on the Susquehanna River. Caraims o l 1110 acres Excellent cuisine. Separate ijioin lor each hoy- College Board stanflar^. M l athletics. K loe-hole goll course. Catalog.

M U R R A Y P . B R U S H , P h .D .P o r t D e p o s it

M d -

Southern — G irls

R O X B U R YA s p e c ia l T y p e o f B o a r d in g S c h o o l

S o u n d I n s t r u c t i o n b y T u t o r ia l M e t h o d Classes lim ited t o five. One master to every five b oy s , ff ig h record o f

efficiency in college entrance examinations. O r g a n iz e d A t h le t i c s

Field, Gym nasium and T rack Sports under well-known coaches. Summer session fo r Fall exam inations. W r ile fo r information.

A . H . Sheriff, M . A . , Headmaster

R O X B U R Y S C H O O L , C h e s h ir e , C o n n e c t i c u tUS M iles north of New Haven)

W O R C E S T E R AC A D EM Y -nF O R B O Y S O F A B I L I T Y W IT H C O L L E G E V IS IO N

2S0 boys SI.000.000 equipm ent S/OOOperyear W orcester, M assachusetts

P o w d e r P o i n t S c h o o l

Prep.-ires fo r co llege and (fives stron g gen era l courses,8 t o iS , N u m b er lim ited t o s ix ty . C on v em en t to B o sto n . W rite fo r book le t.P H IL IP B O V IE R H A W K , P h .D ., H ead rr ia a tor . 54 K in g C a esa r R o a d , D u x b u r y , M aas.

SEND US THE BOYa n d W e W i l l R e t u r n Y o u T h e M a nStudy- Athletics. W ater Sports, Stromr College bred faculty. Teacher to every 20 boys. Separate .lunlur Depart til ent and campus for boys fi to 15. Send for our llluBCrat'ed eataloguc- C U L F C O A S T M I L I T A R Y A C A D E M Y

R 7 . G u lfp or t , M ississippi America's greal open air school <m the Ovlf.

F ish b u m e M ilitary SchoolPrnpareti for uulverritiea and business life. Personal fttieatlon. it, O. T , C. under U. a W at Department, 45ib year. N ow $250,000 flreproof cciulp- ment Catalaeac. M a j. MOROAtr H , H upqins, Fclnc,, B ox H , Wayoeaboro. Vu,

Tennessee Military InstituteA school where orderliness, respect for government, an<l the dcriro to niako good ropiuce rccklessuess aud tlie “ don 't care” uttliudo. where cvory boy is put oa bis mottle to moiiBiire biinseir by establlsfiod school stuiKlards.Coo<l name of school rests on thorough acuxlemlc work, cfncieut military training and

!hyslcal development, and ino sp irit of ', M . I., which inspires boys to xbelr beat achlcvemeut. Sound government tnronch

Guiisibic restraints and Incentives to good conduct. Health record unsiirpawed. MIW eUmato, outdoor exercises all year. R . O. l . G, M odern buildings uihI eaulpmeot, laboratorla, gyioniislum, swimming pool, cinder iracK. All athletics. Charges moclctute. Member ot the A eaccl ai.l on of M 111 tury Coll cges and Sell ools o f U. R. Fur Catalog aadrca

COL, C. ft. ENDSLEY, Supt., Box 82 S w e e t w a t e r , T e n n e A s e o

M i t c h e l l S c h o o l2 0 miles from B oston

A s;f*hool with Ids&la and eharucterlstlca conducive to p r o p ^ M d

hS?thfSl MItohoU appeals l o the youhg American boy andtbe iboufihtlul parent. Catalog.

A L E X A N D E R H . M I T C H E L L , P r in c ip a l B ox K , BlU erIca, M ass.

W E S T P O R T H O M E S C H O O LTTor YounB Boys Established 1 9 1 1 . 4o m ll^ S ^ l - e T v S k on New York. N ew H a v ^ atm w S tn r d R R Family Hie. Careful attention to bralth and'behavior. College £ “ P?''tt'<=“J ¥ lR .“ M rly. 5600.00. Catalog. E d w a b o D . M x r r i- M A h\ A .M . (Yale) Westnort, Conn.

T h e SC H O O L Q U EST IO NThese S ch ools are k n ow n t o H s ip e r ’s Bazar, b u t it there is a question m y o u r m rnd let us aimwer it fo r y o u . 'W rite t o H arpet a B azar, 1 1 9 W est 40 th St., N ew Y ork .

Southern — Boys

P t L A C I C S T O N E1 5 l^ t lL lT A J R Y A .C A .D E ,> T Y

IN ^ E H EALTH FU L PIED M ON T REGION O F VIR G IN IA“ M a k i u g F o u r - S a u a r e M a n

B est H o m e In fluen ces N e w B u ild in gs . A ll Sports

S e p a r a t e S c h o o l f o r Y o u n g B o y sFor Cololos on i lUnstrotei nooktet •'How

C o lo n e l E . S . L IG O N , P r e s id e n t , B o x M , B la c k s lo n e . V a .

C ou rses— C olleg e P repa ra tory an d B usiness A d m in istra tion

STAUNTON A C A D E M Y ^

BusJncssT Gymnasium, Bwloinilng n o o l , all athletics. C om goto p i a n t . C l i a r g o ^ C o O . ^ ^

B ox B (Ktkblo Staiiou), Staunton, Va.

ASHLEY HALLA fflrla’ school offrrlog a broad variety o f coursce Ootlege preparation for beat women s eolleg®. Modern equipmcot. Swimming pool. Mild cllraalo peroilta outdtxjr work tbe year around.^ <^toJc«uc. AnimEaa M aby VARDniNS M cB eb , M .A.,Princii)al,

Box B , Charleston, 8 . C.

Danville Military InstituteAn accredited preparatory school for boys from 1 2 vcurs of ojic UP. Wrl ie for catalog.Col. W , M . K eupbb , Supt. Box H , uanvlUe, \a.

lg)alm 15cac|) ^c& oolfo r Glrfs

A day school for winter visitors.ADA E. D avis, Principal . ,

Cocoanul Row . Palm Beach, Florida.

Southern— Girls

W A R 0 -BELM O N TR O R O I R L 8 A N D 'S ^ O U N Q W 0 M 8 N

W A B D -D E L M O N T combines highest academic training and advantages of extenaive grounds and equipment with that mucb-sougbt- for Soutbcm oullurc and rebnement. W A R D -B E L M O N T Offers a elx- year course o f study embracing two years o f college. Its well-balanced curriculum meets the iodXvIdu&l needs of students. Early appUc&tlou for 1934-25 is neccBsary, Address

W A R D -B E L M O N T H e ig h t s , 5ox12, N a s h v i l le ,T e n n .

B R E N A U C O L L E G E C O N S E R V A T O R YN of«d for: select patronage 30 states: plcosaot social llfo; location foothius B lue Ridge Mtfl. North o f Atlanta; Standard A.B, course; special advan- tases In music, oratory, art. domestic Mieoce. Dhyalcal culture, 31 buildings. Outdoor sports: swimming, boating. horeebacK riding, etc. Catalog and iuuatrated book. _

A d d r e s s B R E N A U , Box H . O a ln e s v i l le , G a .

ST. HILDA'S HALL C h a n e s T o 5 a * w.v®T be Chevron School for Girls, Eplflcopal- In tiie Shcnaodoab VaUry. College preparatory. Elective Courses. Music and Art, Athletlw. Open air clQOses. Individual IngtructJon, $600. Catalog M ariah Pemdlbton D otal , Principal.

M A R Y L A N D C O L L E G EFor TVomea. tea miles from Baltimore, Four-

year courses leading to ail degrees. TwcHyeor course IcadlbB to certiilcate. Personal supervlalon o f strong faculty. M odem fireproof buildings. Athletics, Swimming pool, Est. 1SS3. Catalog.

Box 9-B, Lutherville, M d.

Modern, well equipped, in tbe beautiful Green Snrtng Valley near Baltimore. Preparatory, General Fibiahlng, Xntenaedlate. Music. Art, Catalog. M » a M art M oncbibffb Lm N O sros. Box B, Garrlfloil.Md,

Virginia Intermonl Collegefor Girls and Young Wom en. 41st year. 27 states. High School and Jr. College. Music, ^ t , E z- nreaslon. D om estic Science and SecretariaJ Courses. feraclDg climate, Alt. 1900 ft. Gym.. Swimming nool. new dormitory wltb private baths,, ,Jl g .N offslngeb, A. M .Pres., Box 155, Bristol. Va.

F A I R F A X H A L L for G irlsId the B lue Ridge Mountains. College preptuatory. R idlog. G olf. 1 year graduate work. Muele. Art, Horns Economics. Expression, Secretarial. 35 acres M odem building. M aine Lino, 2 wUroads, 8625 Catalog. John N o b lb M a x w e ll , Prcrident.

* Box H , Basic, Va,

S U L L IN S C O L L E G E M E t ® ?For Girls. High School and Junior College Courses, Music. E x p rc^ on , Domestic Science, etc. New buildings; every room connecting bath. 8 wim- rolnc Pool- Horseback riding, M o u b ^ n climate.

W - B . M A R T IN , Ph.D ., Pres,, B ox B.

SO U T H E R N S E M IN A R Y U ikA S ch oo l o f C h aracter

For girls and young women. Blue RIdgo M toa. ofVirginia. ----------------Mueic,uomlcs. —B ucoa Vlata, Va.

Fort Loudon SeminaryWinchester, Va. F or Girls, l a beautiful Shenau- doab Valley, College Preparaiory, Literary aod B u sln cs C ou rse. Music. Art, Languages. D om estic Science, Athletics. Terms $460. Address: B ox 273. KATaanifiK Glass G reene. President-

MASSANUTTEN ACADEMY wooS’. i l l vo.A prenaratory Bohool with toacher tor w a v 10 boya. M ilitary. In beaut ful .Shenandoah VaUoy 100 Irom tfaahlngcon. M odemnaeluoi. Athlctloe under iralued director. Music. ilow xR h ’ j . ^TOCHOFF. A .M ., Ph.D .. Heodtnohter.

C A T H E D R A L S C H O O L F O R G IR L SO rlando, Florida

E t. Rev. Cameron Mann. D p . , P rgldcnt. Geh- eral and elective courses. Faculty 17. Single reoras. Beautiful location. Climate m a lt» outdoors the symnaaluui. Terms S8UO.OO. Address, Secretary Cathedral School. Orlando, H onda.

M iss H arris’ Florida SchoolUnder northernTourlat ouiilla use home texl-boojis. O nidM r claaaea. oeean baching throughout wInOT.Ing and day school deBarcmeols. October t " Jbhh-1 0 5 7 B p lo k e ll A v s n u e M ia m i , F lo r id a

S tu a r t H a ll , Staunton, VirginiaEpiscopal school for girls— E icbty-arst Se«lon . R ich In traditions o f tbe past: alive to the ngeda of the prefieni. Thorough college preparation. Outdoor sports. Address M rs. H , N . H ills, A.B.. B ox H.

F A U Q U I E R I N S T I T U T EFor Girls. fi4tb year, Situated In t ^ be^ ilhU Piedm ont region o f VJpglnJa, 65 mllcfl from V ^sh- loKton. Thorough college preparation. Horaebacsriding. O utdoor Sporu. M odem buUdluga 5-acre cumuuo. Catalog. Rate $550. M isa S . ^ * 7 Strother. MRsrkATuERiNE D , Ca r r . Prtnclpnls, Wartenton. Vlr^nla, B ox 50

SOUTHERN COLLEGEM "alo“ A rtf S ip rcS oa °D n m M tlc” s o ie ^ ^ Training. G ym., Golf. Swimming, Tennis, HlBtorlo pilgrimages. R a le 8700.ArlVar Kyle Di?is, A.M., 210 College Place, Pelcsbiuf, Va.

V I R G I N I A C O L L E G E fo r G irlsa n d Y o u n g W o m e n Box B, ROANOKE, VA.

In Valley o l Virginia. Elective K en a ry ory . Junior Colfege. Music, Art. Expression. Hoji® Economics. Recretarlal. Library.MXTTIE P . Ha RRIB, PTM MRS. GBRTRODlH arris B oatwright. v .-P.


42

T h e s e S c h o o l s A r e R e c o m m e n d e d b y H a r p e r ’ s B a z a r

T h e M isses S to n e ’s SchoolPrepares Arocricao Girls tea Citizenship and for Forelgp Travel. AmcrlGan History, Literature, Art aod Govcronient. Special Courses In M odem LanEuacee, Secretarial W ork, Interior UecoratlnB. 1700 Rhode M aud Ave. N . w ., Washington, D . O.

ffifjC

f o r < g l r UI n r c d n c d r e s id e n t ia l s e c t io n o f W a a h l D g t o n . Cultured home lo f l i i c n c 8 a n d s o c ia l ] ifo . O ffers primary. In te rm e d ia te , a c a d e m ic , c o l l e g e p re p a ra to r^ . C kjllcijlate, f ln o u it s , d o t iie s flc science a n d s e c r e ta r ia l cou rses , is tu d cn tii o b s e r v e G o v c m m c n iop «ra t(oB 3 , AthlsClcB, dram aiiee.

A d d r« f l» M is s C h a r lo K e C r i t t e n d e n E v e r e t t . P r in c ip a l . I S S3 E jB t ite e n th s t r e e t , Wa&h* I flC te n . o . C .

F A I R M O N T School for GirlsWashington, D . C. Hegular and Sppclal Courees.

Advaueed Courses for High School graduates. Music. Art, Expression. Educational advautagea o l National Capital. For catalogue, address F a i r m o n t S c h o o l , 2111 S S t r e e t . W a s h in g t o n , D .C ,

NATIONAL PARK SEMINARY

J a m e s E . A m e n t ,Ph.D., L U .D .,

PresUUifU A N a t i o n a l

Boarding School for Clrls In the suburbs or Wash’ in g t o D , D. C. Two-yoar Junior College with rocfl- tionftl courses. College Preparatory. Address

Reaiatrar, B o k 170,F o re s t Q len . M d.

M A R E T F R E N C H SC H O O LBoarding & 'D&y School. P rlm air, Intenuediate, AcodemTc, College Preparatory. French the lan-Eiogc o f the sobool. W rite for catalogue to Miss

oulse Maret. Kaloram K ood a t Connecticut Avenue, Waahlogton, D . C.

C H E V Y C H A S E S C H O O L a school forthe girl o f today aod tomotTOW. Courses Prcpara- lory ; two year advanced for high school gradualea: special. Unrivalled location at the national capital. For catalog atldrcss C kbvv c h a se School, B ox B,FREDERIC ERN EST FaRRI NOION, Ph.D ., Heod> master, Washington, D . O.

GUNSTON HALL1024 F lorida A r t .. W ash ln ficon . D . C .

A school for girls. Esc, 1N92. Preparatory and academic courses. T w o years' graduate and college work. Music, Art, Expresaloo, Domestic 8 cleoc.;. Athletics.

MRS. BEVERLBr R , ^fA80N, Principal

R H Y T I - I M I S L I F ER h y th m ic H ea lth T ra ln lo g

C orrespon d en ce C ou rse Control m lod and emotions and make body more

Iierfoct Inatruraeiit for life work. R h ythm ic Trahi- Dg develops knowledge for this b y giving mental and physical health, polso. nerve strength, freedam,

true grace and beauty, and better unde standing e f life.

M a r y G a l e D a v i s , Pd.M ., Pre^dont,Gale R h ^ h m io Kealth-Tralolng Institution, luc.

L816 Belmont Road, W ashlngiop, D . C.

T H E R O U T H P IN E S S C H O O LS am ark a n d . N . C.

(Near P ln ^ u rst and Southern Pines)School Aome for ohlldrcn O'Ld Kcolthful climate. Special attention to IndlvlduaJ academic and physical nccrls V ouog, oompanlouablc InstructorA R^ltutlous hmited to feu : pupils. Ungraded.

A P A L M B E A C H SCH O O LThe Gault Private School for winter residents:

trades one to twelve: for both boys and girls: nainjctlod I d child's own books W rite for catalog to B , H , G a u lt , B .A ., Prlocipol, 631 Iris S i„

W cxt Palm Beach, Fla.

FALL ENROLLMENTS

HA V E you settled the School Question for next year? Are your children going where you

know they will be well taken care of in addition to

being properly educated?

Will their play time as well as their study time be

supervised? Will they meet the sort of young people

you wish them to have for friends in later life?

This is a question for you to decide definitely and

at once.

There is yet time. T he best schools fill their vacancies earliest, but m any of them have a few places left for

this year. Harper’ s Bazar knows where these vacancies are. I f you wish to avail yourself of our services, write

immediately to:

H a r p e r ’ s B a z a r

119 West 40th Street

S c h o o l D e p a r t m e n t

N ew Y ork C ity

W ashington— Girls

I N C - S M I T H S T U D I O - S C H O O LG T O N a n d-D a n c ln g — D ra m a clc A rc

P A R I SA m o f W A S H I N M u sle— Lanftu age-

A school for y ouag women, ollcring unique and unoxceUed opportun I ties for cultural or ororessional study )o an atmosphere That is both A r t is t ic aod stimulating. Other arc subicos. academic or co U ^ c work arTAngcd that student aeslrea. All aublocts elective Tuition according to amount o f work taken. Unusual social advantages o l Washington; week o f opera in N ew Y ork ; preparation for foreign travel.

M r. a n d M rs. A u gu st K io g -S m lth . D irectors 1751 N ew H am p sh ire A ve.. W ash in gton , D. C.

W estern— Boys

THE“ C M” RANCH SCHOOLAltitude 7000 feet, yet Winters art open. Every boy has his own liorse.Skeeins, trapping, all Winter sporte.Life titoe tonic for the b oy w ho has grown beyond his strength- College preparation, Eastern faculty.CH A RLE S C . M O O R E , L L . B - . D irector

l>uboi 6, M’j 'o m ing

/ \ L i m MILITARY I U n l U INSTITUTE

H istory— N inety years o f succsas In educating boys.

O rga n iza tion — Cull ege prcpi^u-Or|$an(ZHW l^*<a^-*V'Lraict>ctory and ucodetnlo. Small classes. Lower school for younger boys. A th le t ics — Cytiihasium. Swim-

■ mlng pool. Systematic instnjcUou.9 L^atIon—Suburban. lOlX) ft.m elevation,■ Wrlto for catalogue,

A , M . K E N S H A W , S u p t . ,B o x 9 9 , C o l l e g e H ill. C in c in n a t i . O h io

Tupelo M ilitary InstituicHUIs o l MlMiealppl. v icin ity o l Blrmlnsljam. Memphis and N cw Orleans, Select, Ideal home. Limited enroUmeDt. Small c Io r s c s . Individual atteD tlO D , W ell equlpDCkl, modern, swimrolog pool, gymnasium. All athletics. Junior d m ^ t - ment. Terms, S400. G eo. w . C h a p m a n , A ,M „ P h .D ., T u p e lo , Mississippi^

NORTHWESTERN N A V A L A C ^ E M Y70 ml, from Chicago. An endowed College Preparatory Sch ool and Junior Col I cge. Its dlsllnctlve advantages aod methods interest dlsorimloating parents. C ol. R . P , D avidson , Pres., Lake Qeoeva, wl9.

School InformationSelect y o u r S ch oo l from a recom m ended list, T h e best are here. I f y o u desire additicmal in form ation , w rite H arper's B azar S ch oo l D epartm ent, 1 1 9 W est 40th Street, N ew Y ork .

NEW MEXICOM I L I T A R Y IN S T IT U T E“ In the Sunshine State." Exceptional high school and iunior college work. W ell balanced academic, military and physical training. Cavalry school. Every boy rides. Polo,Bwl m m in g , allaporta. R . O.T. C.Bracing air, dry climate. 8700 It. aUltuclc. O utdoor life all year. M oderate rates. For catalog, address C o l . J . C . T r o u t m a n , - S u B t . ,G e z 6 . R e s w e l l , N e w M e z je o .

SlverIMIL IT AR YA C A D E M YF or catalog address The SeereUry, CULVER, Ind.

'HORPE A C A D E M Y F O R B O Y S U N D E R 15

Beautiful high bluff location. Lako Michigan shore. 30 miles from Chicago. Semi-mlli-

tury. SinoJI classes. Uniforms, Catalog.Address L a k e F orest, 1 1 1 .

Missouri Military AcademyDevelope rcd-blootlod American man ood , through carefully co-ordinated tnUltary and academl c training. Equipment and faculty exceptiooal. Summer school and Cumj) at Colorado Springs Fur catalog, address C ot. E . V-BVUTON, President, Box 126, Mexico, M o.

W is c o n s in , Waukesha County, Delafield,

SI. John^s M ilitary Academ yEminently flttod for training American boys. Thorough scbolustlc and military Instruction, Situated on high ground, lo Waiikcshu County Lake region. Catalog. Box 30 H.

M I A M IM I L I T A R Y I N S T I T U T E College Preparatory. MlUtary

traJnlDg for ])byBlcaI growth nod mental direction. Rates conservative. Catalog.

C « l . O i-v en G r a f f B r o w n , P r e s .,B o x 2 4 0 , G e r m a n t o w n , n e a * D a y t o n , O h io

L E N O X H A L LF O R G I R L S

Id St. Louis' most exclusive residential suburb.A beautifully landscaped estate o f six acres.

C o l le g e P r e p a r a t o r y C e u r e a . C a r e fu l l y a r r a n g e d s p e e i s i c o u r s e s t o m o o : I n d iv id u a l r e q u ir e m e n t s . A d v a n c e d C o u r s e s f o r H ig h S c h o o l G r a d u a t e s .

Lower Schools for girls from 9 to 13 M usic, Art, Playground.Household Science, Speech Arts. BccrcturloJ. P o u r w e l l O Q U lp p e d b u i l d i n g s .O u t d o o r S p o r t s . H ik in g .H e r e b a c k R id in g , $ i m m l n g , R o w in g .

For Booklet Address M R S . M . L O U IS E T H O M A S , P r e s id e n t B o x 1024 , K ir k w o o d , S t . L o u is C o . , M e .

Sf. lUary-iif-ihe-TDoodsCollege f o b W omen . S tand ard C ollegia te

Courses.AO.^nnMT, C om p le te h U h sch oo l cu rricu lu m .Music, Art, Exprcaslou. All Sports and Ath- iinics.f*or Ulnstraled Bulfettns address. The Secrelary

B ox 50, St. Mary-oI-the-W oods, Indiana

Lindenw ood College50 minutes from St. Loula. Standard College for YouDR W omeu fully accredited. 2 and 4 year courses, riom o EcQoomlca. Business. Oratory, Music. 138 Acres, GymDaolum. Swimming Pool. Catalog,J. L . R o e m e r . President, Box 523, St. Charles, M o.

E L M H U R S TA C ollege P repa ra tory S ch oo l fo r Girls

Under the direction o f Eastern Teachers with Duropeau training. H orseb ack rldlnft. All Six>rca o u t o f D oors.MISS ISABEL CI1XA.SLER MI9S C A B D U N E SUUKER

CoK.sERSviLLK, Indiana

Frances Shimer SchoolT or GlrlB and Y oung 'VVomeD. 2 yeara' CoUeee, 4 years’ Academy. Music, Art. E xprc»loa - Home Economics. 72nd ycjir. Campus 25 acres. Outdoor sports. 9 buildings. Now College dormitory. Separate building for younger girls. Term opens September 1 0 th, 1924, Catalog, R ev . Wm. P, M cK ee , Doan, B ox 660, M t . Carroll, 111.

COLUMBUS SCHOOL for G irlsEst. 1898. CoUege Preparatory, General and Klodergarteo Courses. Small BooroiPg Dept. Home

icrc. ALICE Gladobn , A .B. (Smith), andOk ACE L. J, M cC lu b b , A .B ,, A .M . (Bryn M aw r). Headmistresses, Box B, Columbus, Ohio.

F E R R Y H A L LCollege preparatory, geoccul high school and

advanced course’s. Special Instruction In music, expression, domestic arts and sciences. O n Lake Michigan 28 miles from Chicago. For catalog address. M iss E loxse R . T remain , Prlo., B on 813, Lake Forest, UL

Girls’ Collegiate SchoolThirty-third year begins September 26th, Ac

credited. Offers Gcuerul, College Preparatory. Special Courses— 2 years poat-graduatc work, vo- catiouul, cultural. Beautiful Spanish buildings. Outdoor life a reality.

MitsS P a r s o n s and M iss D en n en , Principals, 1608 West Adams Street. L os Angeles, CnL

T H E A N N A H E A D S C H O O L B e h o o l f o r G IH e.^Hlgb School graduates adm itted without examina- ilOD to all colleges using nocrediting system. Htu- deQls prepared for oollcec biiard examlpaUona Pos>gToduute, primary and intermediate departments. Cheerful, homelike school w ith outdoor life year round. AddrcBaM is s M e r y E ,W l ls o n ,P r in .| B o x H , B e r k s lo y , C a li f .

T H E B I S H O P ’ S S C H O O LB o x 1 5 , L b J o l l a , C l l f o r o l a

For Girls, Upon the Scrippe Foundation. Intormo- diate, General, Ccjilege Preparatory, Muale. Art, Outdoor Life. Athletics- i o miles from San D lcgo. Catalog.CAROLINE SEEiy CUMMINS, A. M„ Vasssr, HMiliiiisirMs-

H O LLYW O O D S C H O O L FO R G IRLSEstobllflbed )8 years. T h e only apcrcrtlt^ '’ '' 'y " , '; scliool In Hollywood, High school and elcmeotnry grades. O utdoor classes.

M bs. LOUISE K nappbn W oollett, Prluclpal 1749 L a Brea A vc., H ollyw ood, California.

T H E W E S T L A K E S C H O O L l o r G IR L SCollege Preparatory aod Colloslate Ooursee. Piilly accredited, in choicest section o f Lb®.Modern buildings. Tennis, SwlrnmIna, Riding, Uii- vsual musical odvantages. Grammar School grf^’ ®- JESSICA 9. V a n c e and FREPURicADBLAOtiNA, Prlns. B ox R , 333 S. Westmoreland Ave., Los Augelea. O.vi.Ayuntamiento de Madrid

H a r p e r ’ s B a z a r W i l l F i n d Y o u a S c h o o l Q u i c k l y

43

C alifornia— Girls

sOrton School^F O R G IRLS

■ Outdoor study all ^ t e r . CoUeeo preparatory and goncral courses. Arr, Music, Expression. Atiiletlcs- 35th year.

, ANNA B. ORTON, Prin.. Box B.1SO170SouthSucUdATa., P«adon<i, Col,

W iiBhIre B lv d ., L o » A n g e le e . C al.

I M arlborough School for Girlsi ; 5045 W est T h IrJ Street, Loe A n seies

I B o a r d in g a n d d a y school. 3Sth year opens Sept.Snai General and college prepnratory courses. I CoUmc certincate rights. Special advantages lor Music French, History o l Art. etc. BeauUIul modern buildings. Open air study rooms O i^ dour llle throughout year. Gymnasium, basket- baii, tennis, horseback riding. AddtcfB.M is . L c lh t r D r a k ,. Pies-, o i H U s Ad, S. Blake, Prin.

P A G EM I L I T A R Y A C A D E M Y A BIG SCHOOL FOR LITTLE BOYSSafety— IloflUh — Hyjplncss

Ff>r younwtcra from 6 to 14. Sympathetic, WatchhU. Intel*

ligcnt Guidance.H om e Care and Training, Capable, M otberly Houao-Mo-

trona. __W om en Teachcra In Eleiocn*

tary Gra<los. _O p n Air fileoplnc Porches. O utdoor L ife In Sunny South-

trn California.M ilitary Training for the LUtle

Fellows.N o boyfl over 14 admitted.N o irigh School pupils.Send In applleatXoua early. , Beautiful C audopic and View

Book. Scod fur It.ROBT. A. GIBBS, HeadmasUrUoiU^T, l»M9ia. I.o«Ang&l»«, r>l.

P A S A D E N A M I L I T A R Y A C A D E M YCollege Preparatory. Accredited. Separate.

I Junior School, cradrs 5 to « - Mocllfled MllUary Syatem. Unaonomtnatloiial with Chrletlan Influ-

I cnccs. Register any time. Summer Camp in High I Sierras, both cultural and recrwtioual. Catalog.

Camp folder. Address school, R . D . N o. 2, Box 1 2 H, Pasaaena, Calif.

.WILLIAM W ARREN SCHOOLI P r c p a r o e boys for college. 6 0 % enter Eastern U d I -

versttiea. Open-air clasarootos, sleeping porches, large outdoor life. Upper and Lower acnools. Bummer Camp at LakoTalioc. California. Catalog.

Box w - 6. M enlo Park, Califomia.

H IT C H C O C K M I L I T A R Y A C A D E M Y 18 miles from San Francisco. A ll year round outdoor life. SpIon<11rt equipment. Experienced Instructors Academy fully accrc<lltud by Collcces, Physical Culture, s'ootball, Tennis, etc. Swimming Pool, Separate room for c\'cry pupil, 47 th year begins first W ednesday In Septembw. w rite for Uiustratcd catalog to R kK H , S b erch , President, 8an Rafael, Cal.

M O N TEZU M A M O U N TAIN S M iL os G a to s , C a lifo rn ia

Accredited Outdoor Life all the year round

SA N DIEGO A R M Y A N D N A V Y A C A D E M Yi Prepares for Colleges. W est Point and Annapolis,I University o f California highest scbolustlc rating.

ClittsWan inllueuces. Lana and water sports all I year. Summer Sossloo, .Tuly 1 -Bopt. 1 . Cathloguc- ' Address C a pt. T h os . A. D avis. Box H , P a cific

Beach sea., San D iego , Cal.

Sp ecial Schools

1880 S egu in S ch o o l

DEVEREUX SCHQDLSCbi ClUidicn whose Jui> been Retarded

Throe separate schools for B oys and Girls o f all ages recjulrlDg Rcicntlflo Obscrvutlou and SpeelaJ Instruction,Male faculty for older boys. Tutoring Camp in summer.

H E L E N A T . D E V E R E U X , D ir e c to rB ox B B e rw y n , P a .

1924For Backward and Menially Deficiont Children

I Limited number glcia. young women and boys I under 1 2 . N o epileptics nor inoanc. Largo grounds I adjoining 50 aero pork, Ton teachors, live govcru- ' K9. M B S . E , M . Sequin, B o x 8 . Orange, N . J.

THE BANCROFT SCHOOLFor children whose development has

not progressed normally

FORTY-FIRST YEAR

W inter School near Philadelphia. Summer Cam p in M aine. F ifty- four acres o f ground, twenty-six buildings, sixty-eight employees, including tw elve teachers and twenty-eight governesses.

E A. Parrlsglon, M.D.Address Box 165

J e u l s C oulsoD C o o k f

HaddoDfleld, N. J.

T h e T r o w b r id g e T r a in in g S ch o o lA homo school for nervous sod backward chllilren.

T h « B est ia th e W est E . H aydn T row brid ge , M .D .

2831 F orest A ve., K ansas C ity , M o .

THE SCIENTIFIC TUTORING SCHOOLA select school lor limited number o f backward cbildren. PaychoIoBlcal training. Physical cultuic- Speech t r a l^ g . physician's endorsement.

M .4k I0N C h a m b b t i l a i n K r.f.TiF.T— G E R T B U P D a . S r f iW A R T _Box 107, Baltimore Pike, Media, Fa.

Sandalphon. School-HomeF o r ch ildren d ela yed in ntenral developm ent. One o f tbe few recognized schools In Middle W est (or backward ahildren. Bernard Cadwallader. Director. For 30 yoars porrectlonlar, o f Speech D efects. 18V4 E. ^ n d Street, Cleveland, Obio.

H i d - a - w aBeautiful, exclusive, country nursh^ Home and Scbool for mentally defective children. Roforences exchanged.MAh«ARBTTAR,. BENNETT, BozUl.EngllBh. Indiana,

He DL€Y^F o r B-5y* k o 4 G ir l# w h o re<ruire m p ro o j r o o o o l « tte n tio A ktwl indivldutl h f t r u e d o n t h a n . ref f ol t r B ch M li. A c o d o fs ic , laU uatrisI, OOiiuirBi.

irScaAl'”'nianside. Pa. <« mi. from Plula.t

Professional Professional

D o m e s t i c A r t s a n d S c i e n c e

An Exclusive Schoolfor a few oblldren who need Individual education to adjust them to the ordinary conditions o f home and school life. Conducted by a University i j o f ^ r o f Psychology, at hJs country place In the suburbs ol Fhllatlelphla. Address. _ _ . .L i C H iN S B WlTUER. Ph.D ., D evon, PcnnaylvaaJa.

FLORENCE N IG H T IN G A L E SCH O OLFo r b a c k w a r d C H IL D R E N

K atoaab, N , Y .— 1 2 M iles from N . Y . Summer School aad Camp oa the School Grounds,

in Beautiful Westchester HUls. Eudolpli S. Fried, Principal.

Exceptional Childrencan be eucocssfully developed by Individual training B O Y S G IR L S L IT T L E FOLKSThreo separate acbools- 230 acres. Booklet. MUa W oods' School, Box 182 Lau^orne, Pa.

MOLLTB WOODS HAHH, FTiHClpaL

SOUND VIEW SCHOOLFOR BACKWARD CHILDREN

Individual Inatructlon. Summer School )n Maine. 70 Prospect St., Portciicater, N ew York.

Tel. Portchester 16C8M.

T H E W R IG H T O R A L S C H O O LFor the Deaf and Partially Deaf

M t. Morris Park West, N . Y . City. Kindergarten to College Bntranco. A refined boarding and day school with home atmosphere. Large faculty, In-

I dividual attention. Out-door gymnasium, Inatructlon entirely by Oral and Aurlcnhir methods. Chiiiiren from four ycara up accepted. CO'*educa-

, Uuual. doth year.

T u to rin g

§Miss ConklinsSecretarial School

Professional TrainingThorough profesrioaaJ trainlns. lor secretaryships and executive positions.The SchooJ occupies tiW' Studios of the Tildea Buildiog; classrooms opening upon a roof gaiaen have abundance o f light and fresh air.The Bureau o f Placement is a tccog- n is ^ feature o f the School, Graduates are sought (o r responsible and executive positions.Applications received for fall Courses. Illustrated booklet,

10S W est 40th Street, New York Telephone Pennsylvania 3758

l -fflARINEGlBBSSCHOOL-/'Secretarial & Executive

T rain in g fo r e d u c a te d w o m en

O u r on e-year courses in H om em a k in g and In stitu tion a l M a n a gem en t w h ich include in stru ction in C oo k e ry , M a rk e tin g , H ou se hold M a n a gem en t, S ew in g , D ressm aking, a n d M illin ery are in va lu ab le t o a n y girl or w om a n . E x p e rt in stru ction . A recogn ized in stitu tion w ith residence fo r students. Fall Term Opens Oclob.r 1. Calalof Upon Request. AddrcaS' T h e School o f D om estic Arts A Science

Mias Lillian A- Kemp. Director— Box a8 6 North M icbiganAvcnue, Chicago. III.

T H E B IN G H A M T O N T R A IN IN G S C H O O LAn Ideal nrlvato hotnc-acbool for nervoua, back

ward and m eutal detoctlvea. N oa ge llm ll. Physical Culture. Manual iralnlne and all branches. Open year around. Tcnna $78 per month,

b ln and M as. a u g u s t A . B oi.dt, Supts. N ew Y o r k , Blnshamton, 1 1 2 Falrvlevr Ave.

The Quigley Institute cured every person tvho hos tnkyn its courso, PersonaI, indiyldi^l Instruction by tlie founder, who curc<l thirty years o f s t A m iD t T ln g . Bauoily efiectlvc ipr children and adults. Resident and day pupils.

W sS S -S t., Philadelphia, Peunayl-vaniu.

BOSTON 151 Coinmonweallh Ave.

Residence 90 Marlboro Sfreef Regislrar s Office

and School

NEW TORK 247 Park Avenue

PROVIDENCE 1SS Ansell Sireel

O ne-year course includes technical, econornlc and broad business training, preparing f o r superior positions.Tw o-year course lliclud-ipg five rollego Bublecis (or students not desiring college, but ts’ lshlng a cultural 83 well as business V acation .Sevan m onth*’ course— executive training tor college women and women with business experience.

Professional SchoolsA royou thinking o f studying M usic. Art. Dancing. Costume Dosignlng. Interior Decoration— a u y o f tho p r o f e s s lo D s V H arper's Bazar SobocI Bureau will help you find tb e right school-

f f l n ^ t e d S t a t e s , ,S e c r e t a r i a . ! S c h o o l

627 Fifth Avenue, New York CitySecretarial & Diialneas Training. Ask for CatalogB

Irving Edgar Ohaee, D lreeter 'V andcrbllt 2474

Old Co l o n y S choolSccrccarlftf a n d B u siness T ra in in g F o r Y o u n g “W om eQ G ra d u a tes o f

P r iv a te S ch oo l. H ig h S ch o o l o r C ollege . One year course prepares for Executive Positions or

Managomont of Personal Property. RE SID E N T AN D D A Y STU D EN TS. Booklet and Full Jjiformation cm R&ivest FLO R EN CE B . L A M O R E A U X , A .B ..

M R S . M A R G A R E T VA IL F O W L E R . P rin cip a ls 315-317 B ea con Street, B o sto n . M assach u setts .

BALLARDS C H O O L

Register Now ForSECRETARIAL COURSEE stablished 51 Y ears.

OlOLet.Avc. at53rdS t. C en tra lB ra n ch Y .W .C .A .

tibc jfannle n . Smttb IkinOergartcn Tlralning ScboolOur graduates In great demand. Intensive courses

In theory anfl practice. Unusual opportunliy for practical work. Grounds lor athletics and outdoorfife. , - - V, .......... .. . . . . . . LxlXJUUUB lUi uuu onci

Catalng. FANNre A. Su ith , Principal,1136 IraoistaQ Ave., Bridgeport, Conn.

Lesley School of H ousehold ArtsSpecial course— one year. Regular course— two years. D orm itory, N ew school bnlldlag. Summer camp. For catalog address

M r s . E n jT H L e s l e y W o l t a r d .29 Everett Street Cambridge, Maaa.

TheCambridge SchoolD om estic Architecture and Landscape Architecture

A Professional School for W omenIIE S R Y A T H E R IO rr FROST, R ( . A r c h -

15 Boylaton St. Cambridge, Maaa.

VALE UNIVERSITY SCHOOL OF NURSING

us kV WJ , UJ 4$ i—W o' .J I. V V ta w,, • • V- —. J. . ,i»nd N e w H «w en v is lB n e N u r s o S o r v ie * . A l in ii t c c numb e r o f e c h o lo rsh lo a w iU b o n v o iU b lo ( o r etudenC* w h o^ proseot a d v a n ced ed u ca tion a l ou n liA ca tion e . F u n in io rm a U on m ay b e obeB<Bo<l th rou ffh ( h o De^kn. V a l b Scsoob o r MuiisiNe. S3Q C « ^ r » C W HAVSN, C o n K.

C R O U S E -IR V I N G H O S P I T A LR eg istered T ra in in g S ch oo l fo r Nurses

Syracu se , N . Y .200 beds.

Tw o-Year Courae, leading to R - N . dcCTee. Eight- hour day. Including claffl work. Six-day week- One M onth Vacation Yearly.

P h y s i c a l E d u c a t i o nF o r W o m e n —A c c r e d i t e d

2-YcQr N orm al C oiusc for Directors o f Physical Education, Playground Supcrvisura. Dancing Tcacbera, and Swimming Instructors.

21s t Session opens Septem ber 15 , 1924 N ew gymnasium, new classrooms and labora

tories. now flormltorlcfl. All modern, up-to-dato facilities and eoulpmcQt.CHICAGO NORMAL SCHOOL OF PHTSICAL EDUCATION

Addresi— Resristrary Box 20 5026 G reenw ood Avenu«» C h icago , III.

Posse Nisson School oP Physical EducationMASsACtrusEiTS, Boston, 779 Beacon Street.

For women. 34th year, Xiodern buildiu . Comprehensive courses. Present conditions have cr> ated great demand for our sraduates. Coursps In M edical Gymnastics imd Playgrminds. Reglstor early Summer Camp. Apply to T tte Sbcbbtary.

(or Physical Educallon

MISS ILLMAN’S T R A IN IN G S C H O O L for Kindergarten and Primary Teachers

Juulor aculor and groduato courses. Primary methods, practice kindergortcna. Home-llke residence.A . T . ILLMAN, Prim.. Box B, 4000 Fine St., PLlla.. Pa.

H A R R IE T T E M E L IS S A M IL L SK iu d erd artcQ -P rim ary T ra in ln il School

Afllllated with N ew York University. Exceptional rueldencn faculties. Bxccllcut positions forgradu-

HABnihTTE M ills, PrincipalFive B New Y ork University Building

AVasLlneton Square, New 'io rk City

The Sargent SchoolE s ta b lis h e d 1 88 1 B o o k le t o n re q u e st

D . A . S A R G E N T L . W . S A R G E N T1 2 E v e re tt S t . , C a m b r id g e 38, M a ss .

P h y s i c a l E d u c a t i o nAccredllcrt- Co.ediicaclonBl. Tw o yoar Normal C ou rsejind B P B . Course. Fall term September IStb. D orm itory lor womom.A m erican C ollege o f P h y s lce l E d u cation .Dept. II- B .. 1019 Dlversey Parkway, ChlcuBo. Illinois.

S H O R T -S T O R Y W R IT IN GA P R A C T IC A D torty-lcasoii course In tlie writing and marketing ot tbe Short- Rtory tauCTt b y Dr. J- B etc Esenwein, Editor o f T b e W riter’s M ontniy. J80 page catalog free. Pleaee flijifr«s:

Dt. Sie.n.lB The Home Correspondence SeheolD e p t . 5 9 S D r in g lle lt l , M a s s .

T each ers’ Agencies

P R I V A T E T U T O RElementary and College Preparatory Branches—

M odern .and Claasleal Laitguagcs. Endorsed by leading schools o f the city.

Mrs. H. D. Re bans 62 West 84th StreetSchuyler 3822 New York City

THE F ISKT EA G H ER S’AGENCYOffers unbarnlleled service. Ncnrly every private school In America has employed ceacliers on oui recomm cQdailon,C . s. C R O S M A N , 225 F I F T H A V E ., N . V .

W O M E N !B E C O M E IN D E PE N D E N T

Im prove yoMT o w n a p p e a r a n c e w hile learning to im prove that o f others

B ecom e a m em ber o£ th is h igh ly respected profession. M arinello graduates, lea d everyw here — are k n ow n a n d sought— earn $3 ,0 0 0 to $ 20,000 a year. Learn scientifically and th orough ly at the largest a n d best-equipped schools o f beau ty cu ltu re in th e country . M arinello teaches Facia l an d Scalp Treatm ents, Sham pooing, M anicuring, M arcel and W ater- W avin g , Hairdreasiog, Perm anent W a v in ga n d Electrolysis.D a y and n igh t classes, a dva n ced a n d elem entary . E asy term s. C a ll o r rvrlte fo r ou r School Catalog.

T H E M A R IN E L L O S Y S T E M 36 6 B F ifth A venue 806B T ow er C ourt

N ew Y o rk C ity C h icago, 111.


44

P r o g r e s s i v e S c h o o l s A d v e r t i s e . T h e B e s t A r e H e r e

Professional

N E W Y O R K S C H O O L O F M U SICA re a l H o m e fo r M u s ic S t u d e n ts A N D A R T S Pupils

M ay Enter A n y D ayR A L F E L E E C H S T E R N E R . D ir e c to r

1 5 0 R iv e r s id e D riv e (C o r n e r 8 7 th S t r e e t ) , N o w Y o r k . r w.New York'B modern, up-to-date M usic Rcbool. All Branches ol M usic aod the Arts laught from the beBionluB to the hichest artlado finish by a dlsTlnsuiBbed faculty.

T e r m e t — T u i t l o n . B o e r d , P r a c t ie ln g , e t e . S e n d f o r b o o k le t .E u r o p e ’s a n d A m e r k s % M o s t E m in e n t T e a c h e r * S c h o o l D o r m Ito r le s — P r o p e r C h a p e r o n a g e

M chi In piano used exclufllvely______

Institute of Musical ArtPYank Damroach— Director. Endowed. AU branches o f music. Conducted only for students of real muBlcal ability and serious purpose. Catalog on request. D ept. O.1 2 0 C l a r e m o n t A v e . , C o r . 1 2 2 n d S t . , N e w Y o r k

^ncimtati onserttatorfi "fXHusicFounded 1807— Campus and Dormitories. Noted Faculty. Rend for brochure to B prttia B a pr . Director, 2009-2089 ITigblaud Ave. a t Oak St.. Cliielnnatl, Ohio.

THE WASHINGTON CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC

A n E tta b lU h td C ou M crvotary cm f u r m c n Una*. C o e r i t s ttic wn&Ceac e s d c roE «M iooiU m u i l ^ n * . Indl* v id u u req u ireu teo ta c a r e fu lly e n e ly s e d . S p ecia l a a o ^ rumIv t o a d va n ea e tu d e c ta p c o ie M lo c a J ly . a o m e n k a D orm ito r ia a . . . .P rp orC D ien U -V io liD . H a n o . V io lo n c e llo . P ip « O r s a o . M a rc. a te . H lacory o f U u a ic , L a n su a icca . H aru iony . L iie ra cu re . F a ln iin r . D rsm n tlce aod D e n ca .ERN ST W lA D IM IR LA.DOVICH. Presidmt1408 N«« lliupsliiis Av8.. IDuMtl Ckclel Wartitiltii, D. C.

It 1DENISHAW N

R U T H S T . D E N I S A N D T E D S H A W N

Sehool o f D ancing and its Related A rts

Fall Courses Open October 6thBeginninij, Intermediate and Advanced Classes

Denlahawn recognizes and endeavors to use everything vital and beautiful that has ever been contributed to the art o l the

dance b y any peoples o f any age.SH ORT COU RSES A L W A Y S O PEN

Cataloove Sffnl upon resuesl K A T H A R A N E ED SO N. Director

32T W e s t 2 9 t h S t r e e t N E W Y O R K

N B B W / V T B U R NC o m p l e t e C e u T s e e i o All T y p e s e t 3

n L a «*«a j o r G a J a e a fa r A d e lta o r O iiTdrae §A<t*ane«d Jn »B «e llon fo r T «a cb a r« s

fatWran’a Ciaaae* Saturday Memlnas sI P f l n /*r J r t B » iU * S » r C a ll in f e r m A t =

N E D W A Y B U R N |S tu d ios o f S tage D a n c in g . I n c . S

1841 B road w ay Y o r t |

S F A G E D /tfF C fA fC

Formerly Dane Inc Modtcr for ^lesfeld t ol 11 oe, J on n Cort. Cha«. Dllllogbam. L ee & J. J. Bbubert. (ico . M . Cohan, others. Teacher o f Marilynn Miller. Fairbanks Twins, Florence Walton and bun- dreds ot others Booklet H . Free* 5)00 7tb A v e . . N . Y . 8290 Circle.

C H A L I FR u stla n SchooT o f D A N C I N G

A rtIN

D a n cin g“ I atim ira y o u r en a ra y and

yuur w o r k . '* •—A n M raW ctM i.Cualcg cn R e je c t

163-1 6 5 W . B 7 th S t . . N . Y .

VESTOFF SEROVAR u s s ia n S ch o o l o f D a n c in g

Ballet, toe , nature and Interpretative dancing-

O riginal textbooks o n sale. WTUcfoTCauHog

Box B, 47 West 72d Sl„ NEW YORK

AM ERICAN ACADEM Y OF D R A M A T IC ARTS

Founded io 1 8 8 4 hy Franklin H . SargcnCA m e r i c a ’s L e a d in g I n s t it u t io n f o r D r a m a t i c a n d E x p r e s s io n a l A r c a n d T r a in in g

F u lly equ ips for

cActing 'Teaching T>irecting D eve lop s P o ise , P o w e r , Personality

F o r any V oca tion in Life.F a ll T erm begins O ctober 27th

E xtension D ram atic Courses in co-op eration w ith C O L U M B IA U N IV E R S IT Y

lUuitrated Catalog o f a l l Courses from R o o m 175V, C A R N E G m H A LL , N e w Y o rk

'? l^ i :^ e a tr e 5 c h G D lsU K A n A U K t . K A V U XX .b®

D A N C E A R T S P H O T O P I-A Y S IN G IN G

4 3 W E S T 7S=SS-i; NEW v w a iT h e ostonlshlug suecfess o f AlvlcDe Graduates U due *W mflflicrluJ Instructloo. and tbe s t o ^ experience afforded students o f the Alvlcne .Art Theatre, plus cm eminent faculty, headed by M r. Alvlcoe (HiussLP), tho famous Producer o f Celebrated Artists, who has taught M ary Picklord, Alice Joyce, Annette Kellermon, Joseph Saniley, T ^ lo r Holmes, D olly Sisters, M ary M lica Mlnter, H on y PUccr. Laurette Taylor, Fred and Adcle install, Mary Nash, Eleanor Painter. F loreoce Nash, M abel Ball In and others. W rite Sec. H a r p e r I b *w i s , atutlug study dcalred.

S C H O O L o f th e T H E A T R ET h r e s h o ld P la y h o u s e

Director*Clare Tree M ajor George Arllss W alter Hampden Elsie Ferguson Rachel Crotbers Jraiik Craven

a x months' s loe oxpcrleuoe b ^ fore graduation. D aocing— Frenclng —Voice developm ont— Pantomime — Sbak capcarc— Play-writ Ing, eic.

ii'cr term opens October 6th F or Cat alog ad d rca ’ ’ T b e Director,”1 230 F i f t h A v e n u e , N e w Y o r k C it y

ADELAIDE & HUGHES(America s Representative Dancers)

S tu d io o f D anco Class and pilvate iDSCructlou In all styles o f clanc- l i iE Stage dances created. Clilldrcn's Saturday claasm. Write for Catalogue B . 45 W est 67th Sc. r iu za 7635

NEW YORK SCHOOL of EXPRESSIONChatlered by Reeenls of N . Y . State Univ. j is ty e a r . Full term October 6 th. Class and private instruction. Voice trsduiDgf ..._____L i f . _____C . . , . . «. .4 ^f o r public speak i^ . S t a g e . Saturdtiy an<l evening classes. DefectIvespeecli cured. Catalog. 332 W est 55th S treet.N .Y .C .

A L B E R T I S C H O O L OF E X P R E S S IO N111 4 C a r n e g i e H a ll , N . Y . C .

(Efitraooo 7th A ve., cor. 50th St.)Regular Courses October l o Juno. Connected with .Stuart W alker's Compaiilee and Young People’s Theatre, Inc.

Edith Coburn Noyes SchoolOld English Drama Chaiacler Education

Analysis and Zntcrpretatlob o f Literature, Voloe, D iction.Costume and Scene Designing, Lighting. Play Production, M odern A n TecC- nlque, Fully Equipped Llttlo Tbcatrc-Porsonal Culture, Individual D evelopment and Balauee, Psychology, Pedagogy. French (Ycralu M ethod).Seventeenth year opens September 29.

E d ith C o b u r n N oy es , P r in c ip a l. S y m p h o n y C h a m b e rs , B o s to n

Leland Powers Schoolof the Spoken W ord. Distinguished for the success o f its graduates. F or cutoioguo address

T h e Director,Massachusetts, Boston, Upper Fenway.

Emerson College of OratoirLargest School o f Oratory Belles-lettres and P ed isogy In America. Summer Session. 44tu year. Degrees grunted. Address H a rry Seymoxjb R oss, Doan, Huntington Chambers, Boston.

E G A N SC H O O L O F D R A M AAffiliated with Egan Theatre,

Fr an k E gan , D irector Send for list o f successful graduates

L os ADgelus, California

Professional

BOSTON FLORENCE NEW YORK

THE NEW SCH O O L O f D ESIG N , INC.D0UC1.AS J o h n C oN N A H , President, x s t h Y e a r

School o f D raw ing and Painting,School o f IIlustratioQ.School o f Costum e.School o f In terior D ecoration .School o fA p p lied A rt and Teachers T ra in ing

T w o y e a r d ip lo m a c o u r s e . P r a c t i c e I I n e t r u c t ie n b y s p e c l e l i s t * . I m m e d i a t e r e s e r v a t io n a d v is e d . C la s s e * b e g in S e p t e m b e r f i r s t . B o o k l e t o n r e q u e s t .

24$ Boylslon Sbeel BosCon, Massachusebs

1680 Broadway New York, N. Y.

FLORENCE WILDEStudio of Illustration, 63 W. 9th St., New York

Pail*. io(

frosi Ost-Cils-

hillsS h o r t s u c c e s s f u l c o u r s e s

A ll b r a n c h e s C o m m e r c ia l I l lu s tr a t io n

Tit iherecognized professional international art school— begins Sept. 5th

N . Y . S c h o o i o f T ine & A pp lied A rtFrank Alvah Parsons. Pres. Wro. Odnin. V. Pr«s.

N ew York Paris London Florence W aiting Lists yearly. Register Nownteciet* A rc h lto c tu r a e n d D e c o re t io n i Stegre ani )oetu m fl D a u ffn : G ra p h ic A d v orfiv ln R ; C o is ip e re is )e « ig n ; T e a c h e r s ’ T r a in in g S a lo r d a y an d S p ecie

'' o i u s s s : l ie e tu r e e , ' 'P y n u m ie S v m m e u y ." o t c .

C ircu la rs: American and European

Address Sec. 2 2 3 9 B ro a d w a y , N . Y .

SCHOOL OF DESIGN AND LIBERAL ARTS

212 W < st SSIh S t r e e l , N . ¥ . C .I N T E R I O R D E C O R A T I O N C O S T U M E D E S I G N , L I F E

Four m en tis Intensive prxctlcnl training courses.

THE SEELEY SCHOOLI n t t e r i o r D e c o r a l i o m

Intensive practical course, tmd advanced course wllhleoturesandworkahoptrainlngdally. Morning or es'oning session beginuiug October first,

740 M a d is o n A v e n u e , N . Y . C .__________

N E W Y O R K S C H O O L O F A P P L IE D D E S IG N F O R W O M E N

160 Lexington A .e., N. Y. City. SSrd YearTextile Designing, Fashion Drawing, Poster and Cominercial Art. Interior Decoration, Historic Ornament. lUus- tration. Preparatory courses.

Positions and orders filled.

t h e N E W YORK. SC H O X o f INTERIOR DECORATION-^441 MADISON AVE N L W Y O R X

S b e r & i u . W a i T O N . D i r e c t o r P R A C T I C A L T R A I N J N O C O U R S E F A L L T E R M S T A R l 'S O C T . Stt

A four months* c o u r s e la period scylcs. color harmony, selectloa and U.1G of furniture, fabrics, ote. Also p rofC B sion a l and design coureee.

Send fo r CataJeg 40_______

BOSTON SCHOOL e f INTERIOR DECORATIONCorrcspondonco Coursca,

Course A— Proleaalonal Training Course.C o u r s e B — D o m e s t i c Course— H o w t o Plan Your

Own R oiue.____________ __ _Enrollm sul D m l t e d — W rite for Prospectus

Address P. 0 . 143, Boston (Copley Station), Moss.

The M aryland InstituteB a ltim ore , M ary lan d . NlNlDTy sbvent? year D cDartmcnts In Fine Art. N orm al Art, luduscrlal Art. sculpture, Teaclicra' Training, Arehfioeturc, M cchaoical Drawing. Address iU,ow B embnt, D irector.

VESPER GEORGES ch oo l

F in e a n d A p p lied Arts B o o k le t . 3 2 1 C o lu m b u s A ve., B o s to o . M ass.

E L IZ A B E T H M A C K S T U D IO SD r a m a t i c A r t a n d T h e a t r e R o u t in e

A ctu a l experience in p lay in g and staging. A ddress S e c e e t a r y , i s W . I 2th St., N . Y . C.

Professional 1

Traphagen School of FashionW ill remove September firet to Its more s p a c i o u s class rooms 1q the Rodin Studios 200 W est 57 th S treet. New Y o rk C ity

T h e first a u d o n ly art school in A m erica which bridges the gulf betw een th e am ateur and the p ro fessional. In it tb e schc*ol and business house are com bin ed.All phcises from eleioeotary to com plete mastery o f costume designing and Illustrating ore taught in shortest time com patible with thoroughness. W rite now lor announcement B . A d - drass

E T H E L T R A P H A G E NBryant Park Studio Building

80 West <iOth Street New York

C O S T U M E D E S IG N M IL L IN E R Y D E S IG N F A S H IO N IL L U S T R A T IO N

Instruction under personal direction o f E m il A lv in H artm an. Lim ited enrollm ent. Call or write for full i n f o r m a t i o n .

F A S H IO N A C A D E M Y 4 E a s t 5 3 rd S t . 1432 N o r t h B r o a d S t . N e w Y o r k C i t y P h i la d e lp h ia , P a .

CostuTne Designing

Y o u —and Fifth A ve. and

Brown’s Salon Studios6 2 0 Fifth A ve. N e w Y o r k

F a l l C l a s s e sB e g i n S e p t . 3 r d

ILLUSTRATION. CARTOONIN G,D R E S S D e s i g n , F a s h i o n s . C o m m e r c i a l A r t , S t a g eA R T . INTERIO R D E CORATION

A L W A Y S A W A I T I N G L IS T

A D VA N CE EN R O LL M E N T N EC ESSARY

ACADEMY or FINE ARTSC A R L N. W E R H T Z . J>/recHr

81 E A ST M A D IS O N STREET.CHtCAGO.ILL

N ATIO NAL SCH O O L O F FINE AND A P P L IE D A R T

Felix M ahoay, Prca.Interior Decoration; Cosnime, Commercial Poster, ATcxtUoDcsIgn. llluBtratlcnandLIIe.cta Catalog. C o n n e c ticu t AVG. a a d M . St.. W ash in gton , D. C.

Designing and IllustrationInspiring professions lhat pay. Learn to create exclusive styles In a well equipped and praclical school. Eorullmuni; Umltcfl. Individual Inatruo- iloii. D ay aud cvcti'ug claasoe, _

FA SH IO N A R T SCHO OL Scottish Hite Temple, Sail F t u d c Ib d g , Calltorala.

D E S I G N I N G and M I L L I N E R YDressmaking aud Pattern Cutting laugbtfor wbole- 84le. retail or home use. D ay anti Evening Classed. Call or write /o r pnrtlculurB. M cDowell Dressmaking and M illinery School. Esiubllsbed 1870. N o Branches. 68 W est 40th St., Now York.

Distinctive M illinery is the M ark o f a W ell D ressed W om an

Loam to create your own exclusive styles In a thoroughly pructleal aud well-equipped HCbool uudor th e personal direction o f an oxpcrt

Com pletion o f course permits fulflUlug rospoa- riblc, lucrative poelt ons. D ay aod Evening classes. Booklet upon request.

A D E L A ID E M I L L E R ST U D IO20 W E S T F O R T Y -N I N T H S T R E E T

N E W Y O R K C I T Y (Just o ff F ifth Avenue)Ayuntamiento de Madrid

by noicil specialist, how to

F E E D A N D T R A IN your dog _

K E E P r i l M H E A L T H Y and _

C U R E D O G D IS E A S E S How to put dOB 10 oonili- ilon kill lleas, euro scrutch- InB mfttige, diBietnper. ifvM iweuty-flve lutnousI S B t i i V c S l iW e U b ^ -u * e

_ 9 Q-W DOG REMEDIESI etc. iK'ailed/rce. 1I Q -W L A B O R A T O R IE S |

n .n t - Z B ound B rook, N ew Jersey

K il ls F le a sB lo w i t i n t o t h e d o g 's c o a t w i th a p o w d « r-g u n . i t w ill p r e v e n t h im f r o m b r in g Ing n e a s m to th e h o u se a n d k e e p h im c o m fo r ta b le a n d g o o d - te m - p e r ^ : n o d o g c a n b e s a fe i f to r m e n te d b y flea*. N o n -p o iso n o u s: harmle.'<a t o d o g s a n d h iu n a M . K ills in s e c ts b y in h a ia t io n . F le a s b re a th e n* a n d d ie . I n t h e r e d -a n d -y e llo w w ra p p e r b ea r in g

th e B la c k F la g t r a d e m a r k . A t a ll d ru g .o ce ry . d e p a r tm e n t e n d h a r d w a r e s to re s ,

m r e e s ize s: 15c., 4 0 c .. 7 5 c . ( e x c e p t w e s t o f D e n v e r . C o l,. C a n a d a a n d fo re ig n c o u n

t r ie s ) , O f d i r e c t b y m a il o n r e c e ip t ofp rw e . B L A C K F L A G . . .

SmsllwDod & E jf le Sis., BalilcBote, Md.

S N O W W H IT E E S Q U IM O PUPPIES1 T b e SToarwst. bandsomest and

cutest (toys on earth. Juet the ihloB lor cblldron. playful harmless ae a kitten anav e r y a f l e c t l o o a t c . A lw a y s liiUo f " P e p , " m y puppies arc raised on a Kunsae la n n . Pun o f vigor, picture of health. Send 5c in *4*’ UTS lor lllusiratetl catalog. Terms liberal. W i n B hJp on approval to fcaponslble parties. Guarantee sate delivery anywhere.

T H E B R O C K W A Y K E N N E L S . B a ld w in . K a n s a s

REAL GERMAN POLICE PUPPIES AND GROWN DOGS

From Blue R ibbon W innert from Pedigreed Stock. Also winning dogs at stud. S.tlBfled buyers Is our motto.

JA M A IC A F A IR V IE W KENNELS S28 U nion H all S treet, J a m a lco , L . I . . N . Y .

Tel. Jamaica, 3340-W

:TSILL

INE

'osier, xalog. D. C.

T h e Largest Ball D og Kennels in the W orldThia photo shows a well merited result o f a most excellent blending of the blood o l out most typical winners,W c have some puppiea now. Males Sso.oo up. Females laS-oo up, F E R N L E A K E N N E L S

B o i 8B s y v l l la , L. I ., N . Y .

i ' •

K I N D N E S S a n d C O M F O R TF or Y ou r X>og

How much raoru you will cn ioy you r trip this summer, knowing Chat your pal la having the same kind treatment that you w ould give him yourself aod the expert care o f a d o s fancier o f twelve years' experience.Boarding TraSnUig Showing

T O R R E Y A KENNELS U la a G e n e r ie v o T o r r o v , o w n e r ( f o r e lx y e a r e s e c r e U r y .

C o llie C lu b o f A m erica )Chestnut Ridgo Mt> KIsco, N. Y.

ioncreatoicticolleiruc-

'ornla.

iRYvholc^D rcs>

1878.It.

lark

a In a schoolespon-

F o r S a le aia^'toiSeulyham T erriers, W ire H aired F os T crr lo rs . all ages Shuw epecimcnsaud ftom pfiiil ons. Accoiii mod a- lien for boardcrs all brcpilB, Dntra win rocHvc hoine-Ukc trofttmcnt and best attention. R Y B U R N K E N N E L S , H ieh S v lH e . L o n g Island, N . Y . f e l e p h o n o 1 1 U . M n . A G o u l d l n g . P r e p .

DIO;t/enue)

S H E P H E R D ( P o l i c e ) D O G ST h e Id ea l C om p a n ion

a n d P ro te c to r W rite to d a y for Illus

trated B ook let

P A L IS A D E K E N N E L SBox 3. Sirinell.ld Gardens, L. I,

Juet 40 rainules fnaa MnnhftltAO

“ I L IK E D H I M F R O M T H E M O M E N T I S A W H I M ”

IT ’S a great satisfaction to get for people just the sort of a dog they’ve always wanted.

Here’ s a man in Kansas C ity, for Instance, who writes me, “ T he express company delivered the dog this morning about ten o’clock in splendid condition. H e was naturally very thirsty and hungry and excited but in a short time he began to act like a real dog.

“ And I liked him from the moment I saw him.

“ I sent him home and m y wife telephoned me a short time afterwards that he was already a member of the fam ily and was playing with all three children.

For a great m any years I ’ve been buying dogs for people. W hy not let me help you find just that dog you want ?

As the letter from Kansas C ity shows they can be shipped almost anywhere and arrive in “ splendid condition” and very soon adapt themselves to your family life.

Ju st write and let me know the sort of dog you want, the price you’d like to pay and other requirements. There’s no charge for this service.'

Care of H arpek 's B a x a r 1 1 9 Weat 40th Street,

Ne.v Y ork City

FREE DOG BOOKp o lk M il le r 's

farQous D o g B ook o n Diseases o f D og s also care, feed in g and breeding w ith S ym p to m Chart. W riteforit.

F re e A d v ic e D e p 't . answers a n y question abou t you rd og ’ shealth free. S ta te sym ptom s, B g o& b reed m w tiO n g. 1336B5\aok M4CCU <M <rra*v*..6 .P olk M iller D rug C o. R ich m on d , Va.

WIRE HAIREDFOX TERRIERS

A BDlondid l « t o f W lro H o ir i d I 'M “ JBusuly a n y b r e e d o f T «r - r i e r - i o r tk *y “ oe*-S u lly . H ig h est r e ie re n c e . F ifte e n y e e r e ' e x p e r ie n c e . W r ite CDS.

CH4S. POWIESLAND Niilh Shore Kessels

Prides Crossin, Mass.

If Your Dog Is Sickall run down, tJiln aod umhritty, with maturated eyes, bigh-eolorca urlac aud borsh staring coat, -eating grass"w on't help him, D .n j i Condition pm . will. They are a marveloiis tonic tor maaee, dls- i.cmiicr, Infllgest.lon and outolsorta. PrlcuSUc., (IruarlBts or mall,IlM tH « fid «C ».,K trtirtll,ll.t.

WI R E - H A I R E D F O X TERRIERS and Scollish Terriers. He&l SI>or(lng companlona for your country estate.A BLQall dog for your t o w n h u u so aud & sty lisli cbap lor your m otor car.

Mrs, Emma Hunter A lv la Kennels

Prlmoe, Del. C5o., Pa- 26 fflinu/cs from Phua,

Laosdowco. 1074

BelgianSchipperkesB e e l W e t c b d o g In th e w or ld . V Fonderfu l w ith eh iU uen . T1 ] i « sm ell h le e k U elglBn d o g w ith f o z . l ik e h eed . eborC e o e t en d a b s e n ce o f tail w h ic h h e s recon U y p r o o c o ■» D o p u lir In A m o n c e . w ^ h e l 0 t o l 4 l D e P o d in e o d . H er* (s te re d I’ u g p ice f r o m $8S u p .

VfRHtlU STOCK R.f.D. y. SoTHiiille. N. J.

PEKINGESEF IN EST AN D BEST EQUIPPED KENNELS !N T ^ W O R LD A lla ,.a «d m lo rs Chi.fl, “ Sl.eve Dogs” ,nd puypma C W p.sn Bred

SOM E AS L O W AS $25 SalUIsttion gu.r.nl,ed Send Isr pholnrxph. a"d

M R S . H . A . B A X T E R

SHERLEY’SEnglishDog Medicines

and LactolB e s t D o g R e m e d ie s in IlJe W o r ld

F o r S a le by A B E R C R O M B IE & F IT C H CO .M a d iso n A v e . 4 45th S t ., N e w Y o rk

a n d J o rd a n M a r sh C o .. B ostonBoolclel nailed free on requesl.

G e r m a n S h e p h e r d

D o g sW e h a v e eein e e x c o p . tlcpnal P u p a eirpQ by our noted In tem eU on e l Cbiui*-K1«o S ch e te V o f) Hoher*-

inn, C hfem pion ! • » V o o D o e r o e r h e f . A s t o r U o in A u g e n e tro s t .

6 IRALDA FARMS M a d is o n N e w J e r s e y

B o sto n T e r r ie r ^A few choice SDecloicna. both sexes, for sale, b y tbe celebrated

FASCINATION A. K . C, 107298

Finest head aud oxpresslou o f any dog In ib c couutry. Pricesm o o up. . .Send Bl&Dip for lUustrated

(Ocular. MASSASSOIT KENNELS

Box 195 Springfiold, Maas.

C ham pion C ira ld a 's S ch a tx

2 0 W on d erfu lG R E Y H O U N D P U P P IE S

M ako splendid corapanloaa. Bred from tbe very best stock. Stred b y International ctam pions. -Also a few grown Grcy- hounda. Nothing but the best offerea.

For particulars address B . Foster, K illarn K ettnels, MUlbroofc, New York

Fo r Sale— High cUi: W billing Wire-haired a n d S m o o t h F o x

Terriers, Irish Terriers. .Airedale Terriers, West Illgliland Terriers. Bull Terriers and mostly oil breeds for sale.

A pplyA L F D E L M O N Tl«ds K<mgls Wynitevfowi Pt.

A I R E D A L E S andWIRE HAIRED FOX TERRIERS .Puppies and p o w n dogs. 30 years a breeder. Buy from one who knows. otocKaod individuality the best, onccs.

H ighest rcfer-

ANDREW McCREA C hestaul Hill, PenMyt?anU

solid colors S50 up, R O W C L I F F E K C N N E L $ P O U G H K E E P S IE

COCKER SPANIELST he I4es1 sU sround

" M E R R Y C O C K E R "B e >3 e q o s l ly g o o d In (r>wn w c o u n tr y . lieiiBo «r fie ld . He [s the beet doc for cnU drea

Kd s e p le n d io h u n te r , w e VO them in bII ookm a a e e . G en ersU y • f e w ffood

snow prospects on hsnd. Partlcolors S3S up

S O U T H R O A D N E W Y O R K

2>pecimen puppy

Write far Fpoeisl of fs* mns* $homontWhiteColbe». We sro the world > bcorelrrA Uur White Ooihw brine beniity, wntehfoloees end ijvvotion into your borne. Write o-ieh for o e* offsr.

SHOUONT K E N N E l^ Box 10:t Monllcello.


46 H A R P E R ' S B A Z A Rf o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4

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4 8 E A R P E R ' S B A Z A R

S IN C E 1S47

Distinctive Apparelt o r

W o m en and G irls

Smart Dress Accessories Table L inens— Blankets

R .H . S T E A R N S C OT rem on t Street and T em p le Place

B O S T O N

A Shop o f Things Out of the Ordinary fo r Gentlewomen

Dresses

Coats

Suits

S\irts

Scarfs

Sweaters

Blouses

B O S T O N T e m p l e P l a c e ' E l e v e n

' J^”'H R O U G H th e narrow , crooked streets of

old B o ston the m ost notab le figures in

A m erican h isto ry and literatu re h ave tak en their

w a y . . . and th e charm o f old B o sto n and its

h isto ry still enchants th e v isito r.

B u t h ow different rea lly is m odem Boston

from th e c ity o f R e v o lu tio n ary , o r even E m er

sonian d ays. Som e o f the o ld streets and build

ings o f course rem ain , b u t B o sto n has buildings

and shops now th a t are th e la s t w ord in m odern

appearance and appointm ents.

A n d those w ho know sa y th a t v a lu e fo r value the B o sto n shops, the v e ry Sm artest o f them ,

com pare fa v o ra b ly w ith a n y other shops any

w here in the country.

Co.£Sfe6Jitnf<J

Summer, Chauncy and Avon Sts., Boston

A True Bostonianhas been defined as one who —reads the Boston Transcript

—subscribes to the SymphonyOrchestra

A N D

—has a charge account at

H O V EY’S, Boston’s old

est department store.

The Oldest ^American Linen Specialty House [E siaw isbcd 179a ]

M i .

W IL D R ose , T o p a z , W isteria — and 30 other exquisite

shades o f co lored dress linens that w e guarantee n o t to fade orshrinic under any conditions. Otherwise w e w ill replace material and all cost o f m aking. K o lo r K raft L inens, on e yard w id e, $ 1 . 1 5 a yard. Samples sent, and mailorders filled.

T. D. Whitney Co.Everything in PJnens

2 8 8 B oylston Street, B o s t o n

rv

I. Mf lQNlNSrCQQranJ Eh'emit „ C/cmv Ciircrl d m Sfrnjiosco

d niporien and Relailers ofEXCLUSIVE APPAREL

ACCESSORIESsses

HOLLYW OOD6340 HptlTumd

LOS ANGELESTKs Anbauedot

PASADENA

C O R O N A D ONetel CoTOfiode

SANTA BARBARAThe AfktifUtB

DEL M ONTEHotel Dei Monce

W H E R E to S H O P in C A L I F O R N I A

C O M E H O W , E astern ers when th e y th in k of C a lifo m ia th in k o f oranges and H ollyw ood

and le t it go a t th a t, fo rgettin g th a t th e cities of C a lifo rn ia w ere urbane, cosm opolitan and cultured y e a rs and y e a rs before m ovin g pictures w ere even dream ed of. A fte r a ll, m odem m ethods o f tran sp o rta tio n and p rin tin g h ave brou gh t M a rk e t S treet v e r y close to th e m e de la P a ix . In C a lifo rn ia one sees wom en ju s t as sm artly dressed as on F ifth A ven u e, and new fash ions a lm ost as soon as th e y are launched in P aris . A n d o f course th e shops th a t ca ter to these w om en offer the finest sort o f m erchandise from the m arket-p laces o f all the w orld.

S m a r t S a n F r a n c i s c o s k o p s a t L i e k e s !

f u r s • f r o c k s • c o a t s s u i t s * k a t s a n d

s m a r t a c c e s s o r i e s

groBl tiveuBt ar Pot/ PratieiKfi


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 449

G M h Ah 'try a

T h e P a ris ian B o o te ry has lon g been a fa v o r ite sh op n o t o n iy w ith w om en o f th e th ea tre b u t w ith all w om en w h o lik e a da sh o f coq u etry in the shoes th e y w ear. T h e n ^ au tu m n co lle c t io n presen ts the latest ten den cies o f th e m od e in m odels , h ig h a n d lo w heels.

B o o k l e t o n r e q u e s t .

A . • a •

W x f M M a y j2 17 W e s t 4 2 “ ' S t r e e t . N .Y

I l « t T « The TKealrts

1A S T A pril H arper’ s Bazar started these

“ Where to Shop” pages w ithtwopages from Paris — and now Paris, N ew Y ork , Chicago and Boston are represented.

I t is really an interesting directory of smart shops that is of particular interest to readers not only, of course, in the cities mentioned but t o ' travelers to those cities.

F o r the readers of H arper’ s Bazar have the delightful habit of traveling constantly in their own country as well as abroad.

I /

AFeaturing the^ C A S T I L L I A N ’ '

BLO N D E SA TIN —All Pftteat Loatlier .All Patent Leather with

Silver Strlpo Tongue Patent Leather Vam p and

Sahorah K id Quarter . Soborah K id v a io p an /\w i ' P a tcot l.catlicr .

Quarter / l l

£ > r n iC j

/D iscn 'm m atiao w o m a r u

'-jn c h ’i 'e o c y / e <3 r e a . i i o n s

/hiNA B w r e R v : -MINA SOMMERS,

P l ' K ' ^ K X e r i I -4 5 3 M a d i s o n Ave.

N .Y C ity .

T he P la sa a! Fifty-seveM h Street and F ifth Aeetiue fro m whieh oris- locralU residences su in g north and arisloeralic shops su in g south.

THE AVENUE H .

From seashore and mountains, ■people

flock hack to town

y \ F T E R A L L , there is something inspiring about the

i \ first cool days of fall. T he electric signs seem to

blaze forth more brilliantly; the theaters are reopening

their doors; even the traffic policemen seem to smile a more

cordial greeting. And as for the shop-windows, they

sparkle with the modes and fashions of a new season.

All N ew Y ork , in fact, rouses itself from its long summer

lethargy and prepares to welcome back its own children

as well as the children of a thousand races and climes who

crowd its thoroughfares.

T h e women who read Harper’ s Bazar, browned from the

sun and the wind, rush back to town with a thousand-

and-one requirements. And the shops of the great city,

burnished, restocked and proud of their varied assort

ments of all sorts of new merchandise, are ready to welcome

them with the crisp wares of a new season.

M I L L I N E R Y

6 W est SJth StreetA siefi from Fifth Aoenue N E W YORK

The W orld’s Show Place o f Fashion

H A T S , GOW NS,C O A TS and W R A P S

P rices Never Excessive

T o i n t r o d u c e i t s N e w M a i l O r d e r D e p a r t m e n t , t h e

PARK HOSIERY SHOP2591 B R O A D W A Y , N E W Y O R K

M a k e s T h i s V e r y S p e c i a l O f f e rFulI-FaA ioned M edium W eight Silk Full-Fashioned Sheer Silk Hosiery

H osiery (Lisle T o p and F oot) (Lisle T o p and F oot)

$1.59 a pair or 3 pairs, $4.50

Bed. S e n d m oo e y order o r check . ______________

A F ren ch Shopw ill o p e n ab ou t Septem ber 15th,

specializing in Exclusive A p pare l

fo r Infants and L ittle Boys a n d G irls

t o 12 years

E v ery th in g designed S titch e d a n d em b ro id ered

in Paris b y F ren ch N e e d le w o m e n

M A P A M E W ILL B E 3 E B V E D B Y FH EN CH

SALESiitiJMEN

Im ported T oys L e n d D olU

Portra it D olU


so

J la c k sto n c ^hnpExclusive apparel for uiomen

Presenting Paris models selected at the recent openings by our buyers. Also our own creations

630 M ich ig a n Blvd.. S,

C H IC A Q O

'(9IU5

Gpmbination. B o o k and M agajine

CabinetIS one o f the

Manj) New>Zork P ie c e s

Dai'icUorkCo.Farnifure-Decorations

a o i - 2 0 ?North Midiiian Blvd. Chicago.

tD

A U T U M N I N C H I C A G OAlong M ichigan A venue the F irs t Tang

o f F a l l is IVelcomed Joyously

F^A LL approaches! The pageant of fashion and of new fashions appears once more on Chicago’s well-loved

Michigan Boulevard. The air from the Lake is a bit crisper; the shop-windows again glitter with m any a fascinating frock

and hat and jewel; there is an appraising eagerness in the

well-dressed woman’s eye.

Somehow, as one glances up and down the Boulevard, one

recalls the R iviera. For just as the R iviera is the playground of Europe for those cosmopolitans who are leaders of fashion,

so Michigan Boulevard is the show window of the middle

west where one chooses the correct mode for every occasion

— and knows that it is the correct mode.

b u y e r s of the smart shops have just returned fromT Paris. T hey have brought with them the best that Paris

has had to offer— cunning new fabrics and fancies, delightful new frocks and gowns and wraps, hats that whisper to the

observer their Parisian birth.

c A u t h o r i t a t i v e i n C h i c a g o -

Furs ' Cloth Coats Millinery

J o in I S m y n e s G!M IC H IG A N A T R A N D O L P H

J ^ a r t h a

WeatheredShop

T H E D R A K E H O T E L

Devoted to the requirements of those seeking the U l t r a In Apparel

theM

Weathered<dMisses

Shop

anof

O PP O SIT E T H E D R A K E

A m erica ’s Smartest Footwear

w. .

C H V O L F E L T C O'^ B O O T E R YSnarlSho^iarlSho9tf6fV itm

Cuftiis U WoLno;r CizAfusNoe J Stbvbns &S-60-C2 Bast Hndieon SU«et

C h ica g o . Illinois

Alw ays Something N ew fo r the Follower o f Footwear Fashion

NEW YORK600 Michigan Boulevard, South

CHICAGO

T he O r i g i n a t i o n s o f

S a l l y M i l g r i m“ Amertco'a Fa'vmoit

FasHio n C rca tor ”

GOW NS.fROCKS.SUITS W RAPS-FURS

Shown simultaneously in Chicago and New York

MILLINERY • LINGERIE NEGLIGEES . ACCESSORIES


51

S13 B iv d - SoalB

announcing

the return o f

M rs. Blum from Paris

and a rare display

o f original models.

Gcrwns Wraps

^/lillinery

E ia b l'iih ii iS jd

IV. p. Nelson CompanyN . / . A V /«« , PnudxTJt

6 / 4 S. M iekigd* yjverattChicag(C

•eArt Objects iAntiqnes

Vamps and Shades Period Furniture

'Decorative Ideas

Jug North t f the Bloikaont

E S T A V U S H B D 1 857

C H A R L E S E . G R A V E S A N D C O M P A N Y

Diamond Merchants Jewelers

Silversmiths

Diamonds, Pearls and other

Precious StonesM a i l ( N g u t K iB S t K v r t s o

Madison Street at

Wabash Avenue C H I C A G O

t o - L T U

IN D E E D , the woman who shops on the Avenue sees in many windows the same creations that a few weeks

ago she saw in Paris. As she walks from the Drake Hotel south she sees such shops as Martha Weathered, and a few blocks further south, Giddings and M cAvoy’s; just over the bridge, Pearlie Powell, then David Zork Company and John T . Shayne; Anna Korshak, and just a step or two off the Avenue at Madison are Wolfelt’s and Charles E . Graves.

From the Blackstone walking north is the Blackstone Shop, H. S. Frank, W. P. Nelson, Milgrun’s, then Blum’s and The Vogue,

Y e t A M E R IC A is represented as well as

Paris. The most adroit, the •smartest creators and manufacturers of America find representation in t h e s e shops a n d s h o p - w i n - dows.

In fact, Michigan Boulevard may well boast that she has gathered, from the market places a n d th e ateliers of the entire world, the choicest things with which to please Madame’s fancy and her exacting good taste.

The new season begins a n d Michigan Boulevard smiles and is ready.

& C jid Jim s6?5 Michigan Ave., No.

'u r s H a t s

G o w n s W r a p s

OUR OWN EXCLUSIVE DESIGNS

In the Heart of Chicago’s new style

center

c/lnna «}(mAhak Cb

TKe Mode as it is to te— Fall and W inter 1924-25

T e n M icliigan B ou levard . N o r tkC H IC A G O

" y H E returrt o f our , buyers from Paris is the outstanding social occasion of Chicago’s s ma r t set. Or i g i n a l models now on display.

B L U M ’ SCongress Hotel Block

524 S. Michigan A t etute

‘Tomorrow’s Fashions Today"

V 0 U > £ i{F o rm tr ly M i n 'Peariii)

320 M ich igan A v e .. N o rth

M a d e to P le a s u r e R e a d y to V F e a r

M iss P earlic kas just returned from P a n s w itk all o f tke new est modes f o r A u tu m n and AV^inter

B e s t V a lu e s in B e t t e r C lo th es

M IL U N E R

616 s. Michigan Ave. (Arcade Bldg.)

D IS T IN C T IV E

M O DELS

Creations both becoming and sman


52

Bori! Elman I Homer IHear them in your own home tonight. Hear them as the artists

themselves have elected to he heard-on the Victrola. Regardlessof size and price all Victrola Instruments — made for that onepurpose—^evp l the full heauty of the marvelous Victor Red SealRecords. Don t think you can get as good music from an inferior^ W using Victor Records or vice versa*

u • u Victrola styles from $25 up, each representing thehighest quality and the utmost value for the money*

) UnderwoodUnderwood

BO R I Victor Artist

® Misbkiu

E L M A N Victor Artist

Peyton

H O M E R Victor Artist

“A corner of nature seen through a person^ity” was Zola’s definition of art and so it is that there is fresh interest in observing the changes which the personality of a singer may make in the interpretation of any piece of music. The qualities which draw people to the Metropolitan Opera House to hear Bori sing will draw you to these Victor Records:

Rom eo and Juliet-Juliees Waltz Song anow Maiden—I Know the Song o f the

Lark

Double-faced

5 4 2 $ 1 .5 0

5 4 6 1 .50D ^ a —Tarantella Napolitana Villanella (Sibella)BobSme—M i chiamano Mimi Pagliacci-BallateUa-Che volo d’ augelli 2.00 V ictrola N o . 100

M ahogany, oak o r walnue

The Elman tone is a thing of wonder among violinists as well as to the vast multitude who participate in music by hearing it. That this tone should be as conspicuous in his records as it is in his personal performance puts such records as these among the world’s great works of art:

Ca VatinaSouvenir de Moscow| Orientale Souvenir (Drdla)Serenade (Drigo)

■ Traumerei

Double-faced - 6 0 9 3 $ 2 .0 0

5 9 9 1 .50

6 0 0 1 .50

W ith a long career on the grand opera stage, it is incredible that Louise Homer would continue to make records which, in the light of her experience, did less justice to her art. Hear the records listed below and you will share the great contralto s assurance of Victor reproduction:

Double-faced I 6 8 1 $ 1 .5 0

1 Love to Tell the Story Where ig M y B oy To-nightBanjo Song Oh, Promise Me (from “ Robin Hood”)Largo (from “Xerxes”)Stabat Mater—Fac ut portem

6 8 0 l.SO

6 1 6 7 2 .0 0 , , , , V ictrola N o .4 0 5 W alnut, $ 2 5 0 i electric, $ 2 9 0

T h ere is but one V ictro la and that is m ade b y the V ictor C o m p an y— lo o k fo r these V icto r trade marks

• a TRADE MARK ^

l e t r o l a

H I S M A S T E R jS V O I C E ' \^ctor Talking Machine Company, Camden, N.J.Victor Talking Machine Co. of Canada. Ltd., MontrealAyuntamiento de Madrid

53

S E P T E M B E RN u mb e r 2543

57th Ye ar1 9 2 4

F u r s a n d F a b r i c s N u m b e r

A v i s

'T 'O U S les modeles reproduiis dans noire magazine sant J- la proprieti de Icurs cr6aieurs. Les reproductions, imi- talioHS OH contrefaqons mtme parlielles peumil touiours entrainer canlre leurs auteurs des ponrsnites de la pari des crtateurs el de I' Association des Arts Plastiques el Appliques en France el d I'Etrangcr.

H e a d s , H a t s , a n d H a p p i n e s s

SEPTEMBER, and the autumn is upon usi And with one eye on the calendar, tliis September Harper’s

Bazar presents what every woman wants to know, what every woman must know if she is to spend the autumnal days with a fair degree of content and happiness. Turn therefore to page fifty-five and its portfolio showing exactly how the hair should be worn and exactly the sort of hat that should cover it. And now that tlie reign of the ubiquitous cloche is ended, we find a large variety of ncw hats to choose from. The high hat, announced in Harper|s Bazar over a year ago, has definitely arrived; the beret is making a new bid for favor, and diverse shapes based on the man’s sailor hat and derby, as well as his high hat, offer possibilities to the woman who wishes to dress a bit ahead of the mode.

C o i f f u r e s f r o m L o n d o n a n d P a r i s

Th e coiffures shown in this portfolio were sketched in Paris by Reynaldo Luza of tbe staff of Harper’s Bazar,

at Giro’s in Paris and London, at the Embassy Club in London, at the Ritz in Paris, and other cosmopolitan and ultra-smart restaurants.

N e w F a s h i o n s i n F u r s a n d F a b r i c s

Th e Parisian furriers are creating extraordinary new furs. There is, for instance, renard d' eau or watcr-fox.

No one knorvs from whence it comes, yet very charming it is in soft fluffy gray or beige. Broadtail will be much usc and, of course, sable, ermine, and chinchilla maintain their very expensive prestige. The interesting details arc in van Campcn Stewart’s article on page seventy-three. Fascinating, too, is Baron de Meyer’s account of his visit to the great Paris houses of Rodicr and Biaiichini-Pdrier, where weaving on hand-looms retains all the beauty of an ancient and honorable art.

Cover, by Erte• "Louiseboulamger,” Frontispiece by Etienne Drian...................................................... 54

New Smart Ways to Dress tbe Head, by Marie LyonsDrawn by Reynaldo L u za 55. 5®, 57. 5o> 59D raw n by M a ry M a cK in n on ^ 1Drawn by M alaga ............................................................................ .......

Hermap Patrick Tapp6 Tells of Soft Woolens for Early AutumnDrawn by Katharine Sturges..................................................................... ..

Snapshots of Smart Americans and Parisiennes ..........................................................66,67“ The Meadow Larks,” by Helen Bullitt Lowry

Illustrated by P aul B row n ................................................................................, bp“ The First Embrace,” A Story of a Satisfying Reward, by E. Phillips Oppenheun

Illustrated by M arshall F ran tz .................................................................... 7i“ Luxurious, Strange New Furs Make the Smart Winter Silhouette,” by van

Campen Stewart.................................................................................. ..Furs from Both Ncw York and Paris Houses

Draw n by Katharine Sturges....................................................................... 79

“ That Phoenix, Memory,” A Glamourous Hint of Old Venice, by F. BrittenAustin o-

Illustrated by M aurice L . B ow er .......................................................................01Baron de Meyer Visits the Houses of Rodier and Bianchini-FOrier...............82, 83, 84,85“ Semi-Attached,” A Story of a Social Experiment, by Anne Parrish

Illustrated by John LaG atta ’ I

The Tailored Frock Has New Success, by Lucile BuchananDrawn by Grace H a rt ........................................................................88,8g, 90,51Drawn by M a in B ocher ................................................................................9 ^’

Portrait of Mrs. Felix D . D oubleday........................................................................... 94“ The Face that Launched a Thousand Quips,” by Mildred Cram

Illustrated by W allace M orga n ......................................................................... ..“ From Old Painted Beds These Lovely Bedrooms Grew,” by Ruby Ross Goodnow

D raw n by Grace H a r t ..................................................................................... .97

Portrait of Raquel Meller..................................................................................................“ The Mirror of the Theater,” by Percy Hammond...................................................... 99Some of the Smartest New Motors

Drawn by Samuel D . O tis ........................................................................ ’Last Minute Sketches from Paris.................................................................................The Newest Accessories from Paris..................................................................................

N E X T M O N T H : T H E P A R I S O P E N I N G S N U M B E R OF H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

j : j

I j« m



o u i a n p o p

The house o f Louiseboulanger, one o f the new houses in P aris, has recently distinguished itself by brilliant success. The spirit o] the house is decidedly modern; its designs are young, fresh , and 'dgorous. The series o f black and gold screens, shown by Drian in the drawing above, are rather typical o f the spirit o f the house.


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 455

^ •' ' . / . ( p i

The characteristics o f the chic head-to-day are: straight hair, either shm ghd or bound closelp to the head with a knot in back; the display o f ike ears; extraiMganily long earring\; a necklace with clasp or pendant in front, here aquamarines and pearls.

N E W S M A R T W A YS T O DRESS T H E H E A DJ Portfolio Devoted to the Original Coiffure, the Jewel

f o r the Head, and the New Winter Hats

B y M a r i e L y o n s

T H E C O I F F U R E ^ U R L S have p a ssed w ith o th er f r ip -

p e r ie s . T h e sm a rt w o m a n o f to -d a y esch ew s a c u r l a s the p la g u e a n d o n ly a s p e c ia l fa ta li ty ca n in d u ce h er to w ea r even a w ave— so m e s p e c ia l p h y s ic a l ch ara cteristic w h ich d em a n d s th is s o f te n in g tou ch . T he h eads on e p a r ticu la r ly r em a rk s , the d is tin g u ish ed , the s tr ik in g h eads, a lm ost all sh ow stra ig h t h a ir . T h is h a ir is p re fera b ly sh in g led , b u t i f n o t, is b o u n d s o tigh tly to th e head as to g ive a lm ost th e e ffe c t o f a sh in g le . E v e r y d a y the h a ir is c lip p ed a little c lo ser to the h ea d , b ru sh ed m ore sev ere ly , a n d sh ow s m ore o f the ea r . T he m ore m a scu lin e ty p es o f sh ingle

T H E J E W E L ' T ' H E sm ooth , sm a ll h ead o f the sm art I w om a n o f to -d a y i s th e lo g ic a l c lim a x

to th e c lea n , sm oo th lin es o f the b od y . The head m u st g ive a n e ffe c t o f u n ity a n d the m a k e-u p m u st be ca re fu lly p la n n e d to p r o d u ce th is effect. T h e m ou th m u st he red , s tr ik in g ly s o ; th e ch eek s sm oo th , w h ite or on the olive sh a d es w ith o n ly a fa in t su g g estion , i f a n y , o f r o u g e ; the e y e s b rillia n t, dark , clea rly o u tlin ed ; the h a ir m u st f i t closely a s a ca p a n d a p p ea r a s a n in teg ra l p a r t o f the w hole m a sk , fo l lo w in g the lin es o f the fa c e . T h e je w e l— ea rr in g s , n eck la ce , ban d ea u ,— m u st be a n in teg ra l p a rt o f the to ile tte a n d a ccen tu a te , n o t b rea k , th e lin es .

T H E H A T

7~ 'IIE ad vance w in ter m od els in d ica te broa d ly the lin es that w ill be fo llo w ed .

M a s c u lin e l in e s p reva il— the d erb y , f e l t hat, sa ilo r , a n d h igh hat. T h e h igh hat, a n n o u n ced a s a m od e in H a r p e r s B a z a r a y e a r ago, is o n ly n ow b eg in n in g to be gen era lly w o rn here. T h is D ir e c to ir e s ty le is w ell rep resen ted o n p a g es s ix ty , s ix ty -tw o , and six ty -th ree . I n gen era l, c row n s w ill be h ig h er ; s o m e crow n s s q u a r e ; the tru e cloche n o n -ex is ten t , o n ly its v a r ia tio n s b e in g p e r

m iss ib le ; th e beret w ill m a k e a n ew b id f o r fa v o r here. L a rg e a n d m ed iu m hats have as little ch a n ce f o r fa v o r a s in p a st sea son s. B r im s w ill tu rn u p , p r e fera b ly o n th e s id e .


56 H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A Rf o >

A distinguished Russian at a recent dinner party at Giro’s , in P aris, wore her smooth black hair braided in this unusual but telling manner. From her ears depended the longest earrings one could well wear— o f antique gold with drops o f clear amber— her only jewels.

T H E JE W E L FOR T H E H EA D HAS FOUR POSITIONS — T H E HAIR, T H E EAR. T H E T H R O A T . AND

T H E SHOULDER

Earrings, worn recently at L e Perro- quet, were o f diamonds set in gold, an antique pair more remarkable fo r beauty o f workmanship than intrinsic vahie. A bandeau o f black velvet outlined with pearls bound the hair, and the necklace was o f pearls.

Two short necklaces, one o f black pearls and one o f white with a large emerald pendant at the back, were worn at the Embassy Club in London. The unusual coiffure shows the hair, parted at the side, all brushed towardone side across the back o f the head.Ayuntamiento de Madrid

f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 457

A n odd pair o f diamond earrings, excessively long as so m any are now that Ike ears are being displayed, was- worn by an Am erican at Giro's in London. The coiffure has been sharply clipped at the sides to show the ear. The necklace was o f cut crystal.

The shoulder p in has been smart in P aris fo r several seasons now and should be more worn here. This one, worn recently at Giro's, London, is o f diamonds with two pendant pearls. The pearl necklace with its emerald drop follows the outline o f the decollet6.

I t is difficult but not impossible to wear jew els in the shingled coiffure. A chic Parisienne at Le Jardin de ma Soeur wore a bandeau o f diamonds across the back o f her hair, alternating black and white pearls in her ears, and a pin o f three pearls at her shouldtr.

AS THEEAR BECOMES MORE P R O M I N E N T , T H E EARRING COMES MORE

INTO FAVOR AND GROWS LONGER


58 H A R P E R ' S B A Z A R

A t the Theatre Champs ElysSes a smart Frenchwoman xvore a white camellia on one side o f a low knot o f hair. This is a typical French coiffure for long hair— brushed severely back, displaying the ears completely, with a long knot, low on the neck.

LON G H A IR PICTURESQUELY ARRANGED

FOR T H E E V E N IN G

This coiffure wasseenattheSavoy, London. Blonde hair, fa in tly waved, was caught on the side witk atinybar o f diamonds, then looped to a knot at the back o f the neck.

Brown hair, straight, with a qm int bang, was drawn to the nape o f the neck and bound into odd bows o f hair; seen recently at tke Chateau de M adrid in Paris.

Between the knots o f blonde hair over each ear runs a bandeau of delicate artificial fiowers. On the dark green velvet wrisl-band is placed an enormous emerald.


J o t S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 59

H ere, straight black hair is clipped to show oidy the back half o f the ear. This is a charming new way lo wear a necklace.

I t might be called “ L e Cog d'Or,” this blonde coiffure with curled ends brushed in back to a peak, somewhat resembling a rooster’s comb and displaying the ears.

A notable Parisienne wears her black, straight hair in a Jeanne d ’A rc shingle. A p a ir o f antique gold filigree earrings in the hidden ears match the necklace.

T H E H A IR O N E REM ARKS P A R T IC U L A R L Y IS

STRAIGHT—AND SHINGLED

A t the Rits in Paris was seen this severe shingle, its only softening touch a curve o f hair in front o f the ear, which is entirely shown, almost demanding e a r r i n g s .



The high hat is o j black halier's plush faced -wilh 'brown, with one black and one brown feather fancy.

A brimless high hat is made o f three shades o f brown velvet, a point to note. M a n y hats will be crushablc.

L E M 0 N N 1 B R

A n excellent exam ple o f the D irec- toire high hat is o f terra cotta velvet with grosgrain ribbon band and matching blondine fa n cy trailing low.

(Below) The high postilion hat o f the Direcloire is the inspiration o f many smart hats. This one is o f black hatter’s plush with ostrich cocarde.

A C N E S

J

I k

Models imported by

J A Y - T H 0 R P E

Crushable high hat o f jad e green felt wilh a cone o f the same, both brim and cona unfinished and unbound.

T H E HIGH HAT, D IR E C T O IR E IN FE ELIN G , W ILL

P R E V A IL

li M A R I A G U Y


{ o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 61

Models imported by

R O L L E

R E B O U X

The heret, always l o v e d a n d w o r n b y t he F r e n c h w o m a n , m a k e s a new bid fo r favor here. It is here seamed and gored to a wonderful shape.

A "jeu n e fille ” set o f matching hat and scarf is made o f giay satin-backed duvetyn with borders o f moleskin triangles alternating with triangles o f silver soutache.

This hat o f brown hatter's plush, in many points, beloved o f the Frenchwoman, has a ring o f kolinsky from which hangs a long, brown net sca rf banded with the plush.

T H E BERET A N D O T H E R SOFT

SHA PES W IL L HAVE A P L A C E

M A R I A C U VPosed by

R O S A L I N D F U L L E R•E B O U X

s u z y

l i is the difficulty o f producing a definite hne with the iam-o'- shanler that makes it unpopular with Am ericans. The Frenchwoman understatids how to achieve many wonderftdshapes. This one IS o f black

Black patent leather is pasted to grosgrain ribbon to make one fabric, a new note in winter m iliinery; v a r i o u . s materials are thusglued together to produce a two-material effect. H ere there is a border o f kolinsky gills.



/ i ' /) \ - o J

V ^A G N E S

M asculine types— Ihe derby, high hal, sailor, and felt— set the fash ion to-day. This derby is o f black suede with, on each side, a pinwkeel o f coq feathers in blue, black, yellow, and green.

A gain on the “ bowler” type is a hal o f black satin with a slightly rolling brim and a silvered coq feather.There is a tendency toward a sparse trimming.

One o f the rare large hats is o f stiff black felt, plaited on one side, with a band, bow, and binding o f black

R B B O U X

HATS MODELED ON MASCULINE TYPES COME

TO RULE THE MODE

R E B O V X

A G N E S

A gain a "bow ler” o f black satin in strips with a velvet brim trimmed with a roll o f twisted gold wire and a clipped black ostrich brush.


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 63

R E B O U X

A fter a season o f "nude ' ' hats, this black fell model with its two enormous red roses may seem over-lritmned, but time will prove it smart. The cloche, when used, must absolutely be turned up.

(Right) The masculine sailor is m t neglected in Paris. This one is o f black halter's plush with a grosgrain hand. I t will receive new favor here.

A varying roll to the brim gives this cloche a natv fed in g . I t is o f stiff beige fd t with twonalural lynxpom pons.

R EI B O V X " M o

R E I i O U X

The m asculine high hat is the basis o f this black grosgrain hat with a crow’s head o f clipped black glycerinizcd ostrich.

NEVER THE TRUE CLOCHE BUT VARIATIONS OF IT HOLD

A STRONG POSITION

Posed by R A Q U E L H E L L E R

Models on both pages imported by H A T T I E C A R N E G I E


6 4 H A R P E R ' S B A Z A R

■ L o l i t a

D i s t r e s s

P a g e

■i\-

V-fc , A

P h y l l id a


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 65

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M iss Sylvia Hillhouse al Bailey’s Beach in Neivporl.

A l N ewport, also, is Laura Biddle o f Philadelphia.

S M A R T F O L K OF A M E R I C A IN T H E I R S U M M E R P L A Y G R O U N D S The P rincess de Braganzais a

member o f theN esvporlcolm y.

M rs. E dw inW arner and ll'ff- Uam D . W arner at Southampton.

Reginald Vanderbilt and W alter S. Andrews at the annual outing o f the X ew pori Clambake Club.

M rs. Clement Tobin, M rs. L ou is de L ’A igle M itnds, and M iss EnidR ikeraiEastham pton.


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 67

The young Priiicassc o f A pretty dihutanle. M iss I a n llcu -Grccce at P olo Bagatelle. kcloin, at Longcbanips for the races.

The M arquise de Triquerville on the The Diichcsse d ’.lycii in asteps o f the new tribune at Auteuil. gray crtpc Chanel frock.



t 'I I

'i

a, IK o K « o4 Ik s ' i . .n I g k i - .

L*’v pe^ 4+o

, f f .f .k

IAyuntamiento de Madrid

f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 469

• e .tv v c s t v e t i j r a q ^ ,

4 » r + U C j V o > , y v A

E M E A D O W L A R KPolo Ponies Replace Yellow Roadsters

A m ong the Smart Juniors

B y H e l e n B u l l i t t L o w r y

A GENERATION born into the war of wars, reared in a stirring peace, and educated

• with Paul Whiteman as tlie best-known musician of his time—such a generation takes its recreations with a kick. Thrills it will have. At worst this means hobnailed gin, strong men and weak women, yellow Rolls-Royces and a rotten hang-over in the morning. At best it means speed boats at Miami, aeroplanes from home to office by way of the Sound, and polo.

At the moment, polo is up and riding for a goal of popular favor as no sport has in many a year. The newspapers give it the front page and the rotos can’t get enough, but that isn’t the whole story. Polo is supplying Uie thrill for hungiy juniors, as well as their hard-riding daddies, with just the right jolt in the breeches.

Do you recall how, ten years ago, the young blades in their ’teens, and in their red sports models, used to tear up the countryside at eighty forbidden miles an hour, leaving clouds of dust and a few casualties behind them?

D r a w i n g s b y P a u l B r o w n

Times are changed. Speed roadsters are no longer the “ last word” in sport for young blades. The young lads of utmost fashion now dri\-e unexciting Buicks for transportation. When they want to risk a life or a limb, they ride, not a Stutz or a Rolls-Royce, but a polo pony.

A mighty breed of lifteen-year-old polo players is developing out on Long Island, up in Westchester County, and down near Brj-n Mawt. Unquestionably, though, the storm center of juvenile polo is concentrated in the Aleadow Brook Country Club neighborhood upon Long Island. To be exact, the center is on the estate of that famous horseman and sportsman, Thomas Hitchcock, Senior. It is on the Hitchcocks’ private polo field that the thirty- odd youngsters, who call themseU'es the Meadow Lark Polo Club, hold their practise bouts and accept championship challenges.

a n d a brave sight it is to watch the sunburned young daredciils at it, international polo

players in the making. The famous players of to

morrow and of the daj- after to-morrow are liable to ride straight out of that one particular green field, cradle of the polo race.

The whole situation out there by that sunny green field is picturesque and significant. Picture, first of afi, the setting. -A polo neighborhood— man, woman, and child, and darky stable boy, talking, thinking, reminiscing, and prophesying polo. Or, if for one hour they “ layoff” polo,talking dogs and drag hunts. A little bit of old British sporting countryside, growing joyously and informally on Long Island, far out beyond Brooklyn and the land of city dwellers.

Beagle pups racing excitedly up and down grassy, wire-fenced runways. Lox hounds wandering in aad out of hospitable doorways. The erstwhile insolent motor-car held up while a thousand- dollar hound saunters across the turnpike. Polo ponies grazing in their paddocks. Polo ponies being led over the spring>- grass by shining black stable boys. Polo ponies being exercised by grooms in the dirt lanes {Concluded on page 147)

i i i l 5 . , '



‘M adam e,’ confided Liidor, ‘I have tried to forget, but I can not. That is why I am here.’ ”

E FIRST E M B R A C EA S to r y o f a S a t i s f y i i i g R e w a r d

B y E . P h i l l i p s O p p e x h e i i i

UUi s t r a t e d by M a r s h a l l Fr a nl z

r T M i r , wine shop of Jacques Rousillon, situated I in the principal street of Cagnes, was dark 3 - and cool and cleanly. Madame Rousillon.

who stood behind the counter flanked b>- rows of bottles and sirups, was beautiful. Paul Ludor. who had just strolled across from the railwaj- station, was in no wise disappointed.

‘ 'hfadame,” he exclaimed, pausing before the counter, hat in hand, “you are even more wonderful here, cliez vous. than on the Promenade des Anglais yesterday. I offer you my salutations. Vou sec that I am a manot my word.”

Madame was flattered but confused. That this liandsame stranger, altogether Parisian in type and dress, should have remembered their yesterday's brief flirtation and sought her out thus was distinctly pleasing to her vanity. On the other hand. Jacques Rousillon was not very far away, and Jacques wns a very jealous husband.

“ Monsieur wfll take something?” she asked, a little timidly.

“ A mixed vermuth, if you please, Madame,” he answered. “ 1 gather that there are perhaps distracting circumstances.”

Madame nodded confidentiallj'.

“ TT IS Jacques, my husband, who is around,” she •- whispered. “ One must be careful.”“ Jly dear lady, do I not understand?” Ludor

replied. “ I am not without experience. I know these husbands. Still, they are to be eluded, are they not?”

“ At times,” Madame admitted, serving her visitor with his drink. “ Just now, Jacques is difficult. He is annoyed that I did not stay and serve in the cafd all yesterday while he went to the fete. He detests my going to Nice. It is absitrd,”

“ Madame,” Ludor declared, “ if you were my wife you would never go to Nice.”

She laughed gaily. “ Monsieur, too, is jealous?” He tried to take her hand across the counter, but

with a nervous glance behind her .she eluded him.“ Not jealous but a monopolist,” he confessed.

“ Nice, if you would, ot ilonte Carlo, or Paris— but with me.”

“ .Ah, the sound of those places!” she sighed.“ But you should know them all,” he urged.

“ Vou have a great gift, IMadame. You are beautiful. Here they know nothing. In Monte Carlo or in Paris you would be acclaimed,”

H LK eyes—they were indeed soft and dark and lustrous—flashed with imagined joys. She

leaned toward him and this time she forgot those shuffling footsteps behind.

“ Monsieur flatters,” she murmured.“ Do 1 not prove my words? ” he insisted, “ .Am

I not here? I, but yesterday from Paris where indeed, Madame, I have many friends.”

“ Sweethearts, perhaps,” she sighed.“ Give me but the chance, Madame,” he begged,

“ and I will speak to you of these things.”She looked out over his shoulder into the hot,

dusty little street. A tumble-down victoria was drawn up outside, and upon the driver's seat was a bibulous-looking man with a white hat and a red nose. His vehicle was in the last stage of dilapidation. He himself appeared to be asleep. There was nothing else to look at except the dreary front of the station. Without a doubt she was weary of Cagnes and her life of hard work. There iras no one here who spoke to her like tills. If, indeed, she were as beautiful as this man seemed to think, why could she not also be happy?

“ Monsieur is not serious,” she said. “ He is just a traveler. To-day he is here; to-morrow he will have passed and forgotten.”

“ Madame,” he confided, “ C61este, you permitted me to say, during those few minutes yesterday—I have tried to forget, but I can not. That is why I am here.”

Again the shuffling behind, and Madame was

frightened. “ If my husband comes out,” she warned him, “you must be careful. Sit down, and will you not smoke? You have too much the air of being in earnest. It might seem so to him— alas, not to me.”

i-udor obeyed her wishes. He seated himself at a small table close to the counter.

“ Monsieur returns to Nice this afternoon?” she inquired.

He shook his head.“ .As it happens, no,” he answered. “ I have an

old friend here whom I desire to visit. Madame de Soyau of the Villa Sabatin. You know where it is? ”

She nodded.“ It is two miles away. Up in the hills toward

Saint Paul,” she told him, “ It is to sec his friend, then, that Monsieur has'come.”

“ Indeed, no,” he replied emphatically. “ It is a chance that my friend lives here. Fate, perhaps. Who knows? Nevertheless, believe this; even though I liad not been on my way to the Villa Sabatin, to-day would have found me here. If to-night could only find me at your feel?”

'"T^HK shuffling footsteps behind had ceased, but -k Madame was scarcely aware of the fact. She

was like a beautiful animal fascinated by her trainer. The pallid cheeks, the cynical smile, the cold eyes, the perfectly tailored exterior of this man mth his honeyed speech was to her the last word in llic things which women might desire. He was without doubt a type. She was his for Uie lifting of a finger—but there was Jacques.

“ You are trying to turn my head, Monsieur,” she falteretl. “ .And to-morrow you will have gone asvay.”

“ Not I,” he assured lier. “ I shall stay with my friend at least a week. I have luggage at the station. I did not let them know that I was coming on purpose. I wanted these few minutes with you to talk, perhaps to plan.”


Madfimc liad forgotten the caution. She leaned across the counter and her eyes were eloquent. “ If only there were another fCte day!” she murmured.

“ .\nd what of it if there were?” a harsh voice by her side demanded.

She turned around, terrified. Her husband had, unnoticed, pushed open the door at her back, and was standing by her side. Already he was fingering the fastenings of the flap under tlie counter.

“Jacques!” she e.xclaimed. “ But how quietly you came in!”

“ Qiiielly!” he scoffed. “ But that depends. new customer! I do not seem to recognize your face, Monsieur.”

“ fi'liy should you?” Ludor answered carelessly. "I ha\-e never been inside your cafe before. I called in for a mixed vermuth and to ask the way to the \'illa Sabatin.”

J ACQUES ROUSILI.ON stooped down and emerged on the other side of the counter. It was

obvious now that this visiting Lothario was a small man. He did not even reach to the shoulders of the giant who stood before him,

“ There are customers who are welcome here,” Jacques Roiisillon declared, “ and there are customers who are not. That is where you come in, my fine fellow. You understand?”

“ Not in the least,” Ludor replied. “ I understand that you are very rude. VTiat harm do I do in your caf6? Sit down and drink a glass of wine with me.”

“ A glass of wine?” Jacques Rousillon repeated. “ Monsieur offers a glass of wine? Make it brandy and I will drink with him.”

“ Vliatevcr you will,” the visitor agreed.Madame filled two glasses, received the money,

and handed back tbe change. Her fingers touched Ludor’s for a moment. Then she drew her hand quickl)- away. Her husband was watching.

"Crood health!” Ludor said, raising his glass.“To hell with you!” was the scowling response.

“There’s your brandy. Clear out!”

f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4

He dashed the contents of his glass into Ludor’s face. The latter sprang to his feet. --Vs quick as lightning his fists shot out and the innkeeper staggered backwards. He recovered himself in a moment, however. With a roar of anger he swung round, took hold of his assailant by the collar and the legs and, lifting him off his feet, carried him to the door. A moment later I.udor found himself lying in the dusty high road. Jacques Rousillon

71

stood in the doorway glaring at him. Behind tlie counter Madame sobbed. She knew her husband and his ways. In a few minutes it would probably be her turn,

“ TS IT my fancy, Paul," Madame asked, “ or are -L you perhaps not quite so careful about your

appearance as in the old days? Your clothes are as well cut as usual, but {Conlintied on page 106)

‘Ludor said Cardinge, ' I desire to forget that we haw ever been aeqnainlcd. Lei that fin ish it between zis.’



W O R T H MAKES T H E IM P O R T A N T E V E N IN G W R A P OF COSTLY FUR. E X Q U IS IT E IN DESIGN

The important fu r wrap that really considers itself seriottsly is always handled by the great houses in a simple, meticulously cut manner. The m ink coat shown above has the exaggerated shawl collar that is so invariably becoming.

W hile f o x is cut to fo rm a huge shawl collar that follow s a surplice line down the front o f this cape o f white crinine. The cape is fla t in back, and ever so slightly circular in front, so that it is extraordinarily graceful and fa ltering .


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4

L U X U R I O U S S T R A N G E N E W F U R S M A K E T H E S M A R T W I N T E R S I L H O U E T T E

Not Content With Sumptuous Arrangements o f Sable, Chmchtlla, Enmne,

Mink, and Countless Variations, Shrewd Fabricating

Furriers H ave Created Strange New Furs

B y VAN C a m p e n S t e w a r t

73

2 rue de la Paix, Paris.\ PP \RENTLY tie ittle gods who sit up aloft, finding time heavy

/ \ on their hands now that the world is busily engaged in its own d V undoing, have amused themselves during a dull moment by creating strange new—and happOy inexpensive fur-beating amimls. At least the furriers announce several new furs this season— the original wearers supposedly hailing from far-off Patagonia or some country vaguely located dans le nord. At a rough guess I should have held poor dear Fido or Ginettc the cat responsible for these skins, but the furners have giventliem other names. . _ , .

There is renard d'eau, or water-fox—a soft fluffy fur in soft ^ay orbeige, curiously marked with a darker shade of the same color. lh « is very pretty in ight, creamy beige, trimming a cloak of light beigewool fabric. . , . . • i

Each house has a different name for the thin light fur which is surely field-mouse. Then there is “ chatigre,” a curiously spotted g ry fur, and several other spotted furs, some of which appear almost Lo have been painted with a brush.

N e w A n i m a l s “ C r e a t e d ”

Even the furriers themselves have had a finger in the fur pie, as it were, and have “ burbaiiked” several new furs into existence. MonsieurBSchoff of the niaison Thfibaut showed me a soft gray fuhchilla nor gray squirrel, but a little like both and with all the wftness of chinchilla, which is the result of the burbanking system, and tins new gray fur is used for collars, cuffs, and trimmings on cloaks of broadtail, aswell as for entire garments. , , .

Much, broadtail will be used this season— the_ models shown so far being ratiier straight and slender or only very slightly flaring from the shoulders. Ermine, chinchilla, skunk-skunk is again m fashion-and other long-liaired furs will be used as tnmming. Thdbaut makes a jacket of cliipmunk and trims it with a band of broadtail. Th^baut shows iflso shaded furs—a cape-cloak of gray chCvre, for instance, light gray at the shoulders and almost black on the lower edge, making a very smart wrap.

Cloaks of vison or mink, simple in shape but with the pelts curiously posed, are shown by all the Paris houses. Cloaks of loutre, gray squirrel, ermine—an enormous quantity ot ermine is being used for eLning wraps-and taupe will be smart for winter. DrdcoU, who makes a smart jacket of chipmunk, shows a cloak of taupe with very narrow pelts posed in crosswise stripes-one sLnpe appcarmg light gray and thealternating stripe extremely dark. . • .

Dtficoll's fur garments follow the conservative siUiouette which the ntaison is exploiting for winter. Evening capes as well c oaks, will be made of fur. For day much shaved lamb and broadtail will be used, with short jackets of field-mouse and chipmunk. Dyed furs will beemployed also, more or less, by this house. . 1 * 1

Drecoll continues to use monkey, which, they tell me, has entered the realm of classic furs. Worth makes pkid cloaks of gazelle—narrow strips of darker dyed fur forming the crossbars. Premet makes a pretty wrap of ermine, employing the black-tipped tails in a decorative fashion.

Many smart evening cloaks are made only partially of fur of ermmc often, combined with wliite satin or white or colored velvet. Sable, now veritably hors de prU, is used for collars on evening cloaks of bnght^ft vclvets-rcd, amber, or green. All the thick soft furs arc used as collars on evening or clay cloaks, although the use of the fabnc scarf for day wearwill continue through the early season, , , , •

Molyneux also will show shaded furs tbis season—apretty model being developed in gray fur sliaded to black. Fur of three shades may be used in the same garment—a sports coat ncing topped with beige astrakhan, banded with a darker shade of astrakhan and edged witli fur dyed a still darker color.

L i l a c a n d R o s e E r m i n e

A /fOLYNEUX dyes fox and ermine pervenclie blue, lilac, rose, and N i other colors to matdi his new costumes, and also uses rabbit, dyed a bright orange. Cloaks and trimmings of beautifully spoU^ leopard skin will be shown by Molyneux in his winter collation, with mokskm dyed black, and much red fox trimming. Some circular capes mil be shown by this house, but cloaks, rather straight m line, will predominate Cloaks of some short fur will show small collars of similar fur the cu and band on the lower edge being of fox, bear, or some other long fur.

G E R M A I N E

A new length, and a very smart length, fa r the straight- line coat is not quite a long coal, nor a three-quarter coat —ju s t about seven-eighths. Above is 0 seven-eighths coat o f dark blue ottoman silk worn over a blue ottoman silk frock . It is trimmed with bands o f gray squirrel.



PARIS FURRIERS USE EVJERY KNOWN AND

UNKNOWN PELT

R E D F E R K :

T H E R A U T

O f plucked muskrat, lined untk red kid, wUk collar, cuffs, and belt o f fur-edged kid.

Futuristic embroidery is in rectangular patches o f red, purple, black, and o f brown.

D yed gaedle, ivith a narrow collar o f fitch, is ornamented with beige and gold motifs.

V ery narrow strips o f moleskin, arranged horizontally, are sewn together in this long coat with Us scarf collar. The wide cuffs and band around the bottom are o f opossum, dyed taupe color.

and much bear and wolf will figure in the collection—great bauds of shaggy fur adorning winter cloaks of fur or fabric.

-Vxdott}' will collar and trim many coats of broadtail or other short furs witii white fox dyed a light pinkish beige. Fox in all colors will be used enormously—black fox trimming cloaks of moleskin. The silhouette in furs will be slender chez Aviotty, with perhaps the

.slightest possible flare from the hips. Nothing, however, which resembles a godet will be seen at this house.

Poulain ot ponyskin will be used for coats and trimmings this winter —this fur also lending itself well to shaded effects. Putois is again smart, and red fox, red kolinsky—and all the reddish furs will be in fashion, particularly as trimming for black garments.

“ Summer” ermine, weasel, light gray tightly-curled astrakhan, muskrat—Thebaut uses this fur for cloaks—and baby leopard arc some of the furs in vogue at present, with some “ freak” dyed pells here and there to lend color to the furry scene. But we are all watching out, for a perfectly new animal may pop over the horizon at any moment.

A l l A m e r i c a i n P . a r i s

' I 'HE streets of Paris look almost as if everybody in America who knew how to roll a hoop, jump a rope, or play hop-scotch had

come to France for the Olympic games. Brawny youth fills the trams' and taxis, the restaurants and the sightseeing cars, and “ .American” is spoken everywhere. The two remaining horse cabt,—fiacres of the old r6gime with drivers ot the old cooker type, and horses of the bony, hungry-Iooking sort which were once such a feature of the Paris streets—are shockingly overworked.

Not only are all the athletes here in force, but sailor-boys from tlie United States Navy, on leave, with their dark blue costumes and white piU-box hats, walk the streets in startling proximity to a gay hat-box or two, a pair of dark eyes and twin, coquettish heels. The debonair Prince de Galles has arrived in Paris—this time, as it were, leading his little brother by the hand. The usual crowd ot summer tourists is here, more are coming, and there is an awful rumor that Montmartre has gone bone-dry!

T h e B l u e T r a i n

M li.AXWHlLE Mademoiselle Mistiiiguelt has returned and the Blue Train rambles off to Deauville every afternoon crowded to

the limit—all the other trains literally turning green with envy. And by the Blue Train and all the trains, people are fleeing Paris—going to Deauville, Le Touquot, Dieppe, Dinard, Pourviile and all the other Channel resorts, to Vichy and Mont Dore, Evian and Aix-ies-Bains; and Just now many people seem to be going to Aix.

-At Deauville new and elaborately modem bathing-houses have been constructed along a new boardwalk, more than a mile in length, so that one may bathe now with every comfort known to science, including water. The beach cloaks are more astounding in design than last


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4IS

{Left, below) Double rows o f scallops arc the unusual trhnniing nj this coat o f mole.

R E D F B R N

.l;s erm ine wrap is very sim ple and effective with its deep points at each side.

The flaring hem-line is used by m any of the houses fo r wraps like this oue o f sable.

Rows o f little rufllcs o f fu r fash ion the collar, cuffs, and hemline o f an ermine coal.

year and the bathing costumes underneath ate inorc “ sk.clchy’ than ever—w hicli is to say that they arc practically non-existent.

It was at Deauville that 1 encountered tlie overgrown scarf ^ almost vast proportions, trimmed all about with fringe. This scart was doubled and wrapped about the shoulders, one fringed end tosseb over the shoulder, the other twisted once about the arm, forming me only sleeve and falling to several inches below the skirt-edge. Much more important than the short white frock was this scarf of violet crSpe dripping witli violet fringe and worn with a violet hat and shoes olwhite kid. . , , , a

At the Casino women wore slender slips of embroidered stutts or brocade, widened ingeniously lo step width—the very severe lines of the frock being in accord wilh the bobbed and shingled hair.

S i l k W i g s

An d now th a t th e fa sh ion o f shingled hair has transformed almostevery woman into a sort of hairless wonder, women are aU at once

beginninglo take an interest in hair. With certain frocks transfornm- tions are worn—chignon and all—concealing the shorn locks. of silk or gold and silver were worn in Paris at a recent dmner-dance, and similar ivigs have appeared elsewhere of late at public entertainments. , . ,. 1 , .

The silk transformation is formed of strands of exceedingly lustrous artificial silk which are rolled into smooth puffs on the side or sleekly braided at the nuquc, and are often tivincd with flowers. From three hundred to six hundred francs arc demanded for these mgs, which are rather eccentric, but often very effective with certain frocks and favored somewhat by theater folk; and nothing contributes so much to the success of a fancy-dress costume as one of these silken wigs.

Since almost all the beautiful hair of the world has fallen before the scissors of the coiffeur, can not one imagine the wealth of tresses of gold and cMtain and'black and even silver which have been carefully collected by the bourreaux and hoarded away for future use? When shall we be forced to buy it all back again at fabulous prices? the will of the coiffeur in prices is the wind’s will, and the hair in question is long, long hair, almost—we will find— hors de prix.

T h e S l e e p y D o r m o u s e

Th e French Derby was run at Chantilly on a day so cold that many women came wrapped in furs—enveloping manteaux of

very light gray squirrel, the light gray striped fur which is really dormouse but whicli is called by many strange names, vividly spotted leopard skin, kolinsky, mole, mink, and loutre. These cloaks wem invariably simple in shape, sleeved, the wide straight back shirred slightly and attached to the draped collar.

Madame Ephrussi wore a brown velvet cloak lavishly trimmed wift leopard skin. The Baronne Edouard de Rothschild was wrapp^ m a vast cloak made of tiny gray dormouse pelts, each separated from the other by a narrow white stripe. The light gray fur looked weU

The front o f this kolinsky wrap flares rather slightly, but visibly, while the back rem ains flat and straight. Straight bands o f kolinsky dcflnc the front, hem-line, and cuffs.



T'ifo models from J E A y N F.I. I .V T- 1 .V

{Exlrcm e left) A tailored coat is made o f light browiz pony and lined vjith brown velours, striped with gold.

O f white ermine, cut circularly and rather short, is an evening wrap, handed and collared with kolinsky.

{Right) Three shades o f caracul, tan, brown, and black are used in scalloped tiers on this long coat.

M O L Y N E U X

D R p C O l - I .

The gold and Mack effect o f chipm unk is heightened by a scarab buckle o f black and gold enamel.

FUR WRAPS

with !ier deep purple Reboux hat. Jean Nashwore a Paquin cloak ot black cloth—the fiufiy beige fur collar divided in the back to avoid the uncomfortable interference of collar and hat-brim—a very ii^enious idea.

■At Autcuil the new tribunes are superb—great cream-white structures with spirited staircases and vast springing arches silhouetted against the blue sk>-. The galleries and terraces are hung with flowers, blue, red, and yellow. The bases of the tribunes are banked with fiowers—newly planted but with the air of having grown there always. The- new paddock in the grove forms a perfect place to view the favorites, while the brilliant costumes of the jockeys, the mounted gardes repnUicaines with their glittering plumed casques; the gay costumes of tlie women, and above all the presence of society— for the Grande Semaine was more brilliant socially than it has been for years—all contributed to rendering the last great race week of the season the gayest of any since the great cutustrophc. And who could resist betting on Master Bob or Pot au Peu—who, by the way, lost the race, as favorites sometimes do!

The pesage basked in perfect sunshine. The new chairs were free to all—no more tying them together with a handkerchief or linking them with the buckled strap of field-glasses. Under tlie new ruling, enforced by the gendarmes, any empty chair became public property. Tant mieux.

.\ B r i l l i a n t C r o w d

DGWX the great staircase from tlie tribunes poured a veritable stream of society folk and

distinguished visitors, in Paris for the Grande Semaine. There was the former Duchess of Marlborough, now Madame Jacques Balsan, in a steel gray alpaca tailored frock with collar and cuffs of prim white muslin. The present Duchess of Marlborough, nee Deacon, wore a frock of printed crdpe in shades of rose, deep red, gray, and black, with a black velvet hat trimmed with black crosse plumes.

The Duchesse D6cazes wore one day a smart plaid frock in tones of blue, dark green and bright green— the plaid being printed in diamonds, according to the present fashion. Her bright green crdpc scarf was finished on each end with a deep double fold of bright blue crcpc and her small dark straw hat bore a vivid blue bird’s head, like a cocarde, posed in front.

There was Lady Derby in light brown crdpe do Chine trimmed with plaited crepe; Lady Victoria Bullock in a green, black, red, and yellow printed cr^pe frock from Premet; the Duchesse de Brissac in a fringed brown coat and small light brown and gold hat; the Marquise de Sommi-Piccenardi in a square-crowned black moire hat and a black alpaca frock, straight in the back and rippling out in front in organdie edged ruffles; and the Comtesse de Jumilhac in mousseline printed with rose, green, and black—a dusterofpinkrosesonthecrownofhersmallblackhat.

G a y C o s t u m e s

Th e beautiful Marquise dc Triquerville, with a pale mauve frock, wore a broad hat of violet crin

from winch fell a scarf of violet tulle whicli was wrcatlicd about her shoulders. Another day she wore a frock of pervenche blue crepe with a similar hat and scarf of mauve tulle. The Baronne de Neuflizc wore a broad green hat trimmed with roses with a light brown crepe frock'and a bright green and red cr6pe scarf.

The Marquise de Chabannes wore an odd little frock of shaded mauve crfipe witli a small toque of silver lace; Princesse Murat was clad in blue and black printed crepe; the Comtesse de Vieil-Castel’s dark cr6pc frock was worn witli a broad rose-colored hat trimmed with pink flowers; the Comtesse de Montesquiou-Fczcnsac was frocked in light mauve crepe with a violet hat; Princesse Pierre d’.Arenberg and Mrs. W. K. Vanderbilt were dressed in black; the blonde little Comtesse de Montcabrier was all in beige; and all society was there in frocks ot black, light beige, mauve, red, or gay printed stuffs.


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 477

{Left) A n important coal o f moleskin is made with a hipdengtk cape and a long, wide sca rf attached.

Long cape-like sleeves end in bands e f fiy in g squirrel, to match the collar on this mole-skin coat.

{Extrem e right) This season brings long wraps o f gazelle, form erly more often used in the ja u n ty jacket.

Two models from L . A X T O N

elL . l F J E R R E

R E D F E R N

At the Grand Prix the new President of France made the usual spectacular entree, appearing in the President’s tribune witli the Marchioness of Crewe and all the foreign Ambassadors and their wives, a Greek princess or two, and the Ras TaSari, that silent, grave, observing Ethiopian prince, dark and slender and picturesque in his white robes, who has come out of darkest Africa to take a look at European civilization and to whom the European governments are apparently delighting to do honor. I was sorry that this descendant of the Queen of Sheba did not wear his jeweled coronet.

At Longchamps, too, the scene was more brilliant than for many seasons, in spite of the great crowd. The Duchessc de VendSme in a mauve frock and violet hat, wearing many pearls, was present for the first time in years. The Duchess of Marlborough wore a Cheruit frock of lightest gray mousseline, trimmed with bands of a mossy embroidery of silver and gray silk thread, with a light gray felt hat. The Duchesse Dficazcs was clad in palest mauve crSpe with a square-crowned hat of a deeper shade of mauve.

F e i n t e d F r o c k s

La d y DAVIS was simply frocked in striped silk -r —white, barred with beige and brown. The

stripes were posed lengtliwise, crosswise stripes forming the trimming. Mademoiselle van Heukelom, a dfibutante of tlie season, just back from London where she was presented at the English Court, was a luminous figure in a sleeveless frock of mousseline printed with all the shades of rose, a transparent hat of rose ctin throwing a rosy glow over her pretty face.

The Princesse de Faucigny-Lucinge always a striking figure at the races, is now in mourning and was rot present. The Comtesse de la Rochefoucauld wore a light gray crcpc frock with a curious “ fishtail” panel in the back, and a broad gray hat with a brim on the sides and front only. The Princesse

Duleep Singh, whose horse had won one of the big races of the week, wore a delightful smile.

After the races society drifted over to the Polo Club at Bagatelle, where tea was served under the trees. The Marquise de Polignac in a simple frock of red, yellow, and black printed crepe and a small yellow straw hat bound with black ribbon was there with the Marquis de Polignac. Madame Jacques Balsan in a blue and white crCpe frock and broad black hat trimmed with vivid blue crosse plumes was in another group, and the Comtesse de Polignac, the Batonne Gourgaud—ail the racing crowd, in fact, took tea at the Polo Club.

T u n i c s a n d F r i n g e d F r o c k s

Ma n y went from the races to the Chhteau de Madrid or the other Bois restaurants. At

Madrid I noticed many fringed frocks and also many tunics, one of which was of white satin, straight with a very slight flare at the lower edge, over a narrow black satin skirt. The tunic front was embroidered with a tall, budding tree, done inblacksilk—very odd.

At the races generally tlie smartest frocks showed some version of the tunic—our old friend the tunic, polished, so to speak, until it shone with quite new glories. There was a tube-like tunic of black velvet with a rainbow width of mousseline falling out of the slit in the back, over an underskirt formed of three folds of mauve mousseline—each fold a different shade.

There was a straight, narrow white satin tunic with a band of white silk embroidery on the lower edge and two short crosswise panels of embroidery inset below each hip—tbe tunic edged with white silk fringe over a black satin underskirt. A Georgette model, worn by Madame Georgette herself, was of cream-colored point de venise—a straight slashed lace tunic over a lace underskirt.

There were tunics of crepe combined with metal stuffs, a tunic of white satin buttoned down the middle of the front and (Concluded on page 126)

G R U N W A L D T

Gray moleskin is given color and vivacity by having bands o f jade green duvetyn, embroidered in gray.



T H E N E W E S T FUR W R A PS A R E C A R E F U L

STUDIES IN L IN E

L en ief has made a wrap fo r evening dislinguishable from a daytime wrap by giving a cape o f summer ermine a yoke o f embroidered metal.

[Left] DrCcoIl gives a mote wrap, bordered with gray fly in g squirrel, the appearance o f both a wrap and a frock, by an ingenious satin lining.

{Right) W hen " small fu rs ’ are worn this season, they are mo.sl carefully chosen and most costly. Two silver foxes, a'ossed in hack, are smart


J o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 479

Models on both pages from 11. J A E C K E L A N D S O N S

(.-Um-e) DrccoU makes a cape o f kolinsky flat in back and circular in front. The collar and band around the hem o f the cape are o f chinchilla.

(Left) Four Russian sable skins crossed, one upon the other, are another type of the "sm all fu r s " considered smart with simple costumes.

(Right) For daytime wear, the straight broad-tail coat, immaculately cut and wilh a collar o f kolinsky, is absolutely correct this season.



Every one abandoned him self to the intoxication o f this incognito, which permitted every kind o f intrigue.

l A T D E N I X . M E M O R YR e l a t i v e s C a n B e I g n o r e d . B u t A n c e s t o r s -

B y F. B r i t t e n A u s t i n

I l l u s l r a l e d b y M a u r i c e L . B o w e r

I T WAS February when we arrived in Venice, a season when the guides around San Marco spring like famished wolves upon the stray

tourist, and the fascinating city of the waters was yet more fascinating in the flattery that we and the Venetians had it to ourselves. Wc had been there just long enough to remember correctly the names of half a dozen out of the two hundred Gothic and Renaissance palaces which line both sides of the Grand Canal, that magic thoroughfare of ever mobile water upon which we were never tired of gazing from the balcony of our fifteenth-century palazzo, when we received a letter from Antony.

Could we put him up for a day or two? It was a bit out of his way, but he’d like to look in on us. He added, by way of explanation, that he “ had to go to Bologna to buy hemp.”

I didn’t know tliat they made hemp in Bologna, but it shows you the kind of man Antony is. .A man who could think of hemp in connection with Bologna, that city of medieval arcades and robber- baron leaning towers is—well, I suppose one must allow him imagination, of a sort.

T PONDERED his letter. “ Of course, he’ll simply A wreck the romance of everything!” I growled, resentfully. “ What on earth does he want to come barging in here for? He’ll grumble at the exasperating slowness of a gondola and jeer at the lack of paint on the palaces. All he’ll see in Venice will be a lot of tumbledown old buildings intersected by dirty, smelly little canals he'll wonder that they don’t fill up. Antony’s a jolly decent chap, but even the most optimistic revivalist would have to admit that he’s got no sort of soul'” I glanced at my wife. Unmoved by this burst of eloquence, she was getting on with her dinner with a serene placidity that was easy to interpret. This shirking of a patently joint problem could not be allowed.

“ Well, what are wc going to do about i t ? ” I demanded, with some asperity.

She looked up.“ He’s yoiiT friend—” she said, delicately and

adequately.It could not be gainsaid. Antony was my friend.

In old days. . . . In brief, for the sake of those old days, I perjured my immortal soul. I telegraphed him tlie one word; “ Delighted.”

He w a s to arrive by the Simplon Express on the following Sunday. It gets in at 7 ;4o p. M. and

I went to meet him at the station. It was already completely night as I stood on the little steamer, which is the Venetian omnibus, and was borne, swiftly and silently, tlirough the nocturnal mystery of the Grand Canal. More than ever, Venice is romantic at such an hour. Its palaces glimmer above the fiood in a perfection that the day denies. Only here and there, at the sheerly abrupt ends of the narrow alleys that lead into impenetrable blackness, is there a lamp, illuminating with a faint and limited splash of radiance some quaint Gothic corner of carved stone, and throwing on the tenebrous mobile swell of the water a long and broken sinuosity of golden light against which silhouette themselves the clustered fali, the great mooring stakes tapering to their bases, that lean perilously awry in their old age.

Normally, after nightfall, the little steamer slides along this liquid thoroughfare of derelict grandeur in an eerie silence that is romantic enough. But to-night was the Sunday before Lent, and every now and then a little burst of chorused song, the thrum of a guitar, issuing from one of those dark clefts between the palaces, startled one with a sudden resurrection of spectral gaiety. It was as if the ghosts of old days were abroad. And into this unreal evocation of romance Antony was coming—

confound himl—with his blatant modernity, his crassly piosaic lack of understanding. I felt myself guilty of a contributory act of vandalism as I went to meet him.

He arrived. His honest round face was bisected by a broad grin as he spotted me waiting in the little crowd by the ticket-barrier, and his hand-clasp was that vehement finger-crushing crunch that is supposed to betoken an overwhelming cordiality of affection.

“ How are wc, old bean? ” he greeted me, sublimely unconscious that he struck from the very outset that jarring note I had foreboded. “ Pretty chirpy?”

1 .AM afraid I was rather short witli him, though he was far too thick-skinned to perceive it. Any other guest, more attuned to the spirit of the

place, I should have put in one of the gondolas which nose themselves together, like long black fishes at feed, by the broad water-steps of the railway station and Uic sudden transition to which, a step or two only from the train, makes arrival at Venice at whatever hour of the day or night, the most romantic arrival in the world. But a gondola would have been wasted on Antony.

“ Queer sort of place this!” he remarked as the little steamer bore us swiftly back along the Grand Canal. “ Pretty whiffy, too!” The tide was low, and the side-canals are then apt to be a trifle malodorous, I must admit. “ Damned unhealthy, I should think, ail this stagnant water. Pity they don’t light it up a bit more, isn’t it? Gives one the creepy creeps. Ugh! Are they all dead, the people in those houses? I had no idea Venice was like this—never been here before, you know.”

It was on the tip of my tongue to demand why, in heaven’s name, he had come now, but, with an


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 81

AU the w ay hack he sal siuinied and passive, as though only vaguely conscious of M s environment.

effort of self-conlro!, I refrained. The remarks I have quoted arc a pretty fair summarj- of the cheerfully maintivinod running fire of comment to which I listened until my soul ached. It was a relief when we got off at the Accademia steamer station and wended our way through the narrow gloomy calli to the land entrance of our palasso.

I pass over his introduction to our apartment and the fatuous boisterousncss of his greeting to my wife. She, of course, was charmingly gracious to him, but there was something in her smile to me which seemed, in lieu of sympathy, to reiterate “ he is your friend, you know,” and maliciously leave me with the entire responsibility of his presence.

What were we going to do with him? It was tlie last Sunday of the Carnival—nowadays, only when Lent is closely imminent ilocs Venice remember that

ancient e.tcuse for rcieliy—and I was anxipus to go out and sec what was to be seen. My wife pretexted n headache. “ You two men go together,’ ’ she said. And so we went.

I have said, that night the ghosts of old days seemed to be abroad. Until the Republic

fell at the end of the eighteenth century, the \'onc- lian Carnival lasted for six months and all of plcasuve-loving Europe flocked lo it, as now to tlie more sedate gaiety of Monte Carlo. Every one went masked. -Along the narrow tortuousfuff/.asthe \ e- netian streets are called, noisy throngs of roisterers, travestied in ever>- variety of grotesque or fanciful disguise, danced around and with the normally grave patrician slirouded in his long straight cloak, and himself now anonj-mous in the mask close under his three-cornered hat. llis dignity was temporarily

abrogated. There were no longer social distinctions, no longer even names. Every one, noble or plebeian, was merely Sior Maschira. And every one abandoned himself to the intoxication of this incognito which permitted every kind of license and intrigue, Tlie vcrj' Senatois of the Grand Council could not wait till they were outside the council chamber before <lragging on their dominoes. And the noble Venetian ladies, each with her cicisbco— that inseparable cavalier who rendered her all those petty intimate services which it was the worst of bad form for a husbanil lo render to his own wife— went masked also, a little white or black satin \ isor over their laughing eyes, their identity yet more closely hidden by the long head-veil that reached to the puffed out pannier skirls. Naughty A enctian ladies! They danced out ot existence forever with the Carnival itself, as the (Conliuii<d on page tzS)



BtiK i< Oi r«8i

This V ionnet gown o f gold tissue is worn by M adam e de Gaeiiza. M adam e de Gaenza is from the Argentine, but she spends m any months o f each year in Paris, where she has made f o r her

se lf a position o f great social distinction.


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 Z 483

The house o f Bianchhii-Ferier is characterized chiefly by the remarkable play o f the patterns o f its designs. Surfaces o f textiles not usually printed are made vivid by sparkling designs, all drawn with a certain flu id ease and charm.

A msT H E F A B i R I C ; T H E N T H E G O W NBaro/i de Meyer Visits the Houses o f Rodier

and Bianfiini-F'erier and Learns 1 heir f . . .

J^istoutes (Vid 7 rcuuhons

18 rue Vaneau, Pdris,

F r a n c e is a truly wonderful countr)-. Here, in spite of wars and world-wide unrest, we find tradition and time-honored customs up

held in almost feudal style b)- some of the great commercial houses. Ruthless and quick-production methods, which modern spirits try to introduce, are evidently not essential to prosperity and success.

Of late I have become better acquainted wilh establishments such as Rodier or Bianchini-Fcricr, for instance (commercial houses ranking among the most important in France), and have gaiiied an insight into conditions in such institutions, institutions without wliich Paris would hardly be the fashion center it is, tor, indeed, where would the “ mode” be without Bianchini or Rodier and their marvelous fabrics?

Ever since I have returned lo Paris I have intended telling the readers of Harper's Bazar something about the atmosphere which traditions create, traditions which have always existed in French houses, even if they are to die out in the future.

T i c i i H o u s e o f R o d i e r

W lll'lN I called on Mr. Rodier and on Mr. Bianchini for the purpose of gathering pre

cise information, I was met by the gracious and delightful courtesy which characterizes these establishments. On asking Mr. Rodier about the origin of his house, he protested violently:

•'Please, never say my house! It is o»r house. I am only one of a family. It consists of my brother, Louis, and myself, both of us sons of the founder of the firm, two nephews, Mr. H. Favier and J. Rodier, and now Mr. J. Bignon, a son-in-law. We all share

in the management of our concern. If I am talking lo you now, it is because you happened to ask for me, but I shall call in ray nephews, so as to, all three united, give you the desired information!”

“ To start with,” I said, “ will you tell me some- tliing about the origin of the house and when it was founded?”

“ By my father, in 1853 ” ‘firm was started in the rue de CUry, and later transferred to the Place de la Bourse. However, as far back as 1878 out father moved to our present location in the rue des Moulins. He was, at the time, considered crazy for selecting the vicinity of the Avenue de I'Opera, as in those days it was considered an almost unheard-of commercial location- From the very start our father liad very definite views on the subject of hand-looms, as well as quite individual ideas of textures- In i860, for instance, tlie house of Rodier placed Biircge de Virgiiiic on the market, a material made of albatross feathers—a rare bird found only in Virginia. He also invented a texture made of American buffalo hair.

“ As to the VoUc des Ketigieuse, a texture once very fashionable, it derived its name from a photograph of Mary Anderson, the celebrated beauty, depicted as a nun. At the time my father was bringing out his new voile, somewhere in 1878 or ’80, he had been attracted by the deep piety expressed on this beautiful artist’s face and decided to decorate the labels attached to the fabric wilh colored engravings representing the beautiful nun. Thus, the name of Mary Anderson has forever become identified with this material.”

Mr. Rodier very kindly presented me with some of these labels as souvenirs, saying, “ They have been

preseri ed in our library, which contains documents and hrirlooras such as these. We prize them because of their association with the early days of what now is a \ast organization. IVe French people, as a nation, are fundamentally traditionalists and transmit out hereditary gifts from generation to generation. We Rodiers, in particular, follow tlie fuiida- mental ideas our father and grandfather instituted before us, and one of our guiding purposes is to further and develop the idea of hand-looming instead of making use of meclianical processes actuated by steam and electricity. At the lime we reconstructed our factories, which had, alas, been entirely ruined during the war, we reequipped tlicia with these ancient hand-looms, which have, of course, to be handled by the liuman hand. Mechanical weaving dulls the mind of the weaver, while hand-work keeps him interested and active. The former works rapidly and unceasingly, while the slower kind of work is done deliberately with time for tliought and application.”

T h e V i l i . . 4 G E W e a v e r s

IS ^■OUR home-loom industry worked on the lines of the one so popular in Scotland?” was

my ne.xt question.“ It is, in a sense, only in Scotland they weave noth

ing but tweeds, while at Bohain we handle the most varied materials. Besides, we work our looms with pedals, which leaves the hands free for the weaving.

“ Where and what is Bohain?”“ Bohain is situated in the Aisne Department,

and is an area comprising some thirty-four or thirty-five villages, where our artizans work. Our


84 II A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

»'--W

r

j E

Rodier’s fam ous “ Clidle d ’A iigkor” is shown here. I t is a rectangle o f kasha doth, bordered at each end, and narrowly on the sides.

Colton crepe, woven witk colored designs, is part o f the charm o f ike Rodier collection. H ere in creamy c r t p e w ith g a y co lo r .

I ■' ' \ : ~ 0

factories are exceptionally interesting to visitors, for they offer quite special features. "Weavers, generally, are confined to factories, while our artizans work in their own homes. They are free citizens and own small cottages surrounded by a garden. They only work when inclined to. However, their jobs are always completed on time, even if they have to work all night. We know exactly which men have preserved the traditions connected with each individual texture required, for we employ only speciahsts for the making of the different materials. Such matters ate managed by our conlrematlres, the Messrs. Quersonnier. During the war the men of this family rendered us very valuable services at the risk of their lives. They succeeded in saving for us tlie most precious of our inventions by hiding our looms. The enemy were never able to find them. Once destroyed, these could never have been replaced.

“ .All sample work is carried out at the big factory itself, while, as I’ve said before, the artizans weave at home. They set up their own looms which we naturally provide, as we do all necessary materials. This is conveyed to. them by our foremen in automobiles. These same men call for the finished work after it is completed. Our foremen, or the montenrs, make almost daily rounds of the various villages. They call at the artizans’ cottages, give orders for the execution of new materials, or explain complicated new creations.”

“ What is a monieurt” I asked.“ A monteur is an experienced worker who superintends

the home-made work. Our Bohain artizans are easily the

> X # )*

wP Z -\ • ' «■ * * • » — * ‘ T**

» •

■ r -..

■ ^ ’ 5 ' . - - • ' - S 'J \ .7 '.

■. v . 2 / 1 ' i g f i •%


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 85

sk J l b rfc

Clem - arrangement o f difficiiU horisoiilal stripes is shown by the Douccl rape-coal.The fabric is a M eyer textile, typical o f this season, brown i-clours. with red. beige, and Hack stripes, trimmed with red f o x fu r .

most versatile workmen in France, for thcj- arc as exTicricnced in the weaving of silk as they are in the handling ot cotton or wool. In other weaving centers, such as Lyons, for instance, the workers specialize only in silk.

I I 0 w I d e a s II a i> p e n

“ /^ U R work is a source of cndles-s joy.” Mr. Paul Rodier continued. “ for it obliges us lo make

great imaginative efforts. We produce about five thousand sample pieces during the year and find it at times excessively costly. To give you an instance, almost seventeen thousand francs were spent on the famous Chdlc d’.liigki'r Irctore the first piece was ever woven. Howei'cr. we never hesitate to produce what we liave planned, as we don't allow the question of expense to stand in the way.”

“ Who of your gentlemen,” I asked, “ is the designer?”

"We all of us design, and we all of us, in turn, live at the factories in Bohain for a time.”

■'Do you deliberately search for new ideas for textures?”

“ Xo, hardly ever. In fact, most of our best ideas come to us out of business hours, for we have trained our observing eye lo be receptive. For instance, I distinctly remember a small incident in Deauville in 1922, where 1 saw a woman walking in the rue Gon- taut-Biron, wearing a gown of a speckled fabric. It was detddedly ugly in color. Nevertheless, it was this imsighlly gown which started me thinking on a certain subject—the result was Djcrsirisa.”

“ Is it the material you showed me a while ago?” I asked.

“ The very one, and a very great success. Whenever a new idea strikes us wc put it down in our notebook, for wc each ot us carry one of these on purpose,” this from Jacques Rodier, while he brought out a little leather l>ook filled with designs, almost hieroglyphics. It was interesting to see what Monsieur Jacques had designed, for it was explained to me that from such designs a manufacturer reads a texture as easily as a composer of music reads his notes.

“ liach little squarc,” hc said, "has its significance; also the combination of threads with the intercrossing ot the weft arc very important. Such

matters form the subject of courses in weaving, which we all follow with deepest interest.”

“ Two-thirds ot what we attempt,” said Mr. P. Rodier, “ is the limit of what can be executed on a loom, for it is only possible to build on very exact and fundamental rules. New ideas for le.xtures are oniy useful if based on technical essentials, in the same way as the laws of harmony must be known to a composer. There may be clover designers with e.xcellent ideas, amusing to the eye but totally unpractical and impossible for realization.”

••How fa.scinating it must l>e to create a fabric which has never been woven before." I said.

•■ It cerlaiiUy is,” he replied. " and like newly born babies, it must be given a name, which is not the least of our troubles. Oh. these names! What a study to find the right one. the appellation which conveys the material. We found Durtline and Cloky. Pavecia and. particularly, our favorite Kasha, which comprises the many materials which derive from it— Kashvelta. Roily Kasha. Zihtikasha. and many others. One day. some thirty-five years ago, allindu came to see us. He was shown a new material, which he liked Ho said. ‘ It might do for my (Coii/i'iiMcd on page lyS)


86 II A R P E R ' S B -1 Z A R

“ ‘ W h y can't you always be like this, F ra n c ie? ' B im asked one night, after the last guest had left.’ ’

£ M I - A A C h:

A S to r y o f a S o c i a l E j X p e r i m e n t

B y A n x e P a r r i s h (Mks. cuari . es a . c ore i s r )

I l l u s t r a t e d by J o h n L a C a l i a

-V B r i e f R f i s u .\ i : £ o f P a r t O x e :

F■>RAXCIB G.AYTHORN’S childhood had H been a singularly unhappy one. Her father,

an idle visionary, dreaming to-day of the masterpiece he would paint to-morrow—the tomorrow that never came—and her mother, proud and ambitious, fiercely longing for her husband’s success, hated as intensely as they loved, and l-'rancie and her brother and sister grew up in an atmosphere of continual wrangling and complaint-

11 left Francic a little hard, perhaps a trifle cynical, and with a very real and definite antipathy toward marriage. Xow her father was dead, and sire and her mother, a melancholy, dejected invalid, were living in Switzerland-

Mrs. Bennct, a pompous American lady visiting in the Swiss town, required some one to read aloud to her while her own companion, little Harriet Smiley, was temporarily indisposed, ilr. Hare, the

vicar of the local English church, spoke of Francie, and she was promptly sent for and engaged.

To Mrs. Bennet’s secret annoyance, Francie and her son became firm friends; there came a day when they made the altogether thrilling discovery that he was the Bim Bennet with whom she had played as a child. They were constantly together, and Bim lost no time in failing in love with Francie, but altliough her love for him had become a very real and wonderful thing, she stedfastly refused to marry him. To her, marriage was a trap, something which made a mockery of love. Love should be free, not bound by narrovf conventions. She loved Bim. Shewouldgo wilh him, live with him willingly, gladly, but she would not marry him. She would not bind him or be bound herself by a conventional marriage ceremony, and Bim left her, bitterly hurt,

Francie went blindly out of the room and upstairs, to find that her mother, utterly hopeless, had taken an overdose of sleeping medicine and was dead.

Bim, sent for by the syrajialhctic Miss Smiley, hurried back. His heart filled wilh pity and tenderness, he was willing to do anything, agree to anything, if only he might lake her with him.

jind so they made their plans. She would go wilh him back to America. They would live together for three years. Then, if they found that they still cared for each other, they would be married. If not, and even Francie admitted that this was too silly to talk about, they would part.

P a r t T w o

ITR.ANCIE sat down on an overturned box that L had first held sirredded codfish and later, more poetically, the pansy plants that she had just been setting out in tlie little garden of her house on Peachtree Lane. The streets of the more select part of the small Connecticut town of Belleridge were named with a firm and conscious quaininess, for


example, Peachtree Lane; Gipsy Lane, where stood “ The Hemlocks,” home of that least gipsy-like of ladies, Mrs. Bennet; and Briar-Bush Road, where Mt and Mrs. Lockwood Bennet lived.

Francie and Bim had come to Peachtree Lane m early winter, and now it was spring. They were passionately in love with each other; they had beeii happy; but a hundred times Bim had had to remind himself Francie had had to remind herself, that every one said that the first year was always thehardest. , ,

The days in Paris before they sailed for home were still a cluster ot stars in Francie’s heart. They had entered into heaven there. They had released each other into perfect bliss.

But that, too, was dream-like—the blue mist on the river; the little boats with the tops of their smoke-stacks curled and perforated like bouquets of iron fern-fronds; the barrows heaped with masses of wet violets; everywhere the scent of roasting chestnuts. And Bim with no thought but of Francie, Francie with no thought but of Bim. His hands upon her. light and strong—a broken whisper in the dark-the anguish, the peace, of tlieir love.

Now dreaming was over, and they were wide awake Love was with tliem, and life was beautiful, but they walked, not on stars, but on the earthagain. ,

Things seemed to Francie to have grown conlusea. Cooks, callers, bath-towcls, and the grocer were surely more important than they should have been in the Uvcs of these two who had followed the little heaven-pointing path to the blue meadow. But when she tried to think things out clearly and get them into true proportions, the telephone rang, Bim found moth-holes in his golf-coat, or the green gale of 7 Peachtree Lane clicked as another caller came through it.

Th e r e were things that she should have been doing now, instead of sitting on an oi'erturned

box in the spring sunshine. Mrs. Bennet was coming home to-day. after a winter in Egypt; there was to be a family dinner at “ The Hemlocks, and Francie had promised Mrs. Lockwood Bennet to come over and help decorate the house to welcome the returning traveler. But she sat still, drinking in the color of a border in Mrs, Jackson’s garden next door that she could sec through the separating hedge, grown thin at the bottom; fat-faced purple and brown and yellow pansies, an ethereal cloud of early blue phlox, and, rising from these, tall rose- colored tulips. Mrs. Jackson, wearing an old green stuff dress, galoshes, and a large straw hat pushed on the back of her head, but occasionally sliding forward, when it would come down like a candle snuffer over her severe spectacled face, was ivorkmg furiously among her flowers, while at a little distance her son Bernard could be seen sealed on the grass

f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4

beneath an arched old apple-tree in deep pink bloom, with the bees around it making a sound as loud as a pulled-out organ stop. He read from a small volume, but often paused to meditate, gazing upward at the scented rosy roof, apparently oblivious of possible eyes upon him.

Mrs Jackson straightened herself, pushed back the candlc-smiffer hat, and caught sight of Francie.

“ Good afternoon, Mrs. Jackson.”“ Good afternoon, Mts. Bennet. Been trans

planting? TVTiere did you get those pansy plants? Brookside Nurser>'? Well—I wish you joy of them!”

“ Yours arc lovely.”“ Yes,” said Jlrs. Jackson. It was a fact, and she

admitted it without modest disclaimer. “ You haven’t much, have you?”

“ Three red tulips, and a heavenly cherry-tree. “ Pie-chcrrv—I l:now Ihal tree! Frightfully sour.

Mts. Skinner alwai s said it really didn’t pay to put them up, it took so much sugar. Like some of my tulips? Bernard'”

HIvR son leapt to his feet, drawing a hand across his eyes, as one who brushes star-dust away.

“ Take these around to Mrs. Bennet. Don’t go through the hedge! Don't go tlirough thehedge!” „ ,

“ I’m not near the hedge, i la ir e mta, her son protested plaintively. He Was rather an exquisite young man, and seldom raised his voice, or hurried except when it was necessary for him to keep up with liis brislc and practical parent.

“ Oh, heavenly! The darlings!” cried Francie rapturously, receiving the sheaf of tulips, their stiff gray-green leaves squeaking and rustling with freshness.

“ Perfect!” breatlicd Bernard.“ ^ ■hat did you say?” she murmured absently,

brushing her lips against the cool rose-coloredflowers. „

“ Oh—did I speak out loud? I dulnt mean to. “ Mrs. Bennet back yet?" his moUicr inquired

through the hedge.“ She comes this evening.”“ She has a nice hot day for it, tlien. I'm sopping. “ I meant the rosy flowers against the wood-

smoke blue of your sweater—et—jumper,” Bernard said in a hasty undertone.

“ Your telephone’s ringing,” Mrs. Jackson put in.

IT WAS Mrs. Lockwood Bennet reiiiinding Francie that she was long overdue to help with

the welcoming decorations. Taking her tulips as a peace-ofiering, she hurried out of tiie green gate andtoward “ The Hemlocks.” , , • u

She had not yet returned when Bim and his elder brother Lockwood, rather tired from meeting their mother and Miss Smilev and escorting the ladies,

87

their luggage, and Lily out from the city, slopped at 7 Peachtree Lane.

“ Come in and have a cockuil, old man. We won’t be likely to get one at mother’s.”

The house was dark, and there was no answer to his calls for Francie. He turned on the living-room . lamps under their moonlight-colored shades. The dusty, charming room was empty, but flattened cushions, a book face down among them, and cigaret ashes on the floor, showed that she had been there. Music lay like autumn leaves about the piano.

“ I didn’t know your wife played,” said Lockwood, looking at a Ravel Sonatine open on the music- desk, witli his habitual expression of detecting a slightly unpleasant smell.

“ Lord, yes, all the lime. Where the deuce ts everybody?” Bim strode across the room to the bell, brushing against boughs of apple-blossom in an old copper jar, and making a miniature blizzard of petals fall to the floor.

No one answered his ring.“ Never mind, old man, some other lime,” said

Lockwood, in whose house bells were always answered. “ Or come along home with me; I’ll telephone Olive to have things ready.”

“ No, just wait a minute,” said Bim, thrusting out his ja«v stubbornly. He went out to the kitchen, empty except for a very young kitten looking at him with round eyes from a box behind the stove. Where the devil were the maids? Olive’s maids were always on hand, in their fresh smart caps and aprons, to bring in gin and vermuth and orange juice, and crushed icc dried in little muslin bags. He got out bottles and cocktail shaker. Where were oranges? Nothing in the fruit dish on the sideboard but two apples, an almond, aiul a small shriveled tangerine.

RE.ALLY, Bim, old boy, I tliink 1'<1 better be getting along, thanks just the same—have to

batlie and dress, you know,” Lockwood called.“ Damn—damn— ” said Bim under Ms breatb.

“ Wait a minute!” he shouted, and furiously yanked open the refrigerator door. There might be oranges and there would certainly be ice.

Some butter in disMabille, a saucer of left-over nee pudding, a bone with bits of mutton adhering, and the innocent faces of several eggs looked out at him. In another compartment was a piece of ice about tlie size of a small lemon.

The cocktails were warm and bad, but the brothers gulped them down, and parted with formal politeness. All the Benncts always beliaved as if they had been introduced to each other not longer than an hour before.

Francie saw Bim’s hat and the evening paper m the hall when she came home, and heard the rushing of bath water up-stairs. Wings stirred in her heart, for each meeting {Conlinued on page 112)

“ M iiiglcdfeclings surged through Francie. ‘P m jealous, she said aloud in an incredulous voice. ‘P m jealous!


8? H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

B E R N A R U B E R T H E

T H E L I T T L E TA ILO RED FROCK HAS G R O W N INTO A W H O L E TA ILO R ED COSTUME

.1/ the left, above, is a coat-frock o f black satin from Bernard, slim and straight and perfectly fla t in the back, with groups o f plaits in the front. This is worn over a white cr$pa slip with a hem-stitched neck-line, like that o f a tailored blouse. T h e ie is a black and white scarf, with plaited ends attached to the front. The only bit o f color is a vivid red camellia on ibe shoulder.

Black tw ill is used fo r one o f ike newest and smartest developments o f the tailored frock that is m ore than a frock— really an entire costume. This idea is being developed more and more as the season advances; frocks begin to look more like a frock and coat. Berthe has used a while crtpe slip under this frock , and the collar and cuffs are trimmed with bands o f rabbit.

Models on both pages from H A T T I E C A R N E G I E


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 489

(.1 bove) Green bcngaline coaUdress edged with a band of moleskin. The lines arc identical with those o j a coat.

J direct descendant o f tbe tailored suit. Black and while striped serge wilh vest o f white satin and a scarf.

Another coat-frock. Black velvet with white Georgette cri-pc used as facing and shirred irimming on the edge.

T H A . A I L O R E D F R O C K H A S N E W S U C CThe Direct Descendant o f the Tailored Suit Is the Tailored

Frock That Has the Effect o f a Whole Costume

B y L u c i l e B u c h a n a n

h: ,

WHEN the tailored idea was lirst injected in the mode, it was in ,thc form of the tailored suit. This costume, -with its attendant accessories, had so much

personality that it has left its marks on almost all other types of costumes. In fact, the whole “ la garqonne” influence has had a noticeable effect on both day and evening clothes, an effect so strong that the mode lias not been able to shake it off for several seasons. . ,

Now it is the little tailored frock. Not just the little slip of ii dress with no pretentions at all to being anything but a mere width or two of fabric, with a dash of white at throat and wrist, but a frock as carefully tailored as a suit, with the appearance of being a coat and frock.

This type of frock is made, in every smart fabric, in bengaline, in twill, salin, silk alpaca, and in the newly revived velvet It is a frock that can appear almost any

time during the dav and be smart and a frock unto itself. The trim tailored costume always carries with it a certain immunity. It is so basically correct, so devoid of fussinessand bulk and useless ornament.

The black and white costumes shown at the left are almost dramatic in their force of design; but the black and white is delicately balanced, and there is no crudity in the costumeas a whole. , , n i j

The satin frock at the left has a perfectly flat back, and a forward movement is given it by means of flat plaits in front. Tliis frock has an underslip of heavy white crepe, with a hem-stitched tailored neckline. The black salm and white crepe scarf ends in fringe and plaits The highest point of the costume is a flat red camellia on the lapel. The black felt hat is square-crowned, with no brim inthe back, and a very tiny rolled up bnm in the front.



C H IF F O N IS ALMOST T A IL O R E D

FOR E V E N IN G W E A R D IN N E R FROCKS A N D

E V E N IN G GOWNS A R E U N T R IM M E D

{L eft) So fa r has the mode fo r sim plicity gone, that even chiffon is handled as severely as i f itw creclolh. II is given almost tailored lines, long and straight and thill in this dinner gown o f biscuit color.

Another lovely form al gown, tinusually sim ple, is o f flame-colored chiffon, made with a flat back and an apron in fron t. Every Utile section o f Ihe apron lies fla t and has a simple picoted finish.

The black twill frock shown with the satin frock has a scalloped tunic that is rather unusual in this season of tubes—and uncommonly smart, too. The over-frock effect is achieved by a white plaited crepe slip under the black twill, showing at the deep “ V ” of the bodice and at the cuffs. The sheared white rabbit that is used for coOar and cuffs on this frock is rej>cated on the hat.

The other frocks shown on the page are excellent types of the tailored frock at its slimmest and most carefully cut. The green bengaline frock in the middle of the page is made on exactly the lines of a coat. The softness of its texture and color save it from being unfiatteringly severe.

The black serge frock with white stripes is a clever bit of dove-tailing of fabrics so that all luinecessary bulk is cut away and the frock is slim and sheathlike. The heavy white satin under-blouse and scarf—the exact necessary complement of the frock.

The fact that these tailored frocks are so carefully fitted immediately takes them out of the chemise frock class. They are more sheath-like than the chemise, in fact, nearly all are some variation of the tube. The black velvet frock shown at the right on the preceding page is the chemise drawn in a bit tighter at the waist and hips and sent out beltless to meet the world.

With the tailored frock the hat must be chosen with a very particular care. It must be small and close and sleek, an ingenious bit of fabric—it may be felt or satin or perhaps the newly smart velvet—that suggests line and does nothing more. Nothing that takes itself seriously as a hat.

The hats shown on page eighty-nine are all variations of the cloche, except the


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 91

Modrls on both pages from R A N G E S C I. ! .V E

high-crowned hat at the lower left, which is newer, more difficult to wear, and very smart. This hat is made of black felt and heavy black grosgrain.

At the upper left on the op|»site page is a frock of bisciut-coloretl chiffon, from Renee. Here the fabric is handled almost like cloth, so severely is it cut, and so beautifully are the long slender linc.s of the bodice laid. The front of the bodice has two long rcvers like those of a tailored costume, but, of course, very soft and rollerl back. There arc two long ends that tie in front in a stringy careless bow; these ends are kept straight hanging by very heavy biscuit-colored fringe. On this, as on most of the new chiffon evening frocks, only the skirt is at all elaborate. This is made light and soft looking by layers of chiffon at the hem.

Tbe gown shown on this page is part of a complete ensemble that is unusually successful. It is a gown of classic lines, but verj- rim|>le

intlecd. The fabric is crejie marocain. in lacquer retl, made flat in the back and with a suggestion of long folds ot drapery in the front. The long straight bodice is tiefined at a low waistline by a flat band of brilliants, little laurel leaves made of rhinestones. With this is worn a straight cape made of one of those beautifully supple gold lame tissues that are so lovely this season. It is lined wilh lacquer red, and pours over the shoulders like golden water. There are tinv flat “ tailored” nosegays of red flowers on the cape, and flat plaits around the shoulders.

The tendency toward simpler evening gowns has undoubtedly grown stronger as daytime costumes have become simpler in every tic- tail. The heavily beaded gown, the now almost obsolete brocade gown, have given way to the little rag of chiffon cut and matie with infinite wisdom of line. It is the present insistence upon youth that has given the chiffon gown its new {Concluded on page pj)

Cr?pc marociiin.iii Jhimc color,isluidlike a long stroight shealli over the body, wilh only a thread of drapery in front. The gfrdle is a flatband of brilliants. With this is worn a straight cape of lame tissue.

T H E

E V E N I N G E N S E M B L E

IS AS SIMPLE AS P O S S I B L E



M A D E L E I N Eet

M A D E L E I N E Black velvet is made in a slim sl/aighi lube, ■with an apron applied in front. Tke apron and scarf-collar are banded in skunk.

Bands o f brown velours de laine trace the surplice lines o f this beige rep coat frock , .[pplied patches o f leopard fu r trim it.

{Left) A l Deauville, this sim ple coat o f beige silk twill, with an accompanying beige frock, was worn with an orange baiigkok hat with an orange velvet ribbon.

The black satin coat o f this costume is slilched in black, the white crtpe frock under it in while. The wrap is trimmed with black seal banded with ermine.

B L A N C H E L B B O U V I E R

A FEW OF THE SMARTEST COSTUMES THAT HAVE COME OUT OF PARIS THIS SEASON


J o r S E P T E M B E R 1 0 2 493

B R A N D T

Pearls, a single strand o f them, hold lip the while satin bodice o f this white satin gown, admirably cmbroi-

wilh rhinestones and pearls.

NEW EVENING COSTUMES

PARIS NOW WEARS

M O L Y N E U X

W hite ermine, made into a perfectly straight coal, has an unusually deep band o f white f o x around ihe bottom, and white f o x collar and cuffs.

Black satin and black lace, with the skirl ending in a deep frin ge o f black ostrich plumes, dusted with gold.The line o f Ihe skirl is flattering.

life. The solemnity of gorgeous fabrics, the slightly dowager suggestion of beads are not lo be thought of by the woman with close-cropped hair whose daytime frocks are the last word in the new sophistication ot simplicity. This, then, is the woman for whom the new chillon frocks are designed. She wears them with enthusiasm and very tew jewels. She usually prefers opera pumps of satin to more elaborate evening slippers, although she may wear brocaded sandals, with not many straps—most simple ones, pricked by a tiny jewd on the instep. It is a delightfuliy easy evening toilette, admirable in its lack of pretension.

On the other hand, these little rags of frocks must be worn with understanding of their character. ,\. diamond on the shoulder, a flower, a jewel, not too little or the frock loses value, and never, never too much. It is in the wearing of frocks of this sort that the French woman is most clever. They exactly suit her easy unconsciousness of her costume. The American woman, who must have everything carefully nailed to her in order to feel properly dressed, does not take as kindly to this type of frock, especially for evening, when sne prefers the “ built like a sky-scraper, and built to stay” costume. It is one of the things she must learn, just as she learned to wear the extremely simple and youthful daytime costume.

I' I I



George M . K esslert

MRS. FELIX D. DOUBLEDAYA ll Am erican hostess who has met witk distinguished success in London society, M rs. Doubleday now passes a part o f each year in England. Before her marriage M rs. Doubleday was M iss Rhoda V an B. Tanner, a daughter o f M rs. John J . Tanner o f N ew York.


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 95

“ ' [ ’m quite lovely and w itty,’ said the leading lady. 'W h y don’t you

7itarry m e ? ’ ”

H F A CA

A U N C U I P S

J D

T/ie F a n t a s y o f a F a m o u s A c t o r

B y M i l d r e d C r a m

T most famous man in the world. The first universal popularity. . . .

Billy rolled over and opened his eyes to Uie daily fugue. Publicity tripped upon the heels of publicity. Was there a spot on the face of tiie overrun globe where he wasn’t known, where he could walk a block unmolested and unrecognized? Nowadays, cannibal chieftains sported palm-thatched cinema palaces of their own. Eskimos exchanged whale blubber and reindeer teeth for a coveted glimpse of his face. Queens sat upon gilded chairs in converted ballrooms and slapped tlieir royal thighs at his shadow.

Great heavens!He got out of bed, slipping into a dressing-gown

of dark blue silk. Bed is a terrible place for a spiritual disgust, self-nausea.

“ Is there,” he asked his man-servant, “ a so-called great open space where I am unknown?”

“ Certainly not, sit.”“ Great God!”“ Beg pardon?”“ The comment was ironical.”“ Yes, sir. Batli, sir?”“ By all means. Warm. I hate cold water.”In the tub, Billy contemplated himself. A

strong, compact, graceful little beggar, wasted in

U l u s t r a t r d b y U ' a i t a c e .l/orgm i

puerile undertakings. He should, he reflected, have been a pioneer, a householder. Or, better, an obscure intellectual. Anything but what he had become.

What had he become?The definition required focusing.The press called him variously a comedian, a

tragedian, a prophet, a wit, a philosopher, a pagan, and a poet. Boiled down, strained and served, he was the most famous man in the world.

IMAGINE the world— Lying at case in tepid water scented with lavender salts, Billy imagined

the world; seas, continents, islands, deserts and forests, cities and \-alleys, rivers and mountains. The sun gilding it round and round. And everywhere, himself, Billy, making them laugh. Hottentot and Tartar and Chink, showing their gum« in wide, shameless, primitive hilarity. The world, laughing at itself! _

And here he was, in a tub in New York', sticking his verj- human toes out of a froth of expensive English batli-soap. Asking questions. A habit he had fallen into lately, perhaps because he lyas free of the preoccupation of work. A five million dollar contract had been signed. A month’s vacation, and then the everlasting search for salient

“ humanities,” the unending pursuit of “ gags,” would begin all over again. The prospect terrified him.

In the days when he had been a struggling unknown, an ambitious jester in the third-class vaudeville houses, he had not had the responsibility of art. Work was work.

Now they had labeled him whimsical, wistful, poignant, and tragic. The one-night-stand acrobatic clown confronted the appalling words “ great” and “ subtle.”

And now, it seems, ho stood upon Parnassus in the thin, austere company of tlie immortals. He was capitalized, consolidated, incorporated, copyrighted, limited, protected, insured, and all rights reserved, including the Scandinavian. If he should lose his sense of humor, Wall Street would gasp and go down. And those hordes of bony, lialf-starved, fiea-ridden Chinks, Tartars, and Hottentots would stop laughing.

“ I’m too confounded famous,” Billy thought. " I ’m scared."

A T BREAKFAST, a casual young journalist ■Ti snatched an interview while Billy drank his coffee. The famous locks were damp and brushed smoothly back, but every [Continued on page 140)


96 H A R P E R ’ S ' B A Z A R

This bedroom, in tke house o f M rs. W arden at Palm Beach, has as its nucleus a fine old Spanish bed. The bed is painted a pale gray-blue, with gay peasant designs. The headboard is made to hang on the wall, and the four-post bed pushed against it.

F R O M OLD P A IN T E D BEDS TH ESE L O V E L Y B E D R O O M S G R E W

B y R u b y R o s s G o o d n o w

T~^IIE bed should be the beginning and end of the decoration of the bedroom—nothing should surpass it in importance, but everything must measure up to the standard set by it. First, an interesting

bed must be found, and from that the room will grow. In old days tke master’s bed was handed down from one generation to another, as one of the most important possessions. Here are four bedroom.s, each of which has grown from a painted bed chosen by the mistress of the house for herself. The four rooms are totally dissimilar in treatment. They are all very conventional, very personal, and—paradoxically—very original.

Mrs. Warden’s bedroom, in her house at Palm Beach, is an example of a beautiful room that was planned as a setting for a fine old Spanish bed. Before the room was built, this lovely old bed was found in Spain; and the architecture as well as the decoration of the room was suggested by it. The bed itself is characteristic of early Spanish painted furniture, a combination of the most gorgeous design and color, and the most playful and childlike peasant artistry. The headboard is made to hang on the wall and the four- post bed is pushed up against tbis. The headboard is painted with red velvet curtains embellished with gold, and upheld by two pink cherubs, and its entire surface, a cloudy pale blue, is covered with the most gorgeous pink and red flowers tvith green and gold leaves. The gold is all applied over gesso, and has the effect of bas-relief. The effect of these brilliant reds and pinks and golds on the very pale blue ground is extremely decorative. The four posts of the bed are simply painted with stripings of red and gold, dividing the posts into small areas which are in turn covered with crude blue marbled designs.

Finding a proper bedspread for this bed was so difficult as to be almost impossible. We despaired of finding anything which was old enough and of suitable design. Finally, by one of those miracles an which all decorators

The bedroom o f M rs. Leland Ross, at Parland House, M adison, N ew Jersey, is built around a Louis Seize bed, with M a rie Antoinette’s initial in a “ ck iffre” on the headboard.


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4

m :-i

99

H H HEATERW hich R aises the Question W h ether the Theater R e f l e c t s

the N a t ion or the N ation the Theater

B y P e r c y H a m m o n d

r people of tlie theater, it seems, are dis-I posed to overestimate their influence on the

character and conduct of the human race. In lhat explicable weakness they are encouraged by the drama leagues and the deeper critics, the pulpit sometimes, and frequently the lecture platform. The stage is regarded by these voices from the Burning Bush, now as a great rectifier of life’s bad habits, and then as a mischief, inducing immorality and similar evil practices. lu “ The Fool” and “ Abie’s Irish Rose” they find wholesome lessons; in such things as “ Ladies’ Night” and “ The Demi-Virgin,” a hurtful advocacy of rapishness and impurity.“ Hamlet” and “ Cyrano de Bergerac” are said to incite a love of culture and letters; tlie farces and musical comedies an indifference to the better tliinp.The people of the theater take themselves very seriously.

Have, for instance, in Mr. St John Ervine, a notable man in fiction, essays and playwriting.He is a sane critic, a thoughtful and brilliant novelist, and a keen and honest dramatist, yet in an article in English Life, he permits himself tlie following enthusiasm;“ The tlieater,” says he, “ more than any civilized institution, is a mirror of the nation. Show me a nation’s plays, and I will tell you what a nation is like.”

Mr . ERVINE and similar impetuates ignore tlie fact

that the theater is more limited in its orbit than any other art.For it is almost exclusively confined to circulation among Uie city folk. Moreover, it is not merely urban, it is metropolitan, a thing of the capitals—of New York, Cliicago, London, Paris,Berhn, Manchester, Los Angeles, and Vienna. Wliat can Mr.Ervine tell us about tliis nation from the experience of his own fine plays, “ Jane Clegg” and “ John Ferguson,” in the American theater? What could he learn of the Oklahomans and the Marylanders, tlie Wyomingites and the New Mexicans, the Oregonians, the Hoosiers, the Badgers, or the Buckeyes from the performances of his and other dramas in New York City? Would he diagnose and decipher us through tests wc have never undergone? Senator Magnus Johnson is not a playgoer, and neither is Henry Cabot Lodge, both of them significant and typical • of the United States. Among us more or less one hundred and ten million Americans, not more, perhaps, than thirty-three and a third per cent, are under the authority of the drama. Chillicothe, Oliio; Tucson, Arizona; Scranton, Pennsylvania; Mobile, Alabama; Portland, Maine, and Seattle know it only by hearsay and the moving pictures. To the farming and pastoral communities of the nation the theater is as remote and uninfluential as tlie Taj Mahal.

Music and literature, however, are easily available and therefore of consequence to the many who live far away from the drama and the busy haunts of man. While the theater is concerning itself only with Broadway and like thoroughfares, books, pic

tures, and song are doing their best to entertain and to improve the tastes of the provincials. The piangulus, the radio, and the victrolium provide the major populace with tlie best there is in tunes, banquet addresses, anecdotes, bedtime fables, and vaudeville. From the Carnegie libraries the rural

M a ry M orris o f the Provincetown Theater plays the part o f the viysterious governess in the charming revival o f "F a sh io n ," an old comedy o f manners.

populace obtain the works of Charles Dickens, James Russell Lowell, Robert W. Chambers, Ralph W. Emerson, Mary J. Holmes, and Carl Van Vechten.

It can hear the compositions of Debussy, Irving Berlin, and Wagner, the voices of Caruso, Chaliapin, and A1 Jolson, the piano playing of Rachmaninoff, and the celestial violining of Zimbalist and Heifetz. All of these are delivered in agreeable Sears-Roebuck packages to precincts into which the theater can not penetrate. "Wliile the other arts are familiar and potent in the Main Streets of America, the drama is exotic and comparatively unknown. Neither Galveston, Texas, nor Providence, Rhode Island, has been moved much by the performances in

New York of “ Cobra,” “ The Show-Off,” the Follies, or “ Cheaper to Marry.”

I suspect, despite Mr. Ervine's belief otherwise, that tlie drama is the least dependable of the evidences of a nation’ character. I know that baseball, the cinema, the comic supplements, stud

poker, the rotogravures of society in the Sunday newspapers, political conventions, bootlegging, and the U. S. Senate are more explanatory than it is possible for any play to be. The drama of every land, except Shakespeare, is chauvinistic. It is blind to horizons beyond its own frontiers. In its most important aspect, it is a recreation for those who have, at the moment, no other resources of amusement. To art it is what chewing-gum is to food or cosmetics to complexions, unless it happens mysteriously to be a showman’s masterpiece.

V T R . ST. JOHN ERVINE should be informed that

the theater of a nation does not so accurately reflect its character as do its books, its commerce, its sports, or its intlustries. He might better reckon the values of a people from its habits in the counting rooms, the art galleries, the libraries, and the concert halls. They are national, the theater is local, or worse. It is true that the committee which awarded the Pulitzer chaplet to the worthiest American play had seen in the United States no dramas aside from those exhibited on Broadway. Plays that had been produced in Chicago, Los Angeles, Indianapolis, Qevcland, and Detroit, were ignored by the judges. Only Times Square and its spurious neighborhoods were allowed to be candidates for the Pulitzer laurels. X masterpiece might have been *:istent in Philadelphia or New Orleans, but it would have been prevented from consideration by the academic and insular experts because it had not been seen in New York.

'T^HE play, of course, is the * thing, and the audiences and

actors are Hamlet’s guilty creatures. It may be symptomatic like a rash, but it provides few remedies. I suspect Mr. St. John Ervine to be the mostintelligent of the upper-class showmen. If,as he says, he can explain a nation by its

plays, I wish he would whisper to me what effect the works of Avery Hopwood, Samuel Shipman, William Anthony Maguire, Owen Davis,or Max Marcin have had on the land of the free and the home of the brave. With what significant ethics have we been provided by the productions of Sam H. Harris, Charles B. Dillingham, Mr. Erlanger, or the Messrs, Selwyn? Are we to be condemned as an unworthy people simply because we react to the Zicgfeld Follies and “ Abie's Irish Rose” ?

But Mr. Ervine’s conclusion may be applied to communities, if not to nations. The drama’s laws the drama’s patrons give; and no bad play is worse than the audiences who enjoy it.



SOME OF T H E SM A R TEST MOTORS ARE SE E N JO IN IN G N E W Y O R E ’S

E X C L U S IV E C O U N T R Y CLUBS '

This stunning Salamanca cabriolet, designed and executed by Rolls-Royce, is pictured above with M eadow Brook Club in the background. The car is fijiished in gim-melal gray with while stripes, and is richly upholstered in faw n broadcloth with walnut moldings. The hardware is o f dull silver.

One o f the latest and smartest custom body creations is this P ark cabriolet by H ealy mounted on a V -6 j Cadillac chassis. The car, .sketched at Sleepy Hollow, is an exceptionally attractive model in green with black and gold striped trimmings, and icpbolstered in an art weave cloth.


j o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 101

1P s

sr,B-«a»-K

The car sketched at P ip in g Rock, shown at the top o j the page, is an excellent example o j the motor builder's art. I t is a Pierce-Arroiu runabout, equipped with a disappearing scat jo r extra passengers.

M arked originality o f line features this special Locomobile roadster in Roitans gray with body designed by Lc Baron and built by Demarest. I t is upholstered in heavy, senii-brighl leather with individual cushions.

W aiting at the Tuxedo Club is the latest six-cylinder forty-horsepower Renault. I ts body by Kellner has a decidedly distinctive air, and Us grace and sweep o f line are accentuated by an unusually long pointed hood.



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B e y o n d a ll c o n t r a d ic t io nT h r o u g h m e r it a n d th r o u g h w o r th —

A t r u th th a t p a ss e s f ic t io n —O u r s o u p s g o r o u n d th e e a r th I

^ V l * C a m p b e l l SOUP ^C A ~ l0 tN , N .J ^ U S -A -

The public has answered. Year after year the demand for Campbell’s Soups has so increased that today the great Campbell’s kitchens stand unique, alone.

Chefs who devote their whole lives to blending fine soups. Kitchens no home could hope to possess. Ingredients that are literally the best money can buy.

So now soup means something so much better that thousands of people who seldom ate soup before, do not let a day go by without enjoying Campbell’s!

Campbell’s Tom ato! See if it does not taste as good as its reputation! The blend of all that is delicious in the tomato, rich butter and tempting seasoning. Wonderful, too, when you cream it.

21 kinds 12 cents a can

o

’ SoupsL O O i i p o n L A = 3 L


106

5teia S BtaineM C R C A T lV t M o u s e

Stela & Blaioe

’ ’oAutumn ”

-a costume complete— by E. M. A. Steinmetz

New in line and fabric and color the three-piece costume is the mode for fall.

F or e v e r y h o u r o f d ay and evening— indoors and out— th ere has b een crea ted a Slein & 'Blaine model that has t r u e f e m i n i n e a p p e a l .

‘7URS/£ffS ~iDP€SSMAKCRS — VULORS

13 and 15 "West 5Tt(i Street H c u j 2 / o r k

T H E F I R S T E M B R A C EE . P h i l l i p s 0 p p e n h e i m ’ s S t o r y

{Continued Jrom page yr)

n A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

you r collar is crumpled and your tie lias surely seen better days.”

“ M adam e,” her visitor replied, “ m y first words should have been words of apology. Believe me, I presented m yself herew ith many misgivings. A slight contretemps in the town —’I slipped while crossing the road and was dragged ou t o f the w ay hurriedly to_ avoid being run over— accounts for the deficiencies o f m y toilet. B ut for a very persistent cab- driver who refused t o leave m e, I d o not know how I would have arrived.”

“ I am relieved,” M adam e murmured. “ In other respects I must confess that I find you marvelously unchanged.”

“ W ith you , without a doubt, M adam e,” he sighed, “ the world has stood still.”

She shrugged her shoulders.“ I m ake a brave show,” she said, “ bu t the

enameler, the coiffeur, the corsetiere, and above ali, m y modiste have t o work hard for m e. W hat do you fhirV o f our friend Car- d in geh ere?”

“ Monsieur remains, as ever, distinguished, but he is w ithout doubt fifteen years older.” Ludor acknowledged.

“ A fter all, then,” Cardinge observed, “ I remain natural. For it is fifteen years since w e m et. A s for you , Ludor, you have sold yourself, I think, to the devil. There is not a gray hair in you r head, not a line upon your face. Just as you were pale in those days, you are pale now . One would have guessed you then anywhere between twenty-five and thirty-five. One would guess the same now .”

"F lattery, from a m an !” Ludor exclaimed. “ I t is the teal thing, that! M a y I not be presented t o M adem oiselle?” he added, glancing to the farther end o f the terrace where Claire was t.ilking t o Armand.

“ In good time,” M adam e replied. “ First, about yourself? ”

“ I remain the same,” Ludor acknowledged. “ In the regrettable suspension o f our mutual undertakings I have com m itted a few crimes and collected a humble fortune.”

M adam e regarded him curiously— Cardinge, fixedly.

“ Y ou have the same hobbies?” tbe form er demanded,

“ Precisely, M adam e,” Ludor confessed, w ith a little smile. “ I am a murderer by instinct as well as b y profession. I have never found any thrill to compare w ith that o f taking life.”

M adam e b it her lips. She was on the point o f shuddering.

“ A re w e to take you literally?” she inquired.

“ Entirely. W h y not? Y o u remember the affair o f the M attre Hellier, the day before the trial o f Estelle and Francois? Also— ”

“ H ellier was in arms against us,” M adame broke in. “ W e did not ca ll tliat murder. H e had fair warning.”

Ludor smiled.“ A re w e becom ing squeamish?” he asked.

“ B ut no matter. There have been m any since M aitre H ellier. A m otive is well enough, bu t 1 like to k ill w ithout a m otive. T he artistic sensation is m ore poignant, and the risk o f detection almost nil. I f it is perm itted I will change m y collar,”

M adam e touched a bell.“ T h ey w ill show you you r room ,” she said.

“ There will be some tea here presently. W e dine a t right.”

"lU D O R withdrew and M adam e and Car- ■L' dinge exchanged glances.

"L u d o r is unchanged,” the latter remarked.

M adam e nodded." H e will probably find us a little— shall I

say unenterprising? ”“ A s we are, so I trust we w ill remain,”

Cardinge rejoined.M adam e looked a t him for a moment, lazily. “ Y ou are a free m an,” she reminded him,

“ I have no further claim upon you . W elcome though you are, I sometimes wonder w hy you s lay on .”

“ Perhaps because I have nowhere to go ," he said bitterly, “ I f at anv time— ”

“ D o not be blatant,’ ’ she interrupted. “ Y ou are welcom e here so long as you choose — for the rest o f you r life, if y ou will. I f ever I give you that little hint to pass on— well, you know what the cause will be.”

She looked down toward the other end o f tbe piazza. Claire had risen to her feet and was com ing toward them.

“ I presume that I have a certain amount of com m on sense," Cardinge observed drearily, " A t least I know that I am on the threshold of forty ."

“ There have been times,” M adam e murmured, “ when I have fancied that you were beginning to forget that.”

“ N ever seriously,” he assured her. “ One has dreams, bu t they pass.”

“ A nd ijrejudices,” M adam e added, “ and they remain.”

H e sighed." 1 1 is true that I d o not like Arm and T oyes.”

“ I t is m y intention,” M adam e declared, “ to m arry Claire to Arm and.”

“ In which case,” Cardinge pronounced, “ I had better leave you r roo f as soon as possible, for there will be war between us.”

M adam e was cold ly but terribly angry. She drew back.

“ A fter w e have dealt w ith L udor," she said, “ i t w ou ld perhaps be as well i f we came to an understanding.”

" I am entirely at you r service, M adam e,” he replied politely. “ Incidentally— what are you going to d o about Ludor? ”

Claire turned abruptly away from Armand and came down the piazza toward them. She spoke w ith an affectation o f carelessness, but the color had risen in her cheeks and her lips were trembling.

“ I d o not think that Budapest has improved Arm and,” she complained.

Arm and follow ed her, long and thin, with a wicked sneer upon his lips, the beauty o f his face temporarily obscured b y his expression.

“ T h e child misunderstands too readily,” he protested. “ Send her back, M adam e. I m ust teach her wisdom.”

Ludor, returning, created a diversion. H e had eyes for no one but Claire.

“ M a y I be presented? ” he begged. “ I had the felicity to see M adem oiselle in the distance on m y arrival.”

M adam e acquiesced w ithout enthusiasm. “ M onsieur Ludor— m y niece. M iss Claire

Fantenay. I m ust warn you , Claire, not to believe a word that M onsieur Ludor says.”

“ I t is treating me unfairly,” Ludor gnim- bled. “ T he truth, however, proclaim s itself. I find M adem oiselle the freshest and the sweetest flower in this wonderful valley of yours.”

• “ M y niece is not used to such com plim ents,” M adam e said coldly,

“ R eturn to Arm and, child, or order a car and g o to the Tennis C lub. W e elders have business to discuss.”

Clair turned away and entered the house. Arm and cam e strolling toward them, handsome once more, having com pletely regained his sclf-assurance.

“ Business?” he repeated. “ M a y I not jo in ?”

“ Y o u m ay not,” M adam e replied. “ That tim e has not com e ye t .”

T h e young m an stood his ground.“ I t seems to m e,” he grum bled, “ that you

m ake use o f m e without allowing m e to amuse m yself b y knowing beforehand w hat is to happen,”

“ N o one is pennitted to question m y word, Arm and,” M adam e rem inded him. "Y o u know that. Leave us.”

t J E R nephew did not venture to dispute X the matter further. H e strolled o ff and

disappeared in the direction o l the garage. Ludor looked after him curiousfr.

“ I suggest that w e proceed lo business," M adam e said.

“ T o business, b y all means,” Ludor as.sontod, stretching himself in his easy- chair. “ N oth ing interests m e so m uch. You sounded the tocsin and behold, I arrive. Show m e what it is that you desire. Incidentally it would be as w ell that I secure my quittance.”

“ I am not sure that w e desire anything of you , Paul,” M adam e confided.

“ W hat? T hat brain o f yours sleeps, M adam e? N oth ing doing? N obody for me to remove? T hen for what purpose have I been brought all these m iles?”

“ I m ight answer, ’ M adam e replied, “ to receive you r quittance. Y o u would be more fortunate than the others who came. They have had to w ork for it.”

“ T o work? B ut that is the jo y o f m y life.” L udor confessed, examining his carefully manicured finger nails. “ There is no one who loves his work as I d o .”

M adam e shivered ever so slightly.• “ Paul,” she declared, “ you ’re a tiger,”

H e smiled cold ly , tapped a cigaret upon thetable and played w ith a match.

" I a t least do not change with the years,” he said. “ There were days when w c played w ith life and death w ith a jest on our lips. L ife was the ball w e threw into the air and caught— perhaps, W iiat did itm atter? A few years either w ay. 1 come back atirl I find you , M adam e unenterprising, and m y friend Cardinge. I gravely fear, a sentimentalist.”

" I have earned m y quittance,” Cardinge reminded him.

“ Y ou are no longer one o f the famous Virgins, then,” Ludor remarked. “ W ell, as for mo, I am one still. I ask for work.”

M adam e rose to her feet and crossed tbe room . She unlocked the secretaire, drew from it a padlocked b ox which again she uiJocked. Presently she returned, leaving' all behind secure. She carried in her hand a sealed envelop, yellow with age.

“ H ere is you r quittance, Paul,” she said. “ I return you r deposit.”

(ContinueJ on page loR)


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 107

H E CAR, M E N A R E W A IT IN G F O RN o greater tribute can be paid to a motor car than this— that men will wait weeks and even months to get one.

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108

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T H E F I R S T E M B R A C EE . Phi l l i ps Oppe nhe i m’ s Story

{Conlinued from page to6 )

E A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

H e fingered the envelop doubtfully for a m oment. Then he smiled.

“ F or the m om ent this had escaped m y m em ory,” he confessed, as he thrust it into his pocket. “ I t contains a brief account o f the first time I realized the curious fascination o f destroying life— a matter forgotten now , beyond a doubt. A little girl who thought that I had deceived her! W hat a banal word! Nevertheless, she was about to open her mouth— so I closed it.”

H e drew a penknife from his pocket and amused himself by cutting the docum ent into small pieces. M adam e and Cardinge watched him. There was something in their faces which seemed to bring M adam e into the likeness o f a human being; Cardinge, in to the ranks o f the sentimentalists whom L udor had derided.

“ I have been a crim inal," M adam e adm itted. “ T h e lights and shades o f crime appealed to m e so m uch in m y younger days that I founded the m ost famous sod e ly o f modern tim es w ith the sole ob ject o f d e ^ n g the law. Even now they talk in Paris o f ‘ M adam e and her V iigins.’ B ut either I have grown softer w ith the years, or you , Paul, offend m y sense of what is humorous o t beautifu l in wrong-doing. I d o not think that I shall ask you to becom e our guest. Y ou have received you r quittance. I require no service o f you in return. A t what time m ay I order you a car?”

Ludor seemed faintly amused, but. at the same time, annoyed. H e looked across the valley.

“ D ear m e !” he sighed. “ And I thought that I m ight have spent such a pleasant week here. I am not t o be allowed to see m ore of you r beautiful ward? ”

“ T hat happens naturally,” M adameassured him . “ I d o not need t o intervene there. Madem oiselle would m ost certainly detest you .”

“ I m ay not even d ine?”“ I should prefer not,” his hostess acknowl

edged. “ I t is fifteen years since w e met, Paul, and I tell you quite frankly that I have taken a dislike to you .”

“ A re you n o t rash?” he asked softly. “ I cou ld turn what they call in England ‘ K ing’s Evidence.' There are still some undiscovered tragedies o f the time when ‘ M adame and her Virgins’ were the terror o f Paris.”

.She smiled scornfully.“ T he law looks askance a t turning back the

leaves a score o f years,” she reminded him. “ Besides, there are still a few o f m y Virgins unalisolved. Y o u would scarcely b e asked, even, t o choose the manner o f you r death.”

“ I ,” C ardingeobserved,“ am absolved. But liiat would not save you r life. Inform ers and vermin one k ills as a matter o f course.”

T p H E butler had answered M adam e’s ring. T She turned to him.

“ M onsieur finds that he w ill be rmable to remain to-night,” she said. “ Repack his things and bring them down. Order a car to be round in a few minutes.”

“ M adam e,” the m an replied, “ Monsieur's clothes are as y e t unpacked. Concerning the cars, however, there is a difficulty. M ademoiselle has taken the limousine to the Tennis Club and M onsieur Arm and the R olls- R oyce in to N ice. M adam e will remember that the m agneto from the third cat has been sent away.”

“ Pray d o not lo t the m ethod o f m y departure disturb y o u ," Ludor said. “ Behold, for some reason m y charioteer o f an hour ago returns. H e can take me to Cagnes.”

U p the last stretch o f the avenue cam e a tum ble-down victoria, drawn b y a weary horse and driven b y the m an w ith the red nose and the white hat. M adam e signed to the butler to withdraw.

" l i e returns opportunely,” she observed. “ B ut w h y?” Ludor murmured.Cardinge rose from his place and strolled

down the stops. T he coachman rem oved his hat.

“ I t is for the M onsieur whom I drove here,” ho annoimced. “ I discovered in the bottom of the carriage— this.”

H e held out a small black memorandum b ook . Cardinge took it into his hand and turned toward Ludor, who had joined him at the foot ot the steps.

“ T h e pocketbook o f M onsieur,” the driver remarked triumphantly,

Ludor took the book into his hands, tiuncxi over the pages, carelessly at first; then with a certain suddenly developed interest. In the end he returned it to the man.

“ Y o u have had you r drive for nothing,” he told him. “ T he pocketbook is not mine.”

The cacAer threw out his hands. H e pointed to the tired horse. H e tapped his watch.

“ I t is an affair o f an hour,” he grumbled. “ N o one else has been in the carriage to-day. H ow could I tell that the pocketbook did not belong to M onsieur?”

“ Y o u will not have had you r journey for nothing," Ludor declared. “ Y ou can take me back to the railway station.”

T he cocker was mollified. T he luggage of Paul Ludor was brought down and stowed away. Ludor himself returned, hat in hantl, t o Madame.

“ M adam e,” he observed, “ it is an inglorious finish, this, t o a wonderful epoch. Think well before y o u send m e away. There is no one who can d o what I can d o so fearlessly, w ith so little risk. I com e prepared. I carrj* a hundred deaths w ith me.”

She shook her head.“ I have slipped down a notch in the code."

she confessed. “ I m ay still rob, but in m y ow n way, and from those whom I select. T o destroy no longer appeals.”

“ I t is a great p ity ,” he said sim ply. “ .And you , Cardinge?”

“ I am even m ore o f a renegade,” was the apologetic reply. “ I am seriously thinking o f becom ing an honest m an.”

A slight expression o f pain flickered across Ludor’s face. So m ight a great artist have listened to one o f the discords o t life.

“ I t is a great di.sappointment to me, this visit,” he acknowledged, as he took his place in the voilure. “ Nevertheless, farewell!”

He w a v e d his hat. T h e cocker cracked his whip. Ludor was driven away down

the winding avenue, between the dum ps of flowering rhododendrons, the Uttle petals of orange-blossoms drifting down through the lemon and verbena-scented air. N one o f these things at the m om ent were appealing to the solitary passenger o f the victoria. H is air o f indifferent toleration had vanished. There was something in his expression reminiscent of vermin suddenly conscious o f danger. There was some sort o f contraction to his moutli. His teeth gleamed white and set. H e leaned forward, unfastened the straps o f his dressing bag, and from a leather case drew out a w iiied -look ing little implement o f duU black metal. Then he watched the road; watched the fields around and waited. There was a certain point which he remembered where the road curved through a small plantation o f pine trees with a precipice on the left-hand side. .Us they neared it he leaned forward in his scat. T h e horse was still proceeding at a long, shambling trot.

“ Y ou ’li have that horse down, cocker,” he warned him. “ I d on 't want to be thrown into the road. D rive m ore carcfully—dow n hill.”

T he man m um bled something and pulled his horse back into a walk. Ludor looked cautiously around, looked behind, and leaned over the side to see as m uch o f the com ing curve us possible. T hen he struck w ith unerring and practised skill at a certain place at the back o f tho driver’s head. T he man tolled over iike a log and fell into the toad. L udor sprang lightly from his place, reached the horse’s head and brought him to a standstill. Down the precipice on the left were great boulders ot stone. In thirty seconds tlie body o f the cocker was rolling down amongst them. Then, without m uch effort, Ludor turned the victoria on to its side, dragging the horse with it. ’There was still no sound except the frightened gasping o f the horse struggling to rise, the snapping o f the shaft, tho groaning and creaking o f the old vehicle. A ll the lim e Ludor noticed and remembered afterwards that a blackbird on the top o f the nearest tree went on singing unconcernedly. H e then entered upon what was to him tbe m ost impleusanl part o f his task. H e deliberately lay down and rolled over in the dusty road, tore a fragment o f his exceedingly well-cut trousers, gashed his left hand, turning at once away, for, as he was always willing lo confess, the sight o f b lood made him sick. H e then took up u heavy fragment o f granite and made sure that the nature o f the w ound o n the back o f hi.s unfortunate victim ’s head was undiscoveralile. A fter which, w ith his dres-sing-bog in his hand, he tramped shouting down the hill.

A y f A D A M E looked up w ith mingled terror -I'-*- and delight at his entrance. Suddenly realizing his condition she threw up her hands.

“ But, M onsieur,” she exclaimed, “ what has happened? A n accident? Jacques, too, m y husband— ”

“ H ave no fear,” he interrupted, setting dow n his dressing case. “ T h y husband, with all the rest o f the village, is crowding up the hill to see what remains o f the catastrophe.”

“ Catastrophe!” she cried. “ Monsieur is hurt?”

“ O n ly shaken,” he replied. “ Ncvortlieless, while I talk, give m e a glass o f brandy. G ood! I was descending from the Villa Sabatin In that rickety old victoria which stands at the station, when tlie hor.sc shied and stumbled. T h e driver was thrown from the box and foil on his head. Carriage, horse, and driver, they all rolled down the precipice. As for me, I was quick and I escaped b y a miracle. 1 walked down for help. T h ey 'v e all gone up. Y ou r husband was one o f the foremost, l ie cannot b e back for half an hour at least.”

M adam e listened.{Continued on page n o )Ayuntamiento de Madrid

j o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 109

6 y \ c 6 -

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*

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T h e P u n e ArmvDual-VaheStpen-Passcnger Enclosed Drive Umousinebuiltfor A . WaUan Armour, Esq.M r Armour chose for this car a BrewHer green finish, with gray Striping on body and hood. Tbe belt is of black, the wheels gray with green Sriping. The upholSiery in taupe affords an effBive contrast



■R- & feyN ffO

oAnnouncingA la rg € c o l le c r io n o f e x c lu s iv e

a n d b e a u t ifu l fu r c o a ts , m a d e in

o u r o W n W o r k r o o m s , n o W

r e a d } ? f o r i n s p e c t i o n . Summer prices to October 1st.

lERGDORF lOODMAN

616 HFTH AVENUE NEW YORK

T H E F I R S T E M B R A C EE. Phi l l i ps Oppenhei m’s Story

(Concluded from page log )

“ M onsieur," she whispered, “ it is terrible to think that you have been in danger.”

H e m oved toward>the end oE the counter. H is eyes were fixed upon her. She seemed to obey their unspoken message and followed him. A t the end he leaned over. H is arm was around her neck for a m om ent. Their lips m et. Then he drew away.

“ Celeste, you arc wonderful,” he murmru'ed. “ L ife shall be wonderful for you .”

“ B ut what can I d o ? ” she cried. “ Even if I had the courage— if I left Jacques, he would follow and kill.me.”

“ There is a w ay o f providing against tliat,” he assured her. “ T hat is, i f y ou have the courage. I will g ive you something. Y ou put it in his coffee. I t is tasteless. N o one will ever know. H e will be ill— at any rate too weak to travel for weeks. A fortnight to-day— d o you understand?— a fortnight today you get on the train which leaves Cagnes for Cannes at three thirty-five. I shall be in the train— in the back part. F rom Cannes we shall take the train for Paris. You will send m e a telegram to tbe address I shall give you at N ice, t o say that you are com ing. W ill you d o this?”

“ Yes,” she answered.H er voice— it was a very musical voice

generally, with a pleasant inSection and a curious softness— had suddenly becom e thick and hoarse. H er eyes were like still fires of passion- H er hands, brown and hardened w ith work, bu t shapely, clutched the edge of the counter. H e handed her a little packet and she dropped it into the bosom o f her gown. Then he tore a sheet o f paper from a pocket book and wrote hastily upon it.

“ I go now,” he continued, “ to make m y report to the police on this wretched accident. •Afterwards to N ice, perhaps to M on te Carlo, to pass as best I m ay this fortnight. Y o u will not fail me, Celeste?”

“ 1 will not fail you ,” she promised.H e looked a t her meaningly.“ Y o u understand— th a th ew illb e ill? H ave

no fear. T here is no living doctor who could tell the reason w hy.”

“ I understand,” she answered.

'T 'H IR T E E N days later Cardinge, seated underneath one o f the striped umbrellas

outside the C att de Paris at M on te Carlo, became suddenly aware that the occupant of the next table was Paul Ludor. T he recognition was mutual- T he latter, w ith his glass in his hand, rose and slipped into the vacant chair at Cardinge’s side.

“ Y o u perm it?” he murmured. “ I think, perhaps, I can amuse you i f you have a minute or tw o to spare.”

“ I have plenty o f time to spare,” Cardinge admitted.

“ I will tell you the story o f m y accident,” L udor continued- “ I fancy that it will appeal to you r sense o f humor. Y ou will remember that the driver o f the victoria who followed me up to the v illa came w ith the excuse o f a pocketbook.”, “ I remember.”

“ I t became immediately obvious to m e that the return o f that pocketbook was an excuse. The ink in it was not dry. A ccordingly I studied the coeher’s face— providentially. D o you realize who he was? ”

Cardinge shook his head.“ A t the inquest they sim ply said that he

was a newcomer who had brought his horse and victoria over from N ice.”

“ H is name,” Ludor declared, “ wasCoichan. H e was a private detective who had caused me annoyance on m ore than one occasion. I shall never com m it a crime in which detection is possible, bu t there was a little affair w ith a troublesome tradesman which left just a shadow o f a clue— nothing that could ever be proved, but it was sufficient, perhaps, to create suspicion. Coichan got hold o f it, and he has several times since made himself a nuisance t o me. I realized that this must be put a stop to . On the way down the hill I — pardon me, bu t 1 know you r prejudice— I disposed o f him, stage-managed the accident, et voila tou t."

Cardinge shrugged his shoulders. H e declined to show any emotion.

“ A detective must take his risks," he o b served.

“ Precisely,” the other agreed. “ I was never afraid o f Coichan, but he was as well out o f tho w ay and the opportunity was not to be missed. Cagnes was quite a fortunate place

for me,” he went on, ruminatingly. “ W omen, I know, for some reason or other are not you r weakness— but there is a little la d y there, at the Caf^ de L ’Univers. I met her the day before in N ice— simply charming.”

“ W hy, her husband died, last week,” Cardinge remarked, “ I remember seeing the funeral.”

Ludor sighed.“ H ow unfortunate— and yet how oppor-

tim e!” he exclaimed. “ M adam e joins me on the train which leaves here at two-thirty this afternoon. I am taking her to Paris. Rbp will amuse m e for some m onths at any rate.”

H is com panion rose t o his feet.“ Ludor, ’ he pronounced, “ I find you a

detestable fellow. I desire to forget that we have ever been acquainted. L et that finish it between us. Y ou understand? ”

H e strolled away. Ludor looked after his quondam associate and there was evil in his face.

'T 'H E R E was not the slightest change in the L expression o f Paul Ludor as from the

carriage window he watched the keeping o f his tryst. Celeste was there on the platform ; a little crowd o f relatives bidding her affectionate adieux. H e watched the embraces, watched the small com pany o f somberly clad peasants wave their farewells as the train left the station. P resent^ he folded up his paper, and strolled through the train until he cam e to the com partment where she was sitting— the sole occupant.

“ C6IesteI” he murmured.She looked at him out o f her beautiful eyes. “ Sit down b y m y side ," she begged. “ I

am afraid.”H e patted her hand encouragingly.“ There is nothing to fear," he assured her.

“ A ll will b e well now . W e have an hour to wait at Cannes. I shall take you to the shops and buy you some pretty trifles. On tlie train to Paris I have everything arranged. W e shall be very com fortable and very happy. Is it not so. Celeste?”

Those wonderful eyes wereliftedforam om ent and Ludor was immensely interested. W as it possible that she was going to turn his bead? E ven her clothes, at the thought o f which he had shuddered, were passable. Nevertheless, when they arrived at Cannes, he bought her a black silk traveling cloak and a black hat, some gloves and a trifle o f jewelry. A s he watched the transformation he began to realize that he had found a prize . . . - W hen the train for Paris cam e thundering in he showed her w ith pleasure the wagon lit into which their luggage was taken.

“ I t will b e a great pleasure, this journey,” he declared. “ First o f all, w c must dine— there is a rush for places. A nd afterwards— ”

“ Our first embrace,” she whispered.T h ey were very gay at dinner-time. Celeste

ate little, bu t she drank her share o f champagne and laughed when they com pared l i e brandy to the brandy of the cafe. A fterwards they made their w ay back to their compartment. H e closed t i e door.

“ Our first em brace," he reminded her.She laughed softly.“ Tell m e one thing,” she begged. “ Did

you know when tou gave me the powder that he would die?

Ludor smiled,“ I t was so m uch better,” he explained.

“ There m ight have been trouble afterwards. N ow we have nothing to fear,”

T he train roared in to 'a tunnel. H is arms went around her. T hen he saw a light in her eyes such as he had never d r e a m t o f— the light o f something else flashing in the jet blackness; heard the sickening hiss o f steel driven through human flesh, his flesh, T hen a m oment’s pain and blackness. T he train cam e tearing ou t in to the light. CSieste looked at what she had done and laughed,

1 T H IN K m y nerve must be going,” M a dame s ig h ^ , as she laid dow n the news

paper. “ This has given me quite a shock.” Cardinge paused in the act o f lighting his

cigaret.“ M y nerves remain unaffected,” he de

clared, “ W hat 1 am suffering from is an obtrusive wave o f m orality. A s a Virgin, even one who has received his quittance, I should regret this disaster to vice. Instead I find the whole affair m ost satisfactory,”

Arm and took up the paper with a grin.“ I t ’s so damned funny,” was his comment,

Despite the very complete revierai o f the new fall mode next month, Harper's Bazar will also contain some unusually interesting fiction. Cosmo Ilainillon, Achmed Abdtdlah, Holloway Horn, E. Phillips Oppenheim, and Anne Parrish will all contribute.


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4111

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S E M I - A T T A C H E DAnne P a r r i s h ’ s Nov e l

{CoiUinued from page 87)


was still an adventure. B ut Bim , emerging presently, shining, freshly shaved, and so tall and straight and strong that her heart leaped at the sight, was not responsive.

“ W hat’s the matter, B im ?”“ N othing.”Hasn’ t it been heavenly to-day? 1 went

to the woods after I 'd been to help at your m other’ s— I ’m m ud from head to foot. The baby ferns are all uncurling, so fuzzy, and I saw a little tree-toad— Bim , something « the m atter. .Are you i l l? ”

“ N o .”“ A re you— ? ”“ Y ou 'd better hurry. W e don ’ t want to be

late.”“ B m , I could shake you ! D on ’t use that

ten-million-miles-away voice— you ’ll make me cry. W hat have I

“ I ask Lockw ood in for a cocktail. The houM is dark, the living-room looks like the devil. N o oranges— no ice— nothing but old rice pudding.”

“ Y o u might have given him that,” Francie murmured. She and Bim ’s brother had taken to each other on ly tepidly.

“ W here are those damn m aids?”“ I let them go to the movies, as long as we

were going t o be out for dinner. I t s ‘ The Four Horsemen,’ and Cookie has a case on E odolph Valentino— ”

“ Oh, heO!”“ M y goodness, B im bo, you ’re going on as

i f a lady novelist had written you r conversation for you , so virile and lull o f swears.”

“ Living in this house is like living in a pigpen. I t ’s about tim e you paid some attention to you r hom e.”

1_ T E W AS furious that Lockw ood, used to f O live’s perfect housekeeping, should be in a position to criticize Francie. H e was, without realizing it, tired after an unseasonably hot day, and depressed at the thought o f the fam ily dinner before him. A ll day he had looked forward to the relief o f this little in- between tim e w ith Francie, his heart heavy with love for her, and now it was all spoilt. The Sultan had not been soothed.

Frande was deeply hurt, and did not answer. H er dressing, as usual, ended in a whirl o f de^rerate baste, while B im stood al the foot o f the stairs with his watch in his hand and im plored her to hurry. Everythirrg went wrong,

“ Frande, you must com e,”“ A ll right— oh, m y hair— ” she moaned.

Panic seized her. She didn ’t want to go aud be s n u b b ^ b y his m other. She dabbled some scent behind her ears, purposely delaying for a moment.

“ Y ou ’ve got to com e whether you ’re dressed or not,” said B im , com ing into the room . “ Oh, Lord, F rande. Y ou have a hole in your stocking.”

She took a position like a classical dancer posing for a photograph, and examined her stocking heel.

“ Shall I boot-poiish m yself so I w on ’t show? N o , don ’t look so horrified, I ’ll take a needle and thread and mend m yself in the m otor. W e ll be on time.”

B ut they were not on time— so far from being on time that Evans, tbe buder, looked at them reproachfully, and Olive, com ing out into the hail to see, as she informed them, if they really had com e at last, said playfully as she and F rande laid unentliusiastic cheeks together:

"T h e late M rs. Arthur Bennet!”

p V A N S announced them and dinner simul- •*-* taneously; and F rande had only time to kiss M rs. Bennet’ s cheek, which was iike kissing a hot-water bag that had gone rather cool m the night, before she found her place at the big round table o n which, earlier in the day, she had seen Evans, his shoes o ff and his feet encased in the green felt bags that tea-pots com e in , arranging the pink begonias, the sprays o f smiiax, and the silver pheasants.

Her heart, already heavy, sank even lower as she looked around the table at the guests struggling with their indestructible hors d’ lBuvres o f tough toast and bits o f anchovy and egg. T he Bennets, to begin w ith: Bim, always so intensified a Bermet when he was with his fam ily; L qckw ood; Olive, in a pink gow n covered w ith a y s ta l beads, with her bright eyes and bright color and small unchanging smile, a satisfactory daughter-in- law who knew all about such mysteries as housekeeping, politics, and bridge whist, and w ho had already given birth to three fine Bennet babies. A t the foot o f the table sat U ncle H enry Lockw ood, M rs, Bennet’ s brother who lived with her at “ T h e H em locks,” dissolving lith ia tablets in his glass o f water, and sniffing in a depressed w ay from tim e to time. M r. L a m b i^ the rector ot Saint T im oth y ’s-in-the-M cadows, his face turned attentively toward his hostess; his wife, chirping to Uncle H enry. A unt M ay Conyngham, old and fat and deaf, smiling and nodding and making little polite sounds from time to time, to show that she was not feeling

left out o f things; M iss Smiley, completely extinguished b y her costum e o f nasturtium satin that had once been Olive's; M ts, H um phrey and her daughter Elaine H um phrey, the poetess, christened Ella and never allowed to forget it by M rs. Bennet. Mrs. H um phrey was M rs. Bennet’ s closest friend in Belleridge. (N ot her closest year-round friend, however. Dearest Susy was all right for the summer, bu t winter and N ew York dem anded something a little grander— demanded, in fact, M rs. Harrison Payne. E ach autumn when M rs. Beiuiet m oved in to her town house, dearest Susy yielded lo dearest Henrietta.)

A L L so safe in their conventionality and their certainty o f what was r i ^ t and

what was wrong. B ut Francie wished she weren't cheating them. T he thought kept her from feeling the gende superiority that w ould have been so sustaining for after all, was dishone-sty, even reluctant dishonesty, a finer thing than com placent sdf-sadsfactiou? It w ^ wretched, this evasion. Playing safe. H aving her ow n w ay, and paying nothing for it in loss o f caste o r com fort. B y listening to B in 's plea for secrecy she had lost the respect o f no one but herself.

A s it did so often, the longing to tell took p o s s ^ io n o f her. “ B im and I aren’ t m arriedl” She imagined shoutingit out. She said it under her breath, as she helped herself to peas.

Suppose they should find ou t that a Scarlet woman was among them ? N ot that she felt pardcularly scarlet; perhaps she was only a pink, a pale pink woman. She became aware o f a round eye fixed on her through a gap in the flowers in the center o f the table, and M rs . Lam bert chirped brigh tly:

“ Y ou look as if you were in a brown study, little lady ! A penny for you r thoughts! ”

Suppose she siiould give them. Suppose, instead o f her smiling mtuinur, she should answer pleasantly:

“ I was wondering, since Bim and I aren't married, Just what shade o f a scarlet woman I am .”

H ow would the bland chewing faces look then?

Struggling against an hysterical desire to burst ou t laughing, she turned to respond to M iss Smiley.

“ Arthur’s little bridel I never was so thrilled in m y life! So suddeni W e hadn’t even know n that you were engaged, you know. (Evans is offering you the salted almonds.) N ow — tell m e all about Bte wedding! ”

“ W e d idn 't have any wedffing,” said F rande truthfully.

“ N o , o f course not, dear, how thoughtless o f m e, o f course you didn’t. W e were so, so shocked to hear o f you r loss— so lovely that dear A rthur was there to com fort you— ”

Cries o f admiration greeted the entrance of a squash gondola full o f salad, w ith “ The H em locks” in green on its sides. T o Francie, struggling against the feeling o f inner blankness, the restraint, that M rs. Bennet’ s presence always put rmon her, the dinner seemed endless. H er half-hearted attem pts at engaging Lockw ood in conversation had not m et w ith m uch success, “ H e ’s about as animated as a fish giving one last flap in a boa,t-bottom ,” she said to herself. Miss Smiley, on her other side, was kept busy screaming a t A unt M a y . I f on ly B im would look at her, would telegraph across the table one o f the messages that lovers know:

“ Darling— I understand— ”T h en the dreary evening would have

sparkled w ith hidden laughter, w ith warm companionship, w ith the secret beauty that on ly they tw o knew.

B u t Bim was eating his dinner while Elaine H um phrey yearned toward him, winding her string o f big blue beads about her fingers.

“ One doesn’t know what it is to be lonely when one’s alone.” Francie heard her say. “ I t ’s when one’s in some great crowd tlmt one sounds the depths o f loneliness— ”

■ ^ H E end o f the dinner came at last, and coffee in tbe drawing-room—o r at leasta

health drink that was rather like coffee and guaranteed not t o keep M rs. Bennet awake. U n d e H enry, w h o in the care o f his health made his sister herself appear an amateur, distrusted even this, and had hot milk. The Lamberts tore themselves away.

“ I t ’.s very rarely that we give ourselves the treat o f dining ou t on W ednesdays.” Mrs. Lambert explained “ M r. Lam bert has the M en 's Club every W ednesday, you know, anti I have m y Girls’ Friendly— but w e never can resist an opportunity to com e here— it has been delightful. So lovely that you ’re home againi ” A nd M r, Lambert added w ith simple gravity ; “ Saint T im othy’s has needed .v^iu."

“ N ow w e will have some bridge,” announced M rs. Bennet. “ O n ly a few hands, as I am very tired. W c have just enough for two tables. R ing for Evans and ask him to set up tho bridge tables, H arriet. H arriet!”

{Continued ou page 114)

I


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4113

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114 E A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

S E M I - A T T A C H E DA n n e P a r r i s h ’ s N o v e l

(Coiilinuid from page i t s )

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“ I beg your pardon. Cousin Em ily! I d idn 't just hear what you said,” cried flustered Harriet, who had been in the midst o f telling Francie that o f course the Sphinx was absolutely perfect, bu t all the samey it was sort o f creepy.

W hen any one told M rs. Bcnnet that they had not heard her she always, repeated her remark stili lower. This she did now.

“ Ring for Evans and ask him to set up the liridge tables— or perhaps you might just get them, as he does like to get his work done, and he was a little discouraged when dinner was so late. I suppose A unt M a y will want to play— ask her, Harriet. Olive, will you or Frances p lay at A unt M a y ’s table, so that you can talk to her? I am too tired to raise m y voice to-night.”

“ I ’m soriy, T don ’ t p lay bridge, M rs. Bennet,” M id Francie. H er spirits rose. Perhaps sjle and Bim could go now, for without t l» m there were still eight people.

“ D on ’s f -p la y bridge?” repeated Mrs. Bennet feredu iou sly . “ H ow do you get along, thdS? H ow extraordinary. Y ou must leam . H afriet, Frantes doesn’t play bridge, so that leaves a place !oiyoa. H ow shall we divide? Susy, you and f i l a and Arthur and 1 , I think, and that leaves Lockw ood to take care o f the ladies at the other table. W ill you cu t for deal, please? Ah, I have it! These cards o f mine are delightful to deal, so smooth— you should get some like them, Susy. I hope I have done well for us, Arthur—good gracious, what a hand! I ’m afraid I shan't be the least help— ”

U n d e H enry was hidden b y the screen he had pulled around him to guard against draughts, but a rustling like a mouse in a waste-paper basket indicated that he was busy with the evening papers.

T ?R .\N C IE sat down and tried to look at the pictures in a Kalional Geographic

Magazine that M iss Smiley, who was diunmy, had brought her, whispering: “ Some lovely views o f the Nile— of. course they lack the color— tell you all about them later.” B ut she could not see for the dazzle o f angry tears in her eyes. So far as they knew, she was that shining being, a bride, at the first real gathering o f the fam ily since Bim had brought her into it ; and she was receiving less attention than Lily, the spaniel, who was holding up the game while her mistress gave her a chocolate and told her she was a bad little girl. She had been ignored all through dinner, and now she was left to amuse herself. W inking back her teMs, she_ looked at the absorbed faces, Olive’ s bright complacence as she made her b id; Lockw ood’s small thin-lipped closely shut mouth, his lifted brows and drooping eyelids. Aunt M a y and Harriet Smiley and the Humphreys did not count. They cou ld not touch her. T he others could not have touched her, either, i f B im had stayed beside her. B ut he had joined his own people. H is face, as he studied his cards, was like their faces, alien and remote.

“ I f you hadn’ t discarded those small hearts, Olive— ” Lockw ood began; and a moment later M rs. Bennet was heard from the other table asking Bim w hy in tho world he had not responded to some signal or other.

“ Oh, how you all bore m e !” Frandesaid to herself. She got up, and wandered out of the room , pretending not to hear Bim call; “ Come and watch m y hand, F randel”

Curled up on the window-seat o l the landing half-way up the stairs, she could not see the players, but she could hear their voices; Harriet shouting, "Y o u r bid, A unt M a y !” and M rs. Bennet’s lower tones, “ W ould you mind telling me just why you made that diamonds?”

H er heart was a hard knot in her breast. H ow had .she ever thought that she and Bim could belong to each other? They were a million miles apart, and the on ly thing to be thankful for was that they were still free.

She pressed her hot cheek to the cold window pane; against the lamps on the driveway she could see rain falling. T he bedroom windows at home were all open, and Agnes and Delia were out; the curtains would he soaked. She didn’t care. Bim had said the house was like a pig-pen anyway.

Bim , who was dummy, strolled into the hall with some remark about a cigaret; Mrs. Bennet did not encom age smoking in her drawing-room. Francie could see tho white flash o f the cigaret drooping from the com er o f his mouth against his brown skin, as he paused in sight o f the bridge players to light it. Then he m oved out o f their sight, and, throwing it away, looked for her, found her, was beside her.

His strong arms held her to him until she yielded and lay soft and clinging, his mouth found her sweet lips, delicately fresh as flowers w et in a mist from the sea. W ith an ecstasy o f relief they found each other t^ain.

She sat drenched with bliss after he left her, her whole body tingling. She felt as i f the exquisite fire running through her veins must blossom through her Snger-tips into pointed

singing flames. Restored and com forted, she smiled to think o f how unhapjiy she had been, how absurd. W hat had happened, after all? A dull dinner, and a family game o f bridge— what difference did they make? W hat difference did anything make, as long as there was Bim?

A T M rs. Lockwood Bennet’s a meeting was ^ being held to discuss the forthcom ing fair and tableaux for the benefit o f the Church of Saint T im othy’s-in-the-Meadows, and Bernard Jackson, who had been made stage manager because he had a reputation for being “ artistic ,” was holding forth.

"M rs . Bim Bennet for the Slave. I can ’t be the Sultan myself. I ’l l be too busy— Bim would make a good one, you ’d better make him be Sultan, M rs. Bennet.”

“ Bim isn’t raudi at dressing up,” said Francie doubtfully.

“ Ofu it will be a simple costume— if I were doing it I ’d just paint m yself all over with silver radiator paint, and then make a costume o f those big five and ten cent store pearls.”

' ‘ Really— 1” exclaimed several ladies; and M r. Lambert, who prided himself on being a m an o f the world as well as a priest, added, with a pleasant laugh:

“ This isn’ t the Latin Quarter, old fellow, y ou know ! ”

Under the open window rose a loud tuneless song:

“ There’s a Friend for little children A bove the bright blue sky,There’s a Friend for little children A bove the bright blue sky,”

“ M ercy, M ary Olivia, run out and stop that noise!” Olive said to the little girl who w ^ sitting beside her on a footstool.

“ I t ’s John singing his Sunday-school hymn. M other.”

“ N ever mind what it is. W e can ’ t hear ourselves think.”

Francie, from the window-seat, could see John, a thoughtful looking little b oy wearing large spectacles, sitting in the simshuie on the steps, singing to himself.

“ There’s a Friend for little children A bove the bright blue sky— ”

“ M ercy, Joh n !” exclaimed his .sister, appearing in the doorway, “ M other says, for mercy’s sakes, stop! M other says you 're making such a noise tliat they can 't hear themselves think."

“ A il right,” said John amiably, scrambling to llis feet, and the children went into the house together just as their grandmother drove up in her motor.

T ^ R S . BF.N N ET, entering, greeted evcry- -‘- T i one w ith affable condescension. While opposed to unpunctuality in others, she was often late herself because she had found that if she was on time she was sometimes kept waiting. She accepted tea, decided against cucumber sandwiches, dispatched Olive’s waitress for a few slices o f plain bread and butler, and asked what had been done so far at the meeting.

' ‘ I hope you 've finished making the arrangements for the W hite Elephant booth .”

“ W e've only talked about the tableaux. M am m a. But I ’ve had a great m any prom ises o f things people don ’t want for the W hite Elephant booth .”

“ H ere are some little people who are going to give some o f their old toys for the W hite Elephant booth , I k now !” chirped M rs. Lambert, “ Y o u want to give us some o f your toys, don ’t you , darling?”

“ N o,” said John, who was a truthful little boy.

"W h y , J oh n /'’“ I ’m going to give m y Golliwog,” said

M ary Olivia importantly. “ A nd prob ’ly m y battledore and shuttlecock, I can’ t give away m y big baby doll, can I, M other, because D addy gave her to me, and it would make him feel so badly,”

“ Sweet!” .some o f the ladies whispered. “ D on ’t you want to give some of your toys,

John? Think how happy you would make some poor, poor little b oy who hadn’t any beautiful home like this, o r kind M other or D addy, o r pretty playthings.”

John, bewildered by this surlden introduction o f a poor little boy, remained silent.

“ M other doesn’t like her little b oy to be selfish,” Olive observed disapprovingly.

“ Poor little boy , nothing to play w ith l” M rs. Lambert affected tears.

John’s lip began to tremble.“ Oh, that poor, poor little h o y l”John could stand i t no longer. Rushing

from the room , he came back staggering under the weight o f a woolly lamb nearly as big as himself; a lordly lamb with a bright green wooden stand, a lustrous pink ribbon with a silver bell about its neck, and a life-like bleat when its head was bent to one side.

(Continued on page i i 6 )


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 115

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TRapie L a r fe fiGPSclf? mixes tfiese p re p a ra tio n sY o u m ay have im agined that M arie Earle was just a nam e. It is M arie E arle in p erson mHo m akes the M arie Earle preparations. T lie form u las cam e to h er fr o m h er uncle, a sk in specialist ill H arley Street, L on don . She first becam e knoM n to w om en o f wealth and fash ion in Paris, w here she established a truly exclusive salon . T h ey were qu ick to realize that M arie Earle speaks with authority on the care o f the com p lex ion . T hey to ld their friends o f the u n iqu e m erits and the effectiveness o f M arie Earle’ s preparations. E ventually she was persuaded to op en a salon in New Y o r k f o r a ch osen few clients. . . . She still m akes h er ow n jireparations, the lotion s, the cream s, the astringents. M ost o f the ingredients are im p o rte d ; all are o f finest quality. T h e pow ders and the bath soap are m ade f o r h er in France.

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S E M I - A T T A C H E DA n n e P a r r i s h ' s N o v e l

(Conliniied from page 114)

“ For the b o y ,” he cried, easting it upon M rs. Lam bert; and then gave w ay to loud sorrow, for he loved the lamb.

'‘ John!” cried his m other. "Y o u r lovely baa-lamb that dear Grandmother brought you all the w ay from London! H e r e i l y adores his Iamb,_Mamma. T don ’t know what’s the matter w ith him this afternoon. John, come to M other— now blcnv— there! N ow give dear Grandmother a nice kiss and tell her you ’re sorry you acted as i f you didn’t like your lieautiful haa-lamb. M other doesn’t like her little b oy t o be ungrateful.”

“ B ut t ie b oy— ”“ Afademoiselle will help you find some of

you r old toys to give— ”“ W e didn’t finish the casting o f the final

tableau,” put in Bernard, who was getting bored. " I want to save one or tw o o f you for bags and hunchbacks, and all the rest will be wom en o f the harem, except M rs. Arthur Bennet as the Beautiful. Slave, and her husband as the Y ou n g Sultan.”

“ A nd what will om husbands b e ? ” asked Olive.

“ Oh,” said Berna^djjiirily, " th e y can all be eunuchs,”

“ W hat's a e u n u c ^ ' John inquired from the warm shelter o f Francie’s arm.

“ N ever mind, d S aJ ’ began his m other, but M ary Olivia answered:

“ Oh, you silly littleiboy , don ’t you know that? I t ’ s an animal w ith just one horn sticking ou t o f the m iddle o f its forehead, only there aren’t any, really.”

■ pR A N C IE , brushing her, lips across the t- silky top o f John’s head; to hideher latighter, thought that she must-save that to tell B im . M ore and m ore she found herself saving things to tell him, trying to . think in advance o f things to say that would interest him ; less and less was she depending on the inspiration of the m om ent. I t seemed incredible to her. remembering the never-failing conversation o f her own family, that she and Bim were already almost talked-out: bu t it was so. B im could talk well on business, finance, politics, sports, bu t he had soon found how useless it was to talk o f any o f them to Francie w ith expectations o f intelligent response; as useless as F rande found it to hold forth to him on music, books, her flowers. So they talked o f people and told each other anecdotes.

Arguments, vehement and impassioned, had always been the breath of life to the Gay- thom s; they would argue about anything: whether Queen Elizabeth had really been a m an; whether the soul was im m ortal: whether the dessert plates were green or blue. But the Bennets did not like arguments. Mrs. Bennet, when she was getting the worst o f one, always shut her opponent up b y closing her eyes; and her sons, although their eyes remained open, were like her. I t had never occurred t o any o f them that harm ony is not achieved b y the suppression or evasion o f discordant things, bu t b y accepting them with courage and integrity, and working each separate part into the com pleted whole.

Frande, w ith a woman’s longing for unification, suffered deeply because she and Bim remained separate always except when they embraced. W hen passion was gone, as it m ust go, what would be left them? .Affection — indifference— or dislike? She could not surely say,

Bim suffered from the material side o f their companionship. H e found Francie’ s careless ways almost unbearable. H is socks were either left in holes o r else were pulled together b y a sort o f pudding-bag string o f darning cotton ; buttons, lightly replaced, came o ff at inconvenient m oments; omelets that could have been used for iton-holders appeared al breakfast: dead flowers in yellowing water adorned the living-room . T he household accounts were always in a state o f muddle, for figures were nothing but so m any sym bols o f torture to Francie, and she would go on dreamily dating her checks; “ M a y 30, M ay 31, M a y 32, M a y 33— or when on M ay thirtieth a check was to be made ou t in paym ent o f the ashman’s l)ill for three dollars, she was apt to date the check M a y 3, and make the am ount thirty dollars. H er housekeeping was along the same vague lines. .Ahe would accept the cook ’s ordering o f dinner, forgetting until too late that Bim hated veal cutlets and blanc-mange— blanc-mange that in spite of her promises would appear the next evening faintly disguised by blobs o f jelly. She would try in vain to be brave enough to tell the waitress that she must wash the silver more carefully, after Him had ostentatiously polished each o f his spoons and forks on his napkin; bu t she coulrf not bear to find fault with her servants. W hen Delia, the cook, early in F randc’s days o f housekeeping, collapsed w ith sobs and cries on the kitchen table. Frande thought:

“ P oor thing! N othing to look at but that old stove, and pots and pans— no wonder she’s m elancholy!” A nd she had hurried off ihrnugh pouring rain lo buy a pot o f blue

hyadn lhs for the kitchen. I t was B im who, com ing home to find no dinner ready, dis? covered that the wom an had finished o ff his brandy, and sent her packing.

O O M E T IM E S Frande would decide to reform, and would spend hours in the

kitchen, making a hedgehog from a cake stuck full o f bristles m ade o f slivered almonds; or a salad whose secret had been taught her father b y a Rmssian artist; or the thick onion soup that B im loved . She would straighten the books that sprawled and stood on their heads in the overflowing bookcases; see that the dgaret-boxes contained something m ore than their usual tobacco dust; wash the foggy glasses in hot suds and fill them with fresh flowers; and B im 's pleasure would m ake her resolve never to be untidy and shiftless again. B ut the next day she would be practising until dark, or hunting for ferns in the woods, and B im would com e hom e lo yesterday’s newspapers still ly ing about the living-room, yesterdaj-'s flowers beginning to drop their petals, and yesterday’s roast in the hash that he detested.

Bim , too, made his efforts— efforts costing m ore than any that she could make, for he was without imagination; it was almost impossible for him to realize another per.son’s point o f v iew . Francie knew how m uch love for her was behind the brave and blundering attempt to be one w ith her in other ways than the sure w ay o f their passion.

H e tried to read the books she cared for, or tried to keep awake while she read them to him ; tried, bewildered, to hear the beauties audible to her in music that seemed to him m erely “ crazy” — music that had neither tune nor title to show you where you were. His efforts were at times entertaining, but Francie found them infinitely touching, iifore than anything else they m ade her realize that he and she could never break through the loneliness that separated each from the other; and her heart was heavy with love and hopelessness, A t times she grew frantic with the thought that his groping attempts, showing her she could never be really happy with him, showed her too that so long as he wanted her she cou ld never leave him.

Life’ s complicated cords enmeshed her.

“ T ^ H Y can’ t you always be like this, Francie?” B im asked one night after

the last guest at a successful dinner hail left. T he living-room was at its best in the soft light from the la m p s ' under their moonlight- colored shades; the rows o f dark hooks with here and there a shining ot gilt gave depth to the warm white paneled walls; the curtains the color o f dead beech-leavcs were drawn. Over the mantelpiece hung Whistler's painting of Francie as a child, done as .a gift to her father one year when the Gaythorns were living in Clielsea; a dark-haired tiny girl in the creamy silk smock and yellow shoulder knots that had given the picture its title o( Am ber aud Ivory. Bowls o f primroses carried the notes o f yellow out into the room.

Francie herself, in a silver dress with a wreath o f silver leaves binding the silk bubbles o f her hair, had been radiant all evening, her eyes dark-fringed starry slits o f laughter, her cheeks like wild roses. Bim piillerl her down beside him, kis.sing the curve o f her neck.

"H o w good you smell, Frande— what isI t ? ”

“ Yellow jasmine. W as dinner all right, B im b o?"

“ Fine. AVhat d ’you call that stuff with the cherries and kirschwasser? "

"Crem e Jubili. I t came from M ichel’s and cost a million dollars. M rs. W helm ore had three helps, talking all the time about her ncw reducing exercises— she’s in that class Alice M urray wanted m e to join . They all have to wear pale green silk cr6pe tunics— wouldn'l y ou love to see them ? B im ! Did y ou see that small curled lettuce leaf she dropped on her bosom , rising and falling so geutiy with her breathing, like a ship on a summer sea? I t hypnotized me— it hypnotized Fred Stevens, to o ."

“ I t wasn’t any lettuce leaf tlial hypnotized Fred. W hen he got here he was as full as— as— "

‘“ Full as a lily is o f dew,’ ” Francie suggested.

'T 'H E Y g.avc themselves up to the dissection -*• o f their guests, even as the guests, in their

hom eward-bound m otors, were busily dissecting their host and hostess.

“ M rs, Stevens— Lord, how that woman does talk— I”

"Q u ite nice, though, I think, even i f she does look like a m ovie actress’s m other.”

“ L ook liere, Frande, that reminds me— you ’ve got to be more careful o f what you say about people here— things get repeated. Some one told m y mother what you said about M rs. Braiiiard, and it made her tired.”

“ W hat did I say about Mrs. Brainarri, please?”

“ Y ou said she looked so like a cook that if (C oulin tu d ou page 1 1 8 )


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S E M I - A T T A C H E D

she wanted one all she’d have to do would be to sit on her doorstep, and they’d come flocking the w ay real ducks com e flocking to a decoy duck.”

"Y es , I d id say that,” Francie admitted rather com placent^.

“ M other’s extremely fond o f M rs. Brainard, and she told me to tell you— ”

"O h , don’t, B im ! D on ’t ! ”" I ’m sorry you can’t stand even the

mention of m y family.”“ D on 't be l y ! B ut they don ’t like me—;” “ Nonsense, they think you ’re fine,” said

B im without m u d i conviction. "B u t why w on’t you be yourself with them, the way you were to-night? T hen they 'd be crazy about you .”

“ I can’t be myself— I ’m out o f m y element— ”

“ Nonsense.”“ Bimbo, I feel like a fish ou t o f water at the

fam ily parties. I t isn’ t anything against your family, any o f them, but can 't you see? It just isn’ t m y element. Can’ t y ou see how a little fish would be so happy and at ease swimming around among its ow n corals and sea-weeds, and so unhappy in a perfectly nice bird’s nest? ”

“ I think you ’re talking rubbish.”She sighed hopelessly. She and B im would

have been all right alone together, anywhere: alone on a desert island, w ith food to be found and shelters o f palm leaves to be woven; alone in a northern cabin shut in b y snows. But other people separated them, and, more and more, other people seemed to fill their days; and Bim , as she had once predicted, saw her through their eyes.

I f they could get right away from family, from servants, from country club gossip, and unreturned calls, and butcher’s bills, she thought that they m ight find each other again, be lost in e a c i other utterly so that nothing could ever separate them any more.

“ Couldn’ t we go away together. B im b o?” " N o t for a w M e, I ’m too busy,” Bim

answered reasonably. “ W e’U get away for two or three weeks in the hot weather.”

“ R eally away, by ourselves?”“ W ell, we always g o to Easthampton.

M other has a cottage, and so have Lockw ood and Olive.”

“ I mean just us, alone— please—-please— ” “ W e don’ t want to seem to be avoiding

them— but i f there's any place you ’d rather go, I don ’t care, as long as there’s swimming and a good golf-course,” B im replied between enormous yawns. “ B ut you ’d have a good time there— lots o f people— dances and tffings — and it’s m ore com fortable than a hotel would be.”

She ielt like laughing out loud at herself when she thought ffiat she had half-expected Bim to want to take her o ff from the rest o f tbe world— to have her to himself, to take care o f her. She had had a romantic vision o f him, knee deep in a rushing stream catching fish for their meals, 01 spreading balsam boughs for their starlit sleep- Instead of which t h ^ would go to Easthampton, and M iss Smiley would buy the fish, and Susan would cook it. and Evans would serve it in its wreath o f parsley, while Elizabeth followed him with the sauce tartare. A nd later they would sleep, not on balsam, boughs, but between embroidered linen sheets turned back b y W innie. I t would, as B im said, be more com fortable than a h o ld ; far m ore comfortable than cooking for themselves, or being kissed all night b y ferns and wild-flowers, whose kisses leave such deep impressions. I t is inconvenient that the soul can not be content w ith com fort.

■pECAU SE a baby once was b om in Beth- D lehem, because a man once hung on a

cross under a darkened sky, wom en meet in m any places to plan tableaux and fancy tables and oyster-pie suppers; m a te tissue- paper cherry blossoms' and coconut layer- cakes; and ask w ith rising feeling who is going to clear up all the mess. Because God so loved the world that he gave his only- begotten Son, the preparations for the fair and tableaux for Saint T im othy’s-in-the- M eadows reached fever heat.

B im remained aloof, having refused t o be either a sultan or a eunuch, ” Y ou ’re lucky to be out o f it,” Francie told him on the morning o f the vehement day itself. “ Isn ’ t it a blessed miracle that Christ can’t be spoiled for one even b y the people who make such an elaborate business o f Christianity? W hat if Christ hadn’t been ccudfled, but had had to stay on earth and g o to all the church suppers and speak a t all the Ladies’ Guild meetings? H alf the funny and terrible things that happen are done in H is name.”

B im said “ M m m ,” his eyes straying to the newspaper on the breakfast table b y his plate.

“ T h ey ’re all hot and bothered about that M rs. N ichols now, because Bernard Jackson asked her to be in the tableaux, and M rs. Lambert’s just discovered that she’s a divorcee instead o f a widow, so they want to tell her

she can 't be in them. Y ou know the one I mean. She sat next you at the Hendersons’ dinner.”

B im lifted glazed eyes from“ In t Harvester Co.

In t M er M ar.In t M er M ar p f.”

Francie could almost see the bubbles coming up, as he rose slowly to the surface from the depths o f his abstraction. H er heart overflowed w ith tenderness and amusement. She had been feeling absent lately, neither happy nor unhappy, bu t far away from B im and unconcem M about him. B ut this morning she loved him, sim ply and innocently. She was happy, she didn 't know why.

“ M rs. w h o?”“ M rs. N ichols— very pretty, blonde hair

and brow n eyes. T en thousand diamond bracelets and a mauve gow n with morning- glories down the side— you remember her, B im bo.”

“ W h y d on ’t they want her in their show ?” “ D ivorced, m y child, disorcedJ The

Church doesn 't approve o f divorce. You know that just as well as I d o .”

“ This place makes m e sick! O f all the narrow, provincial—•”

H e went on for a tim e in the same strain, a favorite one tvith m any o f the inhabitants o f the little town, although one that they naturally neither believed nor allowed strangers from without to indulge in.

“ I t isn’ t the place particularly, it ’ s the Church.”

“ W ell, it ’ s a dam shame to hold such a thing against a girl like that— why, she was a peach. I don ’t believe it was her fault anyway- I t cou ldn ’t have been, she was so sort o f sweet and pretty ,” B im replied, and added; “ I remember her.”

“ Yes, darling, I was beginning t o think y ou d id .”

“ I bet it was all her husband's fault, whatever happened.”

Francie kept her opinion to herself, remembering the set o f young M rs. Niiffiols’ thin lips, bright w ith scarlet salve.

“ I f they think it ’s wrong to have her because she’s been divorced, what would they think if they knew the truth about me? W e ought to tell, B im , I hale going about under false pretences— being sly! Let’s tell,”

“ Y o u don 't hate it worse than I do, and y ou know what you can do to m ake things straight. H aven 't you gotten over being c r a ^ ? A ren ’t you ready t o stop this fool business and get married? ”

“ N o .”“ N o matter what I said, you needn’ t think

I ’m ever going to let you go,” he told her.

C U D D E N L Y remembering a happiness that some one else had given her, F rande’s

heart would grow warm toward B im ; or she w ould be filled w ith affection for him as a result o f gratitude for things having nothing to d o with him. T o-d ay she was flooded with love and happiness because the lilacs had bloom ed, every bush a m irade o f beauty. W ith a fast-beating heart she pulled down a purple duster that drenched her with fragrance and showered her with dew. H ow easy to be good, to be kind, if the lilacs were always in bloom . W hen one had said just the one word— “ lila c” — it was enough. I t was like going to heaven.

A l r e a d y in the parish rooms voices were growing shrill,

“ I fe d as lim p as sea-weed lifted out of water,” Bernard said to Francie. “ L ook at that stage covered w ith things for their old trash tables— how can I get m y background ready? L ook at the w ay tho curtain’s acting! A nd I ’ve had to talk m yself dizzy persuading Sylvia Nichols to stay in the tableaux— som ebody said something t o her, and the poor girl was terribly hurt- She was going to drop out, and I absolutely have to have her b ig Persian rug. This place makes m e sick! O f all the narrow, provincial— ”

’The gentlemen seemed to be feeling that w ay about it to-day.

■ p iM was still feeling that w ay about it LS when he and Francie reached home after the tableaux. M rs. N ichols had. after m uch persuasion, taken part, in an especially created pink and silver costum e from T ap p l. T h e other ladies who posed w ith her, and who had been sajdng to each other for the past m onth; “ M y dear, you can get exactly as good an effect w ith cheese-cloth and paper- muslin, and they com e in such lovely colors now ,” realized, gloom ily, the em pty optimism o f their words, especially poor M iss Smiley, whose glazed muslin smock and laundry-bag- likc trousers o f that shade o f pink that a negro child would choose, set o ff w ith ropes of silver Christmas-tree trimming, made her an unintentional caricature o f the love ly lady. Their poEteness had been a little pinched, and M rs. N ichols was hurt. Bernard Jackson

(Continued on page i z o )


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S E M I - A T T A C H E DA P a r r i s h ’ s N o v e l

(Conlinited from , ; ii8)

m opped his brow with relief when her tableau was over.

Bim had spent most o f the evening with her, feeling more and more how narrow and provincial every one except himself was being. T h ey had sm okeif two or three cigarets together in the deserted Infant-class room o f the Sunday School, surrounded by maps o f the H oly Land and pictures o f celebrities at different ages— M oses among the bulrushes, M oses on M ount Sinai— and Bim scolded her protectively for smoking too much, and she replied that i t didn’t matter what such a bad, dreadful woman did. There was a catch in her voice that made him pat her hand reassuringly— indeed, he m ight have com forted her even more, for her wistful face was charming above the big white fur collar o f the wTap she Pad thrown on over her costume, i f M rs. Ludlow had not com e into the room in search of the galoshes she had hidden away in a safe corner.

Francie, who had spent the free moments of the evening sitting w ith M rs. Bennet or having ice-cream with M r. and M rs. Lambert at a tremulous card-table, was depressed and tired when tliey reached home, bu t Bim was in high .spirits.

“ Lord, I ’m hungryl Isn ’ t there anything to ea t?"

“ L ook in the refrigerator.”“ Nothing here but butter-balls and

parsley.”“ Plenty o f cheese.”“ Edam or R oqu efort?”“ Jlouse-trap.” She drooped across the

kitchen table, yawning. “ Bim , did I look all right?”

“ L ovely ,” said Bim , pouring ou t some whisky. “ H aven’ t w e any soda? la sk e d y o u a week ago i f you • wouldn’t order some. N ever mind, I 'l l use plain water. L ovely . I told you so before.”

“ I know, but I wanted to hear you say so again. Y ou looked lovely, too , M r . Bennet dearie— pretty as a picture. W hen every one else is in fancy dress and you ’re not, you ought to look ou t o f things, bu t instead you just made the others look rather silly.”

Bim gave a scornful sound muffled by biscuit and cheese, bu t his expression became a trifle bland.

“ Oh, by the way, Francie” — his tone was elaborately casual— ' ‘ I think it would be nice if you called on that M rs. N ichols. She seems to he feeling rather lonely here, and she thinks you 're perfectly wonderful.”

“ Oh, she does, does she?”“ Yes, she went on about you until I felt

sort o f silly, but she’s g o t some crazy idea that you don 't like her. G o aad see her, why don ’ t you , and then w e might ask her to dinner— slic’d make a bully dinner guest She’s wliat I caE a thorough^' attractive girl, don 't y o u ?”

“ N o, I can’ t bear h er !”Then, at his astonished face, she burst into

half-hj'sterical laughter.“ Oii, B im , I didn 't mean to say that! Of

course, she’s all right- O f course, TU go to see her— I ’ll go to-m orrow. I t ’s on ly that women get so sick o f saying they think other women are attractive and pretty and charming and all tl:at, when they daii’l, just to prove they’re not jealous cats. Anri I feel so tired and plain to-night, I d on ’t want to hear how lovely any one else ia— Bim — "

“ W hy, Francie, you « « / / ”“ Oh, B im bo, tell me that you love m e !” H is arras went tight around her, and his

kisses rained com fortingly on the top o f her head- B ut his expression, as he consoled her, remained a trifle thoughtful.

OL IV E had put her nursery in the hancb of an interior-decorating friend, and many

D elft blue ducks on yellow backgrounds had resulted. Surrounded b y these, John, because he had been naughty, sat in the window-seat looking ou t at whatever there was to see. There was quite a lo t to see. H enry was raking up dead leaves. Nurse was wheeling B aby in his pram up and down the drive, and a strange dog trotted in and did a little scratching in the dahlia bed. John had not meant to b e naughty— he thought he had been singing " A u Clair de la L im e" just as well as Madem oiselle and M ary Olivia, and certainly m uch louder. B ut Mademoiselle saiil he had been making “ a m ocking noise” ; 50 he sat iu the sunny window and looked with interest at an enehanting world, while M ary Olivia, who had been good, reluctantly practised “ W altz o f tho R aindrops" on the school-roora piano.

John, forgetting that hg was being punished, lowered himself from the window-seat, and trotted across tho room to the shelf where his own treasures were kept. Mademoiselle, too, had forgotten, and beyond an automatic “ Tieiisl Qii’ esi que c'est que Iu fa it maiit- lenanl, J o lm ?” paid no attention to him. Sitting down on the floor, he looked anxiously in to a box that had once held chocolates, but now contained a mummied cocoon, an assortm ent o f leaves and grass, and a lum p o f sugar;

then, finding that the cocoon had not \*ct changed into the radiant butterfly that he was momentarily expecting, he replaced the perforated lid, and began to sing a loud and dream y song, pausing from time to tim e to look into his box. Neither he nor Mari- Olivia, now briskly playing over and over the easiest part o f her waltz, paid the slightest attention to the other’s music, nor to the ear- splitting song o f Peter Pan, the canary, stilted to competition.

“ Mercy, children! Is anybody b o n g m urdered?” Olive cried, appearing in the doorway with Francie. “ Mademoiselle, it's time M ary Olivia was dressing for dandng- school— she can wear her blue silk smock— and M ary Olivia, you are not to be rough this afternoon. M other fe lt very bad ly when M iss Adrianna told her that you were the roughest little girl in the whole dass, and that little D eL on g Johnson cried when he had to dance with you . H ow do you suppose M other would feel if the gentlemen cried when they had to dance with her?"

“ Oh, D eLong Johruon’s just a co '-b a b y sissy. I dance o n his fee t !” M a ty Olivia proclaimed boastfully.

“ Oh, M other, can 't I g o t o dancing- school?” begged John, carried away b y this picture ot pleasure. “ I 'll dance on DeLong Johnson’s feet, too ! M other, can’ t I? Can’ t I ? ”

“ N o, John, you silly little hoy , you ’re too little,” said M ary Olivia officiourfy; and his mother added:

“ N o , darling, you b e a good b oy and amuse -Aunt Francie ■while M other does a little telephoning.”

“ .All right, w e can look at m y cocoon hatch,” John agreed amiably.

“ Oh, A unt Francie, isn’ t he a fu n n y little b o y ? ” M ary Olivia whispered lo u d ^ and tickliiigly. “ H e alwajrs thinks things ate going to hatch. H e took an egg t o bed with him one night because he thought it would be a little pet chickie in the morning, but it just broke, d idn 't it, M adem oiselle?”

“ Ah, qui, i l ctait un irrai plat de dejeuner!'' replied Mademoiselle w ith a shrill crackle o f laughter. “ E h Hen, M ary Olivia, vile, itVc/ M arche sans fa ire ni une n i deux! A u ’roir, Madame.” A nd M ary Olivia was led away t o be adorned for the unhappy DelxDng Johnson and other hardly less apprehensive young gentlemen.

“ See m y cocoon ,” said John to Francie. H e showed it to her gravely. “ Soon it will be fl>-able.” Suddenly he thrust the box into her hands. “ Y o u take it— it ’s for you . Soon it will be a flyable butterfly, and it's for you, it ’ s a present!”

ILJTS lip trembled, for already the flyable L J. butterfly wa.s a reality t o him— a loving little butterfly that would sit on his finger and learn to d o tricks— but it was a long time before she could persuade the generous little heart to take back its gift— or at least to take care o f it for her, on the ground that she knew nothing about the care and training o f cocoons.

She loved John m ore than she could say, and so did Bim . She thought o f the day when, going into the village confectioner’ s—■ “ Y e Colonial Sweete Shoppe” — she had discovered the two together having ice-cream at one o f the m arble-topped tables. Olive was away, and Bim had kidnaped John. T he little b o y ’s cheeks were scarlet with excitement, his eyes shone w ith solemn rapture behind his big spectacles. W hen the woman who waited o n them said: “ W ell, good-by, young gentleman, com e again,” he had reached up a sticky little hand, and replied; “ Yes, I w ill, I had a lovely time, t l i n k you , and you com o and see me.”

“ A’ou surely have one cute little b o y ,” the gratified waitress to ld Francie and Bim. M iss K atie, who had been for ever so long behind the glass case o f chocolates and Saint Patrick 's D ay favors and hand-painted satin boxes that no one thought o f buying, and who was a sort o f “ W h o ’s W h o ” o f the little town, said afterwards that she had hardly been able to keep her face straight when H azel said that, what with M rs. Arthur Bennet’s being just a bride!

“ I f John really was ours,” Francie thought afterwards. “ I f w e did have a little b oy— ” It seemed to her that she and B im m ust be dose, d ose to each other then, Perhaps the test o f their life together wasn’ t fair unless they had a child.

“ Bim , please let's have a baby.”“ Y ou mean you ’re ready to marry m e?” “ N o — but we’d know better whether we

want to be married— we’d belong to each other m ore truly, I ’m sure w e w ou ld !”

’ ’ D on ’ t we belong to each other now? ” “ Oh, I don 't know— I d on 't k now !”“ W hat would becom e o f a child if finally

you wouldn’t m arry me? It 's all very pretty, but j 'o u 'v e got to be practical, F rande.”

'T 'H E first year o f their life together was -*• nearly over, and F rande's heart grew

heavier and heavier as time went on (Conlinued on page 123}


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 121C an d y jafs and candlesticks; salad plates and sherbet glasses; French dressing bottles and finger bowls; footed tumblers; slender stemware of every sort—many, many things w ith the fascination and shining glory of fine glassware. . . . Each splendid single piece of Fostoria is areal and lasting expression of beauty. Glass has mystery and remote magic—a fragile power to mirror many lights and multiply colors. . . . Your preference may be for the scintillating loveliness of iridescent crystal; for the richness of gold-encrusted ware; for the simplicity of the deep-etched hand-blown glass. Fine glassware is always good form and much favored, especially in colors, by the present fashions in table setting. Collect a set of Fostoria, adding from time to time new pieces in the pattern you choose. Each piece is a lovely g ift in itself. The Fostoria Glass Company, Moundsville, W. Va.

Com pot I in thi V irg in ia d ijiin , a pattern appealing in its quiet aristocracy o f design. Every piece o f F o s to r ia g la s s w a r e l e a v e s ou r factory bearing tbis brow n a n d w h ile label.



lib

Amenca DeUnde Internalienal Polo Cup AgAiB»c England A i

M eidow Brook Club 1914

M s s s s s r o n t h e

fO B ALL OCCASIONS

S U P E R - S T Y L E D C R EA TIO N S

F E A T U R E D IN B E S T STO R E S

SOLD BY NAME NOT BY LABEL

O oTfv (STumeV tPnoivo ir//c$o 1

iNDtVtDUAUiy^

^ East Street Xere'york'WhoUsoU h n l y

Royal Box. Hurlinghajn, England 1909 W hen America W on The

iDCematiooal Polo Cup

A n n e P ar t i s h ’ s Nov e l (Continued from page is o )

S E M I - A T T A C H E D

They had spent B im ’s holidays with M rs. Bennet at Easthampton— a dragging month during which Francie had feit completely numb. H er face ached w ith the pleasant expression she kept upon it. B im , spending his days on the golf-course, was delighted with her, and M rs. Bcm iet, after she recovered from F rande's appearance (never repeated) in the one-piece bathing suit she had worn in France, cam e nearer to approving o f her than she ever had before.

In the first hysterical relief o f being at home again, she felt she would b e happy all the rest o f her life. Just the luxury o f being alone; o f playing the piano without having Harriet Smiley appear wreathed in apologetic smiles; “ Oh, I ’m so sorry, lady-love— your music's sim ply lovely, bu t Coasin Em ily is taking a nap just tight now— of lying in the garden doing nothing, w ith the yeEqw autumn sunshine warm upon her, without any danger o f M rs. Bennet’s looking disapproving. H ow could any one who was aUowed to be alone be anytliing but happy?

Tliis passion for being b y herself was new to her. She had always been the most friendly o f mortals, interested in every one she m et. B ut she had never been thrown exclusively w ith people like B im ’s friends before. She had known artists, diplomats, and humble people. She had loved all sorts, from Iv y , the little cockney “ general” in London, w ith smuts on her apple cheeks, and her mind fuE o f duchesses' divorces and “ shocking murders,” to Kate H oliday, the glorious old actress traUing toward death so gallantly in her floating draperies and V ictorian sauce-boat hats, with romance around her like a perfume. B ut now Francie felt that she was in tbe midst o f a game whose rules she did not know.

One rule was that you m ust be lively all the lime. “ Pep,” they called it. “ Y ou have to have p ep !” Y o u m ust go everywhere, y o u mustn’t drop out for a moment. Luncheons, teas, dinners, picnics— you must go to them all, o r people would think you weren’ t being asked. I f you stayed at home, they thought y o u were queer. Soon they slopped asking you at aU,

Y o u m ust have “ pep.”Y o u must d o and say what the rest o f yoiur

“ crow d” did and said.Y o u must never, never, never let any one

think that you were a “ highbrow.”For B im 's sake Francie tried lo remember

the rules. B ut m ore and m ore she grew to depend on the reEef o f bemg alone.

W hen she and B im first began to Eve together, she was bitterly disappointed to find that he did not intend to d o things with her on the Saturdays and Sundays that she had expected to bring them so d ose together. H e really would have Eked an occasional scramhio w ith her along the brook through the woods, or a cross-country walk when the leaves were turning red; bu t as he explained to her. the other m en never did such things with their wives, and they would think he was spoony, or, stiU worse, hen-pecked. And he was one o f a regular foursome— they'd think it was funny E he le t them down. So he went on, justifying himself, uneasy.

“ W hat are you going to d o to-day, Fran- d e? ”

“ Oh, I don ’ t know— fool around. I 'E be all right.”

“ W h y don’t you get some o f the girls and g o out to the d u b for tea? ” b e would suggest anxiously: o r : “ W h y don’t you g o over to O E vc's?” H e wanted to b e able to think o f her happy and occupied. H ang it, all the other wom en found things t o d o when their husbands were busy.

Fr a n c i e , also, found things to do. Bim, in teaching her to depend upon herself for

companionship, taught her that he would never be entirely necessary t o her ^ a in .

She spent hours in her garden in the late autum n days o f gold and crystal, sometimes trying to read large books about politics and world affahs, in order that her m ind could better m eet B im ’s; oftener id ly watching the smaE birds the size and color o f dead leaves that came for crumbs when she was having tea out-of-doors; or on dewy mornings looking at the crystal trimmings on grass and cobwebs, and the tiny drops, as round as gazing-giobes, held o n smaU hairy leaves. T h e next-door garden was full o f sunset- tinted single dahlias now, or roses whose faintly flushed petals were Eke dusters of fragile sea-sheUs, and o f purple petunias w ith a bloom o f sEver on theh dark velvet; and among them M rs. Jackson darted, beheading dead flowers, tying bits o f string around fine spedm ens t o be saved for seed (which Bernard often dreamily gathered within the hour) o r snipping through succulent stalks as she filled the basket for the A ltar Guild o f Saint T im oth y ’s, whUe she shouted across the hedge to Francie.

A nd Frande’s m usic was com ing to mean m ore and m ore to her. She spent hours at her piano, finding the refreshment and release of

hard and beloved work. She longed to be under the direction of some good teacher. I f the tim e should com e when Bim no longer wanted her, she thought, how she would study!

I t was not long before she began to wonder, with mingled emotions, whether that time was not on its way.

IT W A S at a luncheon at Carolyn Banning’s that Francie first reaEzed people were

talking about .Sylvia N ichols and B un. I t was the usual luncheon; the sunset roses from M r. M cG utk ’s shop (you could have you r choice at this time o f the year o f those or b ig white and y d lo w chrysanthemums that looked like cole-slaw); the filet lace doEies; and MElie passing Y e Colonial Sweete Shoppe's most expensive offering, frozen pudding containing marraits glaces. One usual top ic o f conversation, the state o f affairs between their hostess and N orry Coleman, could not be indulged in ; bu t Francie found that another was for the m om ent taking its place.

W ith an interested face ttirned toward mild M rs. Evans, she was indulging in the perilous amusement o f listening to snatches o f other conversations while her neighbor talked:

“ Spinach, m y dear, a great b ig dish at a time, and cereal, o f course, and then scraped carrot— it ’s the funniest thing how B etty Jr. loves scraped carrot!” (This was what M rs. Evans was saying.) “ I wish you could see her try to feed herself— oh, MiUie, you mustn’t tem pt m e w ith those wonderful gooey cakes, I oughtn’t to look at another one, I ’m getting so fat— well, as I was saying, she simply adores to feed herscE, but you can imagine where m ost o f her din-din lands— face and bib— ”

“ I ’m going to the country club for tea this afternoon w ith Sylvia N ichols.” I t was the girl who was visiting the Wainwrights, talking to R uth HaU on the other side o f the table. “ I don ’t want to go, and she doesn 't want me, bu t having detested each other at Farmington, you know how it is! Tell m e about her new man— 1 hear she’s vam ped a perfect wonder, Barret, o r something Eke that— no, wait a minute— Bennet— ”

There was a sudden agitated m urm ur from R uth. Francie, feeling rather dizzy, began to talk hard and fast to M rs. Eyons, bu t she was conscious o f the stranger’s eyes upon her, and her ow n m et them a moment later. T h e other girl was Eke a rather pretty and very dressy monkey— the effect added to b y a hat entirely made o f green leaves, so her little m onkey face looked as it i t were peeping from a tree. The bright little eyes gleamed w ith m ischief and curiosity as they scrutinized the woman to whom Sylvia ’s new man belonged.

T ^ A L K I N G home through the haze o f ■ t autumn bonfire smoke, Francie pieced

tc^ethec the bits, meaningless in themselves, like the half an eye or the scrap ot foliage on pieces o f a dissected puzzle, lha t y e t gave, when properly placed, the whole picture.

A fter the Arabian pageant in the spring, • Bim had sung M rs. N ichols' praises loud and long. So pretty— so polite— so unhappy. Francie had naturally longed to tweak the lady ’s nose, but instead she had asked her to dinner, and later they had dined w ith her. Sylvia had cultivated Francie assiduously. W ouldn’t M rs. Bennet m otor in to N ew Y ork with her? W ell, if she couldn’ t d o that, wouldn’t she m eet her for lunch at P ierre’s? M rs, Bennet had such perfect taste, wouldn’ t she com e to tea and tell Sylvia whether the plain green glazed chintz o r the one with the calla lEy pattern would be better for the morning-room? Some one bad given her tickets site couldn’t use for Rachm aninoff’ s concert at Carnegie H all, and she knew how musical M rs, Bennet was— wouldn’t she make Sylvia happy by taking them?

Brook trout on beds o f fern, large sections of coral-pink salmon, and lim p satin-breasted wild ducks, presents to M rs. N ichols from admiring gentlemen, were sent along to 7 Peachtree Lane w ith charming little notes. Francie furiously responded to these offerings with baskets o f crab-apples and bunches of flowers given her by M rs- Jackson. T ry as she would t o remain aloof, the other woman for a time managed to present an impression o f intimacy.

Bim had spoken once or twice o f Sylvia Nichols com ing to consult him about some investments. Once he had taken her to lunch, and had told Francie about it, carefully careless. Once he had taken her to lunch, and had not told Francie, bu t Olive had seen them, and had been playful about it a few days later at Sunday dinner at “ T h e .H em - locks.” Francie, looking up from her struggle with Yorkshire pudding and tough roast beef to laugh politely a t Olive’s facetious, “ Oh, what i know about y o u !” had been startled b y the red anger o f Bim ’s face.

O Y L V IA had spent the summer a t East- ham pton with her aunt, M rs. Payne, and

M rs. Bennet wrote to M rs. H um phrey: (C ontinued o n page i s 4)


J o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4123

An irresistible complexion

— this new way

H ere is the secret fa m ou s beauties o f E urope know . N ow being a d op ted a ll ov er A m erica

Yo u , too, may have an irresistible complexion— a lovely skin that all admire. A face that is never shiny—without excessive per'

spiration. A skin which glows with health and cleanliness. Now , too, a personal daintiness never known before.

You have seen the matchless complexions of the women o f Paris— o f Vienna— o f Madrid. Yet they use makc'up lavishly at times. But it never seems to be ma\e-up! Their secret makes it natural. A nd there are no ill effects to the complexion.

Ten years ago the im- p o rta tio n s o f E au de Cologne— No- 4 were cut offbythew ar. Today, for the first time, it may be had again in better Amer' ican shops. It is the secret to the new w ay of making up. The w ay long known to Continental beauties.A way entirely new to American women.

Eaude Cologne—No 4 improves whatever cosmetics you now are using.It gives a morepleasingnut' ural effect. It is not what is known as “cologne.” It is a distinct, an exclusive special toilet water. None other can equal it, none imitate it, except in name.

By its aid thousands have come to know fresher, daintier complexions. More healthy, vigorous skin.No large, unsightly pores, no excessive perspiration. Thecontinueduse o f Eau de Cologne— No. 4 prevents these things.

There are a thousand intimate uses Continental women find for Eau de Cologne—No. 4- Seek it on distinguished dressing tables, in the boudoirs of beauties. N ot only is it used as an

astringent, as a skin stimulant— Eau de Cologne — No. 4 is a personal deodorant. In the bath it is a stimulating restorative. It prevents perspiration, closes pores, tiius preventing shiny nose or face. •

N o w again, Eau de Cologne— N o. 4 is available in America. A t better d rug and department stores everywhere. Insist, though, that you get the genuine— the only original. Look for the bottle and carton as illustrated. None other is the genuine, as made by Johann Maria Farina.

Go, today, and get Eau de Cologne— ^No.4. A ft^ a few days' use you will never be without it again.

Try this new make-up secretHere is wKac foreign beauties chink 1$ the petfecc foundation foe tnakc'up:

First, the usual application o f cold cceam. A fter removing it as usual, pat Eau de Cologne—No. 4 lightly over the face and allow CO evaporate. This removes surplus cream, closes pores, freshens and tightens che skin, keeping it firm. It gives the com plexion a smooth, fine texture. Ideal for even, efiectlve make-up.

M o s t im p otC an t, E n u d e C olog n e prevents shine—posi» ^ v e W — w h e n ch e first fceshness o f make-up wears off.

^ ^HE name Eau de Cologne is so fa-. . mous that many do not realUethat

it exclusively applies to the cosmetic toilet water made, since 1709 by the family o f Johann Maria Farina. Importations have just been resumed after 10 years when the war prevented its manufacture.

For m ore chan 200 years this famous Ms- metic has been the choice o f world s loyolty. From among the many royal warrants grantee Eau de Cologne, the following ate a few most represcntscive •.

ED W AR D V II, King o f England EMPEROR NAPOLEON 111 LEOPOLD 1 . K lngofBelgium ALPHONS X l l . King o f Spain LOUIS I, King o f Portugal GEORGE I. King o f Greece THE TENNO O F JAPAN CHRISTIAN V III, King o f Denmark EMPEROR FRANCIS JOSEPH I PEDRO IL Emperor o f Brazil CHARLES 1 . K ingofR oum ania

Genuine Eau de Cologne is sold only in the package as itlusrraced. A c better shops everywhere. Inshc o n the original and genuine.

2 -ounce bottle, 65c; 4-ounce, $1.25;8 -ounce, $2.00

T h e on ly original com es in this bottle and carton

Exclusive Sales Agents H A R O L D F, R ITC H IE 6? C O ., Inc., 171 Madison Ave., New York City SERVICE LABORATORIES. INC.. CHICAGO. Sols Importers and Distributors for the V S. A .

PR IC E J222 I


W h p r p - I a n t p r n c ^ q l p a m • ■ • ■ a n d

d r a q o n <5 • c a n t e r

“Colors born o f sunshine,” yes! One understands that in these Sports Hats, designed and made in play-loving California.

But whence that subtle touch o f the Orient—those color notes that one associates with Mandarin Coats and ancient Chinese Shawls?

The M eadowbrook artist- ’ designers refledt their surround

ings. A nd San Francisco's famous “Chinatown" (not Grant Avenue, but the colorful bypaths) has inspired many a delicate refinement in coloring and design.

Do not fail to see the new Summer Meadowbrooks — in Suede Felts, Summer-weight Velours, Knotted Silk and Narrow Belting Ribbon. A t those stores where you would expedt to find the best.

7 /C otifornia

SPORTS HATSTown and Countiy

S im o n M il l i n e r y C o .Meadvwbrook BuHdmg,q%^ Market Street

San FraaciicoE A 6 T E 8 N S A L E S O F F IC E

L o u is S t r a u s s f s ’ S onI 5 fV eii 381,4 Street, N em Tork City

S E M I - A T T A C H E DA n n e P a r r i s h ’ s Nov e l

{CoiUinucd from page 123)


“ — her aunt is M rs. Harrison Payne (no relation to the fast Charlie Paynes) who was Henrietta liutherford, one o f m y oldest friends, and dear old B ishop Shuttleworth, who is here too, is M rs. N ichols’ m other’s uncle, so y o u see, Susy. I feel that our good M rs. Lambert was « » pen ghU in her condemnation o f M rs. N . D o not think I am condoning divorce— that, I need not tell you,I could never do. for nothing can make that anything but sinful and wrong— but Henrietta has told me all the circumstances. Mrs. Nichols was on ly a child, and had a very sad time, and after all i f a Bishop has no fault to find w ith her, i t docs seem a shade presumptuous in a simple rector and his wife to judge her sans chaHUj n ’est ce pas, nwn amie9 It has been a great jo y to see so m uch of dear Henrietta, in spite o f the fact that she is just a little tiresome this year (strictly entre nous, m y Susy) about her fam ous ‘ pink and mauve garden’ since it has been written up for Country L ife! Y o u would think that no one had ever had a garden before! Y ou might just drop a hint to the Lamberts apropos of what I have told you about little hlrs. Nichols— ”

Sylvia had been charming to Mrs. Bennet and Olive. She fried to be charming to Frande, but m et with little encouragement. Frande admitted to herself that Sylvia was doing nothing more unforgivable than behaving beautifully: bu t that is the very thing that is sometimes hardest to forgive.

B im saw a groat deal o f Sylvia at East- hampton, for. as he explained, when a girl asks you to give her a few hints about her golf, you can ’t very well say you w on’t. Besides, she was always perfectly sweet about wanting Francie to com e too, when they started o ff for an afternoon o n the links.

B im also urged Frande, and twice she walked around with them— the second time so that no one should guess how miserable the the first tim e had made her. She had only herself t o blam e for the loneliness that followed.

It was toward the end o f the m onth at Easthampton that B im stopped urging Frande to be friends w ith Sylvia.

Several days after Carolyn Banning’s luncheon, Francie, planting crocus bulbs in her little lawn, felt for a handkerchief in the pocket o f the sweater she wore. T he handkerchief was not there, but something else was. She drew out a sheet o f folded paper, on which was written in pencil:

“ Land o f Couuterpane “ Midnight

“ This is just ‘ G ood N ight,’ dear Playfellow, and ‘ Sweet Dreams,’ and a little thank you for our wonderful talk to-night. I on ly need

{T o be continued in

to d ose m y eyes to see again the moon-path on the water, and w e tw o talking and dreaming and longing to follow it into the Beautiful R ight o f Things. There is something about your ow n courage that bids me work and play and d o m y little best, sure that when the sorrow o f Ufe is too heavy for me, and I run to you with these foolish little thoughts of mine, you will hold out your hands in welcom e. Somehow 1 always know you— understand!

“ G ood night,“ From

“ M e ’ ’

For a m oment Francie was bewildered. Then, again, the bits o f the puszle began to fall into place. She always wore any sweater that she could lay Itands on, indiscriminately, and this tim e she had put on one o f Bim ’s. H e had not worn it since Easthampton— there was sand still in the pockets.

Francie ran in to the house and burrowed in her desk. Following an eruption o f bills, unanswered letters, calling cards, and seed catalogues, a sheet o f pale gray Italian paper was disclosed, elaborately rough-edged, and bearing across one com er a silver “ Sylvia."

“ October tlie twelfthDear M rs. Bennet:

“ W on’t you and you r husband dine witb me next Tuesday at a quarter before eight— "

The handwriting left no doubt as to the identity o f “ M e.”

Francie stood staring a t the tw o notes.

“ Somehow I always know you— understand!

“ G ood night,“ From

“ M e.”

“ H oping to SCO you both on Tuesday, I am, as ever,

“ M ost cordially,“ Sylvia N ichols.”

M ingled feeling surged through her— relief at the thought that escape was now possible, bu t a relief that surprised her by Its faintness: far stronger, the passionate desire to protect B im , and the annoyance with him for being taken in by such a type.

“ Land ot C ounterpane” — "th e Beautiful • R ight o f T h ings” — ! H ow could he stand it? A nd B im ’s “ ow n courage” — what was Bim being brave about? A bout herself, perhaps?

■‘ I ’m jealous,” she said aloud in an incredulous voice. “ I 'm jealou.s!” There was a smarting in her nose, her m outh dragged dow n iuto a rigid crescent, and hot tears poured down her cheeks.

the October issue)

T 0 M Y F R I E N D

B y L o rn a V a le n t in e M a llin so n

If, some day, 1 should give you all, My lips, my eyes, my hair—

Such things alone are doomed to pall- I wonder if you’d care

To search deep down within my heart Or try to know my mind;

Perhaps you’d only see a part Of what you hoped to find. ■

Still maybe you know what is best—■

Just kiss my eyes and hair.And do not search more closely lest

You love me unaware.


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4125

HAUGHTY YOU N G LADY {to her dog): DOESN'T IT BEAT ALL, GIN-GIN. HOW CARELESS MEN CAN BEABOUT SOME THINGS?

[Listerine used as a mouth wash quickly overcomes Halitosis {unpleasant breath)


126

flaiwx take its course /

TH A T s o u v e n irs a re le ft b e h in d b y Sum m er h o lid a y s ! T h e fre c k le s ! T h e p a rc h e d an d

t e n d e r s k in , n o t to m e n tio n th e s a u c y n o s e s , a l l s u n b u r n e d a n d q u ic k to s h in e . S o m e th in g m u s t be d o n e a b o u t it , r e a lly !

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L U X U R I O U S , S T R A N G E N E W F U R S

van C a m p e n S t e w a r t ’ s A r t i c l e

{Concluded Jrom page 77)

finished with a scantily flaring flounce over a narrow black underskirt, a straight lube of cream lace with attached sectional flounces resulting in a tunic effect— a Jenny model this, trimmed w ith tw in bands o f narrow gold

■ galou— and a rather close-fitting corsage of white crdpc w ith a flaring floimce o f leoparcl- skin attached at the hip, w ith the effect o f a tunic over the uarrow white crepe underskirt. This also was a Jenny model.

Slender, beltless, and extending to within four inches o f the edge o f the underskirt, the tunic was exceedingly smart at the races. M any fringed frocks were worn also— R (gine Fiory appearing one d ay in a Callot frock o f beige-brown crepe knotted with strands o f silk, the skirt from the hips down and the lower part o f the wide sleeves literally dripping with silk fringe. Another day she wore a similar frock all in violet— violet crepe fringed with silk.

M any fringed frocks are seen about just now both for day and evening wear. Silk fringes are worn for day, but for evening the fringes m ay be o f silk, plain or shaded, or o f beads, the strands stringing loose o r looped. Some frocks are trimm ed with bands o f looped fringes such as that w orn b y the Princesse o f Kapurtbala, or the knotted-in, all-over fringe m ay b e m ade o f beads, shaded and lo o p r f. Other fringes are o f tinted ostrich, shaded.

S t r a i g h t L i n e s

C H .A D E D cr$pc frocks, shaded fringes, and ^ even shaded furs will be smart for autumn. Frocks o f palest beige crepe are shaded to a rich worm brow n at the skirt edge. There are a lsoshadedfrocksin cyclamen, green, rose, and yellowcr&pe, while R eboux shows m any shaded effects in hats and Agnes has sponsored the shaded felt hat for months.

Black and white was exceedingly smart at the races, not on ly in the black and white satin tunic costumes, bu t in other frocks as well— and particularly in clonks. LitersJly dozens ot black satin cloaks appeared at the Grand Steeplechase— straight slender cloaks collared usually with ermine.

Everywhere the silhouette was straight with oniy a very few frocks clinging closely to the figure at the waist-line and only a very few showing indications o f the Directoire. One o f the latter was worn a t the Prix dcs Drags by the M arquise de Sommi-Piccenardi —a bright green cloth frock, Directoire in style, w ith white muslin collar and cuffs.

T he Opera was decorated w ith gorgeous Spanish shawls on the night o f the Bal <lu Grand Prix— the guests all wearing gay embroidered shawls which they draped over the front o f the loges as they d o in the great bull-ring at Seville. I f a ll the shawls had been so draped, however, some of the women present would have been literally en chemise— m any o f the shawls being worn as frocks, firm ly pinned or sewn onto their wearers, resulting in gay fringed costumes.

M a n v F r i n g e d F r o c k s

'T 'H E S E wore not tho only fringed frocks seenthat night at the Opera, where not all o f the

women were in costum e. There were a number o f slender all-wbite frodcs trimmed w ith white silk or crystal fringe and embroidered with crystal, the fringes dripping from the hips, M rs. Thom as M arcoe R obertson wore a white frock w ith a red shawl embroidered svith white.

N ora Bayes wore a blue and white embroidered shawl. M rs, L ydig H o y t was striking in a black taffeta period frock with a fa ll red velvet head-dress draped with a black lace mantilla. Lady A bdy, t ^ in g part in the spectacle, was picturesque in Indian dress with a wonderful bonnet o f paradise plumes.

T he M arquise Casati impersonated the Comtesse de Castiglione, the one-time rival of the fair Eugenie, in a wonderful white ivnd gold costume, and the Duchess o f Marlborough w ore a while frock veiled with black lace with red roses in her Iiair.

Embroidered w ith beads and paiUettes are m an y o f the frocks worn at the R i tz. Madame Jacques Balsan wore a few nights ago a green frock— it m ight have been m elon green— of closely plaited crdpe with a corsage o f green beads and paillettes. T he same night Mrs, Jean N ash wore an entire irock o f the same color, beaded— a straight frock with narrow embroidered panels swinging out from below the hips.

M a n y very am ple frocks of light metal brocades are worn, the metal threads being woven w ith pastel colors. Straight frocks of w hite satin are trimm ed with bands o f green or other colored em broidery, the apron fronts elaborately embroidered. T he Marquise de Fuente-Hermosa wears a straight embroidered frock w ith a design in diam ond plaid on the comage and a broken zigzag design on the skirt— the em broidery being done in green and rose and crystal beads and paillettes.

A frock o f delicate white velvet was worn recently at dinner b y the Princesse Sixte de Bourbon-Parm e. T h e little Princesse o f K apurtbala wore a straight frock o f silver cloth girdled with ru by beads and flounced deeply with ruby ostrich.

K ceping time with the tiniest o f gold-shod feet to the jazz m usic was a slender little Indian princesse in a wonderful tndian costum e o f gold and white brocade— a gold- bordered corner o f the brocade being thrown over her dusky hair. H er dark o v d face was exquisitely lovely and wings o f diamonds spreading from a central jew el were clasped across her forehead.

T h e R i t z D i n n e r D a n c e s

T ^ I T I I four o r five hundred guests dining ' ' and dancing, the R itz dinner-dances are a

perfect pageant o f color— frocks o f silver and gold , o f lace and diam ond embroidery, of pastel-tinted mousseline, frocks o f v iv id green, red, yellow, and violet. M any women wear white frocks dripping with crystal fringe and glittering with crystal and silver cmhroideiy. Others wear brocades, black satin, or black tulie embroidered w ith silver. T he silhouette is slender and the waist-line is low or undefined. W onderful jewels are worn— real o r false— pearls, diamonds, and emeralds. .Alraostno other gems are seen except that the Indian princesses— and how lovely they are, these dark-eyed ladies o f the East-^-tisually wear m any rubies, set in beautifully wrought gold.

T he straight silhouette will continue smart for autumn, w ith m uch o f the tunic, the straight, slender, beltless frock , and something doubtless o f the cloche— the slender beltless slip which “ bells” ever so slightly from the hip.

W e shall see something o f the Directoire, straight frocks flaring from the knee, and some drapery suggesting the simplest o f Greek robes, bu t m ore than all we shall see the tunic in aU its variations and in all fabrics- Tunics of lace over skirts o f satin, tunics o f mousseline, o f embroidery, o f plaid and printed stuffs— tucked tunics, ruffled tunics, flaring tunics and tubes o f velvet o r metal stuffs.

There will be m any black and white combinations. m uch red, some dork green, light brown, light beige, and light gray and violet. Diam ond plaids will continue smart, and there will be m uch black satin, black velvet, black cloth, and other black stuffs, trimmed smartly with reddish furs, ermine, or tlie new gray chinchilla-Iikc fur which is described elsewhere in these pages.

In ihe October issue, next month, Harper’s Bazar is planning lo offer ihe most complete review 0} the Paris Fall Openings that vie have ever given Baron de Meyer, van Campen Stewart and one or two editors sent especially from New York are to report the fall mode as revealed in the great Paris houses. I f you are interested in fashion, beg, borrow, buy or steal a copy of ihe October Harper’s Bazar.Ayuntamiento de Madrid

f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4127

[ A A W H Y A F A M O U S D A N C E R

A L W A Y S C H O O S E S T H E

S A M E SI LK

Miles o f exhibition dancing in the same pair o f sheer silk stockings

H o u r after hour o f exhibition dancing— miles covered by

her twinkling feet— hundreds of intricate steps performed. T hata pair o f the cobwebby stockings

Irene Castle demanded should withstand eight evenings o f this uncompromising test— she never dreamed o f it! But when Irene Castle bought Corticelli stockings in extra sheer N o. 308— they did just that!

Y ears ago Corticelli first won its reputation for the evenness, lustre and elasticity o f its spool silk.

Clear and shimmering after innumerable washings, the same silk ip Corticelli stockings keeps its fresh look until the last day you wear them. And they keep their shape as well— Corticelli stockings are carefully made to fit the leg and ankle.

And color! Corticelli has three special new shades this fall, M andarin, Rosewood and Nude.

T h e fashionable browns are found in Corticelli’ s Beaver,

Sandalwood and Mandalay, and the new greys in N ickel, Stone and Chinchilla. T h e latest evening shades are Daybreak, Cherub, Maple Cream, Silver and Peach.

And youwill find exactly the weight and style you want, too— N o. 3 1 9 is a sheer stocking, N o. 322 is another sheer stocking. N o. 3 1 0 is medium sheer, N o. 324 is a medium weight stocking,No. 347 is the one“ service” silk hose o f the country, and for evening a stocking Paris is wearing is called Corticelli Bas de tulle N o. 1 4 1 .

A special offerW h e n y o u b u y s to ck in g s , w h a t are y o u m ost

co n ce rn e d w ith ? W h a t , i f a n y , is y o u r critic ism o f s ilk s to ck in g s ? L e t us he lp y o u w ith y o u r particu lar s ilk h os ie ry p rob lem I C h eck the item s in w h ich y o u are m o st interested o n tb e c o u p o n a n d w e w il l send y o u a b o o k le t that w ill h e lp y o u so lv e the p rob lem s T h e C o rt ic e lli S ilk C o m p a n y , 325 N o n o tu ck S treet, F lo re n c e , M assachusetts.

T H E C O R TIC E LLI S IL K C O M PA N Y ,32s N o n o tu c k S t . , F lo re n ce , M ass-

P lease sen d m e , free o f ch arge , the C ortice lli H o s ie r y b o o k le t , ind ica ted b y the sub jects ch e ck e d :

In buying stockings I a m p r i m a rily in teres ted in

tlie ir c o lo r □their sheen □th eir serv ice • dtheir fit . . □

IJ in d th a t in n u ea rin g silk stockings, fr eq u en tly

runs c o m e . . . □the seam s split . - □h o le s c o m e a b o v e h e e l . □a fu z z y lo o k co m e s a fter a

fe w w ashings . . . □

Name..................................................

A d d ie s s ..............................................................

C ity ......................................................................

S tate ....................................................................

t K H O S I E R Y


128

HARTMANN T H A T P H O E N I X , M E M O R YF . B r i t t e n A u s t i n ’ s S t o r y

( Cofilviiicd from page Si)

H A R P E R ' S B A Z A R

y

dAccept this booklet •with our compliments

“Bon Voyage" is part of our regular service to over half a million users of Hartmann Wardrobe Trunks. It contains valuable suggestions on clothes selection and arrangement.

It will, we believe, give even the most experienced travelers suggestions which will add to their enjoyment of the extended journey or short business and pleasure trips. To know and to take advantage of these suggestions will insure a more care-free journey.

This booklet is well illustrated, showing just what to do and exactly how to do it. Ask any Hartmann dealer for a copy of “Bon Voyage”— or fill out and send us the request below.

H artm ann T run k Company, ‘Racine, IVisconsinM . L a n <.m u i r M a n u p a c t u r i k o C o m t a n y . L m i T S U i T o r o n t o

I ,ie«N sed C a n ad ia n A tn n n / actn rtrs

J . B . B r o o k s A C o m p a n y . L i m i t b l >. G iK M iN C H A M E n g l a n dI H s s r i t u t w s . f o r G rea t H r ie t tft

-----------Request fo r “ BON VOYAGE” ________H A R T M A N N T R U N K C O M P A N Y , Racine, Wisconsin.

Gentlemen: W ithout eblceation, pka$e send me a cop^ o f your booklet, ‘ Bon Voyage.N a m e ........................................................................................................Street.......................... .................................................... .......................

City.............................

B B b U B B X H B H A R T M A N K R E D Z S O N T H E T R U N K Y O U B U Y

caiiuou smoke of Napoleon rolled over the obliterated eighteenth century.

B ut to-night, as we crossed the wide, dim ly lit space ol the Campc San Stefano, the chant of voices in rhythm ic unison echoed from one of the dark little streets and suddenly there issued into the square a little procession of white-clad Pierrots, dancing and leaping as they went, singing a w ild incomprehensible song to the strumming of guitars, with a little white Pierrot posturing and turning somersaults at their head. They passed across the Campo and disappeared. I said nothing, my breath caught in a curious spasm of emotion at this spectral evocation of the past. •And Antony said nothing either. For which I was grateful.

In silence we threaded that series of narrow and twisted little streets, with a stcp-archcd bridge at every filty yards, which— improbable though it seems to the stranger— is tie main route from tlia t quarter to the Piazza of San Marco. And all the way we were met by the strangest apparitions. Pierrots in while and black and red and green, ghastly skeletons that were youths in black tights gruesomely painted w ith white bones, medieval pages, toreadors, Red Indians, knights, cighteenth-century gentlemen, Moors, Turks, Chinamen, Mephistopheles, men in women's clothes and women in men’s, a ll w ith their faces daubed with crude color in a manner that varied Irom the terrifying to the merely ludicrous and a ll making a joyous clamor of shouts and songs and a din on tin druitLs and wooden trumpets that was sufficient to wake the spirits ol the oldest (lead, were promenading the c itv.in the traditional manner of the olden times I t was the Venetian Carnival of a hundred and fifty years ago come to life again. T h is fantastic resuscitation thrilled me strangely, and m ercifully Antony had apparently not a word to say ahout it. I did not inquire into his feelings. Once or twice I glanced at his face. H e was stating at these weird figures as though dazed, I was content to leave him so.

■pU T it was in the immensity ol the Piazza of San M arco that this perambulating

masquerade reached its clim ax One saw that the band was playing in the center, but it was inaudible in the murmuring surge of human voices, in the raucous cacophony of wooden “ squeakers,” the bursts of laughter, the snatches of song that echoed and reechoed from those three cndosing fagades of colonnaded Renaissance architecture and the mosaic-encni.sted Byzantine front of St. M ark’s at the further end. The place was black with people, but the crowd of lookers-on was merely an undifferentiated background, almost unperceivod, for the vivid ly conspicuous little companies of maskers, in endless variation of bizarre attire, singing at the top of their voices yet naively absorbed in a certain ritual precision of performance, which burst continually through its mass. There were hundreds of them, holding together in self- sufficient little groups that made each its own particular little rio t far and wide over tho great square.

The eye was bewildered with the m ultip licity of impersonations; Pierrots with their black blobs on (mstumes of every hue, bur- noosed Arabs, sequin-jingling gipsies, harlequins, dandled medieval courtiers, pig- tailed Chinamen, clowns, creatures with monstrous noses and awful eyes, a w ild medley of the charm ingly fanciful and the hideously grotesque. Here strange incarnations to which one could give no name pranced in a vociferous Bacchanal single file through the crowd; there girls in pink dominoes, their hair streaming loose, danced like y o i^ m snads in a hand-linked w hirling ring with young men who forgot their dignity as ancient Romans; everywhere gracefully promenading was the eighteenth century w ith cane and knee-breeches, white wigs and hooped skirts. Menaced at every instant w ith final separation, we pressed ourselves w ith difficulty through the throng and I . for one. lost almost tho sense of my own identity, felt myself almost imreal in a fantastic world. Antony struggled to keep touch w ith me, uttering not a word and, as I have said, apparently dazed.

A t last he spoke.“ Let us go now to tho Ridotto,” he saidThe Ridotto? I hesitated a moment,

collecting my w its. The Ridotto was the great public gambling-house of Venice in the eighteenth century. WTiere was it ? I remembered. It was just at the mouth of the Grand Canal, to the right of the Piazzetta. One passed tie M int, the gardens of the Royal Palace, the office of the Port— and it stood, or used to stand, ju st beyond.

“ Come along then,” I agreed and led the way toward the Piazzetta, meaning to turn to the right along the water front by tlie R oyal Gardens.

Ho stopped mo.“ One cannot go that w ay," he said. “ One

must go round. There is a canal in between.”

So there was! I had forgotten the canal at the end ot tlie Gardens. B u t I had never been to the Ridotto, if it stili existed, in my life, and I did not know the way round at the back. Antony had, however, already started off in the reverse direction through the Piazza, and I followed him mechanically, M y mind was so bewildered with that phantasmagoria that leaped and danced all around me, confusing me w ith its babel of noise, that 1 did not for the moment question why Antony should know anything about the Ridotto, let alone that he should know the way. M y reasoning faculties were suspended in that din. He shouldered through the crowd, left the Piazza by the way we had entered it, and turned to the left down a little street, strangely quiet after the hubbub we had quitted.

’TP H R EE-Q U A R TER S of the way down he stopped before an open portico that led

into a large but obviously deserted and dilapidated entrance hall.

H e turned tome, puzzlement on his features.“ WTiat’s happened to it ? ” he queried.“ I t was shut up a hundred years ago,”

I said. “ W hat did you expect?” And then suddenly, in the quietness of that street, my mind began to work again. “ B ut I thought you said this was the first time you had come to Venice?” I demanded.

H e stared at me with that dazed look on his face, and then seemed to wake up with a jerk.

“ Yes— I — ot course it is,” he answered.“ W ell, then, how the devil did you know

your way round by the back to this place?” 1 challenged him.

H e looked at me, genuinely puzzled,“ I ’m damned if I know. Funny, wasn't

it? ” H e bit his lip as he looked at me with a curious vacillating uncertainty. “ I — I — it sounds an absurd thing to say, but 1 sort of lost myself in that crowd— I seemed to have a vague idea—" he stopped, “ It 's nonsense, of course!”

“ You found the way here a ll right— where I couldn’t have taken you— and that's not nonsense! And I should like to know how you did it .” 1 said, with some emphasis. The incom prehensibility of this occunence almost annoyed me. 1 scanned his honest, bewildered face for the hint of some farfetched practical joke, inherently improbable th o u g h lfclt it to be. There never was a more sublim ely simple-minded hllow than Antony. He was obviously genuine now in his inability to explain.

“ I — I really can’t tell you,” he said. “ It ju st came over me.” H e shook himself as though shaking off an uncomfortable spell. •“ Let's go for a (iiiiet walk somewhere— away from that mad crowd.”

We retraced our steps up that deserted calls, pushed through the double stream ot people flowing to and from San Marco, and turned into the narrow Frezzaria. Here most of the shops were already shut and passers-by were few. We turned again at random into another dark and narrow deft between the tall houses, and lost the Carnival entirely, in this labyrinth of gloomy alleys, scarcely wide enougli for us to walk abreast, and lit only w ith diffused moonlight and a yellow lamp at the sharp comers, there was not a living soul save ourselves. Only occasionally, when we slackened pace on one of the numerous little high-arched bridges for a glance at the mnldering front of some old palace, silent and mysterious above the stagnant water of a narrow side-canai, did a faint reverberation of distant clamor come to our ears. Wc walked in silence; I puzzling over the ine.rplicability of that incident of the Ridotto, Antony apparently equally disinclined for speech,

S U D D EN LY', at a corner that seemed made for some medieval cloak and dagger

murder, he stopped and clutched my arm, looking about him as though seized with an W cntification. In the wall on out right was the black cavernous opening of a sollo portico leading to an interior court.

“ We must go down herel” he exclaimed.“ B ut why on earth— ? ” He did not even

hear my expostulation. He had already darted into the blackness of tile sollo portico. There was nothing to do but lo follow him.

X did so, with the little qualm of trepidation natural at venturing into such an uninviting darkness. Groping my way in, I felt the wall bear round to the left and emerged unexpectedly on a narrow little quay, arched over with a colonnade picturesquriy silhouetted against the m isty moonlight of a side-canai. Antony was already at the further end. I tojoined him.

“ W hat are you playing at? ” I began again. H e seemed not to hear me. H e was staring up at the moonlit fafade of an ancient Gothic palace, its brick eroded and the carved stone of its pointed windows chipped and blackened, its water-gnawed pcUi leaning over in the last stage of decay, but yet magnificent as it reared itself massively at the junction of this canal with another. There was not a

(CoiUinuei on page ig o )


" P o r t r a i t a f M ftdatn t A f. C .'

Radiant color ushers in the new fall silks. Cheney — Brothers’ Mirrokrepe, a deep-lustred reversible crepe-

satin, gives grace to every interpretation of the fashionable silhouette.Frostkrepe, with its faille rib and its characteristic sparkle, is seen in modish shades in many of the smartest frocks, while Cinderella Prints of Oriental magnificence line the new coats and wraps. Cheney Silks always forecast the fashion trend.

There’s a Cheney Silk for Every Garment a Woman Wears

C H E N E Y B R O T H E R S , F o u r t h A v e n u e at E i g h t e e n t h S t r e e t , N E W Y O R K


f o r

Parfiiin d’Hahna, L’Etrange Fleur (illustrated)

The ptrfume o f damp mosses, o f early blossoms and shoots unfolding, near the bright maters amongst tbe mint and thyme.One dreams o f the early awakening o f spring, the buoyant dash and brllUance o f the first fine days. A selection ofPotreFs from the Parfums Rd>sme%

W ere ^OIRET tells how a Xvoman may he^ express her own personality . . . through odeurs

TO IRET is the world’s master creator o f women’s clothes. He has shown thousands how they may express their personality in the cloches they wear.

And millions have been influenced by his aeadons.

N ow he tells women that there is a step further than this. That the final touch in self-expression lies in perfumes. That a gown may almost— but not quite— express a woman’s personality. But that the right perfume will express it . . . subtly, disaeecly.

So for years he studied perfumery. And at last, from the perfumes o f Rosine, he has selected those which give the aaual colour o f a woman’s individuality.

With absolute fidelity. Telling a little . . . promising much . . . betraying nothing.

Then came the problem, how could a woman know which perfume was her very own? How identify it? And finally the answer came. This is the way.

Poiret has designed for each perfume, a bottle, or flacon, or individual trapping, which is a key to the scent it contains. Each is unique, exquisite— a lovely creation o f his own.

So now, when in the better shops you find the perfumes o f Rosine, in the bottles and packages of Poiret, you may identify che one indubitably yours.

Whichever one attracts you most, that is the one which holds the odeur best suited to your own peculiar style. Thus is chance eliminated.

Try it and see. For in Paris Poiret himself has made many tests. And now he offers his plan to the women o f America as a guide to their own personality. The problem solved by a world authority.

Fortunately the perfumes seleaed are very rare, very lovely. Thus they are quite expensive. But this is only natural. Else would the charm o f exclusiveness be lost.

Ih the more exclusive shops o f your city the perfumes o f Rosine ■wiB he found for sale, in the packings that Poiret himself designed fo r them. Each -with Its own raison d ’etre, each you can identify. Or ive ■will refer you to the dealer-who seitsthem., i f you will but write.

THE C H A N D O N CO M PAN Y, 509 FIFTH AVENUE, N E W Y O R K . EXCLU SIVE D ISTR IBU TO RS FO R TH E U N ITED STATESAyuntamiento de Madrid

f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4129

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130

H J in cto u i/ 'ejiia.

c M a i j

' A l l R e t a i l e r s i n A i o b n c a A d m i t

i that F a r r i n g t o n E v a n s were the firSt to introduce, in April, the cut felt hat and high-crowned^^

Directoire Modes I o f Reboux which have both had such

-?«^>phenomenal success.C u t j d t .

; FARRINGTON 6 - EVANS now p re se n twith equal confidence, the Style which authoritatively forecasts the Mode for Fail Millinery, and for which F a r r i n g

t o n & E v a n s predia an equal success!Why guess about Style when wc continually predia Style Success?

M A K E R S O F TAILO RED HAT

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Importers and Promoters S^le Certainties /

T H A T P H O E N I X , M E M O R YF. Britten A u s t i n ’ s Story

(Conlinutd from pate 138)

H A R P E R ' S B A Z A R

Ughc anywhere on its front. .Antony clutched m y orm, and his hand was trembling.

“ H er w in flow !" he whispered. “ T h ere !” H e pointed up. “ T he long thin one. Just under the can 'ed madonna.”

1 lost parience.■'Look here, A n ton y ." I said roughly.

“ This is getting beyond a joke. \ V b c« w indow ?”

“ Eh— w h at?" H e gave a genuine start as he turned and looked at me. “ W h a t?" H e seemed precisely like a somnambulist suddenly awakened. “ W liat is it? W here are w e ?"

■'Damned i f I know,” I replied. "L o o k here, m y lad, I\-e hart enough o f this. Either you ’re playing a silly trick, or you ’re not well. In any case you 're getting on m y nerves. But while we're about it. I shall be glad i f you 'll tell me whose tvindow it is that you 're so interested in .”

H e passed a hand dazedly over bis brow. ■ 'W indow ?'' he said. “ \\’hat wdndow?

W hat are you talking abou t?” H e stared at me in an utter lack o f comprehension.

“ T hat settles i t ! ” I pronounced. “ W e go straight home, m y lad, if I can find the way. Com e along.”

I drew U m b y the arm toward the dark entry b y which w e had com e. H e did not resist, bu t involuntarily b e half-turned for another upward glance as w e left that sQent little colonnade b y the watersirle.

Ba c k again in the narrow street. I hesitated for the correct direction, 'p ie re is

nothing so con fuang as this maze o f Venetian caili. Then , though far from certain, I thought I coulrt m ake a pretty good guess at it, and continuing a few steps further on I turned sharply into a narrow street on our left. W e had scarcely got round the com er when .Antony shrank back abm ptly and s to r ie d dead.

“ X o .n o , n o !” b f cried, with the unexpected poignant accent o f a child in a nightmare terror. " X o t this w ay! N o t this w a y !”

I refused t o le t a sudden absurd eeriness get a grip on me.

" D o n ’t be a fo o l!” I said. W as the man going o u t o f his mind— or was he m erely ill, delirious? In mther case, this could not he allowed. “ Com e a lon g !” I caught hidd o f him and tried to drag bim cm ward. H e stood as (hough rooted to tbe stones, shivering m iserably in all his body,

“ N o, no. n o !” he cried. And then suddenly, wrenching himself from m y firasp, he turned and fled like a hare in the opporite direction.

I t was all I could d o t o keep him in s-iew as I followed at m y best speed. \Mrut a t length I overtook him. it was to find him leaning against a ■wall, panting for his breath. I was now thoroughly angry.

"W h a t on earth is the matter with y o u ?” I dem anded. “ IXTiy did you run away like th at?”

“ I m u running, w asi’ t 1 ? ” b e asked, feebly, as though not quite sure where he was or what he had been doing.

“ Y ou m ost certainly were,” I rm lied. “ B ut what's the m atter? W h y d id you run?”

" I — I d on 't know.” he said, plainly ashamed o f himsell. “ Something cam e over me— I d m p iy cou ldn 't go dow n that tittle street.” H e psiUed himself together w ith an obvious o r t . “ I say, old man,” he went on, contritely, " I ’m awfully sorry for behaving like this. I — I can ’t explain it. Y ou must think I ’m mad.”

“ N ever m ind w hat I th ink,” I retorted. “ L et 's get along hom e. T hat's the place for you . B ut I ’m hanged if I know w h iu w ay to go. Y ou ’v e lost us properly now,”

H e murmured once m ore something about being sorry as we set o ff again to find our way out o f this bewildering labyrinth o f constantly intersected narrow alleys all exactly alike. There was n o one whom we m ight ask. W'e had walked for som e distancx in rilence, all m y wits concentrated on the problem o f puzzling out our route, when be a band on m y arm.

“ I say, old m an ,” he said, almost humbly, “ would you mind talking? I t— it's this silence, I think.”

1 G.AVE him a sharp ^ n c c b u t made no 4 com m ent. This was no time or place for a psycbo-pathcdogical diagnosis, -t il m y faculties were preoccupied with the necessity o f getting home as soon as passible, and I was still utterly bewildered as to m y whereabouts. Bui I threw him a sop.

“ W ell, t d l me all about you r dinner in the resiaurant-car to-night,” 1 suggested brutally, as I looked about me for som e familiar architectural feature.

“ T hat’s a good idea!” he exclaimed, and forthwith he began to recite, with meticulous detail, the menu o l cv e iy mcai he had had on that train since leaving Calais.

H e was still in the m iddle o f his catalogue when w e were suddenly disgorged, irith that

I utter unexpectedness which is characteristic

o f finding one 's w ay in Venice, into the dear open space o f the Cam po San Stefano.

"H ere we are!” I exclaimed, w ith a deep breath o f relief, “ W e’re nearly home, my son— and it ’s bed for you , and a doctor in the morning. Y ou 'v e got an illness coming on .”

“ N o , no,” he said. “ I 'm perfectly all right now . I t 's left me all o f a sudden. G oing over those jo lly old meals did it. But I say, old m an,” he added, imploringly, “ don 'i teU you r wife anything about it. I don ’t want to look a silly ass.

H e made me promise silence. H e was now in fact a[q>arently, as he said, “ quite his d d ch irpy again,” and b e l l i e d the last stretch o f our w ay w ith voluble fatuity, telling me about some wonderful “ b ird ” he had met at a till dansant in London before coming away, I listened with tbe surface o f m y mind, while underneath I was devoutly hoping that when he w d te up in tbe m onung he would Dot find himself in the full grip o f an attack o f measles o r something equally inconvenient. V et that explanation did not quite satisfy me— the rest m ight be incipient delirium, bui how the devil did he know the w ay to the K idotto? A fantastic hypothesis fiitted intc m y thoughts— and Ihaniid ifd i t incontinently. I t was too absurd.

H e am>eared perfectly normal when he sat once m ore in our apartment, and m ade my wife laugh w ith his exuberant description 01 the Carnival masqueraders. B ut I went to sleep that night worrying over the whole e p i ^ e , and haunted by the regret that I bad n o t at least taken his temperaturr before lum ing in.

n p H E next m orning it was w ith some relief T that I found him up and dressed before

me, leaning over the balcony and gazing at the palaces a t the other ride o f the Grand Canal. X jmned him.

“ H ow d o you feH this m orning?” I asked. "Sp lend id ,” be re tte d . “ Slept like a top.

I say, cdd m ao. what's the nam e o f tbai palace over there, the one directly opposite? I t seems sort o f vaguely familiar t o me. i suppose 1 must have seen it on a picture post-card somewhere."

“ Giuliani,” I said. “ There are dozens of Giuliani palaces all over tb e d t y , like the J locen igo and tbe C onlaiim . I t was an d c noble fam ily with m any branches.”

H e nodded his head.“ Giuliani,” he murmured to himself.

“ Giuliani— Giuliani— Caterina Giuliani— ” “ W hat's th at?” I challenged him sharply.

W ere last night’ s disconcerting sym ptom i recomm encing? “ W h o is Caterina GiuUani? ’

“ W h a t? " b e looked a t m e. “ D id I say that? I don 't know w hy. I t just cam e up in m y mind- Perhaps it ’s an historical name I ’ve heard or read somewhere.”

“ I think n o t ," I replied firmly. “ I ’m pretty sure that Caterina Guiliani is not a nam e mentioned anywhere in any histor>'.I say, .Antony," I scrutinized him shrewdlj', “ you tUdn’ t by any c h u c e dream when you went to bed last night that you were livios in the Venice o f past centuries, did you ? "

H e laughed." N o t on you r life ! I d idn ’ t dream about

anything. I slept like a l c « .” H e m et mr eyes, satisfactorily. “ I know what you're getting at. Y o u ’re worrying over m y potty behavior last night. I worried about it a (mU too, old bean. I don ’ t m ind telling you on the Q.'T, W ondered if I was going off m y chump. But, bless you r dear heart, I 'm not- I went over every price in the market before I went to rieep, and g o t ’em right every one. I was just a b it nervy, that’s all, w ith all that raiket after a long journey. .And T d had a pretri thick time before com ing away, too. D o n 't ; you get any idea into you r m ind that I ’w going to perform any old reincarnation stunt, o r any rubbish o f that sort. I ’m very muc!i in this century, o ld tiling, le t m e assure you.'

.At that m om ent, m y w ife joined us and in charily to his tmidoring glance, I turned thi conversation on t o the s ^ e ground o f geuem {latitude. AS'bere should w e take him tha' m orning? St. M ark ’s and tbe D ucal Palace o f course— but after? 1 picked up a useful!, comprehensive illustrated guide-book I' Venice that la y on tbe escritoire, and turnci over its pages for inspiration. Suddenly oa o f the illustrations caught m y eye. I t wa a photograph o f an andent G c ^ c standing a t the junction o f tw o can-ils—thi palace o f last night, the one w ith the matlonni above the long, thin ■window. A nd uniief- ; neath were the words; Palazzo Giuliani! I,

I don ’t think I have ever been m ore starll j . in m y life. I almost jum ped up t o show hiifi the photograph— and stiq^ied m ysd f j ^ { time. T h e sight o f tbe nam e he M d j u j unconsdously murmured, linked with tn® old palace in which he had been so strangey interested last night, might— I shrank fm|l carrying m y thought to its logical condusipj- H e was now cheerily normal. L et s le e p ;* doigs lie. Besides, it would have neccJ-itat®

{Continued on pa te 132)


f o r S E P T E M B E R ' 1 9 2 4 131

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132 B A R P E R ' S B A Z A R

T H A T P H O E N I X , M E M O R YF . B r i t t e n A u s t i n ' s S t o r y

(Continued from page 130)

a long and awkward explanation to m y wife.I closed the book without a word.

A l l that morning, as w e walked about the city , I watched him narrowly but in

vain for any peculiarity that raight confirm the fantastic idea which persisted in cropping up at the back o f m y mind. I t was too absurd, o f course! I f ever there was a typical, solid, unimaginative young Britisher, rather fatuous when not occup itd with matters o f businiss, it was A ntony .Sinclair. H e jabbered away loquaciously to m y wife, making her laugh with his cheerful slang, in every respect the not-too-intelligent product o f an English public scbool and a few years in the C ity. \Ve took him round to the usual show-places and he duly uttered all the ordinary tourist’s comments— but o f any abnormal recognition, not a hint.

H e was facetiously amusing all through lunch, and afterward w e went for our coffee to one o f the cafes on the sunny side o f the Piazza, where we sat at an outside table id ly watching the downward swooping flocks of pigeons and the sauntering afternoon prome- ntide o f the Venetians. L he Carnival would n o t end until the follqwing night and, although the masqueraders do not usually appear till after dark, a few bold or impatient revelers were already showing themselves, their costum e and paint rather crudely incongruous in tb e daylight. W e sat and looked a t them in silence, all tbe immediate topics o f conversation exhausted.

Suddenly A ntony startled us b y a burst o f laughter,

“ H a! ha! ha! V astly droll that mask there, stap m e! T he harlequin w ith his lath — d 'y e m ark h im ?” H e laughed again, hilariously.

'T 'H E R E were, as I have said, a few fancy L dresses on the Piazza, but neither o f us

could anywhere see a harlequin. T hen the curious archaism o f his phraseology, which I had a t the m om ent taken to be merely a piece o f high-spirited buffoonery, struck me with a new significance. I glanced at him in alarm. T hat strange dazed look was again in his eyes. Ought I to get him hom e? I had no time lo resolve the question. H e uttered a sharp ejaculation that made eveiy one about us turn to look at him.

"L ook ! There she is !” H e half-rose from the table in a quivering excitement, quite unconscious o f the grasp w ith which I was quick to restrain him.

“ W ho? W here?” asked m y wife, in natural surprise.

“ T herel” H e pointed toward the colonnaded end o f the Piazza away from St. M ark ’s, One or tw o figures were walking across the square, but they were ordinary middle-class Venetians, unlikely people for him to know, “ There! T i s she— Caterina! ’T is she— I swear it ! Should I not know her, even though she hides her pretty face under her mask, the dainty rogue? W hy, ’ tis the very flowered pom padour she was wearing when I first saw her! She saw me, too— I protest, she saw m e!”

“ But— ” began m y wife, quite bewildered. “ W here? W hom are you talking abou t?”

“ T herel” H e pointed. “ Caterina! La Signora Contessa Caterina Giuliani! There w ith her fat waddling old m other— a pox upon her! A nd that damned what-d’you-coU-him — cicisbeo— sidling up against her skirts, curse him ! I drew upon him in the R idotto last night when he bragged o f fastening her garter, and his friends have not yet waited on me. B ut he shall m eet me, for all that, or m y name is not George Sinclair!”

M y wife .stared at him, uncertain whether, in the boisterous high spirits he had been exhibiting ail day, be was facetiously affecting to be back in the eighteenth century, or whether— she caught m y eye in the unadmitted sudden doubt o f his sanity. Gripped w ith a curious fascination, I made a gesture to keep quiet. George Sinclairl Perhaps now 1 should get a hint that would enlighten the whole m ystery o f his strange behavior. But I kept a tight grip on his coat.

“ There! She secs me! She lifted her mask, the teasing jade! She smiled! I protest, 'fore Heaven, she smiled! H a ! L ook ! They are going into the church, the three o f them!

“ T h e church?” queried m y wife, altogether puzzled.

“ Yes! T h e church there— Saa-Jiromy- what-d ’you-call-’ em ! ” H e pointed to l i e arcade o f shops at the end o f the Piazza. The church? T he Church o l San Geminiano which form erly stood on that spot, was demolished by Napoleon in 1807! I doubt if Antony Sinclair had evet heard o f it. “ She turns again! She beckons! I crave your

iiardon, friends!” H e twi.sled himself to us or an excited but courtly bow. “ I must

follow her! E ven i f I contrive not to whisper t o her during the service, I can at worst offer her holy water as she com es out. See! She lifts her mask and beckons!”

l i e almost knocked over the table as he broke from me and darted off.

“ A fter h im !” 1 exclaimed, jum ping up from m y seat. H eaven knew what public absurdity he m ight com m it in this fantastic search for non-existent people in a church that was no longer therel

“ W hat’s the matter with him? ” ^ s p e d m y wife, as we liastened in pursuit o f his running figure.

“ I ’ ll explain la ter!” I gasped. “ For H eaven’s sake, le t ’s get hold o f him now !”

H e was well ahead, bu t still in sight. I saw him leap up the couple o f steps o f the arcade— and com e w ith a crash against the narrow strip o f wall between tw o shops. I t was by the grace o f God he had not gone clean through a plate-glass window, I saw him drop, stunned w ith the impact, upon the pavem ent, and the next m oment I was by his side.

T ^ IIE R E was, o f course, already a crowd L around us as I endeavored to lift him up.

Fortunately, it was almost m ore interested in the excitedly voluble explanation which the astonished shopkeeper, with dramatic gestures, broadcasted t o all and sundry, than in the occurrence itself. M y wife pushed through to m e as I got him on his feet-

“ I don 't think he’s much hurt,” I reassured her. “ but w c must get him home. A gondola! ”

The word “ gon d ol*” uttered by a foreigner in Venice instantly wakes every Venetian to an intense activ ity o f helpfulness. “ Gondola? Gondola, signore? Eccol Eceo, m a gondola!" H a lf a dozen hands pointed. There was, m ercifully, a gondola-stand within fifty yards, ju st round the corner o f the Bocca di Piazza-

All the w ay back, he did not utter a word. H e sat stunned and passive in the gondola, as though on ly vaguely conscious o f his environment. 'The m an was obviously ill- \Ve g o t him home, and took his temperature. I t was 103°! I put him straightway to bed and, while m y wife went in search o f a doctor, sat and kept watch over him.

H e la y for a long time motionless, w ith his eyes closed- Presently he opened them and looked at me, without a smile.

“ I say, old man, I think I m ust b e going o ff m y chum p,” he said. There was a curious frightened look in his eyes,

“ Nonsense!” I reassured him . “ Justkeep yourself quiet— you 'll be all right.”

H e stared at me fixedly.“ I t ’s strange!” he said. “ One minute

I see you sitting there, ju st as you are— and then you sort o f fade out like a m ovie picture, and I ’m looking at something quite cliflerent. People in fancy dress— knee-breeches and puffed-out skirts, such funny m incing sort o f people, all bow ing and scraping to one another and offering snufi w ith immense politeness. T h ey ’ve all got funny little m a s li on, too. I t ’s so muddling— one picture is just as real as the other,” H is voice died away with his last words, and his eyes closed again.

There was a moment o r tw o o f silence, and then once m ore his lips m oved, this tim e in a stealthy murmur, an ingratiating significant smile totally altering the expression of his face. H e made a m ovem ent with his hand, as thoughd ipp in git in fo a b o w l and sprinkling water with his fingers.

“ H ear me, Signora! AscoU am il" Then, under his breath, to him self: “ Curse this Italian lingo! W as that right?” H is whisper suddenly became m ore intense, the smile more significant, the words hurried as i f making the m ost o f the briefest o f opportunities. “ tin piccolo momcnio, per Vamor di Dio! AscoUamil l o i'amol l o t'amol Ah, perdu- lamentel Signora! Signora Caterinal lo t'atnol" T hen dropped to a souo-voce com ment for him self: “ W ould G od she spoke English!” rose again m a murmured earnestness o f appeal: “ Signora!" H is hand snatched at something invisible and brought it quickly to his lips for a fervent kiss. Then suddenly his smile changed to one o f alert and satisfied understanding, w ith a quick nod o f the head and a touch o f his finger on his m outh in pledge o f silence. “ Chut! I understand. Capisco! Capisco, bellissima Signora!" H e paused a m om ent as if listening, answered in an even m ote conspiratorial whisper. “ .Sia- sera?— Un messagero?— T i ringrasio, Signoral — A h, damn that cicisbeo! W ere this not a church, I would— I ” H e gnashed his teeth, scowled, and then his face cle.tred again to a smile o f self-satisfied contentment. His m urm ur was once m ore a conversation under his breath with himself. “ This evening! A messenger. Per Bacco, but I ’m trembling all over! Stap me, bu t I 'm in love. You ate in love George, really in love. That smile o f hers! Those eyes— when she_ lifted her mask— ” H is voice died away again.

'X 'H E N slowly his eyes opened and he once X more stared at me.

“ T hat's a rummy thingl’ he said, in his normal voice. “ I could have sworn I was

(Continued on page 134)


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 133

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T H A T P H O E N I X , M E M O R YF , Britten A u s t i n ’ s Story

{Coniinued from page 132)

standing in the doorway o f a church an^l watching the daintest little bird in eighteenth- century clothes go 00 along the Piazza _ there was St. M ark ’s a t the other end— in com pany w ith a fat old dame and a thin fellow in l i e e breeclias and a long coat. Such a funny feeling, too . I had. D id you ever really go o ff the deep end about a girl, rid bean?— you know, everything going umtrl inside every time you looked at her? I t w ^ like lhat. Seemed to me as i f I was m adly head-over-heels in love w ith her. So real, too. I can feel it still.”

“ Y o u ’v e been dreaming,” I smiled at himreassuringly. “ B y the w ay, A ntony,” Ip u t the question w ith the m ost casual air o f indifference I could assume, “ was there ever a George Sinclair in you r family— a long time a go?”

H e looked puzzled at me.“ George Sinclair? N ever heard the name

in m y life. W h y ?”“ N ever m ind. I ’m rather interested in

you r dream lady, though.” I pretended to m y conscience that I was a b it o f a psychoanalyst digging lor a “ com plex” or whatever they call it . “ D id you dream how you met h er?”

“ I t ’s funny,” he answered, “ bu t I can see it all o f a sudden. Just as it I remembered.’

“ R eally?”“ Yes— so dearly! ” H is voice went drearny

again, “ W ait a b it. I ’ve got it. I t ’ s in a b ig room with old-fashioned chandeliers, prisms and candles. I ’m sitting dow n at a table w ith a lo t o f other people— gambhng. There arc gold coins all over the table. I 'm atting next t o a lady— masked, o f course; nearly every one 'S masked— who laughs— such a topping laugh '— just the same whether she wins or loses. A ll along the table people are playing furiously, throwing ou t their golden coins o r sweeping them back in heaps. W eird looking lot-—as i f they hadn't any faces in those masks. E very now and then there’s a little ^ n d y — jabber, jabber, jab ber, nineteen t o the dozen— between some 0 / them . D irty work, I suppose. H allo! I 'v e got in to some sort o f scrap m yself! I ’m arguing for all I ’m worth with a fellow whose face I can ’t see— he's got a mask over it, o f course. H e ’s wearing a sky-blue satin coat w ith dirty lace a t his cuffs. I 'm giving him w hat fo r ! W hat’s it all about? I ’ve got it— it’ s not o n m y account. I spotted the brute sweeping up some o f the winnings o f the little la d y next t o me, and pounced on his hand. I t ’ s all over. There he goes— trying to sws^ger as he pushes o ff through the crowd. T h ey ’re all looking at m e, those masks, like a lo t o f great birds without faces, horrid, rather! T h e little is looking up at me,I can just see the smile o f her m outh underneath her white silk mask as she speaks-— ‘ Grasie inespressible, S ior Maschera Inglese!I m ust be m asked as well then— of course, she can guess I ’m English. She’s accidentally Im ocked o ff her mask! I say. such a beautiful roguish facet I ’m stammering something idiotic, while inside I 'v e gone all o f a tremble, and feel a tongue-tied silly ass. She laughs teasingly as she puts o n her mask again.” H is vo ice died a w ^ .

“ G o on . W hat n ex t?” I said, fascinated b y this evocation o f an eighteenth-century night at the R idotto.

H is eyes opened on me." I don ’t see any m ore. I t ’ s all gone, I

say, o ld bean, i t ’s queer t o dream like that, isn 't it? I don ’t know tw o w ords o f Italian really, and y e t just then it seemed as if I knew quite a fair am ount— enough to talk, anyway.” , ,

“ V ery queer,” I agreed. “ B ut don ’ t excite yourself about it. Just tell roc anything that flits into you r m ind. H ad the lady a husband?”

H e frowned as though looking in to the recesses o f his consciousness.

“ I can 't quite m ake ou t about him— he doesn’t seem to m ailer.”

I smiled.“ Those old Venetian husbands d id n t

matter very m uch,” I said. “ I t wasn’t good form . E very fashionable lady had her cicisbeo— ”

H e interrupted mo.“ Cicisbeol T h at 's a word I know, some

how . In the dream, you know— not really. A dam n fellow that was always hanging round her ^ r t s , carrying her purse for her, holding her fan, making himself indispensable, mincing around like a dancing-master. I h ^ the devil o f a row with him— one night in the R idotto— ”

"T cU me about it ,” I s r id .B u t he had apparently relapsed in to sleep.

H is eyes closed. H is breathing went deep

‘ ready ’? Troiiia— sono pronto. Y ou lead,I follow . Villainous looking rascal, bu t I suppose he’s all right. She sent him— said s h e y send a messaecro. D on ’t like these dark narrow streets, though. W here’s he going?£ proprio qitesta via? T hat’s right, got it right this time— m y Italian is improving, stap m e! M ust be the w ay, if he says it is. W ish I had gone b y gondola, though— that’s the best way to go— gondola b y side canals.In luck finding her palace last night— but the gondolier knew it, o f course. H ow long did I wait before she looked ou t o f her window? Seemed hours. She saw me— I wager she saw me. W here is he going, this fellow? W hat? D ow n this dark hole? Si, si, si, illustrissimo! Oily brute. In for it now, though— better follow him. , , . A h ! .A little arcade— what’s that canal, I wonder? W hy, o f course, there’s her palace! T hat’s her window ! There— under the madonna!N o light in it. B ut w e’re the wrong side of the water! W hat? Aspelta? W ait a m om ent? W hat? Oh, you 're going to fetch a boa t? W ait here for you ? Capisco.capisco.”

T h e r e was again sQence for a moment.I stared at A ntony ’s face, ly ing there on

the pillow, and tried t o disnne svhat visions he saw fitt in g through his brain. H is features twitched, and every now and then twisted as though in an imeasiness o f mind. Then once m ore cam e the feverishly muttered words.

“ W here has the fellow gone? W aiting all this time , . . d on ’t like it. Is he playing a trick? There he isl N o , that’s a shadow of one o f tlie columns— m oonlight deceives one’s eyes. B ut I ’ll wait no longer. D on ’t want t o get caught here— like rat in a trap. W hich w ay out? E nd o f colonnade— turn to right— dark— but there will be moonlight in the little street, thank G od. . . ."

H e m ade a m ovem ent w ith his hands that sketched the gesture o f groping through the dark, his face scowling. W hat was coming now? I wondered. I tried to reconstruct (Jiat hundred-and-fifty-year old episode in m y m ind as I waited. She had evidently sent a guide to lead him to her palace, as she had prom ised in the church, and the guide had brought him through that dark soHo- portico to the little colotmade on the canal- side whence one cou ld see the Gothic palace w ith the m adonna carved above a window— b ut was it she who had sent the guide? T he doubt shot through me, as disturbing as though I were contem plating a real event enacted before m y eyes. W ould her guide have brought him to the wrong side o f the svater and then left him in that cul«ic-sBC?I waited, in a curious thrill o f apprehension, for the sequel. I t came.

“ T he street again— thank G o d !” H e breathed a sigh o f relief, then screwed up his eyes, closed though they already were, and m oved his head from side to side as i f peering each w ay into a darkness. H is expression changed abruptly in a start o f nervous alarm. “ W ho's that there? In the shadow! Yes! C loak across his face! T hat’s murder! M y sword, quick! Gone! Cone! Scabbard em pty! T hat villain must have slipped it o u t ! ’ ’ A s he spoke, w ith a tone that height- en a l each m om ent in a tense excitement, appropriate expression cam e and went on his face w ith dram atic vividness. “ W hich way now ? Quick! R ound the com et! Along here! N o ! There’s another one there— waiting! M y G od ! D am n that villain! I f I on ly had m y sword and could get m y back against a w a ll!” H e panted in desperate excitement, his head darting from side to side. “ T hey 're closing on m e! H ow many? Three or four, a t least— that was steel there, surely, in the m oonlight! D ow n this street, perhaps? Quick! A h, they ’re here, t o o ! ” H is fingers worked. “ N o t so m uch as a pocket-knife! B y G od, they ’re on me! Could I catch one b y the throat, snatch his sword? N o t swords, stilettos! A h !— his face! T h a t dam ned cicisbeol A h !" He finished in on e sharp cry o f pain and terror, la y deathly still.

■tXTH-AT had happened? I thought I VV cou ld guess. T h a t cicisbeo had settled scores after the r id Italian fashion. A nd the unfortunate Englishm an? Assassinated, I m ight assume, for a certainty. B ut who was that George Sinclair— if such a person ever existed— whose unpleasantly rom antic experience had reenacted itself in the mind of so unproroising a subject as A ntony? Or was it all m erely a delirious dream, without w y antecedent basis in fact? I puzzled over these questions, without arriving at any sort o f solution, as A ntoro ' lay in a quiet sleep, ms

and regular after one great sigh. I sat and murmurs silenced. M y m ed ita tionwatched him, hoping, interested though I was, interrupted b y the arrival o f m y wite witnthat m y wife w ou ld soon return with the doctor.

Suddenly he com m enced to m urmur again. H is face assumed an expression o f mingled anxiety and pleasant expectation.

"E cco t” he said. “ T m ready. W h a ts

the doctor. ,N ervously we waited outside the room tor

the verdict. I t confirmed ou t fears.“ Unless I am mistaken,” said the medico,

“ you r friend is in the incubation stage o f some {Concluded oh page 136)


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 135

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136 H A R P E R ' S B A Z A R f o

HOSE SUPPORTERS f or A L L the F a m i l y

I n p l a i n a n d fa n c y s ilk , g loss a n d c o t t o n w e b b i n g — fle s b a n d

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T H A T P H O E N I X , M E M O R YF . Britten Aus t i n ' s Story

(Concluded from page 134) '

sort o l lever— I trust, not typhoid. W e shall know to-m orrow.”

T yph oid it was. T h e next day put it beyond doubt- Inconvenient though it was, there was nothing for it bu t t o submit. A n yway, it was a satisfe'ing explanation o f his strange behavior. Delirium is often curiously logical in the dramas it weaves. H e must have had the fever on him when he arrived.

I wired hom e to his people, and received a telegraphic reply to the effect that his cousin, Geoffrey Sinclair, was on his w ay out to take charge p f him.

H im also I m et from the 7:40 P .u . at the r ^ w a y station. H e was an older m an than his cousin A ntony and quite a different type, obviously studious, w ith the urbane manner o f a college don. I liked him on sight as w e shook hands.

I put him in a gondola which— using, as the gondolas do, the short cuts b y the side- canals— was at least as quick as the little steamer. From the first words o f our conversation, as we glided noiselessly through that labyrinth o f narrow waterways between the derelict, crumbling palaces, I could tell that m y instinctive summary o f him was correct. H e was a well-read fellow, with— to judge b y his comments— n o mean k n ow le^ e of architecture and history. I named to him such o f the palaces as I cou ld and his remarks were m variably t o the point.

W e slid out from under a b r i^ e toward an ancient Gothic palace, rom antic in the soft light o f the m oon, w hich rose sheer from the water at the junction o f tw o canals. I t was the palace w ith the carved m adonna above one o f its windows.

“ W hat palace is th a t?” he inquired.“ Palazzo Giuliani,” I replied, wondering

if I should tell him later what a curious part that palace had played ia the oncoming o f his cousin’s illness.

“ Palazzo Giuliani?” he repeated, w ith an od d v ivacity o f tone. “ T hat’ s interesting!

V ery interesting!” l i e turned to stare at it as w e glided past.

“ W hy is that so particularly interesting to you ? ” I asked, in surprise.

“ W ell,” he laughed, “ the name is linked w ilh a bit o f our fam ily history. I 'm rather keen on that sort o f thing and I happen to have in m y library an old manuscript diary kept by an ancestor o f m ine while he m ade tbe Grand T our o f France and Ita ly in 17S0- V ory interesting. This ancestor o f mine apparently fefi in love w ith a Venetian lady b y the nam e o f Caterina Giuliani. I promised m yself that I would hunt ou t her palace when I came to Venice.”

“ Y ou ’ve found it. T h a t ’s the place.” I smiled at him. “ A n d you r ancestor’s name was George Sinclair.”

H e looked at m e in astonishment.“ H ow on earth did you know th at?” he

asked.“ N ever m ind. W hat happened to h im ?” “ A n unpleasant experience. H e was

attacked one night b y some— bravi, don’ t y ou call them ?— and very nearly killed. B ut he recovered, came back to England, married an English lady, and died peaceably in 1700.”

“ V ery interesting, indeed,” I commented. “ A nd, m ay I ask, does you r cousin Antony know anything o f that story?”

“ A n to n y !” H e laughed scornfully. “ M y dear fellow, A ntony ’s a very nice chap, but his intellectual activ ity stops short at his bu-siness- I should be surprised i f he had evet heard o f George Sinclmr— indeed, I doubt if any one knows that little story except m yself.”

I smiled, bu t said nothing,

T p H E curious part about it is that Antony, -I- when he recovered, had not a glimmering

o f any m em ory o f his rom antic aberration. H e ’ ll probably call me a liar when he reads this.

F I R S T

T H E N

T H ET H E

F A B R I C G O W N

Baron de M e y e r ' s Art i c l e (Conlinuei from page Ss)

zenana,’ and, as one o f us inquired, ‘ W hat do you mean b y zenana?’ he answered, ‘ I t is the enclosure o f m y harem. I have one hundred wives. I f it wasn’t for this enclosure, they would all escape, for they are bored.’ The fabric being soft and pleasing, w e called it ‘ Zenana.’ This is the origin o f a nam e which has becom e universal.”

A s I was taking leave o f m y three hosts and thanking them for their exquisite courtesy, I could not help expressing m y admiration for the intelligent manner with which their establishment was managed. I t showed m uch thought and infinite knowledge.

"Y e s ,” said M t. Paul Rodier, “ it is not given to every one to be a good mantifacturer, nowadays. One requires culture, to have taken one’ s degree, to have traveled the world over, w ith one’s eyes and ears open, and to have studied in museums and exhibitions,”

C h e z B i a n c h i n i - F e e i e e

IN T H E same block, bu t situated in the Avenue de I'Opera, are the premises o f the

world-famed silk manufacturers, Bianchini- F6rier, T o these I now directed m y steps, having previously telephoned to m y old friend, M r. Coste, the form er director o f the New Y ork branch o f the house, to find out i f M r. Bianchini was disposed to see m e for an interview. T h e answer had been yes, on ly would I leave ray camera behind? T o be interviewed was bad enough, but to b e photographed was more than he could bear. So there is no picture o f M r. B ianchini to illustrate this article —^ a s !

Lyons, in the eyes o f the world, has becom e the center o f the silk trade. Certain famed houses have quite particularly contributed to this reputation, by close cooperation with the Paris coalH'c, by keeping in touch w ith their wishes and w ith the whims o f fashion. Such cooperation produces a friendly atmosphere which, in its turn, facilitates the manufacturers’ creative work. Bianchini-Ferier is a brilliant example o f such cooperation.

I t was quite difficult to start M r. Bianchini talking— almost as difficult as for me to interview him, bu t ouce started , . .

T o m y first question, as to whether the Bianchini establishment was inherited from bis father, as the Rodiers inherited theirs, his reply was, “ This firm was founded in i88g b y ray friends, Attiyer, FOricr, and myself. W e three boys had m et a t Delvaux-Bache- lard, the b ig Lyons silk merchants, where we all three were learning the business.”

“ B ut what was you r father?’ “ W as he in business, too? ”

I insisted,

B i A N C H i N i ’ s P r o g r e s s

OF C O U RSE he was— m y father was a dealer in raw silk. W hen I was quite a

small b o y he used to say, ‘ Y ou shall be a silk m anufacturer,' and he saw to i t I should be properly educated for this purpose. A t eleven I was sent to school in Switzerland, and on returning t o L yons I spent tw o m ore years at the School o f Comm erce and one year at the loom s. .At eighteen 1 spoke five languages fluently and entered the firm o f Delvaux- Bachelard. I becam e quite a useful salesman, for I could talk t o the different foreign buyers, and as I was supposed to be talented there were m any opportunities afforded me to develop m y abilities. F or instance, ray chief having fallen ill, I was asked to represent the firm in Paris and London and get business for them . I was m uch pleased, for I was very ambitious. So I , o f course, accepted,”

“ And how long did you stay w ith Dclvaux- B aclielard?” I asked.

“ I left them in 1888 to start in business for myself, together with m y tw o associates. At the time, A tuyer was twenty-six, F6tier twenty-five, and I m yself was twenty-four. W e settled dow n in the P lace Tolozen in a small apartment, and had but one employee. H ere w e did work for our Parisian clients, for those who gave us tentative orders on the strength o f our fine designs. Our f e t business year brought us over a million and a half francs, in those days some three hundred thousand dollars, w hich wasn’t a bad start for three enterprising bojrs. W e had no factory o f our own, and our textures had to be w oven a t Croix Rousse, a suburb of Lyons, where, in those days, some forty thousand independent loom s were at work and independent orders were accepted.

" T w o years later, owing to b ig strikes at the Croix Rousse, w e decided to buy a small factory o f forty looms- This small factory developed our business. T he big wholesale firms in Paris, those w e were up to then working for, were ou t o f harm ony w ith our progressive ideas, and had given us no encouragement- W e therefore decided to dispense with their interm ediaiy services and start on our own. W e m oved to Paris, t o the Avenue de I'Opera, into this very house, perfect strangers in a large city.

“ Believe me, it required courage to give up (Concluded on page 138)


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 137

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138

nose is neyer shiny throughout ihe entire duy

U nsolicited letters fromVauventhtisiast

‘ T have fou n d that V a u v ia invaluable t o me, because m y skin wasEO shiny, that even constant and b o th e r s o m e p o w d e r in g w ou ld n o t relieve it. I have fou n d that V a u v app l i e d in t h e m o r n in g qu ickly rem oves all trace o f this and m y nose and f a c e a r e n e v e r s h i n y , throughout the entire day.

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M R S . L. C . B.,B d tim o ie , M d.

“ For enlarged pores’ ’

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M ISS C . O .,N ew O rleans, La,

“ A life-saver”“ V au v is a life-saver. I t is absorbed in the skin so quickly and makes a very good base fo r pow der. I used i t the night o f our college prom and it lasted all evening.”

M ISS V . B . B.,M adison, W is.

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What need for further comment?—unless to tell you why Vauv has this new effectiveness. This is the reason; it does not just cover up shine, but actually prevents it by absorbing excess oil and moisture. I t is for this reason, too, that you can depend on Vauv hot to clog the pores in the least, but rather to cleanse and reduce them, instead. In every way, V auv is absolutely harmless.

T ry it for yourself IV a u v is n o w o n sale a t a ll d rug and departm ent stores, price ;o £ . A sk fo r a tube, to d a y ! O t , i f y ou w ou ld prefer, send us l o c ( t o co v e r packing and postage) and w e w ill m ail y o u a t o n ce a sam ple tu be that w ill last a w eek. Just fill o u t the cou p on be low .

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yearns........................................................Street (or P . O . B o x ) ............................................................

C ity.................................. . Stats..

Y o u r dealer's nam e and address..

F I R S T

T H E N


T H E F A B R I C T H E G O W N

B a r o n d e M e y e r ’ s A r t i c l e

(Concbtded from page 136)

big houses and their b ig orders, so as to manufacture for ourselves, and set out to establish a new clientele. W e were considered a very foolish trio. H owever, at the end o f six months w e had m any new customers and had changed our style com pletely. I m yself used to call at all the dressmaking houses w ith m y collection, and while showing them m y fabrics, I watched m y clients’ expressions and listened to tbeir observations. These served as indications for next season’s novelties. -Some o f m y m ore intelligent clients would say,‘ W hy, o b why, M r. Bianchini, d o you go on producing such stiff brocades, sucb heavy textures, and w hy go on m aking such narrow materials? W e need wide materials, they would facilitate ou r task o f making gowns.’ T he result was m y fam ous Cbarmeuse and m y M eteor, to nam e but tw o o f m y supple fabrics. I also widened m y loom s, and altered the old- fashioned m ethod o f folding piece goods in four. I t used t o take hours t o fold a piece o f material, so I started rolling the fabrics on w ood and placing them in cardboard boxes, which is m uch m ore convenient than wrapping them into hea\y paper. W e manufactured aU our boxes ourselves.”

“ H ow long do y o u consider it took you to establish you r house in Paris?” I asked.

“ .About ten years— at least it took lhat long to have us really recognized, bu t that is over twenty years ago.”

“ Is there m uch difference between the production o f silk and woolen textures? Remember, M r . B ianchini, 1 am very m uch a layman,”

“ There is a vast difference,” he replied. “ F or instance, figured silk, brocades, ace made on Jacquard loom s.”

“ A nd what is a Jacquard loom , i f lm a y ask? 1 am quite ignorant as to its merits.”

T h e C l e v e r J a c q u a r d

“ T T IS a loom named after a m an who invented mechanical weaving, and is

specially used for figured- textures. Formerly, t(vo workm en were required for each loom, the one iu front did the weaving while the one at the back puEed the different cords. T h e latter produced the pattern. Jacquard’s mechanical invention replaces the m an a t the back. In earlier days ‘ thread dyeing’ was almost universal, A pound o f silk was dyed red, another green, and so on . T h e threads were wound on spools, which produced the warp, and the blending o f colors was done by the shuttle. T h is m ethod nowadays has becom e almost obsolete and has been replaced by mechanical loom s and piece dyeing. T he fabric, to start with, is w oven in self-toned ecru and subsequently dyed in to tw o, three or m ore shades.

“ Notwithstanding the new m ethods, there are quite a number o f materials w hich are still w oven with previously assorted colored threads, especially in the case o f certain multicolored brocades. Q uick delivery, however, even here forces the workm an into adopting quicker methods.”

“ H aven’ t you made quite a feature o f your metal tissues?” I asked.

“ I can ahnost say w e invented them ,” was his reply. “ Quite new and very special processes had to be invented for the production o f these fabrics, especially in the last twenty years. E ffects are now produced which could never have been o b t a in s b y the old-fashioned thread dyeing. T h e new process is based on acids, w e call them mordancls, and results arc varied and surprisingly novel. M etal tissues have to be handled very delicately and require experienced workmen and careful manipulating. Hands, especially, have to b e exception- aUy clean, for metal tarnishes very easily.”

‘ ‘ W here are you r factories? A re they a ll in L yons? ”

" N o t actuaUy in L yons,” said M r. B ian- cbini, “ bu t some sixty kUometers ou t o f the city . T h e district is called L e Lyonnm s. in the Isere Departm ent. T our du P in is cntiroly devoted to mechanical weaving, while at Dolom ieu and L a Frette w e have factories for hand-loom s. Our textures are first rylindered at Givors, then w oven a t T our du Pin, sent to Tournon to be dyed and printed, and finally finished in Lyons. W e have great difficulty in finding workmen, as children nowadays refuse to make their apprenticeship in hand-looming, the mechanical processes are considered so m uch easier.”

“ H as the manufacturing o f siUe m ade great strides in the last thirty years?”

“ I t certainly has, especially in the last ten years. Textures o f an entirely modern fabri cation have been placed on the market. They were quite unknown before.”

“ In what w ay are they so very new ?”“ T he novelty and quality o f our m odem

textures reside in the supple finishing and in the com bining o f metal and sUk threads. In olden days Italian brocades, for instance, were stiff and hard, and principally used fo r ciu rch vestments. They were ^ a p e d into garments m uchlater. These fabrics were heavy. N ow , though just as rich and magnificent, they ace sutmle and soft.”

' “H ave raw silks risen in price, Eke everything else?” I asked M r. Bianchini.

“ I should think they had,” he replied. “ B efore the war w e paid fifty o r rixty francs a kilo. T o-day w e p ay three hundred and fifty francs, and there was a tim e we had to give as m uch as five hundred francs. H ow-

'ever, it doesn’t seem to matter— b ig prices don ’ t prevent any one from buying, for nowadays luxury appears to be at every one’s com mand. H owever, the creating o f textures is a very special talent. One should be a native o f Lyons, as I am, and have been brought up in the atmosphere o f silk merchants. W hen I was four years old I was already playing about with bits o f silk, so y o u see I started early.

“ One day I realized that, in spite o f m y never having been to Am erica, m y m ost important foreign clients were Americans- I, then and there, decided o n a trip to the United States. I t gave me an opportunity o f opening up direct and very valuable business relations with a number o f the m ost im portant houses over there. W e almost at ouce came to the conclusion that having a svccursale in N ew Y ork was not on ly profitable, bu t was also useful for the developm ent o f our Parisian business.

“ Americans are quick to appreciate novelties, and have always bought our fabrics trustfully. T h ey realized that as I manufactured these for m y Paris trade, models suitable for m y materials were sure to be designed b y the Parisian couturiers. Their deductions were coricct and m y success in the States assured.”

“ W ho were you r first customers in Am erica?” “ T h e big department stores,” M r . B ian-

chirii answered, “ though later on I sold to dressmakers direct.”

“ I suppose you r fabrics are copied a good deal in America?”

“ W ell, it’ s quite possible some of the manufacturers get their inspiration from us, but w hy should I mind— isn’t the copying o f m y materials a very subtle compliment, one which, however, I should like t o see postponed until m y novdties were at least a season o ld .”

“ Is there anything I can say t o m y American readers which cou ld be construed as being a message from you t o them ?”

T w o W o n d e r f u l S i l k s

“ ■V ^F .L L , you might say that I am proud to ' ' have founded a branch o f m y house in

N ew Y o r k ; that i t was started m y two faithful assbtants, M r . Coste and M r. Heu. T e ll them these tw o men succeeded in estri)- lishing for the house o f B ianchini-Ffrier a wonderful position in America, which was achieved by sheer hard work. Y o u might also add that the thought o f m y fabrics, created in France, havir^g enabled American merchants to make m illions o f dollars, gives m e m uch pleasure.”

“ H ave jmu any special fabric in mind, when saying this?” I asked.

“ I have. T o nam e but one or tw o— Char- meuse and Crepe Georgette, b oth o f them among m y greatest triumphs.”

“ W hat m ade you think o f the nam e o f Georgette, in connection w ith the crtee? A s it has becom e famous, its history should be recorded.”

“ T h e history b very simple,” M r. Bianchini replied. “ One day, while calling on M adam e Georgette, the great m odiste o f the rue de la Paix, she said t o m e, ‘ Bianchini, why don ’t you make me a heavy mousseline, a sort o f crepe?’ and she showed m e tw o or three layers o f muslin one over the other. I grasped her meaning, had the desired crSpe made, and brought her the result. She was delighted. 'C e s t exaclement ce g u e je voulais— send me several pieces at once.' I suggested her being the new crepe’s godm other. She laughingly agreed. Hence, its name— Crepe Georgette.”

W ith S eptem ber the theatrical season m i l once m ore be in fu l l sw ing, and P e r c y H a m m on d ’s review s o f both Ihe m a jor and m in or events o f the season w ill a p p ea r i n every issu e o f H a rp er ’s B azar.


J o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 139

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Mi l dred Cr am’ s Story(Continued from page 05)


now and then a spiral broke loose and curled as it dried. T he black ringlets gave him the look o f a saucy Italian o f the Bass Italia. His eyes were Hebraic, tragic and passionate, baffled and eager.

“ W hat we want is something new, M r. Bates,” the reporter began. ‘ ‘ W e’ve had all the stuff about you r life in Russia— ”

“ N ot all! I tied m yself in bow-knots on a square, o f red velvet carpet in the streets of M oscow , and no one laughed. Y et I was funnier then than I am now.”

“ W hat is your real nam e?”“ I have forgotten. I was a gipsy, and

fatherless.”“ W hat the public wants to know, Mr.

Bates, is how you get you r ideas. Y ou have a literary slant. W hat Dickens had. Y ou ’ve got us, from kids to grand-dads, down cold .”

“ H ave I ? ”“ W ell, haven’ t y o u ?”“ G od knows. I 'm not sure that I under

stand people, o r even like them. Only don ’t put that down! T he longer I live the more I am impressed b y the futility o f the personal struggle. M a n is like that masquerader o f Papini’ s— he lost himself— you rem em ber?”

“ Papini,” the reporter said, pouncing. “ Ah! Very illuminating. Y o u read Papini? I seel”

“ D on ’t say so! Papini is a skeptic, an atheist, a devastating Thom as. I f it were known that I kept such literary company. Bates stock would drop ten points. I make the world laugh, bu t I mustn’ t laugh at the world."

T h e reporter shrugged his shoulders. “ W hat I ’m after is a little H am let stuff,

and you w on’t let me print it. T he public likes to think o f you as a philosopher in a clown’s make-up. . ,

“ T he popular philosopher reads Thackeray, Shakespeare, and L ord B yron. So do I— in public! L ook at the books on m y desk over there. Schopenhauer, Baudelaire, Goethe. A whole stack o f dangerous young modems. T hat damns me as a radical and a highbrow, doesn’t it? Say anything you please about me, bu t don ’t call me a thinker.”

B illy poured coffee ou t o f a Sevres p ot into a S&vres cup. “ Say, if you like, that I am not happy. I don ’t belong to m yself. Wherever I go, I am an ob ject o f curiosity. I long for the freedom o f obscurity.” H is eyes, w ith that look o f humble tragedy, the eyes o f a dog, clouded over. “ I should like to find a desert island and spend the rest o f m y days there. A coconut tree. A book— "

“ And thou— ”“ N o ! N o ! I abjure the feminine. Only

don ’ t say so. T o be popular, I m ust be at least a potential lover.”

T he reporter laughed. “ H ow about this island stunt? Dam ned good publicity .”

"P u b h d ty !”“ W ell, you know what I mean. Helping

along the tradition. T he w orld ’s greatest com edian in exile! Perhaps that wouldn’t loosen a few tear-ducts! Y o u could stage a com e-back that would make Pershing’s welcom e look like a feeble handclap. Trium phal arches. Legions. Laurels. R ose petals. Hurrahs.”

“ B ut I ’m quite serious.”“ A re you ? ’ ’ T b e newspaper m an grabbed

his hat. “ T hat’ s a scoop, B illy Bates plans trip to desert isle. Flouts five m illion dollar contract. W orld weary. Grealf”

B illy pushed back his chair and rose, clutching the blue silk robe. For an instant there was a fiash o f his com ic self, that inimitable, side-splitting, and mournful hobo child. H is smile was apologetic— the smile o f a N eapolitan raggle-taggle eager to please: a lift o f the lip, a flash o f teeth, something deprecating, a charming and touching humility.

“ Please,” he said. “ Please d on ’t.”“ A ll right, I w on’ t spiJI you r pretty idea.

B ut if I did— if you should— there isn’ t an island on earth whore you could get away from us. W hy, say! Y o u ’re Santa Claus. Or Puck, or something. Y ou belong t o the crowd. I ’ ll tell you what. Y ou have to pay for popularity. T d change w ith y o u .”

“ W ould y o u ?”“ Sure. Say, how does it feel? ”B illy hung his head. H e tried honestly to

capture his elusive discontent and t o pin it to the wall. H e had, it seemed, eveiyth ing: the accepted blessings were heaped at his feet. H e rejected them, not ou t o f perversity but o u t o f weariness, since he had had a surfeit o f glory. Every critic and poet and novelist on five continents had written that he was the personification of the weltsckmere; the initiated found him n o t laughable but pathetic— the futile woes o f hum anity made manifest. H e felt that he bore the burden of E v c r ^ a n . I f they’d on ly stop talking about him ! T he doubt assailed him that perhaps he did not fee! these things or express them— it was a colossal conspiracy, an intellectual hoax, a

univcr.sal misapprehension. H e was, after all, not a superman.

“ H ow does it f e e l? ” he repeated, “ C row ded!”

The reporter laughed. “ T hat’s m y cue. G ood morning. .And thanks very much.”

'T 'H E telephone rang twenty times between J- nine o ’ clock and eleven. L ike a trapped

beetle, it buzzed beneath the petticoats o f a French doli. E leven times B illy drew it forth to hear himself glorified, solicited, invited, questioned, or, still more flattering, criticized. H e knew opposition to be a sign o f advancement. Hands reached up to pull him down, because he was climbing. He could gauge his success b y the activity o f his antagonists. T lie higher he went, the louder the noise at the fo o t o f the ladder.

H e refused three invitations to dinner, the honorary presidency o f a screen club, the hand o f a rich woman, and a legacy o f ten tliousand dollars bequeathed him b y a fanatic w ho “ loved his eyes.”

A t eleven o 'c lo d i, a celebrated photographer arrived w ith an assistant t o photograph B illy at home.

“ I want you r thoughtful side, M r , Bates. I ’m not interested in the little straw hat and the trick mustache. Y o u understand, I am m ore a painter than a camera-man. I f you please. . . . A t the de.sk, w ith a book. Something serious. A h ! This w itty sophistry o f O jetti’ s. VoUd! D on ’t smile, i f you please. W hen you smile, you are irresistibly com ic. Something o f the Pierrot. Sad. R em ote. T he outlines blurred, as it were. . .

“ I ’m supposed to be funny,” B illy said patiently.

The photographer shook his head. “ N o! I beg o f y o u . Low er the eyes. Smith, shift that light a b it. R ight! N ow , M r. B ates!”

Backing away, he squinted at this rare little man, this gamin turned genius. B illy was not camera sliy, bu t for the first time in his life he hated the stare o f that round eye, digging in to his soul like a surgeon's probe. H e had an unpleasant feeling that the developed film m ight show something m ore than the image o f a young man reading Ojetti: his self-distrust m ight be written on his forehead, his fear m ade forever manifest. N ow that he had achieved success, it seemed too easy. T h e insatiable lens m ight prove him a fraud, a third-rate tumbler w earii^ C esar's laurels. . , ,

"C lick ."“ N ow , M r. Bates, at the window, please.

Looking out. A n expression o f p ity and com pr^ ension . . - . Lights, Smith.”

BUly glanced dow n at tbe cubistic city, pyramids o f granite, oblongs, squares, prisms heaped like the casual crystals upon a window- pane. H is c ity . H e cou ld see his name written across an electric sign in liquid blues and golds, a fluid fame, a press-agent's dream o f im m ortality. . . .

‘•Click."“ T hank you , M r, Bates. N ow , i f you

please, in profile.”B illy sat languidly upon a Chippendale

chair. H e thought, “ Suppose I were really to go to some remote island, ten thousand miles aw ay from this infernal notoriety. I ’ve had a full cup. T o o fuE! A ll these people telling m e how I feel, and why. . . . Suppose I were kicking m y heels on a white beach somewhere— alone— ”

“ VoUdi M agnificent! T he essence o f B illy Bates— ”

"C lick ."“ Very wistful, M erci miUe fo is t "“ N o t at ail,” B illy said politely, stifling

a calculated yawn.

H e L U N C H E D with a popular leading woman, a creature both statuesque and

lissom, who kissed him on b oth cheeks.“ For heaven’s sake, B illy , le t ’s go where

we'll be recognized,”B illy shuddered. “ T he R itz ? ”“ T h e R itz. T h e smallest table, in the

exact center o f the room .”T h ey crossed the crowded place tlirough

a silence tiiat w as like a shout o f recognition. Pretty wom en in French hats turned their heads to watch the passage o f this little man who seemed to wince aw ay from their glance. H ow charming o f him to be shy!

“ This is worth a thousand dollars to m e,” the leading la dy whispered. “ M ake love to me, w on ’t you ? Smile for the ladies! Shake you r curls, y o u delicious faun! I want every on e to know that I ’m lunching w ith Billy Bates.”

“ B ut, m y dear P eggy, you aren’t in need o f advertising!”

“ W hen an actress achieves stardom, Billy, she begins t o consider the decline. Y o u are fortunate. In spite o f the gray in you r hair you can go on being what y o u are. At seventy, y o u w ill still be playing tragic, absurd, human Uttle m en: you w ill stiil be

(Continued on page 142)


J o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4

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Mi l dred Cram’ s Story (Conlin'ud from page 140)


earning tw o million a year. N ot I . I have paused for a m oment on the top rung o f the ladder, that’s all. T en pounds gained, tw o wrinkles, a certain look under m y chin— ”

She threw back her veil; her round, black eyes collected glances w ith the gusto o f a connoisseur. She presented herself t o the public gaze, challenging the love ly ladies in Frencli hats to discover a flaw in the perfection ot her beauty. B illy, who knew something o f the devious by-paths she had followed, wondered at that something candid, limpid, that innocence. I t was m ore than skilful make-up. She was a naughty creature; her name had flapped on m any a line, airing- H ow many husbands? T w o, or three. Y e t she could play dream-smitten virgins, veiling the hard briglilness o f her eyes; her strident and emphatic voice could be huskily beautiful.

“ L et’s have sole w ith white grapes,” she said. “ Y o u can afford it.”

“ So can you ,” B illy interrupted.“ I ’m saving up for m y fat and idle years,”

she explained. “ I spend one dollar and save tw o. I ’m ca n n y .” Shelaughed. H erhand, ungloved, rested for the fraction o f a second on his. “ B illy, I ’m quite lovely and strange and practical and w itty, and a woman. W hy don’t you m arry m e?”

BUfr shook his head. " I ’m sorry. N o .” A perverse idea flashed across m s mind.

“ I ’m going away,” he said.“ A w ay? ”“ Thank God, yes! I ’m going t o cu t loose.

I ’m sick t o death o f this s ide-^ ow , this masquerade of passions, this— ” 5 le waved his hands and a hundred covert glances caught the gesture. “ D iam ond dust and rouge. Ospreys plucked ou t o f living birds. A slaughter o f ermine and chinchilla. Faith dow n in the dust and jazz on a throne. Tkis/’’

“ B ut it ’s l i fe !”“ M y dear Peggy, d o you mean to say that

you bd iev e in it? ”“ O f course I do. I t ’s all I ’ve got t o be

lieve in !” She touched his hand again with pointed, polished finger-tips. “ D o n 't get ideas, B illy. D on ’t, ju st because you ’re an artist, think you ’ve got to be a Bolshevik. T h e critics are doing this to you . Stay human. I t ’s jmur best hundi. Stay real. %Tiy, w e’re all silly children afraid o f the dark, trying to play our little gam e o f make- believe. Stay sane. H elp us. Shoo away the bogies. W o rk fo ru s . W e’re worth it.”

“ I can ’t laugh any m ore,” he said. “ M y nerves jangle. Things taste like straw. N othing coordinates exactly. I want to be alone. I want to sleep, and sleep, and sleep.”

She gave him a curious look : “ B etter not d o the R ip Van W inkle,'B illy. Some one will steal you r crown and you r m oney.”

T he waiter, passing the delicate fragrance o f sole and white grapes beneath her nose, interrupted the conversation- H er eyes hovered, like gulls. H er hands were tremulous with desire for this expensive and delectable portion. She was again worldly, a creature dedicated to artificial em otion; she forgot B illy 's world-pain because she believed it to be a little twinge o f unsatisfied ego.

B illy watched her, his fork suspended. H e knew, and it hurt him acutely t o know , that the graceful, sleek creatures in Paris hats were laughing at him ; the waiter was laughing at him; the head-waiter was laughing at him. . . .

T he unholy desire seized him to twist his hair into a forelock, to assume his screen personality and to shuffle axm>ss the dining-room, mournful, languid, irresistibly funny. . . . T o give them their m oney’s worth, once and for all! D am n ’em!

Outwardly, he was a calm, rather conventional little man, with no hint o f revolt in his eyes-

H c was a m an one laughed at as a matter o f course. H e was B illy Bates.

t J E D IN E D at the Players’ Club with an -*• explorer and a playwright, b oth o f

w hom took him seriously. H e found it possible to quote Verlaine without being written down as a newly-educated mental climber; his good m anners were not a subject for surprise in this com pany. H e was recognized, bu t not chattered at. H e reflected that he was like the m onkey at the zoo, left blessedly alone w ith the in it ia te and disillusioned kei^ers. Gone the sticky babies and worshiping, goggle-eyed small boys and m ocking parents. F or a blessed m oment he could cease being a source o f merriment, a target for indiscriminate peanuts, and could be, quite simply, a monkey.

T h e playwright said; “ B illy, I wish you ’d leave the screen and try the stage. I ’ll write a p lay for you . N ot H am let! Something darned human; Oliver Tw ist grown up. T h e kid in all o f us.”

B illy shook his head. “ Thanks. B ut I

think I 'm through w ith acting. Through w itheverything. M y soul issick. I ’m weary of success. I ’m deafened by the applause o f multitudes. I ’m lonely because I 'm never alone.”

H e smiled, and, as usual, that flash o f teeth touched the risibilities o f his audience.

“ Y ou snicker! T he world snickers. I can’t put m y nose outside m y door without exposing m yself t o the unsolicited, this indecent embraces o f m ankind. I am everybody ’s baby boy! I am dandled on hum anity’s knee. Consider for a m oment the horror o f m y position— to b e conscious o f kindling this recognition in every face along F ifth Avenue, up and down the Bois, the Corso, the Strand, the Bund, the B ubbli:^ W ell R oad . . . . I suppose when I d ie all hell will greet m e; Billy/ O u rB illy l"

Suddenly he buried his face in his hands. A fter a m oment, the playwright said,

“ Nerves, Bates. T hat’s ail. Overwork. H aving to manufacture five m illion dollars’ worth o f laughs ou t o f you r ow n skull, , .

“ I ’E t d l you what,” the explorer interrupted. “ I know the very place you ’re looking for. A little crust o f pink coral and coco-palm s in the exact center o f a painted, purple ocean. One hundred natives. 'They’ve never seen a camera, not to speak o f a m ovie. A nd they ’ve never heard— I swear it— of B illy B ates!”

B illy lifted his head. A look o f incredulity had com e into his eyes. “ N ever heard o f m e?”

“ N ever. G o ou t there and sec. H ace called T alufa in the L ow Archipelago. T V o feet above water and kept afioat b y the grace o f G od and a few bilhon c o r i bugs. A Frenchman, feEow called L a Sointe, settled there thirty years ago. H e is a hermit, a scientist o f sorts. H e will m ake you quite com fortable and feed you coconuts and tinned beet.”

“ B a h !” B illy cried. “ H e ’E adopt me, too. They aE d o .”

" H e never heard o t you ! H e hasn’ t seen a newspaper for twenty-five years. N or a white man, until he saw m e. A nd I took care not to m ention you .”

“ Thanks awfully.”“ N o t at aE.”BiUy poim ded the table. “ I ’E g o ! ”“ Y o u can buy a schooner in Papeete,” the

explorer explained, “ and have yourself put ashore at Talufa for six m onths. Y ou 'll find L a Sainte quite meticulous. H e dresses for dinner, and com bs his beard. Y o u ’ll like him.”

B illy stretched ou t his arms. “ Six monthsl A lon e !”

“ Y es,” the explorer said, lifting his glass. “ Alone at lastl A nd five m illion doEars to the bad ."

■ p iL L Y stepped ashore one afternoon, ■*-» upon a dazzling beach fringed with smaU waves that broke w ith exact repetition, m usical and bubbling. I t was hot- Behind him, the schooner M ary E llen lay upon the sea, hove to, waiting to set sail again in half an hour. B illy had stipulated that the chains which bound him to civUization should be broken as quickly as possible.

T h e crew tumbled his boxes ashore, and a group o f brow n natives in shapeless M other H ubbards cam e out o f their houses to state and to chatter. Their speech was Eke a bubbling o f water. Their eyes wore friendly. Their bare feet le ft lovely, innocent imprints in the sand, like those o f the children o f Eden.

BUIy braced himself to m eet a burst o f laughter- H e lifted his shoulders and arched his chest as E he expected to g o forward into a thicket o f pointing fingers, as a warrior bares his breast to the enem y’s spears.

B ut the Talufans were solemn and uncomprehending. This m an was a “ foreigner” Eke their ow n L a Sainte and the rare adventurers who landed from tramp schooners to seU calico and glass beads.

“ They d o r itk n o w m e ,” B iIly thought- He watched the crew row back to tlie M ary Ellen, obedient but reluctant.

“ So long, B illy ! G ood luck! Back in six m onths!”

H e .waved his hat. I t seemed to him that he was bidding good -by to his last audience; this was to be his final Thespian gesture. He was conscious o f the rom ance o f d ie situation, the figure he made, in white linen, his curls blowing, delivering his valedictory.

T h e m ost fam ous m an in the world! N apoleon Bonaparte must have sensed this

extraordinary release, when he stood at last upon Saint Helena, rid o f the responsibilities o f power.

T he whale-boat diminished, the flash o f oars rhythm ic, conclusive; a t the m outh o f the reef it disappeared in a smother and thunder o f foam, then reappeared again upon sm ooth water, alongside tlie schooner. BiUy saw those little figures clim bing aboard. T he

{Cantinuei on page 144)


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Mi l dred Cram’s Story (Conlinued from page 142)

H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R f 0

M ary Ellen came clum sily about, seemed to falter, to breathe deeply, and all at once, catching the wind, d ip p ^ iihe a swallow and skimmed away.

B illy became conscious o£ the silence about him. H is arms dropped to his side. He should, he reflected, be enormously happy. B ut instead, he feit a vague uneasiness, as if suddenly deprived o f something necessary to existence, such as a heart, or a pair o f sound lungs. H e was dizzy. H e had an impulse to run after the schooner and hail it back, as one hails a taxi on Broadway.

H e raised his arms again and ran a few steps, stumbling in the hot sand.

“ M onsieur! M onsieisrl”A voice hailed him from the shadow o f the

coco-grove. B illy turned— smiling the supplicating, guilty, disarming smile o f a small b oy surprised by a policeman.

A very tall m an w ith a blond beard a d vanced to m eet him.

“ A h, you are here! I was told that some one had landed- M y dear sir— ”

H e offered his hand and B illy surrendered himself to a powerful clasp. H e thought, gazing up at that pinkish beard, a beard curled, spiraled, brushed, tremendous; “ I ’ll use him in m y next picture. M arvelous foil. Oh, w hat luck! T he biggest m an and the funniest beard.”

"H o w do you d o ? ” he said aloud. “ I ’ve com e to visit Talufa. Tired. N ervous or something. Craved quiet.”

“ A h! W ell— it i s quiet. A n occasional hurricane— otherwise. T alufa is excellent for you r purpose. I introduce m yself. H eracles La Sainte.”

“ BiUy Bates.”“ M onsieur Bay-eetes.”“ Great Jupiter,” B illy thought, with an

od d twist a t his heart, “ he doesn't know— ” T h e tealization trailed o ff into a feeling o f

acute nostalgia. A rice-picker o f Bah would have spotted B illy Bates at first glance. A llama o f T h ibet would have slapped him on the back. T h e President o f France would have kissed him on b oth cheeks. A nd this— this back number—■

“ I •will be pleased to entertain you . M on sieur— how d ’you say— Bay-eetes? M y house is there, beyond the store, where you see the tw o hogs.”

L a Sainte turned, and striding ahead, pierced the circle o f m ild-eyed natives like a javelin and made for the veranda o f his house. B illy followed, divided between an immense admiration for his host’s screen possibilities and a desire to shout a t him; “ See here, d o you know who I am? Y ou gorgeous b o o b ff '

HER.ACLES L.A S-AINTE’S quarters were prim itive. A w ide ’veranda framed two

rooms. T he scientist's life was spent lolling in a home-made chair on the veranda, or working In his “ laboratory,” a cluttered closet very like the den o f a m edieval alchemist.

H e flung the door wide:“ \'oild\ M y workroom . W here I labor

for the good o f mankind.”H e chuckled. H is shoulders shook. And

his hand raked at his beard, twisting and untwisting those p ink Dureresque spirals.

“ M aiikind,” he said, his voice a note deeper, as i f he were stirred b y a greater emotion. “ M y children— ”

Peering over that vast shoulder, B illy saw an array o f bottles, gloves, microscopes, filters, magnets, wires, a prim itive assortment o f “ properties,” Stifling his depression, he said politely: “ Very interesting. W hat, m ay I ask, are you doing for mankind? ”

La Sainte dosed the door and led the way back to the veranda. Twilight had fallen over Talufa like purple gauze dropped upon the sleeping face o f a pale woman. Tliere was no sound save tho distant thunder of the reets and the dry rattle o f palm blades against the screens. A swinging lamp hung just above L a Sainte’s head, so that he seemed immersed in a pool o f yellow light. Billy sat in the shadow, feeling very .small, very m uch as he had felt in Russia, when, a sorrow- smitten boy, he had crouched at the feet o f huge gipsies, listening to their stories o f an unknown world.

There was something poignant and exquisite in this reversal. F or the first lim e in ten years he lound himself on the other side o f the spotlight.

La Sainte split wide a coconut and offered the cool milk to his guest.

“ Drink! I haven’t tasted stronger wine .since I left France, thirty years ago, 1 am sixty-five. And m y tongue waters a t the thought o f Bordeaux, M adeira, M oselle, the light bubbles o f Champagne! I pass the names across m y palate, to quench m y thirst 1”

■' W hy don’t you g o back to F iance? ”T he giant made a wide, embracing gesture

with both arms.” r am the servant o f hum anity.”“ H ow do you m ean?"

“ Consider- T lie day will com e when man will find himself without fuel. T he forests will be leveled, the oil wells drained dry, the coal beds picked lo the bone. -And odl the while the earth growing colder, the sun fainter. . . . Y o u com prehend? There will be no fuel to keep men warm !”

L a Sainte shrugged his shoulders. “ Some one, m y friend, must think against that day. Some one m ust care. Some one must work for the millions yet unborn. Therefore I — ”

H e leaned forward, a shining giant in a pink halo o f crinkly hair.

" I will tell you something. I am going to get fuel ou t o f the air! Y o u d on ’t believe m e? ”

“ I don ’t know anything about it, one way or the other,” BiUy admitted.

“ Y ou are not a scientist? ”A perverse and devilish temptation as

sailed B illy : “ l a m B illy Bates.”“ A h.”“ I am the m ost fam ous m an in the world.” “ Y ou amuse yourself, M onsieur, b y making

little jok es?”“ N ot at all.”A look o f fear flashed in to L a Sainte’ s eyes.

“ T hen perhaps you have defeated me. I am old , I am slow, . . . Y o u have plucked my secret out o f the heart o f nature!"

B illy shook his head. “ N o . I have a secret o f m y own- I make m en laugh.”

“ A h ! A c low n !”B illy felt a twinge o f irritation, as if some

one had stepped on the tail o f his coat. “ A n actor," he corrected.

L a Sainte laughed. Throwing back his head, he gave vent t o gargantuan bellows of m irth. Outside, the twilight was shot through w ith peals o f merriment, little star- bursts— the people o f T alufa were laughing w ith L a Sainte, their chief.

“ I t is impossible. R idiculous! Y o u ask too m uch o f m y credulity.”

“ H ave you never heard, then, o f pictures that m ove? ”

“ N o . Explain.”

‘p i L L Y explained. A nd as he gestured, as the lovely words o f description fell on the

silence o f Talufa, he felt w ithin hiTn a new pride, a new awe, a new faith in himself.

“ A ll over the w orld,” he said, “ they are laughing at me. I caper across a dozen million screens, stirrup up lai^hter. This face you are looking at is as familiar as the face o f the m oon. Babies wiE reach for it, and old m en will smile a t it, and lovers will take delight in it, forever. I am alive. A nd I am everlasting. I t Is wonderful. I t is also terrible.”

La Sainte nodded. “ W e are b oth servants- . . . Listen, m y friend. I am, in m y heart o f hearts, n o t a scientist bu t a houlevardier. I love the very dust lying in the gutters of the m e de la Piux. W om en. Pretty, shining wom en w ith tight little waists and high-heeled shoes. Shops. Jewels, Theaters. R ow s and rows o f people in evening dress, and the delicious odor o f velvet and papier-mAchd! I love crowded caf6s and little iron tables set on the sidewalks o f Paris, and a drop o f absinthe on a lum p o f sugar. A n d poodle dogs yapping, and nurse-maids in the gardens of the Luxem bourg! I love boudoirs fu ll of scented cushions, w ith crystal bottles of perfume set upon m arble-topped tables. I love music— the waltzes o f Strauss and W ald- teufeland the .songs o f'ou r own, incomparable Gounod. A ll these things— ”

H e closed his eyes.“ Yet here I am, in Talufa .”" W h y ? ” B illy asked.“ W ho hut I can warm the reprehensible,

the adorable bones o f those pretty women who will live a thousand years from now? I am frivolous; therefore, I isolate m yself, I am easily tempted, and I rem ove m yself from tem ptation. I am lazy , so I com e where I m ust either work, o r go mad. I have abjured life because I love life too well.”

“ Great Scott,” B illy whispered. “ Are you happy?”

“ There is no other happiness,” La Sainte replied.

“ B ut who knows? W ho cares?”“ I know. I care.”“ But is humanity worth serving?”“ Christ thought so.”“ A nd ho was crucified,”B illy shivered. Beyond the circle o t lamp

light, the darkness closed in like a sea, flowing through the screens and washing about that island where L a Sainte sat, imponderable, benign, in possession o f his vmiquc security, his absorbing and satisfying dream.

Suddenly the brow n chUdren o t Talufa began lo sing.

“ W hat’s th at?” B illy demanded.“ Their hymn, to me, their chief,” L a Sainte

explained, expanding his powerful chest.“ To-m orrow ,” B illy said, “ I ’ll make them

laugh.”(Concluded on page 146)


f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4 145

Yes, Your EYES Can Be ImprovedThere can be no EYE beauty without EYE health. But with reasonable care, even the most unattractive E Y K will soon become clear, bright and healthy.Dull, heavy and inflamed EYES ate fatal togood looks. EYES must be kept in a clean, healthy condition— free from dust and other irritating particles which tend to make them red and unsightly. Millions o f women the world over have adopted Mnrine for daily use. It cleanses, soothes and strengthens the EYES — makes them radiate vitality and beauty. Wonderfully refreshing to tired, irritated EYES. Murine Is hygienically prepared and positively does not contain harmful ingredients.O u r illustrated boolcs o n “ E y e C a re ” o r “ E y e B ea u ty ” a t e F R E E o n requ est.

The M urine Company D e p t . 2 4 , C h ica g o

l )R I !S L o

e lV e s

C O A T S W R A P S

B L O U S E S

S K IR T S S P O R T S W E A R U N D E R W E A R

M IL L IN E R Y

a n d S H O E S

Autumn Modesfor Stout Women

■pVERY important phase ^ o f the incoming f a l l m o d e is represented in Lane Bryant collections of high grade apparel. And all models are skillfully reproduced in slenderizing versions for the woman of full figure.

Sizes 38 to 5 6 .BustI f unable to visit any o f ou r stores,urrite coD ep t.K Z forn eu iS ty leB ook

^ n e ^ r y a n t26 W. 39th St., 21 W. 38lh St., New York

H an over P la ce , n r . Fulton S t ., B ’ klyn

C H IC A G O [01 N. Wsbaati Are.

D E T R O IT 1452 Farmer S t

N e x t MonthAnnual FALL FASHION NUM BFR

of H A R P E R ’S BAZARW IT H complete reports of the Paris Fall

Openings. A summary of the new fashions launched b y every important house will be included and, of course, there will be innumerable sketches and photographs of their very best models.

And as usual, from this great collection of •new fashions, H arper’ s Bazar will select those ■ which it considers most important in influencing the mode for fall and winter, tlarp er’s Bazar does not only present the advance mode; it interprets the advance mode.

ON THE NEfPSSTANDS Sept. 29th

Don*t let you r N eck Tell you r A g e !

CO N FRO N T your mirror with honesty. Is your neck developing that stringy, scrawny

yellowness—the first premature sign of age? Don’t let it! You can restore its young, columnlike beauty by using:C R E M E D E B E A U — A rejuvenating cream t h a t n o w o m a n o f th irty o r over shou ld b e w i t h o u t . I t is s m o o t h as softest t o t h e t o u c h , a n d equally benedcial t o d r y o r o i l y ^ n s . N o u r ish ^ the tissues, fills O u t h o H o w s , eradicates lines.^ T rial size, | i .7 5 * Exercises fo r develop ing the n eck furnished w ith order.L O T IO N S U P R A — A n astringent lo tion w hich con tracts loose skin, tightens the m uscles and reduces puffiness. P lacon , $ 3 .

Visit the Salon fo r Frewh Facial TreatmentsW rite fo r booklet and questionnaire

V. D A R S Y17-A W est 49th St. Ne-W York

5 4 R u e d u F a u h o u r g S t . H o n o r s , P a r i s

Darsy Preparaitons may be obtained by mail or at these shops: N e so V o r k ^ S tem Bros.: Boston— Cero- line T. Peabody, j j i Boylslon Sir eel; San Franeisco — W h i l e House, also the Darsy Salon de Jeunesse, j j S StUter Slreel. The laUer shop is auihor. ned to give comfileie Darsy trealmenU

O RD ER Harper s Bazar BY TELEPHONE

T TARPER’S b a z a r has made arrangements ■*- with a number of leading department

stores so that their charge customers may simply telephone and have Harper’s Bazar delivered and charged, to their accounts. The, first of each month brings a new number of Harper’s Bazar.

H o w to care for

Dull HairY ou cannot expect hair which

is naturally devoid of lustre to look brilliant or exceptionally bright after an ordinary shampoo. You must use a shampoo that is different—a shampoo that loill add real beauty to your hair— GOLDEN GLINT Shampoo. This shampoo will make your hair look so much prettier, so much more attractive, that you will just love to fuss with it. In addition to the clean freshness any good shampoo gives, it offers something unusual, something new, something more than a promise. This “ something” is a secret you’ll discover with your first Golden Glint Shampoo. 25c a package at toilet counters ordirect. * * * J. W. KoBi Co., 632 Rainier Ave.. Seattle, Wash.

G old en G lin tSHAMPOO

J, ck ffh x fu x . h d w u fb ■

sTBpTffKOr 'B E A ir r r i^ th e, d ffer erm 'ijttu n m .

Juit JhccpowiLy-<uuL

POUDRECDXDl

eM.ar\tioiu Still) QomHixioii(raniAinif'Cnairi bole!

ilA l t h i h itter zhofu .


.46

L et Sherry Take ChargeW H A T a c o m fo r t in g fe e lin g t o rea lize th a t w h e n

y o u r e tu r n t o th e c i t y . S h e r r y 's w ill b e w a it in g " ju s t a r o u n d t h e c o m e r . "T h ere w ill b e n o eonftision o f new ly-opened tow n houses o r apartm ents i f y o u perm it th e experienced Sherry organization t o take tem porary ch arge o r arrange t o have y o u r pre-season entertainm ents in the charm ing 300 Park A v en u e restaurant.

Estim ates o f Sherry catering service will b e g lad ly given

(p O A ^300 P A R K A'VENUE

5th A V E. at 58th ST. The W ALDO RF ASTO RIACaierino ordtrs in phUcdAphla taken ai the Bdlctue-Stral/ord and in Washington at the Neu> WQiard and Sherry s famous

Frencii Chocolates may be had from selected aeaiers.

A l l day you can look as lovely as w hen you leave your mirror

fie

Y O U can lo o k fresh and ch arm ing at the end o f a day , at th e end o f a journey, even at d ie end o f a dance—

i f y o u t sk in keeps its g lo r io u s c o lo r , its cream ysoftness. . . . A rm and C o ld Cream P ow d er is very fine as w e ll as rem arkably adherent, and o f exquisite qu a liry . A rm and is the o n ly genuine C o ld Cream P ow d er. T h c r c isn o ch in g lik e it . A rm and created i t w ith a m ag ic b it o f c o ld cream as irs base. In W h ite , P in k , C rem e, Brunette T in t N atural and A rm and Flam e (D o u b le B runette). A lw a y s $ i .o o a b o x .

A r m a n dCOLD CREAM POWDERJn 'lh e- P I N K ' & WHfTE ■ BOXES

G U A R A N T E Em attff vh tr* fanhaJtd, i f say A m sa d

fr tJ a d d f o nsr tn tin ly fU a if j s a , ja a may fakf i f baek aad j t o f mamy v i l l h$ ftikrnid.

A R M A N D — D es M oin esP le a s e s e e d me the A m u e d W e e k .e e d P a c k a g e , i e c l u d i e g

th e " C f c c d B e a u c y . ”, , f coiq Gleeclese a s 'L u m p

................................................S t r e e t ...................................................................................................................................

City...........................................................State.....................


MildTsd Cram's Story(C oncluded frctm page 1 4 4 )

B A R P E R ' S B A Z A R

W e o f f e r y o u t h e A r m a n d W e e k end P ackage con ta in in g e ig h t generous sam ples and th e "C re e d o f B ea u ty " b o o k le t fo r o n ly 15c. T here are fou r k inds o f P o w d e r ; C o ld Cream and V an ish in g C ream ; C o ld Cream R o u g e , and M im osa S oap . T h e "C re e d o f B e a u ty " b o o k le t g iv es com p le te d irections fo r using them a ll. C lip th is courxin and send fo r you r A rm and W eek-cncT P ackage to -d a y . A d dress, A rm and— D es M o in e s . In Canada address, A rm and. L td ., St. T h om a s, O ntario.

In the morning B illy woke and, from his bed on a mat thrown down in a corner o f the veranda, stared up at La Sainte who stood, in a blaze o f sunlight, his arms athwart the door.

"T o -d a y , I work. W hen you have breakfasted, Monsieur, I suggest that you explore Talufa. 'You can not lose yourself, since the island is bu t tw o miles long and a half mile across. Y o u can not drown, unless you swim out to sea. T here is nothing to do but to breathe the air and to scratch fleas. I advise you not to flirt w ith the ladies. M y authority here is paternal, and I disapprove o f inter-marriage.”

B iily thought o f Peggy, throwing hack her veil to collect glances as a savage woman collects sharks' teeth!

■ ^ E W Y O R K was far away, he told himself,-*■ ' stretching in the sunlight on the veranda.

W as he already forgotten?H e boiled tw o eggs and opened a can of

sardines for breakfast.Great heavens! W hat a place! Save for

the white hogs grunting in the yard, there was no sign o f life. N othing seemed to happen except the occasional flat thud o f a falling coconut.

There m ust he, B iily reasoned, a M ain Street. A few village belles and dandies dressed up in fresh sea-weed and hibiscus blossoms. Something going on.

H e wondered, ardessly, whether the Talu- fans would like the m ovies. Whether, by any possible chance, they m ight like him? The m agic words “ B illy B ates” w ou ld go well t o a M oody-Saakey tune, for instance. . . .

W ho was r.a Sainte to con.sider himself the sole servant o f mankind? W hat was fuel to laughter?

B illy threw the ^ shells into the yard and rapped on the door o f his host’s workroom.

“ I have had a revelation,” he said, putting his lips t o the keyhole.

“ E6 inen? ” cried L a Sainte from within. “ I see m yself. O bjectively. For the first

time, you understand. I have discovered that I am indispensable!”

La Sainte opened the door. H e cam e out holding a kettle o f evil-smelling liquid. “ E xplain yourself.”

“ B e patient. I intend to .”B illy m ade his fam ous entrance— a shuffle

forward, a quick smile, a half-finished, futile, absurd, lovable gesture w ith both arms.

“ I am B iily ! I have kicked the bearded Santa ou t o f m en’s hearts. 1 have plastered K ris Kringle with a custard pie. Y o u can ’ t keep me out; I get in, w oolly head, feet, t r it i mustache, little straw hat, dog ’s eyes andall. . . . la m B ii ly ! I have a nickname. K o f K , B obs, 'Teddy, Old To-m orrow , Papa JoBre, and B illy !”

“ I never heard o f any o f them ” L a Sainte insisted.

“ I have taken the place o f Pierrot, A rlec- chino o f the Commedia, Punch, Puck, and the marionettes. I am vulgar, m y friend! . I mix tears w ith id iocy. I put the grotesque into love. I tickle duggish m inds. M y recipe is a mixture o flegen da n d p ep , pantomime and beauty, artifice and art.

“ I gargle m y wine and a t on pins. I kiss largely and loudly. I am kicked in the seat o f m y pants and I kick other people in the seat o f theirs. I fall up-stairs and down coal chutes. I put m y thumb to the tip o f m y nose and wriggle m y ten fingers. I wallow in dough and d a p policem en and get drunk. I am as agile as a fly and as supple as an octopus. I am an artist, and I w ill be a legend when you are forgotten.”

“ P rove it ," cried L a Sainte.H e put the kettle down and wiped his hands

on a piece o f waste. “ I t seems that w c have com e to the test,” he said.

Billy felt an excess o f joyous excitement. Seizing an ember from the fire, he blackened his upper lip. H e reduced the brim o f his straw hat with a pen-knifc. H e fashioned a pair o f shoes from pillow -dips and strings. His bam boo cane stood in a corner. A twist o f his curly forelock and he was ready.

’T 'H E people o f Talufa were soft and lazy. 2- “ M ild as milkfed lambs.” L a Sainte said.

H e led the w ay to the clearing before the "store ,” a place o f sharp-bladcd shadows and brilliant flecks o f sunlight.

B illy ’s audience gathered at a d a p o f their w hite chief’s hands. They stared, gentle, uncomprehending— a row o f children; a performing m onkey. T h ey had never seen the like o f B illy before!

H is heart was in his m outh. W hat could he prove? N oth ing beyond tho authenticity o f his genius— he could, or he could not, make

'M

them laugh. P rove himself to himself, once and for all. Establish his piupose. Free himself o f doubt. Guarantee his mission!

T he people o f Talufa would make it forever d ear whether B illy was a press-agent’s creation or a spirit dedicated to the spark o f laughter in the hearts o f men.

B illy swung his cane. H e missed his nose b y an inch. H e bent his cane. I t leaped skyward and he caught it. H e went fo lean on it, wearily, and sat upon the ground instead. A nd the look in his eyes was dumb and sorrowful.

.\ ripple passed across the brown, naked, l o v d y bodies o f the Talufans, as i f they were shaken like little leaves in a wind.

B illy got to his feet. H e ran a few steps. H is feet hurt. T he arch was broken, the soles tender; he maneuvered never to lay them flat on the ground but p u l them down tenderly, w ith a wince.

Old stuff! Old stuff. B u t a shout ot laughter broke the silence o f Talufa.

H e caught them fair— stopped them with a droop o f his narrow shoulders, a discouraged, disheartened, sagging o f head, hands, and knees. H e stood a m oment with his hack turned, (as daring an experiment as any ot M rs. F i f e ’s H edda Gabblings) forlorn and pitiful.

A sigh shook the Talufans.T hen courage returned. H e straightened,

lifted his head, swung his cane, flourished his elbows, kicked up his sore heels and trotted briskly away along the dusty white path to he sea. , . .

A shout went up, a great hiccough of hilarity.

H e cam e back, taking a com er on one foot. La Sainte, shaking his great shoulders,

saluted him.“ Y o u are wasted in T alufa! Go back to

the world!''

'T 'H E R E A F T E R B illy sat on the beach, o- watching the painted sea for a sail. One

Talufan fanned him. Another fed him. Another w ove garlands for his hair.

T h e d ay cam e at last when the M ary Ellen spun dow n the horizon, slipped up to the bar and hove to.

A gain the whale-boat cut through the reef, across the lagoon— in the bow a camera man, grinding a cam era; in the stern another. Newspaperm en clung to the gunwales, their fountain pens between their teeth, risking their toes in those purple waters swarming w ith sharks.

B illy stood upon the beacli, garlanded, shy, wistful, waiting for the close-up.

“ B illy !”“ First word for th e P icayun e!”“ B illy !”"H e llo , boys.”“ Com ing back to us, B illy?”H e turned his profile to the camera. “ Well,

rather.”“ Great stuff. Exclusive rights to the

Times.”B illy raised his hand, bu t the cameras went

o n clicking. Sweet music! “ I ’m glad to know that I ’m not forgotten. I ’m going back. I cam e out here to lose m yself and I found m yself instead. I ’m a drunkard for praise. I ’m a sponge for applause. And I ’m a bear for publicity. Also, I 'm funny, and I know it .”

“ Copyrighted by the Tribunel”“ B illy !”“ Just a nunute. Listen, you fellows. See

that house up there with the tin roof, just beyond the hog? 'Well, there’s a m an up there who’s going to solve the fuel problem for you r greatgrandchildren. H is name is L a Sainte.

“ N ever heard o f h im !”B illy pleaded: " G o pick o u him, you fel

lows, Scatter his photograph over the globe. H e has labored thirty-five years to make the world safe for posterity,”

“ N ot on your life ," the camera m an answered. “ W e’re after the popular giiys. Smile now! Straight into the camera. Thanks!”

“ B ut listen,” B illy cried, “ H e ’s going back w ith m e. H e bas the pinkest, curliest beard in the world. H e has promised to be m y Drom eo, m y Castor, m y M a n F riday!”

T h e newspapermen leaped into the surf and splashed ashore, dragging their

cameras.“ W here did you say he lives? Billyl

T h is belongs to the W orld/ Camera! C opyrighted, B illy ! Exclusive! W here is he?

B illy pointed. H e thought: “ There’s a moral to this, b u l l ’ll be darned if I know what it is.”

A nd he led the way.

h

Tke School Deparlmcnl o f Harper's Bazar has a list o f good schools which still have vacancies. Write Kenneth N. Chambers.


147

t h e m e a d o w l a r k sB e l o n B u l l i t t L o w r y ' s A r t i c l e

(Coiiduded from page 6g)

f o r S E P T E M B E R 1 9 2 4

lor miles about. A n eighteenth-century

Tbout th m BW S ofl horses ^m ost

out o( their systems 4 «,»H ea’sWhite-haired woroen_ oi

lam ed horsewomen-tramed dosyn iik e y o u ^athletes. Perlectly cu t habits s ta rn ^ by the sun and wear o f long years o l ^ ry e r s o l forty five, to i> -th e la m ou sM .lbw n and Stoddard, for “ a m p l p w t h fr^ W th sf curve m instead o f fronts that c » out a« is t h f lo t o i mere males that dwell m cities and ride in limousines 'n^tead ol on horses T he highest ciyic honor ^ man can attain in those parts is that o ( M aster oi

^^°Low white frame housesw ild roses, spraw ling ou t c o m fo rta b ly unrier tb e trees. W ith in , b illia rd room s an d m fon n a l M t ^ 'r o o m s and fa m ily p ortra its a n d low ^

slung chairs lor m ale o c cu p a u o n — h ouses as far rem oved Irom th e o ld -t im e N p i^ o r t

-nrnsfert. Eight o ’ c lo c k breaM ast._ B ed tim ilimousine. E n g la n d -^ in nnt,‘ « i ‘v - carnated. E ight o ’clock hrMktasri Bedtim^ at eleven. T he abstemious sclf-coritroUed lireo l the polo player, the accept.^ ' f t t card the rountrv'ide— for it ju st isn t on the cards to plav good polo i f there be indulgences in

S tbe n r ic h lj^ .o o d o fthe >ieadow B rook C o u n ^ . v u ^ e o f t h e vers- heart o f the polo world on this a d e of t .\tUntic H ere boys ate born t o polo as tne sparks fly upward- Little five veais a~o the little sons o l the lamous sDorting families began playing polo as a ? ? S . c a l l y as other little boys play I ase- ball and yet other litUe boys attend m otion-

' ’ ‘ \ Irs ''T h o m a s H itchcock, as famous a horsewoman as het husband is =-

v o u take the Bernard Shaw version o f the

m odern horsy patron ^ in t rode the herself and U ught them their polo letter^ K tradition has it t h jt ten yeara b ora

t ”tfe fV ^m tt t i A m e r icL andS y m p ic T erm s A jo lly scene the .magma- tion pictures us-

i s X D 50. tw o years pass over boys and A' bea-lo pups and colts and climbing roses.It fa group o f strapping twelve-year-old

vouriKters (o f Penrod age, i f not o f Penrod avocation) whom w e find playing leads m

scene o l our dram a o ! juvenile polo. T h i s n e « f c e n e is “ set u p ” in Aiken. South

trn m g to “ coa ch " the twelve-yeim -oldsin the

’’ " i S b y has polo in the Aiken School attafficd a s e n t im ^ t^ arid 'm portanoe

M e a l f T - l r f p r i o G u w i s o ^ to theM ^ pT uI P r a ira to r y S ch od course of

sp” U is '^ a l''s^ feV °est“ iHshcd in Aiken

^ \ 1 t K J i ' i n " o l ,good sturdy liltle polo players-mternatioiial players are being manufactured

' ‘ ‘ I 'ldeed . the two groups o f b o y s - t h e l i t ^ lads of the school and the M eadow Lark Poffi r i i ib o f voungstcrs— can hardly be d viQeci oil in w two neat parcels. They merge into each other A dow n of the younger boys have been given honorary membership in the M eadow Lark Club. M any o f the Aiken boys are A e younger brothers o f the d u b boys So it has

youths ol the club who were yesterday's

Th'e’X ' s W ho o f these“ lords o f creation” ? W ell first o f all, one naturally mentions

rr-lklr H itchcock “ T om m y’s ' ’ younger brother, since it ,s on the H itchcock field that the club practises and holds its championsh'p matches. Anyway, it is well nigh 'm po^^b'e to discuss any phase o f polo without “ m w on a H itchcock before one is well staited. T he dramatic story of-American polo '* » « • tricably tan ded up with the lortunes of this, iamily— ever since Thom as Senior, was a student at Oxford, where he busied hjniself in learning the gam e o f m lo Irom the P^ptish arm y officers, who, in their turn, had. not som any years before, brought thcO riental gameo f Dolo from India. , . . ..

H e came back to America, brmgmg the love and the science o f the gam e him. A nd that’s how polo crossed the Atlantic and was established at W estchester Country Club, they called it. H ere gathered the fam oi^ s p o r t s r ^ and horsemen ot the ’nineties, ^pr y e a r s ^ o M s . Senior was the m oving spint o f this cluD. W ith his m other an ardent sportswoman, that’ s the material o f which our y o ^ e s t great American polo star, 'Tommy was budded. Tall, strapping youoK Frank with his m op o f sunburned blond bair. is already proving himself o f the same ethnological materiak” r-.-..lin .-R a th b oroe'-Jffieiiffiereisyoui^ J . C o m e liu s ^ th ^ ra e - Sportsman stock, here, too.Cornelius R athbom e, was responsible lor introducing polo into New responsible also m large part for the biiel run that polo had in college a th le tic at Y ale generation ago. a brief and scintiUatin„ run, which came to an ill-advised end be.cause a W was killed in a game. I t is only since the war that polo has been put back 1 rhletics through the influence o f the Reserve o K ’ T r L i ? « t Corps. Y o u -g C ^ , ihan a few ycais hence, ^ ill be having ms S ^ ’ce to ca^ry o n the old R athbom e polo

^ '“ycw-°Sf theS^fuveniles b u t have interesting feature t o tbeir sporting p^iC T ^s. T«tkp vounfi R aym ond Guest o f H is father, Captain the Honorable Frederick E Guest is the chairman o f the P o lo Associa- rion o M h e other side and the m ost in flu en t^ member o f thcHurlinghara Club the “ m an” you w n le t o when challenges are being exchanged and international m atch ^ a r a ^ g S t r R o y , ^ p y . too, is c ^ n ^ c ^ hv birth and b v “ environment w itn tpe great in polo. H is unde by marriage is Louis I t ^ d ^ r d o f the American Team , president o f the Polo Association o l America.

V T O T onlv have these lads “ polo ancestors,N but m ost o f them have polo futures that are being apprmsed and forecast b y the

^ v R ainey is deemed a com ing Number On^ Guest is a h a ^ hitter B ob^yVnnne is a spectacular and oanng I S f H it c h c o * as a Back ^ s an unselfish “ team man. Cram(whose lather is J . Sergeant Ciam ,

Nicholas (whose father ^ ° r ^ yr,( the M eadow B rook Club) is gm erauy reded the best N um ber One o f the jumors though iUness last summer kept him out o l the

£ 5 “ H ? 5 ‘= S o ? fp ™L ar^C lub boys, is captain now of the Harvard polo t e a r B iy p o fo .h as m ade good, and

§ l d ^ T i r C r i " - n o e E n g la n d -th a t is

E m S l H E

S S S S S & sS finished work ol the y o ^ U r a The

“ ‘ l u o f w h ic r t '^ e fo n a n added signifieanoe.

■’ r t n X h r ^ n c e s m y and m igh.v traditions and convincing talking points already coUccted to live up to.

S o th a t out- o u i- o fA o w r v p a t r o n s m a y he a c c ^ r d e aih e c o n v e n i e n c e a i a u tim es o f s e c u r in g origL n a i (^ m e g ie c r ea tio n s 'v e are s e t e c t i n g t h e S m a r te s t S h o p i n e a c h L i t y to co-operate with us in presenting

G O W N S a W R A P S

‘H ^ a t t i e C a r n e q l e ! n cW H O U E S /S L C O E P ’T

© \ A / e s t 4 8 f A .S t , N M



T H I S S P E C I A L O F F E R C O M E S

A T E X A C T L Y T H E R I G H T T IM E

T w o Y e a r s o f H A R P E R ’S B A Z A R f o r $6.00{ J u s t H a l f t h e S i n g l e - C o f y P r i c e )

Ex a c t l y at the right time because ' summer is almost over, your vacation

days are nearly ended and— the important fall fashion numbers of H arper’ s Bazar start with this issue.

Next month, for instance, comes a number you don’t want to miss and that we don’t want you to miss— the Annual Fall Fashion Number of Harper’s Bazar featuring the Paris Openings.

Then, after that, comes the November issue with the new fashions definitely ac

cepted b y the best-dressed women of Paris and N ew Y o rk and then—

But, in ou pre-occupation with these important numbers, we’ re actually forgetting the chief point of this announcement, and that is, it offers you Plarper’ s Bazar at exactly half the price you pay for it by the single copy.

T w o years for six dollars; whereas, bought singly, two years of Harper’ s Bazar would cost you twelve dollars.

I t is a special offer, Isn’ t it? Won’t you take advantage of it?

The News o f Smart Fashions Far in A dvance

ON E purpose to which, in a restless world, H arper’ s Bazar ardently clings

is to give you the news of the mode far in advance of that time it becomes popular and generally accepted.

A fter all one does want to wear a thing before it’ s worn b y everybody. We’ve all

known the anguish of journeying forth in a new frock or hat and then seeing somebody we particularly detest wearing something exactly like it.

And Harper’ s Bazar does tell you, not what is being worn, but what is to be worn. T o repeat a phrase we’ve often used:

H a r p e r ’ s B a z a r

119 W e s t 40TH S t.,N ew Y o r k C it y

1 am going to take advantage of your special offer of two years of Harper’s Bazar for \$6.00. Enclosed is check (or, if you prefer, '' check may be sent when bill is rendered).

(The special offer for Canada is $8.00; Foreign $10.00)

Name.

Street and Number

City and State . . . .

You, know what is smart today—Harper’s Bazar tells you what will he smart tomorrow

I

In its fiction, its neios of society, its illustrations and its other features, Harper’s Bazar is going to be just as interesting as in its fashions. Just as it's going lo be ahead of the mode in fashions, so it’s going to be ahead of the mode in fiction and in illustration. And the coupon (fortunately, we're back on the main subject again), the coupon will bring you Harper’s Bazar for exactly half ike single-copy price,

This Offer Open to New Subscribers Only

\

H.B. 9-54


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Diamond Brand (Visible) Fast Color Eyelets have genuine celluloid tops that never lose their color and that actually outwear the

shoe.Look for the Diamond

Trade Mark ■

The genuine Diamond Brand (Visible) Fast Color Eyelets can be identified by tbe two tiny raised D iam onds on tbeir

celluloid surface.

W omen’s Goodyear W elt Oxfords for summer wear are stylish and correct when finished with visible eyelets. Always insist on Goodyear W elt shoes with Diamonc

Brand (Visible) Fast Color Eyelets.

UNITED FAST COLOR EYELET COMPANYM anu facturers o f

DIAMOND BRAND (VISIBLE) FAST COLOR EYELETS


lOMEN who know Wamsutta Percale are beautiful and lasting gifts for young housekeepers. Sheets and Pillow-Cases like them even Comfortablebecauseoftheirsmooth,flawlesstexture;

—- better than linen. n /i o i ■ . * economical because WamsuttaRich and fine in texture, they y y ] \ / ] ^ M H | A Percale endures. A t the best become lovelier with every r-k r~ r» A i i - shops-in all sizes-plain, scal-laundering. j-J j— / \ | jP loped and hemstitched.

They cost mucn less than fine linen—and but little more than Sheets und PlUow Casesordinary cotton. Here indeed Q?ie Finest Cottons

W A M S U T T A M ILLS • - - N ew Bed fordi M&se.Founded 18 4 6

R ID LE Y W A T T S Sc C O . . M Leonard Sc., N . Y ,SeUing Agcnf$

WuTJuutto Mills also make W AM SU TTA N A IN SO O K — W AM SU TTA UN DERW EAR C LO TH — W AM SU TTA LUSTERSHEER

THK 'iC;iT\VRtNT.K» PRBSS


harper's bazar new york de septiembre de 1924

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