!!!diamond garment cutter - vintage snitovi - super

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Page 1: !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

7/25/2019 !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

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Page 2: !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

7/25/2019 !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

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Page 3: !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

7/25/2019 !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

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Page 4: !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

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Page 5: !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

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Page 6: !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

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Page 9: !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

7/25/2019 !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

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. .

THE

GARriENT

.

Cutter

AUG

XO

1895

.

Book of

Diagrams

.

.

GOLDSBERRY)

&

DORAN

Proprietors . .

.

-~r*>S*^}

3SS

OGDEN AVENUE

CHICAGO,

ILLINOIS.

Agents

Wanted.

OPYRIGHT,

1895.

BY

GOLDSBBRRY &

DORAN,

Page 10: !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

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Page 11: !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

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LADIES'

COSTUME.

/:'

P-

%M

Use

the

scale

corresponding

with

the bust

measure to

draft

the

entire

Waist,

which

consists

of

one-

half

of Waist,

Rolling

Collar,

Vest,

and Standing

Collar,

Sleeve

and

Skirt Trimming.

This

Waist

has no

seams

under

the arm

nor

down the

back.

Take

up

the darts

in front,

close on the

side

with buttons

and

button

holes, take

up

the shoulder seams,

cut the Rolling Collar

double,

in-

terline

with

canvas, and

face

with

silk;

sew to waist,

trim with

vel-

vet.

Get the diagrams

for

the

Sleeves on page

3.

Draft

by

the

bust

measure,

lay the

pleats

to

form

a

triple

box

pleat,

finish

the

sleeve trimming all

around

and place

upon

this box pleat,

tack it in

place. Use

the diagrams

for the

Skirt

on page

4.

Draft

by

the waist measure, interline

throughout

with grasscloth, face

up

the bottom

with velvet,

place

the

skirt trimming on each

side

as

represented.

The Vest

is

made

of

linen.

Use

this

diagram

for the

lining, lay

a

side

pleat down the

center

of the

outside.

Finish

with

a

standing

collar.

Page 12: !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

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LADIES' COSTUME—

Continued.

14

s

4

lG

3

/4

A

7%

in-

10>/4

9»/4

ONE

HALF OF

WAIST.

I

2%

1

2

2V4

I7

'20%

5%//

*>srH'

COLLAR

/.

6

^

_^|

iV

25/

8

%U19

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Page 14: !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

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LADIES' SKIRT.

//

n

NO.

2

U

Center

of

Front

Cut

Double

m

en *»

*^

*-L

C9 to

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BOY'S BLOUSE

WAIST.

Use

the scale

corresponding

with

the

chest

measure to

draft

the

entire

waist,

which

consists of

Front,

Back,

Collar,

Cuff

and

Sleeves.

Face the

bottom of

Blouse

and

insert

elastic

braid.

Regulate the

length by

the

tape

meas-

ure.

£»

OS »

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LADIES' BICYCLE

COSTUME—

Continued.

y

2

iov2 7V2

32H

32

3

/

4

33V

2

33

%

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8

LADIES'

BICYCLE

COSTUME—

Continued.

20V

2

36

H

4V2

©

v,

B

/s

39

3

4

-^

ONE

HALF

OF

BLOOMERS

y*

J03(OT3U

^u

_^HJ?gg?;&i—

53H

13H

19*4

30H

53^

54

3

4

57

58H

59

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LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME.

Use

the scale

corresponding

with the

bust

measure

o

draft the entire

Waist,

which

consists of

Front,

Back'

Side-back

and three

Sleeve

Portions and

Collar.

The

Cape

is

also

drafted

by

bust

measure,

it

consists

of

one-

half of

Cape,

Hood,

Cape

Facing,

Hood

Facing

and

Collar.

Line the

inside of

the

Hood

with

contrasting

material. Sew

the collar to

the

cape

and

button

the

hood

on at the

neck.

Use

any

skirt

given.

Regulate the

length

of skirt

by

tape

measure.

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10

LADIES' STREET COSTUME—

Continued.

3lH^f^

6%

5

1

/*

J

22

3

4

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LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

11

CJ>

V

£

-

L

-?^

rf»

 <

__«>

to

^

FACING

TOR

CAPE

CO

*-•

«D

<I

CiCnOs CO

*->t-i

Page 22: !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

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12

LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME.

Use

the

scale

corresponding

with

the bust

measure,

which

consists

of

Front,

Back,

Side-

back,

Under-arm-gore,

Collar and

three

Sleeve

Portions.

Gather

the

sleeve

puff

at the

bottom

and

sew

to

the

dotted line

on

the lining.

The

lower

part of

the

sleeve

may

be made

of velvet.

The

Coat

is

given

on

pages

14

and

15.

Draft

by

bust

measure:

Front,

Back,

Side-

back,

three

Sleeve

Portions

and

Collar.

Take

up

the

darts

as

represented.

Lay

the

pleats in

the

upper

sleeve

according

to the

notches.

Make

a box

pleat

on

the top.

The

Skirt

is

given

on

page 16. Draft

by

waist

measure.

Trim

to

suit.

Regulate

length

by tape

measure.

35

-

Cn

s

\\

f

\-~~~

a

1

to

ts

1

1

1

SK

Sll)

E

s

Ja.

14-

^4Qr

%:,

3/

7i

'Pa

-A.

'9

<s

ee

S,

e

a*n

4-

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LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

13

(D>S-»

Gather

and

Sew

to

Sleeje

z

p

CO

O

Shirr between

notches

09

09

090909

lid

N

oo

^ NNf-

co

oo

CO

en

^

3

*|.M

CD

CO

>*>

6H

4

3

/

4

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14

LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

&&

S

*

*-

©CO

~3

o>

»-»

its

*s.

CO-J

OJ

CJl

CO

t9

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LADIES' STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

15

6

3

/4

H

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16

LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

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MORNING

WRAPPER.

17

Use the

scale

corresponding

with

bust

measure

to

draft

the entire gar-

ment, which

consists

of

Front,

Back,

Sailor

Collar,

Cuff

and

Sleeve.

The

Back

and

Side-back are cut

together;

cut

down

the center

of

the

dart

before basting, full the

lining

at

-ji/

the waist

line,

same

as a

basque,

gather the

Sleeve

at

the

top

between

the

notches.

Trim with

ribbon

as

represented.

Regulate the length

by the tape

measure.

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18

MORNING WRAPPER—Continued.

SAILOR

COllLAR

50.L

4

X

Cut

Double

o

X

CO

CO

»0

vj»

CHILD'S

UNDERWAIST.

8

l

Ajh

2»/

3

Use

the

scale corres-

ponding

with

the

bust

sv

measure

to draft

by.

Cut

_,.

_,

.

y/2

J

&A

7*/*

the

front

double. Close

in

the

back

with buttons

and

button-holes.

12

3

/4

13

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BOYS'

SUIT.

19

Draft

coat

and vest

by

chest

meas-

ure

and

draft

the

pants

by

hip

measure.

Regulate

the

length

by

tape

measure.

Page 30: !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

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20

CHILD'S

COSTUME

Use the scale

corresponding with

the bust measure

to draft

the

entire

waist

and sleeves.

This gives the

blouse

effect.

Lay

pleats in

front

according to the

notches.

The

io-J

front

and

back

are

for

the

under

waist

or lining.

Gather the

sleeve

puff and

sew

to

-r

the

sleeve

lining on

curved

line.

Draft

the

skirt

by

the

waist

meas-

ure.

Lay the pleats

according

to

the

notches,

and

sew

to

the waist.

Finish

with white

braid.

Regulate the

length by

the

tape

measure.

^-

-

i^tfPac-eSeom

e

#t

i

j.

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CHILD'S

COSTUME—

Continued.

21

it

20

Cut

Double

<B

^*

*-

<s/

1

1

<I

a^

I

/

CD*-

A

-^,

1

^

e^

z

p

r

r

•>

1

1

3

/

dim

|oo

li

p

7yfc

i

1

1

1

Cut|

double

I

'

1

1

 »

H

09

01

01

CO

to

r

1

>-'

A|U

l»{U

Wf-

*

<

*

<

1%

10

3

/4

17%

20

V*

H

CO

O

<

w

H

O

<

27-14

-

29

3

A

<

36

3

/i

39

l

A

00

6

<

46V*

- 48'/*

<]55

3

/*

58%

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22

BOYS

1

SAILOR

SUIT.

To

draft

Waist

use

scale

corresponding with

the chest

measure.

Is in

six pieces: Front, Back,

Vest, Collar

and

two

Sleeve

portions.

The

Vest

is

set

in the front

connecting

the

notches.

Face the bottom

of Waist

and

insert

a

rubber

cord.

The

pants

are

drafted

by

the scale

correspond-

ing with

the hip

measure. The

waist

band is

allowed.

Regulate

the

length

by the tape

measure.

t*

•£%

Ml

££—

\\

*£Ll_

=ft

-&s>

i

z\

*

1 S>

Cut

Double

t*

ta

09

CO

I—

_

St

21%

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BOYS'

SAILOR

SUIT—

Continued.

23

\

3%

5

V

6

4%V—-

io

8

/

4

W

1

iy-

a

26/«

8|(

(

'

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24

CHILD'S STREET

COSTUME.

Use the

scale

corresponding

with

the

bust

measure

to

draft

the

waist

and

jacket.

The

waist

is given

on

page

24.

It consists

of

front,

back

and

sleeve.

Close

it

in the

back,

trim

with

braid,

gather

or pleat

the sleeve.

The

jacket is

given

on page

25.

It consists

of

front,

back,

side-back,

under-arm-gore,

col-

lar

and facing,

and collar

lining,

and

two

sleeve

portions.

Join

the collar to

the front

according

to the

stars,

notches

and

rings.

Gather

or

pleat

the

sleeve

be-

tween

notches.

Use any

skirt

given.

Regulate

the

length

by

the

tape

measure.

fcS

19

ts

I-*

f

c*

00 o»

ts

«s

•j

«»

^

^

iS

^

^

*

NO.

5T

COLLAR

Cut

Double

CO

CO

to

1—

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CHILD'S STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

25

If

ICO

I

Z

0)

?

r

<

l*|B

c

'

4%

6%

7^

©

05

sz;

3

e

Q

CO 00

15

tO

x»|co

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26

LADIES'

DRAWERS.

Select

the

scale

corre-

sponding with

the

waist

measure.

It is in

two pieces:

One-

half of the drawers and

one-half of the band.

These can

be closed

or

left

open.

Gather

the extra

full-

ness

at

the

top

and

sew

to

the

band.

Make

all

allowances for

tucks.

Regulate

the length

by

the tape

line.

LADIES'

DRAWERS.

Use the scale

corresponding with the

waist measure to

draft the entire garment,

which consists

of

one-half

of the

drawers

and band.

Make

allowance

for tucks.

Regulate

by

the

tape

measure.

3^

3|

Q

Z

<

EQ

1-

<

CM

Cut

Double

17i

03

,

[w

l~f

*~

M

C9

\t-r

|*r

Sew

to

Band

1

o

n

O

l

D Z

I

73

m i

>

z

m

r

J3

n

(J)

THE

BOTTOMl

** 03

05

03

ba

co

to

W

03

<j

O

t8|M

68|i-

•e>|>-

*|co

03

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LADIES' STREET

COSTUME.

27

Use

the

scale

corresponding

with Bust

measure

to

draft

the entire waist,

which

consists

of

two

Fronts, Back,

Collar

and

three

Sleeve portions.

Cut

the

back

double.

Close the front

with

hooks and

eyes

. Gather the

upper

sleeves

between

the

notches

to

fit

the

arm's

eye.

Draft

the

Skirt

by

the Waist

measure

it

consists

of two Fronts,

Back and

Side-

gore.

Sew

the narrow front

and side-

gore

together,

then sew

the

upper

front,

side-gore

and

back

in one

seam.

This

gives the

skirt

a

stylish appearance.

The

front

and

side-gore may

be of

velvet,

or

of the

same

material

as the dress.

Regulate

the

length

by

the tape

measure.

Ci

Ci

Or

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28

15

1

/*

LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME—Continued.

11

9

e

8

/4 4

8

/4

CO

to

Cut

Double

to

z

p

00

>

o

>

 

V

>•

1

2

in. Seam

*

O

©»

~J

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LADIES' STREET

COSTUME—Continued.

29

CD

Join

Back.

z

 *

p

£

w

1}

°

«

30

O

Oi

•£>

m

n

I

in. Seam

00

05

CO

If-

-J

OJ

z

o

0)

n

o

z

H

4

Turn

back

for

Facing

Cut

on

this

Line

CD

CD

-a—

r-«-

C5

CO

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30

LADIES'

COSTUME.

I-*

09

t-

1

©

o

GO

Q^s.

£\

1

i

Center

of ,

Back Out

Double

Use

the scale

corresponding

with

the bust measure to draft

the

entire Waist and

Sleeves,

which consists

of

Front, Back,

Side-back, Under-arm-gore,

Col-

lar, Ruffle for the

Sleeve,

Cape

and

two

Sleeve

portions.

Fit

the

Basque

perfectly,

whale-bone

every

seam

and

down

the

front.

Finish

the

bottom

with

knife

pleating,

also

finish

the top

of

the

Sleeve with

pleating

and

a cap.

Trim

the Cape

with

braid

or

vel-

vet

bands. Use

any

Skirt

given

in

this issue. Trim

to

suit.

Draft Underwaist

by

bust

meas-

ure.

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32

LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME.

Use

the scale

corresponding

with

the

bust

measure

to draft

the

waist

and

sleeves,

which

consists

of

Front,

Back,

Side-

back,

Under-arm-gore,

two re-

vere

portions,

vest

front and

three

sleeve

portions.

This

is

a short

pointed

bas-

que;

draft

the same

as

all

other

garments.

The

revere

or large

collar

may be

made separately;,

interline

with

canvas, finish

the

edge

with

guimp

or

jet

trim-

ming.

The

bottom

of

the

bas-

que

may be finished

with

a soft

roll

of

velvet or

silk,

finish

the

back with

a butterfly

bow.

The sleeves

may be

pleated

in

various

ways, or

gathered;

one of the prettiest

ways is

to

lay side pleats, meeting in

the

center or

at point

of

shoulder.

Another

is

to

make

a box

pleat

on

top with deep

side

pleats

on each

side. Always

line the puff part with crinoline,

tarletan or fibre chamois,

the

latter is

the most

durable,

as

the coat

sleeve will

not

crush it.

The

skirt is

drafted

by the

waist

measure;

it consists

of

Front,

Back

Breadth

and Side-

gore.

Line

the back with

hair-

cloth

and

make

a

double

box

pleat

down

the

center.

The

effect

is

very

prett}'

and more

durable

than

the Godet pleats,

or

it may be

gathered or

pleated

in

deep

knife

pleats,

meeting

at

the

center.

Regulate

the

length by

the

tape

measure.

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LADIES'

STREET

COSTUMES.—

Continued.

33

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34

LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME.

—Continued.

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LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

35

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36

BOYS' SACK

SHIRT.

Use

the

scale

correspond-

ing

with

the

Chest

measure

to

draft the

entire

garment,

which

consists of

Front,

Back,

Sleeve,

Cuff,

Collar

and

Shirt

Front.

Make

up

same as

any other

garment.

Interline the

shirt

front

with white

canvas

to

retain

stiffness.

Regulate the

length

by

the tape

measure.

^20

x

4

3

l

/s 1U

10

x

4ff

30

H

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LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME.

37

Use the scale

corresponding

with

the bust

measure

to draft the

waist

and

wrap.

It consists

of

five

pieces:

Front,

back, under-

arm

gore,

collar and

coat

skirt.

The

sleeves

are given

on page

38.

It

may

be

trimmed with

fur

or five

or six

rows of braid

at

the

bottom

of the

skirt

and

also

at

the

waist.

Close in

front with

large

hooks

and

eyes.

The

waist

is given on

page

38.

Four

pieces: Front,

back,

under-

arm-gore

and

side-back.

This

gives

the

pointed

effect front and

back.

Use

any

sleeves.

The

cape is

given

on

page

39.

Is in

six

pieces,

four pieces

for

the

yoke

and collar

combined,

one-half

of

the

cape

and

ruffle.

Line

the collar

with canvas.

Put together

as

indicated,

just

as it

is

in

the

book. Line the

ruffle with

silk.

Sew the

cape,

ruffle

and

collar

(or

yoke)

to-

gether.

It

may

also be

trimmed

with

braid.

The

skirt is

given

on

page

40.

Draft

by waist measure.

Regulate the

length

with tape

measure

z

1

T—i

1

1^1

1

r

a

i^l

,L

r

>

>

J

|CS|M

1

3J

p-

tf»

#>

fP»

£>

05

OI

w

*|M

rf^jM

co CO

[S3 tototo to

(-

l-i

I-

t-<

<I

CO

CO

Cntf^os

00

Cn

rf*.

N

*|M

*>|M

*|M

CD

t^l

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38

LADIES' STREET

COSTUME.—

Continued.

t

3]

'I

'\

A

f

3f

1

/ /

1

|

1

I

(JNDERJ-

8

ARM

 

1

K

1

g

I

GORE i

<s

1

1

1

I

,

1

I

&

m

\«\

i|

1

i

j

/ Waist

Line

,

8

''

'/

No.LH

\

1*

7f

-Jioi

26

?

Page 49: !!!Diamond Garment Cutter - Vintage Snitovi - Super

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LADIES'

STREET COSTUME—

Continued.

39

is

te

m M

Ml-*

Hi

M

M

o

<z> es

<t»

M

40

IC

^

£s. ^

^^

*?

^

-J

Ci

Vx

crj

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40

LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

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LADIES' SEAMLESS

COSTUME. 41

2g-

1

4

Use

the

scale

corresponding

with

the

Bust

measure to

draft

the

Waist,

Collar

and

Sleeve.

This

is

truly

a

novelty,

there

being

but

one seam

in

the waist,

one

in

the

sleeve,

and

one in

the

skirt.

Do

not

attempt

to

cut

this

waist

for a

stout

form,

as

it

can't

be

done

success-

fully.

The velvet

may

be

omitted on

the

waist

if

desirable.

The

chiffon

ruffle

around

the neck

and

down

the

front

would

be

very becoming.

If

the

waist is too

small

when

drafted

out,

make

it

larger in

front,

not

in the

back.

The Skirt is

given on page

42;

is

drafted

by

the Waist measure.

Cut

on

the

straight

of

the

goods

in

front.

Regulate the

length to

suit.

141/a

11V2

23V4

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42

LADIES'

SEAMLESS

COSTUME—

Continued.

CO

<# 10

IN

-*

CO

CT>

G> iH

r-CO

03

05

CO

00

LADIES'

DUSTING

CAP.

Use scale

32

to

draft

this by. Can

be

made

of

any

material.

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44

STOUT LADIES'

COSTUME. -Continued.

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STOUT

LADIES'

COSTUME—

Continued. 45

00

Cut

Double

©

W

>

f

©

w

w

w

 >

L

v,

Inch Scam

1

Join

Side Gore

©

e

SO 00

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46

LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME.

Use

the

scale

corresponding with

Bust

measure

to

draft

the entire

Basque,

which

consists

of Front, Back,

Side-back,

Collar,

Coat

(or

Basque)

Skirt

and two

Sleeve

portions.

Fit the

waist perfectly.

Lap

the

fronts

from right

to

left.

Button or

hook

down

the

side.

After

lining

the

skirt with

silk

to

make

it fall in

grace-

ful waves sew

to the

waist. It may

be

finished

all

around

with

stitching.

The upper

sleeve

is

laid

in box

pleats according to

the

notches.

The

notches represent the pleats,

and

the

stars

the

under

side of

the pleat.

The

skirt is given

on

page

48.

Draft by

the

Waist

measure.

Is

in

two

pieces

Gored

Front and

Bell

Back.

Gather the

center

of

the back

from

the

notch.

Regulate

the

length

by

the

tape

measure.

%/n

Space

Seam

 

K0.4S

SIDE

BACK

[>$?

s

/i

Sp.

Seam

^

C6

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LADIES'

STEEET

COSTUME—

Continued.

47

11

9

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48

LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

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LADIES' HOUSE

DRESS.

49

Ascertain the bust

measure

and use

the corresponding

scale

to

draft

the Basque.

It

consists

of

seven pieces,

as follows:

Front,

Back, Side

Back, Under-arm

Gore,

Collar and

two

Sleeve

portions.

This Basque

is

drafted

out

the

same

as

any

other, but the

effect

is

different. This

gives

a

very

narrow

back

and

rounding

side back.

Cut

the front darts open

in the

center

of

dart and

baste

on

the

lines

given.

(See diagram.)

The

front

of the

Basque may

be trimmed with

embroidery

or

braiding to

correspond with

drapery

if

desired.

The skirt

and

drapery is

drafted by

the

scale

corresponding

with

the

waist measure; lay

pleats according

to the notches.

Regulate

the

length

by tape measure.

COILAE.No.7

D

to

i*r

an

» w

09

^

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LADIES'

HOUSE

DRESS—

Continued.

51

CO

Centre of

Back

g<

.>T

*e

es

Cn.

M

«<

H

*.

>

H

IS

^

frl *

C

lOf

06

>

4

W

to

k

M

<

o

*>l«

M

i <

«

PlCC

P

*T-<]

0

^'

H

»

*1H

H

14

-

hI

£j

46^

46V*

16

V*

80

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52

LADIES'

STREET COSTUME.

Use

the scale

corresponding with

the Bust

measure

to

draft the

entire Jacket

and

Waist. The

Jacket

consists of

Front,

Back,

Side-Back,

Under-

arm-Gore,

Rolling Collar

and

three Sleeve

por-

tions.

This gives the

full

skirt effect.

Gather

the

upper

sleeve all

round

with

very

large

stitches.

Join

the

notch on top to

the

shoulder

seam.

The

waist

consists of

Front

and

Back

Yoke,

and

gathered

portion for

front

and

back.

Close

on

the

shoulder

and under the

arm.

Finish the

bottom with

a

soft

belt

fastened under the

arm.

Use any

sleeve given.

The

Skirt

is

drafted by

the

Waist

measure;

is

in

four

pieces, Front, Back and

two

Side-gores;

one

may

be

omitted

if

desirable.

Regulate

the

length

by

the

tape

measure.

M

O

00^

8

3

4

IS

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LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME.—

Continued

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54

LADIES' STEEET

COSTUME.—Continued.

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LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME.

55

co

it

1

M

H-

00

w

CO

o

*>y

*lco

* >-'

*l«

»lu

Use

the

scale

corresponding

with

the

Bust

measure

to

draft

the

entire

Jacket

and

Waist.

The

Jacket

consists

of Front,

Back,

Side-back,

Under-arm-gore,

Roll-

ing

Collar

and

two

Sleeve

por-

tions.

This

gives the full

Skirt.

Make

as

long

as

desirable.

May

be

made

of any

suitable

material;

face

the Front

and turn

back.

The

full

Waist

is

given

on

page

56,

it

consists of

Front

and

Back.

Gather

the top to fit

the

neck.

It

may

be

made

over

a

lining.

Gather

the

bottom

and

finish

with

a

soft

belt.

The

Skirt is given

on

page

57

Waist

measure.

1*

Draft

by the

Is

in

two

pieces,

Front

and

Back.

Gather

the

center

of

Back from

the notch.

A

very

pretty

finish

for

the

bottom of

Skirts

is

made by

cutting

bias

velvet

1^

inches

wide

and

making

a heavy

cord

by

twisting

candle-wick

loosely,

covering

it

with the

velvet.

Sew

it on

the

bottom

and

face

the

under

side of the

Skirt.

Regulate

the

length

of

the Skirt by

the

tape

measure.

en

»

QO

CO

w

CO

co|o>

CO

CO(Cn

*

1

1

1

1

1

3^4

-

CO

V

 0

r

r

3>

3J

-

+

It

ILO

tip

1

ICO

ll

j

CO

col

1

-

^|H

-

»

1*

<

*

» 05

|

M

C0lM

CO

CO

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56

LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

(JND^R

ARiyi

GORE

Waist

Line

.

V

\

\

No. 4

P

\

\

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LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

57

Cut

Double

CO

z

O

11

>

o

t>

 

2

in.

Seam

to

2

p

Cut

Double

§

^

 *.

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58

LADIES'

HOUSE GOWN.

Use the

scale

corresponding

with the

bust measure

to

draft

the entire

waist,

which

consists

of

Front,

Back,

Side-Back,

Collar

and

two

sleeve

portions. This

gives

the Princess

effect.

Cut

the

front

double.

Close invisibly

on

the

left shoulder

and

under

the

arm.

Finish

the

bottom

with

two

ruffles

of Moire silk.

The

sleeves

are made

of the

same.

The skirt

is

given

on

page

59.

Draft

by the

waist

measure.

This is

the Bell Front

with

a

straight back

breadth.

Trim

the

bottom

with

a

band

of the

Moire

silk.

Regulate

the

length

by

the

tape

measure.

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LADIES'

HOUSE GOWN.—

Continued.

59

If*

If*

«*

01

CO

CO

01

M CO

05

£

03

O

Si

&s

i-

CO

CO

Center

of

Back

Cut Double

M

M

ONE

HALF OF

BACK

BREADTH

No.

15

l/

2

ta._?ejini_

->

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60

MIS8ES'

STREET

COSTUME.

Use

the

scale

corresponding

with

the Bust

measure

to

draft

the

Jacket

and Surplice

Waist.

The

Jacket

consists of

Front,

Back,

Side-back,

two

Sleeves and

three

Collar

por-

tions. Lay two

pleats

in

the back,

join the

notches

and

stars in putting

the

collar together,

line with

canvas.

The

Waist

is

given

on

page

62

three

pieces:

Front,

Back

and Col-

lar. The

back

is

to be worn under

the

skirt.

Gather the

fronts

at

the

shoulder

to

fit

the

back, lap

the

fronts

and

tie

in

the

back.

The

skirt is

drafted

by

the

Waist

measure.

Trim

to

suit.

Regulate

the

length

to

suit.

2V4

6%

S

A

A

^N

1%

$%/l—

2y

8

/

/

/f

©

a.

1

4%

7%

^tr

9

^

3«^^

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MISSES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

61

1—

'

h*

O

to

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62

MISSES'

STREET COSTUME—

Continued.

oolci

o

  a

o

2*

22i(V^

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MISSES'

COSTUME.

63

Use the

scale

corresponding with

Bust

measure

to

draft

the

entire

Waist,

which consists

of Upper and

Under

Fronts,

Upper

and

Under

Backs, Side-back

and

Under-arm-

gore,Bretelle, Sleeve

Ruffle

and

two

Sleeve

portions.

Gather

the

upper

front

and

back and join

in

with

the

under-arm-gore. Finish the

bottom

with

a

ruffle about

four

or

six

inches

wide.

The sleeve ruffle

is

cut

double

—this

one is the

under

one

cut

the

upper

one

shorter.

The Skirt

is given on page

64.

Draft

by

waist

measure.

Trim

to

suit.

Regulate the length

by

the tape

measure.

c<

7

s

In

3

 -4

f—

—^^*jari

 V

s&<

-

1

XtX

I

•—

*** *-•

i\

1

i

i

1

\^

1

«*

M

H» 00

#>

t*»

to

^

v?

£

^

JS^

^

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64

MISSES'

COSTUME—

Continued.

 -^kt^^BSS

»

i

No.

A 6

ONE

HALF

OF FRONT

©*

to

o

Cut

Double

to

©

ONE

HALF

OF

BACK

BREADTH

No. A

6

cc

©

©.

Hi

r

05

CO

to

to

Va

In. Seam

5*4

UH

L«l

a

©

1

a

3

1

/*

S

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CHILD'S

APRON.

65

Use

the

scale

corresponding

with

the

bust measure. Is

in

four

pieces

front,

back,

side

piece

and

band.

Join

back and

side

piece

at

the

shoulders;

sew

in

the

front,

and

face

all

around. Any

style of trimming

may

be

used. Regulate

the

length

by

the

tape

measure.

BAND

NO.

4

D

iv;

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66

Use the

scale

corresponding

with

the

bust

measure to

draft

the

Coat,

Vest, Front

and

Under

Waist.

The

coat consists of

five

pieces:

Front,

Back,

Collar

and

two

Sleeve

portions.

This

is

drafted

and the

different

parts

put together

the same

as

all

other

garments.

The under waist consists

of

one

piece.

Sew up the

back

seam, lap the fronts

across

each

other

and

close

with

buttons

and

button

holes.

The

vest consists

of

one

piece.

Close

in

front

with

buttons and

button

holes.

The skirt is drafted

by

the

scale

corresponding with

the

waist measure.

Lay the

pleats

according

to

the

notches,

press

carefully and

sew

to

the

under

waist.

Regulate the

length

by

the

use

of

the

tape

measure.

BOYS'

STREET COSTUME.

4*4

Jl%

6V44

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BOYS'

STREET COSTUME—Continued.

67

la'/Af

13

^

t*i-

 

COLLA

j4

Space

Seam

VEST

FRONT

No. A

9

99

t» to

l-k

H>

uo

H

^

S3

fcH

 4

©

a

C

e+

<S

M

1^

E9

Ms

ft

o

S5

H*d

A

A

A

A

A A

A A

A

A

A

A A

A

A

era

^-

M- tf*

99

CO

GO

tc u>

rs to h*

l-i

O

•j

ts

00

A

I-*

«9

era

99

*

CS

t» o

O

99

^w

tf

•-S

8

^

JR

99

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68

LADIES'

NIGHT

GOWN.

-

*

<

/H

1

i

COLLAE

C5K

fi

w

Use

the

scale corresponding

with

the bust

measure

to draft

the entire

gar-

ment.

It

is in four pieces—

Front and Front Yoke,

Back and

Collar. This

is

a

Mother

Hubbard

front

and

plain back.

Use any

plain

sleeve

given

in

this

issue.

Regulate

the

length by

the

use

of the tape

measure.

»8%

 

1

5^414

W

15*

15Vs

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LADIES'

YOKE.

69

Use

scale

corresponding

with

the

bust measure.

Is

in

two

pieces:

Front

and

Back.

10%

51/2

4

8I-/-J-

S

'

Sew

Shirring

on

This Line

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70 INFANTS'

MOTHER

HUBBARD DRESS.

JlJU'I

^n

drafting this

garment

use the scale corresponding

with

the

bust measure.

i

Is in four

pieces: Front and

Back Yoke,

one-half

of Skirt and Sleeve.

This

is drafted

out

upon

the

general

plan of work.

Gather the Skirt and

sew

to

the

Yoke;

the

Front and Back

of

the Skirt are

cut

alike.

Make

all allowances for

the

tucks.

Regulate

the

length

by

the

tape

measure.

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LADIES'

COSTUME. 71

Use the

scale correspond-

ing

with

the

bust measure

to

draft the

entire

waist, which

consists of

front,

back, side-

back,

collar and two

sleeve

portions.

This

is

a

plain,

straight,

round basque;

it may

be

cut

pointed

or

rounding, just to

suit.

The back

seam

may

be

left

open to

the

waist

line

if

desirable.

The

skirt

is

drafted by

the waist

measure. Lay

the

pleats according

to

the

notches

in

the

back

do

not

press

the

pleats,

however.

Trim

the

bottom

with stitch-

ing

or

braid.

Regulate

the

length

to

suit.

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72

LADIES'

COSTUME.—

Continued.

Z

o

Cut Double

05

(51

_

t-

-

&&g

'H< <»

1

 

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LADIES'

PRINCESS

GOWN

73

Use

the scale

corresponding with the

Bust

measure to draft

the

entire

garment,

which

consists of

Upper

and Under

Fronts

and

Shirring

for Front,

Back, Side-back,

two Cuff portions,

Sleeve

Puff and

two

Sleeve

portions for the lining.

The

Back

gives

the pointed train effect.

Place

the

waist line on the

straight of

the

goods. Shirr the portions

given

for that

purpose and

join in the under-arm dart.

Fasten

at

the

waist

and

just

over

the

bust

with jeweled embroidery,

also trim the

deep

sleeve cuffs with

the same.

Finish

the

inside

of the cuff

with fancy

buttons.

Gather

the puff at the

top

and

bottom and

fasten

to

the

lining.

Finish

the bottom

with

a

band

and let

the

cuffs

come

over

it.

Fit

the cuff

very closely

at the wrist.

This

sleeve

is

suitable for

almost

any

garment

except an outside

wrap.

Regulate

the

length

by

the tape measure.

i5f

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74

LADIES'

PKINCESS

GOWN—

Continued.

491

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LADIES'

PRINCESS

GOWN.—

Continued.

75

Cut

Double

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76

CHILD'S

DRAWERS.

Use

scale

corresponding

with

waist

measure.

Is in two

pieces;

one-half

of

Drawers

and one-half

of

Waist

Band.

No

allowance

is made for

the

tucks.

Ct

Oi

21

ji)/4

3

8

/8_A

//

^

u

2J

*

5

llfc

1

It

ONE HALF

OP

CHILD'S

DRAWERS

%

\

1

s\\

NOJo

N

V

\\

*

i

\\

|

^*„

1

^/gVg

4

\

\

H,

l

/4

tv

22

S/

\^

 

^

i

*

6

 ~

15*

4k

*V4

14

16^4

18

H

19

H

WAIST

BAND

N0.5N

LADIES'

SUN

BONNET.

For

a lady

of

medium

size

use scale

32.

This

is

drafted

as

all other

garments.

The

dotted

lines

across the

top

are

to

represent

stitching

or cording.

Interline

the

same

with

two or

more

thicknesses;

gather

the

back

part

and

join to

the front,

connecting

the notches,

shirr the

back part,

insert

a tape

and

draw

back

to

suit

the

wearer.

Any style

of

trimming

may be

used.

This

can

be

cut

longer

or shorter

to suit.

20V4

2o

5

/

8

LL

21

8

4

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LADIES'

PRINCESS

GOWN.

77

Use

the

scale

corresponding

with

the

bust

measure

to

draft

the

entire

garment,

which

consists of Right,

Left

and

Under,

Right

Front, Back, Side-Back,

Collar

and

two Sleeve

portions.

This is drafted

the same

as

all

other

garments.

Lay

the

pleats

in the

back accord-

ing to

the notches,

forming two double box

pleats.

Gather

the

right

front at

the

shoulder to

fit

under front.

Lay

two

pleats on

line

beginning at

19%

on base-line, fasten on left

side

with

a

hook

and loop. Lay two

upward turning

pleats

on

right

side.

Trim to suit.

The

Skirt

is given on

page

79.

Draft

by

the

waist

measure. Any

other

full skirt may

be

used.

Make the

over

dress and

skirt

the

same

length.

00

^

—*

00

*-gp_ace

Seam

|

~~\

T71l-

k

4-J

IS

t^

1^

«•*

^

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78

LADIES'

PRINCESS

GOWN—

Continued.

isj^y^

7

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LADIES' PRINCESS

GOWN—

Continued.

79

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80

LADIES'

COSTUME.

Use

the scale

corresponding with

the

bust

measure

to

draft

the entire

waist

and sleeves, which consist of

Front,

Back,

Side-Back,

Under-arm-

gore,

Collar,

Bretelle and

three

Sleeve

portions.

This

basque gives the point-

ed

effect

both back and

front.

Put

the

parts

together

as

usual. Whale-

bone

every seam. Line the

bretelle

with

soft

silk. Gather all

around

and

sew

to waist,

forming

a

point

both

front

and

back.

Gather the

balloon

sleeve

all

around

the top.

The

Front of the

skirt is given on

page

81. The

two Side-gores

and

Back are

given on

page 82.

Draft

by

the

waist measure.

Trim

to

suit.

Regulate the

length

by

the tape

measure.

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LADIES'

COSTUME—

Continued.

81

r/a

Va

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82

LADIES'

COSTUME—

Continued.

®»

*••

>*»•

1*

«

o

•J

>.i

^ ^

©5

H*

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MISSES'

COSTUME.

83

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84

MISSES'

COSTUME.

s

%r^

Use

the

scale corresponding

with the

bust

measure

to

draft

the

entire

waist

and sleeves,

which

consist of

two

Fronts,

two Backs,

Collar and

three Sleeve por-

tions. Cut

the

front double and

close in

the

back.

Gather the

upper

portions

at

the

shoulders and

waist

line.

The

upper portions

and

skirt may

be

made

separate

and

worn

with

various

waists.

Gather

the

puff

for

the

sleeve,

and sew

on the

dotted

line,

or

higher up if

a

deeper cuff

is

desired.

The

Skirt

is

given

on page

85.

Draft

by

the

waist

measure.

Regulate

the

length

by

the

tape

measure.

4 /4

3

18

NO.

9C

J

COLLAR

w

ll

3

/4ll 10

10

3

/4l0

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MISSES' COSTUME—

Continued.

85

SLEEVE

LINING

n

5J

10

13|

1^

18

19'i

83

Shirr

and

sew

to

waist

ONE

QUARTER

OF

SKIRT

N0.8L

33

42

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86

CHILD'S

COSTUME.

Use

the scale corresponding

with

the bust measure

to

draft

the

entire

waist

and

sleeves.

The

gimp is

in six pieces,

Front,

Back,

gathered Yoke

and three Sleeve portions.

Gather the yoke all around

and

sew

to

the waist at

neck

and

dotted

line.

Shirr

at

waist

line and insert

elastic.

The

Over

Dress

Waist

con-

sists

of

Front

and Back. Finish

the

top with

a deep

ruffle.

Make

it narrow

at

center

of

Front

and

Back.

The

skirt

is given

on page

87.

Draft

by

the

waist

meas-

ure.

Gather at

top and

sew

to

waist.

Trim

to

suit.

[

9V8

8/

4

J_

Shirr on

These Lines

10

v*

3

1H

10

H

13^

13

S/4

14

S

/4

17V4

18

1

/*

3Vs

,1/

X*y

8/

'4

I

8

S/

4

/^

L

_

j

Shirr

on

These

Lines

1

2%

9V»

13

14

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CHILD'S

COSTUME.—

Continued.

5 4

87

20

V.

A

'

ft

M

ft

o

ft

ft

H

ft

©

ft

O

}

20

Vg

r

47

fe

,4%^

13J/3

(.5*4

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88

MISSES'

EVENING

GOWN.

CO

CO

Use the

scale

corre

sponding

with the bust

»h

measure

to

draft

the entire

garment, which

consists

of

Front

and

Back

for

the

under

waist, and Front

and

Back for

the

over-

dress.

Gather the

upper

£h

portion

at the

top

to fit

the

neck.

It

may be

gathered

at

the

waist

also

if desired. Finish

the

neck

with

a

lace

bertha, put

the same

lace

in

the arm-

holes.

Drape it up

to the

shoulder,

make

it

very-

full. A ribbon

belt with

&i

7W

loops

and

long

ends

finishes

the

waist.

Trim

the Skirt with

ribbon

bows and

bands.

Use

any

light

weight material.

Regulate

the

length

by

the tape

measure.

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LADIES'

COSTUME.

89

cs

a?

-^^l

I-*

^^~-~

 *>v

;

S/

4

Space

Seam__.

, In*

/I

OS

11

^

i—

h*

I-*

//

^

-fA

4—

G0>

GO

o

ST

i

©

as

P

\

9

\

#\

\

B

1 \

?

H

*\

\

3

a

^

1

,

tf»

/

2s*

\

f

to

*

>

to

to to

l-l

H*

ce

os

l-k

cs

©»

^

J?

»

s

oo

C5

Use

the

scale

corresponding

with

the

bust

measure to

draft

the

entire

Waist,

which consists

of

Front

and

Back, two

Sleeve

portions,

Puff

and

Ruffle

for

the

top

of sleeve.

This

is

a

blouse

Waist, may

be

worn under

the

skirt or over,

just

to

suit.

The front is

gathered at the

shoulder

to

fit the

back, gather

the

back at

the

neck.

Gather or

pleat

at the

waist between

the

notches, finish

with

a

soft belt,

close

invisibly.

Gather

the

Puff

and

sew to the

dotted

line

on

the

sleeve

portions.

Line the Ruffle

with

silk

and

sew

in

with

the

sleeve. The

seamless Waist

is

given for

the

lining.

The Skirt

is

given

on page

91.

Draft

by the

Waist measure.

Is

in

three pieces,

Front, Back and

Side-ffore.

Gather the

Back

at

the

top.

Trim

the bottom

with

folds or

any

trimming

desirable.

Regulate the length by

the

tape

measure.

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90

LADIES'

COSTUME—

Continued.

13

a

A

G%

5

7V4-6

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LADIES'

COSTUME—

Continued.

91

ONE

HALF

BACK

BREADTH

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92

BOYS' SUIT.

Use

the

scale

corresponding

with

the

breast

measure

to

draft

Waist

and Jacket.

The

Jacket

is

in

five

pieces,

Front,

Back,

Collar

and

two

Sleeve

portions.

The

Waist

is

in two

pieces,

Front

and

Back.

Use

any

sleeve

given

.

The

skirt

is

drafted by

the

waist

measure.

Lay

the

side

pleats

according

to

the

notches.

Regulate

the

length to

suit.

fin

*;

00^

15^

tc\

SCO

7V2

17 1/2

11/4

173/4

63

/

4

fin

fin

fin

*•

#> n-

CO

CO

to

IS

00

cs to

QD

•v»

W «©

fin

*

iST

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LADIES'

LONG

WRAP.

93

Use the scale

correspond-

ing with the Bust

measure

to

draft

the entire

garment,

which

consists

of Front,

Back,

Side-back,

Collar

and

two

Sleeve

portions.

The

back

may

remain

open from

the

line below the

waist

line, or

lapped

over. Press

but

do

not

tack

down.

Lay

side pleats on the top

of

the sleeve according

to

the

notches.

Regulate the length

by

the

tape

measure.

s?£=«S\

50

8

A

51

1

/*

51V*

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94

LADIES'

LONG

WEAR—

Continued.

**

1-1

•J

Or

to

 ^

\C0

l^»^

*»$

CD

S&

.$•

3

5

%

•to

00

to

OS

to

)->

©

©

to

QD-KIC5

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MISSES'

STREET

COSTUME.

95

Use

the scale

corresponding

with

the

Bust

measure

to

draft

the

entire

waist, which

consists of Front and

Back of

Yoke, and

gathered

portions

for

Front and Back,

Collar,

Ruffle

and

two

Sleeve portions.

Gather the

lower

portion for

the

waist

and sew

to

the

yoke.

The

ruffle

may be

lined

with

silk

and

sewed

in the same seam

Close

down

the front

invisibly.

Gather

the

sleeves

to

fit

the

arm's

eye.

The

Skirt

is given

on page

97.

Is

in three

pieces, Front, Back and Side-

gore. Gather

the

top

to

fit

the

waist.

Trim

to

suit.

Regulate

the length

by

the

tape

measure.

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96

MISSES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

2l

/^

^

//

BACK*

^

^

YOKE

A

\

\

\

\

\

x

A

\

No. 13

O

\

\

\

\

0)

3

3

O

fi

3

O

3

\.

\

 ~-^

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MISSES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued

97

a>

CO

©

Cut

Double

O

;>

^

ONE HALF

OF

BACK

BREADTH

H

'

©

No.

A

6

Ms

'

l

V

V2

In.

Seam

v.

It-

to

IS

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98

MISSES'

PRINCESS

DRESS.

Use the scale

corresponding

with

the

bust measure to

draft the

entire

garment, which

consists

of Shirring

for

Front and the

lining,

Front,

Back, Rolling Collar,

Sleeve

Ruffle

and

two Sleeve

portions.

Draft

same as

all

other garments.

Shirr

the

front at

the

neck

and

on the

dotted lines

marked;

sew

to

the

lining.

Turn

down the

side

front

and

fasten to

the

shirred

front.

Close

on

the

left

side

with hooks

and

eyes.

Lay pleats in

the

center

of

back according

to notches. Dine

the

ruffle

for

the

sleeve.

Gather

the

top

and

sew

in

with

the

sleeve.

Regulate

the

length

of

the

entire

dress

by

the

tape measure.

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MISSES' PRINCESS

DRESS—

Continued.

99

12

s

/s

ft

141/2

°

1/2

SHn6

V*

VA

2

3

/4

3V2

SHIRRING

FOR

FRONT.

Shirr on

thi

s

Line

_

Shirr

on this

Line

11

12

14V4

©

S*5

e

s

o

Q

s

u

^nLi

37

J

37V4

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100

CHILD'S

WRAP.

Use

the

scale correspond-

ing with

the bust measure

to

draft

the

entire

garment,

which

consists

of

Front,

Back,

Collar,

Cape, two

Sleeves and

Skirt.

Gather

or pleat

the skirt

and sew

to

the waist

;

trim

the

cape

with fur

or

braid.

Regulate

the

length

by

the

tape

measure.

V/z

cs 19

no

•a

«a

&

Hen

©

64

H

QD

H

3

-

»

O

M

Kj

o

K

B

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MISSES'

WKAPPER.

101

Use

the

scale corres-

ponding

with

the

Bust

measure to draft

the

en-

tire

garment,

which

con-

sists of upper and under

Fronts,

upper

and under

Backs,

Side-back and

three

Sleeve

port

io n

s.

This

wrapper

is

suitable

for

a

Miss or

a

Lady.

Cut the

upper

portions

out

at

the

neck.

(See diagrams.)

Gather

and

sew to

the

un-

der front

and back.

If

de-

sirable

the

Front

may

be

shirred

at

the Waist

line,

same

as

the Back.

Gather

the upper Sleeve

and

sew

to

the lining.

Regulate

the length

of

the

Skirt

by the tape

measure.

52y

52

3

A

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102

MISSES'

.^WRAPPER—

Continued.

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CHILD'S

STREET COSTUME.

103

Use

the

scale

corresponding

the bust measure

to

draft

entire

garment,

which con-

of two yoke

portions,

collar,

two

skirt portions.

Lay

box

in back and

front

according

the notches,

and sew

to

the

Trim the pleats

with

Regulate

the

length

of the

by

the

tape

measure.

No.

4 K X

o

10

29|

30

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104

CHILD'S

STREET

COSTUME.

—Continued.

6&r*=^-»-/*

J_l%__

a

1

/.

7

X/

s

7

V*

MISSES' COSTUME.

Use

the

scale

corresponding

with the bust

measure

to draft

the

entire

waist

and

sleeves,

which

consists

of

two

fronts,

two backs,

and

ruffle

for

over the

shoulder.

Make

of

any

suitable material.

Finish

with

briar

stitching

or

any other

decoration.

Use any

sleeves

given.

Draft

the

skirt

by

the waist

measure.

Trim

to

suit.

Regulate the

length

by

the

tape

measure.

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MISSES'

COSTUME—

Continued.

105

M

©

£3

3

on

10

y,

44

45%

47

x

/4

48

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106

BOYS' SACK

COAT.

to

to

to

*-

H*

I-*

«.<

*•

h*

GO

00 C

^

^

^

BOYS'

SUIT.

Use

the

scale

corresponding

with the

bust

measure

to

draft

the

Coat and

Waist.

The

Coat

consists

of

Front,

Back,

Collar

and

two

Sleeve

portions;

this

is

a

double-breasted

Sack Coat.

^

The

Waist

is

given

on page

107;

is in five

pieces:

Front,

Back,

Sleeves,

Belt and

Cuff.

Lay

the

pleats according

to the

notches.

Draft

the Kilt

Skirt

by the

waist

measure.

Lay

the

pleats

according

to

the

notches.

Regulate

the

length

by

the

tape

measure.

I-*

t-^

SB

QC M

to

IO

I-

1

N-

M

^4

0-

>P

IP

££*

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BOYS'

PLEATED

WAIST

AND KILT

SKIRT.

107

10i_9|8|

6i

5i

9

8 7 5j

i\

3J

20

e

V

8

1»4

12

13%

So

3

9j8j

7i

Cut

Double

M

DO

fa

o

fa

<

w

fa

sz;

o

©

A-

*

l

1

/*

<8

V4

io

3

/*

<17

20

V*

27V4

29

3

/*

39%

*

20

46V*

48

3

A

55

3

A

58V*

62V4

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108

LADIES' CAPES.

Use

the scale

cor-

responding

with

the

bust

measure to

draft

both

garments.

The

first

one,

No.

H

14,

is

a

circular

cape;

line

the

garment

with

silk

or

any suitable

material. The

sec-

ond

one,

No.

H

16,

consists of

four

pieces: Front,

Back,

Sleeve

and Collar.

Join

the

different

parts

as

they

are

-marked,

connecting

the

stars and

rings

lay

the

pleats in

the

sleeve

according

to

the notches;

press

carefully

but

do

not

tack

down. Make

of

any

suitable

ma-

terial.

Regulate the

length

to suit.

^

CO

^M

CO

CD^,

-0?

bS

S/

z

o

^X

M

0

CO/

I

r

1

r

/V\

//

w

>

 

-3

1

4/

CC

01

If

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110

LADIES'

COSTUME—Continued.

*a *~

*0

s?

CO

to

JO

to 10

•^ o

n*

tf

H-otocoeooo-j

c>wi£>cococo

>»sf

nj

^r

«£*??

-?

1

-i*

O0 OS^OO^CO^

CO*

00

so

5%

4V

a

s

1

/*^

':

19

Yk

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LADIES'

COSTUME—

Continued.

Ill

Or

OS

Box

Pleat

-*

G)

Ox

£1

?£x

1

t

5

^aA^2£^

CO

CO

CO

CD

«3

toll-

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112

LADIES'

COSTUME.

j\

BACK

COLLAR

i

u

Y$

N0.8 R.

r~

Its

1

&

in

\£_r^

is

IB I

IB

1

fb.

CO

Use

the scale

corresponding with

the bust

measure to draft

the

entire

Waist,

which

consists of

Seamless

Waist, Revere,

Ruffle

for bottom

of

Waist,

Back

Collar and Standing

Collar,

Ruffle for

top

of Sleeve, and

three

Sleeve

portions.

Put

the

dif-

ferent

parts

together in the usual

way.

The

Skirt is given

on

page

114.

Draft

by

the

waist

measure;

it

con-

sists

of the

Skirt

and

Pleated

Panel.

Lay

three

side

pleats in the

panel:

cut

the

skirt

open

on one

or

both

sides

and

insert

the panel.

Regulate

the

length

by

the

tape

measure.

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LADIES'

COSTUME—

Continued.

113

11

9

1L__

2

IX

A

/

'

n|%

/

'

^^

i-r

//

 

^7

1

//

/ /

SLEEYE

'

i

/

/

jn

 */

T~

II

1

l

/

12 il

|/|

N0.8A

iili

l

a

*/

s»l

i

1

L%_

_

r

\\

\\

\\

m

\

\

\

\

\

\

\\

\\

\\

\\

\\

\\

A

\\

\\

3VVk

^

2V„

5V

4

10

^

16

18

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114

LADIES'

COSTUME—

Continued.

©1

#*

©

SO

CO

QC

to

*—

*+

CO

00

e*

£

^

£

/rrcocoeoco

co

co

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LADIES' STREET

COSTUME.

115

05

05

«I

If

Mil-

the

scale

corresponding

with the

bust

to

draft

the entire

waist

and

sleeves,

consist

of

Front,

Back, Side-Back,

Rolling

Collar

and

Underwaist.

may

be

made up

in

a

Jacket

just

for

or a Bodice for the

house

and street. Sew

the

in

the under-arm

dart and

shoulder

seam,

close

down

invisibly with

hooks

and

eyes. If this

is

intended

street

Jacket,

make

the

waist

from

the

diagram given

116;

there being

only

the under-arm-seams, cut

double.

Be very

careful where

you

lengthen

the

lines.

To

lengthen

the

back,

lower

the two

bottom

27

and

27^;

and

to lengthen

the

front, lengthen

top

line,

12^,

and

the

third

cross line,

17,

making

changes

on these

cross

lines

you

have made

on

the

bottom

lines. The

Skirt

is

also given on page

116.

by

the waist

measure.

Gather

the front.

Lay two

in

the

back.

Trim

to

suit.

the

length

by

the

tape measure.

fc3

CD|M

t-S

if*

O

»|M

1-1

m

00

<3

If*

N

I-

tasa

*l^

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116

LADIES'

STREET COSTUME—

Continued.

^^»

#>

(£>

 

03

'

W

/*

-

09

Ol

'

H

a

o

<

WJJ

_^M

^M

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BOYS'

COSTUME.

117

Use the

scale

corresponding with

the

chest

measure

to

draft the

entire waist,

which con-

sists

of

two

Fronts,

two

Backs,

Belt,

Cuff

and

Sleeve.

This

is

a

Russian

Blouse.

Gather

the

upper

back

at

the

neck

and waist

line,

also

the

left

front;

fasten down the

right side;

make

the

belt of

the same material

as the trimming.

The pants are

drafted

by the

hip measure.

Make

the

leg as

wide

as desirable; hem

the

bottoms and insert

a

rubber cord. Regulate

the

length

to

suit.

NO

9 D

BELT

8/.

Bpac«_Scoro_

^i

Va-IiifhScam_

to

CO

<s\

to

IS

W

c

o

o

B

C

UPPER

BACK

N0.9D

Waist

line

Va

7

14

rv*'

33%

34

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118

BOYS'

COSTUME—

Continued.

8

/

4

18

r_1,c

 

18fj

21^2

4;£-

6^4,

3^3

-U8

8

/4

18/8

J

19 /8

cuifp

i_J

 

'

>

U

8

/4

is

1%

3

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BOYS'

SUIT.

119

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120 BO^S'

SUIT—

Continued.

CHILD'S

APRONS.

Use

scale

corresponding

with the

bust

measure.

It

is

in

two pieces:

One-half

of

Front and

Tie.

Ribbon

can

be

used

for

the

ties,

if

preferred.

Regulate

the

length

by

the tape

measure.

OS

' )

»

A

o

to

APRONTIE N0.2C

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LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME.

121

Use the

scale corresponding

with

the

bust

measure

to

draft

the

entire

gar-

ment, which

consists

of

Front,

Back,

Side-back and

Collar.

This

Front

may

be

made

up

plain

or pleated.

If made

plain, draft

the pattern

out

just as

it

is

here. Lay

the

pleats

on

the

paper,

pin

them in

place,

which

will give

a

plain

front; lay

the

pattern on

the

cloth

and

cut

it

out.

But if the

pleated

garment is wanted,

do

not

lay

the

pleats

in the

pattern

but in the

cloth.

The

diagrams for

the Cape

are

given

on

page

122.

Draft

by the

bust

measure;

it consists

of

one-half

of

Cape,

Collar

and

Sleeve

Pad.

Baste

up

the

shoul-

der seam, gather in the extra

fullness,

gather the

sleeve pad

and

sew

in

the

top

of

the sleeve. Regulate

the

length

to

suit.

•J.

lOO

o'r

*f

 

tor

i

IS ta

t*

©

©

100

4

L_

-J

i._4.J

or>

»j*j

©stow is

>—

IlVa

8%

Li-

JaSE

/

I7

l

4

5

,

i1

5

l

/

8

8'42

S

4

9%

11

UL

No. I>1

27Va

,1%

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122

LADIES'

CAPE.

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GENTLEMEN'S

SUIT.

123

GENTLEMEN'S

SUIT.

To

draft

the

Coat,

use

the

scale

corre-

sponding

with

the

chest

measure

taken

moderately

tight over

the

Vest.

The

Coat

consists

of

Front

and

Skirt,

Back,

Side-Back,

Collar

and

two

Sleeves

por-

tions.

Sew

the

Skirt

to

the

front

and

side-back.

The

Vest

is

given on

page

125.

Use

scale

corresponding

with chest

measure

taken

moderately

tight

under

the

Vest,

which

is

in

two

pieces,

Front

and

Back

.

The

Pants

are

given

on

page

125.

Draft

by

scale

corresponding

with

hip

measure.

Regulate

the

length

by

the

tape

measure.

The

Overcoat

is

given

on

page

126.

Use

the

scale

corresponding

with

the

chest

measure

taken

over

the

Coat

and

Vest.

It

consists

of

Front,

Back,

Collar

and

two

Sleeve

portions.

2%

CO,

Id

z

61/2

100/2

103,14

27

3

A

101/*

.11/2

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124

GENTLEMEN'S SUIT—

Continued.

117/1

to

NO..E13,

WAIST

BAWD

M

A_

tsS

12ljz

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GENTLEMEN'S SUIT—Continued.

125

51/s

37/8

191/8

193/4

05

O

03

I-

1

CD

If

OS

S^a

o

42.

-<w5p

_M iS^

S

1

CD

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LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME.

127

t5|M

Ulh-

Use

the scale

corresponding

with

the

Bust

measure

to draft

the

Waist

and

Jacket.

The

Jacket

is

given

on

page

127.

It

is

in

two

pieces:

Front and

Back.

The

Waist

is given

on page

128,

is

in

six

pieces:

Two

Upper

Fronts,

Under

Front,

Back, Side-Back and

Under-

Arm-

Gore.

The Right Front

is

gathered

at the

bottom between

the

notches,

close

on

the

left side

with

buttons

or

hooks.

The

cuff

is

given

on

page

127,

the.

Sleeve,

Collar

and Skirt on

page

129.

Draft

the

Skirt

by the waist

measure,

take

up the

darts (or gather

across the

front),

just to

suit

the

wearer,

lay the

pleats in

the back according

to

the

notches,

cut on the

straight of

the

goods

in front.

Regulate the length

by

the

tape

measure.

M

00

<I

CO

DO

O

t»|M

niei

10

|co

iWh

tOlM

cuIff

No.

|D

1

l£.

o

o en

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128

LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

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LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

129

7%

«

26/8

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130

STOUT

LADIES'

COSTUME.

Use

scale corresponding with the bust

measure

to

draft the

polonaise,

which

consists

of seven

pieces:

Front, Back,

Side-

Back, Collar,

Pocket

Lap and two Sleeve

portions.

This is

drafted

the

same as

all

others,

but

should not be

used

for

a

form smaller

than

a

36

bust. Lay

the

pleats

in

the

back

according

to

the notches. The under-arm

seams

may

remain

open

from

the

first

line

below the

waist

line down to

the bottom.

Make

the polonaise

as

long

as

the dress skirt.

Any

style

of

trimming

may be used to

relieve

the

plainness

in

front;

for

instance,

do

not

button

it all the

way up to the neck,

but

turn

it

back

at

the neck

and

face

with velvet

to

form lapels;

fit

the lining

to the neck,

however,

and

fill

in lace or soft silk.

The

diagrams

for the

skirt

are

given on page

132;

it consists

of three pieces:

Front, Side-Gore

and

one-half of

Back

breadth.

Use

the

scale corresponding

with

the waist

measure.

Any

style

of trimming

may

be

used.

Regulate the length

by

the

tape

Up.

AS

1—

4%

measure.

V/t

Front

<

H

K

M

o

o

p*

GO

<

©

•fc

17%

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STOUT

LADIES'

COSTUME—

Continued.

131

60

19

1*

COM

CS

K* HI

tt

ttOD>]

*t

eetsts

NJ

>*»

so

-S?

-5

-C

£->-

f

y

2

In.

Seam

No.

AS

Cut

Double

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132

STOUT LADIES'

COSTUME—

Continued.

00

Cut

Double

pi •

©.

 2

»

>

©

w

w

w

H

PS

©

©

lis

L

v.

a IncItSeam'

Join

Side

Gore

->

I* «J

SO

00

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GENTLEMEN'S

DOUBLE

BREASTED

SACK

COAT.

133

Draft by

the

scale

corresponding

with

the

Breast

measure,

taken

over

the

vest.

It

consists of

five

pieces,

Front,

Back,

Collar

and

two

Sleeve

portions.

Draft

the

same

as

all

other

garments.

Regulate

the

length

to

suit.

X0.10JR.

COLLAR

|

I

4^

or*

to

27

8

4

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134 STOUT

LADIES'

PRINCESS DRESS.

42%

43%

Use the scale

corresponding

with

the

Bust

measure to

draft the

entire

garment, which

consists

of

Front,

Back,

Side-back,

two

Under-arm-

gores,

Collar

and two

sleeve

portions.

Draft

the

same

as all

other

garments.

Lay the

pleats

in the

back,

join

the

under-arm

gores

according

to

the

stars.

The

ruffle

over

the shoulders

may

be

carried

to

a

sharp

point in

the

back

same

as

the

front,

or it

may

be straight

across the

back, or

may

be

sewed in

with

the

sleeve.

Close

in

front with

hooks

and eyes. Any

style

of

trimming

may

be

used.

Regulate

the

length by

the

tape

measure.

DO

(-

I-

CO

tf»J>-< It

1-

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STOUT

LADIES' PRINCESS—

Continued.

135

iT

if\

Join

Side-Muck

S|?

UNDER

ARM

•j£

GORE

..

OS

OS

00

os

o

os

tf

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136

CHILD'S

STREET

COSTUME.

Use

the scale corresponding

with

the

bust

measure

to

draft

the entire Waist

and Sleeves,

which

consists of

two

Fronts,

Back,

Side-Back, Ruffle for

the

neck,

Cuff

and

Sleeves.

Gather

the

upper

front

be-

tween

the

notches

and baste

to

the

under front; close in

the

back;

the

cape or

ruffle

may

remain

open

in

the

front

and

back also; line

with

thin

silk

or

simply

hem the

edges

and trim

with

braid.

The skirt

is

drafted

by

the

waist measure;

cut the

front

double to

avoid

a seam

down

the

center of

the front.

Trim with

braid or

velvet.

Regulate

the

length

by

the

tape

measure.

lt>|»

»|m

M

|w

05

en

co

to

m

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CHILD'S

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

137

7%

G

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138

LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME.

Use the

scale

corresponding

with the

bust measure

to

draft

the

entire waist,

which

consists of

two Fronts

and

Full

Front

piece, Back,

three

Cape

portions

and

three

Sleeve

portions.

The

upper

front

is

turned back

on the

dotted line for

a revere,

gather

the

full

front

portion and

fasten

to

the

under

front;

cut

the

capes

as represented,

allowing

u

them

to

come

to

the

dotted

line

on the

upper

front;

line

with

thin

silk

or

simply

hem, and

trim to

suit.

Do not use

any stiff

lining,

they

are

to

hang

in

graceful

waves.

Gather

the

puff

for the

sleeve and

sew to

the

sleeve.

Use

any skirt

given.

Trim

to

suit.

FULL

FRONT

No.

10FX5

17*

17|

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LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

139.

2i

8|

ONE-HALF

OF

7

5

<8

CAPE

No.

1 P

af

Bi

7i

8*

9i

9|

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140

LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME.

Use

the

scale

corresponding with

the

Bust measure

to

draft the entire

garment, which consists

of

two

Fronts

and

Back, for the

waist;

Front,

Back,

Collar and

two

Ruffles,

for

the

Jacket;

and

two pieces for the

Skirt.

The Waist

is given

on page

140.

The

one

with

a

hem

marked

down

the

front

is

the under,

or

lining

portion.

The one that

is

marked

 

cut

double

 

is the

upper

portion.

Close

on the

shoulder

and

under

the arm,

gather

the extra fullness

at

the

bottom

of

the

waist.

The

Jacket

is

given

on

page

141.

Make it as

long

as

the

waist.

Trim

to

suit.

The

Skirt

portions

are

given

on

page

142.

Draft

by

Bust

measure.

Take

up

the

darts.

The

corsage may

be

shaped to

suit the

wearer.

Use

any

full sleeve

given,

and

shirr

in the mid-

dle.

Regulate

the

length

to suit.

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LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME—Continued.

141

UNDER

hi

RUFFLE

No.

7 P

2

4

6

7k

9i

12|

15^

18

24

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142

LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

OS

CO

M

O

-1

#>

t»ii-

.&|m

~|w

*i^

to

tow

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LADIES' RIDING

HABIT.

143

Use the

scale

corresponding with the

bust measure

to

draft

the

Waist and

Sleeves,

which

consist of

Front,

Back,

Side-Back,

Under-arm-gore,

and two

Sleeve portions.

This

is

made

the

same

as

all

other

garments.

Finish with

ma-

chine stitching.

Close in front with

buttons

and

buttonholes.

The

Skirt

is

given

on pages

144

and

145.

Draft

by the

waist

measure. Take

up the

darts

as

represented, join

the

seams

according

to

stars

and

notches.

Regulate

the

length

by

the tape

measure.

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144

LADIES'

KIDING

HABIT—

Continued.

C3

05

Ol CJ>

05

*>

*>

If-

03

CD

<3l

M

-q

O

&

if-

to

CO

oo

*

-J

Ol cow

to

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LADIES'

RIDING

HABIT—

Continued.

145

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146

YOUNG

MISSES' DRESS.

CO

kQ

to

Use

the

scale

corre-

sponding with the bust

measure

to

draft the en-

tire

waist and

sleeves,

which

consists

of

two

fronts,

back,

trimming

for the

bottom

of

the

waist,

two

sleeve por-

tions

and puff

for the

sleeve.

Lay the

pleats

on

the upper

front

ac-

cording to

the

notches,

and

sew

to

the

under

front.

The skirt

simply a straight piece

of goods

laid

in

double

box pleats.

Regulate

the length

by

the tape

measure.

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YOUNG

MISSES'

DRESS—

Continued.

147

•nto

INFANTS'

DRESS.

10

Va

8JJ7JZ,

1

1

I

I  

FRONT

«

/

/

Xo.E3

/ >a

1

1

« 5

/

S

O

/

/

Q

/

'a

•p

1

/H

3

Use scale

corresponding

with

bust

measure

to

draft

the

entire garment,

which

consists

of Shirring

for Front

and

Yoke,

pleated Back

and

Sleeve.

Lay

six

pleats in

the

back, turning

toward

center of

back,

three

on

each side. Press

and

stitch

once or

twice

at

waist.

Gather the

front

and

sew

to

the

yoke;

gather the

Sleeve at the

top and bottom.

Regulate

the length

by the

tape

measure.

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LADIES'

COSTUME—

Continued.

149

22|A

COIoi

o

31

o

*?

CO

B9]H

o

K>|M

*|H

*

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150

LADIES'

COSTUME—

Continued.

OS

00

<|

en

|_1

»|u

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LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME. 151

Draft

the

Waist,

Jacket

and

Sleeves

by the scale corresponding

with

the

Bust

measure. The waist is

in

two

pieces,

Front and Back.

Gather

at the

neck

and

waist. Any other

waist

may

be used.

If

the

Jacket

is

made

of heavy cloth,

take

loose

measure.

It

consists

of

Front,

Back, Side-back,

Under-arm-

gore,

two Sleeve

portions and

Collar.

This

gives

the new

flaring

effect in

the

skirt.

This

may

be

made

of

any suit-

able

material.

The

Skirt

is

given

on

page

153.

Draft

by Waist measure; if

pleats are

desired, make allowance

in the

center

of

back. Trim

to

suit.

Regulate

the

length

by

the tape

measure.

05

W

rf>|»COlM

.--

 '.;

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152

LADIES'

STREET

COSTUME—

Continued.

25f

Bi

J

ARiyi

afc\

r

8

9i

19

sif^je.

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LADIES' STKEET

COSTUME—Continued

153

CO

to

l^

to

© 5

GO

Cn

^

CO

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154

LADIES'

KITCHEN

APRON.

Use scale

corresponding

with

bust

measure.

Is

in six

pieces:

Front,

Back,

Shoulder

Strap,

Belt,

Pocket

and

Strap.

The

binding

should

be

held

tight,

to

prevent

enlarging

the

neck.

^

in.

seams

allowed.

Regulate

the

length

by the

tape

line.

50^e

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LADIES'

COSTUME.

155

24|

Draft

the

Waist

and

by

the scale

corre-

with the Bust

This

is

a Russian Blouse.

the

neck

to fit

the

The

waist

is

also

Close

the front

the

left

side.

Hem

the

Use

any

skirt.

Regulate

length to

suit.

Any

yle of

trimming

may

be

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156

LADIES'

COSTUME—

Continued.

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LADIES'

MOURNING

COSTUME.

157

LADIES'

MOUMNING

COSTUME.

Use the scale

corresponding with

bust measure

to

draft

the entire

which

consists

of

two

Fronts,

Side-back,

Under-arm-gore,

Col-

and

four

Sleeve portions.

This

drafted the

same

as

all

other gar-

Face the

rolling

collar

with

Use any

skirt

given.

Face

the bottom

with

crape. These

are

always

made

very long,

and

back,

touching

the

floor all

Regulate the

length

with.

the

measure.

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158

LADIES'

MOURNING DRESS—

Continued.

_

1/2

In. Seam

1

Collarj

No.

N

llj

a

'flo

CO

05

<2

^'| l/2lnol

1

|Beam.

i

i

^*

X

»3

^* '''''

|

'

X

^

0)

\\

V

•' 1

r

1 L

 

\

m

 

n

n

,

1

1

j

\ ;

00

 

<

t

J

n

1

[*/

;

\

~-~~~S.

Im

1

*^~~-k

 

j/

110

y

.fe-

J-S2.

1

ic£-

|

>.

I

OS

to

09

CD

01 (^

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LADIES'

HOUSE DRESS.

159

Draft

the waist

and

sleeves by

the

scale corresponding

with

the

bust

measure. It consists of

yoke

and

shirring

for

front and

back,

collar

and two

sleeve portions.

15

^

13%

//

 ^-—

A

\W

,7,

-\

_r*

l/

n

\

SHERING

FOR

BACK

\ \

NO.

3

G

\|\

XV

\4

\\S\

<

\

\

\ \

*—

Sew

to belt

8/

3

Wy*

10

l'

/4

9

10%

10

•v-

SHERING

FOR

FRONT

N0.3G

13

T

/

4

-

B

o

«

H

Jb-

Sew to

belt

l/«

9*/

4

12%

9'/

2

Gather the

shirring portions

at

the top

and

sew to the yoke. Gather the

bottom

between the notches

and sew to the

belt.

This

may

be

made

to open

in

the back for

a

miss,

or

in

front

for a lady. If it

is

made

to open

in

front take

the

hem off

the

back and cut the goods

double,

and allow

the

hem in front

ij£

space

hem.

Gather the sleeves

at

the top between

the notches.

Draft the Bell skirt

with the waist

measure;

lay the

pleats

according

to the

notches;

trim the

bottom to

suit. Regulate

the length

by

the tape measure.

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160

LADIES' HOUSE

DRESS—

Continued.

*

ri^

'

$>

 

03

  '

09

f

'

05

CO

w

.

J

H SO

05

o

-<

_w ^M

i^

to

»~

W

51/2

4

iQyezi—

J^

^___-A

//

\

\j)/4

61/4+-. -

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BOYS'

COSTUME.

161

10374

-iev*

Use the scale

corresponding

the chest

measure to

draft

Waist

and

Sleeves,

which

nsists of

Front,

Back,

Collar,

Belt

and

Sleeve. Lay

the

on the

waist according

the

notches;

stitch them

on

machine.

Draft

the

skirt

the waist

measure;

lay

the

according to

the notches;

but do

not

tack

down.

the

length to suit.

193/4;

f

19

3/

4

I

Center

Of Front

.

1

1/2

Box

Pleat.

<

r

KILT

SKIRT.

x

/*

1/4

Box

Pleat

 

V*

Fox

Pleat.

 

No.

E

12.

Box Pleat

Box'Pleat

Box

Pleat

2

63/i

lll/

2

161^

21

241/4

29

-3.4

37^4

42

4.68/4

 50'i/4

S5

593/4

631/4

68

73

76

1/4

8II/4

86

891/4

94

95iA.

971/4.

6Va

5

U

3

/i

101/2^%--

113/8

111/2

Li_*

6=/

8

S5443/4.

2^2

1/44

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162

GENTLEMEN'S

DRESSING

GOWN.

Use

scale

correspond-

ing

with

the

chest

meas-

ure.

Is

in eight

pieces:

Front, Back, Collar, two

Pocket Laps and two

Sleeve portions. Is draft-

ed

upon

the general

plan.

Regulate the length

by

the use

of

the tape

meas-

ure.

»\

M

^

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CHILD'S

COMBINATION UNDERGARMENT. 163

Use

scale corresponding

with

the

bust

measure.

Is in

three pieces: Front,

Back and

Sleeve.

Is

drafted out

upon

the

general plan

of work.

Follow the

arrows

closely.

No allowance is made for

the tucks.

Regulate the

length

by the

use

of

the

tape

measure.

8

1

/

<S?

^'11_

8\

yS

18

8

4

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164

CHILD'S

COMBINATION—

Continued.

uy

A

u~-

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GENTLEMEN'S

NIGHT

SHIRT.

165

Use the

scale

corresponding

with

the

chest

measure.

Is

in five

pieces

: Front, Back, Collar,

Pocket

and one-

half

of

Sleeve.

We

deem it

unnecessary

to give

a description

of

the

different

parts, as any

seamstress

will know how to put

them

together.

The

seams are all marked.

The

front is

cut open down

to

the

notch

at

15

on

base

line.

The

Sleeve and

Cuff

are

cut together.

Gather the

Sleeve

at

the

top.

Regulate

the length

with

the

tape

line.

2%

1*4

COLLAR

2

S

/Jr

l

8

/

8

7

8

8\

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166

GENTLEMEN'S

NIGHT

SHIRT—

Continued.

2%

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LADIES'

COMBINATION

UNDERGARMENT.

16T

Use

scale

corresponding

with

bust

measure.

Is

in

three

pieces:

Front,

Back

and

Sleeve.

Is

drafted

out upon

the

general

plan

of work.

Follow

the

arrows

closely.

No allowance is

made

for the

tucks.

Regulate

the

length

by the

use

of

the

tape

measure.

22^

28

x

/

a

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168 BOYS' SUIT.

Use

scale corresponding

with

the

chest

measure.

Is in

nine

pieces:

Front,

Back, Collar,

Belt and

two

Sleeve

portions,

and

the

two

portions

for

the

Knee Pants,

and

Waist

Band.

Is

drafted

on the

general plan

of

work.

Each

plait

is marked

on

the draft.

Follow

the arrows closely.

THE

PANTS

Are

drafted

by

the scale

corresponding

with the

hip

measure.

Regulate

the

length

by the

use

of the tape

measure.

ll

V

a 9

s

'

6

V

S^8

2/4

>v^--

6

-i

*st

ki

sfc

-

8/

g

1/3

iv

8

a

1

'.

»Vi8

7%

5^,4

 >

8

«

8

4

4

6

/

S%2V

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170

MEN'S

OVERALLS,

WITH

APRON.

2

S

4

A

*

5

 /}

2

8

i

29*/

4

Use

scale

corresponding

with

waist

measure.

Is in

two

pieces:

One-half

of

Overalls

and

Strap.

Regulate

the

length by

the

use

of

the

tape

line.

-

'47

V

4

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BOYS'

OVERCOAT.

171

Use scale corresponding with

bust

measure.

Is

in seven

pieces: Front, Back,

Collar, two

Pocket

Laps

and two Sleeve portions.

Is

drafted upon the general

plan

of

the work.

Regulate

the

length

by the

tape

measure.

32

%

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172

BOYS'

OVERCOAT—

Continued.

4%^

2*4 1V4

es

t->

M

©

i

1

*

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GENTLEMEN'S

OVERCOAT.

173

Use

scale

corresponding

with

the

chest

measure.

Take the

measure

over

the

coat

moderately

tight.

Take

sleeve

measure

from center

of

back

to

knuckle

joint. Deduct

the

seams.

This consists of five

pieces:

Front,

Back,

Collar and

two

Sleeve

portions.

The seams are all

^-inch seams.

Regulate

the

length

by the

tape

measure.

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174

GENTLEMEN'S

OVERCOAT—

Continued.

CO CO

»

«0<Z>00-<1

OS

*>

cb

«

18

s

CO

I* t«

NT

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GENTLEMEN'S

OVERALLS.

175

Take

the

measure directly

over

the

hip

to ascertain

the number

of

scale

to

use.

.It

consists of five pieces:

Front,

Back, Fly, Strap

and Band.

Regulate the

length

by the

tape

measure.

£

WAISTBAND

N0.9B

Tj

^

l'/4

'*\

Z.

L

H-

r-

'8

4%\

2

\

>H

\

1

*]

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m

1

s

\

i

CS

4k

\\|

©

to

2%V

\

6%

. i

<

*

r \

1

*^rN

8^4

8

5

/

R

*-*

9

rV

8

FRONT

e

-

12

»Mf

'

«

6

20

V

4

39^

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176

BOYS' SHIRT

WAIST

AND

KNEE

PANTS.

11%

3V4

8Vsi

^^ ::__X2 4

y

FEOKT

l

8

/4

3

3V4

6

vJ.

]____

5%

/

;

//

7

.

hi

hi

h

1

No.

C 11

/

/

/

/

1

l

'

J-

-

u%

'

«^£fUh

16

4V4

A

a

1=1

S5

H]

««

<

n

w

H

H

tf

No.C

11

4V4

6V2

5

BOYS'

SHIRT

WAIST.

Use the

scale corresponding

with

the chest

measure

to draft

the

entire

waist,

which consists

of

five pieces:

Front, Back,

Waist

Band,

Cuff

and

Sleeve.

Gather the

waist

at

the bottom

and

sew to

the

band;

gather

the

sleeves at

the

bottom

and

sew

to the

cuff; gather

at

the top

between

notches and sew

in arms

eye.

The

pants are

drafted

by the scale

corre-

sponding with

the hip

measure;

is

in three

pieces,

Front, Back and

Waistband.

Regulate

the

length to suit.

to

ts

h*

ce

te

a

^

X

-1

'i

Of

CO

a^

0^

^

£.

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-T

H

E

K-

Voick

of

Fashion

A

Magazine published

for

the

especial

benefit

of

those

who use

THE

DIAMOND

G

GARMENT GUTTER,

And others

interested

in keeping

well

up

in

the

latest

styles.

It

embraces

all

the

latest styles,

with

drafts

showing

how

to

cut

and

instructions

in making

up the

same.

SUBSCRIPTION

PRICE,

$1

.50

PER

YEAR. SINGLE

COPY,

40 CENTS.

PAID

IN

ADVANCE.

PUBLISHED

BY

GOLDSBERRY

Sc

DORAN,

385

ogden

avenue,

Chicago, III.

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-THE

Voicb

of

Fashion

A

Magazine

published

for

the especial

benefit

of those

who

use

THE DIAMOND

G

GARMENT

GUTTER,

And others

interested

in keeping well

up

in

the

latest

styles.

It

embraces all

the

latest styles,

with drafts

showing

how

to

cut

and

instructions in

making

up the same.

SUBSCRIPTION

PRICE,

$1.50

PER

YEAR.

SINGLE

COPY,

40 CENTS.

PAID

IN

ADVANCE.

PUBLISHED BY

GOLDSBERRY Sc

DORAN,

385

ogden

avenue,

Chicago,

III.

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-/

V

P

J

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