devon geology

Geologyin Devon

www.devon.gov.ukwww.discoverdevon.com

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Why does Devon lookthe way it does?Climate has played a role, with Devon’s wet andmild weather influencing how the land has beenfarmed and what plants grow here. People havechanged the landscape through farming and bybuilding houses, roads and industry.

But what is it that really governs what crops andwild plants will flourish, and why build homesand set up industry in one place and notanother?

As you may have guessed, the fundamentalanswer to these questions is usually ‘thegeology’. The rocks beneath our feet influencethe soils in which plants grow and havetraditionally provided local communities withbuilding materials. The locations of the hills,valleys and estuaries that we see today havestrongly shaped the pattern of humansettlement.

Whether we know it or not, we all have a closerelationship with geology! In Devon, thewonderful diversity of landscapes and wildhabitats that continually delight thousands oftourists and locals alike closely reflect theCounty’s varied geology.

You may know not know much about geology –few of us do. Don’t worry! This is not a booklet

for geologists. It is here to help anyone with aninterest in the natural world to discover Devon’sgeology and at the same time to experience thebeautiful landscapes and diverse wildlife that canbe found throughout the coast and countrysideof Devon.

Many of the sites also have a rich historicinterest, such as the Napoleonic fort at BerryHead, Torbay. What’s more, Devon has twoWorld Heritage Sites with geological interest,including the famous ‘Jurassic Coast’. With somuch to see, why not get out and enjoy Devon’snatural history for yourself?

Access to much of the County has never beenbetter. An integrated bus and train network,3500 miles of footpath, 734 miles of bridlewaysand 150 miles of the National Cycle Networkallow you to explore the countryside without theneed for a car. Make your visit even more specialand help to preserve Devon’s natural beauty forothers.

For further information on Devon’s geology,wildlife and other attractions, please visit theDiscover Devon web site:www.discoverdevon.com.For information on public transport please visitwww.traveline.org.uk or call the Travelinenumber 0871 200 22 33 (calls from landlines cost10p per minute).

Introduction

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Granite WayDawlish Warren

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Front cover photo: Sandstone outcrop near Dawlish

A flavour of Devon's geology

Devon has a varied and ancient geology and asyou travel around the County this variety isclearly reflected in the diverse landscape.

The uplands are dominated by the granite ofDartmoor and the sandstones, slates and othersedimentary rocks of Exmoor. The uplandcharacter of both of these National Parks wasstrongly influenced by a period of mountainbuilding caused by tectonic plate collision. Thenature of these rocks together with the climatehas created acidic soils that have helped to givethese areas their moorland nature.

In the central belt of the County betweenDartmoor and Exmoor the Culm Measures ofCarboniferous age, laid down between 354 to290 million years ago, give rise to a characteristicwet, acidic rushy and heathy grassland where therocks are rich in shale. However, whensandstones predominate over shale the soil isbetter drained and supports arable farming.

In contrast, limestone, the remains of countlessnumbers of marine organisms, can be found inareas along the south coast such as at Hope’sNose and Berry Head in Torbay. At the lastlocality towering limestone cliffs now support

species-rich grassland and provide a home for thelargest breeding colony of guillemots on thesouth coast of England. This limestone is one ofthe oldest rocks in the County, being laid downduring the Devonian Period (417 to 354 millionyears ago), a part of geological history named bythe Victorians after this very county.

Visitors to Devon are often struck by the redsoils, particularly visible in a broad area aroundand to the east of Exeter. The colour is caused byiron oxide present in sandstones laid down in thearid desert conditions of the Permian and Triassicperiods, 290 to 206 million years ago. And duringthe Cretaceous Period, which began about 144million years ago, the Greensand was depositedand this now remains on the high ridges of theBlackdowns in the east and the Haldon Hills nearExeter. Overlying Chalk occurs in the Beer area inEast Devon and once overlay the Greensand onthe Haldon Hills.

Devon’s geology has an influence well beyond itsborders. About 30 million years ago during theTertiary Period the huge Sticklepath Fault thatruns north-west to south-east across the Countycaused local subsidence creating basins such asthat found at Bovey Tracey, south-east of

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Dartmoor. Sand, clay and lignite accumulatedwithin these basins and this included ball clay,now used in a wide variety of productsexported far and wide.

These are just a few examples of the County’srich geological medley but it is more than justthe sheer variety of rocks that makes Devonspecial. The land was never covered by theglaciers of the Ice Age, the southernmost ofwhich only reached the north coast of Devon.As a result, the Ice Age has a smaller effect onthe landscape of Devon than most parts ofBritain, and the relationship between thebedrocks and the resulting landform can beclearly seen. That said, the proximity of thesegreat masses of ice did not pass unnoticed, ascan be seen on Dartmoor where the effects offreezing and thawing can be witnessed in thetors that are so characteristic of the area today.

Geology gives an unrivalled insight into thehistory of the Earth but it is worthremembering that the processes that havehelped to shape the planet are still at work ascan be seen in such dynamic landscapes as thesand dunes of Dawlish Warren in the ExeEstuary.

Further informationon Devon's geologyIf you want to dig deeper into the geology ofDevon there are many sources of informationyou can explore. Here are just a few:

• The Educational Register of GeologicalSites in Devon:www.devon.gov.uk/geology

• The Devon Biodiversity Action Plan has auseful summary of Devon’s geology:www.devon.gov.uk/biodiversity

• Devon Regionally Important GeologicalSites group: www.devonrigs.org.uk

• Devon’s Geology – an introduction, writtenby Robert Hesketh and published byBossiney Books.

• In February 2007 Torbay submitted a bidfor European GeoPark Status in recognitionof the area’s international importance forgeology. There are 32 geosites covering astory of 3 geological time periods, allfound within a compact area. A great dealof interesting information on Torbay’sdramatic geological story can be found atthe associated website:www.englishrivierageopark.org.uk.

• In 2007 the Jurassic Coast Trust is due topublish The Red Coast Revealed, the first ina series of geological guides to the JurassicCoast World Heritage Site which extendsalong the East Devon and Dorset Coast.

The following books are out of print but canbe easily obtained through Devon libraries orsecond hand:

The Geology of Devonedited by Durrance & Laming and published bythe University of Exeter Press.

Geology Explained in Southand East Devonwritten by John Perkins and published by Davidand Charles.

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Geological Timeline

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The CoastDevon is unique in the UK in havingtwo separate coastlines, with a totallength of over 400 km. They offer amarvellous opportunity to viewDevon’s geology whilst at the sametime experiencing some of theEngland’s most beautiful andatmospheric landscapes.

Along the north coast are impressive toweringcliffs of sandstones and mudstones, oftenshowing dramatic folds in the rocks caused bythe huge forces that have been at work here inthe ancient past. Many beaches can also befound, as well as the famous, massive sanddune system of Braunton Burrows.

The gentler south coast is perhaps even morevaried. Frequent estuaries punctuate thecoastline, many being deep river valleys thathave been drowned by rising sea levels in thepast. To the east lies the ‘Jurassic Coast’ WorldHeritage Site, offering a unique ‘walk throughtime’ and the chance to admire impressive seastacks and land slips. The limestone cliffs ofBerry Head, visually stunning, clearlydemonstrate the links between geology andwildlife, and the coastline of Start and PrawlePoints, to the far south, has a beautyunequalled.

These are just a few highlights to provide aflavour of Devon’s coastal resource. The SouthWest Coast Path runs along both coasts,offering great access and spectacular views atany time of year:www.southwestcoastpath.com

The Coast and Moors

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The MoorsThe upland National Parks of Dartmoorand Exmoor present a wild and strikingcontrast to the more rolling, fertilelowlands that cover much of Devon.However, each National Park has its ownunique personality, the differencesbetween them reflecting theirunderlying geology.

Exmoor is underlain by sedimentary rocks such assandstones and slates. Originally, these weremostly laid down in the shallow waters of seas,lakes and river deltas during the Devonian (417 –354 million years ago) and Carboniferous (354 –290 m.y.a.) periods. So why is Exmoor now such adramatic upland landscape? The explanation canbe found in the ancient movement of the Earth’scrust. A period of tectonic plate collision causedintense pressure resulting in the rocks beingcompressed, folded like a concertina and faulted.Exmoor is an upfaulted block of harder Devonianrocks which contrasts with the softer rocks of theCarboniferous age to the south. During thesubsequent eons there has been a considerabledegree of erosion which has sliced through layersof rocks of different ages, meaning that thegeology of a variety of times is now exposed inthe cliffs and steep valley sides.

Dartmoor’s story is different. Here, theunderlying rock is mostly granite. Indeed,Dartmoor represents the largest area of exposedgranite in southern Britain. During the period ofearth movement described above, the pressuresresulted in the rocks melting at depth. Theresulting magma pushed up – or intruded – intothe Devonian and Carboniferous sedimentaryrocks above before cooling to become granite.

The forces of erosion then exposed the granite.Interestingly, the circulation of fluids during thecooling of the solidified granite led to theconcentration of many minerals, such as tin andcopper, and signs of past mining activity can beseen throughout the moor.

Perhaps the most obvious geological features ofDartmoor are its tors. These are the result oferosion caused by both chemical weathering andthe severe climatic conditions of the Ice Age.Initially, water ran through the natural crackswithin the granite and ate away at the rocks.Later, after the granite was exposed, the freeze-thaw conditions of the Ice Age worked away atthe rocks, creating the structures we see today.Whilst glaciers did not reach Dartmoor, there aremany other landforms resulting from the effectsof extreme cold during the last Ice Age that canbe seen on Dartmoor.

For further information onDartmoor and Exmoor

Dartmoor National Parkcall 01822 890414 or visitwww.dartmoor-npa.gov.uk

Exmoor National Parkcall 01398 323665 or visitwww.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.ukor www.visit-exmoor.info

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Sheeps Tor & Burrator Reservoir

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What do the Great Wall of China, India’sTaj Mahal or the historic centre of Romehave in common? They are all WorldHeritage Sites, recognised by the UnitedNations Educational, Scientific andCultural Organisation (UNESCO) for theiroutstanding international importance.Devon is blessed with two of these worldclass sites.

The Dorset and East Devon CoastWHS (inscribed in 2001)

Commonly known as the‘Jurassic Coast’, this siteruns the 95 miles fromExmouth in Devon to Studland Bay in Dorset.Packed into this short stretch of coast are 187million years of geological time, spanning theTriassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous Periods. Thismeans that, the rocks here date from between252 and 65 million years ago.

Usually you would expect to find younger rocksat the top of cliffs and older rocks below.However, along this coast past earth movementhas caused a tilt in the rocks. Combined with theeffects of erosion this means that today you cantake a unique ‘walk through time’, passing overthe older rocks in the west to encounter youngerrocks as you head east.

As you go you will experience stunning coastallandscapes of steep cliffs, isolated sea stacks andmassive landslips. Many of the rocks were laiddown in marine conditions and are often rich infossils. Indeed, this coast has long been animportant location for the study of ancient life.

The area is easily accessed by land and sea. TheSouth West Coast Path National Trail runs alongits entire length, boat trips are available and it iswell served by the Jurassic Coast bus (X53).

Much of Devon’s Jurassic Coast is featured in theindividual site descriptions in this booklet butthese can only hint at the fascinating story to beread from the rocks. For more information onthis site, places to visit and how to get thereplease visit www.jurassiccoast.com

Cornwall and WestDevon MiningLandscape WHS(inscribed in 2006)

Geology can strongly influence cultural heritageand this can be clearly seen in the Cornwall andWest Devon Mining Landscape (‘Cornish Mining’).

This World Heritage Site covers select mininglandscapes dating from 1700 to 1914. During thistime the mining and processing of copper, tin,arsenic and other industrial metals led to majortechnological developments, particularly in steamengineering, which helped to transform miningboth locally and worldwide and significantlycontributed to the Industrial Revolution. Thisexplosive period of activity has left a fascinatinglegacy of mines, associated infrastructure and aunique and wider cultural landscape, and had asignificant economic and cultural impact not onlyin Cornwall and Devon but around the world.

Within Devon, considerable mining activity tookplace in the Tamar Valley and Tavistock. Thisincluded the famous Devon Great Consols, oncethe richest copper mine in Europe and for aperiod the largest producer of arsenic in theworld. Copper ore and arsenic were exportedfrom the various mines by ship and a number ofsmall quays were established along the Tamar.One such example, Morwellham Quay, is now amuseum and visitor centre that includes Georgeand Charlotte, a former copper mine. The townof Tavistock is a testament to the wealth that themining generated in the locality. Of medievalorigin, it was dramatically remodelled by theDuke of Bedford in the mid-19th century usingthe considerable profits from his mininginvestments.

There is a great deal of mining heritage toexplore in this part of Devon and much of it isalso an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Formore information please visitwww.cornishmining.org.uk

World Heritage Sites

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Abbreviations usedin this booklet

AONB Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty

LNR Local Nature Reserve

MNR Marine Nature Reserve

NNR National Nature Reserve

SAC Special Area of Conservation

SPA Special Protection Area

SSSI Site of Special Scientific Interest

VMCA Voluntary Marine Conservation Area

WHS World Heritage Site

Easy Access routes available

Admission charge applies

Your safety and theconservation ofgeological specimensA little care and consideration for your safetyand surroundings can help us all to continueto enjoy Devon’s wonderful environment andits unique geological heritage.

Use your common sense and please:

• Follow the Country Code:www.countrysideaccess.gov.uk

• Keep to established public footpathsalong the coast. Wear appropriatefootwear – paths can be uneven andslippery when wet.

• Stay away from cliff edges and quarryfaces and do not stand beneath them –beware falling rocks.

• When planning your trip please check theweather conditions and do not explorethe coast alone. Always let someoneknow where you are going.

• Check tide times and aim to be on thebeaches during a falling tide. Be aware ofincoming tides and large waves.

• Do not attempt to climb cliffs or quarryfaces.

• The best place to look for fossils is wherethey are loose on the beach.

• Do not remove fossils or other geologicalspecimens from cliffs or other featureswhere they are embedded in the rock.These are important for scientific studyand education.

• Keep all collecting to a minimum andreport interesting finds.

• Many sites are privately owned and manyare also Sites of Special Scientific Interest– collecting specimens will requirepermission.

• Observe local notices.

The maps in this booklet are for guidanceonly, used to generally indicate the areasdescribed in the text. They do not implyfree and easy access throughout theseareas. Please respect private property and ifsomewhere looks difficult or dangerous toaccess, do not attempt to go there.

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Devon Great Consols

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Geology in Devon

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Maps reproduced from Ordnance Survey material with the permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the Controller of HerMajesty's Stationery Office © Crown copyright. Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown copyright and may lead toprosecution or civil proceedings. 100019783. 2008

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Western Devonand Dartmoor1. Blackingstone Rock2. The Granite Way3. Lydford Gorge4. Brent Tor5. Merrivale6. Bellever Tor & Higher Cherrybrook

Bridge Quarry7. Burrator Quarries8. Tavistock & Tavistock Railway Cutting9. Morwellham Quay

Southern Devon10. Plym Valley Trail11. Plymouth Sound, Shores & Cliffs12. Wembury13. Ivybridge & the Erme Valley14. Blackdown Rings15. Start Point to Prawle Point16. Slapton Ley & Slapton Sands17. Berry Head to Sharkham Point18. Daddyhole19. Kents Cavern20. Hope’s Nose to Walls Hill21. Dawlish Warren & Cliffs

Eastern Devon22. Orcombe Point to Lympstone23. Budleigh Salterton Cliffs & the Otter Estuary24. Ladram Bay to Sidmouth25. Sidmouth to Beer Coast26. Beer Quarry Caves27. Axmouth to Lyme Regis Undercliffs28. Exeter City Walls & Cathedral29. Brampford Speke30. Killerton Park

Northern Devonand Exmoor31. Lynmouth area32. Combe Martin Bay to Hele Bay33. Woolacombe to Ilfracombe34. Lundy35. Baggy Point to Saunton36. Braunton Burrows37. Westward Ho! Cliffs & Northam Burrows38. Codden Hill Viewpoint39. Hartland Point to Hartland Quay40. Barley Grove & Torrington Common

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1. Blackingstone RockNearest town: Moretonhampstead

OS grid reference: SX 786 856

Status: National Park

Management: Dartmoor NationalPark Authority

Blackingstone Rock is a large tor situated in theeastern part of Dartmoor National Park. Itexhibits many of the typical features of theDartmoor Granite. Of particular note is that thecoarse grained granite contains very large crystalsof feldspar. The term ‘feldspar’ encompasses agroup of pale coloured rock-forming minerals;Blackingstone Rock has examples up to severalcentimetres long. The tor also displayscharacteristic jointing.

FacilitiesThere is a display board describing the tor,including an outline of the geology, in the carpark.

AccessFoot: There is access on foot to the open areaaround the rock, this is best accessed using thepath which runs northwest around the tor andascends gently. Please do not climb straight up tothe top of the rock from the car park as thiscauses erosion and may damage rare lichens.There is a flat route to the base of the rock usinga footpath from the layby at SX 785 856. Bus:There are regular bus services to nearbyMoretonhampstead from Exeter and Newton

Abbot. Road: From Exeter take the B3212towards Moretonhampstead, after passingthrough Doccombe turn left towardsBlackingstone and Blackingstone Rock at CossickCross junction.

For further information on the geology of thissite please viewwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-BKR.pdf.

2. The Granite WayNearest towns: Okehampton & Lydford

OS grid reference: SX 517 852 - SX 589 944

Management:Devon County Council

The Granite Way is an 11 mile cycle and walkwayrunning between Okehampton and Lydfordalong the north western edge of Dartmoor. It ismostly traffic free, largely following the courseof the former Southern Region railway line. Ajourney along the Granite Way offers good viewsof the granite landscape of Dartmoor, as well asa number of specific sites of geological interest.

Western Devon and Dartmoor

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© Dartmoor National Park Authority

© Robin Bevis DCC

For example, close to the Okehampton end ofthe route is Meldon Quarry. This large workingsite, largely hidden in the landscape, produceshard rock such as hornfels. This is used in avariety of ways but in particular it has providedthe aggregates for road building and rail ballastsince 1895.

Further south can be seen the impressivesilhouette of Sourton Tors (they can be reachedby a footpath north of Sourton). Unlike most ofDartmoor’s tors they are not made of granite.Instead they also consist of hornfels that, as atMeldon, were created by heating when hotgranite intruded into the original rocks of thisarea. The actual point of contact between theserocks with the granite is a kilometre or so farthersouth-east. As you look out onto Dartmoor yousee an area which was once a plateau and canobserve how over millions of years rivers have cutthrough the rock creating distinctive valleys.

At the southern end of the trail is the famousLydford Gorge, which is covered by a separateentry in this booklet.

FacilitiesOkehampton and Lydford contain a good rangeof facilities, and there is a visitor centre and caféat Meldon Viaduct, near the Quarry.

AccessOkehampton: Bus: There are regular servicesfrom Exeter, Bude, Plymouth and Barnstaple.Train: Limited service from Exeter on summerSundays. Road: From the A30 follow signs toOkehampton station along the B3260. Bicycle:The site is part of the National Cycle Route 27“Devon Coast to Coast”. For more information,view www.sustrans.co.uk for other routes thatconnect to Route 27.

Lydford: Bus: There is a regular service operatedbetween Plymouth and Barnstaple. Road: via theA386 at Dartmoor Inn, follow signs for Lydford/Lydford Gorge.

For more information on the Granite Way pleaseview the leaflet atwww.devon.gov.uk/the_granite_way.pdf, alsoavailable at Tourist Information Centres. Acomprehensive booklet on the geology of theMeldon area has been produced and can bedownloaded from the website of the DartmoorNational Park Authority.

3. Lydford GorgeNearest Town: Tavistock

OS grid reference: SX 503839

Status: SSSI, National Park

Management: National Trust

The impressive Lydford Gorge has a depth of 35metres, is almost 2 km long and is ofconsiderable importance for interpreting thegeology of the local area. Within the gorge it ispossible to see extensive exposures of mudstones,sandstones, limestones and cherts ranging in agefrom Upper Devonian (c370 million years) toLower Carboniferous age (350 million years).Some of these rocks contain important fossilremains that have proved crucial in dating thegeology.

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However, perhaps the most impressive aspect ofthe site is the structure of the gorge itself. Thisprovides a classic example of river gorgeformation followed by ‘river capture’ and hasmany features associated with this process. Theseinclude the spectacular 27 metre high Whiteladywaterfall and the exciting Devil’s Cauldronwhirlpool, along with the imprints of potholesnow many metres above the present river level.

FacilitiesAdmission charges apply. There is a tea-room,shop and during the winter access is to thewaterfall only. Walking in the gorge is strenuous.It is extremely rugged, with uneven surfaces,

slippery paths and vertical drops. Walking bootsare essential. Please also refer to the safetyguidance at the start of this booklet.

AccessFoot: Circular walk of 3 miles or short walks toDevil’s Cauldron and Whitelady Waterfall.Bicycle: Lydford Gorge is close to two cycleroutes: Devon Coast to Coast and the Plym Valley.Bus: A number of buses stop at Lydford Gorge,including ones from Plymouth. Road: LydfordGorge is halfway between Okehampton andTavistock, 1 mile west of the A386 opposite theDartmoor Inn. The main entrance is at the westend of Lydford village and the waterfall entranceis 1 mile along the road from the main entrance.

For details on opening dates and times andadmission charges visit www.nationaltrust.org.ukor email [email protected] orcall the National Trust on 01822 820320 or820441.Further geological details are available atwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-LYG.pdf

4. Brent TorNearest Town: Tavistock



Management: Private landowner

Brent Tor is one of the most impressive rockoutcrops in Dartmoor. With St Michael’s Churchat its top, it makes a distinctive and famoussilhouette on the Dartmoor skyline.

The Tor is unusual as it is one of the few onDartmoor not to be made of granite. In fact, it isformed from basaltic lava which flowed some350 million years ago into a shallow sea thatcovered the area during the Lower Carboniferousand Devonian periods. As the lavas flowed outinto the sea some solidified into globular massesknown as pillow lavas. Others were broken up byexplosive contact with the sea water.

This lava formed a mound on the sea floor whichwas then eroded by sea currents with the


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resulting debris being washed down the slopesof the mound. Debris of this nature can still beseen loose on the southern slopes of the Tor.

FacilitiesCar parking and toilets are available directly westof the site, north west of Heathfield Plantation.Access to the site entrance is at the northern endnear the Stag’s Head House, gained via roadsidepavement.

AccessRoad: If accessed from Exeter the route is roundthe north side of Dartmoor on the A30 leaving itat Sourton and proceeding towards Tavistock. Alocal road south-west from Lydford reachesNorth Brentor village. The car park is just belowBrent Tor itself. Bus: Services run betweenOkehampton and Tavistock, stopping at nearbyNorth Brentor. Bicycle: The National CycleNetwork Route 27 (Plymouth to Ilfracombe) isnear to the site (see www.sustrans.co.uk).

For further information on this site please viewwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-BRT.pdf

5. MerrivaleNearest Town: Tavistock



Management: Various(owned by Duchy of Cornwall)

Located on the west side of Dartmoor, this site ishome to a number of impressive landforms thatare defined by the underlying geology anddemonstrate the effects of weathering duringthe Ice Age. Dartmoor was never glaciated butstill suffered the effects of the cold conditions,known as periglacial activity. Solid ice sheetscame as far south as the coast of North Devon.

The area has a number of tors, including RoosTor, Cox Tor and the Staple Tors. These Tors wereexposed when the overlying material was erodedby periglacial activity. They are surrounded byareas of clitter (rock debris) and blockfields (flator only gently sloping areas of frost-shatteredrock), and boulder runs are also present.

The slopes around Cox Tor display a number ofunusual earth hummocks. These varyconsiderably in size and shape but can be up totwo metres in diameter and about 0.5 metreshigh. They are generally composed of a fine siltyloam that again resulted from weathering duringthe Ice Age.

FacilitiesThere is car parking on the B3357 Tavistock toPrincetown road.

AccessThis area of Dartmoor is common land to whichthere is free access on foot. Merrivale Granitequarry is private.

Foot: One public footpath runs through the site.(N.B Visitors should avoid walking on the delicateearth hummock features and use existing pathswherever possible).

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Road: The site can be approached from car parkson the B3357 Tavistock to Princetown road. Theland immediately to the north of the site is usedby the Ministry of Defence as a firing range andis therefore classed as a ’Danger Area’; access issubject to a range of restrictions (seewww.dartmoor-ranges.co.uk).Bus: There is a regular service between Tavistockand Merrivale and Princetown.

For more information on the geology ofDartmoor and this site please viewwww.dartmoor-npa.gov.uk orwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-MVL.pdf

6. Bellever Tor & HigherCherrybrook BridgeQuarryNearest Town: Princetown

OS grid reference: SX 645764 &SX 635771

Status: National Park

Management: Forestry Commission

Situated in the centre of Dartmoor National Park,the area around Bellever Tor is easily accessibleand is a popular site for walkers. It provides agood example of a hill-crest granite tor. Featuresseen here and at the nearby Cherrybrook BridgeQuarry illustrate the effects of weathering ongranite and give a good indication of how theDartmoor tors were formed.

From the adjoining Forestry Commissionplantation, there is a pleasant and relativelygentle walk up the moorland slopes towards thesummit of Bellever Tor. The tor shows welldeveloped and flat-lying tabular jointing.Weathering has penetrated these joints causingthe disintegration of the granite into large slabswhich now form the debris, known as clitter thatsurrounds the tor. The tor is also cut by widely-spaced vertical joints which have weathered intobroad gullies.

The effects of weathering on granite are alsowell demonstrated at the nearby HigherCherrybrook Quarry, located by the roadsidesome 2km to the northwest of Bellever Tor. Here,the degree of loosening and weakening of thegranite can be related to the proximity to thejoints which, over millions of years, have allowedthe rock to be attacked through the chemicaland physical forces of water.

In addition to its geological significance, the siteoffers excellent views over South Dartmoor. Thearea also exhibits many remains of prehistoricsettlement, including tombs and stone rows andcircles.


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FacilitiesThere are a number of car parks near the site.

AccessFoot: The site is best accessed on foot via theforestry tracks leading from the ForestryCommission car parks at Bellever Forest. Road:From the B3212 between Postbridge and TwoBridges there is direct access to the quarry / carpark site at Higher Cherrybrook Quarry. Bus:There are a few daily services from Princetown toBellever.

See the factsheet on tor formation (including acase study at Higher Cherrybrook Quarry) atwww.dartmoor-npa.gov.uk/lab-tors.pdf.Additional information is available atwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-BET.pdf (&geo-HCB.pdf).

7. Burrator QuarriesNearest Town: Yelverton



Management:South West Lakes Trust

Located on the south-western edge of Dartmoorclose to the impressive Burrator Reservoir are thedisused Upper and Lower Burrator Quarries.

The Upper Burrator Quarry offers an opportunityto view a rare exposure of the contact betweenthe Dartmoor granite and Devonian rocks.Indeed, veins of pink granite can be seenpenetrating these rocks which were once slatesresulting from the deep burial and intensedeformation of mudstone originally laid down inmarine conditions. However, the hightemperatures that resulted from the intrusion ofthe hot granite transformed them into re-crystallised rocks known as hornfels. Mineralssuch as black tourmaline have been formed inthe original slate.

The Lower Burrator Quarry exposes graniteintersected by a series of joints. Joints arefractures in the granite resulting from stressescaused by cooling, by pressures from earthmovements or by the removal of a load whenthe rocks once above the granite are erodedaway.

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A booklet entitled ‘The evolution of a DartmoorLandscape - exploring Burrator’ by Peter Keenegives more detail on the geology of the quarriesand the Burrator area in general. It is available todownload or purchase at the Dartmoor NationalPark Authority web site.

AccessFoot: Both of the quarries are situated onYennadon Down which is common land. You canroam freely on foot and on horseback.Bus: There is a regular bus service from Yelvertonto the nearby village of Dousland. There is also aregular service to Yelverton from Tavistock andPlymouth. Road: The site is accessed from theminor road heading east from Yelverton towardsBurrator Reservoir. The site lies west of the roadapproximately 300 metres south of the reservoir’sdam. Car parking is available in the southernquarry. Bicycle: National Cycle Network Route 27‘Devon Coast to Coast’ from Plymouth toIlfracombe runs near to Yelverton and the site.

For further information on this site, please viewwww. devon.gov.uk/geo-BUQ.pdf, orwww.swlakestrust.org.uk.

8. Tavistock & TavistockRailway CuttingNearest City: Plymouth


Status: LNR, WHS

Management: Tavistock Town Council, WestDevon Borough Council & private landowners

Tavistock, originally founded in 974 AD with thebuilding of the Benedictine Abbey, has beengreatly influenced by the local geology. Thesurrounding area once supported a thrivingmining industry. Indeed, the extraction ofminerals such as tin, copper and arsenic isdocumented as early as 1305.

Tavistock is now a part of the Cornwall and WestDevon Mining Landscape World Heritage Site inrecognition of the considerable legacy of thismining activity. During the nineteenth centurythe town was completely remodelled by the 7thDuke of Bedford, Francis Russell, and his stewardJohn Benson using the profits gained frommining. In the process a number of impressivepublic buildings were built, as was modelhousing for workers - virtually unheard of at thetime.


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© K N Page

The buildings include the Cornmarket (1835) andthe Guildhall (1863). Many were created using avariety of local materials including the greenvolcanic Hurdwick Stone, quarried just a fewmiles away, and granite from Pew Tor onDartmoor. The workers cottages were madefrom brick and local rubble stone.

The rocks underlying Tavistock can be seen inseveral places in the town, such as TavistockRailway Cutting (SX 4722 7413 – SX 4788 7448).Greenish grey Devonian slates occur in the south-western part of the cutting (SX 4722 7413) andtowards the road bridge. Beyond this bridgeblack slates, also Devonian, can be observed. Atthe north eastern end of the section is evidenceof volcanic activity with lavas containing cavitiescaused by the expansion of trapped gasses andfinely grained deposits of volcanic ash.

FacilitiesThere are shops, cafes and restaurants inTavistock. Cycle hire is also available.

AccessRoad: The A386 connects Tavistock to Plymouthand Okehampton. Bicycle: The National CycleNetwork Route 27 “Coast to Coast” fromIlfracombe to Plymouth goes through Tavistock.Bus: There are regular services from Plymouthand Okehampton.

For further information on this site, please viewwww.cornishmining.org.uk orwww.tavistock.gov.uk

9. Morwellham QuayNearest town: Tavistock


Status: AONB, WHS

Management:Morwellhamand Tamar Valley Trust

Much of the Tamar Valley in west Devon wasonce home to a thriving mining industry. Thisindustry needed a transport system and anumber of small quays were built along the RiverTamar to ship out the mined material. One suchexample is the restored Morwellham Quay, nowan open-air museum and visitor centre.

Copper ore taken from the nearby George andCharlotte mine, first worked in the early 1700s,was shipped from here. This small mine has manyfeatures characteristic of the other mines foundthroughout the Tamar Valley but here you canactually journey underground and experiencesomething of the working conditions of theminers during the 19th century.

Morwellham Quay is part of the Cornwall andWest Devon Mining Landscape World HeritageSite.

FacilitiesThere is a wildlife reserve, woodland trail, shop,playground, museum, refreshments, toilets, carpark and restaurant on site.

AccessBus: There is a regular service between Tavistockbus station and Lumburn with a half an hourwalk to the quay. There is a summer Sunday busservice. Road: From Tavistock, take the Plymouthroad (A386) before joining the A390. From herejoin the B3257 before turning right toMorwellham Quay. Boat: River trips may beavailable - see www.calstockferry.co.uk.

For more information please visitwww.morwellham-quay.co.ukor telephone 01822 832766

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10. Plym Valley TrailNearest city: Plymouth

OS grid reference: Cann Quarry SX524596, Bickleigh Vale Quarries SX522596.

Management: National Trust &private landowners

The Plym Valley Trail is quite a gentle route forboth cyclists and walkers heading out fromPlymouth towards Dartmoor. Passing throughPlym Bridge Woods, managed by the NationalTrust, the trail offers great views and theopportunity to get close to wildlife, as well asbeing of interest to the geologist.

In particular, the disused sites of Cann andBickleigh Vale quarries are worth a look. Bothquarries were used to mine slate, with CannQuarry being worked as far back as 1683. Theslate was used in roofing and flooring, though itwas markedly inferior to the Welsh product.

The slate was originally a marine mud which,having been buried and turned into mudstone,was heated and compressed as a result of thetremendous forces at work during a collision oftectonic plates. This process altered theorientation of the minerals within the mudstoneallowing it to split easily. That is, it had becomeslate.

Both quarries are cut by a fine grained granitedyke (molten rock which intrudes into the localrocks). This feature is actually known as an elvandyke, ‘elvan’ being an old south-west miningterm for granite dykes.

During the breeding season Cann Quarry is hometo a pair of peregrine falcons and there is usuallya viewing station with telescopes available foruse.

FacilitiesThere are public facilities and refreshments inPlymouth and car parks at Plymbridge to thesouth.

AccessBy foot: Walk along the canal path or the oldrailway cycle route from the National Trust carpark approximately 1 km to the south. Bothquarries lie either side of the River Plym, Cann tothe east and Bickleigh Vale to the west. Bicycle:Plym Valley Trail National Cycle Network route27. Road: From Marsh Mills junction of A38 go toPlympton. Turn left onto Plymbridge Road(Plymbridge is in the middle of Plymbridge Roadand is closed to through traffic). Bus: A regularservice runs between the centre of Plymouth andColwill road (with 1 change and 800m walk toPlymbridge Road).

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© NTPL/Chris King

Further information: please viewwww.nationaltrust.org.uk or call 0870 458 4000.Further details on the geology of these sites areavailable at www.devon.gov.uk/geo-BVQ.pdf andwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-CAQ.pdf

11. Plymouth Sound,Shores and CliffsNearest City: Plymouth

OS grid reference: SX 492 497– SX 487 533

Status: AONB, SSSI, SAC

Management: Ministry of Defence & privatelandowners

This magnificent coastal section runs along theeastern side of Plymouth Sound from AndurnPoint northwards to Mount Batten Point. As youtravel along this route you can experience avaried and impressive geology. The rocks becomeyounger as you head north but all were laiddown during the Devonian Period (417 - 354million years ago), named after this county.

The southernmost outcrops at Andurn Pointconsist mainly of red and green slates withsandstones that were deposited in lakes andrivers in seasonally arid conditions. Headingnorth, the dominant rocks are slates, siltstonesand sandstones but these are greyer in colourand contain some marine fossils, indicating

flooding of a continental edge by the incomingof the sea.

At Bovisand Bay the harder Staddon Grits appearand form the headland from Staddon Pointnorthward. The sandstones in this formationwere deposited in marine sand bars. To thenorth, most of Jenny Cliff Bay is cut into softerand younger marine slates but the northernmostpromontory of Mount Batten Point is made oflimestone laid down in a clear warm tropical sea.

Along most of this coast you can observedramatic faults and folds in the rocks, sometimesproducing a chevron pattern. These give clearevidence of the terrific pressures that wereexerted on the rocks during a period of tectonicplate collision between 330 and 300 million yearsago.

AccessBeaches are only accessible at low tide; CrownhillBay has cliff access to the beach. Road: Siteaccessed from minor roads leading to thebeaches. There is one car park towards the northend of Jennycliff. There is another parking sitebeside the road leading down to Fort Bovisandto the east of Bovisand. Beach café open duringthe season. Foot: The South West Coast Pathwinds along the site. Bus: There is a regularservice from Plymouth (Royal Parade) toTurnchapel.

For more information on the geology pleaseview www.devon.gov.uk/geo-PSC.pdf.

12. WemburyNearest City: Plymouth

OS grid reference:SX 520485 - 504485

Status: VMCA, AONB, SSSI, SAC


This site spans from Wembury Beach west toWembury Point. This area has been designatedan Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and novisitor can fail to be impressed by themagnificent coastline.

The foreshore and cliffs expose excellent sectionsof Lower Devonian rocks - mainly red mudrocks,now metamorphosed to slate, siltstones andsandstones. These are thought to have beenoriginally lain down in mudflats and floodplains

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associated with lakes. Some fossil fish remainshave been found here and there may have beenan occasional connection between these lakesand the nearby sea. In places, folds in the rockcan be seen – an indication of the vast forcesthat have been at work here in the ancient past.

Interestingly, a raised beach platform and afossilised cliff line can be seen at the back of themodern beach. This is largely covered by a stonydeposit (known as ‘head’) formed by downwardsoil movement during the freeze/thaw conditionsof the Ice Age, though at Wembury Point itselfsome remains of the original beach cobble canstill be seen.

FacilitiesThe Wembury Marine centre is operated by theDevon Wildlife Trust.

AccessFoot: The South West Coast Path and Erme-PlymTrail runs throughout the area. Bicycle: The areais easily accessible by bicycle – close links with theNational Cycle Network. Road: Take the A379 atElburton on the east side of Plymstock andfollow signs for Wembury and Wembury Beach.Parking is available at the National Trust carpark. Bus: There is a regular service betweenPlymouth and Wembury.

For further information on this site’s geologyplease visit www.devon.gov.uk/geo-WMP.pdf.For more information on the VMCA please viewwww.devonwildlifetrust.org andwww.wemburymarinecentre.orgor call 01752 862538. See alsowww.nationaltrust.org.uk

13. Ivybridge &the Erme ValleyNearest town: Ivybridge

OS grid reference: SX 633 557 –SX 643558 – SX 633589

Management: Private landowners

The areas of Ivybridge Town and the valley ofthe River Erme to the north and south are veryinteresting for their geological features.

Exposures in the River Erme north of the railwayviaduct show Upper Devonian slates that havebeen baked by the intrusion of hot granite.Dykes of very fine grained granite (known asaplite) are exposed in the river (at SX 6385 5710)and just above this a sheet-like mass of apliteforms the river bed and is intruded into theslates. Providing the water is not too high, thecontact of the main body of the granite with theslates can be seen at SX 6375 5740.

Of particular interest in this area is a largeboulder outwash fan which extends south fromthe mouth of the Erme Gorge. These boulders

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Southern Devon

were probably deposited during a torrential flashflood during the Ice Age. Part of Ivybridge isbuilt on this fan, and its presence can bewitnessed by the use of the boulders as buildingmaterial in the lower parts of the town, as wellas in old field banks in the surroundingcountryside.

FacilitiesThere are cafes, shops and toilets in Ivybridge.

AccessFoot: The area is easily accessed by publicfootpaths. The Erme Valley trail runs 3 milesalong the valley from Ivybridge to the village ofErmington; the route is comprehensively waymarked. Bus: There are regular services fromPlymouth to Ivybridge. Train: Services from Exeterand Plymouth. Road: Ivybridge is just off the A38from Plymouth to Exeter. Car parking is availablein the town. Bicycle: A National Cycle Network(on-road) route goes through Ivybridge andwhen completed will connect to Plymouth.

For more information on the geology of this areaplease visit www.devon.gov.uk/geo-IEV.pdf

14. Blackdown RingsNearest town: Kingsbridge


Status: AONB, Ancient Monument

Management: The Arundell Charity

This site provides a stunning viewpoint showingthe broad geological features of the South Hams.Blackdown Rings consists of an Iron Age hillfortwith a Norman motte and bailey castle builtwithin the prehistoric embankment.

The rocks underlying the site, Staddon Grits, canbe seen in the commemorative stone by the siteentrance. These are harder than the Devonian

slates found to the north and south, so resultingin some of the highest land to the south ofDartmoor. Devon’s oldest rocks, those of the StartComplex, are just visible in the distance to thesouth.

The landforms of the South Hams, seen from thispanoramic viewpoint, can be related to thestructural trends of the Devonian rocks, whichgenerally follow an east-west orientation.However, this contrasts markedly with the north-south alignment of the deeply-cut valley of theRiver Avon, which flows nearby.

A permissive path runs northwards into a newlyestablished woodland. Blackdown Rings is alsovery close to Andrew’s Wood, an attractiveDevon Wildlife Trust nature reserve.

FacilitiesThere is an information board detailing thearchaeological remains found in the area.

AccessFoot: There is a small car park on site with directaccess to the viewpoint and other features. Bus:There is no direct service to the site but there areregular buses from Kingsbridge to CaliforniaCross (with a 2000m walk). Road: The site is sign-posted off the California Cross to Loddiswell roadat Blackdown Cross.

Further information is provided at:www.devon.gov.uk/geo-BLR.pdf. Forinformation on the nearby Andrew’s Woodnature reserve see: www.devonwildlifetrust.org

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© Dartmoor National Park Authority

15. Start Point toPrawle PointNearest town: Kingsbridge/Salcombe

OS grid reference: SX 821376 - 769356


Management: National Trust& private landowners

Start Point to Prawle Point is a truly beautifulstretch of south Devon coastline. It is underlainby rocks that are very different to those of therest of Devon. These are known as mica schist,found at Start Point (SX 828372), and hornblendeschist, which has a green tint and is found atPrawle Point (SX 772352).

These rocks are the result of intense pressure andheat acting on the original rocks during acollision of tectonic plates. The mica schists wereoriginally shales, siltstones and sandstones, whilstthe hornblende schists were once lavas andashes, all probably of Devonian age.

The area displays good examples of beachplatforms including the present wave-cutplatform in the intertidal zone. An older beachplatform occurs just above the present beach andextends back to an old cliff line. Deposited onthis older platform are raised beach depositswhich consist of beach sand and cobbles mixedwith rock debris, known locally as ‘head’,deposited as a result of rock movement duringthe Ice Age.

FacilitiesParking is available at a National Trust car parkat Prawle Point, Lannacombe Beach (very limitedparking) and Start Point (parking at an Estate carpark).

AccessFoot: The South West Coast Path runs throughthe site. Please note that is important to stay onthe public footpath due to dangerous cliff facesalong the site (both above and below the publicfootpath) and to refer to the safety guidance atthe start of this booklet. Please also note thatthe South West Coastal Path section betweenStart Point to Prawle Point is quite long (nearly 6miles). Road: The site can be accessed from theA379, via numerous minor roads (easiest access isvia minor roads to Prawle Point).

For further details please viewwww.nationaltrust.org.uk or call 0870 458 4000.More detailed geological information is availablehere www.devon.gov.uk/geo-PSP.pdf

16. Slapton LeyNearest town: Kingsbridge

OS grid reference: SX 835 455 - 845 466

Status: AONB, SSSI, NNR

Management: Field Studies Council

The key geological feature at this wonderful siteis a dramatic shingle bar running from StreteGate south to the village of Torcross. Known asSlapton Sands, it separates the sea from animportant freshwater lagoon, Slapton Ley. Theridge is made up of flint, chert and quartz

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© Peter Chamberlain

pebbles, some of which are stained red. It isprobable that the major formation of this barrierbegan about 5000 years ago, during a period ofsea level changes. As the sea rose the watertransported the shingle ridge ahead of it. Thislinked the headland at Strete Gate with Torcross,damming a post glacial estuary and forming thefreshwater lagoon. The sediments that haveaccumulated in the lagoon now form animportant record of environmental changes sincethe formation of the ridge.

Replenished with shingle by long shore drift ofdebris derived from cliffs and from sediments onthe sea floor, the ridge remains a dynamicstructure and is vulnerable to the power of thesea. Indeed, the road that runs along the ridgehas recently had to be realigned.

However, a still more dramatic example of thepower of the sea is demonstrated some way tothe south, at Hallsands. This fishing village wasonce protected by a pebble ridge. However,offshore banks focus wave energy at this pointand this, perhaps combined with intertidaldredging to acquire materials for theconstruction of naval dockyards near Plymouth inthe late 19th century, led to large scale erosion.In particular, a series of storms in 1917 haddevastating effect and by the end of Septemberthat year only one house remained habitable.

The ridge and lagoons at Slapton Ley are ofnational importance for their wildlife, includingimportant communities of plants and breedingand passage birds.

FacilitiesRefreshments are available in Slapton and otherlocal villages. There are toilets and picnic sites atthe A379 car parks. There is a field centre, a birdhide and access to guided tours on site.

AccessBus: There is a regular service between Slaptonand Dartmouth, Kingsbridge and Plymouth.Road: Slapton is adjacent to the A379 andSlapton Ley can be accessed by minor roads fromthe A379. Parking can be a problem in Slapton soit is advisable to use car parks along SlaptonSands. Foot: The site is on the South West CoastPath. Bicycle: The nearest route is Route 28 ofthe National Cycle Network.

For more information on the geology of theshingle ridge, please viewwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-SLL.pdf. Furtherinformation on the wildlife of Slapton Ley maybe viewed at www.slnnr.org.uk

17. Berry Headto Sharkham PointNearest town: Brixham


Status: AONB, SSSI, NNR, SAC, AncientMonument

Management: Torbay Coastand Countryside Trust

This dramatic stretch of coastline is oftremendous geological, historical, ecological andlandscape importance.

Berry Head is a large headland of Devonian agelimestone providing an excellent viewpoint fromwhich to admire Torbay’s varied geology andbeautiful coastline. Soaring to a height of 195m,

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it is generally flat topped, with a series of cliffs,steep slopes and ledges reaching down to thesea. This limestone was deposited as part of areef in a tropical sea and is exposed in oldquarries at the top of the cliff on the northernside of the site. These provided material for theNapoleonic fortifications that are still wellpreserved at Berry Head. At Shoalstone Beachwave cut platforms have exposed two sets of redsandstone sedimentary dykes. Some of these arelined with large sparry calcite crystals.

From Sharkham Point it is possible to look backat the impressive cliffs made of limestone andmudstone and see signs of folding. Iron miningused to take place at Sharkham Point, just to thenorth of the point itself. Besides its use in theproduction of iron, the haematite ore waspowdered and formed the basis for an anti-corrosion paint.

The link between geology and wildlife is clearlydemonstrated along this stretch of coast. Forexample, there are large areas of species-richlimestone grassland, containing a number of rareplants, and different rates of erosion of the cliffsof Berry Head have created a series of ledgeswhich are now home to the largest breedingcolony of guillemots on the south coast ofEngland.

FacilitiesThere are toilets and a café at Berry Head. Avisitor centre is open from Easter to late Octoberand an unmanned information point is open allyear.

AccessFoot: The South West Coast Path runs throughthe site. Please do not get too close to the cliffedges and refer to the safety notes at the start ofthis booklet. There is some easy access path atBerry Head. Train and bus: There is a mainlinetrain station at nearby Paignton and bus servicesoperate from here to Brixham. Road: Access is viathe A3022 and the A379. Car parking is availableat Berry Head and Sharkham Point. Boat: One ofthe best ways to view the geology of thiscoastline is by boat and cruises are availablealong this coast from Torquay, Paignton andBrixham Harbour.

For further information on this site and details ofevents, please viewwww.englishrivierageopark.org.uk,www.devon.gov.uk/geo-BSP.pdf andwww.countryside-trust.org.ukor call 01803 882619.

18. DaddyholeNearest town: Torquay


Status: SSSI


The coastal headland comprises impressive coves,cliffs, foreshore and quarry exposures. DaddyholeCove, together with a small quarry at TrianglePoint to the north-east (accessed via MeadfootBeach), shows a superb example of limestonefrom the Devonian period. Underlying thelimestone are fine-grained sedimentary rocksknown as shales. Two features of the site are ofparticular interest. Firstly, it exhibits dramaticarch-shaped folding of the rocks. Secondly, thesite has yielded many fossils, particularly at thetransition between the limestone and the shales.These include fossilised corals and brachiopodshells (marine invertebrates) important ininterpreting the palaeoecology of the MiddleDevonian period.

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© Paul Glendell/Natural England

At the western end of the cove there is a goodexample of landslip and rockfalls but please becareful when exploring and follow the safetyguidance at the start of this booklet.

FacilitiesBeach café, toilets.

AccessFoot: The South West Coast Path runs throughthe site, from Torquay Harbour follow ParkhillRoad. Train and Bus: Main line train stationnearby and bus services run from Exeter andPlymouth to Torquay. Road: The site lies east ofTorquay Harbour and is accessed by theMeadfoot Sea Road. Parking is available. Boat:One of the best ways to view the geology of thiscoastline is by boat and cruises are availablealong this coast at Torquay, Paignton andBrixham Harbour.

For further information on this site, please viewwww.englishrivierageopark.org.uk or please call01803 606035 or view www.devon.gov.uk/geo-DAD.pdf

19. Kents CavernNearest town: Torquay


Status: SSSI, Ancient Monument

Management: Kents Cavern Ltd.

Kents Cavern is fascinating for both its geologyand human history. It boasts beautiful andspectacular geological formations and significantprehistoric finds, including flint hand-axes datingfrom over 450,000 years ago. Indeed, it is one ofthe oldest recognisable human occupation sitesin Britain. The oldest human bone ever found inBritain was discovered in Kents Cavern, ajawbone dated at 37-40,000 years old. Scientificresearch is on-going to discover if the bone isfrom a Neanderthal or a modern human.

The caves are within the Devonian limestone andwere formed by water erosion over millions ofyears. Interestingly, whilst the limestone isnaturally white much of Kents Cavern appearsreddish-brown due to the iron oxide contained inthe material above (similar to the south Devonsoil). Some of the most notable geologicalfeatures are formations of calcium carbonate alsoknown as calcite. These include impressivestalagmites (growing from the floor). KentsCavern has yielded some important fossil remainsincluding such remarkable creatures as sabre-toothed cat, cave bear, mammoth and woollyrhinoceros. Many of the larger bones clearlyshow the marks of hyena teeth.

FacilitiesRestaurant, shop, licensed bar and guided tours.

AccessFoot: From the South West Coast Path leave thepath near the Palace Hotel. Bus: Services runfrom Exeter to Wellswood. Road: Follow theA380 from Exeter to Torquay harbour and thenfollow the brown tourist signs.

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© Kents Cavern Ltd

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For further information and details of openingtimes and admission charges visitwww.kents-cavern.co.uk or call 01803 215136.Further geological information is available atwww.englishrivierageopark.org.uk andwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-KEC.pdf

20. Hope’s Noseto Walls HillNearest town: Torquay

OS grid reference: SX 932654 – SX 947635

Status: SSSI


This impressive stretch of coastline can be easilyaccessed from Torquay and demonstrates someimportant geological features.

The main rock here is Devonian limestone andthis can be seen in some excellent exposures.Some of these display abundant collections offossil animals, including well preserved corals -evidence of times when Torbay was locatedsouth of the equator and bathed in shallowtropical seas. Other notable features of the site,particularly on the eastern side of Hope’s Nose,are a number of distinct mineral-rich veins. It isthe only known location in Britain for theassemblage of minerals present, including nativegold and rarities such as palladium (a metallicelement that resembles platinum).

On the southern side of Hope’s Nose, and also onthe nearby Thatcher Rock, raised beaches can beseen about 6m above present day sea levels.These are very rich in fossil marine molluscs, with17 species present at Hope’s Nose, and no fewerthan 43 species at Thatcher Rock. These beachestell a story about past sea-level change and datefrom a warm interglacial period in the Ice Agewhen the seas were much higher than today.

A large fold can also be seen in the limestone atHope’s Nose which is the result of earthmovement under great pressure caused bytectonic plate collision.

The coastline from Hope’s Nose north to WallsHill well demonstrates the connection betweengeology and wildlife and is of nationalimportance for its limestone woodlands andspecies-rich grassland.

FacilitiesThere are a number of parking areas along thecoastal section.

AccessFoot: The South West Coast path runs throughthe site. Bus and Train: There are regular servicesfrom Exeter to Torquay. Road: Follow the A380from Exeter to Torquay. From Torquay Harbourfollow Meadfoot Sea Rd to Ilsham Marine Drive.Boat: One of the best ways to view the geologyof this coastline is from the sea and cruises areavailable from Torquay, Paignton and BrixhamHarbour.

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© Still Imaging

For further information and details of events onthis site, please viewwww.englishrivierageopark.org.uk,www.countryside-trust.org.uk or please call01803 606035. Also, further geological details areavailable at www.devon.gov.uk/geo-HWH.pdf

21. Dawlish Warren& CliffsNearest town: Dawlish

OS grid reference: Warren - SX 985793; Cliffs - SX977778

Status: LNR, SSSI, NNR, SAC, SPA

Management: TeignbridgeDistrict Council (the Warren)

Dawlish Warren is a fascinating place. This sandspit at the mouth of the Exe Estuary is not onlyof geological interest but is also a nationallyimportant habitat for a wide variety of plantsand animals. It also has a protective effect on theestuary and helps to prevent localised flooding.

Dawlish Warren is a rare ‘double sand spit’ withtwo dune ridges that, in the recent past, wereseparated by a tidal inlet. The two ridges can stillbe seen, most clearly from the meadow known asGreenland Lake. The Warren is also unusualbecause it is an acidic sand spit and is not derivedfrom shell material.

Compared to most sites of geological interest,Dawlish Warren is very young – a mere 7000years old! It was created by post glacial sea levelrises. As might be imagined, a sand spit is not themost stable of structures and its continuedpresence relies on a balance between erosion onthe one hand and the arrival of sediments thattravel along the coastline in a north-easterlydirection (longshore drift). The wind has also hada significant effect on the Warren, with sanddunes visible in the exposed areas facing theopen sea. The more sheltered area behind thespit has developed an area of intertidal sand andmud that provides feeding grounds for winteringwildfowl and waders. The Warren continues toevolve and in recent decades storms and highertides have resulted in an overall loss of sediment.

Nearby to the south-west can be seen theimpressive Dawlish Cliffs. They show some of thefinest exposures of Permian sands in Britain and

their red colouration is a striking feature of thecoastline. Ancient winds piled up these sandsupon what was a gravelly desert floor and youare, in effect, looking at fossilised sand dunes.The modern effect of wind erosion on these cliffshas produced some striking patterns and forms inthe exposed sand.

FacilitiesNearby parking, shops and cafes. Cycling is notpermitted within the reserve at Dawlish Warren,where dog restrictions also apply all year round.

AccessTrain: Direct services from Exeter and Plymouth.Bus: Regular bus services run to Dawlish Warrenfrom Exeter. Road: Leave the M5 Motorway atjunction 30 and follow signs for Dawlish alongthe A379.

For further information please viewwww.dawlish.gov.uk,www.devon.gov.uk/geo-DWW.pdf andwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-DWC.pdf.

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© Craig Dixon

22. Orcombe Pointto LympstoneNearest town: Exmouth

OS grid reference:SY 256896 – SY 323913

Status: AONB, SSSI, SPA, WHS

Management: National Trust, EastDevon District Council & privatelandowners

Orcombe Point marks the western gateway ofthe Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site and itsoldest rocks, dating from the early Triassic periodaround 252 million years ago, can be seen here.The dramatic red mudstone and sandstone revealevidence of a previous desert environmentcrossed with seasonal life-giving rivers similar toNamibia today. Rare plant fossils have beenfound here. Of more recent design is theGeoneedle unveiled by HRH the Prince of Walesin 2002 in celebration of the Jurassic Coast WorldHeritage Site.

Passing westward from Orcombe Point you cometo the Maer Local Nature Reserve. This is an areaof sand dunes which before the construction ofthe road along the seafront would have been alandward extension of the bigger dunes on thebeach. This sand rests on a raised beach which is8 to10m above the present beach level.

Low cliffs at the northern end of Lympstoneshow an exposure of a rock consisting of largeangular pebbles, made from a variety of rocktypes including granite, sandstone, and volcanicrocks. This is known as the Exe Breccia (a wordthat literally means ‘rubble’) and is the result oftorrential flash floods bringing material frommountainous ground to the west.

This stretch of coastline also offers terrific viewsof the Exe Estuary, a site of internationalimportance for its wildlife.

FacilitiesToilets, cafés and car parking are available inExmouth.

AccessBicycle: Cycle routes from Exeter – Exmouth willbe open mid 2008. Bus & Train: Frequent localservices run from Exeter to Exmouth. Road: Onthe A376 to Exmouth, follow signs to theseafront. There is a car park in Lympstoneopposite the Swan Inn within easy walkingdistance of Lympstone pier which is just south ofthe cliff section. Foot: From Lympstone toExmouth follow the East Devon Way footpathand from Exmouth to Orcombe Point the pathjoins up with the South West Coast Path. Pleasebe careful whilst exploring the coastline andrefer to the safety notes at the start of thisbooklet.

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© Sarah Firth

© Sarah Firth

Further information: please viewwww.jurassiccoast.com/index.jsp orhttp://www.exe-estuary.org. A copy of the MaerLocal Nature Reserve leaflet can be viewed atwww.eastdevon.gov.uk/cs-maerleaflet.pdf

23. Budleigh SaltertonCliffs and the OtterEstuaryNearest town: Budleigh Salterton

OS grid reference: SY 055814

Status: AONB, SSSI, WHS

Management: East DevonPebblebed Heaths ConservationTrust (Otter Estuary)

The cliffs in the western part of BudleighSalterton expose the full thickness of the LowerTriassic Budleigh Salterton Pebble Beds. The Bedsare made up of well-rounded pink, red and greycobbles and pebbles that resulted from theerosion of 400 million year old quartzite outcropslying to the south-west, possibly now underyounger rocks in the English Channel or evenBrittany. These were laid down as a coarse gravelin a large braided river which crossed a Triassicdesert 246 million years ago. Over the yearserosion processes have released the pebbles fromthe bed thus creating the present pebble beach.Some of these pebbles have been carried by theaction of the sea as far east as Sussex and Kent.

The Budleigh Salterton Pebble Beds are overlainby red Otter Sandstone which is of mixed wind -blown and river origin and can be seenwest of the

promenade and in low cliffs behind it. AtOtterton Point, on the eastern side of the mouthof the Otter Estuary, this sandstone has yieldedimportant fossil remains including ‘the Devonrhynchosaur’, an ancient reptile that has allowedthese rocks to be dated to the Triassic period.The Otter Estuary is also important for itsmodern day wildlife.

FacilitiesThere are information boards, viewing platforms,toilets, shops, cafes, a tourist information centreand a car park. When walking along thecoastline please take care and refer to the safetyguidance at the start of this booklet.

AccessFoot: Access is via the South West Coast Path oralong the beach from Budleigh Salterton.Bicycle: There is an Exmouth to BudleighSalterton cycle route. Easy access on the westernside of the estuary. Bus: Buses run regularly fromExmouth and Sidmouth. Train: Train services runto Exmouth. Road: From Exeter, take the A376 toExmouth and then go west along the B3178 toBudleigh. There is car parking at BudleighSalterton.

For further information, please viewwww.jurassiccoast.com orwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-BSC.pdf

24. Ladram Bay toSidmouthNearest town: Sidmouth

OS grid reference: SY 096850 –SY121869

Status: AONB, SSSI, WHS

Management: The National Trustand Clinton Devon Estates

The views from Ladram Bay to Sidmouth aresome of the most dramatic on the East Devoncoastline. Both Ladram Bay and Sidmouth aresituated on the Triassic Otter Sandstone. This isthe same sandstone which, at depth, is animportant oil reservoir at the Wytch Farm Oilfieldnear Poole.

Among the more impressive sights along thisstretch of coast are the sea stacks at Ladram Bay.The sea hollowed out caves in the relatively softOtter Sandstone and these, in time and with thefurther action of the sea, came to form arches of

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© Richard Edmonds/Dorset County Council

rock separate from the main cliff. Eventually,these arches collapsed, leaving the stacks we seetoday. The base of the stacks is formed of aharder band of sandstone and this is preventingtheir complete destruction by the sea. Towardsthe south-west of the Bay can be seen some palepipes in the sandstone, a visual echo throughtime of the roots of plants that managed tosurvive in the dry Triassic conditions. Within thecliffs below High Peak and Chit Rocks atSidmouth a number of very rare fossils of Triassicfish, reptiles and amphibians have been found.

At Windgate Cliffs you can head inland to visitPeak Hill and Mutter’s Moor. These sites overlayan interesting geology in their own right. Forexample, Peak Hill is underlain by flint gravelthat was probably left behind following thesolution of an original cover of chalk during theearly Tertiary period. These sites also make apleasing diversion for their wildlife and views,with areas of heath and woodland to beenjoyed.

FacilitiesToilets and cafés are available in Sidmouth.

AccessPlease take care on the coastline and refer to thesafety guidance at the start of this booklet.

Foot: One of the best ways to get to Ladram Bayis by following the South West Coast Path fromeither Budleigh Salterton or Sidmouth. Bus:regular services run between Budleigh Salterton

and Sidmouth. The Sidmouth Hopper runs toPeak Hill (summer service). Road: On the A3052,at Newton Poppleford, take the B3178 towardsBudleigh Salterton and go through ColatonRaleigh. After one mile, take a left turn at thebrick monument signposted Otterton andLadram Bay. When in Otterton, simply follow thesigns to Ladram Bay.

For further information on this site, please viewwww.jurassiccoast.com orwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-LBS.pdf andwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-PHM.pdf

25. Sidmouth to Beer CoastNearest towns: Sidmouth & Beer

OS grid reference: SY 130873 - SY 236899

Status: AONB, SSSI, SAC, WHS


Between Sidmouth and Beer the geology isstrongly influenced by a gentle easterly dip inthe layers of the rocks that are present. Theresult is that as you travel east the visible rockschange from those of the Triassic Period (230million years) to the more recent Cretaceous (70million years ago). This reflects the unique ‘walkthrough time’ that can be experienced along thelength of the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site,of which this is a part.

Just east of Sidmouth are the Triassic MerciaMudstones and these bring a distinctive red

Eastern Devon

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© Richard Edmonds/Dorset County Council

colour to the rocks. They were deposited intemporary lakes and rivers in a desertenvironment. These mudstones are then cappedwith yellow Upper Greensand and white Chalk(this from the younger Cretaceous Period; ‘Creta’is Latin for ‘chalk’). Both these rocks were laiddown in a marine environment, the chalk mainlyconsisting of the skeletons and shells of countlessnumbers of organisms, most of them microscopic.As you move towards Beer the easterly dipincreasingly brings the pale sands of the UpperGreensand and its overlying Chalk down tobeach level and by Beer Head the entire cliff istaken up by these Cretaceous rocks.

All things being equal, you could expect to seeJurassic rocks lying above the older Triassicmaterial and below the younger Cretaceousdeposits. The Jurassic Period began about 206million years ago. However, you will notice noreference above to Jurassic rocks between theTriassic mudstones and the Greensand and Chalkof the Cretaceous Period – they are missing fromthe site and have been eroded away. This kind ofbreak in the geological story is known as anunconformity.

FacilitiesThere are car parks, toilets, restaurants, shopsand pubs in Sidmouth, Branscombe and Beer.

AccessFoot: The South West Coast Path runs throughthis area. Please also refer to the safety guidanceat the start of this booklet. Bus: The X53 Busregularly operates in the area. Road: On theA376 to Exmouth, follow signs to the seafront.

Bicycle: There is an inland on-road signed cycleroute between Sidmouth and Beer.

For details please view www.nationaltrust.org.uk,www.jurassiccoast.com and further geologicalinformation is available atwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-SID.pdf

26. Beer Quarry CavesNearest town: Beer

OS grid reference: SY 214895


Management: Beer Quarry Caves Ltd.

Beer Quarry Caves provide a fascinating insightinto the geology of East Devon, where a uniquelimestone was formed on the seabed 92 millionyears ago from a mixture of pulverised shells,fine sand and clay. Beer Stone is ideally suitedfor fine detail carvings but hardens on exposureto the air and was used in the construction of 24cathedrals including Exeter, Winchester and StPaul’s, as well as Hampton Court and WindsorCastle.

Conducted tours of these vast undergroundcaverns, which were started by the Romans andworked until the early 20th century, illustratehow the stone was quarried by candlelight withpick axes and saws, then transported on horse-drawn wagons and by barges which sailed fromBeer beach. The Roman chambers (where theroof is supported by typical Roman arches andthe walls bear tool marks) now house a smallmuseum. The quarry provided a place of refugefor Catholics during times of persecution and ahiding place for contraband when Beer villagewas renowned for smuggling. It now provides awinter home to many species of hibernatingbats.

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© Sarah Firth

© Beer Quarry Caves

"

FacilitiesGuided tours, extensive free parking, toilets andlight refreshments. Open daily Monday beforeEaster to end October and at other times by priorarrangement.

AccessFoot: Accessible from the South West Coast Path.Road: Follow brown and white tourist signs fromA3052 (Sidmouth to Lyme Regis road) off the M5junction 30 or signs from Beer and Seaton.Bicycle: There are signed on-road cycle routesthat run through and around Beer.

Further information:www.beerquarrycaves.fsnet.co.ukor call 01297 680282.

27. Axmouth to LymeRegis UndercliffsNearest towns: Seaton & Lyme Regis

OS grid reference: SY 256896 –SY 327912

Status: AONB, SSSI, NNR, SAC, WHS

Management: Natural England

This magnificent 304 hectare nature reservemanaged by Natural England offers dramaticcoastal scenery and is of internationalimportance for its geological andgeomorphological features and wildlife, whichare well viewed from the beach or even betterfrom a boat.

Travelling from Axmouth to Lyme Regis the rocksget younger, providing a rare opportunity toobserve ‘geological time’. In the west, nearAxmouth, can be seen 235 million year old redmudstones deposited during the arid TriassicPeriod; the grey bands are the remains of old saltlakes. Heading east, these are replaced by 195million year old grey mudstones and limestonesof the Lias (the oldest part of the Jurassic Period).These Jurassic sediments were laid down in awarm, shallow tropical sea and can yield thefossils of marine animals. Ammonites are notuncommon and past discoveries have includedmarine reptiles such as ichthyosaurs andplesiosaurs. Please leave all in situ fossils for

Eastern Devon

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© Beer Quarry Caves


others to enjoy. In places, these rocks are overlainby the more recent sandstones, clays and chalk ofthe Cretaceous Period, laid down in marineconditions about 70 million years ago.

Extensive and dramatic landslides have alsoheavily influenced the coastline as you see ittoday and it is not unusual for the more recentCretaceous rocks to have slipped down to beachlevel.

FacilitiesThe nearest toilet and refreshment facilities arein Lyme Regis and Seaton.

AccessFoot: The South West Coast Path runs throughthis 7 mile long reserve but it does not provideaccess to the beach, which may be gained ateither Axmouth or Lyme Regis (hazards hereinclude rock fall and high tides). Bus and train:There are regular bus services to Seaton andLyme Regis, including the ‘Jurassic Bus’ (X53), andbus links to the train station at Axminster. Road:There are public car parks at both Seaton andLyme Regis. Boat: There are trips from Beer andLyme Regis.

For further information on this site, please viewwww.jurassiccoast.com,www.naturalengland.org.uk orwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-ALU.pdf

28. Exeter City Walls& CathedralNearest City: Exeter

OS grid reference (Cathedral): SX 921925

Status: Listed buildings /Scheduled AncientMonument

Management: Exeter CityCouncil, Chapter of ExeterCathedral & private landowners

Over 70% of the wall that once protected Exeterstill remains and reveals a lot about the geologyof the local area. Work began on the wall about1800 years ago by the Romans and the followingcenturies saw many alterations and repairs,generally using whatever material was to befound

nearby. A walk along the walls will reveal arange of different rock types.

The early Roman construction makes use ofpurplish grey volcanic lava of Permian age(known as ‘trap’), which was partly quarriednearby from the site of the Rougemont Castle.In the Middle Ages repairers used red sandstoneor Heavitree Breccia (Permian, again), anotherstone found locally in Exeter. Local slates andwhite sandstone can also be seen; possibly evenstone left over from the building of theCathedral was used.

Exeter Cathedral is magnificent and some haveclaimed that it possesses the most varied geologyof any British cathedral. Materials from over 20different quarries, many of them local, were usedin its construction.

The outer and inner Cathedral walls are made ofSalcombe Stone, a sandstone quarried fromSalcombe Regis in east Devon. Between thesewalls is a loose filling of the same volcanic trapused in the construction of the City walls. Minesin the chalk at Beer, also on the east coast ofDevon, were worked to provide stone for use insome of the Cathedral’s sculptures, as can beseen on the impressive image screen at the frontof the building. Further local geology can beseen inside the Cathedral. For example, thepillars supporting the Patteson Pulpit are madeof a Devonian limestone that can take a polishand which has been deformed by earthmovements such that some of the corals within itappear elongated. It can be found at a numberof sites in South West Devon.

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© Sarah Firth

FacilitiesCathedral: Tours available; shop and café on site.Special tours can be arranged by contacting thevisitors office. Toilets available for Cathedralvisitors. City Walls: information panels have beenlaid along the walls to highlight the key eventsthat have affected the wall and the people ofExeter. For children there are quizzes and puzzlesto solve along the way so bring paper and apencil with you!

AccessFoot: The Cathedral is open to visitors at sethours. Free guided tours take place from Marchto October. The City Walls are accessible all yearround. Train and Bus: Located in the city centrethe Cathedral is easily accessed by sustainabletransport. Buses are regular and the city isserviced by Exeter St David’s and Central Trainstations which are just a short walk away fromthe cathedral and the city walls. Bicycle: Thereare many cycle routes in and around Exeter tothe Cathedral. Road: Follow the M5 to Exeter.

For further information on the Cathedral pleaseview www.exeter-cathedral.org.uk or call 01392285 983. For further information on the citywalls, please view www.exeter.gov.uk.More information on Exeter’s geology can befound in Exeter in Stone, an urban geology byJane Dove and published by Thematic Trails.

29. Brampford SpekeNearest City: Exeter


Status: SSSI


This site is an ideal and very pleasant location tosee the River Exe as it snakes its way through theExe Valley, and well demonstrates how a typicalmeandering river can effect the development ofa floodplain. Here, processes of erosion anddeposition are causing the River Exe to cutthrough the local Permian sandstones.

The river is eroding the banks on the outsidebends of the meanders. On the inside bends theriver has less force and so deposits sediment,particularly heavier materials such as gravel. Bythis action the river migrates and lays down alayer of mainly gravelly sediment behind it. Attimes of very high flow the river spills over itsbanks and spreads over the floodplain depositingsand and loam over the coarser sediments left bythe meandering channel.

FacilitiesThere is limited parking for cars and minibuses inBrampford Speke. Toilets and refreshments areavailable in Brampford Speke. School parties arewelcome by arrangement, please contact01392 841785.

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© Sue Satchell

AccessFoot: The Exe Valley Way leads across the siteand a public footpath leads on to Stoke Canon.Bus: There are a few buses each day from Exeter.Road: This area can be reached by taking theA377 north from Exeter in the direction ofCrediton and following a minor road to thevillage of Brampford Speke.

For further information on this site, please view:www.devon.gov.uk/geo-BRS.pdf

30. Killerton ParkNearest City: Exeter

OS grid reference: SS 973007

Status: SSSI


The area around Killerton shows signs of havingexperienced high levels of volcanic activity about285 million years ago. Evidence of this can beseen all around the area from the naturallandscape to the local buildings.

The high ground behind Killerton House is madeup of purplish tinged basalt lava. This lavapoured out on to a rocky and sandy desert floorand probably came up through a series of cracksin the ground rather than through a single vent.

The lava has been quarried for many yearsproviding the material for local buildings such asKillerton Chapel.

FacilitiesThere is a shop, refreshments, guided tours, apicnic area, events and routes for walking andcycling available at the site.

AccessRoad: From Exeter follow the Cullompton road(B318); from M5 northbound, exit J30 via Pinhoeand Broadclyst; from M5 southbound, exit J28.Bus: Regular services from Exeter to SilvertonTurn and a 15 min walk to Killerton House.Bicycle: National Cycle Network 52 runs fromPinhoe to Killerton House.

For more information about Killerton Houseplease view www.nationaltrust.org.uk andfurther geologiocal information is available atwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-KIL.pdf

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Killerton Chapel

© Peter Chamberlain

31. Lynmouth areaNearest town: Lynton

OS grid reference: SS723495


Management: NationalTrust, Exmoor NationalPark & private landowners

This area on the beautiful coast of ExmoorNational Park is home to a number of fascinatinggeological features.

To the west of Lynton is the famous Valley of theRocks. The site has excellent exposures of theLynton Beds that are rich in fossils and are someof the oldest Devonian rocks in the north Devon– Somerset area. However, it is perhaps thetopography of the site that is most dramatic,with many classic landforms on show. Theseinclude a dry valley and a number of periglacialfeatures demonstrating the effects of thefreezing temperatures present here during theIce Age when glaciers reached as far south as thenorth Devon coast.

To the east, at Lynmouth, a large boulder fan canbe seen extending into the Bristol Channel fromthe mouth of the East and West Lyn rivers. Thisbears witness to major flooding over thousandsof years and in particular to the disaster ofAugust 1952 following a period of very heavy

rainfall. Water flowed in sheets over thesurrounding open moors and the resultingvolume of water - estimated to be the equivalentof three months discharge of the River Thames -moved over 50,000 tonnes of boulders, some ofmore than 10 tonnes each. Many of theseboulders can still be seen in the river beds andother features associated with the flood, such asboulder field deposits, can still be observed inthe upper valleys.

FacilitiesLynmouth and Lynton are popular tourist spotsand a range of facilities are available.Information on the floods can be found in thePower of Water Exhibition at Glen Lyn Gorge.

AccessFoot: The South West Coast Path runs throughLynmouth and Lynton. Bus: A number of servicesare available from nearby towns, includingBarnstaple, Ilfracombe and Combe Martin. Road:Follow the A399 from Ilfracombe and CombeMartin, or north from the A361. Then take theA39 towards Lynton and Lynmouth.

For further details on the geology of this areaplease view www.devon.gov.uk/geo-WEC.pdfand www.devon.gov.uk/geo-RLL.pdf.

32. Combe Martin Bayto Hele BayNearest town: Ilfracombe

OS grid reference: SS 536479 – SS 586484

Status: VMCA, AONB, SSSI,National Park

Management: National Trust, privatelandowners and Combe MartinParish Council.

Commencing within Exmoor National Park, thisbeautiful stretch of coastline reveals somedramatic geology of the Devonian age. There area number of very good exposures of sandstonesand mudstones, and within these can be found a

Northern Devon and Exmoor

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© NTPL/David Noton

number of limestone bands, especially prominentat Rillage. These bands of limestone containfossils, including corals, fish fragments andbrachiopods (marine invertebrates) suggestingthey were laid down in a shallow marineenvironment.

A particularly impressive feature of the coastlineis the large number of folds that can be seen inthe rock. They clearly indicate the tremendouspressures that were once at play here and arethe result of the tectonic plate collision. Some ofthe bedding dips at angles of between 35° and40° but other examples are almost vertical.

Combe Martin once mined silver for the Crown,as well as lead; iron ore was also worked. Part ofa mine adit can be seen in the cliffs on the north-eastern side of the beach. Lime burning was alsopractised, Combe Martin having more kilns thanany other north Devon parish.

FacilitiesParking is available at both Combe Martin Bayand Hele Bay. There is a small geology display atthe Tourist Information Centre, near Kiln CarPark. There is also a museum in Combe Martin.

AccessFoot: There is access to both beaches (Hele Bayand Combe Martin Bay) as well as access tosmaller secluded beaches such as Broadstrandand Watermouth. However, there is no access tomuch of the foreshore along the coastline andthe dangers of falling from the cliff or gettingcut off by incoming tides are high. The site canbe best viewed from the beaches at low tide orfrom the South West Coast Path. Please also referto the safety guidance at the start of thisbooklet. Road: Take the A399 from Ilfracombeand follow signs to Combe Martin Bay. Bus:There are regular services between Ilfracombeand Combe Martin and Hele Bay. Bicycle: Thereare signed on-road cycle routes betweenIlfracombe, Combe Martin Bay and Hele Bay.

For further information please viewwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-HSC.pdf

33. Woolacombeto IlfracombeNearest town: Ilfracombe

OS grid reference: SS 457439 –SS 511476

Status: VMCA, AONB, SSSI


Devon’s coastline shows some spectaculargeology and this is certainly true betweenWoolacombe to Ilfracombe.

Woolacombe itself is home to an impressiveseries of sand dunes. A short way to the north isBarricane Beach. Here, slates deposited in ashallow marine environment during the UpperDevonian are well exposed and are very rich infossils.

From here the South West Coast Path passesthrough the wonderful Morte Point, with cliffs ofslate rising from 50m to 100m, and on throughsome of the most spectacular of Devon’scoastline to Ilfracombe.

The same tremendous forces that have causedrocks to be heaved up and folded in other partsof South West England caused similardeformation along this coast. The rocks werecaught between two converging tectonic plates,were compressed and their minerals re-crystallised and re-orientated. This resulted in themore mud-rich rocks developing the ability toeasily split (this is known as ‘slaty cleavage’).

Good examples of slaty cleavage can be seenwith care from the cliffs at Windy Cove on MortePoint and further along in the cliffs of TunnelBeach at Ilfracombe. As the name suggests,Tunnel Beach is reached through a tunnel whichbranches to the left and right. The left branchleads to ‘Gent’s Beach’ whilst the right branchtakes you to ‘Lady’s Beach’, a reminder of thedays when trips to the seaside were undertakenwith a sense of decorum and modesty in mind.

FacilitiesThe Devon Wildlife Trust organises guided rockpool adventures and other organised events.There are mini-marine centres at IlfracombeMuseum, Mortehoe Heritage Centre andBraunton Countryside Centre. The National Trustorganises many guided walks and events,

39

including tractor/trailer rides to see the seals atMorte Point. In Ilfracombe there is an Aquarium.There is a small geology display at the MortehoeHeritage Centre/Museum.

AccessFoot: The South West Coast Path runs the entirelength of the North Devon VMCA. Please takecare and refer to the safety guidance at the startof this booklet. Road: From Barnstaple follow theA361 to Ilfracombe (Woolacombe is a turning offthe A361 onto the B3343). Bus: There is a regularservice from Barnstaple to Ilfracombe and fromBarnstaple to Woolacombe (with a change inTrimstone). Bicycle: There is a National CycleRoute (on and off road) inland betweenWoolacombe and Ilfracombe connecting toBarnstaple.

To find out more about the North Devon VMCAplease telephone 01271 812777 or viewwww.devonwildlifetrust.org. Also,www.nationaltrust.org.uk.

34. LundyNearest towns: Bideford & Ilfracombe


Status: SSSI, MNR, SAC

Management: The Landmark Trust (owned by theNational Trust)

Lundy is an island in the Bristol Channel, lyingonly 18 kilometres from mainland Devon. It isjust five and a half kilometres long and less thana kilometre wide, and has been designated

England’s first Marine Nature Reserve. A visit tothe island is a unique and worthwhileexperience.

Some of the rocks that make up Lundy began toform 380 million years ago when shallow marinemuds were laid down and then compressed andheated to form slates. These ‘Morte Slates’ cropout in the extreme south-east of the island nearthe quay. However, most of Lundy is composed ofgranite, though not the same 280 million yearold granite seen at Dartmoor. Instead it is a mere60 million years old. It was injected into theMorte Slates during a period of volcanic activityconnected with the opening of the AtlanticOcean.

Unlike mainland Devon, Lundy was covered byglaciers during the Ice Age and this had aprofound effect upon the shape of the island. Itoriginally took the form of a cone but the icedecapitated this, leaving the flat topped islandwe see today.

FacilitiesOpen all year. The ferry operates from late Marchto late October and a helicopter service operatesthought the winter months for staying visitors. ALandrover can be provided at the jetty fordisabled visitors. There is a pub and shop, andaccommodation (book in advance).


40

© Paul Glendell/Natural England

"

AccessFerry: From Bideford or Ilfracombe. Train andBus: Frequent services from Barnstaple trainstation to Bideford or Ilfracombe.

For further details please viewwww.lundyisland.co.uk, orwww.nationaltrust.org.uk.

35. Baggy Point to SauntonNearest town: Barnstaple

OS grid reference: SS 445407 toSS 446378

Status: VMCA, AONB, SSSI


The coastline from Baggy Point south to SauntonSands is a magnificent sight. The rocks are about370 million years old (Devonian) and include awide range of sedimentary rock types such assandstones, shales, slates and limestones. Thebulk of these were probably laid down in shallowmarine or brackish waters. Today, the effect isimpressive and the coastline boasts rugged cliffsrising in places to 60m. There is evidence of thepast stresses and pressures that have been atwork here, with dramatic folding and fractures inthe rocks being quite common.

Of particular interest are the signs of Ice Ageactivity in the area. Raised platforms cut by waveaction at times of high sea levels are now hometo a number of large boulders transported hereby ice. Some of these may have been carriedconsiderable distances. The most famous, theSaunton Pink Granite (SS 44013787), weighs in at12 tonnes and is likely to have come all the wayfrom the north-west highlands of Scotland. This

can be viewed from the foreshore but if visitingthe erratic please check the incoming tide asthere is the risk of being cut off from the beach.See safety guidance at the front of this booklet.

FacilitiesThere are various car parks which are easilyaccessible. For access to Baggy Point use theNational Trust car park at Croyde Bay, thenfollow the South West Coast Path (easy accesspath to Baggy Point). There are also car parks atSaunton Sands and Downend near Croyde.Saunton Sands has a restaurant and bothSaunton Sands and Downend have toilets and asmall shop.

AccessFoot: From Croyde Bay the site can be accessedfrom the South West Coast Path. Bus: There areregular buses from Barnstaple to Saunton. Road:The site is located approximately 8 miles alongthe B3231 from Barnstaple (A361).

For further information on this site please viewwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-SAU.pdf.

36. Braunton BurrowsNearest towns: Braunton and Barnstaple


Status: AONB, SSSI, SAC, UNESCO BiosphereReserve

Management: Christie Estates& Ministry of Defence

Braunton Burrows is a dramatic seriesof sand dunes located at the mouth of the Taw-Torridge Estuary and is one of the mostimportant examples of its type in Britain. Fewother dune systems are less affected byunderlying geology and afforestation, makingthis a key site for the study of coastalgeomorphology.

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© Sarah Firth

At over 5km long and 1.5km wide, the sheerscale of Braunton Burrows is impressive. Towardsthe centre of the site some of the dunes reach upto 30m in height and are amongst the largest inthe country. Smaller foredunes, flooded slacksand past evidence of major sand blowouts canalso be seen.

The dunes are of international importance fortheir wildlife, including a number of rarities, andform the core of a Biosphere Reserve.

FacilitiesGenerally open to the public but areas areoccasionally used for military training, includingthe firing of blank rounds, and visitors mustobserve any advice given by the rangesupervisors.

AccessFoot: The South West Coast Path runs just inlandof the dunes and links with the Tarka Trail (andBraunton and Barnstaple). Bus and train: Thereare bus links to Barnstaple and nearby Braunton.Barnstaple has a main line train station. Cycle:The Tarka Trail provides an excellent NationalCycle Network route from Barnstaple toBraunton along the Taw Torridge Estuary. Road:A number of small roads lead to the Burrowsfrom nearby Braunton. Car parking is availableoff Sandy Lane.

For further information on this site, please viewwww.devon.gov.uk. Geological details are atwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-BRB.pdf.

37. Westward Ho! Cliffsand Northam BurrowsNearest town: Bideford

OS grid reference: SS 420291 - 434296(Westward Ho! Cliffs)SS 445305 (Northam Burrows)

Status: AONB, SSSI

Management: Torridge District Council& private landowners

The Westward Ho! cliffs provide a good sectionof a raised beach platform well above the levelof the present beach. This platform and thedeposits upon it are very important because theyprovide evidence of glacier ice reaching theSouth West peninsula. For example, flint andgranite erratics (stones transported by an icesheet or glacier) are present, as is a deposit ofangular rock debris of the kind that flows downslopes during freeze/ thaw conditions in thevicinity of ice.

Remarkably, there is a submerged forest amidpeat deposits that can be seen around the lowwater mark at the eastern end of the site (SS432296) off Westward Ho! Slipway at thesouthern end of Westward Ho! beach. Thisprovides evidence of sea level rise during theHolocene Period and represents the swamping ofa coastal forest by the sea about 6000 years ago.

The cliffs of Westward Ho! directly adjoinNortham Burrows Country Park. A grassy coastal


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© Neville Stanikk/North Devon AONB

TORRIDGEDISTRICTCOUNCIL

© Craig Dixon

plain with salt marsh and sand dunes, this site isof considerable importance for both its wildlifeand geology. Of particular note is its famousshingle ridge/spit formed by longshore drift withpebbles coming from further around BidefordBay, which features some unusually largepebbles. These are made of a hard, fine-grainedsandstone that outcrops in the cliffs to the south.When exploring the coastline please take careand refer to the safety guidance at the start ofthis booklet.

FacilitiesVisitor centre and toilets are available atNortham Burrows.

AccessFoot: The South West Coast Path is readilyaccessible. Bus: There are bus links betweenBarnstaple, Bideford and Northam. Road: Fromthe A39 from Barnstaple take B3236 throughNortham and follow signs to Westward Ho!.Parking is available.

For opening times of the visitors centre pleasecall 01237 479708 or view www.torridge.gov.uk.Further detail on the geology is available atwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-NRB.pdf andwww.devon.gov.uk/geo-WHC.pdf

38. Codden Hill ViewpointNearest town: Barnstaple



Codden Hill provides an excellent vantage pointfrom which to see the surrounding features inthe landscape that are related to the underlyinggeology. Rising to over 190 metres, there areviews of both the granite massif of Dartmoor, tothe south, and the sandstone and shalelandscape of Exmoor to the north.

Perhaps the most impressive feature of thelandscape, however, is the series of ‘whale-backed’ hills (of which Codden Hill is a fineexample) which stretch west to east across thelandscape and are visible as far as Swimbridge.They are the dramatic result of Earth movementsof tremendous force resulting from the collisionof tectonic plates.

Below and about 1.5km to the north of CoddenHill can be seen Venn Quarry, where sandstonehas traditionally been worked to provide stonechippings with a high skid resistance for the topsurface of roads.

On the summit of Codden Hill, towards itseastern end, there is a nationally important‘bowl barrow’ with a surrounding ditch believedto date from the Bronze Age.

A small disused quarry [SS 569297] at the westernend of Codden Hill near Codden Hill Crossprovides a good, accessible exposure of theCodden Hill Chert Formation – the limestone andchert of the Lower Carboniferous period thatdominates the local geology.

FacilitiesThere is permissive access for horse riders, cyclists,and walkers. Grazing has been reintroduced sodogs need to be kept under tight control nearlivestock and gates need to be left as they arefound. Some facilities are available in the nearbyvillage of Bishop’s Tawton. There are two carparking areas; one is south of the site oppositeHorswell and the other is south east of the siteopposite Hayne.

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© Nick Steenman-Clark, Devon County Council

AccessFoot: There are a number of footpaths that giveaccess to the site and Codden Hill is just a shortwalk away from Bishops Tawton. Train: Regulartrain services are available to Barnstaple. Bus:There are regular bus services that run throughBishops Tawton from Barnstaple. Road: BishopsTawton is situated to the east of the A377, 1kilometre south of Barnstaple.

39. Hartland Point toHartland QuayNearest town: Hartland

OS grid reference: SS 230277 – SS 222247

Status: AONB, SSSI, SAC.

Management: Private landowners

Lying within North Devon Area of OutstandingNatural Beauty, this stretch of coastline is one ofthe most dramatic in the British Isles.Breathtaking coastal scenery and wonderful clifftop walks are all to be found.

Here in the cliffs and foreshore you can viewspectacular evidence of geological events whichtook place over 300 million years ago. The rocksare sandstones and mudstones that were laiddown around 320 million years ago in what wasthen a brackish sea. Of particular interest are thestriking patterns that can be seen in the faces ofthe cliffs. These tell a dramatic story of ancientforces that have helped to shape the Earth as wesee it today.

About 300 million years ago, during a period oftectonic plate collision, tremendous pressure wasexerted on the rocks of South West England. Sopowerful were these forces that the rocks wereactually compressed like a concertina, producinga range of spectacular folds and faults that arevisible today. These can be clearly seen in thecliffs to the north of Hartland Quay and a walkalong the cliff top towards Hartland Pointprovides good views (if the tide is out) of thecomplex patterns of sandstone ribs produced onthe foreshore by the folding.

Looking south from the Quay’s car park you cansee a hanging valley and abandoned alluvialtract of the Milford Water. The truncated valleybottom can be seen clearly.

FacilitiesThere is a small museum, car parking, shops anda hotel (with public bar and restaurant) atHartland Quay. There is a car park and arefreshment kiosk (open from Easter to the endof September) in Hartland Point. (Please reportany interesting geological finds to the kiosk.)

AccessFoot: The South West Coast Path runs along thesite giving easy access to the area. Main access tothe foreshore is at Hartland Quay, althoughthere is limited access at Spekes Mill, BlackpoolMill and Blegberry Beach. There are high cliffsand dangers of being cut off by the incomingtide. There is also little or no sand here sowalking is difficult. The walk from Hartland toHartland Quay is about 5km (some of the walk ison-road so care should be taken, especially onthe roads around Stoke which have nofootpaths). Please refer to the safety guidance atthe start of this booklet. Road: Take the A39Bude to Bideford Road and HartlandPoint/Hartland Quay can be accessed by a seriesof country roads. Bus: There is a regular servicebetween Bideford and Hartland but it wouldinclude a walk to Hartland Quay.


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© Pat Doody/Natural England

For further information on this site, please viewwww.northdevon-aonb.org.uk or call BidefordTourist Information Centre on 01237 421853.

40. Barley Grove andTorrington CommonNearest town: Great Torrington


Management: Torrington CommonConservators & Torridge DistrictCouncil.

The beauty of this site is its views. Standing atthe viewpoint on Great Torrington Common youcan look south over the valley of the RiverTorridge. Evidence of how the river has shapedthe physical structure of the valley can be clearlyseen.

You will see the river curve in from your left torun along the bottom of the Common. Look atthe inside of the curve and the slope rising upfrom the river. You will notice a series of terracesunderlain by gravels. These terraces represent thepast action of the river (both erosion anddeposition) as it has progressively cut down intothe landscape.

Turning your attention to the Common belowthe viewpoint, you will be able to observe fromsome of the footpaths that there are severalexposures of sandstones, siltstones and shalesthat are not normally easy to see. These wereformed in deep water during the UpperCarboniferous (the same time that coal wasbeing laid down in South Wales).

The rocks, comprising sandstones withinterbedded shale and siltstone, can best be seenalong ‘Sliding Rock Path’. The bedding dips southand some quartz veining occurs.

FacilitiesPublic facilities and refreshments are available inGreat Torrington.

AccessFoot: Public footpaths run across the Common.Cycle: National Cycle Route 3 (the Tarka Trail)runs nearby. Road: Coming from the north onthe M5 take J27 to the A361 to Barnstaple, thenthe A39 towards Bideford, then turn onto theB3232 to Great Torrington. Parking is available atthe Barley Grove car park. Bus: There are regularbuses from Bideford and Barnstaple to GreatTorrington.

A diagram illustrating the river terrace levels isavailable on Devon County Council’s website:www.devon.gov.uk/geo-BAG.pdf

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TORRIDGEDISTRICTCOUNCIL

© Torrington Common Conservators

There is a wide range of accommodationin Devon. Delightful hotels on the coastor in the country, cosy country pubs,idyllic guesthouses and farms, ideal forfamily holidays. You will discover somewonderful and luxurious self-cateringaccommodation as well as relaxingholiday parks, camping and caravanning… all ideal for that perfect break, allyear round.

Need more informationor want to make a booking?Call the Discover Devon Holiday Line*0870 608 5531 for information onavailable accommodation and late deals.Our friendly team can also make anaccommodation booking on your behalfand provide information on attractions,activities and events.

Lines are open 8am – 10pmMonday to Friday,and 10am – 8pm Saturday and Sunday.*Calls are charged at UK national rates.

If you prefer, you can email us on:[email protected] or visit thewebsite www.discoverdevon.com

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Great Places to Stay

Making your selectioncouldn't be easier. . .

Devon has the most fantasticnatural environment and we allwant it to stay that way.

If you are not bringing your horse, why not leavethe car behind and explore Devon by foot, bybike or even by boat?! Much of Devon’s coastand countryside is accessible by public transportand it can be great fun! Why not Discover DevonDifferently?

Some suggested itineraries are available fromwww.discoverdevon.com to help you make themost of your visit and help you to keep Devonspecial! For more information on planning yourjourney by bus, coach or train, call the Travelinenumber 0871 200 2233 (*calls from landline cost10p/min) or visit www.traveline.org.uk

Come and explore!More and more people are realising that takingthe bus or train is an easy, convenient, funalternative to worrying about driving alongnarrow, unfamiliar country roads and findingsomewhere suitable to leave the car.

Devon is blessed with a very mild climate. Springarrives early with daffodils and bluebells fillingthe undergrowth of the valleys and woodlandsand delicate yellow primroses, the Devon flower,carpeting the banks of the lanes.

The summer lingers for longer in Devon. It canbe well into September before any mistymornings herald the start of autumn, a seasonwhich also lends itself to discovering thecountryside on horseback. Rich autumnal coloursgive a golden glow to the landscape and theupper moorland areas become clothed inflowering heathers.

Winter can be an appealing season to exploreDevon’s countryside too. Riders and walkers canwrap up warm and take leisurely lunch stopsrelaxing in front of a warming log fire!

Visit the Discover Devon WebsiteYou will find more information about horseriding in Devon by visitingwww.discoverdevon.com where you will be ableto search a database that contains lots of ideasand information on places where you canexperience Devon from horse back. The websitealso contains information on wildlife, geology,Devon’s landscapes, walking, food and drink,festivals and many other attractions which Devonhas to offer.

Be a responsible visitor!Explore a greener Devon. . .

Be a Green Visitor1. Do not disturb any livestock, keep your

dog under close control and fasten allgates.

2. Take your litter home with you andrecycle it if possible.

3. Do not disturb wild animals, birds orflowers.

4. Whether you are walking, cycling ordriving, take special care on countryroads.

5. If possible, leave your car at home andtake the bus or train.

6. Buy locally produced goods, includingfood and souvenirs.

7. Support local shops, garages and otherlocal services.

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If you enjoy Devon'scoast and countryside . . .

For visitor information including accommodation availability visit

www.discoverdevon.comor call the Discover Devon Holiday Line

0870 608 5531

The details in this brochure are believed to be correct. Devon County Council will not acceptresponsibility for losses arising due to inaccuracies or omissions within this publication.Published by Devon County Council, County Hall, Exeter EX2 4QW. Tel: 01392 382000Produced by Devon Design and Print 01392 383276. JN123155 ISBN: 1-85522-968-4

This is printed on recycled paper

When you have finished with it pleaserecycle and help the environment.

Why not order one of our free booklets

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