The Decorative Arts Society 1850 to the Present

Front MatterSource: The Journal of the Decorative Arts Society 1850 - the Present, No. 33, DECORATIVEART AND THE WORLD OF FASHION (2009)Published by: The Decorative Arts Society 1850 to the PresentStable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/41809405 .

Accessed: 14/06/2014 18:47

Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at .http://www.jstor.org/page/info/about/policies/terms.jsp

.JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range ofcontent in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new formsof scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact support@jstor.org.

.

The Decorative Arts Society 1850 to the Present is collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extendaccess to The Journal of the Decorative Arts Society 1850 - the Present.

http://www.jstor.org

This content downloaded from 194.29.185.109 on Sat, 14 Jun 2014 18:47:53 PMAll use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions

/';-=09 )(8* =-0/']

This content downloaded from 194.29.185.109 on Sat, 14 Jun 2014 18:47:53 PMAll use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions

/';-=09 )(8* =-0/']

This content downloaded from 194.29.185.109 on Sat, 14 Jun 2014 18:47:53 PMAll use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions

/';-=09 )(8* =-0/']

This content downloaded from 194.29.185.109 on Sat, 14 Jun 2014 18:47:53 PMAll use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions

Patrons and Governors of the Society 2009

The Rt Hon. Lord Briggs of Lewes TITLE PAGE ILLUSTRATION: Orchid hair ornament, gold, Sir Geoffrey de Bellaigue KCVO FBA FSA enamel, diamonds, rubies, by Philippe Wolfers, 1902.

John Keatley © V&A Images/Victoria & Albert Museum, London.

Andrew Mcintosh Patrick , „ , ^ , REVIEW ILLUSTRATION: Members , of „ the , Cambridge ^ ,

Peter Rose . . Photographic

. Society

. showcasing the latest sartorial

style, photographed by Jay for The Ambassador, 1952. Margaret Baird

© Elsbeth Juda. Image courtesy L Equipment des Arts, Geraldine Beare (Hon. Archivist) London. Anne Ceresole (Chairman) Max Donnelly (Hon. Secretary) The Society aims to encourage the study and appreciation Mark Eastment (Newsletter and Journal Co-ordinator) of all aspects of the Decorative Arts in Britain, Europe Alison Hart (Ex-Officio Membership Secretary) and America from 1850 to the present. The term

Michael Jeffery 'Decorative Art' is used in its broadest sense. The field Perilla Kinchin (Ex-Officio Newsletter Editor) covered ranges from architecture, interior and industrial

John Masters (Hon. Treasurer) design and the graphic arts. Piers Oakley (Ex-Officio Hon. Solicitor) Each year the Society organizes day excursions, study

Judy Rudoe weekends in Britain and abroad, day seminars and

Sonia Scoliari lectures. Newsletters are issued twice during the year Annamarie Stapleton giving details of forthcoming events and general Louise Turner (Ex-Officio Accountant) information - relevant exhibitions and auctions, new

Alex Werner publications, etc. The Society also publishes an annual Muriel Wilson Journal containing specialized articles, which is issued Robert Wilson (Deputy Chairman) to all members.

Further details about the Society may be obtained DESIGNED BY Isobel Gillan isobel@isobelgillan.co.uk from Alison Hart, DAS Administrator, The Decorative EDITED BY Annamarie Stapleton „ . , ^ Arts Society, PO Box 136, Woodbridge

„ . , Suffolk, ^ IP 12

FRONT COVER ILLUSTRATION: Barbara Goalen wearing 1TG or see our website, www.decorativeartssociety.org.uk Norman Hartneil, ' seated on an Ernest Race Antelope ť a o • ioca l ' ť Published by the Decorative Arts a Society o • ioca 1850 to the l Chair at the Festival of Britain, 1951. Photographed by Present Jay for The Ambassador. © Elsbeth Juda. Image courtesy of L'Equipment des Arts (www.lequipement.com and The publication costs of this Journal have been

www.elsbethjuda.com). supported by a grant from the Albert Dawson Trust.

BACK COVER ILLUSTRATION: An early interior design The views expressed in this Journal are those of the

by Christopher Vane Percy featuring trademark CVP individual authors.

Design 0 elements: sumptuous r fabric, mixed textures .. rn .. li i a • i 0 r Copyright .. of rn all articles .. rests with li the authors. i Articles a • i

and a blend of r periods. Courtesy j of Christopher r . , , . , r j r may not ̂ . reproduced , , without . , written permission

Vane Percy J archive. , . , , L L a o J obtained , . , through , L the L DAS. a o

ISSN 0260 9568

Printed in United Kingdom

This content downloaded from 194.29.185.109 on Sat, 14 Jun 2014 18:47:53 PMAll use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions

CONTENTS

REVIEW OF THE YEAR 2008-2009 5

INTRODUCTION 6

HORROCKSES FASHIONS and cotton ready-to-wear in the 1940s and 1950s 8 Christine Boydell

BLURRING THE BOUNDARIES: print, personality and the interiors of 26 Zandra Rhodes and CVP

Dennis Nothdruft

DESIGNING LUCILE LTD: couture and the modern interior 1900- 1920s 38 Samantha Erin Safer

REVITALISING JEWELLERY DESIGN: the International Exhibition of 54 Modern Jewellery 1890-1961

Muriel Wilson

LIBERTY & THE BUSINESS OF EMBROIDERY 74 Anna Buruma

THE AMBASSADOR: the contribution of one trade journal to the 90 British fashion and textile industry

Annamarie Stapleton

Contributors to the 2009 Edition 106 List of D AS Members 107 DAS Journal Cumulative Index 110

This content downloaded from 194.29.185.109 on Sat, 14 Jun 2014 18:47:53 PMAll use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions

THE DECORATIVE ARTS SOCIETY JOURNAL 2009

List of DAS Members Ralph Bowmaker Mr K H J Coutts Mrs Angela Filmer as of 31 December 2009 Eddie Bowry Coventry University Gill Fitzpatrick

Mr Ian Bradley Mr Brian Coyle FRICS Marta Flannelly Lady Abdy Pauline Bramley Stella Cragie Dr Carol A Flores Prof. Abecasis-Phillips James & Susan Brazier Mrs M Crawley Penelope Floyd Agency for the Legal Deposit The Lord & Lady Briggs Moira Creak Sara & Steven Forster

Lib The British Library Mr & Mrs David & Abby Gordon Foster Alan Saville Ms Doon Brooks Cronin Miss Sheila Fozard Mark Aldbrook Ms Sally Brooks Elizabeth Cumming Mr R K Francis Lady Alexander Mr K J Brown Mr Michael Dales Mr & Mrs Shelagh & Simon & the Honourable Lesley Brown Dallas Museum of Art Geoffrey Frankham

Gail Allbutt Cheltenham Art Gallery & Mrs Morna Daniels Mr & Mrs Frankl-Bertram Mrs B Alter Museum Dr E S Darby Ms Sara Franses AMS/Firenze Mrs Brundrett Dartmouth College Ms Margaretta S Frederick Barbara Anderson Richard J B Bryers Joan Darwent John Freeman Ms Christina M Anderson Buckinghamshire Chilterns Ms Joanne Davenport Robert Freidus Philip & Annetta Anderson Ms Marilyn Buekett Alison Davey Mr Joseph Friedman Meg Andrews F J Bundy Geoffrey Davies Daryl Fromm Elizabeth Argent Keith & Carol Burbidge Mike Davies Mr & Mrs Allan H Fuller Mrs G W Argyle Mrs Therese Burnett Ms Sheila D Davies Mr Graham S Gadd Art Bibliographies Audrey Burrell Ms L Daybelge Mr Barry Garfield Art Institute of Chicago Michael Burrell Sir Geoffrey De Bellaigue Geffrye Museum Ruth Artmonsky Mary Butler De Montfort University Mr G E F Georgiou Mr Victor Arwas Donald Macgregor Campbell Mr Richard Dennis Charlotte Gere Norman Ashton Alastair & Debra Carew-Cox Mrs Avril Denton The Getty Research Institute Auerbach Art Library Mr B Cargin Mr J Desmond Mrs M Ghiglieri Ms Helen R Auty Jos Carr Craig & Pauline Dewberry Elizabeth & Richard Gill Jeremy Aynsley Annette Carruthers Judith Dilli way Sabre Gilmartin Dr Jane Bailey Elaine Cars well Mr D P Dodd Richard Ginman Dr Brian & Mrs Margaret B J Carter Mr I Doherty Mr J Glennie

Baird Carol Cashmore Mr C L Don Mr Michael Godbee Mrs Bernadette Barber Cecil Higgins Art Gallery Patricia Douglas MBE FRSA Pat Goodall Bard Graduate Centre Mrs Mirabel Cecil Nicky Doyle Debbie Gooday Michael Barker Centre Canadien Robert Drake Sharon Goodenough John Bartlett D'Architecture Dr Elizabeth Driver Mr John Goodricke Dr Anna E Basham Anne & Peter Ceresole John Drummond, FCSD, Dr Nicola Gordon Bowe Mrs Maureen Batkin Morwenna Chaffe HON DES RCA C N Gorman Mrs Geraldine Beare Paul Chaffe Mr John Duckworth Mr Manfred S Gorvy Mr & Mrs J P Beasley Christie's Sue Dunbar Silk Veronica Franklin Gould Robin de Beaumont Mr Roger Clare Mr P J Dunford Ms Caroline Grace Ms Stella Beddoe Barry Clark Dr Ian Dungavell Sir James Graham John Evan Bedford Dr Brian Clarke Ms Frances Dunkels GRASSI Museum fuer Daisy Bedford Christopher Claxton Stevens Mark Eastment Angewandte Kunst Mr S Benhalim Mrs Diane Clements Raquel Ebbutt Mrs Angela Greensmyth- Mary Bentley Cleveland Museum of Art Ms Marian Edsor Jones Caroline & Tony Benyon Library Malcolm Edwards Mary Greensted Dr C Berthoud Margot Coatts Edwina Ehrman U Greenwood Bibliothèque Nationale de Gary Codd Ms E C Elliott A I Grieve

France Miss Diane Coleman Elaine & John Ellis Antony Griffiths Dr Neil Bingham Mr Brian Collings Mrs Moira Eminson Mr Stewart Grimshaw David & Brigitte Birch Columbia Museum of Art English Heritage Library Mr & Mrs A H Grogan Birmingham Museum of Art Mr William Connelly Erasmus Antiqueriaat en Penelope Gurland Mr Steven Bishop Dr Rachel Conroy Boekhandel Mrs Angela F Hale Mrs E A Black Dr Denvil Coombe Andrew Everett Diana Hale Mark Blower Mr Roger Cooper John Everett Dr Widar Halén Juliette Bogaers Cooper-Hewitt Museum Mr Michael E Everson Margaret Hall Ms Elisabeth Bogdan Alison Copeland Mr Julian H Fall Dorothy E Hall Mrs Sandra Bonsor Dr & Mrs Richard Coppin Mr John Featherstone Les Hall Boston Public Library Corning Museum of Glass Harvey Philippa Hamlyn Sue Boura Julia Corrice Alistair Ferguson Liz Hancock Mrs Mary Bowden Courtauld Institute of Art Sally Field C M & C J Hancock

107

This content downloaded from 194.29.185.109 on Sat, 14 Jun 2014 18:47:53 PMAll use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions

THE DECORATIVE ARTS SOCIETY JOURNAL 2009

Joan Maria Hansen Mr Richard Jordon Colin & Anne Martin Nelson Atkins Museum of Mr Ian Harris Paul Keane Mrs Gillian Mason Art Mr Jonathan Harris J R M Keatley John & Chrissie Masters Mr & Mrs G Newell Mr Martin G Harrison Mr John Kendall Mrs Susan Mathews D & S Newell-Smith Tom Hartneil Herbert J Kennard John McDonald Alastair Nicolson Ira Hartogsohn Miss Alison Kenney Prof D M McDowell Nottingham Trent Mrs Jean Harvey David Travers de Kervern Greg McGowan University Haslam & Whiteway Ltd Ms Perilla Kinchin Dr Sonia McKay Mr Tony Oakley Malcolm Haslam Mrs R King Dr Carole McKeown M J O'Dell Kathy Haslam Mr G Kingham Dr David C Low Mr & Mrs S J O'Donnell Mr Peter Haworth Pamela D Kingsbury Dr Jane McKeown Mr Michael O'Dowd Mrs Mary Hay nes Mr Garrison Grey Kingsley The Honourable Mrs Fiona Mr Sean O'Lubaigh Sophie Heath Mr J A H Kingswell C McNaught Dr Claire O'Mahony Gilly Hebden Mr N Kirk Efric A McNeil Jennifer Opie Nichola Hebditch London Metropolitan Duncan McNeill Mr C J Overton Noel M Hensley University Joachim & Betty Mendes Oxford & Cherwell Valley Mrs Joan Henson Ms Julia Knight Mr David Metcalfe College Mr David Herbert Mr Graham Knowles Metropolitan Museum of Art Alison Packer Irene Herman Laura Knowles-Cutler Peter Miall Mrs Helen Parker Mr & Mrs Michael Heseltine Deborah Kolombos Miss Conny Michael Dr Richard A Parkin Mr C F High Miriam Kramer Laura Microulis Linda Parry Christopher Hill Mr Lawrence Kreisman Middlesex University Mr Stuart Parsons David A. Hill Carien Kremer Philip & Betty Miles Mr Andrew Mcintosh Peter Hirschmann Mr Peter Lamb Graham Miller Patrick Mr Garry Holloway Ms Jo Lamb The Millinery Works Lynn Pearson Mr & Mrs Hopkinson Deborah Lambert Christine Milne Mr Martin H Pearsons Dr Libby Horner Lesley Lambert The Mitchell Library Mr Tony Peart Robert Hornung Charles R Lancaster Mr Neil Moat & Mrs Julia S Mrs Suzanne Perkins Mr Joseph Hucknall Mr Brian Lang A B Moat Phila Museum of Art Sue Hudson Dr Nigel Langdon Mr Michael Mohammed Ms Yvonne C Pines Dr Lynn Hülse Mr David Langer F Alan Moody Mrs E M Pirie Barbara M Hume Helen Langley Mrs Karen Moon Mrs J Plante Cleall Patricia Huntley Mr & Mrs Laverack Christine Moore Prof. R J Plummer Andrea & David Hussey George & Anne Law Jeremy Morgan Mr & Mrs Robert Prescott- Mr & Mrs Dave & Sue Mrs Sonja Leadley Mr C Morley Walker

Hutchins Keith Edward Leggatt Mrs Jacqueline Morley Mrs Joy Preston Neil Hyman Gordon & Anne Lemon Barbara Morris Mrs Gill Pritchard Mr Mervyn Hynes Mr Martin Levy Mr J D Morris Mr G D Proctor Mrs Eleanor Inch Miss Joanne Lewis Andrew Morrish Angela Prysor-Jones Institut National d'Histoire Dr Marion & Mr Barrie Liss Mrs Rachel Moss Mr A Pugh Thomas

de l'Art OBE Celia Moxom Miss Katherine Purcell John Irving Mrs Caroline Littlewood Charles Moxom Queen's University Mr Jeffrey Jackson Liverpool John Moores Mr Donald MuUins Morfydd Ransom-Hall Karen Jakobsen University Victoria Murray Heidi Rasmussen Mrs V James Kate Livingston Museum of Domestic Design Dr Willie Reardon Mr Michael Jeffery Anne-Marie Logan & Architecture Anne Reid Jen Library London College of Printing Museum of Fine Arts, Boston Anthony Relph S I Jenkins The London Library Museum of London Paul & Karen Rennie Dr Ian Jenkins Jocelyn Lukins Dr Anne E Myers Janine Rensch Neil Jennings Fiona MacCarthy National Museums & Andrew Renton John Jesse The Lord MacFarlane of Galleries of Wales Mr & Mrs L G Reynolds Mrs Eleanor John Bearsden KT National Gallery of Ms Susan Rhodes Mr Nick Johns Mr John Mackie Australia Catherine Richards Frank Johnson Fiona MacSporran National Gallery of Canada Patricia Richards Mike Johnson Mr Theo Mance The National Museum of Mr Hugh Richards James Joll Manchester Art Gallery Art, Architecture & Design Ms Jane Riches Mrs Sue Jones Manchester Metropolitan National Museum, Oslo Ms Noel Riley Mrs Y J Jones University National Museum Liverpool, Richard Riley Esq Claire Jones Carol Manheim Decorative Arts Dept Allan & Irene Roberts Jenny Jones Mr Robert A Mapstone National Museums of Miss C H Roberts Mr Christopher Jordan Valerie Mars Scotland Mr Irfon Roberts

108

This content downloaded from 194.29.185.109 on Sat, 14 Jun 2014 18:47:53 PMAll use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions

THE DECORATIVE ARTS SOCIETY JOURNAL 2009

Ms Monica Roberts Mrs Gillian Smith Mrs Alix Tystad Mrs Joan G Ward Phillip Roberts The Hon. & Mrs Philip University College of the Elizabeth Warren Mr Herbert Robinson Smith Creative Arts Wartski Peter & Annette Robinson Mrs Antoinette Snaith University of Brighton P J Wasylik Christopher Stolbert Miss Sonia Solicari University of Cambridge Prof. Toshio Watanabe

Robinson Sotheby's Institute of Art University of Glasgow Mark Watson John Roger Penny Souster University of Huddersfield CGWatterson Mr L Rogers Ms Joan South University of Minnesota Mrs Annabel Watts Peter D Rose Stuart & Sue Stanley University of St Andrews, Brian & Gail Webb Mr Alan & Mrs Gerda Ross Annamarie Stapleton Library Susan Weber Mrs Joy N Ross Mrs Siobhan M Steel University of Teesside Mr & Mrs M J Webster Mr Roger Rousell J M Stevens University of Texas Austin Mr George Weeks Mr Norman Routledge Mr M J Stevens University of the Arts Westminster Reference Royal Institute of British Mr Geoff Stocker London Library

Architects Mr Ken Stradling University of Ulster at Ms Caroline Whitehead Royal Ontario Museum Ingemar Svahn Belfast Library Mr R J S Wilcock Ben & Frances Ruck Keene S wets Information Services University of Westminster Mr Stephen Wilcock Judy Rudoe Ltd University of Mr N I Wilkinson Mrs Simone Rutherford Syracuse University Library Wolverhampton William Morris Gallery Sam Mullins Mrs Nancy Tanner Marina Vaizey Mr Matthew Williams A G C Sanders Tate Britain Michael Thomas Vaughan Mr Peter Williams Prof. Dkfm. Rudolf Schmutz Dr Patricia Tate Mr Christopher Vickers Muriel Wilson MsJillSeddon Mrs Joy Taylor Victoria & Albert Museum Robert Wilson Michael Seeney Mrs R Victoria Taylor Mr Geoffrey A & Mrs Janet Ms Susan Wilson Mary Shand Ms Jean L Taylor Vine Mrs Melanie Winstanley Ms Rosalind J Shearman Mr Alan Teasdale Mrs Saria Viney Winterthur Museum Library Mr Robert Shephard J B G M Teunissen Mrs Jill Virgin Ms Ness Wood Diane Sheridan Jane Theophilus Virginia Museum of Fine Elizabeth Woods Pippa Shirley Mrs Jill Thompson-Lewis Arts Suzette Worden Dr Nicholas Shrimpton Mr Jeremy & Mrs Estela H P Viti Jennie Wotherspoon Kerry Shrives Thorp Waddesdon Manor J W Wright Dr Roger Shuff Shirley Thubron Albert E Wade David Wurtzel Mr Paul A Shutler Mr & Mrs Roy & Lois Mrs Jane Wainwright Mr Robin Wyatt Mrs Wendie Simmons Thwaites Frances Walder Mrs Rosette Yanni Dr Richard Sindall Rebecca Tinsley Prof, Mrs & Dr David York University Libraries Hanna Singer Stella Tonks Walker Mr John Yorke Mrs Diane C Sinnott Pippa Townsend Mr S Walker Mr & Mrs Peyton Skipwith Andrew & Elizabeth Tucker Gary Waller Please notify any errors or Mr Rupert J F Slingsby Colin & Louise Turner John Wallis omissions to Alison Hart, Kim Sloan Tim Turner Teri & Patrick Walsh DAS Administrator

109

This content downloaded from 194.29.185.109 on Sat, 14 Jun 2014 18:47:53 PMAll use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions