crochet vagina
DESCRIPTION
Patrones de crochet y agujas para tejer una vagina de estambre.TRANSCRIPT
After having perused the internet, I see that no one has bothered to post a pattern for crochetting your own girly bits. I, dear readers, having done it myself once, now share with you how to do it yourselves.
There are a few things it’s helpful to keep in mind. 1. When crocheting in the round, crocheting the same number of stitches round after round will make a tube. 2. In order to make a flat circle, you need to increase. 3. When crocheting a tube, the part of the stitch facing you becomes the interior of the tube.
To do this, you’ll need a skein of yarn (or two, if you want the exterior to look different than the interior), a hook (I used a K), some scissors, the ability to single crochet, increase, decrease, and… and I think that’s it.
Okay, let’s get started. We’ll begin with the vagina and work our way outwards.
Chain three and make a loop (kind of like when you’re starting a granny square). Then, remember that we’re only doing single crochet stitches, and do eight stitches for your first row and join the loop with a slip stitch.
Second row, also eight stitches, and you’ll see that it already wants to pull into a tube. That’s what we want. Keep going!You’ll have to decide for yourself how long you want your vagina to be. I made this one eight rows, just for the sake
of time.
Row 9 (or whatever): Put two stitches in each stitch so that you have 16 when you are done. See how it flairs out? Okay, now you have to start thinking about how a cooter is shaped, kind of like a tear drop. We need to start working on that shape.
Row 10: First stitch, crochet twice into it. Crochet once into the next four stitches. Crochet twice into the next stitch. Crochet once into the next five stitches. Crochet five times into the next stitch (like you’re making an afghan corner). Then crochet once into the last five stitches. Join with a slip stitch.
Row 11: Crochet twice into the first stitch. Crochet once in the next six stitches.
Crochet twice in the next stitch. Crochet once in the next seven stitches. Crochet five times in the next stitch. Crochet once into the next seven stitches to bring you back to the beginning. Join.Row 12: Now, we don’t want this getting too triangle-y, so in this round, single stitch in the next four stitches and then put three crochets in the next stitch. Then singles stitches in the next fourteen stitches. Stitch five in the next stitch. Ten lone crochets in the next ten stitches to bring us back around to the start. Join with a slip stitch.
Row 13: This is the trickiest part of the whole thing. We’re going to make the inner labia, so, instead of crocheting in the round like we’ve been doing, we’re going to turn around and go back in the stitches we just
made, BUT, because we’re going to come back this way again, we only want to go in the front part of the loop (which, when we turn around, will be the back part of the loop). Hopefully, the picture makes sense of what I’m telling you to do.
You’re going to make 26 stitches, and end up with something that should bend towards you.
Row 14: Come back 26 stitches. You’re done with the inner labia. Make your next stitch back down on the top of row twelve. Then come around in single stitches to the bottom of the other side of the labia. When you get to the stitch before your last stitch before your inner labia, take a look up and see the edge of that stitch up there. You’re going to probably want to grab it and work it into this stitch.Okay, here’s another tricky part. Remember how we left half the loop hanging back in the last row? We’re going to crochet into those. So, just fold over your inner labia and catch the rest of that old stitch. We’re going to just single crochet into those and come back around to the other
end of the labia, where row 12 started, once upon a time. And, new row!
Row 15: One crochet in each stitch.
Row 16: Same thing.
Row 17: Same thing.
TIME OUT: It’s time to make the clit. (And also time to change colors, which is fortunate, because we’re going to have to cut the pink yarn). Just chain three just like you started, hook them together and tie off. At the top of the inner labia, underneath, you’re going to see a big hole. I
feed one string through the hole on one side of that and one string through the hole on the other side and tie them in the back. Use your hook to help.
Row 18: Go around as normal with your new color.
Row 19: Turn around and go the other way (remember, the tube comes towards you and we now want to make the tube cover the back of everything we did).
Row 20: Go around again. You can see the stitches already kind of roll towards you.
Row 21. Stitch five, skip one, repeat.
Row 22: Stitch four, skip one, repeat.
By now, it should be rolling over like it should. You’ll do another ten or fifteen rows without any decrease, until the vagina is covered, then do a row of stitch three, skip one, a row of stitch two, skip one, and then some rows of stitch one, skip one until the whole thing is covered and you’re
done, tada.
This one seems a little deeper than the one I made Rachel and I think you could adjust subsequent cooters by having a few more increases in the area below the vaginal opening so that it was wider and therefore shallower. But once you get the idea, I think you can see there’s a ton of variations you could do.
Knitted VulvaIt is nearly impossible to find a good pattern for a knit yoni and I see lots of people in different craft communities asking for one. I was curious myself so I decided to just wing it without a pattern and write my own and now I have succeeded. I even used a glow in the dark yarn for the clitoris so she's always easy to find!
PATTERN!
Since each vagina is unique and unlike any other, this is less of a pattern and more a guideline to get you started! It is better if yours looks different than mine!
Materials:
- Varying weights and colors of yarn- Varying sized needles to accompany the varying weights of yarn
Yarns and needles I used:Labia Majora - Lion Brand Chenille Thick & Quick (Bulky Weight Yarn) on US 10.5 straightsLabia Minora - Lion Brand Baby Soft (DK weight, but held 2 strands together) on US 8 straightsClitoris – Bernat Glow in the Dark (Worsted Weight) on US 4 dpns
Gauge:
Gauge is unimportant as this is totally up to you how big or small you want it to be!
Directions:
Labia Majora and Labia Minora (make 2 using 2 different yarns)
CO 1 st Start IncreasesRow 1: Kfb into stRow 2 (and all even rows): KRow 3: k1, m1, k1Row 5: k1, m1, k1, m1, k1Row 7: k1, m1, k3, m1, k1Row 9: k1, m1, k5, m1, k1
Continue this pattern of increasing every second and every second to last st until you get your desired width.
The next few rows: knit all until you get the desired length (allotting extra length for the decreases)
Start Decreases
Row 1: k1, k2tog, k to last three sts , ssk, k1Row 2 and all even rows: kRepeat this pattern until you have one st left on the needle, cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing
The Clitoris
(please note that this isn't the most ideal pattern for the clit, and even I have a hard time understanding it, haha, so be creative here, you could make a bobble or make a pom pom instead if this way doesn't work for you)
Using DPNS: C03, distributing stitches evenly between 3 needlesRow 1: kfb of each stRow 2: k1, kfb (repeat on each needle)Row 3: k1, kfb, k1 (repeat on each needle)*feel free to continue this pattern if you want your clitoris any bigger!Row 4: k1, k2tog, k1 (repeat on each needle)Row 6: k1, k2tog (repeat on each needle)Row 7: k2tog leaving 1 st on each needleDraw remaining stitches together with the excess yarn and pull tight. Tie off.
Assembly
Using tail of yarn, sew Clitoris onto Labia MinoraUsing tail of yarn, sew Labia Minora onto Labia MajoraFold in half, and using tail of yarn, sew along the bottom of the Labia Majora, about an inch from the folded base.Weave in ends and enjoy a Pocket Vulva all your own!
