DERMATOLOGIC ASPECTS OF COSMETICS 0733-8635/00 $15.00 + .OO

COSMETICS AND SKIN CARE PRODUCTS

A Historical Perspective

Zoe Diana Draelos, MD

Cosmetics and skin care products have played many varied and important roles in human history. Colored cosmetics have been used to prepare for entry into battle, to heighten the excitement surrounding court- ship, and to adorn the dead before burial. Skin care products have influenced every- thing from religious practices to the health of the general population. A brief look at the history of these products is important in un- derstanding their present use and the many advancements that have been made in formu- lation. This article discusses a few cosmetics and skin care products that have had the most interesting histories.

SOAP AND CLEANSING

The idea of soap and cleansing of the body was developed more than 4000 years ago when the Hittites of Asia Minor cleaned their hands with the ash of the soapwort plant suspended in water. The first cleanser was created by the Sumerians of Ur, who pro- duced alkali solutions for washing. These

preparations, however, were not chemically similar to soap as it is known today.

The first modern soap preparation was de- veloped in about 600 B.C. by the Phoenicians, who first saponified goat fat, water, and po- tassium carbonate-rich ash into a solid, waxy product. The idea of using soap to cleanse the body was not always considered beneficial. During the Middle Ages, soap was outlawed by the Christian Church, which believed that exposing the flesh, even to bathe, was evil. Later, when the idea of bacteria-induced in- fection surfaced, the sale of soap soared. Soap has now become part of the medically ac- cepted daily hygiene ritual.

The first widely marketed soap was devel- oped by Procter in 1878, who decided that his father’s soap and candle factory should produce a delicately scented, creamy white soap to compete with .imported European products. He accomplished this feat with the help of his cousin, Gamble, a chemist, who made a richly lathering product called white soap. By accident, they discovered that whip- ping air into the soap solution before molding resulted in a floating soap that could not be lost in the rivers where people commonly

From the Department of Dermatology, Wake Forest University School of Medicine, Winston-Salem; and the Dermatol- ogy Consulting Services, High Point, North Carolina

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VOLUME 18 * NUMBER 4 OCTOBER 2000 557

558 DRAELOS

bathed.3 This accident resulted in Ivory soap, still manufactured today.

COLORED FACIAL COSMETICS

The earliest cosmetic designed for facial adornment was the beauty patch. Facial patches became popular in Europe during the 1600s to cover permanent facial scars on smallpox epidemic survivors. These patches were black silk or velvet pieces shaped like stars, moons, and hearts that were placed carefully on the face. Patches were carried in shallow metal boxes with a mirror in the cover to keep replacements handy should a patch fall off in public. These boxes repre- sented the forerunner of the modern-day compact.

The wearing of patches became an im- portant part of unspoken communication be- tween men and women. For example, a patch near a woman’s mouth signaled flirta- tiousness, a patch on a woman’s right cheek indicated she was married, whereas a patch at the corner of a woman’s eye announced smoldering passion. Patch boxes disappeared with the development of the smallpox vac- cine, yet the concept of carrying a case to touch up one’s appearance is known to every young woman in the United state^.^

Facial foundation, as it is known today, was developed for the theater. The original cos- metic, used to whiten the face, arms, and neck, was known as wet white or French white and consisted of face powder incorporated into a liquid ~ehic le .~ This preparation was considered to be an improvement over simply powdering the skin because the new formula- tion adhered better and longer. Later, grease paints were developed consisting of pigments and fillers suspended in oily vehicles. These products were used mainly in the theater be- cause they were difficult to apply and wear.

The first major breakthrough in facial foun- dations for the average woman came when Max Factor developed cake makeup, which he patented in 1936.6 This product provided excellent coverage, a velvety look, and facial color. Since that time, the variety and popu- larity of facial foundations have expanded tremendously. Facial foundations now are

used to provide sun protection, moisturiza- tion, and oil control. They have left the realm of pure cosmetics and entered the realm of cosmeceuticals.

EYE COSMETICS

The use of eye cosmetics is recorded in 4000 B.C. Green powder made from malachite was applied heavily to the upper and lower eye- lids accompanied by dark kohl eyeliner paste composed of powdered antimony, burnt al- monds, black copper oxide, and brown clay ocher. The eyeliner paste was stored in a pot and moistened with saliva. Eyelid glitter com- posed of ground bettle shells was also popu- lar.3 These eye cosmetics were believed to offer some medicinal benefits as well in pre- venting parasitic and bacterial infection of the eyes, which was common at the time. The modern colored eyelid cosmetics used today were introduced between 1959 and 1962, making them a relatively new in~ent ion.~

Mascara, an eyelash cosmetic, also was worn by women of many ancient civiliza- tions. Ancient mascara was composed of kohl, primarily consisting of antimony trisul- fide. The refinements of modern mascara led to the development of a cake composed of sodium stearate soaps and lampblack. The product was mixed with water and stroked from the cake with a brush and applied to the eyelashes. This formulation produced eye irritation because of the sodium stearate. Modern formulations use triethanolamine stearate, which is less apt to cause eye irrita- t i ~ n . ~ The most modern invention pertaining to mascara use is development of the auto- matic dispensing tube, which made mascara use convenient for most women in the United States.

LIP COSMETICS

Lip color has been used since the time of the Sumerians in 7000 B.C. The practice has been handed down through many genera- tions from the Egyptians to the Syrians to the Babylonians to the Persians to the Greeks to the Romans to present-day civilizations. Plant

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materials, such as hybrid saffron or brazil- wood, were used to obtain a reddish color. The earliest true lipsticks consisted of bees- wax, tallow, and pigment.2

Present-day lipstick was introduced around 1920 when the push-up holder, still used to- day, was invented. Other lipstick formula- tions, including liquids, pencils, and auto- matic applicators, have been introduced, but lipstick in the push-up holder remains the best-selling product.'

NAIL COSMETICS

Nail enamel or polish is useful for nail adornment, covering nail discolorations, and providing strength to weak nails. Nail polish was introduced in the 1920s when lacquer technology was developed. During World War I, excellent sources of nitrocellulose were developed as a military explosive. The nitro- cellulose was created by reacting cellulose fi- ber, from cotton linters or wood pulp, with nitric acid. It was discovered that boiled nitro- cellulose could be dissolved in organic sol- vents. After evaporation of the solvents, a hard, glossy film of nitrocellulose was pro- duced, known as a lacquer. Extensive research on nitrocellulose lacquer was undertaken by the automobile industry, which found the product preferable to slow-drying, oil-based paints previously used to paint cars. This technology was adapted directly to the cos- metics industry?

Before 1920, nails were manicured, then pol- ished with abrasive powder to achieve a shine. Color was then added through the use of stains. The first lacquer marketed was clear and labeled a nail polish because it imparted a high shine to the nail plate. In 1930, Revson developed the idea of adding pigments to the clear lacquer to form an opaque, colored nail

polish. Based on the success of this poor- quality nail polish, Revson formed Revlon in 1932. He hired a formulation expert to de- velop a better product, which became known as nail enamel. Originally, Revson's nail enamel was available only in salons. Tremen- dous consumer demand created a new indus- try with tremendous sales that have contin- ued 60 years later.

SUMMARY

The history of cosmetics and skin care products parallels many important techno- logic developments in chemistry, materials, and packaging innovations. Much is revealed about ancient civilizations by the cosmetics that are uncovered in archeologic excavations. Much can also be said about modern-day health and adornment practices based on products in the current marketplace.

References

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Cunningham J: Color cosmetics. In Williams DF, Schmitt WH (eds): Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry. London, Blackie Academic & Professional, 1992, pp 143-149 deNavarre MG: Lipstick. In deNavarre MG (ed): The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, ed 2. Wheaton, IL, Allured Publishing, 1988, pp 767-769 Panati C: Extraordinary Origins of Everyday Things. New York Perennial Library, Harper & Row, 1987 Rutkin P: Eye make-up. In deNavarre MG (ed): The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, ed 2. Wheaton, IL, Allured Publishing, 1988, pp 712-717 Schlossman ML, Feldman AJ: Fluid foundations and blush make-up. In deNavarre MG (ed): The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, ed 2. Wheaton, IL, Allured Publishing, 1988, pp 741-765 Wells FV, Lubowe I 1 Cosmetics and the Skin. New York, Reinhold Publishing, 1964 Wells FV, Lubowe II: Rouge and eye make-up. In Cosmetics and the Skin. New York, Reinhold Publish-

Wimmer EP, Scholssman ML: The history of nail pol- ish. Cosmet Toilet 107:115-120, 1992

ing, 1964, pp 173-174

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