RideIt may be the starting venue for the 100th edition of the Tour de France, but Corsica has much more to offer the adventurous cyclist than simply the chance to follow in Froome and Contador’s wheel tracks Words Mark Bailey Photography Pete WeBB

Centuryof the

cyclist 59

Corsica

n the stone wall of the 13th century citadel in Calvi, northwest Corsica, which gazes

out across the blue-green expanse of the Mediterranean Sea, there is a solitary poster of a cyclist. It’s a strange sight among the ancient alleyways, glistening marina and white sand beaches

of this picturesque port town, where holidaymakers and locals

seem blissfully unaware of any concept of exertion, gradients, gears

or adventure. But the cyclist is wearing a familiar patchwork of yellow, green and polka

dot clothing and the image is framed with the French, Corsican and English inscriptions: ‘A Notre Tour/Tocca a Noi/The Tour Is Ours’.

It’s more than a century since Henri Desgrange, editor of L’Auto newspaper and organiser of the inaugural Tour de France of 1903, promised to ‘fling across France today those reckless and uncouth sowers of energy who are the great professional riders of the world’, yet due to logistics, economics and politics, the island of Corsica has remained the only one of the 27

Above: Rust-red cliffs line the spectacular coastal roads

Right: Cycling and motorcycle clubs vie for sticker space on the sign at the top of Col de Vergio

regions of France not to play host to the glory and scandal of the La Grande Boucle. This poster proudly declares that the wait is over.

As part of the patriotic celebrations marking the centenary edition of the Tour this summer, Corsica was chosen to host the opening three stages of the Grand Depart between 29th June and 1st July. The 2013 Tour is the first since 1988 to be completed entirely on French soil and will introduce the wildly diverse Corsican landscape to fans of the Tour for the first time in history.

In comparison to the more popular island cycling retreats, Corsica – which rises out of the Mediterranean 170km southeast of mainland France and 11km north of Sardinia – is quite expansive. It’s twice the size of Mallorca and four times the size of Tenerife, which helps to explain

the island’s bewildering range of scenery. Dubbed l’Île de Beauté (the Isle of Beauty) for its natural charms, Corsica is best known for its wine, cheese and charcuterie, and for being the birthplace of the French emperor Napoleon Bonaparte. But it is also a little-known cycling haven, which enables riders to experience sun-drenched beaches, shadowy pine forests and mist-shrouded mountains in a single day’s ride, all with crowd-free serenity.

‘Corsica is a little like the land that time forgot,’ explains Mark Lund, a seasonal resident of Corsica who maintains a blog about cycling on the island (corsicacyclist.com). ‘There are no motorways, no fast food chains, none of the major developments that you find on other Mediterranean coasts. There are also in excess of 150 cols compressed into an island that boasts more than 200 beaches.’

Of course, in truth the island is not exactly virgin territory for cyclists. The Tour de Corse has been in existence since 1920 and was won previously by Tour champions such as Stephen Roche and Bernard Hinault before it reverted to being an amateur competition in 2000.

‘There are no motorways, no fast-food chains, and more than 150 cols to ride’

cyclist 6160 cyclist

Corsica

P

Total distance: 199kmTotal elevation: 3,400m

Piana

Corte

Calvi

Combining the best parts of Stage 3 of the 2013 Tour de France with Corsica’s highest climb (the 1,477m Col de Vergio) and a few other local cycling secrets, this 199km route showcases the incredible geographical diversity of the island. Cyclist started from the northwest coastal resort of Calvi, which is 90 minutes’ drive from Bastia. The route heads south along the coast on the D81B, before cutting inland on the D81 to Porto. It’s worth continuing 13km south on the D81 to take in the stunning Calanches region before doubling back from Piana to Porto to pick up the D84 and travel northeast to Ponte Castirla. From here it’s a 12km stretch south along the D18 to Corte, where you can stay the night or take a pre-arranged transfer back to Bastia or Calvi. The Corsica-based Europe Active (www.europe-active.com) can arrange hotels or transfers for you or your luggage.

Island lifeGet a taste of the Tour, with extras on the side

The Critérium International has been based here since 2010, with Team Sky’s Chris Froome triumphing in 2013. And many amateur riders enjoy tackling the week-long Raid Corsica, including Neil Salmons from Blewbury in Oxfordshire, who I meet at Corsica’s Bastia airport when I fly out to explore the cycling hotspot of 2013. ‘From what I’ve heard about the Corsican scenery it will be a hard but amazing experience,’ Salmons says. The volume of bike boxes on our flight is ‘unprecedented’, according to the Easyjet air hostess who has asked us – rather worryingly – to move seats to better balance the plane.

Ringing the changes I’m joined on my ride by local cyclist Nicolas Miaskiewicz of the Corsica-based cycling company Europe Active (www.europe-active.com). He’s a fan of ‘big warriors’ such as Sylvain Chavanel and Fabian Cancellara, he rides a Look 586 with Zipp 404 wheels and is passionate enough about cycling to join me on his day off. We are accompanied by photographer Pete Webb, who will be driven around the island by a helpful local – also called Nicolas.

Our 199km route runs from Calvi on the northwest coast of the island to the town of Corte in the mountainous interior. It takes in the best parts of the jaw-dropping third stage of the Tour de France (which we tackle in reverse), including beautiful seascapes, snaking corniche roads

Head away from the coast and the landscape remains relentlessly impressive

corsica

Porto

Ponte Castirla

62 cyclist

Corsica

P

P

cyclist 6564 cyclist

Corsica

The best thing I can say about the Scott CR1 is that this is the first bike that has left me depressed and in need of chocolate and beer when I had to send it back to the manufacturer at the end of the test ride. With a floaty-light frame it was genuinely a pleasure to hit some of the island’s tougher coastal climbs. Although Corsica’s roads are smooth in the main, the clever shock- absorbing properties of the carbon frame quelled the impact of the island’s bumpier backroads, and with the addition of Ultegra Di2 components the whole experience was as smooth as a James Bond chat-up line. The Syncros wheel skewers were a bit fiddly, especially with the dropout design at the rear, but that’s a small gripe on a refined bike that has ruined my relationship with my Pinarello.

The rider’s rideScott CR1 Premium, £3,999, www.scott-sports.com

and the extraordinary UNESCO-protected red coastal cliffs of the Calanches, which inspired Chris Froome to tweet about this ‘beautiful island’ on his trip earlier this year.

But thanks to Miaskiewicz’s local knowledge, the route we’re riding also features some added extras that the pros won’t get to enjoy, notably the 1,477m Col de Vergio (the highest climb on the island), the Gorges de Spelunca (revered as Corsica’s most dramatic road journey) and the Scala di Santa Regina (a high-speed and challenging descent through a desolate valley.)

Variety is the spice‘In Corsica the scenery changes every time you turn a corner and I still discover new roads whenever I am out on my bike,’ says Miaskiewicz. ‘This route will really show the variety on the island. The third stage of the Tour along the west coast is just “wow” – one of the most beautiful routes in Corsica,’ he continues. ‘But the gorges and mountains we’ll be tackling at the end of our ride show that Corsica can be a hard challenge as well as a beautiful location, if you want it to be.’

The diversity of the island’s landscape becomes immediately apparent when we clip in at the start of our ride in Calvi. In a single glance I can see the white sand beaches and palm trees on the coast, as well as the inland snow-capped 2,706m peak of Monte Cinto. The smell of sun lotion and sea salt fills the air as we set out in the morning sunshine, past a jumble of pastel-painted houses and skirting around the granite base of the famous citadel. I get an extra warm-up when I accidentally ride through spilt oil and find myself performing

Above: The 2013 Tour doesn’t actually take in Corsica’s highest climb. We did, of course

Far left: Pizza for lunch can be had for just €8 if you ride past the tourist traps and explore

Left: The Moor’s Head from the Corsican flag decorates car number-plates in the south of the island

66 cyclist

Corsica

P

P

Tips from the topCutting-edge kit for your Corsican tripTime for The TourIn honour of the 100th Tour de France, Polar has produced a yellow version of its RC3 GPS watch. The slim unit will track route, speed, cadence, heart rate and a pile of other data big enough to make pro coaches’ heads explode. For me, the biggest benefit in Corsica was the 12-hour GPS battery life and useful altitude display. £199.50, www.polaruk.co.uk

Take flighTAdidas’s Adistar jersey features ‘Bolero’, which the company claims is an aerodynamic leading edge that mimics the front of an aeroplane’s wing. I can’t say that wearing it made me feel supersonic, but the jersey certainly offers the slick ride of a skinsuit without sacrificing the freedom to adapt your clothing – vital in Corsica’s shifting micro-climates. £148, www.sigmasport.co.uk

cyclist 69

an impromptu turbo session, spinning the pedals furiously and going nowhere fast.

Just a few kilometres along the coastal road out of Calvi we pass the squat lighthouse of La Revelleta. The first 40km are gently undulating and we fly up cliffs that never top more than 120m in altitude and glide past sandy coves, sea caves and secluded bays. To our left is a barren expanse of grey-white rock and native maquis shrubland, which has a relaxing fragrance of lavender, sage and myrtle that makes you feel as though you’re cycling through a branch of The Body Shop. To our right the deep inky blue of the Mediterranean Sea melts into patches of turquoise and jade as it nears the shore while waves detonate against the rocks with explosions of white foam.

The Tour de France riders take a simpler inland route on their final push north to Calvi, but while these narrow coastal roads might not be suitable for a rampaging peloton, they are fine for a small group of cyclists. The road conditions deteriorate as you travel south along the coast, but the views more than make up for the butt-bruising surface.

Near the Golfe de Galeria the route darts inland and we cross a bridge over the River Fango – a mountain torrent that flows out to

Mediterranean sunshine is in plentiful supply, but micro=climates match the island’s wildly diverse geography

sea near the town of Galeria. This stretch offers a momentary glimpse of the forests of the Vallée du Fango, framed against the stark grey mountains of the interior.

The coast is clearOver the next 10km the asphalt climbs up to the 400m Col de la Palmarella with an average gradient of 4%. It’s followed by a gentler 40km stretch along the corniche road that hugs the western coastline. We travel past jagged rocks covered in green and orange lichen and dip under the shade of the island’s ubiquitous laricio pines. All along the coast we can see rust-red cliffs, pebble beaches, crescent-shaped bays and the volcanic mass of stacked slabs and rocky outcrops that form the Réserve Naturelle de Scandola. A brief rainstorm threatens to drain the fun out of our ride, but the blue skies soon return. Visitors should expect micro-climates to match Corsica’s wild geography.

We cycle through a tunnel of gum trees to reach the coastal town of Porto, which curls around a sandy cove beneath a 16th century Genoese watchtower. The tower was used to defend against Saracen and pirate raids when Corsica was under Genoese control. It seems like the perfect place to stop for lunch, so we tuck

‘We travel past jagged rocks covered in green and orange lichen and dip into the shade of Corsica’s ubiquitous laricio pines’

Corsica

68 cyclist

P

P

into a gooey pizza and stare out at the Golfe de Porto. Don’t get stung in the tourist traps first visible on your arrival in Porto (€39 for four stale baguettes and four cans of drink at Hotel Le Golfe) and take the time to shop around in the quieter back streets (€8 for a 12-inch pizza at a pizzeria around the corner).

If you’re short on time or energy you could immediately head inland from here, but if you’re prepared to tackle the 12km climb south towards the coastal town of Piana you’ll enjoy one of the most arresting natural landscapes in Corsica: the Calanches. These fiery red and orange pinnacles rise up along the coastline like the towering ramparts of a rock-hewn fortress. Some of their peaks have been eroded into bizarre shapes – look out for a heart, a monocled bishop, a devil and a bear – and the rocks change colour in the shifting sunlight, glowing deep red at sunset.

‘Fiery red and orange pinnacles rise up like towering ramparts of a rock-hewn fortress’

Disturbing the peaceThe serene roads of Corsica are about to become bedlam

29th June 2013 is the day the circus comes to town. Corsica plays host to the first three stages of this year’s Tour de France, meaning that these quiet roads will soon become choked with Tour mayhem.

Before the riders leave the start line, the marketing ‘caravan’ of around 160 vehicles trundles the course, spewing out free gifts for the crowd. Then comes the race – 22 teams, each with team cars and mechanic’s vehicles (not to mention the 200-odd riders), accompanied by a convoy of race officials, police outriders, neutral service vehicles, ambulances, VIP cars and the broom wagon. After that you’ve got the media. The Tour will play host to around 2,500 journalists from around the world; there will be about 260 cameramen, 240 photographers, 35 trucks of broadcasting equipment and four helicopters. And we haven’t even got to the fans yet…

Drink in the stunning views, devour the rapid

descents, but best do one at a time

Corsica

70 cyclist

P

P

By the numbersBecause everyone loves stats

3 number of Tour de France posters seen

199 distance in kilometres of the route

31 temperature in degrees C at the hottest part of the day

2 pizzas devoured for lunch

3,400 metres climbed

18 number of touring cyclists with maps and panniers spotted

Cycling up to the Calanches involves a punchy climb with gradients of up to 14%. It’s tempting to ride back down and laze on the beach at Porto with chocolate ice creams instead, but to pedal through this eerie red landscape makes every bead of sweat worthwhile. These roads get choked with tourists in summer but don’t let traffic stop you coming here. When you’ve finished ogling the rocks and taking pictures, you can stop for a coffee – and Corsicans are fiercely proud of their coffee – in the quiet mountain town of Piana just beyond the Calanches. Here you can simultaneously drink in the views back to the distant Réserve Naturelle de Scandola.

Into the island’s heart We zip downhill, squinting against the sparkling cobalt ocean as we curl down the coastal roads and commence a 30km inland journey to the 1,478m Col de Vergio – the highest point in Corsica traversable by road. The scenery changes dramatically as we head east and carve through

the Gorges de Spelunca. We’re surrounded by steep granite walls, boulder-strewn rivers and rugged valleys lined with conifers and chestnut trees (chestnut flour is used to make a delicious Corsican beer called Pietra, which should be sampled at the end of every ride). Goats and wild boar occasionally scuttle across the road in front of us. It is worth taking a break in the pretty mountain town of Evisa, which appears as a vivid cluster of terracotta roofs amidst the greenery, to sample the tasty charcuterie and strong goats’ cheese that is popular fodder in Corsica’s mountains.

As we grind ever higher on the narrow mountain road, which rarely jumps above a steady but leg-warming 6% gradient, I regret peering over the side of the road and seeing the plunging 1,000m drops into the valley below. Despite the kilometres already etched into my quads, I’m delighted that we’re cycling uphill instead of down at this point.

The expansive views shrink away when we again pedal under the shade of Corsica’s giant

laricio pines in the Foret d’Aitone. Some are 50m tall and up to 500 years old. There are crystal-clear natural pools here that you can swim in, but at this altitude it would require a braver cyclist than me to take the plunge. It’s much cooler up here and we reach for jackets and gilets. When we arrive at the Col de Vergio it’s hugged by mist and cloud, although this climb would normally reward visitors with panoramic views of the island’s mountainous heartland. The road sign at the top is plastered with stickers from touring motorbike and cycling clubs.

I am convinced that the Col de Vergio must be the final highlight of our Corsican adventure but there is more to come. The 1,000m descent takes in the stark Foret de Valdo-Niolo, the Lac de Calacuccia, which shimmers in the early evening sunlight, and a rugged gorge known as the Scala di Santa Regina, which meanders for 21km beneath sheer 300m-high granite walls. It’s said locally that if Corsica is the work of God, then the Scala is the work of the Devil. We pass goat and mule tracks, tumbling waterfalls, jade

pools and dramatic stone bridges as we follow the current of the frothy Golo River. These quietly spectacular roads are the perfect end to what’s become a very special journey.

Limitless beauty The finish of the route is the town of Corte, which has historically been the spiritual home of the island’s independence movement. You can stay the night in Corte before moving on the next morning, or arrange for a luggage transfer or pick-up through Europe Active. We are driven back to our hotel in the northeast resort of Bastia and use the 90-minute drive to chat about the epic scenery of the day.

The centenary edition of the Tour de France may be breaking new ground by coming to Corsica, but our visit to the island marks a record-breaking trip for Cyclist, too. With an inexhaustible supply of photogenic scenery along every section of the route, this is the first Big Ride that has left the photographer more knackered than the riders. For the best part

‘It’s said locally that if Corsica is the work of God, then the Scala di Santa Regina gorge is the work of the Devil’

Left: Serious road-side drops mean sometimes its best to simply focus on what’s ahead

Below left: A steady, leg-warming 6% climb on the way to the heart of Corsica

Below right: After riding the island’s highest road, some choose to cool off in the clear natural pools

cyclist 7372 cyclist

Corsica

P

P

Travel Cyclist flew with Easyjet (www.easyjet.com), which operates flights from London Gatwick and Manchester to Bastia in the northeast of Corsica. Flights to Ajaccio, on the western coast, are also available from Gatwick. Car hire was through Hertz (www.hertz.com), which has a fleet of bike-friendly people carriers.

BikesEurope Active (www.europe-active.com) offers a range of guided and self-guided cycling tours in Corsica, with options for accommodation, a support vehicle and luggage transfers. It also rents road bikes. This year the company is offering a special Tour de France itinerary from 27th June to 3rd July.

accommodaTionCyclist was based in Bastia at Hotel Les Voyageurs (www.hotel-lesvoyageurs.com), which offers rooms from €60-€150. Although staying here involves a drive or transfer to the start of our Big Ride route in Calvi, Bastia is a good place to be based because from here you can also tackle the spectacular loop around nearby Cap Corse or the second stage of the 2013 Tour de France from Bastia to Ajaccio.

informaTionFor more destinations and route options, go to www.visit-corsica.com and www.corsicacyclist.com.

How we got there

of ten hours Pete was scanning the scenery, leaping out of the car and climbing up to spectacular vantage points.

Corsica is a truly unique cycling destination and one to add to your must-ride list. It doesn’t have mountains as high as the Alps and the Pyrenees, or roads as reliably smooth as Mallorca or Tenerife, but its charm lies in its eternal variety, with every twist in the road revealing another spectacular seascape, golden beach, plunging gorge or goosebump-inducing mountain vista. It’s incredible to think that an island with such remarkable geographical diversity is, in fact, less than half the size of Wales.

When I speak to Neil Salmons at the end of his own Corsican odyssey, he is equally mesmerised. ‘The scenery was as impressive as anywhere I have cycled,’ he says after his week-long adventure. ‘We hardly came across any flat stretch on the whole island – lumpy is definitely the apt word. You really get the feeling of being in the back of beyond once inland, and some of the coastal roads are truly amazing.’

There is no doubt that cyclists who take the time to tour this island over several days will get the most rewarding experiences. Save your personal bests and pro dreams for the Tour’s mythical mainland climbs, and leave your hill repeats, threshold efforts and training drills for other Mediterranean islands. Corsica is a place of infinite variety, which deserves to be explored and enjoyed with your eyes wide open. Mark Bailey is a freelance journalist who will be watching the opening stages of the Tour de France with a personal interest this year

Oh go on then, you’ve earned it

74 cyclist

Corsica

P

]