corrective techniques - airbase · after using air-applied cosmetics on the upper eyelid, if your...

CorrectiveTechniquesAdvanced Airbrush Make-Up Corrective Techniques

Airbase Make-Up: An IntroductionThe professional, silicone based spray make-up designed foreveryday use.

Airbase is the airbrush make-up of choice for celebrities, bridal make-upexperts and TV and film make-up artists. Now also available for use athome, for your clients to enjoy the flawless airbrushed look every day.

The combination of airbrushing and luxurious silicone combines perfectlyso that when you use Airbase your clients will enjoy:

• Flawless finish• Weightless application• Long lasting• Allows skin to breathe• No ‘touch-ups’ required• Silicone based• Looks smooth and natural

Airbase Airbrush Make-Up is now the choice of make-up artists, beauty salons and the public!

Corrective Techniques©2011 Caplin Naake Associates. All rights reserved.

CorrectiveTechniques


Advanced Corrective Make-Up:

Facial AnalysisAfter gently cleansing your client’s skin with the microfibre Cleansing Mitt and prior to commencing make-upapplication, it is important to conduct a thorough facialanalysis to identify any specialised correctivetechniques that may be required.

Individual blemishesCorrect with eitherconcealor or colourmatched Airbasefoundation

Fine lines and under-eyepigmentationApply under eye primer orAirbase Prime. Colour correctwith either concealor, colourmatched or colour correctiveAirbase foundation

Areas of overly floridskin colourationColour correct with eitherconcealor, colour matched orcolour corrective Airbasefoundation

Areas with enlarged poresand uneven skin texture

Refine skin with poreminimising / retexturising

primer

Areas of uneven skinhydrationHydrate skin using alightweight, oil free fluidmoisturiser or Airbase Prime

Areas of unevenpigmentationCorrect with colourmatched Airbasefoundation

Before make-upBefore make-up

After make-up


Preparing The SkinMoisturiser & Sun ProtectionAfter cleansing and toning your client’sskin, it is important to ensure the skin isevenly hydrated.

On areas of excessive dryness, apply alightweight moisturiser.

If UV / sun protection is required use amoisturiser having an appropriate SunProtection Factor (SPF) over all exposedskin including ears, back of the neckand, if appropriate, décolleté. It is important to remember that AirbaseMake-Up does not provide any sun protection.

Under-Base ConcealorThe application of conventional concealors over the top of a flawlesslyapplied airbrush make-up can make such correction appear obvious toboth naked eye and camera.

Therefore any conventional concealor application should be undertakenprior to applying Airbase Make-Up.

Conventional concealors may be set after application with a little no-colourtranslucent powder prior to applying airbrush cosmetics.

Uneven Skin TextureWhere open pores or uneven skin texture is apparent, a pore minimising orretexturising primer may be used to refine the skin prior to cosmeticapplication.

Airbase Prime is asilicone based primerthat is designed to helpboth minimise minordifferences in skin textureand also to provide theperfect base for AirbaseMake-up.




Foundation Colour ChoiceThere are 10 shades of colour in theAirbase Make-Up system: 7 xFoundation shades, 2 x Blush shadesand 1 x Bronze shade.

The Foundation shades may be mixedtogether to obtain the perfect colourmatch.

Both the Blush shades and Bronze mayalso be added to the Foundations ascolour adjusters.

Generally your client’s skin will exhibitone of three predominant underlying skincolours - olive (neutral), sallow(yellow/golden) or ruddy (red/warm).

It is very important to correctly identifywhich of the three basic underlying skincolours is predominant, as choosing the wrong shade can give the skin a dull, chalky or even grey complexion.

Most basic beauty make-up work requires matching the skin colour precisely.

With more advanced corrective make-ups or camouflage work, we oftenneed to balance the skin colour, perhaps to correct an overly sallowcomplexion by using a warmer foundation colour.

Test your foundation colour choice onthe jaw line of your client, either using theAirbase Foundation Brush or via theairbrush

Finding the perfect foundation colour isquick and easy with Airbase Make-Up.Further information on colour matchingand mixing is available in the AirbaseTraining Manual.

Testing the foundation colour on theclient’s jaw line

Custom blending foundation colours is easywith Airbase Make-Up

Airbase Make-Up Colour Range

00 01 02 03 04

Blush 01

All colours may be mixed to create precisecustom shades

Blush 02 Blush 03

05 06


Foundation ApplicationStep # 1Add a total of approximately 16 drops ofyour colour matched Airbase foundationto the airbrush colour cup.

To ensure a perfect colour match, youmay mix different colours together with acocktail stick.

Remember to note the exact number ofdrops used of each colour - so remixingis easy!

Step # 2Always apply Airbase Make-Up to theskin following the techniques and safetyguidance found in the Airbase TrainingManual.

Ensure that your client’s eyes andmouth are closed at all times whenairbrushing the face.

Gently apply a lightweight foundation -holding the airbrush 8 cm to 10 cm fromthe skin, protecting the hair from overspray with a tissue.

Step # 3Work down the face using small circularor long sweeping movements.

Angle the airbrush to spray downwardsonto the face.

NEVER angle the airbrush upwardstowards the nostrils, into the ears nordirect airflow or make-up under thelash line as this may accidentally forceopen the eye.




Foundation ApplicationStep # 4When working on or near to the nose areaminimise the make-up flow from theairbrush by reducing the amount you pullback on the airbrush trigger.

Always ask your client to HOLD THEIRBREATH for a short time when working onor around the nose area - or when there isany increased risk of cosmetic inhalation.

Stop working around the nose every 15seconds to allow your client to exhale and take a fresh breath of air prior tocontinuing. NEVER angle the airbrush upwards towards the nostrils. If there isany risk that airbrush cosmetics could be sprayed into the nose, mask thenostrils with a tissue (see picture opposite).

Step # 5It is far better to lightly cover the skin withmultiple layers (known as “colour passes”) thanto apply a single, more heavy colour pass.Multiple colour passes help to give the skin amore flawless appearance without too muchmake-up being apparent.

To add increased cosmetic coverage to specificareas of the face with higher levels ofpigmentation or to camouflage small blemishessuch as spots, use the following technique,known as “pulsing”.

Keep the airbrush static about 10 cm away fromthe skin, pointing directly at the area to you wishto cover. With your finger pressing down on theairbrush trigger to continually release air via theairbrush, gently rock the trigger backwards and forwards to expel intermittent,light pulses of make-up. Do not pull too far back on the trigger as this will givea heavier application of make-up. Continue this pulsing action to lightly applycolour until the blemish has been totally covered with Airbase Make-Up.



Foundation ApplicationStep # 6If you wish to apply a light colour pass ofAirbase foundation to the upper eyelids,use the same gentle colour pulsingaction as described in Step #5.

Lightly tension the lid space by gentlylifting the brow with your thumb (seepicture opposite) to help eliminatecosmetic creasing on the eyelid.

NEVER pull the eyelid open when lifting the brow nor spray make-upunder the lash line as this may accidentally force open the eye.

Step # 7After using air-applied cosmetics on theupper eyelid, if your client has moremature skin, you may lightly blend outthe foundation using the AirbaseFoundation Brush, prior to the productsetting.

This will help prevent the make-up fromsettling into any fine lines that may beapparent around the eye area.

Step # 8The Airbase Foundation Brush may alsobe used to refine the make-up aroundthe mouth and nose area to help preventthe make-up from settling into any finelines in this area.



Foundation ApplicationStep # 9Sometimes Airbase Make-Up may bevisible on the eyebrows and vellus hair(the fine down that can sometimes bepresent on the face). This may beremoved by gently sweeping over theboth the brows and vellus hairs with asynthetic latex sponge make-up wedge.

Always ensure you lightly sweep thesponge in a downward direction when

dusting off the vellus hairs, following the direction of hair growth.

Prior to commencing contour and highlight work, take time to study yourfoundation to ensure the desired level of cosmetic coverage and correctionhas been achieved.

Advanced Corrective Make-Up: Contouring The FaceThe illusion of flawless, dewy skin created with Airbase Make-Up can beenhanced by moving on to utilise the more advanced beauty correctivetechniques of contouring and highlighting.

Cosmetic Contouring (Shading)By mixing a few drops of a dark Airbase foundation shade (such asFoundation 05 or 06) into the small amount of colour matched foundationremaining in the airbrush, a subtle contour (shadow) colour can be created.

To add a little more glamour and warmthto this contour colour, one or two dropsof either Airbase Blush 1 or Blush 2 maybe added as desired.

Place contour colour under thecheekbones by lightly spraying contourcolour onto the skin, using the AirbaseShading Pad to prevent overspray andensure accuracy of colour placement.




Highlighting The FaceCosmetic HighlightingTo accentuate your client's cheekbones and to createother highpoint highlights on the face, a highlightercolour may be applied to complement yourcontouring work.

Normally a colour two to three shades lighter than thefoundation colour is used or, when this is not possiblefor very fair complexions, simply use AirbaseFoundation 00.

Begin by first thoroughly spraying out any remainingcontour {shadow) colour from the airbrush into atissue and follow with just a few drops of AirbaseThinner and Cleaner. Flush the Thinner and Cleanerthrough the airbrush into a tissue, wiping the sides ofthe airbrush colour cup with the Cleaning Brushsupplied if necessary.

Next, add your highlighter shade to the airbrush and spray through onto atissue until your highlighter colour is seen to be expelled through the airbrush.

Using the Airbase Shading Pad to ensure accuracy of placement, lightlyspray highlight colour onto the tops of the cheekbones and also addhighpoint emphasis to other areas such as the bridge of the nose,forehead and chin.

Advanced Corrective Make-Up: Brow, Eye and Lip ColourPrior to applying airbrush blush, use conventional make-up applicators todefine the brows and create the perfect eye and lip make-up to suit thepersonal preferences and requirements of your client .


Blush ApplicationBlush gives radiance and life to the face -and is particularly essential if a highdegree of cosmetic corrective coveragehas removed the skin’s own naturalwarmth.

To apply Airbase Blush, begin by firstthoroughly spraying out any remaininghighlight colour from the airbrush into atissue and follow with just a few drops ofAirbase Thinner and Cleaner. Flush the

Thinner and Cleaner through the airbrush into a tissue, wiping the sides ofthe airbrush colour cup with the Cleaning Brush supplied if necessary.Next, add your choice of either Airbase Blush 1 or Blush 2 to the airbrushand spray through onto a tissue until your blush colour is seen to beexpelled through the airbrush.

Directing the airbrush towards the apples of the cheeks, sweep blushcolour lightly onto the cheek area - avoiding blush placement too close tothe nose. Additional warmth may be given to the skin by lightly mistingblush over the forehead, temples and decollete, if desired.

Advanced Corrective Make-Up: The Completed LookThe flawless, natural finish achieved with Airbase Make-Up gives long-lasting, perfect coverage every time.

Your clients will enjoy the feel ofthe lightweight dewy finish ofAirbase Make- Up on their skin.

As this amazing “before” and“after” photo shows - the stunningresults achieved with the Airbasemake it the number one choice ofmany professional make-upartists, beauty professionals and,increasingly, the general public.

Defining the brows Eye shadow & eye liner Mascara applicationBefore make-up After make-up

Defining the lip line& lip colour

CorrectiveTechniquesAdvanced Airbrush Make-Up Corrective Techniques

Airbase15 Meadow CloseNottinghamNG2 3HZ

t: 0115 9864 722e: [email protected]: www.airbasemakeup.com


corrective techniques - airbase · after using air-applied cosmetics on the upper eyelid, if your...

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