construction bottoms (lined and unlined)
TRANSCRIPT
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Ann Taylor
Ann Taylor LoftAnn Taylor Factory Stores
Construction Guidelines
CAREER & RELAXED SEPARATES
BOTTOMS
Lined & Unlined
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 5 February 2004
CAREER & RELAXED SEPARATES BOTTOMS
INTRODUCTION:
The Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Construction Guidelines represent the base standards for garment construction methods, terminology and
components.
These guidelines provide a common approach to achieve consistent construction and superlative quality for all Ann Taylor, Ann Taylor Loft and
Ann Taylor Factory Stores apparel products.
The guidelines are a resource to establish requirements for styling, garment construction and component parts.
NOTE: See Garment Specification Package for style specific construction and components.
CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS:
SHADES: All shades are to be individually labeled.
PLAIDS & STRIPES (Vertical and Horizontal): Plaid is to match around garment.
Horizontal stripes are to match around garment.
Pockets & Flaps to match vertical and horizontal pattern (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package). Left and right of garments are to have balanced placement.
One-way fabrics are to be cut in same direction unless otherwise specified to be “A”/”B” marker.
Style specific plaid & stripe placement requirements are to be reviewed and documented on Development Spec Package. NOTE: Placement is to be confirmed prior to fit approval and documented in Production Spec Package.
STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS FOR CAREER & RELAXED SEPARATES PANTS & SKIRTS: Fully Lined.
Stitches per Inch (SPI): Shell: 10-12 SPI Topstitching: See Spec Package. Lining: 10-12 SPI Lockstitch or Chainstitch
FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES: All Interlinings, primary standard or otherwise, are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance.
Following parts to be fused, unless indicated otherwise in Spec Pkg.:
* Inner & Outer Waistband - Note: Contour Waistbands, cut 2 piece fusible w/ Front and Back Waistband fusible parts cut on “Straight Grain”
(Waistband Fusible Quality Options: Outer Waistband: Kufner #R861 /PCC #1061 Inner Waistband: Kufner #V401 / PCC #2610)
* Waist Facing * Zipper Setting + Fly Facing& Extension * Pocket Edge + Pocket Setting
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 6 February 2004
STANDARD CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES SECTION (PAGES 6-16):
PANT LEG PRE-CREASE:
NOTE: See Spec Package for style details - Crease OR NO Crease.
CenterofLeg
B9-1 Pre-Crease Leg
FrontFront
CenterofLeg
Note:
Crease Leg toThigh Line Only
Thigh
Line
Crease along
center of Leg
NO Creasefrom Waist to
Thigh line
Center of leg is at "right angle" to Hem line.
Align
Outsesam &Inseam edgefrom Knee to
Leg Opening
Front Leg
Back Leg
At "final" pressing:
Position along Front leg
crease prior to pressing
Back Leg crease.
Note: Inseam and
Outseam are aligned
from Knee to Leg
Opening.
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 7 February 2004
PANT CONSTRUCTION METHODS:NOTE: • See Specification Package for “Construction Method”.
• Thread / Needle size compatible with fabric quality. • Overedge stitch width 1/8” minimum.
Method 1 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) • Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge • Outseam • Inseam • Open press
• Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge
(double stitch base of Rise)
• Front Rise • Back Rise • Open press – above rise curve
Method 2 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
• Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge • Outseam • Inseam • Open press
•
Chainstitch; Open w/ Overedge •
Front Rise • Back Rise •
Open Press – above rise curve
Method 3 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
• Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge • Outseam • Inseam • Open press
• Safety Stitch • Front Rise • Back Rise • Press toward wearer’s left (Exception: Menswear
Fly Closure, pressed toward wearer’s right)
Method 4 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
• Lockstitch; Closed w/ Overedge • Outseam • Inseam • Press toward back
• Lockstitch; Closed w/Overedge
(Double stitch base of Rise)
• Front Rise • Back Rise • Press toward wearer’s left (Exception: Menswear
Fly Closure, pressed toward wearer’s right)
Method 5 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
• Chainstitch; Closed w/ Overedge • Outseam • Inseam • Press toward back
•
Front Rise • Back Rise •
Press toward wearer’s left (Exception: MenswearFly Closure, pressed toward wearer’s right)
Method 6 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
• Safety Stitch • Outseam • Inseam • Press toward back
• Front Rise • Back Rise • Press toward wearer’s left (Exception: Menswear
Fly Closure, pressed toward wearer’s right)
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 8 February 2004
SKIRT CONSTRUCTION METHODS:NOTE: • See Specification Package for “Construction Method”.
• Thread / Needle size compatible with fabric quality. • Overedge stitch width 1/8” minimum.
Method 1 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
• Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge • Side seams • Center Back • Open press
• Panel seams • Center Front
Method 2 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
• Chainstitch; Open w/ Overedge • Side seams • Center Back • Open press
• Panel seams • Center Front
Method 3 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
• Lockstitch; Closed w/ Overedge • Side seams • Press toward back
• Center Back • Press toward wearer’s left
• Center Front • Press toward wearer’s right
• Panel seams • Press toward center
Method 4 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
• Chainstitch; Closed w/ Overedge • Side seams • Press toward back
• Center Back • Press toward wearer’s left
• Center Front • Press toward wearer’s right
• Panel seams • Press toward center
Method 5 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
•
Safety Stitch •
Side seams •
Press toward back
• Center Back • Press toward wearer’s left
• Center Front • Press toward wearer’s right
• Panel seams • Press toward center
Method 6 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
• French Seam • Side seams • Press toward back
•
Center Back •
Press toward wearer’s left• Panel seams • Press toward center
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 9 February 2004
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED & UNLINED PANTS & SKIRTS:
Lockstitch - Open Press w/Overedge Finish Chainstitch – Open Press w/ Overedge Finish
Open Press
Lockstitch Overedge
Lockstitch
A1-1 Lockstitch w/Overedge finish - Open Press
Seam Details
•
1/2” seamallowance
• Overedge at
raw edge
• Lockstitch
• Open Press
(Above rise
curve)
(Note:
If Topstitched,
press to one
side of seam.
See Spec Pkg.)
A1-2 Chainstitch w/ Overedge finish - (Open press)
Chainstitch(under side)
Overedge
Open Press
(top sideof stitch)
Overedge
Seam Details
•
1/2” seamallowance
• Overedge at
raw edge
• 2-Thread
Chainstitch
•
Open Press
(above rise
curve)
(Note:
If Topstitched,
press to one side
of seam. See
Spec Pkg.)
Lockstitch - Closed w/ Overedge Safety Stitch
LockstitchClose w/ Overedge
A1-5 Lockstitch; Closed w/Overedge -
(press to one side)
Seam Details
• 3/8” to ½”
seam
allowance
• Lockstitch
• Closed w/
Overedge
• Press to one
side
(See
Construction
Methods Chart
/ Spec Pkg.)
Chainstitch(under side)
(top side
of stitch)
Overedge Stitch
A1-6 Safety Stitch (5-Thread)
Safety Stitch(Combination of
Single Needle Chainstitch
+ Overedge Stitch)
Press to One Side (see Spec Pkg)
Seam Details
• 3/8” seam
allowance
• Press to one
side (see
ConstructionMethods Chart or
Spec Pkg.)
• Shell seams
• Lining seams
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 10 February 2004
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED & UNLINED PANTS & SKIRTS:
Felled Seam w/ Chainstitch Felled Seam w/ Lockstitch
A1-20 Felled seam - Chainstitched
Chain Stitch
Outside of Garment Inside of Garment
Cross Section
Through
Stitch
Seam allowances inter-lap
ThroughStitch
Seam Details
•
Lapped Seam
(Raw edges
enclosed)
• 1/4” to
3/8”seam
allowance
•
2-ThreadChainstitch
Outside View
A1-21 Felled seam - Lockstitched
Inside View
Lockstitch
Seam allowances inter-lap
Through
Stitch
Cross Section
Through
Stitch
Seam Details
•
Lapped Seam
(Raw edges
enclosed)
• 1/4” to 3/8”
seam
allowance
•
Lockstitch
Lockstitch; Raw Edge
Seam Types: Waistband / Waist Edge, Pocket Edge
LockstitchRaw Edge
A1-0a Lockstitch; Raw Edge - (press to one side)
Lockstitch
Seam Details
• 1/4” seam
allowance
• Edge seams
•
Internal seams(i.e. Waistband
/ Waist Edge,
Pocket Flap)
• When pressed
to one side
(See
Construction
Methods Chart orSpec Pkg.)
Back Tack
1/2" Tail
A2-0a Dart Seam w/ Lockstitch
Single Point
*Follow Dart Guideon pattern
Darts
• Lockstitch
• Press dart
toward Center
Front / Center
Back
• Run off Dart
Point w/ ½”
tail.
• No dimpling at
Dart Point
•
Follow Dart
marker
A T l Gl b l S i S d d C i G id li
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 11 February 2004
LEATHER SEAMING
Lockstitch – Glued Open Press Lockstitch – Glued Pressed Closed
A1-25 Lockstitch; Open Press & Glued
Raw Edge
Lockstitch join seam
Open Press
and
Glued
Seam Details
• Lockstitch
• Pressed Open
& glued
•
3/8” to 1/ 2”
seam allowance
(depending onseam location)
Lockstitch join seam
Raw Edge
A1-26 Lockstitch;
Press to one side
and Glued
Seam Details
• Lockstitch
• Pressed to one
side & glued
•
3/8” to 1/ 2”
seam allowance
(depending onseam location)
A T l Gl b l S i St d d C t ti G id li
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 12 February 2004
STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED & UNLINED PANTS & SKIRTS:
Stay-Stitch (Pre-Stitch) Hip Curve Inseam – for patterns w/ Back Inseam shorter than Front Inseam.
Seam Line
B9-2 Hip Curve Stay-Stitch
F ro nt
Staystitch1/16"fromSeamline
Seam Line
Back
Staystitch
1/16"fromSeamline
Seam Details
PANT: Outseam
SKIRT: Side
Seam
• Lockstitch
•
Stitch in seamallowance
(approx. 1/16”
from seam line)Stretch
Back Inseam
evenly to
matchFront Inseam
I n s e a m
I n s e a m
(align edge
@ seam)
(match notches)
KneeKnee
Back RiseFront Rise
B9-3 Inseam from Rise to Knee
* NOTE: For patterns w/ Back Inseam shorter than
Front Inseam from Rise to Knee
(match notches)
Seam Details
• ½” Seam
allowance
(unless noted
otherwise in
spec pkg.)
A T l Gl b l S i St d d C t ti G id li
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 13 February 2004
STANDARD LEG OPENING FINISHES:
Blindstitch requirements:
• Machine should be set to 1:1 stitch ratio
•
Do not use skipstitch function ( 2:1 or 3:1) unless specified by Technical Design.• Overlap blindstitch by 1” and lock tail either by tacking or by using a self locking blindstitch machine. (Treasure Co. produces such a machine)
• Recommended Needles: Groz-Beckert V-Needle size 65. Needle will be relevant to fabric.
• Recommended Thread Quality: Amann Serafil 200/2 ( www.amann-online.de ). Thread quality will be relevant to fabric.
With Hem Tape (Non-Stretch fabrics)
A15-7 Hem w/Taped Edge; Bendback; Blindstitch
Outside Garment Inside Garment
Hem Tape
Blindstitch
Set tape w/ Edgestitch
(No deep stitch pick )
1:1 stitch ratio
No Hem Tape (Stretch Fabrics, unless otherwise noted in Spec Pkg.)
A15-6 Hem w/ Overedge; Bendback; Blindstitch
Outside Garment Inside Garment
OveredgeBlindstitch
(No deep stitch pick )
1:1 stitch ratio
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 14 February 2004
STANDARD LEG OPENING FINISHES (continued)
Cuff w/ 2 Tacks (for Narrow Leg Opening)
A15-9a Cuffed Hem w/ 2 Tacks - Hem Tape & Blindstitch (Inseam & Outseam)
Outside Garment
Seam
CUFF
Stitch-tackat Seams
(under cuff)
Inside Garment
Seam
Hem Tape & Blindstitch(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)
Hem Tape
& Blindstitch
A15-9b Cuffed Hem w/ 2 Tacks - Overedge & Blindstitch
(Inseam & Outseam)
Outside Garment
Se
am
CUFF
Stitch-tackat Seams
(under cuff)
Overedge& Blindstitch
Overedge Finish & Blindstitch(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)
Inside Garment
Seam
Cuff w/ 4 Tacks (for Wide Leg Opening)
A15-10a Wide Cuffed Hem w/ 4 Tacks - Hem Tape &
Blindstitch (Inseam, Outseam & Leg center)
Hem Tape & Blindstitch(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)
CUFF
Stitch-tack
at Seams,
Frt & BkCreases
(under Cuff)
Outside Garment
Hem Tape
& Blindstitch
Seam
Inside Garment
Seam
Inside GarmentOutside Garment
Se
am
Seam
CUFF
Stitch-tackat Seams,Frt & BkCreases(under Cuff)
A15-10b Wide Cuffed Hem w/ 4 Tacks - Overedge Finish
(Inseam, Outseam & Leg center)
Overedge Finish & Blindstitch(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)
Overedge Finish& Blindstitch
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 15 February 2004
STANDARD LINING REQUIREMENTS:Pattern Requirements
• Lining pattern pieces each 1/8” larger than shell. • Lining Hem Height: 5/8” Full Bendback: Lockstitch
Lining Attachment to Shell:
Inseam
Lining hem:* Finish 3/4" above self hem edge
OR
* Center of shell hem(unless otherwise noted in spec pkg.)
B8-1 Pant Lining- Crochet Thread Tack
1 1/2"Crochet
thread
Lining
Note: See Spec Pkg for Hem finish.
B8-2 Skirt Lining- Crochet Thread Tack
Lining hem:* Finish 3/4" above self hem edge
OR * Center of shell hem(unless otherwise noted in spec pkg.)
1 1/2"Crochetthread
Side Seam
Lining
Note: See Spec Pkg forHem finish.
STANDARD BUTTON SETTING:• Button Placement aligned at Buttonhole outer end.
• Leather and Suede - Stay button for all “functional” buttons.
B8-3 Outside Button Setting
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per spec pkg
Outside Button:
* Set w/ Lockstitch machine* Thread Shank w/ wrap (except Button w/ self shank)
* Logo Buttons set w/ logo in same direction.
Button Setting:* 2-Hole Button: Align 2 holes w/ Buttonhole.
* 4-Hole Button: Set w/ "X" stitch
(unless specified otherwise).
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per spec pkg
B8-4 Inside Button Setting
Inside Button: * 2-Hole Button;* Dyed to Match; Matte Finish
* Set w/ 2 holes aligned w/ buttonhole
* Stitch through inner layer only.
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 16 February 2004
STANDARD INSIDE BUTTONHOLE TYPES & PLACEMENT:
Ann Taylor StoresFor Waistband Height up to 1 ½” wide For Waistband Height wider than 1 ¾”
B8-5 Keyhole Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height up to 1 1/2"
* Waistband / Garment Opening (with or without Inside Extension)* Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband
NOTE: See Spec Pkg for:
B8-6 Keyhole Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height 1 3/4" or wider
Set Buttonhole 3/4" down fromtop edge of Waistband
Set Buttonhole 3/4" down fromtop edge of Waistband
NOTE: See Spec Pkg for
* Waistband / Garment Opening (with or without Inside Extension)* Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
LOFT & Factory StoresFor Waistband Height up to 1 ½” wide For Waistband Height wider than 1 ¾”
* Waistband / Garment Opening (with or without Inside Extension)* Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
NOTE: See Spec Pkg for:
B8-7 Straight Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height up to 1 1/2"
Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband
B8-8 Straight Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height 1 3/4" or wider
Set Buttonhole 3/4" down fromtop edge of Waistband
Set Buttonhole 3/4" down fromtop edge of Waistband
* Waistband / Garment Opening (with or without Inside Extension)* Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
NOTE: See Spec Pkg for
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 17 February 2004
CONCEALED ZIPPER CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS
These standards are to be used in the following product categories where concealed zippers are common:
• Dresses
• Skirts
• Blouses
• Pants
1.
Ann Taylor has pre-approved 2 primary suppliers of concealed zippers, YKK & Coats-Opti. All concealed zippers should besourced from either of these brands.
2. It is preferred that Zippers are ordered to length.
3. Zippers cut to length must be secured and clean finished at the end with lining when used in product without a lining.
4. Shell fabric seam should be reinforced with interlining/stay tape prior to setting zipper.
5. Areas of bulk on the seam should be reduced by one of the following methods :
Medium-Heavyweight fabrics use open seams.
Lightweight fabrics: Open seams or if using closed seams press shell. seam allowance and lining seam allowance in
opposite direction
6. Lining should be set min ¼ from zipper teeth at inside.
7. Zipper tail should be tacked to shell on one side only
8. Clean finished Lining seam should be closed from ¾” below zipper opening at base.
9. Concealed zipper size will be specified by TD.
Suppliers are required to achieve the objective of a concealed zipper that performs its function satisfactorily at all times. If these
standards are at any time found to be either insufficient or impede the achievement of this objective the supplier is expected to raisethis concern to AT TD or QA.
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 18 February 2004
STYLE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (PAGES 18 – 61)
ZIPPER CLOSURES:
*Waistband/ Waist Finish
per Spec Pkg
A4-1a Lapped Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom
A4-2a Kissing Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom
*Waistband/ Waist Finish per Spec Pkg
A4-3a Exposed Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom
*Waistband/ Waist Finish per Spec Pkg
Invisible Zipper: ⇒ “Sealed” at bottom Length: ⇒ 1 1/2” longer than Opening ⇒ Order to length do not cut to length.
*Waistband/ Waist Finish per Spec Pkg
A4-4a Invisible Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom
Seam Line
Bottom ofZipper
Interlining Width:1/4" beyondseam line
Interlining Length: 1" beyond
Zipper Opening
A4-a Invisible Zipper Interlining -Pant / Skirt:
A4-b Invisible Zipper setting w/ Waistband
Inside of Waistband
* Clip seam allowance at 1" from opening edge.
* Open press Waistband seam allowance 1".
Press seam allowance toward Waistband
w/ Zipper to top edge
Zipper Sealed End
Shell -Inside of Garment
Lining
A4-4a Invisible Zipper -Inner Construction; LINED
* Stitch Zipper Tape tail
to one seam allowance
*BIAS Skirts: Do not
stitch Zipper Tail to seam allowance.
Zipper Tail 1" to 1 1/2"
longer than
Zipper Opening
A4-4a Invisible Zipper - Open Seam Inner Construction; UNLINED
Sealed End
* Stitch Zipper Tape tail
to one seam allowance
*BIAS Skirts: Do not
stitch Zipper Tail to
seam allowance.
Inside of Garment
Zipper Tail 1 to 1 1/2"
longer than
Zipper Opening
* Stitch Zipper Tapetail to one seam allowance
*BIAS Skirts: Do notstitch Zipper Tail to
seam allowance.
A4-4a Invisible Zipper - Closed Seam Inner Construction; UNLINED
Sealed End
* Safety Stitch seam
from 2 1/2" belowZipper Tail
* Press to Back orWearer's Left Back
Open Press forZipper Setting
Lockstitch
Zipper Tail 1" to 1 1/2" longer
than Zipper Opening
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 19 February 2004
FLY CLOSURES:Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, with Waistband:
NOTE:
•
Sketch for Fly Constructiononly.
• See Spec Package for:
Inside Waist Finish
Outside Closure
• Zipper Placement:
Top: ¼” maximum down
from seam.Bottom: ¼” maximum up
from Fly stitch.
FlyS
eam Backstitch or
Edgestitch(per Spec Pkg)
1 1/4"
Inside top edge:
1/8" belowoutside top edge
B4-10a Shape Fly Extension w/ Waistband -
2 1/2"
ImaginaryFly seam line 2 1/2"
Inside of Garment
Standard Measurements
* Reinforce Fly Opening
w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum
1/8" above Zipper Head
(w/ zipper fully open)
B4-1 Shaped Fly Extension w/Waistband; Lined & Unlined
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
Inside of Garment
Raw edge
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"
from Front Edge
Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
Wearer's
LeftClean Finish Backstitch
or
Edgestitch
* See Spec Pkg
Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, without Waistband
NOTE:
• Sketch for Fly Construction
only.
• See Spec Package for:
Inside Waist Finish
Outside Closure
• Zipper Placement:
Top: ¼” maximum down
from seam.
Bottom: ¼” maximum up
from Fly stitch.
Inside top edge:
B4-10b Shaped Fly Extension w/o Waistband
Facing
Inside of Garment
Backstitch or Edgestitch* See Spec Pkg
Wearer's
Left
1 1/4"
2 1/2"
FlySeam
Standard Measurments
1/8" belowoutside top edge
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
B4-2 Shaped Fly Extension w/Facing; Lined & Unlined
* NOTE: Waist Facing Finish per Spec Pkg
Clean FinishEdgestitch
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge
Wearer'sLeft
Backstitch or Edgestitch* See Spec Pkg
* Reinforce Fly Openingw/ Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head
(w/ zipper fully open)
Buttonhole Type per Standard
w/ Button Closure
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 20 February 2004
FLY CLOSURES: (continued)
Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Clean Finish at bottom(with Waistband & Waistband Extension options):
NOTE:• Sketch for Fly Construction only.
• See Spec Package for:
Finish at bottom of Fly Extension
Inside Waist Finish
Inside / Outside Waistband Extension
Outside Closure
• Zipper Placement:
Top: ¼” maximum down from seam.
Bottom: ¼” maximum up from Fly
stitch.
1 1/2"
Wide,Topto
Bottom
B4-11a Straight Fly Extension Width
w/ Waist Band
Fly
Seam
B4-5a 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish at bottom
Inside Waistband Extension w/ Straight End
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge
EdgestitchClean Finish
Fold
* Reinforce Fly Opening
w/Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to be maximum
1/8" above Zipper Head
(w/ zipper fully open)
1 1/2" InsideExtension
Clean Finish
B4-5b 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish bottom
Inside Waistband Extension w/Pointed End
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge
Clean Finish Edgestitch
Fold
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
1" Extension to corner
3/4" Point
* Reinforce Fly Openingw/Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum
1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
Clean Finish
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
Fold
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per spec pkg
B4-5c 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish at bottom
No Inside Extension
* Reinforce Fly Opening
w/Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to be maximum
1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
* See Spec Pkg forWaistband Extension(spec, straight vs pointed end)
Clean Finish
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 21 February 2004
FLY CLOSURES: (continued)
Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Overedge Stitch at bottom(with Waistband & Waistband Extension options):
NOTE:• Sketch for Fly Construction only.
• See Spec Package for:
Finish at bottom of Fly Extension
Inside Waist Finish
Inside / Outside Waistband Extension
Outside Closure
• Zipper Placement:
Top: ¼” maximum down from seam.
Bottom: ¼” maximum up from Fly
stitch.
1 1/2"
Wide,
Topto
Bottom
B4-11a Straight Fly Extension Widthw/ Waist Band
Fly
Seam
B4-15a 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge at bottom; Inside Waistband Extension w/Straight End
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge
EdgestitchClean Finish
Fold
* Reinforce Fly Openingw/Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum
1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
1 1/2" Inside
Extension
Overedge Stitch
B4-15b 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge bottomInside Waistband Extension w/Pointed End
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"
from Front Edge
Clean Finish Edgestitch
Fold
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
1" Extension to corner
3/4" Point
* Reinforce Fly Openingw/Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
Overedge Stitch
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
Fold
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per spec pkg
B4-15c 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge at bottom
No Inside Extension
* Reinforce Fly Opening
w/Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head
(w/ zipper fully open)
* See Spec Pkg for
Waistband Extension(spec, straight vs pointed end)
Overedge Stitch
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 22 February 2004
FLY CLOSURES: (continued)
Straight 2-Piece Fly Extension(with Waistband & Waistband Extension options):
NOTE:• Sketch for Fly Construction only.
• See Spec Package for:
Finish at bottom of Fly Extension
Inside Waist Finish
Inside / Outside Waistband Extension
Outside Closure
•
Zipper Placement:
Top: ¼” maximum down from seam.
Bottom: ¼” maximum up from Fly
stitch.
1 1/2"
Wide,
Topto
Bottom
B4-11a Straight Fly Extension Widthw/ Waist Band
Fly
Seam
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
B4-6a 2-Piece Straight Fly Extensionw/Inside Waistband Extension - Straight End
Clean Finish
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"
from Front Edge
Outside of Garment
Seam w/BackstitchOR Edgestitch
Edgestitch
* Reinforce Fly Opening
w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head
(w/ zipper fully open)
1 1/2" Inside
Extension
Inside of Garment
Inside of Garment
Clean Finish
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge
Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
B4-6b 2-Piece Straight Fly Extensionw/Inside Waistband Extension - Point End
* Reinforce Fly Opening w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to be maximum
1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
Seam w/BackstitchorEdgestitch
3/4" Point
1" Extension to corner
* See Spec Pkg for
Waistband Extension
(spec, straight vs pointed end)
* Reinforce Fly Opening
w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum
1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
Seam w/
Backstitchor
Edgestitch
B4-6c 2-Piece Straight Fly Extension
Outside of Garment
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per spec pkg
Inside of Garment
Edgestitch
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"
from Front Edge
w/Outside Waistband Extension
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 23 February 2004
FLY CLOSURES: (continued)
Fly Closure - Straight Fly Extension, without Waistband Ladies Button Fly Closure
NOTE:
•
Sketch for Fly Construction only.
• See Spec Package for:
Finish at bottom of Fly Extension
Inside Waist Finish
Outside Closure
• Zipper Placement:
Top: ¼” maximum down from
seam.
Bottom: ¼” maximum up from Fly
stitch.
1 1/2"
Wide,Top
to
Bottom
B4-11b Straight Fly Extension Width
w/ Facing
NOTE:
Facing Finish
per Spec Pkg.
Fly
Seam
Edgestitch
Outside of Garment Inside of Garment
B4-9 Button Fly Ladies Closure
* Bartack to reinforce
Fly Opening* Upper tack to be maximum
1/8" above Zipper Head
(w/ zipper fully open)
Fold
Waist SeamWaist Seam
W a i s t S e
a m
Ladies Fly Closure & Men’s Fly Closures:
B4-12a Ladies Fly Closure w/ Waistband
Outside of Garment - Closed
NOTE: Waistband w/ or
w/o Topstitching.
See Spec Pkg.
Outside of Garment - Closed
B4-12b Ladies Fly Closure w/ Facing
NOTE: Facing w/ or w/o Topstitching.
See Spec Pkg.
Outside of Garment - Closed
B4-13a Men's Fly Closure w/ Waistband
* Note: All Construction Reverse of Ladies Closure
NOTE: Waistband w/ or
w/o Topstitching.
See Spec Pkg.
NOTE: Facing w/ orw/o Topstitching.See Spec Pkg.
* Note: All Construction Reverse of Ladies Closure
B4-13a Men's Fly Closure w/ Facing
Outside of Garment - Closed
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 24 February 2004
WAISTBAND OPTIONS – CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH:
OpeningEdge
a. Waistband w/
Straight Front Edge
Crackstitch
Open
ingEdge
Crackstitch
b. Waistband w/Straight Outside Extension
B1 Waistband Closed w/ Crackstitch Finish
Outside Views
OpeningE
dge
c. Waistband w/
Pointed Outside Extension
Crackstitch
Clean Finish at Inside Edge
Inside View
O
pe
ningEdge(SeeSpecPkg
)
Clean Finish
Backstitch
Crackstitch
Turn
Back
Edge Seam allowance
Stay Tape
Inner ConstructionTurn Back
Inner Waistband
Outer WB
B1-1a Contour Waistband - Clean Finish @ Inside Edge;
closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)
See Spec Pkg for shape at
end of Waistband
Top
edgeseam
B1-1b Straight Waistband - Clean Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)
O
peningEdge(SeeSpecP
kg)
See Spec Pkg for
Waistband end
Inside View
Seam allowance
Outer WB
Clean Finish Turn
BackEdge
Inner Construction
CrackstitchInner Waistband
Turn Back
Top edge
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 25 February 2004
WAISTBAND – CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH (continued):
Overedge Finish at Inside Edge
Inside View
OpeningEdge(See
Spe
cPkg)
Clean Finish
Backstitch
Crackstitch
OveredgeSeam allowance
Overedge
Inner Construction
Outer WB
B1-2a Contour Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;
closed w/ Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)
Inner Waistband
See Spec Pkg for
Waistband end
Top
edgeseam
Stay Tape
OpeningEdge(SeeSp
ec
Pkg)
B1-2b Straight Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;
closed w/ Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)
Clean Finish
See Spec Pkg forWaistband end
Inside View
Overedge
Inner Waistband Crackstitch
Outer WB
OveredgeSeam allowance
Inner Construction
Top edge
Binding Finish at Inside Edge
Inside View
O
peningEdge(SeeSpecP
kg)
Clean Finish
Backstitch
Crackstitch
3/16" BindingSeam allowance
Binding
Outer WB
Inner Construction
B1-3a Contour Waistband-Binding Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)
Inner Waistband
See Spec Pkg forWaistband end
Top
edgeseam
Stay Tape
O
peningEdge(See
SpecPkg)
B1-3b Straight Waistband-Binding Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)
Clean Finish
Inside View
See Spec Pkg forWaistband end
Binding
Inner Waistband Crackstitch
Outer WB
3/16" BindingSeam allowance
Inner Construction
Top edge
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 26 February 2004
WAISTBAND – CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH (continued):
Waistband set to Lining
Inside View
Openin
gEdge(S
eeSpecPkg)
Backstitch
Crackstitch
Seam allowance
toward body
Seam allowance
Stay Tape
Inner Construction
Seam allowancetoward Lining
Outer WB
Lining
Inner Waistband
Lining
B1-4a Contour Waistband set to Lining; closed w/Crackstitch
See Spec Pkg for
Waistband end
Topedgeseam
OpeningEdge(See
SpecP
kg)
Seam allowance
toward body
B1-4b Straight Waistband set to Lining; closed w/Crackstitch
Lining
See Spec Pkg forWaistband end
Inside View
Inner Waistband
Seam allowancetoward Lining
Seam allowance
Crackstitch
Outer WB
Inner Construction
Lining
Top edge
WAISTBAND OPTIONS – CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH & TOPSTITCHED:• See Spec Package “Design Details” for Topstitching Details (Single or Double Needle).
OpeningEdge
a. Waistband w/Straight Front Edge
Crackstitch
OpeningEdg
e
Crackstitch
b. Waistband w/
Straight Outside Extension
B1-6 Waistband closed w/ Crackstitch & Topstitched
Outside Views
OpeningEdge
c. Waistband w/
Pointed Outside Extension
Crackstitch
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 27 February 2004
WAISTBAND OPTIONS – CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH & TOPSTITCHED:
Clean Finish at Inside Edge
Inside View
OpeningEdg
e
Clean Finish
Crackstitch
TurnBackEdge
Topstitch (see Spec Pkg)
B1-7a Contour Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge;
closed w/ Crackstitch; Topstitched
See Spec Pkg for shape atend of Waistband
Inner Construction
Seam allowance
Inner Waistband
OuterWB
Stay Tape
Raw Edge
Top
Edge
* See Spec Pkg for Closure
Backstitch
OpeningEdge
B1-7b Straight Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/ Crackstitch; Topstitched
Topstitch (see Spec Pkg)
TurnBackEdge
Crackstitch
Clean Finish
See Spec Pkg for shape atend of Waistband
Inside View
Inner Waistband
Seam allowanceOuter WB
Inner Construction
Raw Edge
Top edge
Backstitch
* See Spec Pkg for Closure
Overedge at Inside Edge
OpeningEdge
CleanFinish
Crackstitch
Overedge
Inside ViewTopstitch (see Spec Pkg)
B1-8a Contour Waistband-Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;
closed w/Crackstitch; Topstitched
Overedge
Inner Waistband
Outer WB
Seam allowance
Inner Construction
Stay Tape
See Spec Pkg for shape at
end of Waistband
TopEdge
Backstitch
* See Spec Pkg for Closure
OpeningEdge
B1-8b Straight Waistband-Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/Crackstitch; Topstitched
See Spec Pkg for shape at
end of Waistband
Inside View
CleanFinish
Inner Waistband
Inner Construction
Overedge
Crackstitch
Outer WB
Topstitch (see Spec Pkg)
Seam allowance
Overedge
Top edge
Backstitch
* See Spec Pkg for Closure
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 28 February 2004
WAIST FACING OPTIONS:
OpeningE
dge(SeeSpecPkg.)
Waist Facing
Inside View
Overedge,Bendback & Edgestitch
Backstitch
Inside of Waist Facing
Waist Join Seam
Inner Construction
Bottom Edgeof Facing
Stay Tape
Overedge,
Turnback &Edgestitch
Backstitch
B2-1 Waist Facing w/Overedge, Bendback & Edgestitch Finish
Open
ingEdge(See
SpecPkg
.)
Waist Facing
Clean Finish
Backstitch
Inside View
Inside of Waist Facing
OveredgeFacing Edge
Overedge
Waist JoinSeam
Inner Construction
Stay Tape
B2-2 Waist Facing w/Overedge Finish
Backstitch
Inside View
Ope
ningEdge(SeeSpecP
kg
)
Waist Facing
Clean Finish
Backstitch
3/16" Binding
Stay Tape
Binding @Facing Edge
Inner Construction
Inside of Waist Facing
Facing Seam
Backstitch
B2-3 Waist Facing w/Binding Finish; (w/ or w/o Lining)
OpeningEdge(SeeSpecPkg.)
B2-4 Waist Facing Finished w/ Lining
Lining
Waist Facing
Backstitch
Inside View
PressTowardLining
Facing/Lining
Joining Seam
Waist Join Seam
Inner Construction
Stay Tape
Waist Facing - InsideFacing/LiningJoining Seam
Inside of Lining
Backstitch
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 29 February 2004
OTHER WAIST EDGE FINISHING OPTIONS:
OpeningEdge(SeeSpe
cPkg.)
Fold EdgestitchBinding
Inside View
Inner Construction
Inside of WaistBinding
Waist Join SeamStay Tape
Edgestitch
B2-5a Waist Edge Finished w/ Binding; Edgestitched (w/ or w/o Lining)
Top Edge
TopEdge ofBinding
BindingEdgestitch
Opening
Edge(SeeSpecPkg.)
Fold
Outside View
OpeningEdge(S
eeSpecPkg.)
Fold CrackstitchBinding
Inside View
Inner Construction
Inside of WaistBinding
Waist Join Seam
Stay Tape
Crackstitch
B2-5b Waist Edge Finished w/ Binding; Crackstitched (w/ or w/o Lining)
Top Edge
TopEdge of
Binding
Fold Crackstitch
Open
ingEdge(S
eeSpe
cPkg.)
Outside View
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 30 February 2004
OTHER WAIST EDGE FINISHING OPTIONS (CONTINUED):
Inside View
OpeningEdge
(SeeSpe
cPkg.)
Lining
Topstitch
Top
Edge
Waist JoinSeam
Inside of Garment
Stay Tape
Inside of Lining
Inner Construction
B2-6 Waist Lined to Top Edge
OpeningEdge(S
eeSpec
Pkg)
Clean Finish(set Facing to
Lining w/ Topstitch)
B2-7a Waist Lined to Top Edge + Facing w/ Clean Finished Edge
Lining
Waist FacingBackstitch
Inside View
Waistband Join Seam
(Tape as needed. See Spec Pkg)
WaistFacing
Liningto Waist
EdgeTopstitch (to set facing)
Lining to Waist Edge
Inner Construction
Inside of Waist Band Waist Edge
Joining Seam
Backstitch
O
peningEdge(SeeSpecP
kg
)
B2-7b Waist Lined to Top Edge + Facing w/ Overedge Finish
Backstitch
Lining
Topstitch Facingto Lining
Waist Facing
Inside View
Lining to Waist Edge
Topstitch (to set facing)
Waistband Join Seam
(Tape as needed. See Spec Pkg)
Lining
to WaistEdge
Waist
FacingOveredge
Waist Edge
Joining Seam
Inner Construction
Overedge
Inside of
Waistband
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 31 February 2004
LEATHER WAIST EDGE FINISHING OPTIONS:
OpeningEdge(S
ee
SpecPkg)
B2-8a Leather - Waist Lined to Top Edge + Facing
Topstitch Facing
to LiningRaw Edge
Lining
Waist FacingBackstitch
Inside View
Waist Band Join Seam(Tape as needed. See Spec Pkg)
RawEdge
Waist
Facing
Liningto Waist
Edge
Lining to Waist Edge
Topstitch (to set Facing)
Inner Construction
Inside of
Waist Band
Waist Edge
Joining Seam
OpeningEdge(
Se
eSpecPkg)
B2-8b Leather - No Waistband w/ Facing; Lined to Top Edge
Topstitch Facing
to Lining
Raw
Edge
Lining
FacingBackstitch
Inside View
Facing Raw
Edge
Lining
to WaistEdge
Lining set to Top Edge
Topstitch (to set Facing)
Inner Construction
Waist Top Edge Join Seam
(Stay tape as needed. See Spec Pkg.)
OpeningEdge(Se
eS
pecPkg)
B2-9a Leather - Waistband w/Facing applied to Lining
Topstitch Facing
over Lining
RawEdge
Lining
Facing
Backstitch
Inside View
Waistband Join Seam
(Tape as needed. See Spec Pkg)
Facing
RawEdge
Facing
Lining
w/
OveredgeFinish
Inner Construction
Waist Top Edge Joining Seam;(Tape as needed. See Spec Pkg.)
Lining w/ Overedge finish
OpeningEdge(SeeS
pecPkg)
B2-9b Leather - No Waistband; Facing applied to Lining
Topstitch Facingover Lining
Raw
Edge
Lining
Facing
Backstitch
Inside View
FacingRawEdge
Facing
Lining
w/Overedge
Finish
Inner Construction
Waist Top Edge Joining Seam;(Tape as needed. See Spec Pkg.)
Lining w/ Overedge finish
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 32 February 2004
BELT LOOPS OPTIONS:
(4) Reverse
Bendback
(5) Outside
Stitch-tack
(3) Inside
Stitch-tack
(2) Reverse Bendback (1) Stitch-tack
B3-3b Clean Finish Top & Bottom
Outside Stitch-tack @ Top
(4) ReverseBendback
(5) Inside
Stitch-tack
(3) Inside
Stitch-tack
(2) Reverse Bendback (1) Stitch-tack
B3-3c Clean Finish Top & Bottom
Inside Stitch-tack
B3-6 Set in @ Waistband Join Seam;
Clean Finish @ Top - Inside Stitch-tack
(5) Inside
Stitch-tack (4) ReverseBendback
(3) Stitch-tack
(1) Set intoWaistband
(2) Stitch-tack or Bartack
B3-7b Set in @ Waistband Join Seam;Clean Finish @ Top - Outside Stitch-tack
(5) Outside
Stitch-tack (4) Reverse
Bendback
(3) Stitch-tack
(2) Stitch-tack or Bartack
(1) Set into
Waistband
B3-9 Set in @ Top Edge;Clean Finish @ Bottom - Inside Stitch-tack
(4) Stitch-tack (3) ReverseBendback
(2) Stitch-tack
(1) Set intoWaistband
B3-10b Set in @ Top Edge;Clean Finish @ Bottom - Top Outside Stitch-tack
(4) Bartack
(3) ReverseBendback
(2) Stitch-tack
(1) Set into
Waistband
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 33 February 2004
BELT LOOPS OPTIONS (Continued):
B3-12 Set in Top Edge &Waistband Join Seam
Set into
Waistband
Set into
Waistband Inside Stitch-tack
Press w/ Seam centered
A12-1a Tubular-Belt Loop
A12-1b Tubular-Belt Loop
Seam at edge.
Top side Under side
A12-2 Coverstitched-Belt Loop
A12-3a Folder Finish-Belt Loop
A12-3b Wide Folder Finish - Belt Loop
A12-4a Crochet Belt Loop/Tear Drop (at seam)
Seam
A12-4b Crochet Belt Loop /Tear Drop (at edge)
A12-4c Crochet Belt Loop/
Tear Drop (set in Seam)
A12-4d Crochet Belt OpenLoop(set in Seam)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
WELT POCKET OPTIONS
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 34 February 2004
WELT POCKET OPTIONS:
Welt Pockets - 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts
w/ 1+1 Back Darts
* w / or w/o Bartack
See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
B5-1a Back Welt Pocket -
No Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
* w / or w/o Bartack
See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
B5-1b Back Welt Pocket -
w/ Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
w/ 2+2 Back Darts
B5-1c Back Welt Pocket -no Edgestitch
* w / or w/o Bartack
See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
Note: w/ or w/o Waistband
Outside of Garment
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband
B5-1d Back Welt Pocketw/ Edgestitch
* w / or w/o Bartack
See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Besom Pockets - 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts
w/ 1+1 Back Darts
B5-2a Back Besom Pocket -No Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
* w / or w/o Bartack
See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Note: w/ or w/o Waistband
B5-2b Back Besom Pocket -
w/ Edgestitch
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
* w / or w/o Bartack
See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
w/ 2+2 Back Darts
B5-2c Back Besom Pocket - no Edgestitch
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
B5-2d Back Besom Pocket - w/ Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 35 February 2004
BESOM POCKET OPTIONS:
Welt & Besom Pockets - Front PocketsHorizontal or Angled (See Design Sketch).
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
B5-1e Front - Welt
Outside of Garment
Pocket - No Edgestitch
* w / or w/o Bartack
See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
B5-1f Front Welt
Outside of Garment
Pocket - w/ Edgestitch
B5-2e Front Besom Pocket -no Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
B5-2f Front Besom Pocket -
w/ Edgestitch
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
POCKET BAGS FOR WELT & BESOM POCKET:
Pocket Bag Terms:• Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.
• Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket -
Length:4 1/2" from upperWelt seam
Pkt Bag set in Waist /Waistband stitch
Upper Seam
Facing Applied
onto Pocket Bag
Version 2:Self-Facing
1) Full Self OR
2) w/Applied Self Facing(see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)
Top & Under Pocket Bag:
Pkt Bag set in Waist /Waistband stitch
Length:3 1/2" from upperWelt seam
B5-a Regular Length B5-b Short Length
Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket - Clean Finish
Length:
4 1/2" from upperWelt seam
Pkt Bag set in Waist /
Waistband stitch
Upper Seam
Facing Applied onto
Pocket Bag
Version 2:
Self-Facing
1) Full Self Pocket Bag
OR 2) w/Applied Self Facing(see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)
Top & Under Pocket Bag:
Fold
* Clean finish* Seam allowance
enclosed
Backtackcorner
Backtackcorner
Fold
* Clean finish* Seam allowance
enclosed
Pkt Bag set in Waist /Waistband stitch
Length:3 1/2" from upper
Welt seam
B5-d Regular Length B5-e Short Length
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 36 February 2004
BESOM & WELT POCKET OPTIONS:
Vertical or Angled Besom & Welt Pockets
Outside of Garment
B5-3a Vertical Besom Pocket - no Edgestitch
Seam
w/ or w/o Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband
S
eam
Outside of Garment
B5-3b Vertical Besom Pocket - w/ Edgestitch
w/ or w/o Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband
w/ or w/o Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
B5-3c Vertical Welt Pocket - no Edgestitch
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
Seam
Outside of Garment
w/ or w/o Bartack
See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
B5-3d Vertical Welt Pocket - w/ Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
S
eam
Pocket Bag Terms:
• Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.
• Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
Vertical Welt & Besom Pocket - Inside of Garment
Seam
Inside of Garment
Waist Edge
1) Full Self OR
2) w/Applied Self Facing
(see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)
SetFacing
ontoBag
Top & Under Pocket Bag:
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
“O S A ” OC O O S
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 37 February 2004
“ON SEAM” POCKET OPTIONS:
Vertical “On Seam” PocketsPocket Bag Terms:
•
Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.• Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
Inside Stitch-tack
Seam
B5-4a Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - No Topstitch @ Opening w/ Inside Stitch-tack
Outside of Garmentw/ inside Stitch-tack
Seam
Inside of Garment
See Spec Pkg forPocket Facing type.
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband Waist Edge
Inside Stitch-tack
Seam
Outside of Garment w/ Bartacks
Bartack
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
Bartack
See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Facing type.
Seam
Inside of Garment
Waist Edge
B5-4a Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - No Topstitch @ Opening
w/ Bartack
See Spec Pkg forPocket Facing type.
Inside Stitch-tack
Seam
Sea
m
Inside Stitch-tack
B5-4b Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - Topstitch @ Opening w/ Inside Stitch-tack
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband
Outside of Garment
w/ inside Stitch-tack
Waist Edge
Inside of Garment
* Topstitch Opening
* See Design Detail
Sketch for spacing.
Seam
Outside of Garment
w/ Bartacks
Bartack
Note: w/ or w/o
Waistband
Bartack See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Facing type.
Se
a m
Inside of Garment
Waist Edge
B5-4b Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - Topstitch @ Opening w/ Bartack
* Topstitch Opening* See Design Detail
Sketch for spacing.
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 38 February 2004
“ON SEAM” POCKET OPTIONS:
Vertical “On Seam” Pocket Facings
Backstitch@OpeningEdge
SelfFacing
Seam
Seam
Inside of Garment
B5-5a Vertical Onseam Pocket w/ Applied Facing;
Under Pocket bag
SelfFacing
Seam
Top Pocket bag
Facing applied onto Pocket BagStitch-tack or Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch.
Waist Edge
Pocket Bag Terms:
• Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.
• Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
Stitch-tack or Bartack
See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch.
Seam
B5-5b Vertical Onseam Pocket w/ Self Extended Facing
Top & Under
Facings
extend from
Front & Back
Inside of Garment
Stitch-tack or
Bartack 1/2" down
from Waist seam
Waist Edge
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
“ON SEAM” POCKET OPTIONS:
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 39 February 2004
Horizontal / Angled “On Seam” Pockets
Pocket Bag Terms:
• Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.
•
Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
B5-4c Horizontal / Angled "On Seam" Pocket -
No Topstitch @ Opening
See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Facing type.
Seam
Inside of Garment
Stitch-tack or Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail Sketch.
Pocket Opening
Backstitch along inside edge
Poc k eting
Top Pocket Bag: 1 Piece self or pocketing fabric. See Spec Pkg Trim pg.
Under Pocket Bag - Inside of Garment
B5-6a On-Seam Pocket Bag - Applied Facing -for Horizontal / Angled Pocket
Pocketing
Under Pocket Bag
On-Seam Pocket seam
Self-Applied
Facing
Clean Finish or Overedge
"Face" side ofUnder Pocket Bag
B5-4d Horizontal / Angled "On Seam" Pocket -Topstitch @ Opening
Pocket Opening
Stitch-tack or Bartack
See Spec Pkg - Detail Sketch.
See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Facing type.
Seam
Inside of Garment
* EdgestitchOR
* Backstitch inside edge & Topstitch
** See Spec pkg
Pocket Bag: Self or pocketing fabric.
See Spec Pkg Trim pg.
B5-6b On-Seam Pocket Bag - 1 Piece Top & Under
for Horizontal / Angled Pocket
Pocket Bag
Inside of Garment
Seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS:
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 40 February 2004
QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS:
Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
Inside Stitch-tack
1/2" up
Inside Stitch-tack
1/2" down
B5-8a Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistbandw/ Inside Stitch-tack
Waistband
Outside of Garment
Pocket Opening -w/ or w/o Topstitching.
See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
B5-8b Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband w/ Bartack
Bartack
See Spec Pkg -
Detail sketch
Outside of Garment
Pocket Opening -w/ or w/o Topstitching.
See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
Waistband
Pocket Bag Terms:
• Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.
• Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
B5-8c Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband -Straight Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam
SideSeam
Waistband
Under Pocket
Liningor
Pocketing fabric
Liningor
Pocketing fabric
Self-Quarter Top Piece;
applied onto Pocket Bag
SideSe
am
Pocket Bag
set into Waist Seam
Self Under Pocket Bag
SideSe
am
SideSe
am
LiningorPocketing fabric
Waistband
Under Pocket
B5-8d Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ Waistband -
Self Under Pocket Bag; Open Pressed Side Seam
See Spec Pkg for TopPocket Bag fabrication
Pocket Bag
set into Waist seam
Under Pocket
B5-8e Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ Waistband -
Shaped Self Facing; w/ Open Pressed Side Seam
Liningor
Pocketing fabric
Waistband
Side
Seam
Pocket Bagset into Waist seam
Lining
or
Pocketing fabric
Self-Quarter Top Piece;
applied onto Pocket Bag
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS:
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 41 February 2004
Quarter Top Pocket w/ NO Waistband* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
B5-9a Quarter Top Pocket - No Waistband
w/inside Stitch-tack
Waist Top Edge
SideSeam
Outside of Garment
Inside Stitch-tack1/2" up
Inside Stitch-tack1/2" down Pocket Opening -
w/ or w/o Topstitching.See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
B5-9b Quarter Top Pocket - No Waistband
w/ Bartack
SideSe
am
Outside of Garment
Waist Top Edge
Pocket Opening -
w/ or w/o Topstitching.
See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
Bartack
See Spec Pkg -Detail sketch
Pocket Bag Terms:• Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.
• Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
B5-9c Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband -Straight Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam
Self-Quarter Top Piece;applied onto Pocket Bag
SideSeam
Liningor
Pocketing fabric
SideSeam
Liningor
Pocketing fabric
Waist Facing
Under Pocket Pocket Bag to Top edge
B5-9d Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband -
Self Under Pocket Bag; Open Pressed Seam
Self Under Pocket Bag
SideSeam
Under Pocket
See Spec Pkg for TopPocket Bag fabrication
Waistband
Pocket Bag toTop edge
SideSeam
LiningorPocketing fabric
LiningorPocketing fabric
SideSea
m
Waist Facing
Self-Quarter Top Piece;
applied onto Pocket Bag
LiningorPocketing fabric
Under Pocket Pocket Bag to Top edge
B5-9e Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband - Shaped Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS:
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 42 February 2004
QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS:
L-Shape* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
Outside of Garment
B5-11a L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing -No Topstitch
SideSeam
Inside Seam
Waist Seam
B5-11b L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing -Single Needle Topstitch
Single
Topstitch;See Spec Pkg -
Detail sketch
SideSeam
w/ or w/o
Bartack;
See Spec Pkg -
Detail sketch
Outside of Garment
Inside SeamWaist Seam
B5-11c L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing -Double Needle Topstitch
Dbl Needle TopstitchSee Spec Pkg -
Detail sketch
SideSeam
w/ or w/o
Bartack;
See Spec Pkg -Detail sketch
Outside of Garment
Seam or StitchedthroughWaist Seam
Pocket Bag Terms:
•
Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.• Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
SelfApplied
to PocketBag
SideSea
m
SideSeam
Facing
PocketingTop Pocket Bag
SideSeam
Pocketing
Under Pocket Bag
Pocket Bags - Inner View
Under Pocket Bag
Reinforcementstitch at PocketOpening
B5-11 L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing - Inside of Garment
Backstitch
(except w/ Dbl Ndl Topstitch)
Inside Seam
Pocket Bag - Inside of Garment
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS:
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 43 February 2004
Q
Quarter Top Pocket w/ Self Pocket Bag
Topstitch through all Layers;
See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
B5-10 Quarter Top Pocket - Self Pkt Bag; Set to Shell
Outside of Garment
Si
deSeam
Inside of Garment
Topstitch
through allLayers
Under
Pocket Bag
Full Bendbackw/ Topstitch
Waist Seam Waist Seam
Scoop Pocket • Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.
• See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitching. • Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.B5-13 Scoop Pocket w/ Facing
w/ or w/o
Topstitch
SideSeam
Outside of Garment
Waist Seam
SideSeam
Inside of Garment
Self Applied
to Pocket Bag
Applied to
Pocketing
Top Pocket Bag
SideSeam
Facing
Inner Pocket View of Pocket Bag (before Bag is seamed)
Backstitch
B5-13 Scoop Pocket w/ Facing - Inner Construction
Waist Seam
Under Pocket Bag
Top Pocket Bag
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
QUARTER TOP POCKET BAG OPTIONS:
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 44 February 2004
Q
Pocket Bag Terms & Dimensions:• Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.
• Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
Sid
eSeam
Under Pocket
Waist Seam
4 3/4"
8 1/2"
Pocket Bag Length x Width - Seam to Seam
6 1/2"
B5-14a Regular Quarter Top Pocket Bag - w/ Waistband
SideSeam
6 1/2"
B5-14b Quarter Top Pocket Bag - NO Waistband
Pocket Bag Length x Width - Seam to Seam
4 3/4"
Under Pocket
8 1/2" from
Waistline position
B5-14c Short Pocket Bag
SideSeam
Under Pocket
Pocket Bag Length x Width - Seam to Seam
4 1/2"
5 1/2"
6 1/2"
Waist Seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
PATCH POCKET OPTIONS:* Note: See Spec Pkg for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 45 February 2004
Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail
B5-15a Patch Pocket-Bluff Setting; w/o Topstitch -Lined or Unlined
Raw edgew/ or w/o
Staystitch
Seamed
inside
B5-15b Patch Pocket-Bluff Setting; w/ Topstitch - Lined or Unlined
Raw edge
w/ or w/o
Staystitch
Seamed
inside
SingleBendback
Rawedge
w/ or w/oOveredge
Set Pocket w/ Topstitch
B5-16 Patch Pocket-Topstitched Setting
B5-17 Patch Pocket Lined to Top Edge
Lined to Top edge Set Pocket w/ Topstitch
Lining
PATCH POCKET BENDBACK FACING OPTIONS:
Outside View Inside View
1" Bendback Facing
Lining
B5-18a Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facing -Lined
Outside View
1" Bendback Facing
Inside View
Overedge &Topstitched
B5-18b Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facingw/ Overedge Finish & Topstitched - Unlined
1" Bendback Facing
Inside View
Clean Finish(bendback Facing
seam allowance)
& Topstitched
Outside View
B5-18c Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facingw/ Clean Finish & Topstitched - Unlined
B5-18d Patch Pocket w/Full Bendback Facing
- Unlined
Outside View
Clean Finish& Topstitched
Full Bendback Facing;See Spec pkgfor Topstitch detail.
Inside View
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
PATCH POCKET ATTACHED FACING OPTIONS:• Note: See Spec Pkg for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 46 February 2004
• Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
Outside View Inside View
Lining
Backstitch (if not Topstitched)
B5-19a Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing -Lined
See Spec Pkgfor FacingHeight
Outside View Inside View
Overedge &Topstitched
B5-19b Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing;Overedge Finish & Topstitched - Unlined
Backstitch (if not Topstitched)See Spec Pkg
for FacingHeight
Inside View
Clean Finish& Topstitched
Outside View
Backstitch (if not Topstitched)
B5-19c Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing;Clean Finish & Topstitched - Unlined
See Spec Pkgfor FacingHeight
PATCH POCKET REINFORCEMENT OPTIONS:
Triangle Stitch
(See Spec Pkg forPocket Shape)
B5-20a Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner
Rectangle Stitch
B5-20b Patch Pocket -
Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Shape)
Diagnal Stitch
B5-20c Patch Pocket -
Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg forPocket Shape)
Horizontal Stitch
B5-20d Patch Pocket -
Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg forPocket Shape)
Horizontal
Bartack
B5-20e Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg for
Pocket Shape)
PATCH POCKET W/ CURVED OPENING:
Diagonal
Bartack
B5-20f Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg forPocket Shape)
Vertical Bartack
B5-20g Patch Pocket -
Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg forPocket Shape)
Waist Seam
B5-22a Patch Pocket w/ Curved Opening; Self Facing - Lined
Outside of Garment
Self FacingBackstitchif needed
Inside of Pocket (before set)
SideSeam
SideSea
m
Lining
SideSeam
SideSeam
B5-22b Patch Pocket w/ Curved Opening;
Self Facing - Unlined
Inside of Pocket (before set)
Waist Seam
Self Facing
Outside of Garment
Bendback
Finish
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
POCKET FLAP OPTIONS:
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 47 February 2004
Welt Pocket w/ Flap – 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts
* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
w/ 1+1 Back Darts
Flap set in upper
Welt seam
B6-1a Welt Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch
Underflap:
Bias
* w / or w/o Bartack
See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
Backstitch
Waist Seam
Outside of Garment
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
B6-1b Welt Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch
Flap set in upper
Welt seam
Underflap:Bias
See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail
Waist Seam
w/ 2+2 Back Darts
Underflap:
Bias
* w / or w/o Bartack
See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Waist Seam
Outside of Garment
Flap set in upper
Welt seam
Backstitch
B6-1c Welt Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch
B6-1d Welt Pocket w/ Flap -
w/ Topstitch
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
Flap set in upperWelt seam
See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail
Waist Seam
Underflap:Bias
Besom Pocket w/ Flap – 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts
* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
w/ 1+1 Back Darts
Waist Seam
Outside of Garment
B6-2a Besom Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch
BackstitchUnder Flap:Bias
Flap set inBesom upperSeam * w / or w/o
Bartack
See spec pkg -Detail Sketch
B6-2b Besom Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch
See Spec Pkg for
Topstitch detail
* w / or w/o
Bartack See spec pkg -
Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
Under Flap:Bias
Flap set inBesom upperSeam
Waist Seam
w/ 2+2 Back Darts
Waist Seam
Outside of Garment
B6-2c Besom Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch
BackstitchUnder Flap:Bias
Flap set inBesom upper
Seam * w / or w/o
Bartack
See spec pkg -Detail Sketch
B6-2d Besom Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch
See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail
* w / or w/oBartack
See spec pkg -Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
Under Flap:Bias
Flap set inBesom upperSeam
Waist Seam
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
POCKET FLAP OPTIONS:
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 49 February 2004
Patch Pocket w/ Flap* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
B6-3 Bluff Patch Pocket w/Flap -No Topstitch at Edge
Raw edge
enclosed
Under Flap:Bias
1/4" Topstitch w/ raw edge enclosed
& Stitch-tack at ends
1/4" Topstitch w/ raw edge enclosed & Stitch-tack at ends
* See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail
B6-4a Patch Pocket w/ Flap - Topstitched
Stitch-tack at Flap corners
Under Flap:Bias
Raw Edge
Enclosed
B6-4b Patch Pocket w/ Flap - Topstitched
Bartack at Flap corners
Raw EdgeEnclosed
* See Spec Pkg for
Topstitch detail
1/4" Topstitch w/ raw edge enclosed
& Bartack at endsUnder Flap:
Bias
Under Flap – Bias Cut
Bias
Underflap:*Cut smaller than outer flap.
*Cut on bias.
B6-5 Under Flap -
Pattern & Cutting Direction
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
POCKETS W/ BUTTON CLOSURE - OPTIONS:
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 50 February 2004
Welt & Besom Pocket w/ Button Closure• Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
B7-1a Welt Pocket w/ Button
& Vertical Buttonhole
Outside of Garment
* Welt w/ or w/oEdgestitch / Bartack
See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
B7-1b Welt Pocket w/ Button& Horizontal Buttonhole
Outside of Garment
* Welt w/ or w/o
Edgestitch / Bartack See Spec Pkg -
Detail sketch
B7-2a Besom Pocket w/ Button
& Horizontal Buttonhole
Outside of Garment
* Besom w/ or w/o
Topstitch / Bartack
See Spec Pkg -
Detail sketch
B7-2b Besom Pocket w/
Button & Loop Closure
Outside of Garment
* Besom w/ or w/o
Edgestitch / Bartack
* See Spec Pkg -
Detail sketch
Welt & Besom w/ Flap & Button Closure
B7-3a Besom Pocket w/ Vertical Wide Flap & Button Closure
Wide Flap w/VerticalButton Hole
* w/ or without Topstitching* See Spec Pkg Design Details
B7-3b Besom Pocket w/Narrow Flap & Button Closure
Narrow Flapw/ HorizontalButton Hole
* w/ or without Topstitching* See Spec Pkg Design Details
B7-3c Welt Pocket w/ Flap & Button Closure
Wide Flap w/
VerticalButton Hole
* w/ or without Topstitching
* See Spec Pkg Design Details
Narrow Flap
w/ HorizontalButton Hole
B7-3d Welt Pocket w/Narrow Flap & Button Closure
* w/ or without Topstitching* See Spec Pkg Design Details
Patch Pocket w/ Button Closure
B7-4a Patch Pocket w/VerticalButtonhole & Button Closure
See spec pkg for* Patch Pocket Type
* Topstitch Detail* Bartack
B7-4b Patch Pocket w/Horiztonal Buttonhole & Button Closure
See spec pkg for
* Patch Pocket Type * Topstitch Detail
* Bartack
See spec pkg for
* Patch Pocket Type * Topstitch Detail
* Bartack
B7-5a Patch Pocket w/Flap Vertical Buttonhole &
Button Closure
B7-5b Patch Pocket w/Flap HoriztonalButtonhole &
Button Closure
See spec pkg for* Patch Pocket Type
* Topstitch Detail
* Bartack
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
VENTS:
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 55 February 2004
A13-6 Vent-Unlined; Lapped; Topstitched
Inside GarmentOutside Garment
VentE
dge
Seam
With or without Tack (see Spec Pkg.)
Topstitch
Full Dbl Bendback
Seam
*See spec pkg for Topstitching & Hem type
A13-7 Vent-Lined-Open; Blocked Hem; Topstitched
Inside GarmentOutside Garment
SeamTopstitch
Lining
Dbl Bendback w/Topstitch
Seam
Backstitch
VentEdge
Open Bottom
Blocked Hem
A13-8 Vent-Lined-Open; Blocked Hem; No Topstitch
Inside GarmentOutside Garment
CtrBackSeam
Lining
Dbl Bendback w/Topstitch
CtrBackSeam
Backstitch
VentEdge
Open Bottom
Blocked Hem
Top of Vent
VENT & SLIT “X” TACK:
NOTE: Sketch is for “X” Tack only. See Spec pkg. for Vent style details.
A14 Slit-"X" Tack
* No tack if fabricwill be damaged
from tack.
Top of Slit
for Shipping
Outside Garment
Seam
A13-11 Vent/ "X" Tack
for Shipping
Vent
Edge
"X" Tack for Shipping
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
BINDING & PIPING FINISHES:
A9 3 Piped Edge w/ or w/o Filler
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 56 February 2004
Folded
A6-1 Full Clean Finish
w/Edgestitch
A9-3 Piped Edge w/ or w/o Filler
Outside of Garment
Inside ofGarment
Backstitch
Edge finished w/Facing OR Lining
Piping w/ or w/o Filler
Note:
No Backstitch ifedge is Topstitched
BUTTONHOLES:
A10-4a Bound Buttonhole - Clean Finish
Topside Underside(looks same as Topside)
Underside
(Straight Buttonhole)Topside
A10-4b Bound Buttonhole -Backed w/ Machine Buttonhole
A10-4c Bound Buttonhole - Edgestitched
Topside Underside(looks same as Topside)
A10-4d Bound Buttonhole - Leather
Topside Underside
A10-1 Keyhole Buttonhole w/Bartack at end
Bartack
w/ or w/o Gimp Filler(* See Spec pkg Trim)
A10-2 Keyhole Buttonhole
w/ Fishtail End
w/ or w/o Gimp(* See Spec pkg Trim)
A10-3 Regular/Straight
Buttonhole
A10-5a On-Seam Buttonhole - Horizontal
Seam
A10-5b On-Seam Buttonhole -Vertical
Seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
ZIPPER TERMS:Note: See Specification Pkg. for “Right” or “Left” Zipper Pull. Zipper illustrations are generic.
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 57 February 2004
(A) Closed end -
Normal type
(C) 2 Pulls - 2 Ended
Closed
(B) 2 - Ended
Closed
(D) 2 Pulls -
2 Open Ends
(D) 1 Pull
Open End
Common Zipper Types
(A) Closed end -Invisible type
SealedEnd
Sealedat Top
Tape Ends
Stringer
Cord
Bead
Bottom Stop
Slider
Chain
Pull
Teeth
Top Stops
Retainer
Separable Pin
Retainer Pin
Opened Tape Closed
Basic Zipper Construction Terms
Tape
Width
Chain
Width
Length ofFastener
Zipper Dimension Terms
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
HOOK & EYE TYPES:
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A11-1a Hook & Loop Eye
A11-1b Hook &
Straight Eye
A11-1c Hook & Loop
Hook & Loop Eye Setting at inside top of zipper Hook & Thread Loop Setting at inside top of zipper
A11-1a Setting Hook & Loop Eye
Set Zipper
w/Zipper Slide edge1/4" down from
finished top edge
at Inside Top of Zipper
A11-1c Setting Hook & Thread Loop
Set Zipper
w/Zipper Slide edge1/4" down from
finished top edge
at Inside Top of Zipper
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
LOOP & FROG CLOSURES:
A10 6 C h B L
A10-7a Button Loop -
A10-7b Button Loop -
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 59 February 2004
A10-6a Crochet Button Loop -Kissing Setting
A10-6b Crochet Button Loop - Open Setting
A10-7a Button Loop - Kissing Setting
A10-7b Button Loop -Open Setting
A10-7c Button Loop -Closed Setting
Top Side
Under side of Loop
A10-8 Folder Button Loop
A10-9 Decorative / Frog Closure
OTHER CLOSURES:
A11-2a Hook & Bara. Machine Set
* Note: Reinforce w/
Self or Interlining
A11-2b Hook & Bar
b. Hand Set
A11-3 Hook & Loop Tape
Hook Tape Loop Tape
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines
DECORATIVE STITCHES (cont.):
DST-7 Saddle Stitch* O d tit h
DST-8 Blanket Stitch
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Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 61 February 2004
* Stitch Length and Spacingare equal size.
* See Spec Pkg for Stitch per Inch (SPI).
Saddle Stitch - Stitch through all layers.
* Overedge stitch.* See Spec Pkg for specific Stitches per Inch (SPI) and Stitch Width.
Outside Garment
Blanket Stitch
Inside Garment
Step 2 - Topside Step 2 - Underside
Seam at top of tuck
Double Needle w/ Narrow Zig-Zag at Underside * closes fold * creates tuck
* See Spec Pkgfor Tuck Height
Seam at top of tuck
Step 1- Topside Step 1 - Underside
DTS-9 Air Tucking