complete step by step ak building

7/29/2019 Complete Step by Step AK Building

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Complete step by step directions to build an AK type rifle


I started building AK type rifles about a year ago. At that time I had been doing gunsmithing for about 25 years and had a lot of experience with most

types of sporting and military firearms. The AK was new to me in as much as I had never tried to build one from the ground up and wanted to see what it

would take. I started surfing the web and found many sites that had some info but not all of it in one place. I've been posting a photo record of my

progress and decided to put together an informational directory that will take the builder from a pile of parts to a finished rifle using a minimum of tools

and basic skills. Each section will start with an overview of what will be done and what tools will be needed. For the most part I will show you how to

make any special tools or how to adapt common tools to do the job. I hope that some of you will find the following information useful. Thank you forviewing my site.

Section One: Choosing your receiver

You have three basic choices in receivers:

100% finished receiver

These are just what the name implies, 100% finished ready to fit and build. They are available for most common AK rifles and range in price fromhttp://gunsgutsandgod.com/SBS%20tutorial.htm (1 of 70)1/21/2007 9:17:41 AM


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$50.00 to $100.00 plus. The advantages to this receiver are that you do not have to do any of the build steps. All of the holes and openings are done and

the lower rails and center support are installed. In most cases the receiver has been fully heat treated. The down side is the cost. If you are on a budget

you can expect to spend an additional $40.00 plus for delivery and FFL transfer. You will want to check the chat boards for reviews of the different 100%

receivers to see what issues that other builders may have had.

80% receiver blank

The name is a little misleading. This is basically a piece of 4130 sheet steel bent into the shape of an AK receiver and will usually come with a bondabletemplate to do the finishing. Again, these are available from many sources for around $25.00 to $35.00 plus shipping. The advantages to this type of

receiver are that you can have it delivered directly to your home since it is not considered a firearm and the cost. The downside is that you will need a

little skill and know-how to finish it as well as some extra tools. It is best to order these from a supplier that can also include the lower rails.

Bendable flat

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That is just what this is, a flat piece of 4130 sheet steel that has had the holes and openings laser cut and the dimples stamped in. Again they can be

purchased from many sources for $13.00 on up and usually come with the lower rails. The advantages are that all of the "Hard" work has been done and

the cost. The downside is that you will need access to a bending jig and press to properly form the receiver. Bending jigs are available for around $150.00

on up or can be rented through some chat boards. If you plan to make several receivers of this type it may be cost effective to buy a bending jig and then

sell it once your finished. You can usually recoup most of your investment this way.

You will also need an assortment of US made parts to be in compliance with BATF regulations. The rule of thumb I use is six US parts plus the receiver.

This will allow you to use the original muzzle brake and still be legal. This may sound like a lot, but the FCG counts as three parts by it's self and if youadd a pistol grip, gas piston and hand guard your there. There are other items you can use such as a US made muzzle brake or butt stock to round out the

parts count.

Last but not least you will need rivets or screws to do the assembly. The build I am outlining is for rivet construction. You can buy the correct rivet sets

from several suppliers and the best place to locate them is through the chat boards.

Section 2: Receiver finishing

If you went with the 100% receiver proceed to "Demilling the parts kit". If you bought the bendable flat follow the directions that came with the bending

jig and proceed to the next section. If you opted for the 80% receive blank here are some hints on how to finish it.

You will need the following tools: You will need the following materials:http://gunsgutsandgod.com/SBS%20tutorial.htm (3 of 70)1/21/2007 9:17:41 AM


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Drill press with vise 3 pieces of 6.500" x 1" x .125" steel stock

Dremel type tool with cut off discs 1 piece of 6.500" x 1" x .750" steel stock

Small hand files (Flat and round) 2 pieces of 5" x 1" x .250" steel stock

Drill bits: .375" .200" .156" .276" .250" 1 piece of 8" x .375" x .750" steel stock

Piece of wood 12" long by 1.25" wide and 2" tall 1 2" long .250" bolt with a nut

Small center punch and hammer

Caliper

Vise grip pliers

"C" clamp

Bench vise

The first thing to do is bond the template to the receiver blank (If it is not already done). to ensure that the template is straight and centered I fold it first

on the bottom form lines. I secure the in place with a piece of tape at the front and back and then use a spray adhesive to bond the template in place.



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Next you will want to form the piece of wood into a mandrel for drilling and cutting the receiver.



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Now you will want to double check the placement of all of the side holes on both sides of the receiver.



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The correct hole placement is very important and I highly recommend that you check and remark any holes that are not perfect. To measure the

placement go from the top of the rail to the center of the hole being sure to add the thickness of the receiver to the total. The correct measurements are as

follows:

Safety selector .550"

Trigger pin 1.380"

Hammer pin 1.100"

Center support .750"

If your receiver is .040" thick you would add that to each measurement for the correct placement. Once you have all of the holes center punched you can

drill them out. Drill the holes from each side, do not try to drill through as this may cause misalignment.

Hole diameters:

Right side Left side

Selector large .375" .200"



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Selector small .200" None

Trigger .200" .276"

Hammer .200" .276"

Center support .200" .200"

Next you will want to do the bottom cutouts. For the mag well drill the 6 .250" corners first and then use the Dremel with cutoff wheels to connect them.

Be sure to cut UNDERSIZE and file to fit later. The trigger opening can be done as either a single or double hook style depending on which one you are

using. Use the .156" drill to do the corners and Dremel cut the opening. Do the same with the pistol grip nut opening. Do not do the bottom rivet holes

at this time.

This is what it should look like at this time. This is one of the Yugo underfold receivers I have done.

Now you get to make your fist custom tool. The AK receiver has mag centering dimples on both sides and a detent in the bottom front that need to be

pressed in. Using the listed materials here is how to make these jigs. First you will need to drill a .250" hole through each of the .125", .250" and

the .750" pieces of steel stock. The hole needs to be .625" in from the end and centered at .500". Two of the .125" parts will now need to have the punchguide slot formed. This is done by drilling 2 .375" holes on the center line. One at 2.1875" from the back and one at 1.8075". Then you can use the

Dremel and a file to create the top and bottom flats. I find it is easiest to vise grip the parts together and do them both at once to ensure that they match.


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The .250" parts will need to have the bottom outside edge beveled to fit into the corner of the receiver.


C l t t b t di ti t b ild AK t ifl


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Now you will need to make the dimple punch. Using some of the .375" x .750" steel stock, Shape it with the file to look like the one below. Be sure to

rebate the punch end to compensate for the thickness of the receiver.




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When you assemble the jig on the receiver you will place one .250" on one side, the .750" part in the middle, The .125" part without the dimple hole next

and one of the .125" parts with the dimple hole last. This is then slid into the receiver, The second .125" part with the dimple hole is then place on the

outside and the assembly is bolted together by lining it up on the hammer pin hole.




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Lock the assembly in place with a "C" clamp and use the anvil part of the bench vise to form the dimples with a hammer and ram. I use a piece of scrap

wood as a wedge to hold the inside parts firm against the receiver.




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If you rotate the punch several times for each dimple it will turn out more symmetrical. Once you have done one side reverse the jig and do the other side.

Now you will do the front mag well detent using the two .250" parts and the .750" part. Set up the jig with the two .250" parts against the inside walls of

the receiver and the .750" part in the middle about .375" in front of the mag well opening. You can use any type of scrap metal as the punch to make this

detent. I modified a bolt head to do this on receiver blanks.




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p p y p yp

At this point you will want to remove the template from the receiver. I use kerosene but most any thinner will work.

Section 3: Heat treat

80% receiver blanks and bending flats come in a "Softened" state and need to be heat treated for long life and proper function. The ejector on the left

lower rail also needs to be hardened. Since most finishes that you will apply to the completed firearm will require that it be baked at 400 degrees or more

we will only concern ourselves with spot heat treating the FCG holes and the ejector. The hammer and trigger pin holes on both sides of the receiver need

to be hardened due to the amount of stress they receive during the life of the rifle.

You will need the following tools You will need to following materials

MAPP gas torch Sand paper

Pliers Pail of water

Work Gloves

There are two steps to heat treating metal for an AK receiver. The first is to harden it by taking it up to 1500 degrees F and then quenching it. This willmake it very hard but also very brittle. The second step is to temper it by taking the metal up to 800 degrees F and letting it air cool. MAPP gas will heat

the metal to the proper temperatures in a reasonable span of time. The way to gauge the temperature of the metal is by color. When the metal gets to a




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bright glowing orange/yellow it is time to quench it in the pail of water. Sand the treated area to bare metal and reheat it until it is a gray/blue. At this

point set it aside to air cool. Do the ejector (Left lower rail) first to get a feel for the process.




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You will also need to heat treat the hammer and trigger holes (FCG). These are the pivot pin holes located on both sides of the receiver. Heat and quench

each hole and then temper them individually and let them air cool.




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Section 4: Demilling the parts kit

Parts kits usually come with some parts of the original receiver still in place. These need to be removed before the build can begin. In this section we will

cover removing the receiver stubs, the old rivets and the barrel. Whether your doing a screw or rivet build removing the barrel will make it much easier.

You will need the following tools: You will need the following materials:

3 lb hammer Cutting oil




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Set of punches 12mm socket

Vise grip pliers 6" piece of .500" key stock

Bench vise Roll of pennies

Drill press Band Aids

.120" drill bit

.250" end mill or Dremel with cutoff wheels

The first thing you will do is remove the barrel. This will make working with the rest of the parts much easier. Lock the front trunnion into the bench vise

with the left side facing you. Holding a punch that is smaller in diameter than the barrel pin with the vise grips (If you do this the Band Aids may not be

needed) Start to work on the barrel pin. It may take several good blows to get it to move. Once it is out place it in a safe location since you will need it

later.




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Now you can drive the barrel out. But first we need to make another custom tool. Drive the .500" key stock into the 12mm socket. This will be the ram

for removing the barrel. Position the trunnion so that the front lips are on top of the vise jaws and the barrel is free to drop. Have a pillow or other soft

cushion to catch the barrel when it comes out.




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Use the pennies to protect the chamber. Place the ram and start beating. You will hear a loud "Pop" once the barrel starts to move.




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The next step is to remove the old rivet heads. Start by removing the stock from the rear trunnion. If you are using the Dremel method, cut off the head of

each rivet being careful not to cut into the trunnion or trigger guard parts. I have found that using the .250" end mill in my drill press works very quickly

and is more controllable. You can order end mills from many places but I got 10 of them on ebay for $15.00 delivered. I start with the rear trunnion and

use the end mill to remove the rivet heads. Once the heads are removed I pry the receiver stub off.

Next I drill through the rivet with a .120" bit. Go slow and use a lot of cutting oil. Pull out often to clean the hole. If the bit breaks off you can still get the

rivet out but it will take way more pounding. Once the holes are drilled I set the trunnion on edge on the bench vise jaws and use a punch to start the rivet

out. Once it is started lock the rivet in the vise and just twist the trunnion while pulling up.




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Next remove the rivet heads from the front trunnion and pry the stub off. Use a small punch to knock out the rivets.




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Next I lock the trigger guard assembly into the drill vise and remove the rivets from the inside. This allows more room to work and decreases the chance

of damaging the parts. Remove the rivet backs and peel off the old receiver stub.



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29/70 Complete step by step directions to build an AK type rifle


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Jig saw with metal cutting blades 2 8-32 .500" long screws w/nuts

2 12" bar clamps

Bench or angle grinder

Drill bits: .156" 5/16" .375"

Soldering iron

4" "C" clamp

You will start by making several tools that will be needed to do the build. The first one is the front trunnion rivet tool. This is made by modifying the bolt

cutters. You can buy these at most large home stores like Home Depot and Menards or through Harbor Freight for around $10.00. This will usually be

less expensive than buying several taps, bits and a tap handle. You also won't need to deal with broken taps. You will shape the jaws to look like this:




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The lower jaw is ground flat while the upper jaw is shaped to fit into the front trunnion and crush the rivet. Work slowly on the upper jaw to avoid over

heating. If you get it too hot the metal will become brittle and brake during use. It will take a little test fitting to get it just right. You will also need to cut

a piece of the 1" wide x .250" thick steel 1.500" long and drill a 5/16" detent in it. Use the Dremel with a grinding bit to shape it so a rivet head will sit

almost flush in it. This will be the bucking bar for the front rivets.

The next tool is the front trunnion rivet locater. If your receiver already has the trunnion rivet holes drilled skip this tool. Using the .040" scrap fold it into

the shape shown below. Once folded drill a .156" hole as shown. You will want to shorten the rivet shank to .250" and solder it to the hole in the shortarm.

Once the front trunnion is in the 80% receiver the rivet holes will be covered. This little gem will let you accurately place the front rivet holes without a

lot of hassle or "Egging" of the holes to get the to align. When you insert the short arm into the trunnion position the rivet in the hole and the outside hole

will be perfectly lined up.




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Next up is the trigger guard rivet jig and rivet punch. This jig is used as the bucking bar for riveting and to position the trigger guard on the receiver.

Start with the .25" x 1.500" x 6" piece of steel. Mark a center line length wise and drill a .375" hole 1.750" in from each end. Using the jig saw with the

metal cutting blade make two cuts length wise from hole to hole. You will now have a slot 3" long and approximately .375" wide.




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As you can see the trigger guard does not just slip in You will now need to finish the slot with files or the Dremel Square the ends and make the slot


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As you can see the trigger guard does not just slip in. You will now need to finish the slot with files or the Dremel. Square the ends and make the slot

only as wide as is needed for a tight fit. The front of the trigger guard is wider than the rest and will also need slight grooves for the mag release rivet to

slide through.




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This is what you should end up with. The trigger guard fits in snug and dose not shift or wobble when it is fully inserted. Next you will need to mark and

drill/Dremel the rivet head detents. With the trigger guard pressed firmly into the jig mark the center of each of the five rivet holes. Using the 5/16" drill

bit drill a shallow hole for each rivet placement. Using the Dremel with a grinding bit shape each hole to fit the rivet head almost flush.




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This is how the trigger guard riveting jig is placed for use.




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Next you will make the rivet punch. It is very important the ends be square on this part. Using the piece of .500" steel round stock make a notch .125"

deep and 1" high staring .625" up from one end. On the opposite end drill a shallow hole in the center with the 5/16" bit and shape it to fit a rivet head.

This will be used to set the trigger guard, rear trunnion and center support rivets.




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Now for the last custom jig This is for setting the rear trunnion and center support rivets Using the 250" x 1 500" x 8" steel stock place the rear trunnion


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Now for the last custom jig. This is for setting the rear trunnion and center support rivets. Using the .250 x 1.500 x 8 steel stock place the rear trunnion

on it and mark placement of the rivet detents. Drill them with the 5/16" bit and shape with the Dremel. Again you want the rivet head about 1/32" above

the jig.




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The next step is to rivet the trigger guard/mag catch in place. If you are doing the 80% receiver this is where you will need to drill the trigger guard rivet

holes. Using the vise grip pliers position the spacer plate at the mag well opening and lock it in place. Drill the rivet holes with the .156" bit.




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Now you will start the riveting process. Attach the trigger guard/mag catch and the mag spacer with the two 8-32 screws and nuts. One screw in the front

and the other in the back on the other side. This will keep the assembly tight and straight during the riveting process.




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Next insert rivets in the other two holes and put on the trigger guard jig. Place it in the bench vise and snug it against the trigger guard. Use a piece

of .250" scrap under the rear rivet hole (Do not use the rivet yet.) and clamp the receiver to the jig. Do not over tighten as this may deform the receiver.




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Use the rivet punch as shown to crush the rivets. I use a standard 22 oz framing hammer to do this. You are not trying to destroy the rivet. Go slow

and light until you get a feel for the process. Once you have the first two rivets set remove the screws and set the other two. When this is done set the

rear rivet and your done.




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Now to fit and rivet the front trunnion. You will need to file or trim the front rails to fit the grooves in the trunnion. Go slow. You can take more off but


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it's hard to add metal back on. Use the trunnion as a guide to mark how far back to file/trim. Once this is done you will adjust the trunnion position.

The sides of the receiver need to set flat against the trunnion. The image on the left still needs fitting. On the right the rails have been trimmed to the

proper depth and the trunnion is flush with the front of the receiver.




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With the trunnion in place insert and mag. It should fit tight with little or no slop front to back. With the trunnion aligned with the front of the receiver

check rivet hole alignment (On 100% or bent flats). In the image on the right you can see that the rivet holes do not line up. They will need to be "Egged"

with a file or Dremel. Lock the trunnion in place with a "C" clamp and make the corrections if necessary.




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On an 80% receiver blank use the rivet hole locator tool to mark and drill the holes. Lock the trunnion in the receiver with a "C" clamp and mark the

holes on one side. Using the .156" bit drill the holes through both sides. This will ensure correct location.

Now to rivet the trunnion in place. Insert a rivet into one of the holes and lock it into a vise with the bucking bar as shown. Use the bolt cutter/rivet tool to

crush the rivet. Again go slow until you get a feel for how much pressure it takes.




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On the left you can see a flattened rivet. It does not take all that much effort to crush it. On the right you can see the completed rivets. You will notice that

I did not take enough time to do the rivet head detent in the bucking bar. Each rivet head has a halo. Since I am making each of these tools as I do this

project I have rushed a little. Please learn from my mistakes. This is a defective receiver so it does not matter in this build as I will be taking it down and

redoing it again.




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The rear trunnion is next. In a 100% or bent flat the receiver will already be at the correct length for placement. I do advise to double check to be sure. If


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you are using an 80% blank you will need to check the placement of the trunnion. This is done using the dust cover. place the dust cover on the receiver

with the front edge as shown. Mark the rear of the receiver where the back of the dust cover is resting.

This mark is where the back of the dust cover channel in the rear trunnion should go. You will need to trim the rails to accept the rear trunnion the same

as the front. Once this is done you will need to measure and mark the placement of the rivet holes on one side. Make a test hole with a small bit and insert

the trunnion to see if it matches up. Use a round file or the Dremel to adjust the holes. Once the holes are correct use the "C" clamp to hold the trunnion

in place and drill through to the other side with the .156" bit. At this point you will set up the receiver and trunnion with the rivets in place in the jig asshown.




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You will usually do both rivets from the same side but in this case I am waiting for a delivery of the correct rivets and am using ones that are too short. I

did one from each side to give support during this build. Also, please ignore the extra rivet hole at the bottom of the receiver. This was originally going to

be a pistol build but the receiver "Went south" on me.

Here is the fully riveted receiver. As you can see this can be done with a minimum of tools and cost. When you compare the overall results with a screw

build you can see that this is the way to go.




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Next you will need to trim the top rails to accept the bolt and carrier. If you are using a 100% or bent flat receiver this will usually just require a file. On a

80% blank you may need to trim more and make the drop in cutouts. Here is what the finished rails should look like.




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You will start with the bolt carrier cutout at the back of the receiver. This cutout is on both sides and goes from the rear trunnion forward .800". Place the

carrier on the rails flush against the rear trunnion and mark the front of the opening. Using the cutoff wheels on the Dremel make the cuts just under sizedand then file to fit.




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Now file the rails until the carrier moves easily back and forth. Next insert the bolt and mark the cutouts on each side. These can be filed in since they are

not very deep. Do not over cut these openings.




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If you are using a 100% receiver go to the next section. At this point you will need to decide how you are going to attach the rails. The originals are done

with a spot welder. This requires a modified lower tong and tip to fit the receiver properly.




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Your next step is to install the lower rails and the center support. Using a .250" drill bit as a spacer position the left rail in the receiver. Lock the rail in

place using the vise grip pliers. Put a piece of scrap metal or plastic under the jaw on the outside of the receiver to avoid scratching it. Install the bolt and

carrier to be sure the bolt will clear the ejector and will lock up in the trunnion and come out easily.




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The rails spot welded in place.




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The other options are to MIG/TIG weld them or screw them on. To MIG/TIG weld them you will mark the rail location on the outside of the receiver and

drill four 3/16" holes for the left rail and five 3/16" holes for the right rail in the receiver only. The left holes should match the centerline of the rail and be


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drill four 3/16 holes for the left rail and five 3/16 holes for the right rail in the receiver only. The left holes should match the centerline of the rail and be

evenly spaced. The right side holes are four evenly spaced along the top of the rail and one down by the hammer pin hole. Once the holes are drilled re

position the rails and weld in the holes. File or grind to finish and they are done.

To screw the rails on you will use 6-32 screws and nuts. With the rail held in place with vise grip pliers drill the proper size holes through the receiver

and rail. Use the same spacing as the MIG/TIG process. Screw the rails in place being sure to use red Locktite. You can also use a little JB Weld or other

glue to reinforce the screws.

Next you will install the center support. It will need to be trimmed to fit between the rails. Make the fit is as tight as possible since when you rivet it inplace the receiver will pull in a little. This will necessitate filing the rails again for the bolt carrier to move freely. Install the center support rivet the same

way you did the rear trunnion rivets. Be sure to go slowly. You do not want to damage the receiver.

Section 6: Reassembly

At this point you should have the completed receiver and these parts:




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All that is left to do is press in the barrel, install the FCG and put on the furniture. At that point you will need to go to the range and test fire for function.

All of the builds I have done have required some form of "Tweaking" to run properly. This is also the point you will want to decide what US parts you

are going to install for compliance. I will be using a TAPCO G2 trigger, hammer and sear, a US made pistol grip and a US made muzzle brake.

You will need the following tools: You will need the following materials:

3 lb hammer High pressure grease

Bench vise 2 x 7/32 "E" clips

The ram you made to remove the barrel

Large punch

Needle nose pliers

Large and small screw driver

Round file

The first thing to do is coat the inside of the front trunnion with the high pressure grease. I use RCBS case lube since it is designed for this type of

application. Start the barrel into the trunnion by hand. You can index it by lining up the rear sight with the ears on the front trunnion. Make sure that the

barrel is started true to the trunnion and in line with the top of the receiver.




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Open the vise up so that the front of the rear sight block can rest on it and everything else is free. Using you ram on the top of the rear trunnion only start

pounding the barrel home.




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As the barrel is seating keep an eye on the barrel pin slot. This must be lined up correctly to maintain headspace. As it gets close check it after every hit.

Once it is lined up the barrel is back in. You can replace the barrel pin from the right side and seat it using the large punch.




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Next install the furniture.




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Now is the time to check the headspace. If you do not have access to headspace gauges I would recommend that you have it checked by a gunsmith. If

you do have the gauges here is how to do it. Strip the firing pin and extractor from the bolt and try to close it on the No Go gauge. If it will not close even

with light pressure recheck it with the Go gauge. If it will close on the Go gauge the headspace should be OK. If it closes on the No Go gauge I would

have it checked by a gunsmith as the headspace may need to be reset.

Next you will install the FCG and selector. Check the pivot pin holes to ensure that the pins will seat properly. If not, use the round file to correct the

issue. Start with the hammer and main spring. The hammer and spring are installed as shown. Start by setting them in sideways and then rotating them so

the pegs on the back end of the spring arm are pointing down. Rest the hammer on top of the center support and insert a pivot pin through it from the left

and seat the pin in the right side of the receiver. Lock the pin in place with an "E" clip on the left side.




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Next install the safety selector from the right side. Line up the selector arm with the matching hole on the left side of the receiver. Rotate the selector

forward and down until it stops. Now you will set the trigger/sear assembly in place. If you are using a US made set you can assemble the trigger, sear


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and sear spring outside the rifle and drop them in. Be sure to install the sear spring between the trigger and sear. This is a common error that comes

up on the boards often. If you are using the original FCG you will put the trigger in first and then lower the sear and spring on to it and lock it in place

with the pivot pin. Be sure that the pivot pin is under the main spring arms on both sides. Hook the main spring arms over the back of the trigger and

secure the pin with an "E" clip.




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Now cock the hammer back so it catches on the front hooks of the trigger. Rotate the safety selector up until it is parallel with the top of the receiver and

check that the trigger can not be pulled to release the hammer. If the trigger does release the hammer you will need to extend the safety selector base by

ldi i d h i i h fil i h h f i h d " i " i i d h h d i h h i i ll h b l d i il


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welding it and shaping with a file. With the safety in the down "Fire" position and the hammer engaged with the trigger install the bolt and carrier, recoil

spring and dust cover.

You should now have something that looks like this!




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Congratulations! You have competed your AK build. There are still a few things that need to be done like test firing and fine tuning. When you go to the

range take a couple of files and some WD40. The rifle will need a little brake in time and some lubricant will help. Please take proper precautions during

the test firing.

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