compatibilità ed incompatibilità 2015/casas.pdf · the sun protection factor (spf) - uvb (med =...
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Filtri Solari: Tipologie chimico-fisiche, Funzionalità, compatibilità ed incompatibilità
SICC Seminario Tecnico
26 e 27 febbraio 2015
Carmina Casas
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The Sun
The Sun is the star at the center of the Solar System.
Sunlight is by far the most important source of energy for life
on Earth.
Directly and indirectly, all living things depend on the sun.
But how this energy reaches the planet? by nuclear fusion
(converts hydrogen into helium)
E = hc/(λ)
E = Energy (Jules)
h = Planck constant (~6.626 × 10-34J·s)
c = speed of light in vacuum (~3x108m/s)
λ = wavelength (m)
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200 230 260 290 320 350 380 410
UV- vacuum short wave
UVC
medium wave UVB
long wave UVA
visible light
radio waves
cosmic radiation
gamma radiation
X-ray radiation
visible light
infrared radiation
micro waves
UV radiation
wave length in nm
The spectrum of solar light at the Earth's surface
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The spectrum of solar light at the Earth's surface
The spectrum of solar light at the Earth's surface is mostly spread across the visible and near-infrared ranges with a small part in the near-ultraviolet
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Radiation λ (nm) %
UV-B
290-320 0.1
UV-A
320-400
4.9
Visible
400-760
39
Infra-red
760-3000
56
The spectrum of solar light at the Earth's surface
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200 220 240 260 280 300 320 340 360 380 400
Wavelength (nm)
0
0.1
0.2
0.3
0.4
0.5
0.6
0.7
0.8
0.9
1
ENERGY SKIN
PENETRATION
UV-C UV-B UV-A(I) UV-A(II)
The spectrum of solar light at the Earth's surface
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Ozone layer depletion
Ozone can be destroyed by a number of free radical catalysts
Steady decline of about 4% per decade
The effects of the depletion: increases the surface UV
radiation affecting the human health
A reduction by 10% the density of the ozone layer may produce
in the world:
• 300 000 new skin cancers (carcinomas)
• 4 500 new melanoma cancers
• 2 millions new ocular cataracts
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POSITIVE:
Stimulates physical and mental health
Production of the VITAMIN D3: essential for the absorption of calcium in the bones
Treatment of metabolic diseases
Atopic Dermatitis, Psoriasis
NEGATIVE:
Solar erythema, sunburn
Photo-sensitivity: photo-immunosuppression (solar herpes), photo-toxicity, photo-allergenicity, photo-dermatitis (lupus)
Pigmentary diseases: spots, melasma (pregnancy) or vitiligo
Skin aging Accelerator : deep wrinkles and loss of density and skin elasticity
Photo-carcinogenesis (skin cancer)
Sun Effects
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UV Radiations
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Photoaging
Solar elastosis:
breakage induced by
chronic UV exposure,
the breakdown of
collagen, elastin
accumulation
structure and loss of
deep wrinkles cause dermal network
Solar lentigines or age
spots: irregular brown
pigmented spots
formed by UV exposure
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Photoaging
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Photoaging
L’Oréal publication
New England Journal of Medicine
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Do you know your ABCDEs?
A: ASYMMETRY B: BORDER C: COLOR D: DIAMETER E: EVOLVING
•http://www.skincancer.org/es-ES/Los-ABCDEs-del-Melanoma
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Main Factors influencing the sunburn
LATITUDE
HEIGHT
SEASONALITY
DAY TIME
EXPOSITION TIME
TRANSMISSION
REFLEXION
1. Intensity of the light
2. Skin Phototypes
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Skin
Type Classification Behavior Hair & eyes
I very light, also "Nordic" Always burns, never
tans
Tends to have freckles, red or
blond hair, blue or green eyes.
II light, or light-skinned European Usually burns,
sometimes tans
Tends to have light hair,
blue/green or brown eyes.
III
light intermediate, or dark-
skinned European or "average
Caucasian"
May burn, usually
tans
Tends to have brown hair and
eyes.
IV dark intermediate, also
"Mediterranean" or "Olive"
Sometimes burns,
often tans.
Tends to have dark brown eyes
and hair.
V dark or "Brown" type
Moderate
constitutional
pigmentation Brown
Often has dark brown eyes and
hair.
VI very dark or "Black" type Marked constitutional
pigmentation Black Black-brown eyes and hair.
Fitzpatrick (1975)
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Skin Phototypes and the reaction to the sun
(M.A. PATHAK - 1983) MED= MINIMAL ERYTHEMA DOSE
PHOTOTYPE MED/UV-B, mJ/cm2 (*) MED/UV-B, minutes
I 15-30 8
II 25-35 18
III 30-50 28
IV 45-60 42
V 60-100 60
VI 100-200
(*) at 40ºN, summer time
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SPF = Sun Protection Factor (only against UVB)
The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) - UVB
(MED = Minimal Erythema Dose)
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UV Filter Classification
‣ Organic chemical compounds that absorb UV light
‣ Organic particles that mostly absorb UV light but also may reflect and scatter a fraction of light
‣ Inorganic particles that reflect, scatter and absorb UV light
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Organic UV Filters
Classification:
1. PABA and p-aminobenzoates
2. Salicylates
3. Cinnamates
4. Benzophenones
5. Antranylates
6. Dybenzoylmethanes
7. Camphor Derivatives
8. Organic particulates
9. Others
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1. PABA derivatives and p-aminobenzoates
UVB
C = O
N
OR
H
H
Organic UV Filters
2-ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA (Padimate O)
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2. Salicylates
UVB
R
O
H
C
OR’
O
Benzyl salicylate
Ethylhexyl salicylate
Homomenthyl salicylate
Trietanolamine salicylate
Potassium salicylate
Amyl salicylate
p-isopropylphenyl salicylate
4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate
Organic UV Filters
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3. Cinnamates
UVB
17 cinnamates, the most common ones: Ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (λmax: 310 nm) Isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate Dietanolamine-p-methoxycinnamate
OR
C = O Ö CH = CH -
CH3 Ö CH3 Ö CH3 Ö CH3
Organic UV Filters
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Ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate
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4. Benzophenones
UVB-UVA
C
=
O
O
H
RÖ
Dioxybenzone (8)
Oxybenzone (3)
Sulisobenzone (4)
Mexenone (10)
Organic UV Filters
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5. Antranilates (orto amino benzoates)
UVA (λ max 336 nm)
N N
C
H
O
O
H
C10H19
Menthyl Antranilate
Organic UV Filters
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6. Dibenzoylmethanes
UVA
C
=
O O
H
R1
C
=
O
R2
Organic UV Filters
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) λmax : 357nm
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Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Enol Keto
max 357nm max 260nm
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ENERGY RELEASE PATHWAYS
Kochevar,I.E., Basic Principles of Photomedicine and Photochemistry
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Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane : photoestabilization
1. Octocrylene 2. Polysilicone-15 (Parsol®SLX) 3. Methylbenzylidene camphor 4. Bemotrizinol (Tinosorb® S) 5. Bisoctrizole (Tinosorb® M) 6. Butyloctyl Salicylate (HallBrite® BHB) 7. Hexadecyl Benzoate 8. Butyloctyl Benzoate 9. Undecylcrylene dimethicone (HallBrite® PSF) 10.Ecamsule (Mexoryl® SX) 11.Diethylhexyl Naphthalate (Corapan® TQ) 12.Diethylhexyl Syringylidene Malonate
(Oxynex® ST) 13.Etc.
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Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane: other warnings
1. Solubility is key: octocrylene, ethylhexyl and homomenthyl salicylates, … to avoid crystal formation
2. Incompatible with metal ions: recommended the use EDTA
3. Avoid formaldehyde and donors: have a look at the preservative systems
4. Incompatible with TiO2 Al3+ coated
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7. Camphor Derivatives
UVB
Organic UV Filters
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor (Enzacamena) λmax : 302nm
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Other UV Filters
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Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (PBSA)
UVB-WS λmax : 304nm
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Polysilicone –15 (Parsol® SLX)
UVB
• Dry touch silicone backbone
• Liquid – no crystallization possible in formulation
• Ideal for light and silky texture sunscreens
• Improves sunscreen distribution and thus boosts SPF
• Acts with water soluble PBSA in a synergistic way for highest UVB protection
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PARSOL® SLX, proven synergy with PBSA to boost
the SPF
36
In vivo SPFs measured twice according to international SPF method (COLIPA)
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Iscotrizinol or Diethyl Hexyl ButamidoTriazone (Uvasorb® HEB, DHBT)
N
H
O
O
N
H
O
O
N H
O
N
N
N
N H
UVB
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Ethyl Hexyl Triazone (Uvinul® T150, EHT)
UVB (λmax: 314 nm)
N
N
N
N H
N H
N H
O
O
O
O
O
O
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Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul® A Plus, DHHB)
UVA
O O
O
O H
N
Uvinul® A Plus B: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate & Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
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Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (Neo Heliopan® AP, DPDT)
UVA-WS
N
H
N
N
H
N
S O
3
H
S O
3
N a
S O
3
N a
H O
3
S
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Terephthalilydene Dicamphor sulfonic acid (Mexoryl® SX)
UVA-WS λmax: 338 nm
O
O
S O 3
N a N a O
3 S
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Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl® XL)
Benzotriazole derivative
UVB-UVA, λmax: 303 nm and 344 nm
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Organic particules
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Bemotrizinol o Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb® S, BEMT)
UVA/UVB (λmax: 310 and 340 nm)
N
N
N
O H
O H
O O
O C H 3
Tinosornb ® S Aqua: Benzotrizinol in Polymethylmetacrylat, dispersed in water
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Bisoctrizole o Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb® M, MBBT)
UVA/UVB-WS (λ max: 360 nm)
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Absorption curves UVA range
0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
280 290 300 310 320 330 340 350 360 370 380 390 400
nm
E1
/1
BEMT
MBBT
DHHB
DPDT
Avobenzone
Benzophenone-3
BEMT: Tinosorb S MBBT: Tinosorb M DHHB: Uvinul A+ DPDT: Neoheliopan AP
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*5% in C&T, 0.02% eye lines;** 1% en C&T, 0.1% eye lines :*** 5% en C&T, 1% eye lines; § 7% en C&T,1% eye lines, §§ 1% en C&T, 0% eye lines §§§ 2% in C&T, 0.1% eye lines
Only 8 Organic UV filters approved worldwide
INCI EU USA Japan
Benzophenone-3 10% 6% 5%*
Benzophenone-4 5% 10% 10%**
Ethyl-Hexyl Methoxycinnamate 10% 7,5% 10%***
Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 4% 4% 3%§
Homosalate 10% 15% 10%
Octyl Salicylate 5% 5% 10%§§
Octocrylene 10% 10% 10%
Avobenzone 5% 3% 10%§§§
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Inorganic UV Filters
1. Titanium dioxide
2. Zinc Oxide
Rutile
Coating 1
Coating 2
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TiO2 Formulation Compatibility
with ascorbyl palmitate
Test protocol
10% TiO2 and 10% ascoryl palmitate are added in diisobutyl sebacate
Optical evaluation (after 60 min)
•Comp 1 •Comp 2 •Comp 3 •control •Copm0 •Comp 4 •Comp 5 •Comp 6
• • • • • • • •
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•UVB •UVA
High SPF contribution: Performance impact by crystal size
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“Nano” - Cosmetic Regulation - Europe
• Definition – Art. 2.1 (k) Regulation 1223/2009/EC
‘Nanomaterial’ means an insoluble or biopersistant and
intentionally manufactured material with one or more external
dimensions, or an internal structure, on the scale from 1 to 100 nm
• Labeling obligation (Art. 19.1(g)(ii)) for cosmetics containing
ingredients in nano- form: i.e. in the list of ingredients, the names
of such substances shall be followed by the word 'nano' in
brackets.
– Ex. Titanium dioxide (nano)
– Applicable from 11 July 2013 on
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TiO2- SCCS compliant. Specifications to be
fulfilled
Purity The rutile structure (>99.5% rutile TiO2 )
Crystalline structure & physical appearance as in submission (aspect ratio from ideal 1.2 up to 4.5)
Median particle size (30 to 100nm)
Volume specific surface area up to 460 m2/cm3
Coating materials stable in the final formulation and during use
Photostable in the final formulation
Photocatalytic activity (max 10%) compared to non-coated reference
•Rutile is more compact and has a higher light and thermal stability
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• Aluminium in cosmetic products is considered not to be safe!
• Al classified as carcinogenic to humans by International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC)
• TiO2 has to be guaranteed Aluminium-free and thus very safe for cosmetic use
TiO2- Aluminium free
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0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70
Formulation
Example 1
Formulation
Example 2
Formulation
Example 3
SPF Performance
+ 3 % TiO2 •Base Formulation
•Base Formulation
•Base Formulation
Test protocol
3% TiO2was incorporated into different emulsion systems containing different organic UV filters. In-vivo SPF was tested versus Placebo emulsion (without TiO2)
25% SPF boost
43% SPF boost
30% SPF boost
High SPF contribution: TiO2 with organic UV filters
+ 3% TiO2
+ 3% TiO2
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ANY QUESTION??
Thank you for your attention
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Referencias: Europe – Cosmetic Legislation
EU Cosmetic Directive 76/768/EEC http://eurlex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=CONSLEG:1976L0768:20110603:EN:PDF EU Cosmetic Regulation No 1223/2009 (apply from July 11, 2013) http://eurlex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2009:342:0059:0209:en:PDF UV filters annexes & opinions (in EU Cosmetic legislation or Cosing database) • http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/cosmetics/cosing/
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EFFICACY • Industry Guidelines for Evaluation Water Resistance, 2005: http://www.cosmeticseurope.eu/publicationscosmetics-europe-ssociation/guidelines.html?view=item&id=18 • ISO In vivo determination of the SPF (ISO 24444:2010): http://www.iso.org/iso/iso_catalogue/catalogue_tc/catalogue_detail.htm?csnumber=46523 • Determination of in vitro UVA protection, Colipa: http://www.cosmeticseurope.eu/publications-cosmetics-europeassociation/guidelines.html?view=item&id=33 • ISO In vivo determination of sunscreen UVA protection (ISO 24442:2011): http://www.iso.org/iso/search.htm?qt=24442%3A2011&sort=rel&type=simple&published=on • 2012, ISO 24443 Determination of in vitro UVA protection (under preparation, target : 04/2012): http://www.iso.org/iso/search.htm?qt=24443&sort=rel&type=simple&published=on
Referencias: Europe – Efficacy
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CLAIMS • EU Commission recommandations (OJ L265, 26/9/06): http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2006:265:0039:0043:EN:PDF • Pictogram's to inform consumers on dangers linked to sun exposure have been created by the EU Commission: http://ec.europa.eu/health-eu/news/sun_uv_en.htm • EU Commission Consumer information: http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/citizen/my_holidays/sunscreens_en.print.htm
Referencias: Europe –Claims
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Nano • SCENIHR http://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/emerging/docs/scenihr_o_032.pdf •REACH http://www.reach-alphelpdesk.de/de/Downloads/Kurzinfo/Kurzinfo%20Characterisierung%20Nanomaterialien%20engl.%20Fassung.pdf?__blob=publicationFile&v=2 • DG Environment http://ec.europa.eu/environment/chemicals/nanotech/ • France Decree no 2012-232 of 17.02.2012 & Order of 06.08.2012
http://www.legifrance.gouv.fr/jopdf/common/jo_pdf.jsp?numJO=0&dateJO=20120219&numTexte=4&pageDebut=02863&pageFin=02865
Alternatives to animal testing http://ihcp.jrc.ec.europa.eu/our_activities/alt-animaltesting/alt_test_cosmetics/ICATM%20Table%20of%20Assays%2021%20June%202012
Referencias: Europe
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Ingredients INCI Name % w / w
PARSOL® 1789 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 5.00
PARSOL® 340 OCTOCRYLENE 10.00
PARSOL® SLX POLYSILICONE-15 2.00
PARSOL® EHS ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5.00
Dermofeel® BGC BUTYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE/DICAPRATE 4.50
Finsolv TN C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE 2.00
Dub dis DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 3.00
Lanette O CETEARYL ALCOHOL 2.50
Lanette 22 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 1.50
AMPHISOL® K POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE 3.00
PARSOL® TX TITANIUM DIOXIDE, SILICA, DIMETHICONE 2.00
Carbopol Ultrez 21 ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE
CROSSPOLYMER
0.10
Keltrol CG-T XANTHAN GUM 0.20
1,3-Butylenglycol BUTYLENE GLYCOL 2.00
WATER DEM. AQUA 49.85
Edeta BD DISODIUM EDTA 0.10
PARSOL® HS PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID 2.00
Tris Amino Ultra PC TROMETHAMINE 1.25
VALVANCE™ Touch
210
SILICA 3.00
Preservative q.s.
Bare skin feel SPF 50+. Featuring VALVANCE™ Touch 210 and PARSOL® SLX for "full gliss - non stick" feel
61