colour and lighten hair goldwell professional theory workshop
TRANSCRIPT
COLOUR AND COLOUR AND LIGHTEN HAIRLIGHTEN HAIRCOLOUR AND COLOUR AND LIGHTEN HAIRLIGHTEN HAIR
GOLDWELL PROFESSIONAL GOLDWELL PROFESSIONAL THEORY WORKSHOPTHEORY WORKSHOP
COLOURANCEDEMI-PERMANENT
• Acidic pH of 6.8 – no damage to hair• Doesn’t contain ammonia• Provides service between a semi and
permanent colour• Colour balancing to equalize colour fading on
mid-lengths and ends• Can be applied the same day as a perming
service• Mild oxidising agent of 1.3%• Does not cover grey’s although up to 70%
coverage using the 4 natural intensifiers
COLOURANCE MIXING RATIOS
Colourance Acid Colour is activated by adding Colourance Lotion
Mixing ratio is 2:140mls Colourance Lotion
plus20mls Colour
Lotion is always measured first and then colour is added.
MIXING COLOURANCE FOR GREY COVERAGE
• To achieve the best possible grey coverage ‘N’ shade MUST be used
Percentage of white
Amount of ‘N’ series
Amount of target shade
Up to 30% 5mls 15mls
30 – 50% 10mls 10mls
TOPCHIC Permanent Hair Colour
• Unique cream/gel consistency easy to mix & apply
• Over 100 pre0mixed shades• 7 High lift shades• 2 Blonding creams for pre-lightening• Intense reds and coppers• NN series for optimum grey coverage• Number and letter system• Can be used with 3% 6% 9% & 12%
TOPCHIC MIXING RATIOS
Mixing ratio is 1:1 level 2 -10
40mls Hydrogen Peroxide plus
40mls ColourProcessing times up to 45mins
TOPCHIC MIXING RATIOS
Mixing ratio is 2:1 (11 series)
40mls Hydrogen Peroxide plus
20mls ColourProcessing times up to 45mins
Special series for grey coveragefull Head Application (short)
% of white Amount of ‘N’ or ‘NN’
series
Amount of target shade
Total amount
Up to 30% 15mls 25mls 40mls
30-60% 20mls 20mls 40mls
60-100% 25mls 15mls 40mls
Re-touch application (4-6 weeks later)
% of white Amount of ‘N’ or ‘NN’
series
Amount of target shade
Total amount
Up to 30% 8mls 12mls 20mls
30-60% 10mls 10mls 20mls
60-100% 12mls 8mls 20mls
TOPCHIC LOTIONTopchic lotion strength Usage Guide
3% - 10 vol •Toning after pre-lightening•Colour correction•Adding depth
6% -20 vol •Tone on tone –same level•Lightening up to 1 level •Optimum grey coverage•Oxycur platin (on-scalp bleach)
9% - 30 vol •Colouring up to 2 levels lighter •Oxycur platin (off-scalp bleach)
12% - 40 vol •Colouring up to 3 levels lighter•Colouring up to 4 levels lighter (11 series)
GOLDWELL LEVEL SYSTEM 2-10 SERIES (DEPOSIT COLOURS)
LEVEL DESCRIPTION2 Black
3 Dark Brown4 Medium Brown5 Light Brown6 Dark Blonde7 Medium Blonde8 Light Blonde9 Very Light Blonde10 Extra Light Blonde
OVERVIEW – GOLDWELLTONES AND REFLECTS
N NATURAL BN BEIGE NATURALNN NATURAL EXTRA BK BROWN COPPERNA NATURAL ASH BG BROWN GOLDA ASH RB RED BROWNP PEARL K COPPERNP NATURAL PEARL KG COPPER GOLDG GOLD KR COPPER REDGK GOLD COPPER OR ORANGE REDGB GOLD BEIGE RG RED GOLDKN COPPER NATURAL R REDKB COPPER BEIGE RK RED COPPERB BROWM/BEIGE VR VIOLET RED
V VIOLET
MIX TONE SERIESSpecial mix tones are concentrated shades that are added
to customize formulas. Mix tones enhance and intensify fashion shades (warmth) or provide additional controlled drabbing (coolness) to other shades.
A Mix: to be added to shades level 2-6 for dark drabbingP Mix: added to shade levels 7-10 & 11 for light drabbing
GG Mix: to enhance the G,GK,B,GB,OG,K and KG in level 7 or lighter. Gold enhancer.
KK Mix: to enhance the K,KB,KG,KR,GK,OR and RK in levels 6 and lighter. Copper enhancer
RR Mix: to enrich the R and RK series on all levels. Red enhancer
VV Mix: a warm, violet concentrate for adding into shades 4V,5V,6V and the VR shades.
THE 11 SERIES HIGHLIFT MATRIX
1. Determine the natural level2. Choose the type of blonde result
you wish to recommend, using the colour chart
3. Confirm target shade with client4. All results shown have been
performed with 12% (40vol) to show maximum lightness achievable
SELECTION OF TOPCHIC LOTION: 11 SERIES HIGHLIFTING
LEVELS OF LIGHTENING REQUIRED
TOPCH IC-LOTION
2-3 SHADES LIGHTER THAN NATURAL BASE SHADE
9% (30vol)
3-4 SHADES LIGHTER THAN NATURAL BASE SHADE
12% (40vol)
COLOUR BALANCING WITH COLOURANCE
SITUATION CASE 1 CASE 2Regrowth natural
base shade4N approx 1cm 5N approx 1cm
Existing shade 6K 8R
Target shade 6K 6R
Regrowth formula 20ml 6% +20ml 6K topchic (25mins)
20mls 6% + 20ml 6R topchic
(5mins)
Mids & ends formula
Colourance 6K (5mins)
Colourance 6R (25mins)
Goldwell colour case studies
Base level 5Reflect Red%white 50%Exsisting level 7Exsisting reflect copperTargetshade 6RBTexture FinePorosity Porous
Formula:
Base level 7Reflect orange%white 20%Exsisting level 7Exsisting reflect copperTargetshade 9GBTexture MedPorosity Porous
Formula:
Base level 2Reflect red%white 70%Exsisting level 4Exsisting reflect redTargetshade 4NTexture coursePorosity Resistant
Formula:
Base level 6Reflect yellow%white 95%Exsisting level 8Exsisting reflect GoldTargetshade 6BTexture MedPorosity Normal
Formula: