colour and lighten hair goldwell professional theory workshop

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COLOUR AND LIGHTEN COLOUR AND LIGHTEN HAIR HAIR GOLDWELL PROFESSIONAL GOLDWELL PROFESSIONAL THEORY WORKSHOP THEORY WORKSHOP

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COLOUR AND COLOUR AND LIGHTEN HAIRLIGHTEN HAIRCOLOUR AND COLOUR AND LIGHTEN HAIRLIGHTEN HAIR

GOLDWELL PROFESSIONAL GOLDWELL PROFESSIONAL THEORY WORKSHOPTHEORY WORKSHOP

COLOURANCEDEMI-PERMANENT

• Acidic pH of 6.8 – no damage to hair• Doesn’t contain ammonia• Provides service between a semi and

permanent colour• Colour balancing to equalize colour fading on

mid-lengths and ends• Can be applied the same day as a perming

service• Mild oxidising agent of 1.3%• Does not cover grey’s although up to 70%

coverage using the 4 natural intensifiers

COLOURANCE MIXING RATIOS

Colourance Acid Colour is activated by adding Colourance Lotion

Mixing ratio is 2:140mls Colourance Lotion

plus20mls Colour

Lotion is always measured first and then colour is added.

MIXING COLOURANCE FOR GREY COVERAGE

• To achieve the best possible grey coverage ‘N’ shade MUST be used

Percentage of white

Amount of ‘N’ series

Amount of target shade

Up to 30% 5mls 15mls

30 – 50% 10mls 10mls

TOPCHIC Permanent Hair Colour

• Unique cream/gel consistency easy to mix & apply

• Over 100 pre0mixed shades• 7 High lift shades• 2 Blonding creams for pre-lightening• Intense reds and coppers• NN series for optimum grey coverage• Number and letter system• Can be used with 3% 6% 9% & 12%

TOPCHIC MIXING RATIOS

Mixing ratio is 1:1 level 2 -10

40mls Hydrogen Peroxide plus

40mls ColourProcessing times up to 45mins

TOPCHIC MIXING RATIOS

Mixing ratio is 2:1 (11 series)

40mls Hydrogen Peroxide plus

20mls ColourProcessing times up to 45mins

Special series for grey coveragefull Head Application (short)

% of white Amount of ‘N’ or ‘NN’

series

Amount of target shade

Total amount

Up to 30% 15mls 25mls 40mls

30-60% 20mls 20mls 40mls

60-100% 25mls 15mls 40mls

Re-touch application (4-6 weeks later)

% of white Amount of ‘N’ or ‘NN’

series

Amount of target shade

Total amount

Up to 30% 8mls 12mls 20mls

30-60% 10mls 10mls 20mls

60-100% 12mls 8mls 20mls

TOPCHIC LOTIONTopchic lotion strength Usage Guide

3% - 10 vol •Toning after pre-lightening•Colour correction•Adding depth

6% -20 vol •Tone on tone –same level•Lightening up to 1 level •Optimum grey coverage•Oxycur platin (on-scalp bleach)

9% - 30 vol •Colouring up to 2 levels lighter •Oxycur platin (off-scalp bleach)

12% - 40 vol •Colouring up to 3 levels lighter•Colouring up to 4 levels lighter (11 series)

GOLDWELL LEVEL SYSTEM 2-10 SERIES (DEPOSIT COLOURS)

LEVEL DESCRIPTION2 Black

3 Dark Brown4 Medium Brown5 Light Brown6 Dark Blonde7 Medium Blonde8 Light Blonde9 Very Light Blonde10 Extra Light Blonde

OVERVIEW – GOLDWELLTONES AND REFLECTS

N NATURAL BN BEIGE NATURALNN NATURAL EXTRA BK BROWN COPPERNA NATURAL ASH BG BROWN GOLDA ASH RB RED BROWNP PEARL K COPPERNP NATURAL PEARL KG COPPER GOLDG GOLD KR COPPER REDGK GOLD COPPER OR ORANGE REDGB GOLD BEIGE RG RED GOLDKN COPPER NATURAL R REDKB COPPER BEIGE RK RED COPPERB BROWM/BEIGE VR VIOLET RED

V VIOLET

MIX TONE SERIESSpecial mix tones are concentrated shades that are added

to customize formulas. Mix tones enhance and intensify fashion shades (warmth) or provide additional controlled drabbing (coolness) to other shades.

A Mix: to be added to shades level 2-6 for dark drabbingP Mix: added to shade levels 7-10 & 11 for light drabbing

GG Mix: to enhance the G,GK,B,GB,OG,K and KG in level 7 or lighter. Gold enhancer.

KK Mix: to enhance the K,KB,KG,KR,GK,OR and RK in levels 6 and lighter. Copper enhancer

RR Mix: to enrich the R and RK series on all levels. Red enhancer

VV Mix: a warm, violet concentrate for adding into shades 4V,5V,6V and the VR shades.

THE 11 SERIES HIGHLIFT MATRIX

1. Determine the natural level2. Choose the type of blonde result

you wish to recommend, using the colour chart

3. Confirm target shade with client4. All results shown have been

performed with 12% (40vol) to show maximum lightness achievable

SELECTION OF TOPCHIC LOTION: 11 SERIES HIGHLIFTING

LEVELS OF LIGHTENING REQUIRED

TOPCH IC-LOTION

2-3 SHADES LIGHTER THAN NATURAL BASE SHADE

9% (30vol)

3-4 SHADES LIGHTER THAN NATURAL BASE SHADE

12% (40vol)

COLOUR BALANCING WITH COLOURANCE

SITUATION CASE 1 CASE 2Regrowth natural

base shade4N approx 1cm 5N approx 1cm

Existing shade 6K 8R

Target shade 6K 6R

Regrowth formula 20ml 6% +20ml 6K topchic (25mins)

20mls 6% + 20ml 6R topchic

(5mins)

Mids & ends formula

Colourance 6K (5mins)

Colourance 6R (25mins)

Goldwell colour case studies

Base level 5Reflect Red%white 50%Exsisting level 7Exsisting reflect copperTargetshade 6RBTexture FinePorosity Porous

Formula:

Base level 7Reflect orange%white 20%Exsisting level 7Exsisting reflect copperTargetshade 9GBTexture MedPorosity Porous

Formula:

Base level 2Reflect red%white 70%Exsisting level 4Exsisting reflect redTargetshade 4NTexture coursePorosity Resistant

Formula:

Base level 6Reflect yellow%white 95%Exsisting level 8Exsisting reflect GoldTargetshade 6BTexture MedPorosity Normal

Formula:

Base level 4Reflect red%white 60%Exsisting level 7Exsisting reflect GoldTargetshade 7NATexture MedPorosity Resistant

Formula: