COLOR CUSTOMIZATION

The Aveda Difference

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FOUNDATION

•By realizing the saturation of blue, red, yellow will determine the darkness of the color.

•Hair Color can be described in two ways:

depth/level

tone

How does Color Theory relate to Hair Color?

CONSULTATION- most important part of color service

• GREET• OBSERVE• LISTEN• SUGGEST• CONFIRM

HAIR ANALYSIS

• HAIR COLOR HISTORY- determine needs

• LEVEL AND TONE- natural and previous color• DESIRED LEVEL AND TONE- realistic desires• NRP AT DESIRED LEVEL- ensure formula

• TEXTURE- diameter of a hair strand

• DENSITY- # of hairs per square inch

• POROSITY- ability to absorb moisture• TENACITY- strength of cuticle (grey%)

Analysis

History of Previous hair color

Desired Result

Pre work

Formula Application

Processing Time

Helps you reach a clear agreement on desired service and result .

Provides Hair Analysis which ensures proper Formulation.

BLUEPRINT-planning guideused prior to Color Service.

AVEDA Consultation1. Analyze Hair Condition

2. Hair Color History

3. Realistic Desired Result

4. Establish Service Price

5. Maintenance/Time Schedule

6. Home Maintenance

6 Steps to Implement Perfect Color Service

1. Consultation2. Formulation3. Mixing4. Application5. Processing6. Removal

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ORGANIC LAVENDERcreates pleasant processing experience

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Green Tea Extract-used to aid in color development

process

• Most hair color formulations are created with synthetic couplers. Aveda Hair Color formulas combine traditional couplers with the natural activity of specific components (polyphenols) in green tea extract to create a broad range of colors

• In addition to acting as couplers, the polyphenols in green tea extract are known to be powerful anti-oxidants, which help prevent damage due to environmental stress

• Aveda uses nourishing plant oils sunflower, castor, an jojoba, coconut, babassu to create a gentler hair coloring process which results in incredible shine and helps to retain and improve its condition

Sunflower

Castor

Jojoba

Babasu Oils

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Coconut Oils

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Red Tea Rooibos

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Candelilia Wax

Soy Protein

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Corn

Tone-characteristic of color

measuring warmth and coolness

Tone characteristic of color measuring warmth and coolness

PURE TONESprovides a complete range of tonal families to create Color Customization

*NATURAL/NATURAL delivers maximum grey coverage

**INTENSE BASE add with natural + pure tones/pigment to achieve vibrant pure tonal intensity

not recommended on grey hair

Light Pure Tones

*NNVBBBYO**OR

Dark Pure Tones

*NNBVBGYO**RO**VR/ RV (DOCT)**R PURE PIGMENT

*Warm tones reflect more light and may appear slightly lighter.*Cool tones absorb the light and may make the lift appear slightly darker.

PURE PIGMENTS

• BLUE• RED• YELLOW

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Text

• GREEN• VIOLET• ORANGE

*add standard grams to enhance tone*add double when replacing pure tonerecommended on levels 6 and below

*use to create true Fashion colorsrecommended for prelightened to pale yellow

LEVEL categorizes color from darkness to lightness

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LEVEL measurement of lightness and darknessNatural Series 1n-10n formulated for balanced neutral (without excess warmth or

coolness)

Natural Remaining PigmentWhen permanent hair color is used, it is important to identify the N.R.P. at

each of the 10 levels.

N.R.P is the tonal value that that hair contributes as it lightens.

• 10 Lightest Blonde• 9 Very Light Blonde• 8 Light Blonde• 7 Medium Blonde• 6 Dark Blonde• 5 Lightest Brown• 4 Light Brown• 3 Medium Brown• 2 Dark Brown• 1 Black

• Pale Yellow• Yellow• Yellow/Orange• Orange• Red/Orange• Red• Red• Red• Red• Red

Light Pure Base—A light copper base that is never used alone, it is designed to be mixed with the light O/R Pure Tone

Dark Pure Base—A red base that is never used alone, it is designed to be mixed with the Dark Red Pure Tones : Dark R/O, Dark R/V, Dark R/R

*The Pure Bases create intense, vibrant Copper and Red tones

**Not recommended for use on Grey Hair

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DEPOSIT ONLY Pure Bases

Aveda Color Catalyst Crème Developer

Active Ingredient is Hydrogen Peroxide Features cationic conditioners that buffer the

damage Essential oils in Color Catalyst crème developer

combine with the hair color’s chemistry to deliver balanced lasting tonal purity

Emulates the chemistry of the sun in lightening the hair

A conditioning crème developer features a fresh flower and plant Pure-Fume aroma

Formulated for use with Aveda Full Spectrum hair color, Aveda Shades of Enlightenment and Aveda Enlightener

Available in 5, 10, 20, 30, & 40 volume

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Aveda Color Treatment Activator

• Fomulated for use with Aveda Full Spectrum Deposit-Only

• Cream Developer• Liquid Developer features a fresh flower and plant Pure-Fume aroma

31DEPOSIT ONLY NOT TO BE INTERMIXED WITH FULL SPECTRUM PERMANENT

AVEDA FULL SPECTRUMcreated for customization and condition *UNIVERSAL 0n AVAILABLE

•Permanent•96% Plant Derived•5,10, 20, 30, 40 volume Color Catalyst PROCESS 20,30,40,45 MIN*Natural/Natural available for Maximum coverage

FOR GREY WITH NO N/N PROCESS 45 MIN

Deposit Only Ammonia-free

•99% Plant Derived•Cream or LiquidColor Treatment Activator PROCESS 10-20 MIN*blends up to 50% grey

Enlightenment•96% Plant Derived•30 or 40 volume

Color CatalystPROCESS

30 volume = 30 min

40 volume = 45 min

Enlightener• 5,10,20,30,40 volume Color Catalyst

• use enlightener crème booster for on scalp applications

COLOR VISCOSITY- use 4-9 Drops

Recommended Grams of Pure Tones

for a 40 Gram Color + 40 ML Color CatalystBright Formula is 50% N series + 50% Pure Base

LEVELNatural Series

DESCRIPTOR STANDARDSOFT

(50% Less)STRONG(50% More)

PURE BASE INTENSE

10N Lightest Blonde 2 1 3 LIGHT 4

9N Very Light Blonde 4 2 6 LIGHT 8

8N Light Blonde 6 3 9 LIGHT 12

7N Medium Blonde 8 4 12 LIGHT 16

6N Dark Blonde 2 1 3 DARK 4

5N Lightest Brown 4 2 6 DARK 8

4N Light Brown 6 3 9 DARK 12

3N Medium Brown 8 4 12 DARK 16

2N Dark Brown _ _ _ _ _

1N Black _ _ _ _ _

APPLICATION

APPLICATION apply Barrier Cream (Anti- Humectant) to hairline, this is used to

protect guests skin from absorbing hair color

Aveda Retouch apply to New Growth- the growth of hair after a color service.

Hair Color Balancing

Refresh- color has lost tone and up to one-level.

After hair color is completed processing wet hair with hot water Emulsify color through hair for 2-5 minutes. Shampoo.

*It is recommended that you retouch and refresh every 4-6 weeks

Retouch Reestablish- color has lost tone and1-2 levels. Apply hair color to mid-lengths and ends after retouch. Can remix desired shade with 10 volume or deposit-only formula.

Alternative Virgin Application•Instead of traditional virgin application, a higher volume of developer(10 volume higher) is applied to mid-length and ends. This ensure even lifting of both the scalp area and the mid-lengths, and can be applied at the same time.

*Always perform Strand Test to ensure desired end result. This enables us to monitor color development and avoid potential problems.(also to see how non aveda color might react with Aveda)

AVEDA ENLIGHTENERLIGHTENER- Chemical compound which lightens hair by dispersing, dissolving and decolorizing the natural hair pigment. Product used to decolorize- commonly referred to as bleach

Off-the-scalp

1oz Enlightener 2oz Color Catalyst

On-the-scalp

1oz Enlightener 1oz Crème Booster 2oz 20 volume

1oz=30 grams*It is not recommended to put enlightener under the dryer because it evaporates the protective essential oils in the product, it may swell and can cause irritation to the scalp area, and it may dry out the product and stop the processing.

**Recommended processing time up to 60 min

**Creme booster accelerates decolorization by up to 15 min

Aveda Shades of Enlightenment Blonding System

EXTRA LIFT BLONDE SERIES

Mix: 40g Extra Lifting Cream 80ml Color Catalyst Text

*Do not add Enlightener Creme Booster to increase lifting

add PASTEL PURE TONE B,V,YO**add 4 g for standard formula

soft 2gstrong 6-8g

4 LEVELS= 30 VOL 30 MIN 5 LEVELS= 40 VOL 45 MIN

Hair Color CleansingRemoval of artificial color from guests hair, removes tone, and hair color buildup

Formula: 1oz enlightener 1oz Shampure 1oz Color Catalyst/ hot water

Remove Tone=hot water/ 5vol

1 level lift=10 volume

2 level lift= 20 volume

3 or more= 30 volume**If Lightening has not occurred in 10 minutes, remix the next strongest formula, and apply. *Enlightener will work effectively up to one hour***Thoroughly shampoo hair prior to recoloring

*Use 20 volume to Recolor after a cleansing formula has been processed

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Full Spectrum Deposit-Only Hair Color recommended

***Refer to Precoloration Formulas

*Use 20 volume to Recolor after a precoloration formula has been processed

TPre Coloration A process that replaces the lost N.R.P to lightened hair prior to applying darker hair color shade- once referred to as filler. Necessary when guest is going 3 or more levels darker.

TONER Refers to the color formula applied after lightening. Used in a double process blonde service or anytime you need to modify hair color with an additional color.

*TOWEL DRY THOROUGHLY/ APPLY EQUALIZING SOLUTION

Glossing Color Formulas•Shine = 40g 0N + 40g Liquid •Sparkle= 40g 0N + 2-8g Puretone + 40g Liquid

•Sheer Glaze= 20g 0N + 20g Puretone + 40g liquid•Glaze= 20g 0n + 20g N + 2-8g Puretone + 40g liquid UNIVERSAL 0N USED TO

ADD SHINE/GLOSS, REFRESH OR BALANCE COLOR, INCREASE TRANSLUCENCY, ADD OR DECREASE TONE, DECREASE LIFTING POWER, CREATE FASHION COLORS

Six Basic Section Foiling Technique

Color Placement Terminology

• PANELS: Sections that the hair is parted into on the head

• PARTINGS:Sub-Sections that are taken from panels and are then woven or sliced to create highlights

• DENSITY:Number of foils that are in each panel

• EFFECT: Number of weaves or slices in each parting

Color Placement TerminologyLIGHT DENSITY• 30% or less of the hair in each panel is highlighted in

foil• Partings are ½” apart. Section of hair left uncolored

between each foil would be appx. ½” to 1”

MEDIUM DENSITY• 50% of the hair in each panel is highlighted in foil.• Partings are ¼” to ½” apart

HEAVY DENSITY• 70% of the hair in each panel is highlighted in foil• Partings are 1/8” to ¼” apart

Color Placement TerminologyEFFECT- Weaving Effects:• Fine Effect—is achieved with 10-12 weaves per parting

• Medium Effect– is achieved with 6-8 weaves per parting

• Strong Effect—is achieved with 2-3 weaves per parting

Always Bricklay pattern

Color Placement TerminologySlicing Effect• A fine effect in slicing is

achieved by parting off a fine slice of hair to be colored within the foil. Placement of the next slice is determined by the density desired

• A medium effect is achieved by taking 2 slices in a row, placing each slice to be colored in a foil back to back, before leaving hair out between the foils to be left uncolored

• A strong effect is achieved by taking 3 slices in a row, placing each slice in foil back to back leaving hair out between the next set of foils

Color Blending/ Techniques

• Under color• In between• On Color• Pull Through

• Singles• Tipping• Color Melting

COLOR MAGIC• Choose Desired Level/Tone• Write down NRP• Write down Pure Tone• Breakdown Secondary colors to

primary• In dominance Blue, Red, Yellow

will neutralize each other• Tone remaining will be the

contributing tone of formula