collingwood historical society, inc. annual history...

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Copyright Collingwood Historical Society, Inc. Reg. No. A0030731L Collingwood Historical Society, Inc. Annual History Walk: East Clifton Hill 14 November 2015 We acknowledge the Wurundjeri people as the original inhabitants of this land. This is an expanded version of the handout used on the day of the walk. See the end of the document for Sources and Further Reading. Melbourne and its Suburbs, compiled by James Kearney, draughtsman, Andrew Clark, Surveyor General. Detail. For the full map, see Collingwood HS Maps Starting point Hall Reserve at end of Spensley Street The area now known as Clifton Hill (a name first used in 1871) was (mostly) Crown land until late 1855 when it was annexed to the newly formed municipality of East Collingwood. However, at this date east Clifton Hill had already been settled by a number of inhabitants, including several contractors who used the local bluestone to build themselves houses, shown on the ca. 1855 map above, and still in existence. These people were most unimpressed by the annexation application, but were unsuccessful in opposing it. The themes of today’s Walk are bluestone, both quarrying and building, abattoirs and butchers, back lanes, and and the pattern of local life, housing, and work over more than a hundred and fifty years. This area includes the oldest houses in Collingwood as well as early twentieth century subdivisions and housing developments, and pockets of interwar housing, which are an indication of changing patterns of land use. In some cases, this was because families retained large landholdings, in others because industries occupied sizable tracts of land. The presence of noxious industries, and the distance from public transport of the further reaches of east Clifton Hill, may also have had an impact. Of course there has also been the more recent pattern of development during the last 20 years or so and which continues today especially with the changing use of many factory sites. Most of east Clifton Hill is covered by the City of Yarra’s Heritage Overlay 316. http://www.yarracity.vic.gov.au/planning--building/Heritage/Heritage-Precincts/

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CopyrightCollingwoodHistoricalSociety,Inc. Reg.No.A0030731L

CollingwoodHistoricalSociety,Inc.

AnnualHistoryWalk:EastCliftonHill14November2015

WeacknowledgetheWurundjeripeopleastheoriginalinhabitantsofthisland.

Thisisanexpandedversionofthehandoutusedonthedayofthewalk.SeetheendofthedocumentforSourcesandFurtherReading.

Melbourne and its Suburbs, compiled by James Kearney, draughtsman, Andrew

Clark, Surveyor General. Detail. For the full map, see CollingwoodHSMapsStartingpointHallReserveatendofSpensleyStreetTheareanowknownasCliftonHill(anamefirstusedin1871)was(mostly)Crownlanduntillate1855whenitwasannexedtothenewlyformedmunicipalityofEastCollingwood.However,atthisdateeastCliftonHillhadalreadybeensettledbyanumberofinhabitants,includingseveralcontractorswhousedthelocalbluestonetobuildthemselveshouses,shownontheca.1855mapabove,andstillinexistence.Thesepeopleweremostunimpressedbytheannexationapplication,butwereunsuccessfulinopposingit.

Thethemesoftoday’sWalkarebluestone,bothquarryingandbuilding,abattoirsandbutchers,backlanes,andandthepatternoflocallife,housing,andworkovermorethanahundredandfiftyyears.ThisareaincludestheoldesthousesinCollingwoodaswellasearlytwentiethcenturysubdivisionsandhousingdevelopments,andpocketsofinterwarhousing,whichareanindicationofchangingpatternsoflanduse.Insomecases,thiswasbecausefamiliesretainedlargelandholdings,inothersbecauseindustriesoccupiedsizabletractsofland.Thepresenceofnoxiousindustries,andthedistancefrompublictransportofthefurtherreachesofeastCliftonHill,mayalsohavehadanimpact.Ofcoursetherehasalsobeenthemorerecentpatternofdevelopmentduringthelast20yearsorsoandwhichcontinuestodayespeciallywiththechanginguseofmanyfactorysites.

MostofeastCliftonHilliscoveredbytheCityofYarra’sHeritageOverlay316.http://www.yarracity.vic.gov.au/planning--building/Heritage/Heritage-Precincts/

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HallReserve,TheEsplanade. Thesmallstonehutinthereservewasbuiltaspartofthesustenanceworkprovidedfortheunemployedduringthe1930sDepressionyears.Itwasa gardener’s shed but, having been unused in recent years, was being considered fordemolitionbyCouncil.Alocalprotestreversedthedecision.Recentworkshaveimprovedthebuildingandaconsultationwasheldwiththecommunityaboutpossibleuses.

Ifyouhavetime,youmaywanttolookatthehousesofsomeCollingwoodNotablesbeforedescendingtothecreek:

StAsaph77HeidelbergRoad:Robert“Sugar”Roberts,bookmaker,associateofJohnWren,andLaborcouncillor1930-34,1937-48.

22TheEsplanade:Collingwood-bornWilliamRuthven,WW1VictoriaCrosswinnerandCollingwoodcouncillor.

12TheEsplanade:CharlieUtting,Collingwoodfootballerandcouncillor.

WalkontotheMerriCreekPathFollowthepathsouthashortdistanceuntil,awayfromtheroad,youcanlookaroundforsomesenseofwhattheareamighthavebeenlikepre-Europeansettlement.

ThelocalIndigenouspeople,theWurundjeri-willam,wereariver-basedpeopleandtheMerriCreekandtheYarrariverprovidedthemwithfoodandotherresources.Theareawasacentralcampingsiteforthem.NotfaruptheMerriCreek(inNorthcote)isthesitewhichhasbeensuggestedastheplacewhereJohnBatmansignedaTreatywiththelocalAboriginalleadersin1835,markingthestartofmajordisruptionoftheirwayoflife.IntheearlydaysofEuropeansettlementlargegroupsofvisitingAboriginalsfromothernorthernareaswouldstillmeettogetherinthisarea(fromHallReservetoDwyerSt)forceremonialandotherpurposes.

TheLettsomRaid1840

TheareaofHallsReserve(wheretheHeidelbergRoadcrossestheMerriCreek)hasbeenidentifiedasthesiteoftheinfamousLettsomRaid.TheraidillustratessomeofthetensionsbetweentheauthoritiestryingtoprotecttheAboriginals(thefewappointedProtectors)andthosetryingtoprotectthesettlersandtheirflocks(troopersandpolice).

MajorLettsomhadbeendispatchedfromSydneytoapprehendAboriginalleaderswhowereseenasresponsibleforattackingsettlersontheGoulburnRiver.HefollowedthemtoMelbourneafterlearningtheyhadgonethereforaceremonialgathering.HedemandedProtectorWilliamThomashandovertheGoulburn‘troublemakers’butThomasrefusedastherewerenowarrantsfortheirarrest.LettsomthengainedpermissionfromSuperintendentLaTrobetomaketheraid(whileThomaswasabsentfromMelbourne).

On11October1840MajorLettsomledalargegroupofarmedpoliceandtrooperstoraidabigencampmentofAboriginalfamilies‘aboutthreemilesfromMelbourneontheHeidelberg-road’.Twomenwerekilled,includingtheyoungchieftainWindberry,otherswereinjured,andmen,womenandchildrenweremarchedawaytothestockadeinMelbournewheretheywereimprisoned.Thepressatthetimereported:

GreatexcitementprevailedintownonSundayinconsequenceofanumberofblacks,aboutfivehundred,havingbeenarrested,andduringthedaysuccessivecrowdsofpersonswereattractedtowardstheplacewheretheywereconfined.

(TheColonistSydney24Oct1840p.2,3quotingTheHerald12Oct1840)

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ThepressdescribedtheraidbyMajorLettsomandhisforces:

Thebivouacwasreachedaboutbreakofday…thewholebodyweresurroundedbeforetheywereawareofthenearproximity...Onperceivingthemilitary,theblacksappearedgreatlyalarmed,andsomeattemptsweremadetoescape.

Thenewspaperdescribedoneofthemenshot:‘ThenameofthesavageisWindberry,achieftainandamostdeterminedscoundrel.’

IncontrastAssistantProtectorWilliamThomaswroteinprotest:‘WindberrywasoneofthenoblestmindedblacksIevermetwith–hehadsavedthelivesofmanyshepherdsandtravellersontheGoulburnRiveranddeservedamuchbetterfate’.

Whathappenedtotheimprisonedfamilies?EdwardParker,ProtectorfortheGoulburnregion,managedtofreeallbut30oftheGoulburnmen,10ofwhomwereputontrialandsentencedto10yearsfortheft–withoutthebenefitofdefencelawyersorinterpreters.

TheareawheretheMerriCreekmettheYarraandwhatisnowYarraBendParkbecameagovernmentreserveandinthe1840swasthesiteoftheMelbourneAboriginalProtectorateHeadquarters(1842-9),theNativePoliceCorpsHeadquarters(1842-3)andtheMerriCreekAboriginalSchool(1845-51.However,after1847fewAboriginalsanylongervisitedtheareaasnumbersdwindledduetodisplacement,deathanddisease.

ContinuetofollowtheMerriCreekpathsouthEnjoytheambienceofthepathwhichisnowalovelytreedrouteforustoenjoy,listeningtobirdsongandthedistanttinkleofflowingwater.LooktothelefttoseetheMerriCreekanditshighbanksontheeast.Looktotherighttosee,firstly,remainsoflowstonewallsbuiltbysustenanceworkersduringthe1930sDepression,thentheremainsofthehighbasaltcliffswhichwereexcavatedforbluestone.

StopbytherockyoutcropjustbeforethepathuptoQuarriesPark.

Hereyoucangetaclose-upviewofthestone.Andperhapsthosepiecesofrustingmetalinthecrevicearesomeremainderofquarryingwork?Quarries.LavaflowsleftarichresourceofbasaltforearlyMelbournecontractorswhichwastocreateadistinctivelooktolanes,gutters,andbuildingsinCollingwoodandsurroundingdistricts.BothMelbourneCouncilandCollingwoodCouncilhadquarrieshere.Thebasalt,whichformsthesteepsidesoftheMerriCreekvalley,wasfromlavaflowsupto2millionyearsagoandthecliffshavethedistinctivecolumnarformofweatheredbasalt.

ThequarrieswerelocatedalongandwestofMerriCreekneartheendofRamsdenandNooneStreetsandbecamelongtermfixturesinthearea.Quarryingwascarriedoutfromthelate1840suntiltheclosureoftheCollingwoodCouncilQuarryin1963.ThequarriesprovidedmuchofthebluestonethatissomuchpartofMelbourne&Collingwood’slanes,guttersandbuildings.ThequarriesbecameatiponclosureandarenowQuarriesPark.ContractorsSamuelRamsdenandCharlesandHenryBrownwereearlyexploitersofthequarry.TherewillbemoreonRamsdenlaterinthewalk.Viewofthequarry:http://www.picturevictoria.vic.gov.au/site/yarra_melbourne/Collingwood/9148.html

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Thequarryworkershadadangerousanddifficultjobintheearlydaysgettingthebluestoneoutbyhand.Thehourswerelongandcontinuedinallweathers,sixdaysaweek.Mechanisationmadeitabiteasierinlateryearsbuttherewasstillthedangertoworkersandthepublicfromexplosionsgoingwrong.

TheMelbourneCityCouncilQuarryinWrightStreetclosedin1939,maybeduetoblastingoperationsin1934,whichcausedrocksupto13lbstobethrownhundredsofyardsintothehousesinWright,Yambla,Caroline&DwyerStreets;anumberofhousesweredamaged,andadultsandchildrenwereinjured.MrThompsonofTheRatePayersandPropertyOwnersDefenceLeague,wasstruckwhilstrepairinghiscarinDwyerSt.MrDunkin,aformerMayorofCollingwoodandPresidentoftheLeague,said‘residentshadbeenfightingfor20years,againsttheQuarry,whichtheyregardedasamenacetolifeandproperty,ashasnowbeenproven.’

ToseethelocationofquarriesintheearlytwentiethCentury,usetheStateLibrarycataloguetoviewMMBWDetailPlans1277and1279.

TheLabyrinthisa2001additiontotheMerripath.Anotheruseforbluestone!

YarraBendAsylum.AcrosstheMerriCreek.In1845,theNSWLegislativeCouncilallocated£1000towardsYarraBendAsylumandin1848,TheArgusreportedthatthenewasylum,thefirstofitskindinVictoria,was‘nowopenforthereceptionofitsunfortunatevisitants.’ItremainedtheonlyasyluminVictoriafor20yearsandwasthereforecentralintheearlyhistoryofcareforthementallyillinVictoria.Seton620acres,thesitecouldinitiallyaccommodate25patientsbutthenumberswelledto700withinonlytenyearsofopening.By1870onereportcommentedthatYarraBendwastheeighthlargestasylumintheworld,whichwhencomparingpopulationsizesput‘Victoriainthemostunenviablepositionofbeingthemaddestplaceintheworld’.

Problemsofovercrowdingwerecontributedtobythehastyadmissionofinappropriatelyassessedpatients,includingalcoholics,paupersandgold-fieldcriminals.Theasylum,runinitiallybynon-medicallytrainedsupervisors,workedforitsdurationunderthepracticeofrequiringonlyonesignatureforadmissionbuttwofordischarge.Retiredmilitaryofficer,GeorgeWatson,wasthefirstSuperintendent.Admissionswererarelyreviewed,leavingmanyinmateslingeringunnecessarilyforyears.Overcrowding,coupledwithreportsoframpantmistreatmentandneglectwerepersistentandtheimpetusfornumerousEnquiries.Despitecallsforitsclosurefromasearlyasthe1850s,thelastremainingpatientisrecordedasbeingtransferredtoKewAsylumin1925.

Theoriginalstructureconsistedofbluestonecottagesandlaternewwardsofmakeshiftwoodenstructures.Highbluestonewallsweresupposedtoblockviews,buttherearealsostoriesofCliftonHillresidentstalkingtopatients.Atypicalcottageconsistedofadayroom,storeroom,tworoomsforattendants,andtwopatientdormitorieseachholdingapproximately16patients.Thefirstinmateswereputtoworkonpigandpoultryfarmingaswellastendingtovegetablegardensthatslopedtowardsthepollutedriver.TheAsylumwaslocatedbeyondthemunicipality,soCollingwoodCouncilwasnotconcernedfortheinmatestormentedbyairpollution.

Inmateswerepredominantlytreatedwith‘moraltherapy’–awayofdissolvingtheirlevelofdeviance.Physicalpunishmentwasappliedindiscriminately–straightjacket,handcuffs,

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gloves,chainingtotrees.Inmateswerelefttosimplyroamtheairingyardsallday,nomattertheweather,andpatientfightsandviolationswereleftunchecked.

YarraBendistheonlyasyluminAustraliathathascompletelydisappeared,yetitisstilltheburialplaceofupwardsof1000patients.Alonebluestonegatepillar,and,forthekeenobserver,alineofdeciduoustreesthatwouldhaveformedtheentry,aretheonlyvisibleremnantsofthesite’shistory.Urbanlegendhasitthatthephrase‘goingaroundthebend’referstotheYarraBendAsylum.Howevermostinstitutionsaroundtheworldatthistimeweresituatedattheendoflongdrivewayswiththemainbuildingsaroundacurvesothatpeopleapproachingcouldnotseewheretheywereheading…

FollowthepatharoundtothebeginningofRamsdenSt,nearthesportsoval.Ifyouhavetime,walkuptothehighpointbetweentheMerriCreekpathandRamsdenStforafineviewofthesurroundingarea

Abattoirs.Bythemid-1850s,theprivatelyownedmeatworksofCharlesAlexanderandlaterthemunicipalabattoirsofEastCollingwood(establishedin1861andextendedafewyearslater)werecharacterisingtheindustrialfocusalongtheMerriCreekinCliftonHill,andcreatingprocessingworkswhichincludedtanneries,fellmongering,soapandcandlemanufacturingandwoolscouring.

DespitethebadreputationtheygaveCliftonHillandtheodourandsqualortheycreated,themeatworksandtheabattoirswereoffinancialbenefittoCouncilthroughlettingandgrazingfees.For24years,councillettheabattoirstoacoupleofbutchers,includingCharlesAlexander.Theychargedfeestoothersbutcherswishingtoslaughter.Forafurtherfee,thecouncilpermittedbutchersandstockownerstograzetheiranimalsonnewlyacquiredreservesinCliftonHill.Butchersworkedkneedeepinbloodandoffalinthemunicipalabattoirs.Theywereconsideredpoorlymanagedandundersized,soillegalbackyardslaughteringanduseofpublicspaces-suchasatthebottomoftheReillyStdrain–remainedrife.Dozensofbutcherswerewillingtorisktheoccasionalfineinordertomaximiseprofits,andaddedbloodandoffaltothewaterandsewagewhichraninopenchannelsdowntotheflat.

Inthemid1860sepidemicsforcedclosureoftheabattoirsforatime.Butchers,whoincludedresourcefulandinfluentialmen,campaignedtowintolerationfromcouncillors.JohnPritchard,leaderoftheabattoirsboycott,eventuallybecameoneofthewealthiestSmithStreettraders,withastylishresidenceat217GoldStreetCliftonHill.

Bythe1870stheabattoirs,filthierthanever,werebeingusedmainlybybutchersfromoutsidethedistrict.In1880withepidemicoutbreaksimminent,alargenumberofCliftonHillresidentsattendedameetingtodiscusstheremovalofseveralnuisancesinthearea,includingtheabattoirs.Theabattoirsweredeemed‘highlyprejudicialtothehealthofresidents’andparticularlyinjurioustothehealthoftheasyluminmatesbecauseofnightsoilandexcreta‘buriedsoshallowitcouldbeuncoveredwithacommonwalkingcane’.Theabattoirsclosednotlongafterwards,butillegalslaughteringandboilingdowncontinuedwellintothe1890s.

WalkwestalongRamsdenStreettowardsBrockenshireStreet

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RamsdenStreet.Thiswastheoriginalaccessroadtothequarries.Nowitdisplaysamixtureofarchitecturalstylesfromvariousperiodsofdevelopment,withVictorian,FederationandEdwardianstylesrepresented.Morerecentlymodernhousingdevelopmentshavebeencreated,startingatFeildStreetwhichhadnotpreviouslybeensettled.

Theformerquarrysitebecameatipandisnowapark.Viewofthetip:

http://www.picturevictoria.vic.gov.au/site/yarra_melbourne/Collingwood/9493.html

BrockenshireStreet.Thisisalatesubdivisionlinedwithhousesbuiltatthesameperiodandthusshowingconsistencyinbuildingstyle.Thesubdivisionoccurredin1925/26.TheCollingwoodCouncilcalledfortendersfortheconstructionofBrockenshireStreet,offRamsdenStonDecember16th1925.In1926thehouseswerebeingbuiltwithsevencompletedontheeastsideofthestreet,withthreebeingvacant.Fourhousesonthewestsidewerebuiltandallwereoccupied.In1928eighthouseswerebuiltontheeastsideandsixhousesonthewestside.By1930allhouseswereoccupied.InSands&McDougallDirectoriesthestreetislistedasbeingoff109RamsdenStreet.

ItwasnamedafterEdwardBrockenshire,wholivedat109RamsdenStfromaround1912untilhisdeathin1943aged78.Hewasresponsibleforthesubdivisionandbuiltthehouses.Edward,borninMaldonin1864,wasajeweller,originallyhavingashopinSmithStreet,Collingwoodandlateranoptician.

ThehousesinBrockenshireStreetrepresentafineexampleofagroupoftimberbungalowsoftheinter-warperiod.Thesebungalowstylehousesweredetached,onestoreywithgabledroofforms,expressedchimneys,weatherboardandcorrugatedironroofing.

WalkwestalongbluestonelaneatendofBrockenshireStreettoHorneStreet

Aswellasbeingusedforbuildingsbothgrandandsmall,bluestonewasextensivelyusedforkerbing,channeling,andpavingandhascreatedaverydistinctiveinfrastructureintheinnersuburbs.Aswewalkdownthebacklanemadefromthequarriedbluestone,notethatbeforetheseweragesystemwasinstalledbytheMelbourneMetropolitanBoardofWorks,theselaneswereessentialforthe“dunnycart”manwhoremoved“nightsoil”.Insomelanes(notthisone)youcanstillseesignsoftheoldopeningswhichenabledaccesstothepan.Itiswellworthawalkaroundthebacklanestoidentifythefewthatremain.

1and3HorneSt.1850s,formerly97RamsdenSt,residenceofHenryBrown(greatlyaltered).2FordSt.Builtby1853,originallyresidenceofCharlesBrown,acontractor inpartnershipwith Samuel Ramsden andHenry Brown. Formerly 87 Ramsden St. Brown purchased theCrownlandallotmentofoneacre32percheson8May1851for£37/4/0.FordSt.Atthispointlookattheca.1855maponpage1whichshowsthreehousesinarow.YoucanalsolookatMMBWdetailplan1223showingthesamehousesaround1905.WearestandingoutsideCharlesBrown’shouseat2FordSt.OnthecornerisHenryBrown’shouse,nowknownas1and3HorneSt.Eachofthethreehousesappearstohavehadaseparatekitchen,whichinthecaseofHenryBrown’sandRamsden’shouseshaveendedupasseparateproperties.Withthecurrentarrangementofstreets,andtheencroachmentoflaterhouses,itishardtogetanideaofwhatitwaslikeforthe1850sresidents.Ifwelooktothesouth,where,mostconvenientlyfortoday’swalk,ahousehasbeendemolished,wecangetafeelingoftheformerlandscape.AlthoughtheiraddressesuntilwellintothetwentiethcenturywereRamsdenSt,thehouseswereorientedtolookdownthehillandacross

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CollingwoodtowardsMelbourne.Withnoencroachinghighbuildings,theywouldhavehadavistathatstretchedformiles.

CharlesBrownlaterlethishousetoabuildercalledWilliamCooperandduringhislongtenancyMissCooperranaprivateschoolwithinthehouse,from1886to1894.Enrolmentsstartedat7,peakedat34in1891,thendropped,perhapsbecauseSpensleyStStateSchoolopenedinDecember1891.Therewerelotsofsmallprivateschoolsinthisera.MrCooperpurchasedSamuelRamsden’ssubdividedlandwhenitwasauctionedin1888.AlaterresidentwasCharlesBatty,awoodandcoalmerchant,whoisbelievedtohaveaddedtheFederationstyleveranda.FordStwasconstructedinthe1920swhenlandsubdivisiontookplace,andwasnamedafteralaterowner,WilliamFord.

ToseeSamuelRamsden’shouseyouwillhavetofirstpeepoverthebackfencesfromFordStforaviewoftheroofs,thenretraceyourstepstoHorneSt,turnleft,leftagainintoRamsdenSt,andleftintoCliftonAvenuetoseethefrontofthebuildings.

27and29CliftonSt.Early1850sstonebuildings.ResidenceofSamuelRamsden.FormeraddressRamsdenSt.

SamuelRamsdenarrivedinMelbournein1844,asajourneymanstonemasonfromYorkshireintendingtomakehisfortune,andsoonsetupbusinesswithCharlesandHenryBrown(friendsfromEngland).Theyhadasuccessfulcontractingandbuildingbusiness,gettingthecontractstoprovidepavinginCollinsSt,workingonYarraBendAsylum,buildingtheNorthMelbourneBenevolentAsylumandmanyotherbuildings.SamuelalsohelpedinthebuildingofthecourthouseinPortland.

RamsdenandtheBrownsacquiredthedeedstoplotsofsuburbanlandinJikaJikain1851.Samuel,afterbuildingwiththeBrownstheearliesthouses(madeofbluestone)inRamsdenSt,wentontootherbusinessesafter1854,notablyaflourmillinCarltonandthefirstpapermilllocatedonthesouthernbankoftheYarrainwhatisnowSouthbank.ItwasaverysuccessfulbusinessandeventuallybecamepartofAPMin1895.ManypeopleinCollingwoodcollectedragsforthepapermillthusprovidingthemselveswithasmallincome.Theragswereusedinthemakingofpaper.Around1855SamuelbuiltFitzroyTerraceinClarendonSt,EastMelbourneandthenasubstantialhousenextdoor,whichhewastoliveinuntilhisdeath.ThesebuildingsweredemolishedfortheMercy&FreemasonsHospitals.HehadalsoacquiredasheeppropertynearHamilton.RamsdenwasaCollingwoodCouncillorin1857-59,andwasparticularlyconspicuouswhenstoneworkwasunderdiscussion.

Hediedin1877survivedbyhissecondwifeandfoursons.Hisfuneralhadacortègeofover120vehiclesandtheMayorofMelbournewasapallbearer.HehadbecomeanimportantbusinessmanofMelbourneandhadmadehisfortune. The1888AuctionBrochureforRamsden’sproperty:http://search.slv.vic.gov.au/MAIN:SLV_VOYAGER1171288

Ifyouareinterestedincricket,youmightliketodetourto50DallySttoseethehomeofJackRyder.ReturntoRamsdenSt

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Untilabout1908,MrsThompson’sdairy,with6cows,occupiedtheblockbetweenCliftonAvenueandMyrtleSt,onabout1¾acresland,withastonehouse.Thelandwaseventuallysubdividedandbythelate1920s,shopsbetweenCliftonAvenueandMyrtleStprovidedmostdailyneeds.TherewereMrsMills,confectionerandgrocer,MrOlding,DryProduce,MrAdams,pastrycook,DJones,hairdresser,JosephEdney,butcher,MrWebb,grocer,MrGuinanegreengrocer,andfinallyanotherbutcherwhosebuildingremains:47RamsdenStreet.Marshall’scornerbutchershopwhichclosedjustafewyearsago.

40RamsdenSt:LookacrosstheroadatClydebank,therathersadlyalteredcornerresidenceofaseriesofCollingwoodnotables:JohnChristopherson,Collingwoodheadmaster;DonaldCampbell,CliftonCollegeprincipal;andtheValefamily.

33RamsdenStreet.Theresidenthaslivedhereallherlife.ShedescribedhermanymemoriesofwhatlifewaslikeinCliftonHill,theshops,theresidents,andrecreationsuchastherollerskatingrinkinGrantSt.SheattendedSpensleyStstateschoolandlatertheCollingwoodSchoolofDomesticEconomyinVereSt.TherewereshopsonboththeGrantStreetcorners:18RamsdenStformerconfectioner’sshop.14RamsdenStsiteofformergrocer’sshop.

WalknorthalongGrantStreettowardsSpensleyStreetThebuildingsinGrantStrepresentamixtureofstylesofvariouseraswhichindicatethedevelopmentofeastCliftonHill,fromformerindustrialsitestohousingstartinginthelate1880sthroughtotheunitsoftoday.

19–29GrantStreet(westside)WilliamBrewerownedalargesawmillandtimberyardherefrom1891formanyyears.By1902thebusinesswasproducingportableironhouses,packingcases,doors,sashes,windowsandotheritemsforhouses,windowframesandmouldingsandusingimportedoregon,deal,walnutandcedaraswellasavarietyofNewZealandandTasmaniantimbers.Italsodealtinironmongery.

Thetimberyardssufferedaverylargefireon15thApril1910.TheattractedalargenumberofspectatorsandthefirealsocauseddamagetotheplatformbuildingsontherailwaystationandhousesinJohnSt.Theinadequatewatersupplymadefightingthefireverydifficult.

Thefactorywasexpandedinthe1920s.Thetallredbrickchimneystilljustvisiblebehindthemodernflatsisthelastreminderofthesawmill.Thechimney,squareinplan,tapersasitrisesandhasacorbelledcap,embellishedwithscallopedwroughtirondecoration.Breweralsohadaplaceat8GrantSt,officesandatimberyardandhousesandanothertimberyardat25-35GrantSt,whichisnorthoftheintersectionwithSpensleyStreet.

WilliamBreweralsoownedhousesinGrantSt(numbers25-35).Thebuildingat29GrantSt(c1910)wasprobablyusedasanofficeandstorefortheBrewersawmillandboxfactory.

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1926 advertisement Brewer’sbusinesswasgoneby1930.Inthe1930sMillsom&SonsPtyLtdwhowereplastermanufacturersoccupiedthissiteanddevelopedpartofitastheCliftonHillRollerSkatingRink(whichopenedin1936).Theyhadfirstconsideredusingitasapicturetheatreordancehall.TheCliftonSchoolofPhysicalCulturewasalsolocatedhere.By1944theRollerSkatingRinkhadgone,andthebuildingwasastoragefacilityfortheDepartmentofImportProcurement.TheSchoolofPhysicalCulturewasreplacedbytheEurekaYouthLeaguein1944andin1948bytheCollingwoodandAbbotsfordAnglingClub,whichwasstilltherein1975.

JJMillerwasalaterproprietorofthesite.By1962Millerwasoperatingaprintingworkswhichwasstilloperatingin1978.J.J.MillerstartedAustralia’sfirstsweepstakesandinlateryearspublishedTheMiller’sGuide,sometimescalledtheAustralianRacingBible,until1952whenitwasacquiredbyTheHeraldandWeeklyTimes.

OntheeastsideofGrantStreetatnumbers10–24,thereisasmallbutdistinguishedgroupofinter-warsemi-detachedvillasthatwerebuiltbetween1938and1940,onlandthathadbeenpartofBrewer’stimberbusiness.NotetheArtDecoinfluenceonthedesignofthevillas.In1956HousingCommissionflatswerebuiltatnumbers5-17.

WalkeastalongSpensleySttowardsBerryStcorner33SpensleySt.Ramsdenbootfactory/Staggglovefactory

Aseriesofbootmakerswerelistedatthissiteintheearly20thcentury,forexamplePeterPhillipsin1910.Itisbelievedthebuildingdatesfromabout1920.Itwasasinglestoreyfactoryconstructedinbrickwithstuccoedparapet.In1930ALRamsden,bootmanufacturer,waslistedhere.Ramsden(norelationtoSamuel)waspreviouslypartnerinthefirmJames&RamsdeninKeeleStreet,Collingwood.Duringthe1930sitbecamethehomeoftheStaggGlovefactory.Localnewspapersgiveglimpsesofitshistory.TheArgus9September1935hasapublicnoticesayingthepartnershipbetweenThomasWilliamStaggandSidneyEdwardRamsdencarryingonthebusinessstyledStaggGloveManufacturinghadbeendissolvedbymutualconsenttobecarriedonbyStaggwithRamsdenretiring.Accordingtotherealestatepages(notalwaysaccurate)theoldStaggGlovefactorymadehelmetsforWW1pilots.StaggdidhowevermakeleatherjacketsforWW2uniforms.

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TheArgus31July1934reported:Shortlybefore8a.m.yesterday,thievesbrokeintothewarehouseofMr….Stagg,glovemanufacturer,Northterrace,CliftonHill,andstole£230worthofleatherovercoatsandjackets.

StaggGloveswasadvertisingforworkersat33SpensleyStinthe1940sandformachinistsasrecentlyas1973.StaggLeathergoodscontinuestodayasawholesalerfromaQueenslandbase,advertisingas:

‘Australia’s leading supplier of Quality Leather Motorcycle Apparel since 1929’34BerryStreet.TheCliftonHillGrammarSchoolwasrunherefrom1893to1901,firstbyMrsJenkinsandthenbyJosephandMaryRoughan.LaterMrRule,whowasborninthehouse,taughtmusichere.28BerryStreet.ThisfinedoublefrontedtwostoreyhousewasthehomeofJohnBrewer.24BerryStreet.ThiswasthehomeofJohnPrescottDyason,theproprietorofDyason’sCordials,whosefactorywesawinOxfordStonlastyear’sWalk.CornerSpensleyandBerrystreets.Anothertypicalearlytwentiethcenturyshoppingcentre.Therewasabutcher’s,dairy,grocer,confectioner,andgreengrocer,butwithinafewyearstherewasalsoanewsagent,hairdresser,tobacconist,draper,hamandbeefshop,chemistandironmonger.AtriptoQueen’sParadeorSmithStreetwouldhavebeennecessaryonlyrarely!Lookupattheparapetsofthesinglestoreyshopsonthesoutheastcornerandyouwillseetheywerebuiltasagroupinthesamestyle.TheRoyalHotel.Thehotelwasbuiltin1889-1890forJohn&JosephineAnderson.Itisanimposingthree-storeybuildingbeinginadecorativeItalianatestyle.ThearchitectwasGeorgeJobbins.Ontheoriginaldesigntherewastobeacornertowerwhichwouldhavemadethishotelanevenmorenotablelandmark.ItnowremainsastheonlythreestoryhotelinCollingwood,afterthedemolitionoftheEarlofZetlandandMac’sHotel.

TheAndersonsquicklybecameinvolvedinthelocalcommunity,especiallyJohn,whowasakeensportsman.HehostedsmokenightsfortheCliftonHill&NorthcoteCyclingClubaswellasbelongingtovariousothersportingclubsliketheCliftonHill&NorthcoteHarriers.TheAndersonsranthehotelformanyyearsandafterJohn’sdeathin1938,hissister-in-lawElizabethGrahamtookoverthelicence.BothElizabethandherbrotherErnest(Josephine’ssiblings)hadworkedinthebarformanyyears.Elizabethgaveupthehotellicencein1941.From1942until1972theHotelwasrunbytheVenticichfamily.EssentiallytheRoyalHotelfromitsbeginningstothepresentday,hasbeenrunbythreefamilies.

IfyouwanttowalkfurtheralongSpensleyStreet,lookforthefollowing:57SpensleySt,builtasacornershopaspartofaterraceoftwostoreyhouses;itwasagrocer’sorgreengrocer’sformanyyears.77ASpensleySt.formerfactoryofSidchromefrom1934to1959;thesitehasbeenre-developedashousingbutpartofthetwostoreyfactoryisstillthere.

ThereisanothergroupofshopsonthecornerofFenwickSt,includinganotherbranchofMarshall’sbutcher’s,adairy,andaconfectionerandpastrycook.)

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SourcesandFurtherReadingGENERALSandsandMcDougalldirectoriesCityofCollingwoodratebooksBarrett,TheinnersuburbsMelbourneUniversityPress,Carlton,1971.Cummings,KarenT,Bitterroots,sweetfruit:ahistoryofschoolsinCollingwood,AbbotsfordandCliftonHill,CollingwoodHistoricalSociety,Abbotsford,2008.ginal and historical Hall,Roger,MerriCreekParklands:Aboriginalandhistoricalheritagesurvey,MerriCreekCo-ordinatingCommitteeLaTrobeUniversity,1989.Hibbins,G.M,AshorthistoryofCollingwood,CollingwoodHistoricalSociety,Abbotsford,1997.Inthosedays:Collingwoodremembered,CarringbushRegionalLibraryinassociationwiththeCityofCollingwood,Richmond,1994.Stremski,Richard,KillforCollingwood,Allen&Unwin,Sydney,1986.Sutherland,Alexander,Victoriaanditsmetropolis:pastandpresent,2vols,McCarronBird,Melbourne,1888.www.collingwoodhs.org.au

MAPSMelbourneanditssuburbs,compiledbyJamesKearney,draughtsman,AndrewClark,SurveyorGeneral,1855.MelbourneandMetropolitanBoardofWorksmapsanddetailplans(availableStateLibraryofVictoria).Detailplans1223,1224,1225,1276,1277availableonlineSLV.

ABORIGINALHISTORYEidelson,M2014,MelbourneDreaming:aguidetoimportantplacesofthepastandpresent,Secondedition,AboriginalStudiesPress,Canberra(pp72-3);Clark,I&Heydon,T2004,AbendintheYarra:AhistoryoftheMerriCreekProtectorateStationandMerriCreekAboriginalSchool1841-51,AboriginalStudiesPress,Canberra;TroveTheColonist(Sydney)Sat24October1840,p2,3.Ellender,IsabelPeopleoftheMerriMerri:theWurundjeriincolonialdays,MerriCreekManagementCommittee,EastBrunswick,2001.ForfurtherreadingontheLettsomRaidseehttp://www.emelbourne.net.au/biogs/EM00849b.htm

GooglebookColonizationandtheoriginsofhumanitariangovernance

http://ro.uow.edu.au/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1281&context=ltc]

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QUARRIESReport into the 1934 explosion at the quarry – The Argus Monday 30th April 1934. http://www.yarracity.vic.gov.au/Planning--Building/studies-strategies-and-guidelines/heritage-studies/https://blessedbluestone.wordpress.com September 20, 2011 post: Bluestone Quarrying in Melbourne.

ASYLUMhttp://trove.nla.gov.au/work/37675958?q&versionId=17666966http://www.yarracity.vic.gov.au/Libraries/Local-history/History-of-the-City-of-Yarra/

ABATTOIRShttp://www.yarracity.vic.gov.au/DownloadDocument.ashx?DocumentID=589http://www.yarracity.vic.gov.au/DownloadDocument.ashx?DocumentID=1779

BREWER’STIMBERViewsofBrewer’sTimberYardFire:www.slv.vic.gov.au/pictoria/gid/slv-pic-aab66294(black&whitepicture)http://search.slv.vic.gov.au/MAIN:SLV_VOYAGER1805754 (colourpictures)ArticleonfireinKalgoorlieWesternArgus19thApril1910p.35:

trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/33335289VA2904DepartmentofPublicHealth,VPRS7882/P1Unit931PublicBuildingFile7947SkatingRink.

STAGGLEATHERVines,GandChurchward,M1992,NorthernSuburbsFactoryStudy,HistoricBuildingsCouncilandMelbourne’sLivingMuseumoftheWestInc.p.241http://www.domain.com.au/news/house-of-the-week-20150205-136yna/

http://www.warrelics.eu/forum/uniforms/ww2-ww1-australian-made-issued-jerkin-572318/

http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/10969461

http://www.staggleathergoods.com