chapter 23 facials. 2 skin analysis & consultation skin analysis is one of the most important...

Chapter 23

Facials

2

Skin Analysis & Consultation

• Skin Analysis is one of the most important parts of the facial service because it determines what type of skin the client has, the condition of the skin and what type of treatment the client’s skin requires

• Consultation allows you the opportunity to ask the client questions about their health and skin as well as advise them about the appropriate products and treatments

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Intake Form

During the consultation a client will fill out an intake form that will ask many health questions that will allow you to identify any contradictions

• Contradiction is a condition the client has, or a treatment the client is undergoing, that might cause a negative side effect during the facial treatment. Example: a client using Retin-A should not receive any waxing or exfoliation procedures

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Main Contradictions• Use of Accutane, Retin-A, Renova, Tazorac, or Differin – NO Waxing,

Exfoliating, Peeling or Stimulating treatments

• Pregnancy – No electrical treatments

• Metal pins or plates – No electrical treatments

• Pacemakers / Heart Irregularities – No electrical treatments

• Allergies – always use non-fragranced products for sensitive skin

• Seizures or Epilepsy – No electrical or light treatments

• Oral Steroids (Prednisone) – No stimulating or exfoliating treatments, No waxing

• Autoimmune disease (lupus) – No stimulating treatments

• Diabetes – No services without physicians approval. Diabetics heal very slowly

• Blood Thinners – No waxing or extractions

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When in doubt – DON’T

A cosmetologist DOES NOT treat skin diseases. However, as a professional, you must be able to recognize the presence of various skin aliments in order to suggest that the client seek medical advice from a physician

After a skin analysis and consultation if you have any doubts DO NOT provide the service & refer the client to a physician

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Skin Type

Is determined by how oily or dry the skin is

Skin type is hereditary

Skin type can not be permanently changed with treatments, although the skin may look considerable better after treatment

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Skin Types

Oily

Dry

Normal

Combination Dry

Combination Oily

Acne

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Skin Condition

Are characteristics of the skin associated with a particular skin type

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Skin Conditions

• Oily – open & closed comedones, clogged pores, shiny, thick appearance

• Dry – aka “alipidic” tight, poreless looking, dehydrated with fine lines and wrinkles, dry and rough to the touch

• Normal – very unusual (most common is combination skin)

• Combination Dry – may have clogged pores in the nose, chin and center of forehead. Dry , poreless towards the outside edges of the face

• Combination Oily – comedones, clogged pores or obvious pores in the center of the face (T-zone)

• Acne – presence of numerous open and closed comedones, clogged pores, and red papules and pustules

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Skin Conditions Cont’d

Hyperpigmentation – dark blotches of color, caused by sun exposure or hormone imbalances

Treated with mild exfoliation and home care products that discourage pigmentation

Daily use of sunscreen and avoidance of sun exposure are very important for this skin type

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Skin Conditions Cont’d

Sensitive skin has a tin, red-pink look and is easily inflamed by some skin care products

Avoid strong products, fragranced products or strong exfoliates

Rosacea is chronic hereditary disorder that can be indicated by constant or frequent facial blushing. It is considered a medical disorder and should be diagnosed by a dermatologist. Client should be treated with products specially formulated for rosacea

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Dry Skin

Otherwise known as Alipidic – “lack of lipids”

Dehydrated skin can be flaky with small fine lines and wrinkles

Dehydration can be caused from lack of care, over-drying skin care products, sun exposure, lack of water intake

Dehydrated skin is treated by using hydrators that help to bind water to the skin surface

Proper hydration will result in smoother-looking and softer skin

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Oily Skin

Produces too much sebum

Will have large pores

Skin may appear shiny or greasy

Pores may be clogged from dead cells building up in the hair follicles

There may be open comedones or closed comedones

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Open vs. Closed Comedones

Open comedones are blackheads, they are a mixture of solidified sebum and dead cell buildup stuck in the follicles

Closed comedones are small bumps just underneath the skin surface

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Acne

The presence of pimples in oily areas indicates acne

Acne is a disorder in which the follicles become clogged, resulting in infection of the follicle with redness and inflammation

Acne bacteria are anaerobic, which means that they cannot survive in the presence of oxygen. Follicles are blocked with solidified sebum and dead-cell buildup, oxygen cannot readily get to the bottom of the follicle where acne bacteria live.

• Acne papules are red pimples that do not have a pus head

Pimples with a pus head are called pustules

Pus is a fluid inside a pustule, largely made up of dead white blood cells that tried to fight the infection

CAUTION – always wear gloves when performing extractions because acne skin contains infectious matter

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Skin Care Products

Skin care products are classified into 6 main categories:

• *Cleansers

• *Toners

• *Exfoliants

• *Treatments

• *Masks

• *Moisturizers

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Cleansers

Are designed to clean the surface of the skin and to remove make-up

Cleansing Milks – are non-foaming lotions. Designed to cleanse dry and sensitive skin

Foaming Cleansers – contain detergents that cause the product to foam and rinse easily. Designed for combination or oily skin types. Some have antibacterial ingredients for acne-prone skin

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Toners

AKA- Freshners or Astringents

Helps close the pores and pH balance the skin

Sometimes contain ingredients to help remove dead cells

Applied with cotton pads or sprayed onto the face

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Exfoliants

Remove excess dead cells from the skin surface, the skin will look smoother and clearer

Help to clear the skin of clogged pores and can improve the appearance of wrinkles, aging, and hyperpigmentation

2 main categories:

• mechanical

• chemical

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Mechanical Exfoliants

Granular scrubs

Gommage – roll-off masks

Microdermabrasion

Skin brushing

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Chemical Exfoliant

Either loosen or dissolve dead cell buildup

Can be used for a short time, although some may be worn as a day or night treatment

Alpha Hydroxy or Beta Hydroxy Acids

Wrinkles appear less deep, skin discolorations fade, clogged pores are loosened and reduced, and new clogged pores are prevented

These acids encourage cell renewal, resulting in firmer and healthier-looking skin

Enzymes peels which dissolve keratin in the surface cells

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Proper exfoliation may improve the appearance of the skin in the

following waysReduced clogged and oily skin

Promotes skin smoothness

Increases moisture content and hydration

Reduces hyperpigmentation

Decreases uneven skin color

Eliminates or softens wrinkles and fine lines

Increases elasticity

Speeds up cell turnover

Allows for better penetration of treatment creams and serums

Make-up applies more evenly

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Moisturizers

Help increase the moisture content of the skin surface

Help the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles

Allows for a smoother make-up application

Protects the skin from environmental damage

Mixtures of humectants or water-binding agents and emollients or fatty ingredients that prevent moisture from leaving the skin

Moisturizers for oily skin contain significantly less emollients

Moisturizers for dry skin contain more emollients and are often heavier

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Sunscreens

Shield skin from sun exposure

Cumulative sun exposure causes the majority of skin cancers, and prematurely ages the skin

Every client should be instructed to use a daily sunscreen. Look for daily moisturizers that contain broad-spectrum sunscreens, which means that they protect against both UVA and UVB sunrays. An SPF-15 or higher is considered to be adequate strength

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Treatments

Serums or ampoules are concentrated products that generally contain higher amounts of ingredients that have an effect on skin appearance

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Masks

Products that are applied to the skin for a short time, but have more immediate effects

Clay Masks

used for oily skin, oil absorbing

make large pores appear smaller.

They may contain sulfur which is an antibacterial ingredient to treat acne-prone skin

Cream Masks

do not dry on the skin

contain emollients and humectants

have a strong moisturizing effect

Gel Masks

for sensitive skin

help plump surface cells

Alginate Masks

seaweed based

come in a powder form

dry to a rubberized texture

they create a seal that encourages the skin’s absorption of serums or creams

Paraffin Masks

Apply over creams or serums

the heat allows for a deeper penetration into the surface layers of the skin

Modelage Mask

Contain special crystals of gypsum a plaster like ingredient

When mixed with water it creates a chemical reaction where it heats up and hardens

The heat increases blood circulation and is very beneficial for dry skin

Not recommended for sensitive skin, oily skin , or blemished skin

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Massage

• Is the manual or mechanical manipulation of the body by rubbing, gently pinching, kneading, tapping, and other movements to increase metabolism and circulation, promote absorption and relieve pain. It also helps to keep the skin healthy and their muscles firm

• It is important that when you are giving a massage that you use a firm sure touch

• Keep your hands soft by using creams and lotions. File and shape your nails to avoid scratching your client’s skin

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Massage Cont’d

• The impact of massage treatment depends on the amount of pressure, the direction of movement, and the duration of each type of manipulation involved

• The direction of movement is always from the insertion to origin

• Massaging a muscle in the wrong direction could result in a loss of resilience and sagging of the skin and muscles

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Basic Massage Manipulations Effleurage

• Light continuous stroking movements applied with the fingers in a slow, rhythmic manner

• No pressure is used

• Palms work the large surface, while the cushions of the fingertips work the small surfaces

• Used on the forehead, face, scalp, back, shoulder, neck, chest, arms, and hands

• It has soothing and relaxing effects and should begin and end every massage

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Basic Massage Manipulations Petrissage

• Kneading movement performed by lifting, squeezing, and pressing the tissue with a light, firm pressure

• Petrissage offers deeper stimulation to the muscles, nerves and skin glands and improve circulation

• Usually limited to the back, shoulders, and arms

• Digital kneading can also be used on the cheeks with light pinching movements, pressure should be light but firm

• Movements must be rhythmic and never jerky

• Fulling is a form of petrissage in which the tissue is grasped, gently lifted, and spread out, used mainly for massaging the arms

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Basic Massage Manipulations Friction

• Deep rubbing movement in which you apply pressure on the skin with your fingers or palms while moving it over an underlying structure

• Significant benefit on the circulation and glandular activity of the skin

• Typically used on the scalp, arms, and hands

• Chucking, rolling and wringing are variations of friction, and are used mainly to massage the arms and legs

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Basic Massage Manipulations Tapotement

• AKA- “percussion”

• Short, quick tapping, slapping, and hacking movements

• Most stimulating and should be applied with care and discretion

• Tone the muscles and impart a healthy glow to the are being massaged

• In facial massage, use only light digital tapping. Bring the fingertips down against the skin in rapid succession

• Hacking is a form of tapotement in which chopping movements are performed with the edges of the hands. Used only to massage the back, shoulders, and arms

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Basic Massage Manipulations Vibration

• Rapid shaking of the body part while the balls of the fingertips are pressed firmly on the point of application

• A highly relaxing movement that should be applied at the end of the massage

• It increases muscle tone in the muscles of the body

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Effects of Massage

• To obtain proper results from massage, you must have a thorough knowledge of the structures involved, including muscles, nerves, connective tissues, and blood vessels.

• Every muscle has a motor point, which is a point on the skin over the muscle where pressure or stimulation will cause contraction of that muscle

• Relaxation is achieved through light but firm, slow, rhythmic movements, or very slow, light hand vibrations over the motor points for a short time. Another technique is to pause briefly over the motor points, using light pressure

4203/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Motor Points

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Facial Manipulations

• The best manipulations to use on the face are that an even tempo, or rhythm, brings on relaxation

• Do not remove your hands from the client’s face once you have started the manipulations

• Should it become necessary to remove your hands, feather them off, then gently replace them with feather-like movements


Chin Movement

• Lift the chin using a slight pressure


Lower Cheek

• Using a circular movement, rotate from chin to ears


Mouth, nose, & cheek

• Follow diagram


Linear movement over the forehead

• Slide fingers to the temples and then stroke up to hairline, gradually moving your hands across the forehead to the right eyebrow


Circular movement over the forehead

• Starting at the eyebrow line work across the middle of the forehead and then toward the hairline


Crisscross Movement

• Start at one side of the forehead and work back


Stroking

• Slide your fingers towards the center of the forehead and then draw your fingers, with slight pressure, toward the temples and rotate


Brow and eye movement

• Place your middle fingers at the inner corners of the eyes and your index fingers over the brows. Slide them towards the outer corners of the eyes, under the eyes, and then back to the inner corners


Nose and upper cheek movement

• Slide your fingers down the nose. Apply a rotary movement across the cheeks to the temples and rotate gently. Slide your fingers under the eyes and then back to the bridge of the nose


Mouth and nose movement

• Apply a circular movement from the corners of the mouth up to the sides of the nose. Slide your fingers over the brows and then down to the corners of the mouth up to the sides of the nose. Follow by sliding your fingers over the brows and down to the corners of the mouth again


Mouth & Nose Movement


Lip and chin movement

• From the center of the upper lip, draw your fingers around the mouth, going under the lower lip and chin


Optional Movement

• Hold the head with your left hand, and draw the fingers of your right hand from under the lower lip and around mouth, moving to the center of the upper lip


Lifting movement of the cheeks

• Proceed from the mouth to the ears and then from the nose to the top part of the ears


Rotary Movement of the cheeks

• Massage from the chin to the ear lobes, from the mouth to the middle of the ears, and from the nose to the top of the ears


Light tapping movement

• Work from the chin to the earlobe, from the mouth to the ear, from the nose to the top of the ear, and then across the forehead. Repeat on the other side


Stroking movement of the neck

• Apply light upward strokes over the front of the neck. Use heavier pressure on the sides of the neck in downward strokes


Circular movement over the neck and chest

• Starting at the back of the ears, apply a circular movement down the side of the neck, over the shoulders, and across the chest

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Male Skin

• Not all that different from female skin

• Needs more attention in the areas of the face where there is hair growth

• Use downward motions in the area of beard growth

Facial Equipment - Magnifying Lamp

used to analyze skin

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Facial Equipment - Steamer

• Helps to soften the tissue, making it more accepting of moisturizers and other treatment products.

• Steam also helps to relax and soften follicle accumulations such as comedones and clogged follicles, making them easier to extract

• Precautions should be taken with clients who have asthma or other breathing disorders

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Facial Equipment – Brushing Machine

• Rotating electrical appliance with interchangeable brushes that can be attached to the rotating head.

• Larger and stiffer brushes are used for back treatments

• Smaller softer brushes are used for the face

• form of exfoliation

• Administered after steaming

• A thick layer of cleansing cream should be applied so the brushes will not scratch the face

• Brushes must be thoroughly cleansed and disinfected between clients

Facial Brushing Machine

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Facial Equipment – Suction & Spray

• The skin suction machine increases circulation

• spray machine can be used on any type skin to deliver lotions or toners

Electrodes

Electrode – an applicator for directing the electric current from the machine to the client’s skin

Anode – positive electrode usually red or indicated by a + sign

Cathode – negative electrode usually black or indicated by a - sign

Electrotherapy

• Use of electrical currents to treat the skin

• Galvanic & High Frequency

• Desincrustation – process of softening and emulsifying hardened sebum stuck in the hair follicles

• Iontophoresis – process of using galvanic current to enable water-soluble products that contain ions to penetrate the skin

Galvanic

• Current forces the product deeper into the follicle

• Current also produces a chemical reaction that helps to loosen the impacted sebum.

Microcurrent

*Type of galvanic

*Best know for helping tone skin & produce a lifting effect for aging skin that lacks elasticity

Tesla High Frequency

• can be used to stimulate the blood flow and help products penetrate

• Can be applied after extractions for acne prone skin b/c of its germicidal effects

• Electrodes are made of glass and contain various types of gas such as neon, which light up as a color when current is flowing through them

Light Therapy

• Using light exposure to treat conditions of the skin

• LED – Light Emitting Diode

• Concentrated light that flashes very rapidly

• Red Light – treats aging and redness

• Blue Light – treats acne-prone skin

Microdermabrasion

• A type of mechanical exfoliation uses a closed vacuum to shoot aluminum-oxide crystals onto the skin, bumping off cell buildup that is then vacuumed up by a suction

• It is primarily used to treat wrinkles and aging skin

Extractions


Facial Treatments

• Fall into two categories• Preservative – maintains the health of

the facial skin by cleansing correctly, increasing circulation, relaxing the nerves, and activating the skin glands and metabolism through massage

• Corrective – correct certain facial skin conditions, such as dryness, oiliness, comedones, aging lines, and monor conditions of acne

Facial Treatments

• Fall into two categories

• Preservative – maintains the health of the facial skin by cleansing correctly, increasing circulation, relaxing the nerves, and activating the skin glands and metabolism through massage

• Corrective – correct certain facial skin conditions, such as dryness, oiliness, comedones, aging lines, and monor conditions of acne

Preparation

• Set up your room for client, have all your supplies, bed made, soft music, light candle

• Wash your hands

• Greet client

• Conduct consultation

• Show client to dressing room

• Assist client onto the facial table

• Drape the clients head

• Wash your hands

• Place cotton over their eyes and examine skin under magnifying lamp

• Apply cotton pads with eye-make remover over the clients eyes

• Use cotton pad with make-up remover to cleanse clients lips

• Gently stroke the eyes to remove make-up

• Apply cleanser and use sweeping movements to cleanse the skin in upward motions

• Remove cleanser

• Analyze skin to determine the rest of the products to be used for facial

Facial Procedure

• Optional – eyebrow arching

• Steam the face

• Perform extractions

• Exfoliate

• Remove exfoliant

• Massage the face using all facial manipulations

• Remove massage cream

• Apply mask

• Remove mask

• Apply toner

• Apply specialty serums / eye creams

• Apply moisturizer

Clean Up & Sanitation

• Remove head covering and show client to dressing room

• Discard all disposable supplies

• Close product containers tightly

• Place used linens in the hamper

• Sanitize your workstation

• Disinfect your tools

• Wash your hands

• Meet your client and take them to the reception area where you should discuss their home care system, make sure that you provide them with written instructions to take home

chapter 23 facials. 2 skin analysis & consultation skin analysis is one of the most important...

Documents

type of skin

skin diseases

skin isskin type

client questions

clogged pores

type of treatment

obvious pores

appropriate products