chapter 11: aveda skin refinement and balancing techniques · 2017. 9. 21. · chapter 11: aveda...

chapter 11:

aveda skin refinement and balancing techniques

chapter 11:aveda skin refinem

ent and balancing techniq

ues

aveda skin refinement theory

aveda skin refining ingredients

balancing the skin

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table of contents Participant Guide

aveda skin refinement and balancing techniques

1: aveda skin refinement theory

1 Section overview 2 Aveda skin refinement theory 2 Desquamation 2 Over-exfoliation 3 Commonly asked questions

2: aveda skin refining ingredients

5 Aveda skin refining ingredients 5 Mechanical methods 6 Biochemical methods 9 Commonly asked questions

3: balancing the skin

12 Aveda skin-balancing theory 14 Aveda skin-balancing techniques 16 Commonly asked questions 17 Measurement of acquired knowledge, theory 19 Measurement of acquired knowledge, techniques

the art and science of esthiology | participant guide01/2010

Chapter 11 | Aveda Skin Care Facial Fundamentals Aveda Skin Refinement and Balancing Techniques

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this section covers:

• Aveda Skin Refinement Theory• Aveda skin refining ingredients• Aveda refinement formulations

aveda skin refinement techniques

In order to perform the refinement portion of the Aveda facial treatment, it is important to understand how refinement formulations exfoliate the surface of the skin. This section covers Aveda Skin Refinement Theory and Aveda Signature Refinement Formulations. Once you have studied this information and experienced the learning activities with other participants, you should be able to reach the objectives outlined below.

learning objectives

• To describe Aveda Skin Refinement Theory• To describe different methods for refining the skin• To formulate skin refinement formulas using Aveda products• To describe which formulations are best for varying skin conditions

homeplay

when you have read the information in this section, you should be able to answer the following questions:

1. What does skin refinement mean and why is it important?

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2. What is the difference between mechanical and biochemical refinement processes?

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section overview


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study points:

4skin refinement theory

4 desquamation

4 over-exfoliation

aveda skin refinement theory

The goal of skin refinement is to create a smoother, more even skin surface. Not only does the skin look healthier overall, but it also more readily accepts treatment products, moisturizers, and corrective masques. Refinement also helps remove the horny, dry, outermost layer of the epidermis. This prepares the pores for blackhead removal or the purging of other impurities during the facial treatment.

desquamation

Our skin sheds about five billion skin cells a day. Skin cells start out in the basal layer of the skin, round and plump. Gradually they get flatter as they move upward toward the stratum corneum in the epidermis. Dermatologists have named this process desquamation. Transit time varies per skin cell; in teens, the desquamation process may take as little as 12 to 19 days; in mature adults, it may take 60 to 90 days. The longer the process, the older and flatter the cells when they arrive at the skin’s surface. That is why skin gets duller as we age.

When dull cells clutter the outer layer of skin, they need to be polished off or dissolved. That process is called refinement, or exfoliation. Exfoliation removes follicular debris (oil, dirt, bacteria, and dead skin cells), which helps clear up breakout- and acne-prone skin. Recent research also shows that skin refinement may activate the production of collagen fibers in the dermal layer of the skin. These fibers give the skin strength.

over-exfoliation

Skin inflammation ages the skin by encouraging the formation of free radicals. Keep in mind that exfoliating too often, especially with harsh and abrasive ingredients, can inflame the skin. Inflammation then ushers in free radicals, which damage healthy skin tissue.

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2the art and science of esthiology | participant guide

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commonly asked questions

1. Why does skin need to be refined? The goal of skin refinement is to create a smoother, more even skin surface. Not only does the skin look healthier overall, but it also more readily accepts treatment products, moisturizers, and corrective masques. Refinement also helps remove the horny, dry, outermost layer of the epidermis. This prepares the pores for blackhead removal or the purging of other impurities during the facial treatment.

2. What is desquamation? During the process of desquamation, skin cells start out in the basal layer of the skin, round and plump. Gradually they get flatter as they move upward toward the stratum corneum in the epidermis. Transit time varies per skin cell, and the longer the process, the older and flatter the cells are when they arrive at the skin’s surface. That is why skin gets duller as we age.

3. What are the four different words for refinement? Refinement, exfoliation, gommage, and peeling all mean the same thing: removal of follicular debris (oil, dirt, bacteria, and dead skin cells) from the skin.

4. How many skin cells does the body shed per day? Five billion.

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notes

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microdermabrasion

This superficial skin-polishing method works best on acne scars, chickenpox scars, hyper-pigmentation, small facial scars, sun-damaged skin, uneven texture, and fine lines. At Aveda, we don’t use microdermabrasion in professional skin treatments, because we know that stress can contribute to some of these skin challenges, so we address that instead. In some cases, mechanical exfoliating methods can add stress to the skin and produce negative side effects.


study points:

4mechanical methods

biochemical methods

aveda skin refining ingredients

Laboratories are constantly developing new types of skin care ingredients and accessories to help estheticians and dermatologists refine the skin more effectively. Despite all the new options, some centuries-old skin-refining ingredients still work well today. But whether the processes are old or new, they fall within two basic categories: mechanical or biochemical. Mechanical processes involve scraping, scrubbing and rubbing whereas biochemical processes are all about dissolving.

mechanical methods

an array of accessories help scrape off the dry, outer skin cells, including: • Electrical facial treatment brushes• Manual (handheld) facial treatment brushes• “Buff-Puff” type items• Loofahs—both natural and synthetic• Nylon clothes or gloves (mainly used for body exfoliation)• Body brushes

Several mechanical processes also help with skin refinement. One is called microdermabrasion, a procedure that blasts aluminum oxide crystals (or other natural particles) onto the skin and simultaneously vacuums them away into a waste container. Somewhat like sandblasting the skin in a gentle way, it smooths and evens up the complexion. Microdermabrasion is also performed for mild scarring and hyper-pigmentation.

Estheticians can also use abrasive products and cleansers to polish and/or scrub away surface skin cells. These products must be applied gently, using fingertips and circular movements. Mechanical accessories help, too.

dvd: the art and science of esthiology

mechanical product ingredients

• Walnut • Almond• Oatmeal• Silica-bead scrubs• Pumice• Bamboo extract • Dead Sea salts • Epsom salts• Rolling creams/gommage

mechanical methods

• Mechanical accessories• Mechanical cleansers• Microdermabrasion• Abrasive products



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study points:

mechanical methods

4 biochemical methods

salicylic acid

Aveda uses salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid, in refinement formulas because of its effective, gentle nature.

biochemical methods

Estheticians can also remove dead skin with ingredients that dissolve rather than scrape or scrub. These ingredients vary and work on different aspects of the skin.

alpha- and beta-hydroxy acidsAcids have been skin care ingredients for centuries. For instance, Cleopatra bathed in milk (lactic acid) to keep her skin soft and smooth.

Both alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids help dissolve the lipid barrier between dead skin cells. But alpha-hydroxy acids have a smaller molecular size (two carbon atom), so they penetrate the skin more readily. This makes them highly effective but also potentially irritating. Aveda’s research has shown that beta-hydroxy acids don’t “exhaust” the skin as quickly. BHAs are shown to work with the same efficacy over time.

enzymesEven centuries ago in Ancient Rome, enzymes helped beautify the skin. An ancient poem, the first written indication of their use, describes a skin care masque made with saliva, which is full of digestive enzymes. Today, salons use enzyme peels to improve tone and texture, minimize pores, and prepare the skin for extractions.

Enzymes are complex organic substances produced in plants and animals that speed up chemical reactions in cells. Each enzyme acts upon a specific substance (or substrate) for specific, controlled reactions. Some enzymes are active in a broad range of pH; others, in a narrower range.

naturally occurring alpha-hydroxy acids

• Sour milk (lactic acid) • Sugar cane (glycolic acid)• Apples (malic acid) • Grapes (tartaric acid) • Citrus fruits (citric acid)



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study points:

mechanical methods


alpha vs. beta

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA)dissolve in water; beta-hydroxy acids (BHA) dissolve in oil.

Beta-hydroxy acids can penetrate pores, where sebum and dead skin cells build up. These acids work best on oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads.

Alpha-hydroxy acids work best on thickened, sun-damaged skin with few breakouts.

biochemical methods continued

Plant enzymes come from different parts of the plant; animal enzymes come directly from animal glands. For example, the enzyme lipase comes from the pancreatic glands of hogs. Scientists recreate these for skin care using bacteria and fungi cultures in the lab.

Some enzymes digest only dead skin-cell material. Others, such as papain from papaya and bromelain enzyme from pineapple, may also break down some live skin cells. These plant enzymes require care because they can potentially irritate the skin.

Most skin care enzymes are proteolytic and are called protease. Protease breaks down proteins and keratin in the skin. Lipolytic enzymes, or lipase, act on lipids in the follicular plugs of comedones.

Proteolytic-enzyme peels work differently than Alpha-hydroxy acid peels, but both achieve the same results. Alpha-hydroxy acid breaks down the corneocyte cohesion between skin cells, whereas protease breaks down the corneocytes themselves.

aveda biofermentation technologyNew high-tech advances in exfoliation involve a process called biofermentation. Biofermented sugar derived from corn renews and refines the skin by removing the dead skin cells that dull the epidermis. Aveda Tourmaline Charged Radiance Fluid and Aveda Tourmaline Charged Radiance Masque both stem from biofermentation. Other ingredients include powerful anti-oxidant blends that protect and strengthen skin from free radicals and environmental aggressors. (Blends could include Vitamins C and E, organic aloe barbadensis leaf, green tea leaf, and the super-charged tomato extract lycopene.) Another ingredient is clary sage, which acts as a conductor and activates other ingredients at just the right time to induce natural cell-turnover.


remember

Any time you use skin care preparations with a high level of botanical ingredients, you are getting enzyme activity naturally (for example, Aveda’s Disencrustation Formula).



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study points:

mechanical methods


biochemical methods continued

the modified jessner peelSome licensed estheticians perform this hybrid exfoliation treatment, but mostly in doctor’s offices. It combines alpha-and beta-hydroxy acids (lactic and salicylic) and resorcinol (a keratolytic agent with antiseptic, astringent, and anti-bacterial components). Since this is such an aggressive treatment, doctors use it to prepare the skin for deeper peels.

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doctors only perform

Dermabrasion: A rotating wire brush removes tissue to the dermal layer.

Laser abrasion: A CO2 pulse laser reaches the dermal layer.

Phenol or Carbolic acid peels:Acid burns off the epidermis and dermis to rid face of deeper lines and scars.

TCA peels: Peels that use trichloracetic acid (30 to 70 percent) and may affect dermal layer, depending on the strength.

AHA peels: Peels that use glycolic acid; estheticians use this method as well.

max jessner

This German American dermatologist, born November 2, 1887, in Stolp, Pommerania, created the Jessner Peel more than 40 years ago. He specialized in studying immunology and protozoan diseases.



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1. What is the difference between mechanical and biochemical refinement methods? Mechanical refinement methods use scraping and scrubbing to rid the epidermis of dead skin cells; biochemical methods use dissolving methods.

2. What do I need to know about alpha-and beta-hydroxy acids? Both alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids help dissolve the lipid barrier between dead skin cells but alpha-hydroxy acids are water soluble, whereas beta-hydroxy acids are oil soluble. Alpha-hydroxy acids have a smaller molecular size, so they penetrate the skin more readily. This makes them highly effective but also potentially irritating. Aveda’s research has shown that beta-hydroxy acids don’t “exhaust” the skin as quickly. BHAs are shown to work with the same efficacy over time.

3. What do the names of enzymes actually mean? Protease is a proteolytic enzyme; lipase is a lipolytic enzyme. Proteolytic enzymes devour proteins, whereas lipolytic enzymes dissolve lipids.

4. How do fermenting processes help the skin? Biofermentation means that a natural product, such as corn, breaks down into sugars through fermentation, and those sugars renew and refine the skin by removing the dead skin cells that dull the epidermis.

5. Why is over-exfoliation a problem? Wouldn’t it be a good thing to keep sloughing off more and more skin? Research by dermatologist Nick Perricone indicates that skin inflammation ages the skin by encouraging the formation of free radicals. Keep in mind that exfoliating too often, especially with harsh and abrasive ingredients, can inflame the skin. Inflammation then ushers in free radicals, which damage healthy skin tissue.

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notes

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this section covers:

• Balancing the skin

aveda treatment

Estheticians can start to correct guest’s skin conditions with essential oils specifically blended for each condition. Aveda refers to this practice as skin balancing. Masque therapy also helps improve skin and is a part of each Aveda facial treatment. To successfully meet each guest’s needs, you should be able to determine, formulate, and apply the appropriate masque. Toning the skin is another important part of the facial treatments. (Aveda toners are very hydrating to the skin, unlike many toners that strip the skin.)

This section covers skin balancing, masques, toning the skin, and how to choose and apply Aveda skin products during a facial treatment. Once you have studied this information and experienced the learning activities with other participants, you should be able to reach the objectives outlined below.

learning objectives

• To use Aveda essential oil blends and Aveda Skin-Balancing Techniques to correct skin imbalances

homeplay

when you have read the information in this section, you should be able to answer the following questions:

1. What does the term “skin balancing” refer to?

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2. Why do Aveda facial treatments include treatment masques, hydrating toners, and other treatment products?

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section overview



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3. balancing the skin

study points:

4skin-balancing theory

skin-balancing techniques

aveda skin-balancing theory

After thoroughly cleansing and exfoliation of the skin (and before any massage procedure), perform the Aveda Skin-Balancing Techniques. These involve applying specialized blends of Aveda essential oils in customized bases to the face, neck, and décolleté. Aveda essential oil blends correct skin imbalances caused by seasonal and other outside factors.

The Aveda Skin-Balancing Techniques work on two levels. First, the aroma of the essential oils affects the psychology of the guest, enhancing mood and emotion. Second, the direct application of the blend to the skin has a physiological benefit.

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study points:

4skin-balancing theory

skin-balancing techniques

aveda skin-balancing theory continued

The skin balancing technique is performed in both Aveda Elemental Nature and treatment facials and plays a critical role in the success of the treatment in order to bring about a positive change in the skin. All aspects of the facial treatment performed prior to this step have prepared and cleansed the skin on different levels, from cleansing through to skin refinement. The skin is now properly prepared to receive the maximum benefits of the aromatic essential oil blend which will best balance the individual needs of the skin. This process is one of the most important steps of the facial treatment and needs to be performed correctly for the results to be most effective. Take the appropriate amount of time to perform this process in its entirety accurately. When performed correctly the skin should have a natural glow to it upon completion without looking oily, greasy or wet. Every procedure following this process will be focused on correcting the imbalances that were identified during the consultation and skin analysis. The process includes the décolleté, neck and facial areas.

The Aveda skin-balancing technique is divided into two different application procedures. The first, applying the essential oil blend to specific areas of the décolleté, neck and face followed by the water application technique. The water application has both a physiological and psychological effect. The warm water intensifies the aroma of the essential oil blend while hydrating the skin. This intense aromatic experience will elicit a deep inhalation from the guest which will positively affect the autonomic nervous system and enhance the skin absorption of the essential oil blend.

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study points:

skin-balancing theory

4skin-balancing techniques

aveda skin-balancing techniques

essential oil blend application:1. Select the Aveda infusion or essential oil blend most appropriate to the

skin’s elemental nature.

2. Remove the cap and hold the bottle in your right hand while you rest your left hand, palm up, on the midline of the décolleté just above the guest’s gown.

3. Dispense one drop of the blend onto the pad of the tip of the middle finger of your left hand, turn your left hand over and massage the blend into the skin with concentric circles stay remaining at the midline.

4. Maintain contact and follow this application process for each area identified below: • Midline of décolleté • Right axilla • Left axilla • Neck • Chin • Right cheek • Left cheek • Nasal-labial fold and nose • Forehead

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study points:

skin-balancing theory

4skin-balancing techniques

aveda skin-balancing techniques continued

water application:1. While maintaining the concentric circular movement at the midline of

the forehead with the pads of the fingers of your left hand, replace the cap on the bottle with your right hand.

2. Once the cap is secured, dip pads of the fingers of your right hand in a small bowl of warm water, dab back of fingers on towel to remove excess, apply the warm water to the left area of the axilla and effleurage across the décolleté bilaterally to the right axilla, alternate your left and right palms continually performing the alternating movement as often as needed until all of the water and essential oil blend have been evenly spread and absorbed into the skin.

3. Maintain contact and follow this application process for each area identified below: • Neck • Jaw and cheek/right side • Jaw and cheek/left side • Nasal-labial fold and nose • Forehead

4. Complete the water application by sliding bilaterally to rest at the temples.

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1. How do I balance the guest’s skin with just a small amount of oil?By choosing the aroma and applying each drop. Using the Aveda Skin-Balancing Techniques, you can balance skin problems caused by outside factors while eliciting relaxation and improving the spirits of the guest.

2. Are there both psychological and physiological benefits to skin balancing? That’s right. First, breathing in the aroma of the essential oils enhances mood and emotion (psychology). Second, the direct application of balancing blends to the skin affects the topical needs of the skin (physiological).

3. Is there a way to spread the infusion more effectively?Water helps spread the product more effectively and also intensifies the aroma while hydrating the skin. So, place fingers in a bowl of water, and then massage the décolleté, using wide, sweeping effleurage movements, until the water has been absorbed.

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measurement of acquired knowledge

aveda skin refinement and balancing theory

fill in the blanks or circle the correct answer(s).

1. The goal of skin is to create a smoother, more even skin surface. Not only does the skin look overall, but it also more readily accepts treatment products, moisturizers, and corrective masques. Refinement also helps remove the horny, dry, of the epidermis. This prepares the for blackhead removal or the purging of other during the facial treatment.

2. Which of the following terms refers to the process of removing dead skin cells from the epidermis to create smoother, more even skin:a. Refinementb. Exfoliationc. Peelingd. Gommagee. All of the above

3. Our skin sheds about skin cells a day. This process is called . Skin cells start out in the layer of the skin, round

and plump. Gradually they get flatter as they move upward toward the in the epidermis. Transit time varies per skin cell. The

longer the process, the and the cells when they arrive at the skin’s surface. That is why skin gets duller as we .

4. T F Mechanical refinement refers to scraping and scrubbing dead skin from the epidermal layer manually.

5. T F Dissolving refinement refers to dissolving the dead skin cells or the lipid barrier between dead skin cells in the epidermal layer with abrasive products.

6. occurs when you use, produce, or cause a warming action that affects surface skin tissue.

name_______________________________________ date ______________________________________

participant signature _________________________ facilitator signature ____________________________________



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measurement of acquired knowledge

aveda skin refinement and balancing theory continued

7. Which of the following is not a mechanical method of refining the skin?a. Cleansersb. Accessoriesc. Enzymesd. Abrasive productse. Microdermabrasion

8. Which of the following is not a biochemical method of refining the skin:a. Alpha- and beta-hydroxy acidsb. Enzymesc. Biofermentationd. The Modified Jessner Peele. Face scrubsf. Refinement techniques used by the medical industry

name_______________________________________ date ______________________________________

participant signature _________________________ facilitator signature ____________________________________



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aveda skin balancing charts

aveda specialized oily/acne skin balancing chart

pure essential oil blends for oily/acne skinThere are two options for each elemental nature skin condition. Make a blend of no more than 6 drops total into one ounce of the All-Sensitive™ Body Formula. Apply directly to “balance” the skin. The following pure essential oil blends are based on the combination of their Elemental NaturesSM and chemical compositions.

infinity/air nature for mature skin

air nature for dry skin

fire nature for sensitive skin

water nature for oily skin

water/earth nature for adolescent skin

water/earth nature for cystic skin

full spectrum lymphatic drainage for all skin states

• 3 drops helichrysumBlend #1 • 2 drops cedarwood atlas

• 1 drop vetiver• 2 drops helichrysum

Blend #2 • 2 drops sandalwood• 2 drops carrot seed• 4 drops sandalwood

Blend #1 • 1 drop vetiver• 1 drop ylang ylang• 3 drops frankincence

Blend #2 • 2 drops rose• 1 drop patchouli• 3 drops lavender

Blend #1 • 2 drops neroli• 1 drop helichrysum• 3 drops sandalwood

Blend #2 • 2 drops rose• 1 drop chamomile german• 3 drops geranium

Blend #1 • 2 drops lemon tea tree• 1 drop ylang ylang• 2 drops eucalyptus

Blend #2 • 3 drops orange• 1 drop clary sage• 3 drops lemon tea tree

Blend #1 • 2 drops lavender• 1 drop bergamot• 3 drops grapefruit

Blend #2 • 2 drops rosemary• 1 drop juniper• 3 drops lemontree

Blend #1 • 2 drops frankincense• 1 drop cedarwood atlas• 2 drops geranium

Blend #2 • 2 drops helichrysum• 2 drops eucalyptus• 10 drops cedarwood atlas• 5 drops sandalwood

Blend #1 • 5 drop grapefruit• 5 drops orange• 3 drops rosemary• 2 drop juniper


A-2the art and science of esthiology | additional information01/2010


aveda specialized aging skin balancing chart

The following are suggested blends and guidelines for skin care and massage/body care.

• 10 drops per 2 ounce carrier oil for facial massage (.5%)• 20 drops per 2 ounce carrier for body massage (1%)

suggested blends for full spectrum

• 3 drops clary sageBlend #1 • 5 drops lavender

• 2 drops roman chamomile• 4 drops frankincence

Blend #2 • 2 drops vetiver• 4 drops ginger• 2 drops rose

Blend #3 • 5 drops lavender• 3 drops geranium• 2 drops german chamomile

Blend #4 • 3 drops helichrysum• 5 drops rosemary• 3 drops carrot seed

Blend #5 • 3 drops helichrysum• 4 drops lavender• 2 drops jasmine

Blend #6 • 5 drops sandalwood• 3 drops frankincense




aveda specialized hyperpigmentation skin balancing chart

Add to 1 ounce All Sensitive™ Body Formula

suggested blends for full spectrum

• 1 drop helichrysumBlend #1 • 1 drop carrot seed

• 3 drops neroli



chapter 11: aveda skin refinement and balancing techniques · 2017. 9. 21. · chapter 11: aveda...

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