p. 1

19 giugno 2015

Universit Cattolica del Sacro Cuore

Milano

Change-Makers. The material basis

of sustainable fashion

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A project by sustainability-lab with Centro ModaCult, Universit Cattolica del

Sacro Cuore.

www.sustainability-lab.net

info@blumine.it

The research team:

Marco Ricchetti, sustainability-lab

Aurora Magni, sustainability-lab and Universit Cattaneo-LIUC

Emanuela Mora, Centro ModaCult, Universit Cattolica del Sacro Cuore, Milano

Fabio Guenza, sustainability-lab

Alberto Saccavini, sustainability-lab

Karan Khurana, sustainability-lab

Draft

Milano, 18.06.2015

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

You can copy and redistribute the material in any medium or format under the following

terms: You must give appropriate credit and provide a link to the original source, you may

not change or modify text data or charts.

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The participating companies

Besani. Knitted Fabrics .............................................................................................. 4

Canepa. Noble fibers fabrics .................................................................................... 7

Dienpi. Labels and tags ........................................................................................... 10

Giovanni Lanfranchi - Lampo. Zippers .................................................................. 13

Itaclab. Collections development and garments finishings ............................... 16

Italdenim. Yarn and Fabric ...................................................................................... 19

ITV Denim. Yarn and Fabrics .................................................................................. 22

Mantero. Silk fabrics and printing ......................................................................... 25

Radici Group. Chemical Fibers ............................................................................... 28

Tessitura Imperiali. Silk Weaving ........................................................................... 31

Wash Italia. Product development and garments finishings ............................ 34

Note: further to the above listed companies Miroglio Group has participated in

the project. The text of the interview to Miroglio Group is still pending for revision

it will be included in the final version of the document.

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Besani. Knitted Fabrics

www.besani.eu

The area between Varese and Milan is marked by towns like Gallarate, Busto

Arsizio and Legnano, which until the 90's was one of the most important

European centers for cotton processing. To remind this are the great nineteenth-

century factories many of which are now reconverted into institutional buildings,

shopping malls and universities. But cotton in Lombardy is not just nostalgic

memory. It is still selected and carefully worked in companies that know how to

value fabrics and garments for the high end boutiques.

Besani srl well represents this reality living on small but innovative textile firms

which have addressed this crisis by pushing the accelerator on quality and

internationalization.

With its 30 employees and a turnover made 40% in China and the United States,

Besani srl designs and manufactures knitted fabrics in fine cottons for

major high-end sportswear brands. A production of 141,000 kg/year

become polo and t-shirts for tennis, sailing, golf or simply for everyday wear with

casual elegance. Silk was added to cotton as it further enhances fabrics

preciousness.

Besani srl was founded in the late sixties at the initiative of three contractors,

two of which today are still present in the company while the third was replaced

by the son of one of the founders, Mario Riva, today in his forties.

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Interview with Mario Riva

How does the culture of sustainability fit in your company?

Being born in a textile environment, having played with cones of yarns and

remnants of fabrics, is a kind of imprinting that makes you feel part of an

industrial culture and is difficult not to get passionate with. My generation

of entrepreneurs represented the second and even the third generation who

have not experienced the years of growth of Italian Fashion and had to

confront with the competition of products imported from the Far East, with

the crisis, the last of which took very negative effects on the Made in Italy

supply chain. But perhaps we have learned to hold on and especially to look

beyond. In other words, the crisis has forced us to grow and in our case, we

have approached the issue of sustainability with interesting results.

The culture of sustainability can not be improvised. A company with a

solid history of product quality and service, used to monitor processes

and compare objective data can use it to increase competitiveness. Can

You explain how the company has implemented a sustainable vision?

The company over the years has adopted certification strategies that have

improved product in relation to chemical safety and environmental impact

of processes: from the choice of FilodiScozia yarns to Oekotex certification

to the traceability system TF by Unionfiliere or the recent SteP certification. It

was a gradual process. For some time we reflected on how we could do

business without harming the environment irreparably, on how to reduce

resources consumption, waste, emissions without sacrificing to provide the

fashion world with beautiful and innovative fabrics. To achieve this we

operate on several fronts and certifications are designed to make this effort

visible to our customers. For example we choose less energy-intensive

technologies and use at the same time new generation and 'old' machines

able to ensure the best performance results. In selecting our suppliers we do

not adopt the logic of the cost advantage but we favour the sharing of

common objectives, trust and where possible, the geographical proximity.

Without being rhetorical, even in the most difficult times we have chosen to

produce in Italy. We believe that sustainability is the result of small everyday

gestures such as the choice of renewable or recycled office materials and

constant attention to energy savings. Eventually, in September 2014 we

publicly committed to Detox solution proposed by Greenpeace, it is perhaps

the most visible piece of this strategy.

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How the company managed the supply chain relationships to become

compliant to the Detox commitment?

Our company relies on suppliers that provide the wet treatments,

cooperative supply chain relationships are thus crucial to ensure hazardous

chemicals do not enter in the process. The relationship with our suppliers is

based on partnership and trust. Detox allows us to strengthen this synergy

and grow together with our suppliers, on the other hand what sustainability

is but a continuous effort to improve?

p. 7

Canepa. Noble fibers fabrics

www.canepa.it

Canepa is a major Italian fabric maker, it combines industrial organization with

artisan care in products design and customer relationships. Established in 1966

by the Canepa family which still is at the helm, it is now part of a group that has

its centre and most of the supply chain within the Como silk district.

One quarter of the over 700 employees consists of creative technicians who

design each year over 25,000 original designs. The activity covers the entire cycle

of creation, production and distribution of fabrics and textile accessories, for

both men and women, for the big international fashion brands. The group

develops and produces collections of accessories and clothing that distributes

under its own brand names.

Interview with Alfonso Saibene Canepa, Supply Chain & Sustainability Director

How does the culture of sustainability fit in your business?

Canepa sees sustainability as technological innovation. There are two ways

to do sustainability: the first is achieved by optimizing production processes

and applying the best available practices, the second by changing the rules

of the game through innovation. In recent years the sustainability of

materials, processes and chemistry has improved and for textile companies,

opportunities for optimization and to change the way we work', evolving

from as it always has been', definitely increased. However, the

improvements that can be obtained with optimization have a limit. Without

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innovation in the textile processes you can not achieve a radical

improvement. This vision of sustainability as innovative practice led Canepa

to emphasize the measurement of results. Engage, recognize and affirm

principles is a key issue, but ultimately advances in sustainability - for

example in terms of environmental impact - are all about improvements

over existing technologies: how you improve, which are the reference

parameters, how stable, enduring and industrialized are the improvements?

At Canepa we use to claim we have made a step forward in sustainability

only when we can actually measure it.

Can You tell us about the consequences of the commitment to

sustainability for the business organization and production processes?

In recent years we have introduced a radical innovation in the process of

preparing the yarn for weaving, replacing many chemical auxiliaries with a

substance called chitosan, which enables a significant cut in the

environmental impact, in particular, it delivers tremendous savings in

energy and water use. We also tested first and then applied industrially the

use of chemical substances with lower impact in the process of purge and

charge of silk, also in this case obtaining significant and measurable results.

We are now working to apply our innovations to specific problems, for

example in the field of flame-retardant treatments - often required by law,

for example in the US - which is usually made with harmful substances.

Having invested so much in the development of sustainable innovative

processes has led us naturally to spread an increased focus on

sustainability in the corporate culture - a task actually still in progress and

that requires continuous updating. In 2013 we signed, first textile company

in the world, the DETOX commitment promoted by Greenpeace.

Does sustainability pay off? What have been the results in terms of

business development?

The evolution of the market sensitivity towards sustainability is more like an

explosion than a regular development, within a few years the scenario has

changed: producing and selling sustainable fabrics is no longer a way to

differentiate or add value, it is a prerequisite, a threshold for admission to

the market, if you are not engaged in sustainability you are out. The

thresholds today are gradually but continually, raising: a company,

preparing for the future, must move beyond standards and thresholds

established by law, anticipating future evolutions. Our sustainable

innovations have been ahead on the evolution of market demand, we bet

that the market would go in that direction: that decision paid off, if we had

not made it today we would struggle to maintain our leadership position.

We must admit this is still a chaotic phase in the process of freeing fashion

from hazardous substances: it is not easy today to ensure compliance with

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the requirements of our customers, often the requests are initially purely

theoretical. It is in the relationship with customers that, together, we

translate the theoretical requests into achievable goals, streamlining the

whole supply chain.

Sustainability is a journey and not an end point, what are the next steps

of your journey?

Sustainability in the fashion industry is still in a beginning stage: we covered

only the first few steps of a long journey. We are now addressing the real

issue, which is the innovation of green chemistry in particular in dyes and

textile auxiliaries. Until now the most careful and advanced textile

companies have been able to optimize, selecting in the processes for the

better, more sustainable chemicals on the market, but the path that can

lead us to have dyes and auxiliaries on the market in line with the

sustainability requirements is still long. The first problem we have to solve is

information: we must know what there is in the dyes and auxiliaries we buy.

We are still in a phase where the producers of chemicals ask us to just trust

their declaration that a product conforms to a sustainability protocol, in the

absence of chemical lab tests prooving their actual compliance. There is

demand for transparency from our customers but we buy chemicals in a

black box. Greater transparency from manufacturers of dyes and chemical

auxiliaries: this is today the crucial point! To solve this problem we need all

interested parties make their voices sound louder in the relationships with

the chemical industry giants, to make the changes happen.

p. 10

Dienpi. Labels and tags

www.dienpi.com

Born from the initiative of three young entrepreneurs Dienpi is a company

dedicated to the research, graphic design and production of fashion labels and

tags for apparel made with always new techniques and materials: paper, cloth,

leather, eco-leather, jacron. The leather products are made exclusively in Italy

and all the labels have a lot of identification, to allow clients to track the batch of

leather from which they come from.

Interview with Doriana Marini, CEO

The degree of sustainability of a garment is not given only by the fabric

but also by the accessories used. All the labels needed to highlight the

brand producing the article and to give information to the consumer

about the characteristics of what they are purchasing must be

produced with respect for environmental and social criteria.

However small a label is a complex product. It is composed of raw materials

of different origin, tissue but also leather, hide, paper, polymers. It is made

with embroidery, ink, sequins, stones and other aesthetic applications. Each

of these materials have specific environmental concerns that must be

known and managed in the design phase.

It is precisely the design phase the heart of this small and dynamic

company of Ascoli Piceno that is making itself heard (also) for its

environmental commitment. How do you create a sustainable label?

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First listening to the needs of our clients, among which there are big names

in the international fashion system and who in most cases have sustainable

production policies, often consequence of their commitment to

environmental campaigns, so to ensure the absence of hazardous

chemicals on labels is a priority. Our environmental policy is not only a

response to the demands of the fashion market that has become greener in

recent years, is a matter of corporate culture that we pursue with passion.

Designing a label is exciting, it is necessary to do just the style of the client

and of the collection in which it is intended, to choose the materials and

processes to lower environmental impact without compromising the desired

aesthetic effect. With surprise we realized that this environmnetal attention

allows us to get even more original effects. In other words ecodesign is an

enhancement of creativity not a constraint, it pushes you to consider

solutions and materials to which you would not have thought in designing a

standard product, with results stylistically interesting.

Pushing on creativity and research then, a rich archive of ideas and

suggestions, but also a rigorous organizational model.

Our products reflect all the quality standards required by current

regulations for workers protection and work ethic. This is achieved by

paying close attention to the materials used and the relationship with

suppliers. We favour sustainable raw materials such as recycled paper or

from renewable plantations, chrome-free leather, water-based inks, recycled

fabrics or with environmental certifications. Given that on a label there can

be up to 12 different materials and that we produce each year an average

of over 900 different types of labels, (a total of about 5 million of various

kinds of labels per year) to ensure the safety of finished products requires a

constant monitoring of materials and activities carried out internally as well

as those given to our suppliers. Since sustainability is not only respect for

the environment but also valuing the people who contribute to create a

product, Dienpi has initiated the process of compliance with all rules and

ethical conduct in order to obtain in 2014 the SA8000 certification.

Some specific sustainability project?

I would like to mention our etiECO line, labels made with leather from

Italian farms and tanned without chrome but with natural tannins. The

result is a washable label with a good degree of dimensional stability. The

collection Living Matter instead favours organic or recycled fibers, canvas,

handmade paper, wood, jacron and certified eco-leather. Even the colours

used to dye and print labels in this range are natural, with shades ranging

from beige to ecru, to dove to brown, to the range of avion. We play with

forms, overlays, folds and perforations of labels and hanging tags. Waste

due to die cutting become sophisticated basis for new accessories. We have

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also researched and recovered some ancient natural dyeing techniques,

such as the light blue obtained from WOAD, typical plant of central Italy.

Furthermore in Barcelona, in May 2015, at Denim by Premiere Vision has

been presented the ITS network comprised of companies that in different

ways participate in Jeans supply chain, of which Dienpi is member. During

the event was presented the sustainability handbook that the ITS Network

has adopted to address the issue in an integrated manner. An important

initiative and the first in the world of jeans that values the local sustainable

and innovative supply chains.

What is the smart label created by Dienpi?

It is a smart label, that communicates with all smartphones and tablets

equipped with NFC (Near Field Communication). Ii is enough to bring the

NFC phone close label and read what appears on the display, therefore it is

an excellent information tool to give consumers information on the

characteristics and productive history of the product, thus also its

sustainability content. It is a great tool in the fight to counterfeiting in

fashion and it is resistant to washing and various wet treatments. We

believe it is a valuable tool in spreading of responsible consumption

especially in a sector such as fashion in which the traceability of the

multiple production stages of a product is a very important value.

Next Step?

Our core busines is printing, we use inks and glues. We want to use them

according to the most ambitious environmental and chemical safety

standards. This is why we are currently working on an audit of all the

products we use to ensure they are compliant to the Greenpeace Detox

committment. Our goal is to publicly commit in the next months.

p. 13

Giovanni Lanfranchi - Lampo. Zippers

www.lampo.eu

Giovanni Lanfranchi has an ancient history. It was established in the second half

of the 19th century by the initiative of a courageous technician in a button

factory in Brescia area who decided to open his own production unit and grab

the opportunities offered by the then in vogue and growing corozo market. He

lived the glories of the industrial revolution but also two world wars, the

restrictions of the autocratic Fascist period, then the economic boom, the growth

of prestige of Made in Italy to the most recent events that have changed the

profile of the fashion industry and pushed the accelerator on

internationalization.

Interview with Gaetano Lanfranchi, CEO

How does the culture of sustainability fit in your company?

In more than a century our company has been able to innovate, to enter

new markets, confront important challenges. Founded as a button factory it

has been able to grab the opportunity to specialize in a field that in the 30's

was highly innovative, the zippers whose use was spreading, changing

consumer habits. We are very proud of our history and it takes the concrete

form of experience, technical expertise, corporate culture, values to be

transmitted from generation to generation. But an important past should

not prevent you from looking ahead, on the contrary. The strength of a

company is to maintain the pleasure of research and experimentation, in

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knowing how to interpret the needs of consumers and the market

anticipating them, wherever possible.

A zipper is a complex product, which summarizes functionality but also

fashion features: colours, shapes, design, decoration.

Designed to be invisible in some garments, while in others are the real

protagonists as confirmed in latest fashion trends. The first zippers were

manufactured at the end of the 1800s, then the new materials, the

engineering in the sliding, the study of loads and tensions made the zippers

irreplaceable components in many garments, footwear and bags.

The Company collaborates with major brand, providing high end market

products, designed to combine aesthetics, originality and maximum

functionality. Often we make small batches featured not only to satisfy the

demands of style but also to ensure the strength of the materials in special

performance contexts or climate. A zipper for a bag for the Chinese market,

for example, must withstand chemical and environmental attacks

completely different to those in Europe (heat, humidity, pollution, storage

during transport... ) Sometimes you use precious materials such as gold to

prevent the oxidation, in other cases, the zippers are designed to withstand

treatments on finished garments as the stone washing for jeans. We have

also patented an anti-counterfeiting zipper (Taggie) by placing in the cursor

a permanent device capable of giving information about the origin of the

product and its features thanks to a micro Radio Frequency Identification

(RFID) system.

How do you manage to ensure maximum quality and such a wide

variety of products?

Our company is vertically integrated and develops internally all the phases

of production, from the weaving of the tape to the processing of the metal

part, teeth and slider. Our technological systems are designed to ensure

maximum versatility, creating customizations even on small batches in

order to satisfy market requirements. This allows us not only to provide a

product completely Made in Italy but also react efficiently by ensuring

quality and at the same time, containing the environmental costs, reduce

waste and emissions. To control the production steps is the condition for

testing new solutions, to operate in a logic of problem solving and provide

sustainability programs.

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Ditta Giovanni Lanfranchi has chosen a 360 degrees approach to

sustainability. The measures taken over the years are reflected in the

installation of photovoltaic systems that save energy, in a powerful

waste water treatment plant, in the constant recycling of all waste

production and packaging, in technologies that reduce the pollutants

and therefore emissions.

Since several years we have devoted attention to the environmental impact

of our products with the aim of creating zippers not only beautiful and high-

performing but also low in CO2. Recently we opened of a new galvanic plant

that, while doubling the production capacity, reduces by 30% water

consumption and 35% waste production. The fumes are treated according

to the BAT (Best Available Techniques) to obtain emissions in compliance

with the highest ecological standards. After taking these initiatives, verifying

their effectiveness, we decided to accept the most difficult challenge in

recent times by signing the Greenpeace Detox commitment calling for the

elimination of 11 groups of toxic chemicals from our processes. Not an easy

task for a company that, in addition to producing the textile component of

the product, must consider also the treatment of metals notoriously made

using harsh chemicals. We believe that competitiveness will be played today

also in this area: to make available for the fashion world accessories with

an history of authenticity and environmentally and socially respectful.

p. 16

Itaclab. Collections development and garments

finishings

www.itaclab.com

Itaclab is a perfect example of the hybrid nature of fashion industry where

creative skills and expertise on materials and manufacturing processes are

combined. The company is responsible for the design and development of

collections of everything related to jeans wear and the production of prototypes

and samples testing garments treatments and finishings. It belongs to Itac Group

owned by the Cossiri family, led today by the third generation of entrepreneurs.

Interview with Alfredo Cossiri, President

How does the culture of sustainability fit in your company?

Since 2009 when Itaclab started its activity, but even before, in the other

activities of the family group companies, we have always tried to be ahead

compared to the legal requirements on environmental protection, without

waiting for the law to oblige us to take action when we felt it was right. So

the group has set up water treatment plants back when the Italian law did

not require it, and from the establishment of this company we monitor

monthly the consumption and the quality of our industrial water. Today, for

example, our water treatment plant is particularly advanced and provides

an organic and ozone post-treatment.

In the definition of sustainability fall different fields of action (social,

environmental...), in which are you most involved today?

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For any company like ours that operates exclusively Made in Italy and in full

respect of the laws and working contracts, attention to social sustainability

is a matter of fact, the Italian regulatory system regarding work and safety

is very advanced and stringent. Therefore we consider social sustainability a

logic and essential feature of our business. Our main focus is on the

environmental impacts of our work, particularly in regards to quantity and

quality of the water we use and reintroduce in the environment and energy

consumption. The reason is that these two elements, and water in

particular, are critical in our processes.

What were the impacts on processes?

As regards the processes, we have systematically and progressively

optimized systems and technologies to reduce the use of water and energy.

When the company was founded in 2009, we used about 300 liters of water

per garment, today we arrived at about 1/3, 100 liters; then the greater part

of our treatments were made at 60, with great use of energy to heat the

water, we are now on an average of 30, almost at room temperature. We

have also introduced new processes and materials, this year success is the

complete elimination of formaldehyde. Also in this case we went beyond the

law that allows its use below certain thresholds. We preferred to be more

radical and become formaldehyde-free.

And on business organization?

The first pillar on which we base our commitment to sustainability is the

role of our R&D and of the laboratory for chemical and physical analysis.

Our engineers are systematically testing products and chemical treatments

with lower impact to replace those with higher impact and less

technological. The laboratory systematically analyses the chemicals we use

to verify their conformity to the technical sheets and to our safety and

performance parameters. The use of any chemical in production is

conditioned by the laboratory green light. If a client asks us for special

treatment for which are necessary auxiliaries that do not fit our standard,

the laboratory does not give the green light, therefore we renounce to apply

the treatment. The second pillar is the stable relationship with our

chemicals suppliers. It is a clear policy, I would say a company's culture, we

maintain long-term relationships with suppliers, even beyond price

convenience, we think the first victim of the exasperated search of price and

price wars among suppliers, is the opportunity for collaboration. There is

need for partnership. We think that collaboration, ultimately, is beneficial.

In this way we establish a transparent relationship with suppliers

particularly in regards to information on chemical formulations. We

actually know what there is in the chemicals we use. We can also work with

p. 18

our suppliers to minimize or eliminate the chemicals that we believe

potentially dangerous.

Does sustainability pay off? What have been the results in terms of

business development?

Sustainability is a key factor in our market positioning. There is a sort of

virtuous circle. Our vision led us to be appreciated by clients, especially in

north of Europe and America, particularly sensitive to sustainability.

Working with them, including the often very ambitious and restrictive audits

we received, made us grow, acquire specific know-how, incentivise us to

improve our processes. Today thanks to this, the environmental quality of

our processes distinguishes us on the market. If we look today at our clients

base, we can see that there was a natural selection and today it is made

mainly by brands concerned by sustainability. To engage with these clients

can be considered a limit in terms of potential for growth, but also in this

case the trust and collaboration with this clients segment makes us

stronger.

They say that sustainability is a journey and not an end point, what are

the next steps of your journey?

An important step is determined by the continuous attention to

optimization of water and energy consumption. Equally important right now

is for us to align to the most ambitious protocols regarding the elimination

of hazardous chemicals. We started working to align with the Detox protocol

and we think to commit publicly in the next future.

p. 19

Italdenim. Yarn and Fabric

www.italdenim.it

Italdenim is a Lombardy based company that designs and produces the fabric for

top global jeans brands. With an annual output of 5 million meters of fabric, it is

one of the leading companies in the European market of denim fabrics. Recently

reached the headlines for having signed -first in the world among denim

manufacturers- Detox Greenpeace campaign.

Interview with Gigi Caccia, CEO

Each year more than 2 billion pairs of jeans are produced in the world

confirming that this garment is indispensable and irreplaceable. How

does the culture of sustainability fit in the denim market?

Right now we are experiencing an interesting phenomenon and I am not

referring only to the constant demand for denim by the fashion market.

While the digital culture seems at the center of every relationship and the

basis of self representation, there is an incresed attention from consumers

on the quality of what they buy. The tactile feel of a fabric, its production

history are regaining importance. To produce ecologically is a way to

answer to this request for authenticity providing consumers with beautiful

and performing fabrics that are also ecological and ethical.

What was the meaning of the Detox commitment for Italdenim?

The Detox commitment was an important fact in the history of Italdenim

and rewards an effort started several years ago. For some time now we

p. 20

have being working to reduce the environmental impact of our work, to

lower water and energy consumption, and emissions. In our company we

carry out internally all stages of cotton processing, from spinning to

weaving, to warpage, to all finishing processes. Only a marginal part of the

work is oursourced. The presence in our headquarters in Inveruno of all

stages of production enables us to operate in full control of our processes

and on how they are carried out, a key condition for monitoring

environmental effects and enable improvement actions.

How do you create a sustainable fabric?

The degree of sustainability of a denim fabric is given by many factors that

are considered in the design stage of the fabric, starting from the raw

material. We are interested in GOTS certified organic cottons, those from

ethical and Fair Trade productions and BCI cotton, we also recover all our

production waste and we recycle them. Even the polyester used in some

product lines comes from second life PET. But the ecological characteristic

of a pair of jeans is given especially by dyeing, washing and finishing

processes. In finishing processes, like sizing, dyeing, washing and finishing,

we favour low environmental impact solutions such as dyeing with indigo

and textile auxiliaries which are the result of our research. Also the

technologies are managed to achieve the maximum yield with lower energy,

water and chemical compounds consumption. Of course the search for

more environmentally friendly solutions is combined with the study of the

best fabric performances that must have aesthetic and tactile effects

coherent with fashion trends but also the right functionalization in terms of

fit.

To produce a jeans a low environmental impact is not simple. How do

you manage?

Processing denim involves many steps with high water consumption and

emissions of waste water loaded with dyes and textile auxiliaries, the waste

water management plays an important role. The purification plant of

Italdenim covers an area of 5000 m2, water discharges are conveyed to be

subjected to enzymatic and organic treatments before proceeding to the

separation of the sludge then sent to the dehydration process. Good waste

water management is essential, we have invested significant resources to

reduce pollutants, but we are convinced that to reduce the presence of

hazardous chemicals the best approach is not to use them, as the same

Detox commitment requires. For this reason we married with conviction the

SavetheWater project which represents a breakthrough in the preparation

of warp yarns for weaving. In conventional processes, in order to make the

warp more resistant to the stresses of the loom, it is used a hydrosoluble

synthetic thread whose elimination requires about 300 litres of water per

p. 21

kilogram of fabric, energy, and chemical detergents. We have chosen to use

chitosan, a natural biodegradable polymer obtained from crustaceans

waste used in food industry, developed and patented by Canepa Evolution

Research Center in collaboration with the laboratories CNR - ISMAC of

Biella. The use of chitosan allows to drastically reduce the consumption of

water, energy, detergents, bleaches and other chemical agents. The

treatment also acts as a sanitizer, a feature that will remain on the fabric

and finished garments. An example of how it is not only possible but also

necessary to improve products and at the same time make sure that

production does not harm the environment. This is the meaning of today's

textile materials research and the ground on which to intensify the synergy

between companies and research centers.

p. 22

ITV Denim. Yarn and Fabrics

www.itvdenim.com

ITV was established in Vicenza in 1972 thanks to the intuition and deep

knowledge of the textile sector of Romano Gnutti, still president of this family

run business, now at its third generation. In the 90s most of the production is

transferred in Abruzzi a region that found in the jeans production its own

industrial peculiarity. In an area of 24 thousand square meters ITV Denim

performs all stages of denim production: from spinning to cotton

Interview with Paolo Gnutti, Vice-President

How does sustainability fit in your business?

Sustainability is a commitment that we pursue with passion since many

years. We believe that a company should do business and have its income

statement as a priority, but the business model we have created and we

want to strengthen is based on a constant search for technical solutions to

guarantee to the fabric excellent aesthetic and performance results with a

low environmental cost, without forgetting the ethics that has always been a

core value of our family and of our company. The growing demand for

ecological standards by brand confirms that we are on the right track.

How important are the raw materials to ensure a sustainable jeans?

The primary fibre used in denim is of course cotton that, as we know, has a

high environmental impact in the cultivation stage requiring a lot of water

p. 23

and many chemicals such as insecticides, fertilizers, herbicides. In addition,

often cotton carries stories of exploitation and poverty. For this we favour

BCI cotton (Better Cotton Initiative) that allows to support farmers in

developing countries and their communities or cottons produced in certified

and ethical supply chains. Furthermore, in our collections we also use

natural fibres such as linen, silk and of course elastomers from carefully

selected suppliers. We are also working on projects related to the

development of our territory. We want to develop with suppliers and clients

collaborative projects and research. The dyes and chemical auxiliary

suppliers are, in this regard, particularly important since with them we can

find ways to reduce hazardous chemicals in dyeing and finishing processes

and fabric washing.

Can you give us a practical example?

For some time now we are testing and offering our clients denim yarn dyed

using wineries waste. An initiative with surprising aesthetic effects since the

fabric, starting from the classic denim blue colour, can change shade

depending on the temperature and acidity of the bath while maintaining a

good level of solidity. Furthermore using wine, that is biological substances

and not synthetic dyes, no pollutants are released in waste water. An

interesting experiment that allows to value wine industry waste for which

ITV Denim holds a worldwide patent.

Can technology play a role in the search for a more sustainable textile

industry?

The denim supply chain uses a lot of energy and chemicals and large

quantities of water. Fortunately, in recent years, the textile machinery

manufacturers have developed systems capable of reducing these volumes.

But in order to make the supply of technologies even more effective in terms

of sustainability it is necessary to develop a constant collaboration between

textile, chemical and mechanical industry. In partnership with a textile

machinery manufacturer we have developed and patented 'ONE DROP' an

innovative laundry plant that recovers 80% of the process water and to

operate without chemicals. A true revolution in our sector on which we have

created a special fabrics collection.

Does the focus on sustainability reflects also in the organizational

model?

Sustainability can not be limited to mere compliance with the law, it is an

effort for continuous improvement. An important role should be given to

fabric design that in our case is based on the principles of eco-design,

looking for solutions to meet the colours, tactile and functional expectations

p. 24

of the market but in more environmental effective ways. Our design

department is somehow the heart of this model and includes Research and

Development activities. ITV Denim is a vertically integrated company that

operates in two production units, so virtually local. This allows us to monitor

every stage of production, to identify problems and to monitor the effects of

the innovations introduced. Furthermore, our company is certified to EMAS

and Oekotex, experiences that contribute to strengthening the practice of

gathering and analyzing objective data, a fundamental approach to address

sustainability.

How important is your homeland in the industrial sustainability

culture?

The textile industry has strong roots in local history and this is certainly a

strength. Cooperation between neighbouring companies allows to be more

effective in responding to market demands but also to grow together and to

better deal with rough times. This is why we joined the ITS network that

brings together companies from jeans supply chain in Marche and Abruzzi

regions and that focuses specifically on sustainable jeans production.

Future projects?

We plan to consolidate the work of elimination of hazardous chemicals

aligning with the most advanced protocols, we are verifying the real

possibility of signing the DETOX commitment with in 2015.

p. 25

Mantero. Silk fabrics and printing

www.mantero.com

Mantero Seta has its roots in the land of the Como silk district where it was

established in 1902. In over 100 years of history, the family of the founder

Riccardo Mantero has steadily maintained its commitment in the ownership and

management of the company which is now run by the fourth generation of

family entrepreneurs.

The activity covers the entire cycle of creation, production and distribution of

fabrics and textile accessories for men and women. Customers are international

and include top global luxury and fashion brands, but also some fast fashion

leaders.

Interview with Franco Mantero, CEO

How does the culture of sustainability fit in your business?

It's in our heritage: we learned from the bond with our homeland that the

success of a company depends on the value of its employees and the quality

of the environment where it is located; our work is half way between crafts

and industry, it is to shape with great care difficult products, this has taught

us to value the skills of our employees and suppliers; finally, the respect of

the ideas and needs of each customer was the guiding star of Riccardo

Mantero when he founded the company more than 100 years ago. These

principles are -in short- what is today called management for stakeholders

and are fully integrated in Mantero Seta mission statement.

p. 26

How did it work for the company organization and your supply chain?

An essential step has been to engage everyone, every single worker, and

make the new standard pervasive in the company. We had to change our

concept of how chemicals contribute to the quality of the products as well

as our mindset about chemicals safety: it has to do with the vision of the

company and the quality of the product, it is not just about the bureaucratic

compliance to laws and norms. Aligning the entire company to this view is

the only way to actually reach it. In this context we have created a new unit

which has the task of monitoring and assessing all aspects of the

sustainable quality of our processes and products. Finally, this reflects also

in the relationships with our supply chain. We discovered hidden values,

which we had not perceived as yet, in some of our suppliers who had

already invested in innovative and cleaner processes and environmental

certifications. More in general, we have expanded the dialogue with our

suppliers and increased information exchange, thereby strengthening the

partnership. It was, we must admit, an unexpected but very interesting

effect, that has turned a problem into an opportunity.

Does sustainability pay off? What have been the results in terms of

business development?

We believe the demand for sustainability that comes from our customers is

a permanent factor. It is a component of the business model no modern

textile company can miss, a key to success in the international markets for

companies that focus on quality. Competitors unable to demonstrate a

serious commitment to sustainability will gradually be expelled from the

market. This perspective offers a competitive advantage to Italian and

European companies, over competitors located in countries whose sole

advantage is cost and where the regulatory framework for sustainability is

maintained weak. Our sustainability committment has delivered positive

results for our business, our customers have been able to measure our

effort and some of the brands most sensitive to sustainability have recently

begun to work with us because of this.

They say that sustainability is a journey and not an end point, what are

the next steps of your journey?

Our first short term goal is to consolidate the results obtained with the ban

of hazardous chemicals by publicly committing to the most ambitious and

advanced standards, the DETOX solution proposed by Greenpeace is the

one we are working on currently. The issue of clean and safe chemicals has

a particular value for Mantero, especially with regards to dyes. We think

colors as our core business, the printed colors is what makes our fabrics

unique. Our aim is to be number one and world leader in colors

p. 27

management. Cutting edge innovation and research in dyestuff currently

points to safer and greener formulations, we cannot afford to miss it. We

have the ambition to lead the market, to be the first to adopt more

sustainable formulations and to exert a pressure on dyes manufacturers.

Then we have a second goal, that of greater transparency on all aspects of

sustainability in the supply chain. With regard to our clients transparency is

the better way to demonstrate the sustainability of our products. For us to

be transparent with our clients means nothing more than being a

competent professional and serious partner. With suppliers transparency

means clearly defined long-term goals and collaborative relations, a win-

win approach aimed at reaching mutual interests. It is nonetheless clear

that transparency does not mean transforming the company into a 'glass

house'. Often our work is in the invention of processes and combinations of

materials that meet specific requirements of our clients, customizing

ingredients and recipes, these are the 'secrets' that make our products

unique. These secrets are our distinctive know-how and the basis of our

competitive advantage, and cannot be disclosed.

p. 28

Radici Group. Chemical Fibers

www.radicigroup.com

Radici Group is a multinational company with deep roots in Italy, particularly in

the valleys surrounding Bergamo where it was established at the beginning of

1900. Today it has factories and sales offices in Europe, USA, South America, Asia

where, with over 3000 employees, conducts diverse operations and focuses in

the areas of chemicals, plastics, synthetic fibers and nonwovens. The textile

component production has applications in clothing, furnishings, automotive,

floorings, in technical textiles. Radici Group is among the 5 largest world

producers of polyamide fiber, also known as nylon.

The company has always been committed to research and technological

innovation and devotes significant resources to improve the performance of its

products from an environmental perspective.

Interview with Filippo Servalli, marketing director and responsible for

sustainability programs

How does the culture of sustainability fit in your business?

The chemical industry, perhaps sooner than other industries, has learned to

confront the effects of their operations on the environment and health of

people, are these employees involved in the working processes or

consumers who will use the end products. The public opinion concern with

respect to emissions from processes, even before the legislative obligations,

have stimulated internal monitoring policy and corrective and preventive

p. 29

actions. Transforming precautionary approaches in risk management

policies for sustainability in chemical processes and products is a natural

evolution that confirms the maturity of the chemical industry.

How do you transform this sensitivity in a industrial practice?

Be aware of the potential environmental effects of their activities but also of

its social role is the first step for a company that wants to compete on

sustainability. This is not possible without a rigorous and systematic

measurement of indicators not only environmental and economic, but also

related to human rights, working conditions and practices, product

responsibility. An approach that can be summarized in our motto: 'you can

manage what you can measure'. In practice, this corporate philosophy is

reflected in the commitment to provide our customers with scientific

information on the environmental impact of products with verifiable data

that can actually be compared and in finding solutions that enable better

environmental performance without compromising quality and

performance of products.

The industrial system today has powerful tools such as the LCA method

(Life Cycle Assessment) that allows you to weigh the environmental

performance of the processes, and then develop and obtain specific EPD

(Environmental Product Declaration) that qualify the product based on

its specific environmental cost.

The Radici Group has subjected to LCA the main categories of products and

this has allowed us for example to compare environmentally virgin fibers

with recycled PET fibers by assessing the various energy and water

consumption and the footprint of the individual filaments in terms of CO2

equivalent. This is an activity of scientific value which pushes on continuous

improvement not only in a single company but all the producers that

produce similar products. Radici Group was in fact the first company in

Europe to develop a PCR (Product Category Rules) in man made fibers by

establishing parameters and environmental rules that represent a reference

model for the international production system. Our company was also the

first chemical reality in Europe to have obtained the certificates of

conformity OEF (Organization Environmental Footprint) and PEF (Product

Environmental Footprint).

How do you transfer this commitment to the products that Radici

Group studies and produces?

As regards the production of man made fibers the sustainable strategy of

Radici Group comprises different development directions. Aware of the need

to reduce the dependence of our products from fossil sources, we have

p. 30

developed a line of biopolymers, in particular bio-polyamides obtained

partially or fully from renewable sources, specifically by integrating the

synthetic polymer with cellulose from castor seeds. The second production

line regards filaments obtained from recycling of post-industrial -

manufacturing - waste and post consumer waste, like the PET derived from

the recycling of plastic bottles. The polyesters produced, subjected to LCA,

have been shown to have reduced environmental cost compared to virgin

ones, not forgetting the considerable reduction in water consumption, more

than 95 %, for mass dyed yarn.

It is possible to cite Radici Group as a positive example of eco design?

The eco-design project starts from the raw materials and includes all the

different stages of processing up to the finished product. Only in this way

you can design materials, not only characterized by a low environmental

impact because born from industrial low energy processes, but which are

also recyclable. In the specific case of Radici Group the virtuous circle, that

will be implemented along its entire supply chain, goes exactly in this

direction: eco design and optimization of the production processes for a

sustainable recycling, from the polymer for the technopolymers until to the

yarns. If we take the case of the synthetic nylon fibers for example, from

their mechanical regeneration you can obtain plastic material, a

technopolymer, without the need for chemical processes, such as the

depolymerization, very expensive in terms of both energy and emissions.

p. 31

Tessitura Imperiali. Silk Weaving

www.attilioimperiali.it

Como is known as the Silk District, over the years has been challenging the

contamination of man-made fibers managing to combine tradition and

innovation, style and technical performance, aesthetic and research. This story

that tastes of past and future, is part of the Tessitura Attilio Imperiali of Lurate

Caccivio whose origins are rooted in the second half of the 19th century,

although the establishment of the company in its current form dates back in the

sixties.

At the beginning of his history, the production of Tessitura Inperiali was focused

on wedding and ceremony textiles. Growth has been rapid and in the following

years was created the department of footwear fabrics strengthening the offer of

fashion fabrics at 360 degrees. Today Tessitura Attilio Imperiali produces high

fashion fabrics for leading international brands, fabrics that range from clothing

to accessories, shoes and bags.

Interview with Giovanni Di Gristina, General Director

How does the culture of sustainability fit in your business?

Our work is a constant search for designs, shades, tactile effects but also

functional performances. Sensitivity to ecological issues has always had a

role in the culture of our company and in recent years we have enhanced

our efforts and skills in monitoring the environmental impact of processes.

It is a committment we share with our supply chain from raw materials

providers to finishing and wet processes suppliers. All the members of our

supply chain are critical to the success of our company.

p. 32

Tessitura Attilio Imperiali is a medium size enterprise that has chosen

to be present abroad aware of international prestige acquired by the

Como area and its productions. For its collections favours natural fibers

of great value such as silk and linen, but also artificial fibers, in

particular viscose, capable to give strength and toughness to fabrics

intended for shoes and bags.

The organizational model of Tessitura Attilio Imperiali is based on flexibility

and problem solving. On the basis of the proposals developed by the style

department and shared with our clients, we start internal production

processes (preparation and weaving) and those outsourced (dyeing,

printing, finishing, bonding). We have a wide range of proposals, but the

star of our production is the 'Imperiali Satin', designed especially for shoes

and bags. It's a tissue full-bodied yet soft to touch, available in hundreds of

different colors, bondings (plain weave, knit, microfiber, gauze ...) and

developed with various aesthetic effects due to lamination, laser treatments,

embroideries. Each sample has a history of creativity and workmanship that

makes it unique.

A quick visit to the style department of the company and there is no

doubt: the management of Tessitura Attilio Imperiali does not give

credit to those who argue that the green fabrics could only have poor

fashion effects while fashion fabrics can be made only at high

environmental cost.

This is our challenge: to create fantastic fabrics but at the same time reduce

the cost required to the environment in terms of water use and emissions.

The issue of sustainability has matured in recent years as personal and

business need even before that as a response to the requests of our

customers. Certainly the demand for fabrics without toxic chemicals has

grown in the last three years and has pushed us to deepen a path that we

had only glimpsed. For years we have been promoting actions to

compensate the CO2 created in production, planting trees in peripheral

areas of our region thanks to the ReteClima project. We knew that this

activity to which we are still very loyal was not sufficient. It was necessary to

deepen the knowledge of our production activities, identify the critical

factors, set with our suppliers corrective actions. A journey started recently,

but that has pushed us to subscribe, in September 2014, the Detox

commitment launched by Greenpeace that provides for the elimination of

11 groups of hazardous substances from our supply chain.

p. 33

In the definition of sustainability fields of action are very different, in

which are you now more engaged?

We strongly committed to DETOX, however Sustainability for Imperiali is not

limited to chemical risk and emissions management although it is a priority

in line with market trend and the company environmental vision, but is also

expressed in a series of social initiatives particularly aimed at young people

and in support of schools and universities. The Fashion Academy project, for

example, was created in 2014 and involved a group of young fashion

designers in sustainability and textile, while still active a collaboration with

the tailoring workshop in Reedo in Rimini. Fabrics scraps and tests are also

available for students and young designers to be used in upcycling projects.

Focusing on young people, to open our company to the future designers is

one ways we understand our mission as a sustainable company, not limited

to provide business but that it is proposed as a cultural subject in

relationship with the local communities. Investing in the youth means to

ensure a better future.

p. 34

Wash Italia. Product development and garments

finishings

www.washitalia.it

Wash Italia is an industrial laundry and dry house specialized in the treatment of

garments produced by major Italian and international brands. The company was

founded in 1986 by a group of local businessmen under the name Lavanderia

Italia snc. Growth is rapid and in 2003 with the entry of important shareholders it

becomes an inc. under the name Wash Italy. Over the years the industrial and

technological equipment have been expanded and upgraded. Also the number

of employees has increased, is now 60, and the network of suppliers who work

with us. The production capacity is over 20,000 pieces a day.

Interview with Alfredo D'Acchioli, President and CEO

Why have you decided to commit to sustainability?

First of all for the sensitivity and the convictions deeply rooted in the

company's management. It should be noted that in Italy and in Europe the

laws and environmental regulations are particularly strict and require

businesses correct behaviour and prevention. But this is not enough

because being sustainable means doing your best to reduce the negative

effects of your business activities on the environment. To encourage us to

commit on this front are also our clients, some of them major international

luxury brands that have embraced the environment commitment and

therefore ask us to share a more responsible approach.

p. 35

How do you expect to achieve tangible results?

Even though our company operates in compliance with the laws and Reach

regulation, we realize that there is a long way to go to reach zero impact

target. The strength of Wash Italia is in the ability to develop with its clients

and suppliers and contractors a relationship of effective collaboration. In

terms of sustainability this means giving priority to safe chemicals and

technologies with a lower environmental impact and to be open to the

positions expressed by environmental groups who asked fashion to face

their responsibilities.

From the organizational point of view has this environmental

awareness led some significant change?

In recent years have been spent more than 200,000 Euros in new

investments for safety and 1,000,000 Euros in expanding our water

treatment plants. Design, research and product development, quality

control, constant monitoring of the processes are steps that converge in

outlining a more environmentally friendly approach. To make this more

organic we also plan to enhance the business structure with specific

professionals who cooperate with security managers, quality control but

also with the product area and compliance experts. Sustainability is not just

ecology, is respect and appreciation of people, starting with our

collaborators. In a company that relates a lot with foreign clients and where

the number of foreign workers is growing constantly, a working relationship

based on ethical principles is essential. Therefore Wash Italia devotes great

attention to social integration projects and focuses on the professional and

cultural growth.

How ecology and fashion can meet?

The commitment to sustainable fashion is part of the attention that the

company has always devoted to product design and the development of

relations with the textile culture of the territory and its craftsmanship. We

like to call ourselves a sort of creative workshop. An entire area of the

company is totally dedicated to prototyping, screen printing and sampling.

The attention gained in respect of experiments was continuously measured

with the needs of the client to obtain replicable effects. For this purpose we

have created an archive that collects and makes visible denim fabric

samples collected all over the world, result of a research especially in

vintage markets, inspirational in testing treatments, techniques and

innovative solutions. This heritage of materials and ideas is made even

more interesting by the commitment of Wash Italia to develop technological

innovation, techniques and tools that enable the achievement of replicable

results. Another project concerns the traceability of the processed orders in

p. 36

order to ensure product quality and efficient management of the

production departments. An IT system allows to record on a main server all

the appropriate 'recipes' for each machine stage by association batch

number / machine phase / machine (data available from a wireless barcode

reader). This allows to cancel the chance for human error due to incorrect

programming of the machines, and to monitor, then check and reduce lead

times for orders. Ultimately Wash Italia is member of the ITS network that

collects the denim supply chain companies from the Marche and Abruzzi

regions with the aim of strengthening the market presence and develop

research and synergies. The issue of sustainability was immediately placed

on the agenda and is indeed recognized as a priority topic in the actions of

the network. This confirms the positive role that a territory and its cultural

identity can and should have.