canyon mtb en 2014

7/17/2019 Canyon Mtb en 2014

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PURE CYCLING

BICYCLE MANUAL MOUNTAIN BIKE

Attention!

Assembly instructions page 12. Before your first ride please read pages 7-11.

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! Your bicycle and this bicycle manual comply with the safety requirements of the European standardEN 14766 for mountain bicycles.

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COMPONENTS

1 Frame: a Top tube b Down tube

c Seat tube d Chainstay e Rear stay f Rear shock

2 Saddle3 Seat post4 Seat post clamp5 Rear brake6 Cassette sprockets7 Rear derailleur8 Chain9 Front derailleur

10 Chainring 11 Crank set12 Pedal

13 Stem14 Handlebars15 Brake lever

16 Shift lever17 Headset

18 Suspension fork: I Fork crown II Stanchion tube III Lower leg IV Drop-out

19 Front brake20 Rotor

Wheel:21 Quick-release

22 Rim23 Spoke24 Tyre25 Hub26 Valve

This symbol indicates an imminent risk toyour life or health unless you comply with

the instructions given or take preventive measures.

i This symbol signifies information abouthow to handle the product or refers to a

passage in the operating instructions that de-serves your special attention.

! This symbol warns you about actions thatcould lead to damage to property or the en-

vironment.

GENERAL NOTES ON THIS MANUAL

PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE FOLLOWING SYMBOLS:

Please note that the aforementioned consequenceswill not be repeated each time the symbols appear inthe manual.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

2 Welcome4 Intended use7 Before your first ride10 Before every ride12 Assembly from the BikeGuard24 Packing your Canyon bike25 How to use quick-releases and thru axles25 How to securely mount the wheel27 How to mount thru axle wheels30 What to bear in mind when adding components or

making changes?31 Special characteristics of carbon32 Care instructions33 Special features of freeride bikes35 After an accident37 Framesets – assembly technical data42 Adjusting the Canyon bike to the rider43 Adjusting the saddle to the correct height45 Adjusting the height of the handlebars45 Aheadset®-stems or threadless system48 Fore-to-aft position and saddle tilt49 Adjusting saddle position and tilt51 Handlebars and brake lever adjustment51 Adjusting the handlebar position by turning the

handlebar53 Adjusting the brake lever reach54 The pedal systems54 Different systems at a glance - how they work56 Adjustment and maintenance57 The brake system58 Brakes – how they work and what to do about

wear59 Checking and readjusting disc brakes59 Functional check60 AVID, FORMULA, MAGURA and SHIMANO

brakes61 The gears62 The gears - how they work and how to use them65 Checking and readjusting the gears

65 Rear derailleur65 Adjustment of limit stops67 Front derailleur68 Crank gear68 Chain maintenance69 Chain wear70 The wheels - tyres, inner tubes and air pressure73 Rim trueness, spoke tension74 Wheel fastening with quick-releases74 Wheel fastening with thru axle systems75 Repairing punctures75 Wheel removal76 Removing clincher and folding tyres77 Mounting clincher and folding tyres79 Removing tubeless/UST tyres79 Repairing tubeless/UST tyres80 Mounting tubeless/UST tyres81 Mounting wheels82 The headset82 Checking and readjusting83 Threadless headset: Aheadset®

84 Suspension84 Glossary - suspension85 The suspension fork85 How suspension forks work86 Adjustment and maintenance89 Full-suspension 89 What to bear in mind when adjusting the

saddle89 Adjustment and maintenance92 Transport of your Canyon bike94 General notes on care and inspection94 Washing and cleaning your Canyon96 Safekeeping and storing your Canyon97 Servicing and inspection98 Service and maintenance schedule100 Recommended tightening torques104 Legal requirements for riding on public roads107 Guarantee108 Crash replacement

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2 3

Furthermore, you will find numerous service movieson our website www.canyon.com that will help youcarry out small repair and maintenance works.For your own safety, never do work on your bicycleunless you feel absolutely sure about it. If you are indoubt or if you have any questions, please contactour service hotline +44 (0) 20 8501 2582!

Please note: This manual cannot teach you all me-chanical skills. Even a manual as big as an encyclo-paedia could not describe every possible combinationof available bicycles and components. For this reasonthis manual focuses on your newly purchased bikeand standard components by drawing your attentionto important notes and warnings. It does, however,not teach you the basic skills of a bike mechanic orhelp you assemble a complete bike from the Canyonframeset.

This manual cannot teach you how to ride. For thisreason this manual focuses on your newly purchasedbike by drawing your attention to the most importantnotes and warnings. This manual cannot teach youriding a bike or make you familiar with the trafficrules.

Please be aware that cycling is a hazardous activitythat requires that the rider stays in control of his orher bike at all times.

Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury anddamage. By choosing to ride a bike, you assume theresponsibility for the risk. Always keep in mind thatyou have no protection technique around you, whichcould avoid injuries, such as e.g. the bodywork or the

airbag of a car.

DEAR CANYON CUSTOMER,

In this manual we have compiled for you lots of tips onhow to use your Canyon bike, instructions for mainte-nance and care, plus a wealth of things worth know-ing on bicycle technology. Please read this manualthoroughly. You will find it worth your while; even ifyou have cycled all your life and feel like a veteranwith your new bike. Bicycle technology has developedtremendously over the past few years.

For your enjoyment and safety when cycling, pleaseread the complete first part of this manual thoroughlyand strictly follow the assembly instructions given in

chapter “Assembly from the BikeGuard“. read chapter “Before your first ride“ and see chapter “Intended use“ to read up on how to use

your new bike and on the permitted overall weight(rider, clothing and baggage) and

carry out the minimum functional check beforeevery ride. For more details on how to proceed, readchapter "Before every ride“ of this manual. Do notride your bike unless it has passed the functionalcheck one hundred per cent!

On the digital data medium enclosed with this manualyou will find a number of maintenance and repair rou-tines in detail. When carrying out these routines, beaware that the instructions and information providedin your manual only refer to this Canyon bike and thatthey do not necessarily apply to other bikes. Due tonumerous designs and model changes, it may be thatsome of the routines are not described in every detail.For this reason be sure also to observe the operat-

ing instructions of our component suppliers enclosedwith the BikeGuard.

Note that the instructions and tips may require fur-ther explanation depending on various factors, suchas the experience and skills of the person doing thework or the tools being used, and some jobs may re-quire additional (special) tools or measures not de-scribed in the manual.

WELCOME

i Please visit our website at www.canyon.com.There you will find the latest news, useful

tips as well as the addresses of our distributionpartners.

Off-road cycling

Always with helmet and glasses

This manual does not help you to assemble a bicyclefrom individual parts or to repair it! Technical detailsin the text and illustrations of this manual are subjectto change. This manual conforms with the require-ments of the CE-standard EN 14766. This manual issubject to European legislation.

On delivery of the bike, the manufacturer has to attachadditional manuals. Please visit www.canyon.com forsupplementary manuals.

Concept, text, photos and graphic design:Zedler – Institut für Fahrradtechnikund -Sicherheit GmbHwww.zedler.deRevised in July 2013, edition 6

© No part of this brochure may be published, reprint-ed, translated or reproduced in extracts or with elec-tronical systems or used for other business purposeswithout prior written permission of the author.

! For your own safety, never do any assem-bly or adjusting work on your bike, unless

you feel absolutely sure about it. If you are unsureabout anything, please call our service hotline+44 (0) 20 8501 2582. E-mail: [email protected]

Therefore, always ride carefully and respect the othertraffic participants.

Never ride under drugs, alcohol or when you are tired.Do not ride with a second person on your bike andnever ride without having your hands on the handle-bars.

Before you set off please note: Always ride carefullyso as not to endanger yourself or others. Please re-spect nature when touring through forests and mead-ows. Make it a habit to only ride with appropriateequipment. At least you should wear a properly adjusted bike helmet, sturdy shoes and suitable, brightcoloured clothing.

Your Canyon team wishes you lots of fun and enjoy-ment with your bike!

WELCOME

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4 5

INTENDED USETo define the intended purposes for the different types of bicycles, we have classified our bikes in differentcategories. The purpose of this classification is to define the test requirements complying with the respectivestress as early as during the development of our bikes. This is to ensure the highest possible level of safety forthe use of our bikes.

It is therefore of major importance that the bikes are not used under conditions beyond the intended use, as thisbears the risk that the bikes’ maximum load is exceeded and the frame or other components are damaged. Thiscan result in severe crashes.

The rider’s maximum weight incl. baggage should not exceed 120 kg. Under certain circumstances this per-missible maximum weight can be further limited by the component manufacturers’ recommendations for use.

The frame of your bike is marked according to one of the following symbols indicating the category your bikebelongs to. If you are not sure about the category your bike belongs to, please contact our service centre.

Condition 0This category is intended for childrens’ bicycles.Children should not ride near precipices, staircasesor swimming pools as well as on paths used by au-tomotive mobiles. In general, this applies to bicycleswith wheel sizes of 12 to 24 inches.

Condition 1Bikes of this category are designed for riding onhard-surface roads where the wheels remain inpermanent contact to the ground. These are in gen-eral road racing bicycles with racing handlebars orstraight handlebars, triathlon or time trial bicycles.The rider’s maximum weight incl. baggage shouldnot exceed 120 kg. Under certain circumstances thispermissible maximum weight can be further limitedby the component manufacturers’ recommendationsfor use.

Condition 2Bicycles of category 1 and bicycles designed for wellpaved gravel paths and off-road trails with a slightslope where a short loss of tyre contact with theground due to small steps can occur. This conditioncomprises urban and city bicycles as well as cyclo-cross bikes with road racing handlebars and cantile-ver or disc brakes.

Condition 3Bikes of this category comprise the bicycles of thecategories 1 and 2 and are in addition suitable forrough and unpaved terrains. Sporadic jumps of amaximum height of approx. 60 cm are also includedin the field of use of these bicycles. But inexperiencedriders doing jumps of this height may land inappropri-ately, thus increasing the acting forces significantlywhich may result in damage and injuries. This cate-gory is represented by MTB hardtails and full suspen-sion bicycles with short suspension travel.

INTENDED USE

Condition 4This category includes bikes of the categories 1 to 3.In addition, bicycles of this category are suitablefor very rough and partly blocked terrain with steepslopes and higher speeds as a result thereof. Reg-ular, moderate jumps by experienced riders are noproblem for these bicycles. The regular and dura-ble use of the bicycles on North Shore trails and inbike parks should, however, be excluded. Due to the

higher stresses, these bicycles should be checkedfor possible damage after every ride. Full suspensionbikes with medium suspension travel are typical forthis category.

INTENDED USE

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6 7BEFORE YOUR FIRST RIDE

! Note that the assignment of brake lever tobrake caliper can vary from country to

country. Check the brake assignment. If it doesnot comply with your habits, we recommend youhaving an expert change the lever-to-brake as-signment!

BEFORE YOUR FIRSTRIDE1. Have you ever ridden a mountain bike? Please note

that riding over rough terrain requires concentra-

tion, fitness and practice. Make yourself gradu-ally familiar with your new mountain bike in anunfrequented area and only approach the terrainyou want to bike on step by step. Attend a ridingtechnique course. For more information visit www.canyon.com

2. Are you familiar with the brake system? Canyonbikes are normally delivered with the left brake le-ver operating the front brake. Check whether thelever of the front brake is in the position you areused to. If it is not, you will need to train to get usedto the new configuration, as inadvertent use of thefront brake can throw you off your bike! Have the

lever-to-brake assignment changed by an expert.

Your new bike is equipped with modern brakeswhich may be far more powerful than those you areused to! Due to the specific intended use, some dirtbikes are fitted with only one brake.

Be sure to first practise using the brakes off publicroads! Do approach the maximum possible decel-eration gradually. For more information about thebrakes, read chapter “The brake system“.

3. Are you familiar with the type and functioning of thegears? If not, make yourself familiar with the gears

in a place clear of traffic. Make sure not to shiftgears on the front and rear derailleur at the sametime and not to pedal with too much force whenshifting. For more information about the gears,read chapter “The gears“. If you hold your MTB handlebars by the

bar ends, you cannot reach the brake le-vers as quickly as you would from other positions,and your stopping distance therefore becomeslonger. Look well ahead as you ride and be pre-pared for longer stopping distances.

Derailleur gears

Too hard braking with front brake; do not imitate!

INTENDED USE

Condition 5This type of use stands for very challenging, highlyblocked and extremely steep terrains, which canonly be mastered by well-trained riders with techni-cal skills. Rather high jumps at very high speeds aswell as the intensive use of specific, identified bikeparks or downhill trails are typical for this category.

In the case of these bicycles it must be consideredthat a thorough check for possible damage is carriedout after every ride. Preliminary damage with clearlyinferior further stress can result in failure. A regularreplacement of safety-relevant components shouldalso be taken into account. Wearing special protec-tors is strongly recommended. Full suspension bikeswith long suspension travel as well as dirt bikes aretypical for this category.

Bikes with carbon seat posts are not ap-proved for mounting pannier racks. The

only way of riding with baggage is by using a spe-cial backpack.

! Canyon bikes are not approved for mount-ing child carriers.

! Canyon bikes are not approved for towingtrailers.

Due to the specific intended use, some dirtbikes are fitted with only one brake.

i Keep yourself informed by visiting our al-ways updated website at www.canyon.com.

There you will find an illustration visualising theintended use of all Canyon bikes.

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8 9BEFORE YOUR FIRST RIDE

4. Are frame size, saddle and handlebars properlyadjusted? Stand over the top tube of your bikeand check whether there is enough clearance be-tween the top tube and your crotch (at least onehandbreath). If there is not, read the more de-tailed chapter of the manual further below or onthe enclosed CD or contact our service hotline at

+44 (0) 20 8501 2582. Riding with a too big framemay cause injuries, when getting off your bikequickly! With cross-country and marathon bikesthe saddle should be set to a height from which youcan just reach the pedal in its lowest position withyour heel. Check whether your toes reach to thefloor when you are sitting on the saddle. With allmountain, enduro and freeride bikes the saddle isnormally brought to a lower position. A lower sad-dle position is particularly advisable when ridingdownhill. For more information about the saddleposition, read chapter “Adjusting the Canyon biketo the rider”.

5. Have you ever tried clipless or step-in pedals andthe shoes they go with? Before riding with cliplesspedals for the first time, carefully practise lockingone shoe onto a pedal and disengaging it while thebike is stationary. Lean against a wall when prac-tising so that you do not topple over. Adjust thelocking and release mechanism, if necessary. Besure to first read the operating instructions thatyou will find in the BikeGuard. For more informa-tion about the pedals, read chapter “The pedal sys-tems”.

A lack of practice when using cliplesspedals or too much spring tension in the

mechanism can lead to a very firm connection,from which you cannot quickly step out! Risk ofan accident!

Shoes for step-in pedals

Checking the clearance between top tube and crotch

Step-in pedal

BEFORE YOUR FIRST RIDE

6. Note that you should only use your Canyon for itsintended purpose! Mountain bikes intended forcross-country and marathon use are not suitablefor hard downhill rides on blocked terrain or jumpsetc. For all mountain or enduro use we recommendour special models. The Torque models are alsosuitable for freeriding. Please keep in mind that

though looking easy the tricks of a professionalactually require a lot of training and experience.For your own safety, do not overestimate your rid-ing abilities. In general, Canyon bikes are designedfor an overall load (rider and baggage) of 120 kg.Make sure not to exceed this limit. For more infor-mation about the use, read chapter “Intended use”.

7. Are parts of your Canyon bike made of carbon?Please note that this material requires special careand particular use. In any case, be sure to readchapter “Special characteristics of carbon”.

8. If you have bought a suspension bicycle, you should

check the air pressure of the suspension fork. Ifnecessary, use the pump included in the Bike-Guard for the adjustment. An improperly adjustedsuspension fork is liable to malfunction or dam-age. In any case they will impair the performanceof your bicycle as well as your safety whilst riding.For more information read chapters “Suspensionfork” and “Full-suspension”.

Riding off-road

Carbon

Full-suspension bike

Canyon mountain bikes are high-endsports equipment, representing light-

weight construction as pinnacle of engineering.Also be a professional when it comes to handlingof the material. Misuse, unprofessional assemblyor insufficient servicing can render the racing ma-chine unsafe. Risk of an accident!

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10 11

BEFORE EVERY RIDECHECK THE FOLLOWING POINTS BEFORE EVERYRIDE:

1. Are the quick-release levers of the front and rear

wheel, seat post and other components as well asof available thru axles properly closed? For moreinformation, read chapter “How to use quick-re-leases and thru axles”.

2. Are the tyres in good condition and do they havesufficient pressure? Spin the wheels to checkwhether the rims are true. Also look out for tyreswith ruptured sides or broken axles or spokeswhile you do this. For more information, read chap-ter “The wheels - tyres, inner tubes and air pres-sure”.

3. Test the brakes while standing by firmly pulling

brake levers towards the handlebars. A pressurepoint should be reached after the lever has onlytravelled a short distance; the lever must, howev-er, not touch the handlebars! Make sure no liquidleaks out from hydraulic (disc) brakes. For moreinformation about the brakes, read chapter “Thebrake system“.

BEFORE EVERY RIDE

Improperly closed quick-releases cancause bicycle components to come loose.

Risk of an accident!

You should n ot be able to pull the brake lever all the way to thehandlebars

Do not use your Canyon, if it fails on one ofthese points!

Check the tyre pressure

4. If you intend to ride on public roads or in the dark,check the lighting set, see chapter “Legal require-ments”.

5. Let your Canyon bounce on the ground from asmall height. If there is any rattling, see where itcomes from. Check the bearings and bolted con-

nections, if necessary.

6. Due to their intended use, freeride bikes, such asthe Strive or the Torque, must withstand particularstrains. If you are owner of such a bike, be sure tocheck it for impairments and material fatigue, s uchas cracks, dents and bends, before every ride.

7. The major accessory for a successful cycling touris a small tool bag fitted underneath the saddle.The tool kit should include two plastic tyre levers,the most commonly used Allen keys, a spare tube,a tyre repair kit, your mobile phone and a littlecash. Do not forget a tyre pump mounted to the

frame.

8. Take a sturdy lock with you, if you intend to leaveyour Canyon in a public area. The only way to pro-tect your Canyon against theft in a public area is tolock it to an immovable object!

BEFORE EVERY RIDE

! To safe your Canyon f rom damage,please observe the maximum overall load

and the regulations regarding the transport ofbaggage and children given in chapter “Intend-ed use”. Furthermore, we recommend readingchapter “Transport of your Canyon bike” beforetransporting your Canyon by car or plane.

Emergency kit

During use your Canyon is undergoingstress resulting from the surface of the

road and through the rider’s action. Due to thesedynamic loads, the different parts of your bikereact with wear. Please check your Canyon reg-ularly for wear marks as well as for scratches,dents, bent parts and incipient cracking. Compo-nents that have passed their normal service lifemay suddenly fail. Have your Canyon inspectedregularly so that components can be replaced, ifnecessary. For more information on maintenanceand operational safety, read chapters “Generalnotes on care and inspection”, “Recommendedtightening torques” and “Service and maintenanceschedule”.

Never ride without lighting in the dark

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12 13

ASSEMBLY FROM THEBIKEGUARDAssembling the bike from the BikeGuard is no witch-craft, but you should proceed with care and delib-

eration. Unprofessional assembly can render the bikeunsafe.

First we should like to make you familiar with the var-ious components of your Canyon.

Unfold the front cover of this manual. Here you willfind the illustration of a Canyon bike showing all theessential components. Leave the page unfolded asyou read so that you can easily locate the compo-nents as they are referred to in the text.

ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD

CHECKING THE CONTENTS OF THE BIKEGUARD

The BikeGuard contains the assembled frame with alladd-on parts as well as the wheel set, the saddle anda box with small parts, e.g. quick-releases, reflectorsand pedals, as the case may be.

UNPACKING

Remove the padding (cardboard boxes), if available,and take the wheels out of the BikeGuard.

Undo the saddle from the BikeGuard. First, removethe protective film, if available, from the seat post.

When using a box cutter make sure neitherto damage the component nor to hurt

yourself. Make it a rule to cut away from you andthe component!

The illustration shows an arbitrary Canyon mountainbike – this is not what every bike will look like. First,open the BikeGuard. This is best done by using a boxcutter.

i The easiest and safest way to assemble thebike is when you use a workstand or ask

someone to help you.


Lift the frame carefully off the BikeGuard and take outthe cardboard box with the small parts that you willfind on the bottom or the side of the BikeGuard.

Release the quick-release or the seat post binderbolt. Read chapter “How to use quick-releases andthru axles” beforehand.Before mounting the seat post to the frame, makesure the seat tube is absolutely free of sharp edgesand burrs.

Mount an aluminium seat post or ask a helper to holdyour Canyon during the assembly. Clean and deburrthe seat tube, if necessary. You should be able to in-sert the seat post easily into the frame without press-ing or turning.

BIKE ASSEMBLY

i Assemble your Canyon by using theCanyon torque wrench enclosed with the

BikeGuard.

The following section gives you a concise descriptionof the assembly. In the event you are neither skillednor experienced in that kind of work, please read themore detailed chapters of this manual further belowor read up on this matter on the enclosed CD.

! Hold the handlebars tight while lifting theframe out to avoid that it drops and gets

damaged.

i Keep the entire packaging material as wellas the BikeGuard in a dry place, so you will

have everything at hand for a future dispatch ofyour Canyon or for a travel together with your bike.

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14 15

Tighten the quick release or the seat post binder bolt.Take care not to overtighten the seat post binder boltor quick-release. Please note the details given inchapter “Adjusting the saddle to the correct height”as well as the permitted tightening torques in chapter“General notes on care and inspection” and follow theinstructions of the component manufacturers, as well.

Remove the protective film and sleeves from the han-dlebars. Hold the handlebars tight while you do thisso that they do not drop and get damaged.

It is recommended that you remove the protectivematerial in general by hand. In case you do not suc-ceed, carefully use a box cutter or a pair of scissors.


Release the clamping bolts of the stem face plate andremove the face plate.

When using a box cutter make sure neitherto damage the component nor to hurt

yourself. Make it a rule to cut away from you andthe component!

Clamp your Canyon with the aluminium seat post intothe workstand or ask a helper to hold your Canyonduring the assembly.

! Do not clamp a frame tube or a carbonseat post of your Canyon in the holding

jaws of the workstand!

! Please note the details given in chapter“Special characteristics of carbon”, as

well.


Make sure the handlebars are accurately centred inthe stem clamp. Take care that the bowden cables arenot twisted or bent, but run in a smooth curve to thecable stops or brakes. Retighten the clamping boltsuntil they lightly hold the handlebars in place. Do notfinish mounting the handlebars until you have mount-ed the wheels.

Remove both protective caps from either side of thefront wheel axle.

Insert the quick-release from the rotor side into thehollow axle of the front wheel. Make sure there is onespring on either side of the hub. When mounting the

springs on either side of each wheel, make sure theirsmall-diameter ends face the hub.

The quick-release lever is mounted to the left side,i.e. opposite the chain drive.

Take the quick-release for the front wheel out of thesmall part box. Release the counternut and removeone of the springs from the quick-release skewer.

i Assemble your Canyon by using theCanyon torque wrench enclosed with the

BikeGuard.

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16 17ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD

Tighten up the counternut of the quick-release untilthe quick-release lever builds up force when closed.Close the quick-release. Read up on quick-releasesin chapter “How to use quick-releases and thru axles”;also observe the enclosed operating instructions ofthe component manufacturers.

MOUNTING A FRONT WHEEL WITH DISC BRAKES

Remove the transport lock from the front wheelbrake. For more information about brakes, read chap-ter “The brake system“.

If your Canyon has disc brakes, check before mount-ing the wheel whether the brake pads rest snugly intheir seats in the brake calliper body. This is the casewhen the gap between the brake pads is parallel andthe wear indicators are in their correct position.

Mount the front wheel and make sure you guide therotor between the brake pads carefully. Close thequick-release and verify that the wheel is securelyfixed. Read chapter “How to use quick-releases andthru axles” beforehand.

Make sure the wheel is correctly seated in the drop-outs and accurately centred between the fork legs.Make sure the quick-release lever and the drop-out

safety-tabs are properly closed.

! New brake pads of disc brakes have tobe bedded in before they reach their opti-

mum braking performance. For more informationread chapter “The brake system”.


Remove the transport lock from the rear wheel brake.For more information about brakes, read chapter“The brake system“. If your Canyon has disc brakes,check before mounting the wheel whether the brakepads rest snugly in their seats in the brake calliperbody. This is the case when the gap between thebrake pads is parallel and the wear indicators are intheir correct position.

Actuate the right shift lever until the rear derailleuris in its outermost position. Pull the rear derailleurslightly to the rear, position the chain on the outer-

most sprocket and mount the rear wheel. Make sureyou guide the rotor between the brake pads carefully.Read chapter “How to use quick-releases and thru ax-les” beforehand.

After mounting the wheel and tightening the quick-release pull the brake lever several times and spin thewheel subsequently. The rotor should not drag on thebrake caliper or on the brake pads.

MOUNTING A REAR WHEEL WITH DISC BRAKES

Open the quick-release at the rear axle, removethe board and pull the quick-release off the board.Proceed as you did when mounting the front wheel.

Verify, in this case as well, the correct position of thesmall springs. Read up on quick-releases in chapter“How to use quick-releases and thru axles”.

Remove the protective film from both chainstays. It isrecommended that you remove the protective materi-al by hand. In case you do not succeed, carefully usea box cutter or a pair of scissors.

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Check the proper functioning of the gears. Shiftthrough all gears and make sure the rear derailleurdoes not collide with the spokes when the chain runs

on the largest sprocket. Read up on how to adjust thegears in chapter “The gears“. After the wheel mount-ing do a brake test in stationary. Actuating the brakelever should generate a clear-cut braking responsebefore the lever touches the handlebars.

Close the quick-release and verify that the wheel is se-curely fixed. Read chapter “How to use quick-releasesand thru axles” beforehand.

Verify that the rear wheel is accurately centred be-tween the rear stays. Make sure the quick-release le-ver and the drop-out safety-tabs are properly closed.

CHECKING THE BRAKE AND THE GEARS

After mounting the wheel and tightening the quick-re-lease pull the brake lever several times and spin thewheel subsequently.

The rotor should not drag on the brake caliper or onthe brake pads. Spin both wheels to make sure theyrun true. For more information, read chapter “Thewheels - tyres, inner tubes and air pressure”.

! New brake pads of disc brakes have to bebedded in.


REAR DERAILLEUR ASSEMBLY CANYON STRIVE ES / ESX

Start by screwing the bolt into the derailleur hangerwithout tightening it. Mount the rear wheel, as de-scribed in chapter “How to use quick-releases andthru axles”.

Tighten the derailleur hanger by using the torquewrench supplied with the Strive.

Do observe the appriopriate torque value of 6 Nm.

To ensure a secure transport the Strive is suppliedwith the rear derailleur dismounted. The rear derail-leur can be assembled with a few simple steps.

The rear derailleur is mounted to the derailleur hang-er. This derailleur hanger connects the rear derailleurto the frame. The derailleur hanger is mounted to theright drop-out at the Strive’s rear frame.

Slide the greased bolt through the drop-out.

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MOUNTING THE PEDALS

Apply a little grease on the pedal threads beforescrewing in the pedals.

Before mounting the pedals, check the marking onthe pedal axles first. “R” stands for right pedal and “L”for left pedal. Note that the left pedal has a left-hand-ed thread that has to be tightened contrary to thedirection you are accustomed to, i.e. anticlockwise.

! Read up on the road traffic regulations inthe country where you use the mountain

bike.

Screw each pedal manually into the thread of itscrank by two to three full turns.

Continue by using a pedal spanner to tighten the ped-als firmly.

Check the reliable fit of the pedals afterabout 100 km (60 miles). Pedals can come

loose, and this can destroy the thread and throwthe rider off his bike. Also check the reliable fit ofthe other bolts according to the prescribed tight-ening torques.


HOW TO INFLATE THE SUSPENSION FORK

Before transport the suspension fork was completelydeflated. The suspension fork has to be filled with theproper air pressure.

Remove the cap of your suspension fork.

Inflate the suspension fork with the special pump en-closed with the BikeGuard, according to the recom-mendations on the spring rate of the fork manufac-turer. Read up on suspension forks in chapter “The

suspension fork”.

Improperly adjusted suspension forks areliable to malfunction or damage to the sus-

pension fork.

i You will find the operating instructions ofthe fork manufacturer on the enclosed CD.

Read them thoroughly before inflating the sus-pension fork!

HOW TO INFLATE THE REAR SHOCK

If you have a full-suspension mountain bike you haveto check the air pressure.

Open the cap of your rear shock.

Inflate the rear shock with the special pump en closedwith the BikeGuard, according to the recommenda-tions of the rear shock manufacturer. Read up on theadjustment of your rear shock in chapter “Full-sus-

pension“.

Improperly adjusted rear shocks are liableto malfunction or damage to the rear

shock.

i You will find the operating instructions ofrear shock on the enclosed CD. Read them

thoroughly before inflating the suspension fork!

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22 23

CHECKING AND ADJUSTING

Never ride your Canyon with the minimummark of the seat post being visible.

Adjust the position of the saddle and handlebars andcheck that the handlebars, grips and seat post aresecurely fastened, as described in chapter “Adjustingthe Canyon bike to the rider”.

Slide your seat post into the seat tube beyond its min-imum mark and make sure its end reaches beyond thetop tube.


Inflate both tyres to the pressure indicated on theside of the tyres. Read up on tyres and inner tubes inchapter “The wheels - tyres, inner tubes and air pres-sure”. Finish the assembly by carrying out thoroughlythe tests described in chapter “Before your first ride”.

After completing the assembly and checksit is essential to give your Canyon a test

ride in a level, unfrequented area (e.g. in a park-ing lot)! Wrong assembly or improper adjust-ments that become apparent in road traffic orduring off-road use can make you lose control ofyour Canyon!

Take the chainstay protection out of the small partbox and fit it around the chainstay.

Fix the white reflector to the handlebars and the redreflector to the seat post.

Finish by mounting the spoke reflectors. Make surethat both reflectors of either wheel are fixed to thespokes opposite to one another.

Check the reliable fit of all bolts once againaccording to the prescribed tightening tor-

ques after 100 to 300 km (60 to 180 miles). Formore information, read chapters “General noteson care and inspection”, “Recommended tighteningtorques” and “Service and maintenance schedule”.


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24 25

PACKING YOURCANYON BIKEIf you pack your Canyon, e.g. to send it in for servic-ing to our workshop, or if you want to take it with you

on holidays, you must bear in mind a few things tobring your bike safe and sound to destination.

Your BikeGuard contains the packing instructions„How to pack your mountain bike“. Strictly followthese instructions, whenever you pack your bike.

Our packing instructions that will help you pack yourCanyon step-by-step are also posted at our websitewww.canyon.com.

For travelling with your bike by plane pack your bikeeither into the Canyon BikeGuard or use a suitablebike case, e.g. the Canyon BikeShuttle.

For a transport by car be sure to secure your bike ap-propriately in order to avoid any shifting inside thecar. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions,read the more detailed chapter of the manual furtherbelow or on the enclosed CD or contact our servicehotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

The Canyon BikeGuard

When taking your bike by car, make sure toremove all parts from your bike (tools,

pannier bags, child carriers etc.) which mightcome loose during transport and cause an acci-dent.

The Canyon BikeShuttle

Always secure the bicycle or bicycle com-ponents when putting it/them into the in-terior of your car. Parts shifting around can impairyour safety.

! In the event your Canyon has not beenpacked for dispatch according to the en-

closed packing instructions, you have no right toclaim refund of repair costs for possibly occurringtransport damage from Canyon Bicycles GmbH.

! Most clamps of bike carrier systems arepotential sources of damage to large-di-

ameter frame tubes! As a result thereof carbon

frames may fail abruptly during use, aluminiumframes are susceptible to dents. Suitable, spe-cial-purpose models are, however, available in thecar accessory trade.

PACKING QUICK-RELEASES AND THRU AXLES

HOW TO USE QUICK-RELEASES AND THRUAXLES

Although the use of quick-releases is very easy, theyhave repeatedly been the cause of accidents as a re-sult of a wrong handling.

Quick-release retention mechanisms essentially con-sist of two manipulable parts: The hand lever on one side of the hub which creates

a clamping force via a cam when you close it. The tightening nut on the other side of the hub with

which to set the initial tension on the threaded rod.

HOW TO SECURELY MOUNT THE WHEEL

Open the quick-release. You should now be able to

read “OPEN” on the lever. Move the lever back, as if to close it. Now you

should be able to read “CLOSE” on the outside ofthe lever. From the start of the closing movement upto about the first half of its travel the lever shouldmove very easily, i.e. without clamping the wheel.

Over the second half of its travel, the force you needto move it, should increase considerably. Towardsthe end of its travel the lever should be very hard tomove. Use the ball of your thumb while your fingerspull on an immovable part such as the fork or frame,but not on a rotor or spoke, to push it in all the way.

In its end position the lever should be parallel to thebike, i.e. it should not stick out to the side. The le-

ver must lie close to the frame so that it cannot beopened accidentally. To check whether the lever is securely locked try to

turn it while it is closed.

Improperly mounted wheels may throw youoff your bicycle or result in serious acci-

dents!

Open the quick-release lever

Close the quick-release lever

Never ride a bicycle without having firstchecked whether the wheels are securely

fastened! A wheel that comes loose whilst ridingwill throw you off your bicycle!

i If your bicycle is equipped with quick-releases, be sure to lock the frame to an

immovable object together with the wheels whenyou leave it outside.

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26 27QUICK-RELEASES AND THRU AXLES

Make sure the levers of both quick-releases are always on the left side of your

Canyon (opposite the chain side). This will helpyou to avoid mounting the front wheel the wrongway round.With RockShox Maxle thru axle systems the Maxlequick-release lever is always on the right side.

If you can turn the lever around, the wheel is not se-curely fastened. Open the lever again and screw thetightening nut clockwise by half a turn to increasethe initial tension.

Close the lever again and check it again for tight-ness. If the lever can no longer be turned, it is prop-erly fastened.

Finally lift the bike a few centimetres from theground so that the wheel is suspended and hitthe tyre from above. If it is properly fastened, thewheel will remain firmly fixed in the drop-outs of theframe.

If your seat post is equipped with a quick-releasemechanism, check whether the saddle is firmly fixedby trying to twist it relative to the frame.

Closing the quick-release with the ball of your thumb

Try twisting the saddle relative to the frame

If your bike has disc brakes, you should onno account replace the s tandard quick-re-

lease with a lightweight substitute.

i As an anti-theft measure you can replacethe quick-releases by special locks. They

can only be opened and closed with a special,coded key or an Allen key. If you are in doubt orif you have any questions, please contact our ser-vice hotline +44 (0) 20 8501 2582!

QUICK-RELEASES AND THRU AXLES

HOW TO MOUNT THRU AXLE WHEELS

Thru axles are mounted when the bicycle has to with-stand high stress occurring e.g. during freeriding,downhill riding etc. or jumps. They provide suspen-sion forks with a suitable stiffness.

There is currently a wide range of thru axle systemsavailable on the market. Some systems are tightenedwith quick-releases. Other systems may require spe-cial tools for assembly or disassembly.

If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, pleasecontact our service hotline +44 (0) 20 8501 2582!

With the conventional thru axle system slide the thruaxle through fork and hub in a way that the head ofthe Allen bolt comes to a rest on the right side, seenin direction of motion. Let the fork retract a few timeswhen you have mounted the axle to make sure it isnot canted. Screw the nut onto the axle and tighten

it. Then tighten the four Allen bolts at the front side ofthe fork to clamp the axle tight. Check the bolts afterabout one to two hours of riding and after that every20 hours.

If your bike is equipped with a Maxle thru axle system with quick-releases, put the wheel into the fork andmount the rotor in the brake caliper. Bring the wheelinto the right position between the drop-outs andslide the axle with open Maxle quick-release leversfrom the right side through the drop-out and the hub.

Conventional thru axle system (Fox fork)

Maxle thru axle system (Rockshox fork)

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28 29QUICK-RELEASES AND THRU AXLES

As soon as the axle thread engages with the thread ofthe left fork leg, close it by turning it clockwise. Closethe Maxle thru axle quick-release lever like a usualquick-release lever. From the start of the closingmovement up to about the first half of its travel thelever should move very easily without clamping thewheel, whereas over the second half of its travel the

force you need to move it should increase considera-bly. Towards the end of its travel the lever should bevery hard to move. Use the palm of your hand whileyour fingers pull on an immovable part, such as thefork leg, but not on a spoke or the rotor. In its end po-sition the quick-release lever should be tight so thatit can no longer be turned.

The E-Thru system has been developed jointly byShimano and Fox and has a 15 mm thru axle that opti-mises weight. It is mounted like the Maxle system andalso operated with a quick-release lever. The specialfeature of the E-Thru compared to usual quick-re-lease systems is the firm, bolted connection of the

tightening nut to the fork leg on the opposite side ofthe quick-release lever.

For the removal of the front wheel you may need toolsdepending on fork manufacturer and thru axle sys-tem. To remove the wheel, loosen the axle support atthe fork and remove the axle completely from the hub.To remount the front wheel procede in the reverse or-der. Make sure all bolts/quick-release systems aretightened properly.

! To mount the axle use only the toolsrecommended by the manufacturer. Make

it a rule to use a torque wrench. Tighten carefullyby approaching the prescribed maximum torquein small steps (0.5 Nm increments) whilst con-stantly checking the proper fit of the component.Never exceed the maximum tightening torque in-dicated by the manufacturer! A too tight fixing ofthe axle can damage the axle or the fork leg.

E-Thru system

Tool for dismounting

QUICK-RELEASES AND THRU AXLES

Besides the front thru axle systems, there are alsorear thru axle systems, such as the X-12 rear axlesystem from Syntace. This system combines extremestiffness with light weight. The X-12 system comes intwo different versions: The key version (with Allen bolt)

The QR version (with RWS quick-release lever)

To remove the rear wheel of a Torque and Strive youhave to release the bolt positioned on top of the drop-out (derailleur hanger mount) by two to three turns.

Release the axle (with the quick-release or by usingan Allen key depending on the system) and remove it.Now you can remove the rear wheel as you are usedto.

Make sure not to insert the axle into the hub beforemounting the rear wheel.

Perform the rear wheel mounting in the usual manner.Due to the axle guides the rear wheel is automaticallyin its correct position and requires no further adjust-ment. Once you have mounted the rear wheel, insertand tighten the axle.

In the case of the models Torque and Strive tightenthe derailleur hanger mount to 6 Nm.

! Do not use any other tools to fix the axle.A too tight fixing of the axle can damage

the axle or the fork leg.

Thru axle system Syntace X-12

Axle guides Syntace X-12

i Manufacturers of thru axle systems delivertheir products with detailed operating in-

structions. Read them carefully before removingthe wheel or doing any maintenance work.

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30 31ADD-ON PARTS AND CHANGES

WHAT TO BEAR INMIND WHEN ADDINGCOMPONENTS OR

MAKING CHANGES?Canyon bikes are sport machines which are fitted ac-cording to the respective usage. Please note that themounting of mudguards or such like may impair thefunctioning and hence the safety whilst riding. Beforebuying and mounting any accessory, please checkwhether this particular accessory part matches withyour Canyon. With additional bells, horns or lightingaccessories, inform yourself thoroughly whether theyare permitted and tested and accordingly approvedfor use on public roads. Battery/accumulator-operat-ed lights have to be marked with the wavy line and theletter “K” (see chapter “Legal requirements” ).

If you want to mount a pannier rack or a child seator trailer, please read chapter “Intended use” be-forehand to make sure whether it is permitted. If amounting is permitted, in general, please contact ourservice hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582 and ask forsuitable models.

Only perform jobs you are absolutely sure of.

Handlebars, stems and forks should only be replacedby a skilled mechanic. Be sure to follow the operat-ing of the accessory manufacturer in any case. Whenmounting other components and accessories, it is

your responsibility to mount the components appro-priately. Bring your Canyon to our service workshop,if you have the slightest doubt.

Retrofitted accessories, such as mud-guards, pannier racks etc., can impair the

functioning of your Canyon. We therefore adviseyou to use accessories from our product range.This will ensure you use matching components.

Canyon with mudguards

Pannier rack

Components that come loose or break offas a result of improper mounting can

cause serious accidents. Safety relevant boltsmust be tightened to their specified torques.

i In case of any questions regarding com-ponent assembly, compatibility or if you

want to make any changes, read the more de-tailed chapter of the manual further below or onthe enclosed CD or contact our service hotline at+44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

CARBON

SPECIALCHARACTERISTICS OFCARBON

Carbon fibre reinforced plastic, also referred to ascarbon (or CRP), has a number of special character-istics compared to conventional lightweight materi-als. Having some knowledge of these characteristicsis important so that you can enjoy your high-qualityCanyon for many years and have full confidence in itsmaterial.

Carbon fibre reinforced plastic has proved its value inroad racing with numerous wins. Components madeof this material are extremely lightweight and - pre-supposing proper design, processing and treatment- of outstanding strength and stress resistance.

However, there is one particular drawback of thismaterial – its brittleness. Therefore, when subjectedto stress it does not undergo permanent deformation,even though its inner structure may have sustaineddamage. In the extreme case, the fibres may sepa-rate, thus resulting in the so-called delamination andreducing the strength properties of the component.In contrast to steel or aluminium, carbon componentsthat have sustained damage to their inner fibres asa result of excessive stress will show no outwardlyvisible deformation. Carbon components that havebeen subjected to overstress are therefore liable tofail during use, possibly causing an accident with un-foreseeable consequences. If you have had a critical

incident with your bike, we advise you to have the rel-evant component inspected by our service workshop,or better still, the whole Canyon.

Always park your Canyon carefully and make sure itdoes not topple over. Carbon frames and parts mayalready sustain damage by simply toppling over.

Carbon

Be attentive during riding. If your carboncomponent produces any creaking, this

may indicate a material defect. Stop using yourbike and contact our service hotline to discussthe steps to be taken. For your own safety, neverask for CRP components to be repaired! Damagedcarbon components should be replaced immedi-

ately and prevented from being used by anyoneelse.

Carbon components should never beexposed to high temperatures, as occur-

ring during powder coating or enamelling. Theheat generated by these processes may destroythe component. Do not leave carbon items in a carin direct sunlight for prolonged periods or nearsources of heat.

! Most clamps of bike carrier systems arepotential sources of damage to large-di-

ameter frame tubes! As a result thereof carbonframes may suddenly fail during use. Suitable,special-purpose models are available in the caraccessory trade.

i Make sure the maximum overall weight ofrider, baggage (rucksack) and bicycle

does not exceed 100 kg. Carbon wheels are gen-erally not approved for trailer towing!

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32 33CARBON

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Components made of carbon reinforced fibre shouldbe cleaned with a soft rag and clear water, to whicha little dish liquid may be added, if necessary. Toughstains of oil or grease can be removed with a petro-leum-based cleaning agent. Never use degreasing

agents containing acetone, trichloroethlyene, methylchloride etc., solvents or non-neutral, chemical orsolvent-containing cleaning agents that could attackthe surface!

You can use car wax to protect the surface and makeit shine. Polishing agents or varnish cleaner containsolid constituents that might attack the surface.

Like all extremely lightweight components,carbon components have a limited service

life. The handlebars, the seat post, the carbonwheels and the stem should therefore be replacedat regular intervals – e.g. every 3 years or after15,000 km (9,300 miles), depending on frequen-cy and intensity of use – even if they have notbeen involved in accidents or similar incidents.

Cleansing with water and a soft rag

! Protect the exposed areas of your carbonframe (e.g. the underside of the down

tube) with special pads against rubbing cables orstone chips.

! Avoid greasing carbon components.Grease would penetrate the surface of

the carbon material, reducing the coefficient offriction and hence impairing the stability of theclamping joint when tightened within the permis-sible torque range. Once greased carbon fibremay never ever be fixed in a secure and safe wayagain!

Check your carbon component regularly,e.g. when cleaning your bike, for external

damage, such as notches, cracks, dents, discol-ourations etc. If the rag gets caught on some-thing, this area must be examined. Stop usingyour Canyon. Contact immediately our servicehotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

Special pads protect carbon from damage! Do not clamp a carbon frame or seat postin the holding jaws of a workstand! The

parts may sustain damage. Mount a sturdy (alu-minium) seat post instead and use this to clampthe frame, or use a work stand that holds theframe at three points inside the frame triangle orthat clamps the fork and bottom bracket shell.

FREERIDE BIKES

SPECIAL FEATURES OFFREERIDE BIKESFreeriding, fourcross, dual slalom and downhill ridingare among the most challenging sports that you can

perform. Jumps, riding the stairs, downhill races andsharp bends in difficult or extremely rough terrainetc. are an undue stress for rider and material andrequire a highly durable bicycle with full-suspension.A cross-country, touring or marathon mountain bikewould fail under such undue stress and cause a seri-ous accident.

Even though the above-mentioned specialized typesof bicycles are built for sport cycling and hard use,their resistance to stress is limited. In particular thefollowing actions may cause an undue stress for thematerial and result in a failure: Incorrect jumps on sharp edges, jumps with a land-

ing on the front wheel, too short jumps or tricks thatare not completed before the landing Landing on the counter slope or between two slopes;

on flat terrain jumps with rotation crossways to thetrack or with hands not on the handlebars/feet offthe pedals

Be sure to also avoid the following, as this would puttoo much stress on the material resulting in prema-ture wear or failure: Undue stress for the chain by riding with too low

chain tension Inappropriate grinding (sliding on chain or chain-

ring)

Undue stress for the wheels by riding with too lowair pressure Undue stress for the frame and bicycle parts by rid-

ing with a too soft suspension or sliding on frameand drop-outs

The components of freeride bikes areexposed to high stress. Check the compo-

nents of your freeride bike annually and replacethe components, if necessary.

Torque Playzone

Always protect yourself with suitable clothing

Dirt, fourcross, dual slalom, downhill andfreeride bicycles are true-bred sports bi-

cycles. For your own safety, do not overestimateyour cycling skills. Please note that though look-ing easy the tricks of a professional are hazard-ous to your life and limb. Always protect yourselfwith appropriate and suitable clothing.

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34 35FREERIDE BIKES

ADJUSTING THE SADDLE TO THE CORRECT HEIGHT

Dirt, freeride, dual slalom and downhill bicycles etc.require different saddle adjustments, according tothe specific use. The seating position cannot be ca-pared to that on other bicycles; it is maximum controland movability that counts when riding one of the

aforementioned bicycles.

When you set off for a long cycling tour, the saddleshould be set to a height which gives maximum pedal-ling comfort and efficiency. When pedalling, the ballof your big toe should be positioned above the centreof the pedal spindle. With your feet in this positionyou should not be able to stretch your legs completelystraight at the lowest point, otherwise your pedallingwill become awkward.

You can check the height of your saddle in the follow-ing, simple way. This is best done wearing flat-soledshoes. Sit on the saddle and put one of your heels on

the pedal at its lowest point. In this position your legshould be fully stretched and your hips should remainhorizontal.

For freeriding, downhill racing etc. the saddle is set toa very low height with a rearward tilt. Ask your trainer,a competent person in your club or contact our ser-vice hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582 for the correctseating position.

For detailed instructions on how to adjust the saddle,read chapter “Adjusting the Canyon bike to the rider” .

i A lower saddle is advisable in particular forsteep downhill riding by mountain bike.

Prolonged riding with a low saddle may causeknee trouble.

Strive

For freeriding etc. the saddle is normally adjusted with a rearward tilt

After only one season these types ofmountain bike may be so worn that es-

sential and/or supporting parts will already needreplacing. Have bicycles of this type thoroughlychecked at least every 3 to 4 months.

Height adjustable seat posti

In the case of height adjustable seat posts,such as the Reverb from RockShox, the

height is adjusted by pressing a button on thehandlebars. Read the operating instructions onthe enclosed CD.

AFTER AN ACCIDENT

AFTER AN ACCIDENT1. Check whether the wheels are still firmly fixed in

the drop-outs and whether the rims are still cen-tred with respect to the frame or fork. Spin thewheels to make sure they run true. I f the wheel vis-

ibly wobbles, it must be centred. For more informa-tion, read chapters “The brake system“ and “Thewheels“.

2. Check whether the handlebars and stem are nei-ther bent nor ruptured and whether they are leveland upright. Check whether the stem is firmly fixedin the fork by trying to twist the handlebars relativeto the front wheel. Also, briefly lean on the brakelevers to make sure the handlebars are firmly fixedin the stem. For more information, see chapters“Adapting the Canyon bike to the rider“ and “Theheadset“.

3. See whether the chain still runs on the chainringand sprockets. If your bike fell over to the chainside, check that the gears still function properly.Ask somebody to lift the bike by the saddle, thengently switch through all the gears. Pay particularattention when switching to the small gears, mak-ing sure the rear derailleur does not get too closeto the spokes as the chain climbs onto the largersprockets. If the derailleur or the drop-outs havebeen bent, this can cause the rear derailleur to col-lide with the spokes – risk of accident!

Check the reliable attachment of the wheels

Try twisting the handlebars relative to the front wheel

Look from the rear at the rear gear cluster and check whether the

pulleys are perfectly aligned with the teeth of the adequate sprocket

i Please note the particulars given inchapter “Special characteristics of car-

bon”, as well.

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36 37AFTER AN ACCIDENT

This in turn can destroy the rear derailleur, the rearwheel or the frame. Check the front derailleur, as adamaged front derailleur can throw off the chain,thus interrupting the power train of the bicycle(see chapter “The gears” ).

4. Make sure the saddle is not twisted using the top

tube or the bottom bracket shell as a reference.

5. Lift your bike up a few centimetres and let it bounceonto the ground. If this causes any sort of noise,search for loosened bolts.

6. Finally, take a good look at the whole bike to detectany deformation, discolouration or cracks.

Only ride back very carefully by taking the shortestpossible way, if your bike went through this checkwithout any doubt. Do not accelerate or brake hardand do not ride your bike out of the saddle.

If you are in doubt about the performance of yourbike, have yourself picked up by car, instead of risk-ing anything. Back home the bike must be examinedthoroughly. Damaged parts must be repaired or re-placed. Please read the more detailed chapters ofthe manual further below or on the enclosed CD orcontact our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

Carbon components which have sufferedfrom an impact force as well as bent parts

made of aluminium may brake without previouswarning. They must not be repaired, i.e. straight-ened, as the risk of breakage would still remainimminent. This applies in particular to forks, han-dlebars, stems, crank sets, seat posts and pedals.If in doubt, it is always the better choice to havethese parts replaced, as your safety comes first.

Check that the rear derailleur keeps clear of the spokes

Make sure the saddle is not twisted using the top tube as a reference

Replace lightweight components after an accident for your ownsafety

FRAMESETS – ASSEMBLY

FRAMESETS –ASSEMBLYTECHNICAL DATA

Canyon offers the high-quality carbon and aluminiumframes as bare frames for individual fitting with com-ponents.

Forks for Canyon mountain bike frames must be se-lected with due consideration to spring travel. If youare in doubt, please call our service hotline at +44 (0)20 8501 2582.

The person completing and mounting the add-onparts must therefore ensure that all components arecompatible and properly mounted. There is a vast va-riety of available add-on parts, making it impossiblefor Canyon to cover every conceivable option in this

manual. Canyon cannot be held responsible for anycomponent combination possible.

We strongly advise you to carefully read the compo-nent manufacturers’ operating instructions, as well.Failures in selecting bike components can, in princi-ple, result in your Canyon being unsafe. We thereforeadvise you to have your bike assembled by a skilledmechanic or by our service centre. For your ownsafety, never do any work unless you feel absolutelysure about it.

Canyon Nerve frameset

i Have your Canyon assembled at our work-shop!

i This manual may require further explana-tion, depending on the experience and/or

skills of the person doing the work, and some jobsmay require additional (special) tools, such asspecial dismantling tools or additional operating

instructions.

! Do not clamp the frame onto an assemblystand by its tubes! This could cause dam-

age to the thin-walled tubes. First mount a sturdyaluminium seat post and use this to clamp theframe, or use an assembly stand which holds theframe at three points from inside or which holdsthe fork and bottom bracket shell.

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38 39FRAMESETS – ASSEMBLY

Frames are delivered ready for assembly, i.e. withthreads cut and bearing seats and seat tube faced.There is no need for any machining on the frame. Donot modify the frame or any of its attachments, e.g.the adjustable cable guides etc., by filing, boring orthe like.

Mount all components onto the frame by using high-grade assembly grease (except for carbon s eat posts,stems on forks with a carbon steerer tube and all s eatposts on carbon frames). This helps to avoid corro-sion. If you omit the grease, you may find it impossibleto disassemble your Canyon at a later date.

Canyon bikes are delivered with the headset and thefork already mounted.

Tighten the bolts carefully by approaching the maxi-mum permissible torque in small steps. Check thesecure seat of the component, as described in therelevant chapters.

For parts with no torque range given, tighten thebolts gradually to the maximum torque and check inbetween regularly the reliable fit of the component.

! Do not mount any other than the deliveredstem.

Always observe the tightening torques indicated

Make it a rule to use a torque wrench

! All carbon fibres of the Canyon Lux undUltimate CF-frame were arranged in a way

to meet the strength specifications for those di-rections of force to which they will normally besubjected. For this reason the riveted cable stopsmust only be subjected to forces as they are ex-erted by the gear or brake cable. Do not pull onthem at an oblique angle or against the direction

of the cable, i.e. away from the frame, e.g. in anattempt to alter the effective cable length. Thiscould otherwise cause damage to the frame.

i Some components have tightetning torquespecifications printed or labelled on them.

Be sure to observe these specifications. Also fol-low the component manufacturers’ operating in-structions enclosed with the delivery!

Whoever assembles a Canyon bike framefrom a bare frame carries the responsibil-

ity for ensuring that the components are selectedand mounted in accordance with the manufactur-ers’ guidelines, generally accepted standards andthe state of the art in science and technology. Incase there are any questions regarding compati-bility of individual parts, please contact our ser-vice hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.


HEADSET

All frames are delivered with fully mounted bearingcups and an integrated headset.

SUSPENSION FORKS

Canyon mountain bike frames can be fitted with asuspension fork of your choice.

Note that the effective length of the fork must matchthe overall geometry of your frame. For the effectivelength of your suspension fork and for the size of thenominal diameter of the fork steerer tube please visitour website at www.canyon.com.

Mounting another fork leads at least to a reducedriding quality. In the worst case however you couldlose control of your Canyon bike, possibly causing anaccident! Make sure the fork crown can turn freely,

passing below the frame.

A wrongly dimensioned fork can changeyour bike’s riding behaviour to the point of

you losing control of the fork.

The fork crown must be freely rotatable without touching the frame

Please observe the effective length of the suspension f ork

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40 41FRAMESETS – ASSEMBLY

BOTTOM BRACKET BEARINGS

All frames: BSA/BSC 1.370x24T,(Right cup left hand threading!)Width of bottom bracket shell:Mountain bikes 68 mmTorque model 73 mm

Pressfit 92 mm (or 89.5 mm with 2.5 mm spacer)

Common cartridge bearings can be mounted directlyinto the bottom bracket shell of all models with high-grade grease. Observe the torque specifications ofthe bottom bracket manufacturer.

REAR FRAME WIDTH

All mountain bike frames: 135 mmRear frame width with X12: 142 mm

REPLACEABLE DERAILLEUR HANGER

All frame models have a sufficiently fastened replace-able derailleur hanger. Observe a tightening torque of1.5 Nm. Do not exceed the maximum torque of 1.5 Nm.

Expect: Strive 6 Nm

BOTTLE CAGE

Use a maximum torque of 4.5 Nm. Do not exceed themaximum torque of 4.5 Nm.

CABLE STOPS

The cable stops riveted onto the Canyon Ultimate CFand Spectral frame must only be subjected to forcesacting in the same direction as the gear or brake ca-bles. Forces acting at an oblique angle or against thedirection of the cable can cause damage to the frame.

Do not exceed the maximum torque of 1.5 Nm when replacing the re-placeable derailleur hanger

Do not exceed the maximum torque of 4.5 Nm when tightening the

bottle cage

i When replacing the derailleur hanger,make sure to apply a little grease between

derailleur hanger and frame!

Do not exceed the tightening torque of the bearing manufacturer


SEAT POST

When selecting a new seat post make sure it has thesame nominal diameter as the frame’s seat tube. Youshould be able to slide it in easily without pressing orturning. A mismatch between frame and s eat post cancause failure of the seat post.

Before mounting the seat post on the frame makesure the seat tube is absolutely free of sharp edgesand burrs. If either the seat post or the frame is madeof carbon, then both parts have to be free of oil andgrease. Clean and deburr the seat tube, if necessary.

Take care not to overtighten the seat post binder boltor quick-release. Be sure to read the notes given inchapter “Adjusting the saddle to the correct height” as well as the permitted torques in chapter “Generalnotes on care and inspection” and follow the operat-ing instructions of the component manufacturers, aswell. Overtightening may cause a seat post failure,

resulting in a crash and/or injury of the rider.

Make sure the seat post matches accurately the frame

Do not overtighten the quick-release lever

i Use Canyon carbon assembly paste toachieve a firm seat of the seat post.

Even a slight mismatch between seat postand seat tube diameter can lead to a rup-

ture of frame or carbon seat post. This can resultin an accident or injury to the rider.

Never grease a carbon seat post or theseat tube of a carbon frame.

Your seat post mus t be inserted into theseat tube beyond its minimum mark and its

end must reach beyond the top tube. Never rideyour Canyon with the minimum mark of the seatpost being visible.

i Observe the information on s eat postdiameters given under www.canyon.com/

service

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42 43ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

ADJUSTING THECANYON BIKE TOTHE RIDER

No matter whether you want to ride in streamlinedposition on a Canyon cross-country racer or relaxedon a Canyon Nerve All-Mountain bike. The (seating)position is crucial for your well-being and the devel-opment of your riding performance on your Canyon.Therefore, be sure to adjust both saddle and handle-bars of your Canyon as accurately as possible to yourneeds.

In principle, a mountain bike is sports equipment. Forthis reason alone riding a mountain bike requires cer-tain basic preconditions of the trunk, shoulder andneck muscles.

Your body height is the decisive criterion whenchoosing the frame size of your Canyon. By choosinga specific type of bike you already roughly determinethe posture you will be riding in. However, some com-ponents of your Canyon are designed in a way thatyou can adjust them to your proportions up to a cer-tain degree. These include the seat post, the stem andthe brake levers.

Never ride a bike with a too high frame, resulting in alow crotch clearance when you stand over the bike.

The Canyon Perfect Position System system (PPS) of-fers you the possibility to select your Canyon perfectly

tuned to your body without test ride. For more detailson the PPS visit our website at www.canyon.com.

Be sure there is enough clearance between crotch and top tube

All the tasks described in the following

require some experience, appropriatetools and manual skills. After carrying out assem-bly work, always make a short check (see chapter“Before every ride” ) and do a test ride in an unfre-quented place or on a quiet road. This will allowyou to safely check whether everything is in goodorder. If you are unsure about how to do some-thing, it will be better just to check your seatingposition. If in doubt, ask an expert to adjust yourCanyon.

Typical position of a marathon cyclist

Typical position of a freerider riding downhill

SADDLE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

ADJUSTING THESADDLE TO THECORRECT HEIGHT

The correct saddle height for cross-country, mara-thon and tour riders is the height which gives maxi-mum pedalling comfort and efficiency.

Attention: When pedalling, the ball of your big toeshould be positioned above the centre of the pedalspindle. With your feet in this position you should notbe able to stretch your legs completely at the lowestpoint. If the saddle is too high, you will have troublepassing through the lowest point and your pedallingwill become awkward. If the saddle is too low, youmay soon find your knees aching. You can check theheight of your saddle in the following simple way. Thisis best done wearing flat-soled shoes.

Sit on the saddle and put one heel on the pedal atits lowest point. In this position your leg should befully stretched and your hips should not be tilted toeither side.

To adjust the saddle height loosen the binder boltor quick-release lever (read chapter “How to usequick-releases and thru axles“ beforehand). Use asuitable tool to release the seat post binder bolt byturning it anticlockwise.

Do not pull the seat post out as far as to let the markon the shaft come into view. In the case of frames with

long seat tubes which continue beyond the top tube,the seat post should at least reach below the heightof the top tube! This can mean a minimum insertionlength of 10 centimetres (4.5 in.) or more.

To adjust the saddle height loosen the quick-release lever

The leg must be fully stretched with the heel on the pedal at its lowestpoint

! The minimum insertion depths marked onseat post and frame may differ. Be sure

to insert the seat post to the deepest insertiondepth.

i With children who are still growing it isadvisable to check the seating position

every two to three months.

Never apply grease or oil into a seat tubeof a frame made of carbon, unless an al-

uminium sleeve is inside the frame. If you mounta carbon seat post, do not put any grease on it,even if the frame is made of metal. Once greasedcarbon fibre components may never again ensurereliable clamping!

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44 45ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER SADDLE HEIGHT

Now you can adjust the saddle height to the de-sired position. Make sure the part of the seat postinside the seat tube is always well greased. (Except:frames and seat posts made of carbon). Do not usebrute force, if the seat post does not move easily in-side the seat tube. Contact, if necessary, our serv-ice hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

Align the saddle with the frame using the saddlenose and the bottom bracket or top tube as refer-ences.

Clamp the seat post tight again by turning the seatpost binder bolt clockwise. You should not needmuch strength in your hands to clamp the seat postsufficiently tight. Otherwise the seat post may bethe wrong size for the frame. If you are in doubt,please call our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 85012582.

Verify that the seat clamp is sufficiently tight bytaking hold of the saddle at both ends and trying toturn the seat post inside the seat tube. If it does notmove, the seat post is firmly seated.

Does the leg stretch test now produce the right re-sult? Check by moving your foot and pedal to thelowest point. If the ball of your big toe is exactlyabove the pedal centre (ideal pedalling position)your knee should be slightly bent. If this is the case,the saddle height is adjusted to the correct height.

Check whether you can balance safely on your bikewhile sitting on the saddle by stretching your feet tothe floor. If not, you should lower the saddle a little.

For dirt biking, freeriding, downhill racing etc. thesaddle is set to a very low height with a rearward tilt.Ask your trainer, a competent person in your club orcontact our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582

for the correct seating position or read up on thisissue in chapter “Special features of freeride bikes”!

! Tighten carefully by approaching the pre-scribed maximum torque in small steps

(0.5 Nm increments) whilst constantly checkingthe proper fit of the component. Never exceed themaximum tightening torque indicated by the man-ufacturer!

Check alignment of saddle along top tube to make sure it is nottwisted

Try twisting the saddle relative to the frame

Do not overtighten the binder bolt of theseat post clamp. Otherwise the seat post

or the frame can be damaged. Risk of an accident!

Never ride your bicycle with the seat postdrawn out beyond the limit, maximum, or

stop mark! The seat post might break or causesevere damage to the frame. If your bicycle hasa long seat tube continuing beyond the top tube,the seat post should at least reach below the levelof the top tube and the tip of the rear stays!

i In the case of height adjustable seat posts,such as the Reverb from RockShox, the

height is adjusted by pressing a button on thehandlebars. Read the operating instructions onthe enclosed CD.

HANDLEBAR HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

ADJUSTING THEHEIGHT OF THEHANDLEBARS

The height of the handlebars determines the inclina-tion of the upper body. The deeper the handlebars,the more inclined the upper body. This means a morestreamlined position for the rider and more weight tobear on the front wheel, but the extremely inclinedposition proves less comfortable, as the strain onwrists, arms, upper body and neck will increase.

AHEADSET®-STEMS OR THREADLESS SYSTEM(Aheadset® is a registered trademark of the Dia-Compe company)

On bikes with an Aheadset®, the stem also serves toadjust the headset bearing pressure. If you change

the position of the stem, you have to readjust thebearings (see chapter “The Headset” ). The verticalsetting range is determined by the intermediate rings,also referred to as spacers. With flip-flop stem mod-els it is also possible to mount the stem the other wayround to alter the handlebar height.

i Also follow the component manufacturers’operating instructions enclosed with the

delivery.

! Make sure the handlebar-stem-combina-tion is approved by the handlebar and/or

stem manufacturer.

The stem is one of the load bearing parts ofyour bike and changes to it can impair

your safety. Note that the bolted connections ofthe stem and the handlebars have to be tightenedto specified torques. For the prescribed values,see chapter “Recommended tightening torques“.If you intend to make any changes, contact ourservice hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

Aheadset®-stem

The height of the handlebars determines the inclination of the upperbody.

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46 47ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER HANDLEBAR HEIGHT

Release the bolt at the top of the fork steerer tubewhich serves to adjust the initial bearing pressureand remove the Ahead cap.

Release the stem clamping bolts on either side ofthe stem and pull the stem off the fork.

Now you can remove the spacers. Apply a litte Canyon carbon assembly paste in the

stem clamping area. Remount the stem entirely on the fork steerer tube

and slip the spacers you have removed above thestem.

Release the bolts on the side of the stem

Remove the spacers under the stem and place them above the stem

Readjust the bearing and retighten the stem

Stems come in very different lengths andshaft and binder tube diameters. A stem of

inappropriate dimensions can become a source ofdanger: Handlebars and stem may break, causing

an accident in the process. When replacing anyparts be sure to only use parts that bear the ap-propriate mark and, to be on the safe side, originalspare parts.

i When removing the spacers you will haveto shorten the steerer tube. This change is

irreversible. For this reason, a shortening shouldnot be carried out until you are absolutely sureabout the seating position. Have this job carriedout by an experienced mechanic. We recommendthat you contact our Canyon workshop throughour service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

i Make sure the handlebar clamping areais free of sharp edges. If you intend to

make any changes, contact our service hotline at+44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

HANDLEBAR HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

If you want to turn around the stem, you have to addi-tionally remove the handlebars.

To do so release the bolts of the stem front plateclamping the handlebars and remove them careful-ly.

Apply a little Canyon carbon assembly paste in this

clamping area and retighten the handlebars afterhaving turned around the stem. Centre the handlebars accurately in the stem

clamp. Retighten all bolts of the stem clamp with a torque

wrench by observing the correct tightening torques.Please note that when using carbon assembly pasteyou normally need not use the maximum tighteningtorque. It will do already to tighten the bolts withtightening torques that are 20 to 25 % below themaximum tightening torques, i.e. 6 Nm instead of 8Nm. That will prevent the material from damage.

Readjust the bearing. Realign the stem by making sure it is in alignment

with the front wheel and at right angle relative tothe handlebars and the direction of motion. Afterrealignment of the stem retighten it and checkwhether the handlebars resist twisting and turning(see chapter “The headset” ).

If you have a Canyon mountain bike witha carbon steerer tube (which you can tell

by the black or black shining colour in the stemslit), you have to be extremely careful when tight-ening the stem. This is a job for experts only!

Release the bolts of the front plate of the stem

Note that the bolted connections of stemand handlebars have to be tightened to thespecified tightening torques. You will find the pre-scribed values in chapter “Recommended tighten-ing torques” or in the enclosed manuals of thecomponent manufacturers. Contact, if necessary,our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582. Ifyou disregard the prescribed values, the handle-bars or stem may come loose or break. This canlead to a severe crash.

Retighten the bolts

i

Verify that the handlebar clamping area

is free of sharp edges. If you intend tomake any changes, contact our service hotline at+44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

48 49ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER FORE TO AFT POSITION AND SADDLE FORE TO AFT POSITION AND SADDLE ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

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48 49ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE

FORE-TO-AFT POSITIONAND SADDLE TILTThe inclination of your upper body, and hence yourriding comfort and pedalling power, are partially in-fluenced by the distance between the grips of thehandlebars and the saddle as well as by the tilt of thesaddle.

This distance can be altered slightly by changing theposition of the saddle rails on the seat post. However,this also influences your pedalling. Depending onwhether the saddle is positioned more to the front ormore rearwards, your legs will reach the pedals to agreater or lesser extent from behind.

You need to have the saddle horizontal in order topedal in a relaxed manner. If it is tilted, you will con-stantly have to lean against the handlebars to preventyourself from slipping off the saddle.

Never clamp the saddle in the curvedsections of the saddle rail, but always in

the straight section.

The inclination of your upper body is influenced by the distance be-tween the grips of the handlebars and the saddle

i The setting range of the saddle is verysmall. Replacing the stem allows you tomake far larger changes to the fore-to-aft posi-tion, because stems come in lengths differing bymore than ten centimetres. In most of the casesthe length of the cables must be adjusted. Be su reto have this job done by a specialist workshop.If you have any questions or in case you want tomake an appointment, please call our service hot-line at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

Do avoid a rearward tilt of the saddle

Note that the bolted connections of theseat post have to be tightened to the spec-

ified tightening torques. Use a torque wrench andnever exceed the maximum tightening torque! Youwill find the prescribed values in chapter “Recom-mended tightening torques”, directly on the com-ponents and/or in the manuals of the componentmanufacturers.

FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

ADJUSTING SADDLE POSITION AND TILT

Patent clamping with two parallel boltsWith so called patent seat posts two bolts fix theclamping mechanism, which ensures the tilt and thevertical position of the saddle. Release both seatclamp bolts at the top of the seat post. Turn the bolts

anticlockwise no more than two to three turns tobegin with, otherwise the whole assembly can comeapart.

Move the saddle forth or back, as desired. You mayhave to give it a light blow to move it. Observe themarking on the saddle rail and do not go beyond.

Make sure the seat of the saddle remains horizontalas you tighten the bolt evenly and alternately. Thebike should stand on level ground while you adjustthe saddle.

After fastening the saddle check whether it resiststilting by bringing your weight to bear on it once withyour hands on the tip and once at the rear end.

SEAT POST MONORAIL

The saddle system Monorail from Selle Italia has aspecial seat post head for the saddle mounting. Thesaddle is not fitted with two saddle rails, as usual, buthas a single carbon rail running underneath the cen-tre of the s addle cover.This makes for a larger horizontal adjustment rangeof the saddle.

After releasing both bolts at the seat post head youcan move the saddle to the front and to the rear.

These two bolts also allow the adjustment of thesaddle tilt (e.g. lowering the front end of the saddle).When you have found the perfect position, tighten thebolts to a maximum of 8 Nm.

Tighten both bolts evenly and alternately without exceeding the per-missible maximum torque

! Check the bolts by using a torque wrenchonce a month according to the values in-

diated in chapter „Recommended tightening tor-ques“, in the enclosed manuals or directly on thecomponents.

Check the firm seat of the retightened saddle

Seat post Monorail

50 51ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER FORE TO AFT POSITION AND SADDLE HANDLEBARS AND BRAKE LEVERS ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

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50 51ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE

Clamping with two bolts in lineRelease both bolts by two to three turns at the most,otherwise the whole assembly can come apart. Movethe saddle forth or back to adjust the horizontal posi-tion. Tighten both bolts evenly so the saddle remainsat the same angle.

If you wish to lower a little the nose of the saddle, turnthe front bolt. It might be that you have to loosen therear bolt a little. To lower the rear part of the saddle,the rear bolt has to be turned. Having found your pre-ferred position make sure both clamps are correctlyaligned with the saddle rails before tightening thebolts to the correct torque setting as prescribed bythe seat post manufacturer.

Please observe the recommended tightening torquesin chapter “General notes on care and inspection“.After fastening the saddle check whether it resiststilting by bringing your weight to bear on it once withyour hands on the tip and once at the rear end.

When replacing the saddle, bear in mindthat seat posts are normally designed for a

saddle rail diameter of seven millimetres. Saddlerails of other dimensions may result in seat postfailure, possibly throwing the rider off his bike.

Release both bolts by two to three turns at the most

Retighten the bolts evenly and alternately to the prescribed torque

Be sure the saddle rail is clamped within the marked area

Bring the saddle rail in a position that theseat post clamping is within the marked

area. If there is no marking, the clamping mustbe effected on the straight portion of the rail andon no account on the front or rear bend – risk ofrupture!

Stems come in very different lengthsand shaft and binder tube diameters. A

stem of inappropriate dimensions can become a

serious source of danger: Handlebars and stemmay break, causing an accident in the process.

HANDLEBARS AND BRAKE LEVERS ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

HANDLEBARS ANDBRAKE LEVERADJUSTMENT

Bar ends on mountain bikes are usually fitted slightlyangled. Adjust the handlebars so that you can restyour hands on it with your wrists relaxed and notturned outward too far.

ADJUSTING THE HANDLEBAR POSITION BY TURNINGTHE HANDLEBAR

Release the Allen bolt(s) at the front side of thestem.

Turn the handlebars to the desired position. Make sure the handlebars are accurately centred in

the stem. Retighten the bolts carefully by using a torque

wrench. Observe the prescribed tightening torque(see chapter “General notes on care and inspec-tion” ). After adjusting the handlebars you have toreadjust the brake and shift levers, as well.

Release the Allen bolt at either grip binder. Turn the brake and shift lever on the handlebars. Sit

on the saddle and place your fingers on the brakelevers. Check whether the back of your hand formsa straight line with your lower arm.

Retighten the levers. Check the firm seat of the handlebar by standing

in front of your Canyon and seizing the handlebarsat both brake levers. The handlebars must be tightand withstand any jerk. Gently retighten the clamp-ing bolt(s), if necessary.

Release the Allen bolt(s) at the front side of the stem

Retighten the bolts to the prescribed torque

With your fingers on the brake levers the back of your hands shouldform a straight line with your forearms

Tighten the brake and shift levers to the prescribed torques

52 53ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER HANDLEBARS AND BRAKE LEVERS BRAKE LEVER REACH ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

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52 53ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER HANDLEBARS AND BRAKE LEVERS

Bar ends give you additional ways of gripping the han-dlebar. They are usually fixed in a position that givesthe rider a comfortable grip when pedalling out of thesaddle, i.e. almost parallel to the ground or tilted up-wards at an angle of about 25 degrees.

Release the bolts, which are usually located on theunder or upper side of the bar ends, by one to twocomplete turns.

Turn the bar ends to the desired position and makesure the angle is the same on both sides.

Retighten the bolts to the required torque. Check the firm seat of the bar ends by trying to twist

them out of position. Carbon handlebars with bar ends require special

end caps for sealing the handlebar ends. If you havecarbon handlebars, be sure to read the manual, asthe usage of bar ends is only allowed to a limitedextent by some handlebar manufacturers.

Bar ends give you additional ways of gripping the handlebar

Retighten the bolts to the required torque

Never fix bar ends in a vertical position orwith their ends pointing towards the rear

as this would increase the risk of injury in theevent of an accident.

Note that the distance you need to stopyour bicycle increases, while riding with

your hands on bar ends. The brake levers are notin all positions within easy reach.

Note that the bolted connections of stem,handlebars, bar ends and brakes have to be

tightened to their specified torques. You will findthe prescribed values in chapter “General notes oncare and inspection” or in the enclosed manuals ofthe component manufacturers. If you disregardthe prescribed values, the components may comeloose or break. This can lead to a severe crash.

BRAKE LEVER REACH ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER

ADJUSTING THEBRAKE LEVER REACHWith many brake systems the distance between thebrake levers and the handlebar grips is adjustable.This gives riders with small hands the convenienceof being able to bring the brake levers closer to thehandlebar. The length of the rider’s fingers also de-termines how the lever position for first brake contactshould be set.

Check the point, when the brake pads touch thebraking surfaces. If this point is reached after thelever has only travelled a short distance, you haveto readjust the brakes. For more information on theadjustment of the brake lever reach, see chapter“The brake system”. Otherwise the brake mightdrag after the adjustment. If this point is, however,reached after the lever has travelled half of its way,there is a little play to reduce the gripping distanceof the levers.

On most bikes there is a small (headless) bolt nearthe point where the brake cable or brake line entersthe brake lever mount. Screw in the bolt and watchhow the lever moves as you do so.

Hydraulic brakes are normally equipped with anadjusting bolt at the lever, by means of which theposition can be altered.

When you have set the levers to the desired grip-ping distance, be sure to check whether there is stillenough slack for the brake levers to move a littlebefore the brake pads hit the brake surfaces.

Gripping distance of the brake

Adjusting the gripping distance of the brake lever

You should not be able to pull the brakelevers all the way to the handlebars. Your

maximum brake force must be reached short ofthis point!

i Also follow the additional brake manufac-turer’s operating instructions.

Note that the distance you need to stopyour bicycle increases, while riding with

your hands on bar ends. The brake levers are notin all positions within easy reach.

Note that the bolted connections of stem,handlebars, bar ends and brakes have to

be tightened to their specified torques. You willfind the prescribed values in chapter “Generalnotes on care and inspection” or in the enclosedmanuals of the component manufacturers. If youdisregard the prescribed values, the componentsmay come loose or break. This can lead to a se-vere crash.

54 55PEDAL SYSTEMS PEDAL SYSTEMS

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54 55PEDAL SYSTEMS

THE PEDAL SYSTEMSNot all shoes are suited for cycling. Shoes used forcycling should have a stiff sole and provide a firmsupport for your feet. If the soles are too soft, the ped-als can press through and cause foot pain. The soleshould be not too broad near the heels, as the rear

stays will otherwise get in the way of your pedalling.This will prevent your feet from assuming a naturalposition and may cause knee pain in the long run.

DIFFERENT SYSTEMS AT A GLANCE - HOW THEYWORK

Pedals to be recommended are pedals which providea lock and release mechanism for your shoe, knownas clipless or step-in pedals. The firm connectionbetween shoe and pedal prevents your feet from slip-ping off when pedalling fast or when riding over roughground. Besides this, it enables you not only to pushbut also to pull the pedals, which makes your pedal-

ling more fluent. A further advantage is that the ballof your big toe comes to rest just at the right place onthe pedal spindle and that you do not block inadvert-ently the front wheel with the tips of your feet duringsteering.

i Read the operating instructions of thepedal manufacturers or call our service

hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

Step-in pedal

Shoes for step-in pedals

i For clipless or step-in pedals you alwaysneed special cycling shoes.

PEDAL SYSTEMS

Clipless of step-in pedals come with a special type ofcycling shoe which locks onto the pedal similarly toa ski binding. To engage with the pedal is to turn itto the horizontal using the tip of the cleat (the plateon the sole of the shoe) and then rest your foot on it.Most mountain bikes are equipped with a double-sid-ed lock-in mechanism, so that you can step on thepedal with either face up. The shoe engages with thepedal with a click which you will hear and feel clearly.

With all commercially available systems the shoe isdisengaged from the pedal by twisting the heel out-ward. Lean against a wall or ask someone to hold youwhen you try to engage and disengage the shoe fromthe pedal.

Functional differences between the pedal systemsconcern the shape of the cleat, the release angle andthe rigidity of the connection. Cyclists predisposed toknee trouble should choose a pedal system that hassome “float”, so that the heel can move sideways alittle while the shoe is engaged with the pedal.

Some clipless pedals have cleats embedded into thesole which is a great advantage, as it ensures stablewalking.

The clipless pedal disengages by an outward twisting of the heel

!Taking up the pedals, engaging the shoesand disengaging them by turning the heel

outward should first be practised while station-ary. Later you can refine your technique in a placeclear of traffic. Read the operating instructionsof the pedal and shoe manufacturers carefully. Ifyou have any questions, call our s ervice hotline at+44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

Cleats are recessed in cycling shoe soles

56 57PEDAL SYSTEMS BRAKE SYSTEM

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56 57PEDAL SYSTEMS

ADJUSTMENT AND MAINTENANCE

Current pedal systems can show considerable differ-ences in design. Nevertheless, there are some gen-eral rules for adjustment which apply to all of them:

The cleat has to be fastened to the shoe in such aposition that the ball of the foot comes to rest on thepedal spindle.

Your feet should assume a natural position whenpedalling. For most people this means that the heelswill point inward a little.

Make sure the fastening bolts are properly tight-ened, as you will find it almost impossible to disen-gage your shoe from a loose plate! Risk of an acci-dent!

Adjust the required releasing force according toyour needs. It is advisable to adopt a low releasingforce setting to begin with. Turn the small Allen boltand examine the change in releasing force whenyou engage and disengage the shoe from the pedal.

Exposed springs and other components that attractdirt have to be cleaned and regreased regularly.

Squeaking or creaking cleats can often be silencedby applying a little grease to the point of contactbetween cleat and pedal.

Regularly check the cleats for wear. If your shoewobbles on the pedal, the cleat or the sole of yourshoes might be worn.

Your feet should assume a natural position when pedalling

Adjust the required releasing force according to your needs

Only use clipless pedals that allow you toengage and disengage smoothly. A defec-

tive pedal or a badly worn cleat can lead to an ac-cident by causing the shoe to come off by itself ormaking it harder to release.

Make sure pedals and shoe soles are

always clear of mud and other impuritiesand grease the lock-in mechanism with lubricantat regular intervals.

THE BRAKE SYSTEMIn general the brakes of your Canyon are necessaryto adjust your speed to the traffic situation. However,in an emergency the brakes must be able to bringyour Canyon to a halt as quickly as possible. Suchemergency stops are also a study in physics. In the

process of braking, the rider’s weight shifts forward,thus reducing the load on the rear wheel. The rate ofdeceleration on a dry and grippy ground is primarilylimited by the danger of overturning and only in thesecond place by the road grip of the tyres. This prob-lem becomes particularly acute when riding downhill.In the event of an emergency stop you have to try toput your weight back as far as possible.

Actuate both brakes simultaneously and bear in mindthat, due to the weight transfer, the front brakes cangenerate a far better braking effect on a surface withgood grip.

The assignment of brake lever to brake pad, e.g. leftlever acts on front brake, can vary. Have the brakeschanged, as you want them, before your first ride.

With disc brakes too, prolonged braking or permanentdragging of brake pads can overheat the brake sys-tem. This can result in a loss of braking power, evento the point of total brake failure, provoking seriousaccidents.

Therefore, check your riding manners and make it ahabit to brake hard and then to open the brake again,whenever the road surface and the situation allowsit. It is better to stop for a moment and let the rotor or

rim cool down rather than to risk anything.

BRAKE SYSTEM

Brake lever

Braking leads to a forward shifting of the rider’s weight

Be careful while getting used to thebrakes. Practise emergency stops in a

place clear of traffic until you have perfect com-mand of your Canyon. This can save you fromhaving accidents.

! Wet weather reduces your braking power.Be aware of longer stopping distances

when riding in the rain!

Disc brake

58 59BRAKE SYSTEM DISC BRAKES BRAKE SYSTEM

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BRAKES – HOW THEY WORK AND WHAT TO DOABOUT WEAR

Actuating the hand lever on the handlebar causes astationary brake pad to be pressed against a rotat-ing braking surface, and the resulting friction slowsdown the wheel. The rate of deceleration is not onlydetermined by the force with which the brake pad ispressed against the braking surface, but also to adecisive degree by the coefficient of friction, whichdepends on the two materials that are rubbed againsteach other.

When water, dirt or oil gets in contact with one of theengaging surfaces, this changes the coefficient offriction. This is why disc brakes respond at a slightdelay and less powerfully in wet weather. The frictiongenerated by braking causes wear to the brake padsas well as to the rotors! Frequent rides in the rain has-ten wear on both engaging surfaces.

i Wet conditions and/or a heavily cloggedbrake can lead to squeaking noises during

braking.

Leakages in the lines of hydraulic brakesmay render them ineffective. Remove such

leakages immediately, otherwise risk of accident!

Disc brake

! Make sure that the rotors and brake padsremain absolutely free of grease, lubricant

and wax. Brake pads, once contaminated with oilcannot be cleaned, but have to be replaced!

i When replacing brake pads, be sure to onlyuse marked original spare parts matching

your brake.

CHECKING ANDREADJUSTING DISCBRAKESIn the wet disc brakes respond much faster than rimbrakes. They also require fairly little maintenanceand do not wear down the rims as rim brakes do. Onedrawback of disc brakes is that they tend to be noisywhen they are wet. With disc brakes the brake leverscan be adjusted to the size of your hands, too, allow-ing you to operate them with optimal effectiveness. Inmost cases this is done by means of a small Allen boltlocated directly at the hand lever.

FUNCTIONAL CHECK

Regularly check the lines and connections for leakswhile pulling on the lever. If hydraulic oil or brake flu-id leaks out, you should take appropriate measuresimmediately, as a leak can render your brakes inef-fective. Contact, if necessary, our service hotline at+44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

Check the pads for wear by inspecting the thicknessof the braking material attached to the backing platewithin the brake calliper or view through the win-dow on the upper side of the calliper. If there is ap-proximately 1mm of material left on each brake pad,remove the pads according to the manufacturer’soperating instructions, check them thoroughly andreplace them, if necessary.

Disc brake

Adjusting the gripping distance of the brake lever

i When replacing any parts be sure to onlyuse original spare parts!

i Manufacturers of disc brakes deliver theirproducts with detailed operating instruc-

tions. Be sure to read these operating instruc-tions carefully before you dismount a wheel or doany maintenance work.

Dirty brake pads and rotors can lead todrastically reduced braking power. There-

fore, make sure the brake remains free of oil andother fluids, especially when you clean your bi-cycle or grease the chain. Dirty brake pads canunder no circumstances be cleaned, they must bereplaced! Rotors can be cleaned with warm waterand mild soap. There are also special brake clean-ers available.

Worn down disc brake pads must be replaced

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AVID, FORMULA, MAGURA AND SHIMANO BRAKES

These brake models are equipped with a mechanismwhich automatically compensates for the wear. Be-fore every ride, check whether you get a clear-cutbraking response before the lever touches the han-dlebars. Check at regular intervals, whether thebrake pads are still sufficiently thick.

The brake models of some manufacturers includetransport locks with cut-outs. The brake pads ofthese brakes must be replaced as soon as they fit intothese cut-outs.

Only use original replacement pads and follow theoperating instructions of the brake manufacturers. Ifyou have the slightest doubt, leave this job to a skilledmechanic.

Brake pad check of an AVID brake – the carrier plate must not touchthe disc

Brake pad check of a Shimano brake – the carrier plate must nottouch the disc

i New brake pads have to be bedded inbefore they reach their optimal braking

performance. Accelerate your Canyon 30 to 50times to around 30 km/h (18 mph) and bring it to

a halt each time.

i For more information visit the followingwebsites:

www.formulabrakeusa.comwww.formula-brake.itwww.magura.comwww.paul-lange.comwww.sram.com

Loose connections and leaky brake linesdrastically impair braking power. If there

are any leakages in the system or lines bent, con-tact an expert or call our service hotline at +44 (0)20 8501 2582. Risk of a crash!

i With the wheels dismounted, do not actu-ate the brake levers. This would cause thebrake pads to come closer, making it difficult toremount the wheel. Mount the enclosed transportlocks after dismounting of the wheels.

carrier plate

rotor

brake pad

carrier plate

brake pad

rotor

Disc brakes are susceptible to overheat-ing during braking. Therefore, do not touch

the disc or brake caliper after extensive usage of

your brake, e.g. after riding downhill.

Do not transport your Canyon with saddleand handlebars upside down – risk of

brake failure.

THE GEARSThe gears on your Canyon serve to adjust your pedal-ling power to the slope of the road, wind conditions,and the desired speed. The gears do not reduce thephysical work to be performed which remains thesame with the identical distance to be performed at

identical speed, but the pedalling force per crank ro-tation. In other words: A low gear allows you to climbsteep hills with moderate pedalling force. You have topedal, however, relatively fast.

Downhill you switch to a high gear. Every turn ofthe pedals takes you many metres forward at corre-spondingly high speed. To ride economically you fre-quently have to switch gears. As with a motor vehicle,your “engine” wants to be kept within a certain speedrange, if it is to give its best performance.

On level ground your pedalling speed, also referred toas cadence, should be higher than 60 strokes a min-

ute. Racing cyclists pedal at a rate between 90 and110 strokes a minute on level ground. When climbinguphill, your cadence will naturally fall off somewhat. Your pedalling should always remain fluent however.Finely graduated adjustments as well as an easy op-erability of modern bike gears are the best precon-ditions for an efficient riding. In addition, it reduceschain and sprocket wear as well as the strain on yourknee joints.

Derailleur gears

Front derailleur

! Always wear straight-cut trousers or usetrouser clips or the like to make sure your

trousers do not get caught in the chain or chain-wheels, throwing you off your bike.

Rear derailleur

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Derailleur gears are the most effective type of trans-mission on bikes. About 97 to 98 percent of thepedalling force performed is transmitted to the rearwheel with well-maintained and greased derailleurgears. The control of the gear system as well as thebraking performance leave nothing to be desired.

With specially designed sprocket teeth, flexible

chains and clearcut lever positions, shifting gearshas become very easy. Most systems have an indi-cator on the handlebars showing the currently usedgear.

THE GEARS - HOW THEY WORK AND HOW TO USETHEM

Shifters in form of gear levers work in two differentways. With most of them pressing the large shiftermoves the chain to the larger chainrings. The smallshifter located in front of the handlebars, from therider’s viewpoint, moves the chain towards the small-er chainrings. This means that any gear shift made by

pushing the large thumb shifter on the right producesa lower gear, while pressing the large thumb shifteron the left moves the chain to the larger chainwheel,thus producing a higher gear.

Press shifter from SRAM

Press shifter from Shimano

i Keep on pedalling without force while youshift. This will lead to a smooth and quiet

gear change and reduce the wear.

Shimano gear shifters are operated with thumb andindex finger, while SRAM gear shifters are exclusivelythumb-operated, i.e. in this case the bigger shiftershifts to a bigger chainring, as well.

The principle of twist grips is different. Twisting theright-hand grip towards you moves the chain to alarger sprocket giving you a lower gear, while the

same movement on the left produces a higher gear bymoving the chain to the larger chainrings. The shift-ing direction may vary in this case, as well.

The shifting of a gear lever is communicated to therear derailleur via bowden cable. Then the rear derail-leur swivels, causing the chain to climb onto the nextsprocket. It is therefore important when changinggears to continue pedalling smoothly without forceas long as the chain is moving between sprockets orchainwheels! There are, however, special guides inthe chainrings which allow for changing gears underforce.

Shift levers from Shimano

Twist grip shifter

Practise changing gears in a place free oftraffic until you are familiar with the func-

tioning of the different levers or twist grips. Ifyou do so in road traffic, your attention might bedrawn off from possible risks.

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Changing gears under load shortens, however, theservice life of your chain considerably. Therefore,avoid changing gears while pedalling with force, inparticular when changing gears with the front derail-leur.

The front derailleurs of Canyon mountain bikes areusually equipped with a very small chainring. They

have 24 or 27 gears. Some gears with particular chainrun should be avoided. Gears with an extremely ob-lique run of the chain enhance a higher inner friction,which reduces the power transmission efficiency andhastens wear of the chain.

An unfavorable run of the chain is when the small-est chainring (front derailleur) is used with one of thetwo or three outermost (smallest) sprockets (rearderailleur) or when the largest chainring is used withone of the inmost (largest) sprockets.

Unfavourable run of the chain – chain on the biggest chainring and

the inmost sprocket

Do not shift under load, as this will shortenthe durability of the chain considerably.

Furthermore, this can lead to a chain-suck, i.e.the chain can get jammed between chainstay andchainrings. Avoid shifting gears while pedallingwith force, in particular when shifting with thefront derailleur.

i Avoid gears which involve an extremely ob-lique run of the chain.

! Adjusting the front and rear derailleuraccurately is a job for an experienced me-

chanic.

i If you want to try adjusting it yourself,be sure to read the operating instructions

of the manufacturer. In case you face any problemwith the gears, please contact our service hotlineat +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

Unfavourable run of the chain – chain on the smallest chainring andthe outmost sprocket

CHECKING AND READJUSTING THE GEARS

The derailleur gears were thoroughly adjusted by theCanyon team before delivery of your Canyon. Thebowden cables may, however, give way on the firstkilometres making gear changing imprecise. This willresult in the chain not wanting to climb onto the nextlarger sprocket.

REAR DERAILLEUR

Increase the tension of the bowden cable by turningthe adjusting bolt through which it passes at theentry to the shift lever or rear derailleur.

After tensioning the bowden cable check wheth-er the chain readily climbs onto the next largersprocket. To do this you either have to turn by handthe cranks or ride your Canyon.

If the chain readily climbs onto the next largersprocket, check whether it also readily shifts to thesmall sprockets when you change to a higher gear. You may need several tries to get the derailleur sys-

tem properly adjusted.

ADJUSTMENT OF LIMIT STOPS

The rear derailleur is equipped with limit screwswhich limit the swivel range of the rear derailleur,thus preventing the rear derailleur and chain fromcolliding with the spokes or the chain from droppingoff the smallest sprocket. The limit screws do notchange their position during normal use:

If your Canyon topples over, the rear derailleur orits attachment might get bent. You should thereforecheck the swivel range after any incident or when

mounting other wheels onto your Canyon.

Shift the gear lever to the highest gear (smallestsprocket). The inner cable is then totally relaxedand the chain will automatically run on the smallestsprocket. Look from the rear at the rear gear clus-ter and check, whether the pulleys are perfectlyaligned with the teeth of this sprocket.

Retightening of the bowden cable at the adjusting bolt of the rearderailleur

Look from the rear at the rear gear cluster and check whether thepulleys are perfectly aligned with the teeth of the adequate sprocket

i Ask a helper to lift the rear wheel. By turn-ing the cranks and shifting through you

can easily check the function.

Limit screws

BILD

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If this is not the case, you have to adjust the posi-tion by means of the limit screw. The limit screws onrear derailleurs are often marked “H” for high gearand “L” for low gear. In this case high gear standsfor high transmission ratio, i.e. with the chain run-ning on the smallest sprocket.

If the screws are not marked, you will have to findout by trial and error. Turn one of the screws count-

ing the number of turns and watch the rear derail-leur. If it does not move, turn the screw back to itsoriginal position.

Turn the screw clockwise to shift the rear derailleurtowards the wheel and anticlockwise to shift it awayfrom the wheel.

Change gears to the biggest sprocket. Be careful asyou do so, as not to let the rear derailleur collidewith the spokes. When the chain runs on the big-gest sprocket, see whether you can take the rearderailleur even further by moving the shift lever tothe end of its travel. Then press the rear derailleurfurther towards the spokes by hand. Spin the wheel.

If the pulley cage touches the spokes or if the chain

begins to move beyond the largest sprocket, youshould reduce the swivel range. Turn the screwmarked “L“, until you are absolutely sure the rearderailleur does not collide with the spokes.

Check the position of the pulley cage towards thesprocket. The gap between pulley and the largestsprocket should leave a clearance of one to twolinks at least.

The rear derailleur is equipped with a bolt locatedat the drop-out front which serves the purpose ofadjusting this clearance. Screw in this bolt until theclearance is as desired. Turn the cranks backwardsfor checking purposes. The pulley should not touchthe sprocket during this movement, as well.

Reduce the swivel range of the rear derailleur with the limit screws

Check whether the rear derailleur remains clear of the spokes

To adjust the clearance between pulley cage and sprocket, turn thebolt located at the front side of the drop-out

! Be sure to go on a test ride in a place freeof traffic, after adjusting the gears of your

bicycle.

Improperly adjusted limit stops or a bentrear derailleur mount can result in a severe

damage to the bicycle and a rear wheel blocking.Risk of an accident!

In case the clearance still does not suffice, chang-ing gears being thus impeded, you have to short-en the chain by one link. This means an increasedtension on the rear derailleur. It must, however, beensured that the chain can run on the largest chain-ring as well as on the largest sprocket. Due to theextremely oblique run of the chain, this gear shouldhowever be avoided.

FRONT DERAILLEUR

Adjusting the front derailleur requires a great deal ofexperience. The range within which the front derail-leur keeps the chain on the chainring without itselftouching the chain is very small. It is often better tolet the chain drag slightly on the derailleur than torisk having the chain fall off the chainwheel, whichwould interrupt the power train of your Canyon.

As with the rear derailleur, the cable of the frontderailleur is subject to lengthening and hence to re-duced precision in gear changing.

Increase the tension of the gear cable by turning theadjusting bolt through which it passes at the entryto the shift lever. This works mainly, as described insection „Checking and readjusting the gears“.

Reduce the swivel range of the front derailleur withthe limit screws.

! The initial adjustment of the front and rearderailleur is a job for an experienced me-

chanic. Maldadjustments may cause severe me-chanical damage. For more information be sureto read the operating instructions of the gearmanufacturer. In case you face any problem withthe gears, please contact our service hotline at+44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

Adjusting the front derailleur is a delicate job. Improper adjustment can cause the

chain to jump off, thus interrupting the powertrain. Risk of an accident! Adjusting the front de-railleur is a job for professionals.

Increase the tension of the bowden cable by turning the adjustingbolt

! After having adjusted the gears and the

chain it is essential to take your Canyonfor a test ride in a level, unfrequented area (e.g.in a parking lot)! If the adjustments turn out to beimproper when riding in road traffic, you may losecontrol over your Canyon.

! Always check after an accident whetherthe guide plates of the front derailleur are

still parallel to the chainrings!

Adjusting the front derailleur

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CRANK GEAR

The SRAM Hammerschmidt allows two different gearratios.

Shifting is performed with a trigger shifter on the leftside. Pressing the big thumb shifter makes for a lowergear ratio.

CHAIN MAINTENANCE

It still holds true that proper lubrication makes forenjoyable riding. What counts is, however, not thequantity, but the distribution and regular applicationof lubricant.

Clean your chain from dirt and lubricant with an oilyrag from time to time. There is no need to use spe-cial degreasers.

Having cleaned the chain as thoroughly as possible,apply chain oil, wax or grease to the chain links.

To lubricate the chain, drip the lubricant onto the

rollers while you turn the crank. This done, pedal through several chain lengths and

then let the chain rest for a few minutes so that thelubricant can disperse.

Finally rub off excess lubricant with a rag so that itdoes not spatter around or attract dirt during riding.

Clean the chain from dirt and oil with a rag

Clean the chain as thoroughly as possible and apply lubricant

i For the sake of the environment, only usebiodegradable lubricants. Bear in mind

that some of the lubricant will always end up onthe ground, especially in wet conditions.

Make sure the rotors and the brake padsremain clear of lubricants, as the brakes

will fail otherwise!

SRAM Hammerschmidt crank gear

CHAIN WEAR

Although the chain is one of the wearing componentsof your Canyon, there are still ways of influencing itsservice life. Make sure the chain is lubricated regu-larly, especially after riding in the rain. Try to only usegears which allow a more or less straight run of thechain. Get in the habit of pedalling at a high cadence

(more than 60 to 70 strokes/minute).

With mountain bikes, chains running on derailleurgears are often worn out as early as after about 800km (500 miles). Heavily stretched chains impair theoperation of derailleur gears. Cycling with a worn-outchain also accelerates the wear of the sprockets andchainrings. Replacing these components is relativelyexpensive compared with the costs of a new chain. Itis therefore advisable to check the condition of thechain at regular intervals.

For this purpose run the chain on the large chain-ring. Take the chain between your thumb and index

finger and try to lift it off the teeth. If you can lift itoff clearly, it is seriously lengthened and in need ofreplacement.

There are accurate measuring instruments for pre-cise chain inspection. Replacing the chain should beleft to an expert, as most of the modern chains arenot equipped with a master link. Instead they have acontinuous design and require special-purpose toolsfor mounting. If you need help, ask a dealer to selectand mount a chain appropriate to your gear system.

Check condition of chain

Professional wear measurement

An improperly riveted chain can break,possibly throwing you off your bike. Let

your chain be replaced by an experienced me-chanic.

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THE WHEELS - TYRES,INNER TUBES AND AIRPRESSUREThe wheels of your Canyon create the contact to the

road or track you are riding on. They are subject toconsiderable stress through the weight of rider andbaggage as well as through bumpy road surfacesor ground. Although wheels are manufactured withgreat care and delivered accurately trued, this doesnot prevent the spokes and nipples from losing a lit-tle tension on the first kilometres. For this reason itmay be that the wheels must be trued up as early asafter you have run them in over about 100 to 300 kilo-metres (60 to 180 miles). Check the wheels regularlyafter you have run them in. It will rarely be necessaryto tighten the spokes.

The wheel consists of hub, spokes and rim. The tyre

is mounted onto the rim so that it encases the innertube. There is a rim tape running around the base ofthe rim to protect the sensitive inner tube against thespoke nipples and the edges of the rim base, whichare often sharp.

If you want to replace a tyre, you need to consider theactual size of the old tyre. It is marked on the side ofthe tyre. There are two designations, the more pre-cise of which uses millimetres. The number sequence57-559 means that the tyre is 57 mm wide when fullyinflated and that it has an inner diameter of 559 mil-limetres. The other designation for this tyre reads26x2.25 which refers to inches. By choosing a bigger

tyre you risk that the tyre drags along the fork or therear frame. Therefore, please mount a tyre of identi-cal dimension.

Wheel

Dimension and air pressure range of the tyre

Rim tape in the rim

If you mount a new tyre with another sizethan the standard tyre mounted, it might

be possible that the clearance between the frontof your shoe and the wheel will be reduced whenyou ride at reduced speed. During compression ofthe suspension system a wheel can get jammed,as well. Risk of an accident!

Tyres have to be inflated to the correct air pressure inorder to work properly. Adequately inflated tyres arealso more resistant to flats. An insufficiently inflatedinner tube can easily get pinched (“snake-bitten”),when it goes over a sharp kerb.

The air pressure recommended by the manufactureris given on the side of the tyre or on the type label. The

lower of the two pressure specifications makes forbetter cushioning and is therefore best for off-roadcycling. Rolling resistance decreases with increasingpressure, but so does comfort. A high tyre pressure istherefore most suitable for riding on tarred roads andsmooth paths.

Inflation pressure is often given in the old system ofunits, i.e. in psi (pounds per square inch). The tablegives the most common pressure values in terms ofthree systems.

The tyre and rim alone are not able to hold the air. Ex-cept: Tubeless tyres with mountain bikes. Therefore,

an inner tube has to be placed inside the tyre to retainthe air pressure. The tube is pumped up via a valve.Canyon bikes are equipped with Sclaverand or racevalves, which are meanwhile used on nearly all typesof bikes. This valve is provided with a plastic cap toprotect it from dirt.

Sclaverand valve

Unscrewing the plastic cap

Riding with too low air pressure may makethe tyre come off the rim.

Never inflate your tyres beyond the maxi-mum permissible pressure, otherwise oneof them might burst or come off the rim during theride. Risk of an accident!

If you mount a tyre which is wider than thestandard tyre mounted, the tyre may drag

along the fork crown with a completely com-pressed suspension fork.

psi bar kPa

30 2.1 210

40 2.8 280

50 3.5 350

60 4.1 410

70 4.8 480

80 5.5 550

90 6.2 620

Air pressure in psi, bar and kPa

Tyres allowing an inflation pressure of fivebars or more have to be mounted on hook

bead rims, identifiable by the designation “C”.

72 73WHEELS TYRES AND INNER TUBES RIMS AND SPOKES WHEELS

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Please note that the valves have different diameters.Only use inner tubes with valves matching the rim.Using a wrong valve may cause a sudden loss of airpressure and hence throw you off your bike.

With this valve type it may happen that the valvebody is not screwed in properly and that air leaks outslowly. Check the seat of the valve body in its stem.

Hand pumps are often unsuitable for inflating tyresto high pressure. A better choice is a stand pumpequipped with a manometer which enables you tocheck the pressure at home. There are adapters forall types of valves which allow you to inflate any typeof inner tube at the filling station.

With race or Sclaverand valves the valve must be unscrewed

Valve adapter

i With Sclaverand valves you first have toundo the small knurled nut a little and

press it in carefully until air starts to escape.

Replace tyres with a worn tread or brittleor frayed sides. Dampness and dirt pen-

etrating the tyre can cause damage to its innerstructure.

Always ride your bicycle with the pre-scribed tyre pressure and check the pres-

sure at regular intervals, at least once a week .

! Make sure the valve diameter matches thehole in the rim and the valve is always in

upright position!

Replace spoilt rim tapes immediately.Except: With Mavic system wheels you do

not need rim tapes.

In the extreme case damage to the tyremay make the inner tube suddenly burst,

throwing you off your bike!

RIM TRUENESS,SPOKE TENSIONThe spokes connect the rim to the hub in the mid-dle of the wheel. An even spoke tension makes forthe true running of the wheel. If the tension of indi-

vidual spokes changes, e.g. as a result of riding toofast over a kerb or due to spoke breakage, the tensileforces acting on the rim become unbalanced and thewheel will no longer run true. The functioning of yourCanyon may even be impaired before you notice theuntrue wheel by its wobbling.

Check the wheel trueness

Truing stand

! Loose spokes must be tightened at once.Otherwise the load on the other spokes

and the rim will increase.

! Truing (retruing) wheels is a difficult jobwhich you should definitely leave to an ex-pert.

Do not ride with untrue wheels. Risk of anaccident! It is therefore advisable to check

the wheels for trueness from time to time. For thispurpose lift the wheel from the ground and spin itwith your hand.

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WHEEL FASTENING WITH QUICK-RELEASES

The wheels are attached to the frame at the hub ax-les. Each axle is clamped tight in the drop-outs bymeans of a quick-release.

Quick-releases require no tools at all. Just releasethe lever, unscrew it a few turns, if necessary, and

take out the wheel (see chapter “How to use quick-re-leases and thru axles“ ).

However, a thief will find this just as easy to do! Asan anti-theft measure you can replace the quick-re-leases by special locks. They can only be opened andclosed with a special, coded key or an Allen key .

WHEEL FASTENING WITH THRU AXLE SYSTEMS

There is a wide range of thru axle systems availablenow. Some systems are tightened with quick-releas-es. Other systems may require special tools for as-sembly or disassembly.

Check the fastening after one to two hours in use andthen every 20 hours of use.

i Always observe the enclosed operating in-structions of the fork manufacturer.

Never ride a bicycle without having firstchecked whether the wheels are securely

fastened! A wheel that comes loose whilst ridingwill throw you off your bicycle!

Close the quick-release lever

Thru axle fastening

! If your bicycle is equipped with quick-releases, be sure to lock the frame to animmovable object together with the wheels whenyou leave it outside.

i Canyon mountain bikes are also fittedwith thru axle systems. For more informa-

tion read chapter “How to use quick-releases andthru axles”.

Open the quick-release lever

REPAIRINGPUNCTURESTyre punctures can happen to any cyclist. As long asyou have the necessary tools for changing tyres andtubes and a spare tube or a tyre repair kit, this need

not mean the end of your cycle tour, however. Forbikes with quick-releases all you need for changingtubes are two tyre levers and a pump; if your wheelsare secured with nuts or anti-theft lock you also needa suitable wrench for removing the wheel.

WHEEL REMOVAL

If your Canyon has V-brakes you first have to dis-engage the brake cable from the brake arm. To dothis grip around the wheel with one hand and pressthe brake pads and arms together. In this positionit should be easy to disengage the usually bar-rel-shaped nipple or, in the case of V-brakes, the

outer cable. With hydraulic disc brakes make sure not to ac-

tuate the brake lever with the wheel belonging tothat brake being dismounted. When remounting thewheel, check that the rotor does not drag along thebrake caliper. Avoid touching the rotors immediate-ly after braking, as they get very hot and you mighthurt yourself.

If you have derailleur gears, you should shift thechain to the smallest sprocket before removingthe rear wheel. This shifts the rear derailleur rightto the outside where it does not interfere with theremoval of the wheel.

Open the quick-release, as described in chapter

“How to use quick-releases and thru axles”. If youcannot remove the wheel after releasing the lever ornut, it is probably still being held in place by drop-out catches. They come as projections which jutinto the droup-outs. In these cases, just release thequick-release adjusting nut by a few turns and slipthe wheel past the catch.

Shift to the smallest sprocket before removing the rear wheel

Drop-out catches at the fork

i Please read the operating instructions ofthe brake and the gear manufacturer, en-

closed with the BikeGuard.

! Do not pull the (disc) brake lever with a re-moved wheel and make sure to mount the

safety locks when removing the wheel!

Rotors can become hot, so let them cooldown before removing a wheel.

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You will find it easier to remove the rear wheel, ifyou pull the rear derailleur rearwards a little.

Lift your Canyon a little off the ground and give thewheel a light blow with your hand so that it dropsout.

REMOVING CLINCHER AND FOLDING TYRES

Screw the valve cap and the fastening nut off thevalve and deflate the tyre completely.

Press the tyre from the rim side towards the centreof the rim. You will find it easier to remove the tyre,if you do this around its entire circumference.

Apply the plastic tyre lever to one bead of the tyreabout 5 cm left or right from the valve and lever thetyre out of the rim. Hold the tyre lever tight in itsposition.

Slip the second tyre lever between rim and tyre ata point about ten centimeters beyond the first oneand lever the next portion of the bead over the edgeof the rim.

After levering a part of the tyre bead over the edge

of the rim you should normally be able to slip offthe whole tyre on one side by moving the tyre leveraround the whole circumference.

Now you can pull out the inner tube. Take care thevalve does not get caught, as this can damage theinner tube.

Pull the rear derailleur slightly to the rear to remove the rear wheel

Press the tyre towards the centre of the rim

Apply the tyre levers and lift the tyre bead over the rim edge

Remove the inner tube from the tyre

Repair the puncture according to the operating in-structions of the repair kit manufacturer.

After having removed the tyre, you should checkthe rim tape. The tape should lie squarely in thebase of the rim covering all spoke ends and shouldneither be torn nor brittle. In the case of rims withdouble base – known as double chamber rims – thetape must cover the entire rim base. For this type

of rim only use rim tapes made of fabric or dura-ble plastic. In case you are not sure with regard toyour rim tape, please contact our service hotline at+44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

If necessary, you can remove the whole tyre by pull-ing the other tyre bead off the rim.

MOUNTING CLINCHER AND FOLDING TYRES

When mounting a tyre make sure no foreign mattersuch as dirt or sand gets inside the tyre and you donot damage the inner tube.

Slip one bead of the tyre onto the rim. Using your

thumbs, press the bead over the edge of the rimover the entire circumference. You should be ableto do this without any tools, regardless of the typeof tyre. Stick the valve of the tube through the holein the rim.

Inflate the inner tube slightly so that it becomesround and push it into the tyre all the way round.Make sure not to leave any folds in the tube.

To finish mounting the tyre start at the point oppo-site the valve. Using your thumbs, press the secondbead of the tyre over the edge of the rim as far asyou can.

Make sure the inner tube does not get pinched andsquashed between tyre and rim. This is prevented

by pushing the inner tube into the tyre hollow with afinger as you work along.

Rim tape in the rim

If the fabric of the tyre is destroyed by theperforating object, replace the tyre as a

precaution.

Replace spoilt rim tapes immediately.

Put he valve into the rim hole

Press the tyre with your hand onto the rim


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Work the tyre into the rim by approaching the valvesymmetrically from both sides. Towards the end youwill have to pull the tyre vigorously downwards tomake the already mounted portion of the tyre sliptowards the deepest part of the rim base. This willease the job noticeably on the last centimetres.

Check again the proper seat of the inner tube insidethe tyre and press the last stretch of tyre over the

edge of the rim by using the balls of your thumb. If this does not work, you will have to use tyre le-

vers. Make sure the blunt ends point towards theinner tube and the inner tube does not get dam-aged.

Press the valve deep into the tyre so that the in-ner tube does not get caught between rim andtyre beads. Does the valve stand upright? If not,dismount one bead again and reposition the innertube.

To make sure the inner tube does not get pinchedbetween rim and bead, inflate the tyre a little andthen move it sideways back and forth between thesides of the rim. While doing this you can also check

whether the rim tape has been displaced. Inflate the inner tube only to the desired pressure.

The maximum pressure is indicated on the side ofthe tyre.

Check the proper seat of the tyre by means of the“witness line” on the side of the tyre just above theedge of the rim. Make sure the witness line is evenwith the rim edge all the way around the tyre.

Press the tyre to both sides to make sure the inner tube does not getcaught between rim and tyre beads

Witness line all around the side of the tyre

i If you have a puncture en route, you cantry to repair the tube without dismounting

the wheel and without removing the entire innertube. Leave the valve sticking in the rim and firstlook for the hole where the air escapes. Pump upthe inner tube. Bring the inner tube close to yourear and watch out for hissing noises. When youhave found the hole, look for the correspondingplace on the tyre and examine it. Often you willfind the foreign body sticking in the tyre. Removeit, if necessary.

REMOVING TUBELESS/UST TYRES

Deflate the tyre completely. Use your hands to pressthe tyre from the sides towards the centre of the rim,until both beads lie slack in the centre of the rim.Start dismounting the tyre at the point opposite thevalve and lift one tyre bead with your fingers over theedge of the rim. Slip the entire tyre bead over the rim.

Then pull the other bead off the rim, as well.

REPAIRING TUBELESS/UST TYRES

In the event of a puncture tubeless tyres also workwith an inserted inner tube. First remove the perfo-rating object from the tyre. Dismount the valve fromthe rim, as well. Insert a slightly inflated inner MTBtube into the tyre. Mount the tyre as described aboveand make sure it is properly seated in the rim and in-flated to the specified pressure. Tubeless tyres canbe sealed on the inside with a conventional repairpatch. Follow the operating instructions of the repairkit manufacturer.

Press the tubeless tyre towards the centre of the rim

Improper mounting may cause malfunc-tion or even brake failure. It is therefore

absolutely necessary to follow the manufacturer ’soperating instructions enclosed with the delivery.


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MOUNTING TUBELESS/UST TYRES

Before mounting a tyre make sure it is free of dirtand lubricant on the inside and around the beads.Wet both beads all around with soapy water or withtyre fitting lubricant before mounting. Do not use tyrelevers!

Press the tyre onto the rim with your hands only toavoid damage to the beads. Press one bead over itsentire circumference over one edge of the rim. Thenpress the second tyre bead over the rim edge. Cen-tre the tyre in the rim. Make sure the tyre is properlyseated in the rim base and the beads lie symmetri-cally on either side of the valve. Inflate the tyre toits maximimum air pressure. The pressure is usuallyspecified on the side of the tyre.

In doing so the tyre engages with the rim. Checkwhether the tyre is properly seated by inspecting thefine witness line all around the tyre just above theside of the rim. This witness line should be even to

the rim all around the tyre. Finish by adjusting the airpressure through the valve from the maximum pres-sure. Please observe the recommended tyre pressurerange.

Wet both beads all around with soapy water before the mounting

Air pressure range on the side of the tyre

! Tubeless tyres must be mounted on USTrims or UST wheels (Mavic and other man-

ufacturers) only.

Witness line to check the correct seat of the tyre

MOUNTING WHEELS

Mounting the wheel is done in the reverse of dis-mounting. Make sure the wheel is correctly seatedin the drop-outs and accurately centred betweenthe fork legs or the rear and chainstays. Check theproper seat of the quick-release (see chapter “Howto use quick-releases and thru axles” ) and connect, if

necessary, the brake cable immediately!Drop-out

Before you set off again, make sure thedisc brake is not dragging. Make sure the

wheel is correctly and firmly fixed in the drop-outs. After mounting the wheel make sure the ro-tor is free of grease or other lubricants. Be sure todo a brake test!

Improper mounting may cause malfunc-tion or even brake failure. It is therefore

absolutely necessary to follow the manufacturer ’soperating instructions enclosed with the delivery.

If the fabric of the tyre is, however,destroyed by the perforating object, re-

place the tyre as a precaution.

Make sure the quick-release lever is accurately closed

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THE HEADSETThe headset connects fork, stem, handlebars andfront wheel to the frame, but allows them to turnfreely as a unit. It must afford virtually no resistanceto turning, if your Canyon is to go straight, stabiliz-ing itself as it runs. Shocks caused by uneven road

surfaces subject the headset to considerable stress.It may therefore happen to become loose and malad- justed.

CHECKING AND READJUSTING

Check the headset for play by placing your fingersaround the upper head cup.

Bring your weight to bear on the saddle, pull thefront brakes with your other hand and push yourCanyon firmly back and forth with the wheel re-maining on the ground.

If there is play in the bearing, the upper head capwill move noticeably relative to the lower cup.

Another way to check the headset is to lift the frontwheel a little off the ground and then let it drop. Ifthere is play in the bearing, you will hear a rattlingnoise in this area.

To check the bearing for ease of running, lift theframe until the front wheel no longer touches theground. Move the handlebars from the left to theright. The front wheel should turn very easily fromfar left to far right without catching anywhere. Alight tap on the handlebars should be enough toturn the wheel to the side.

Check the headset for play by placing your fingers around the upperhead cup and by moving your Canyon back and forth with actuatedbrake lever

To check the bearing for ease of running, lift the front wheel andmove it

Riding the bike with a loose headset in-creases the stress on fork and bearing.

This may damage the bearing or lead to a forkbreak with serious consequences!

! Adjusting the headset requires a certainamount of experience and should, there-

fore, be left to a skilled mechanic. If you want totry it by yourself, be sure to carefully read the op-erating instructions of the headset manufacturerbeforehand!

Check the secure seat of the stem afterhaving adjusted the bearings, by holding

the front wheel between your knees and trying totwist the handlebars relative to the front wheel.Otherwise, a loose stem can throw you off yourbicycle.

THREADLESS HEADSET: AHEADSET®

The special feature of this system is that the stemis not encased by, but rather clamped onto the forktube, which in this case is threadless. The stem is animportant part of the headset bearings. Its clampingforce secures the bearing in its set position.

Release the clamping bolts located on the sides orrear side of the stem.

Gently tighten a little the countersunk adjustingbolt on the top by using an Allen key.

Realign the stem with the frame so that the handle-bars are not slanted when the wheel points straightahead.

Retighten the clamping bolts located on the side ofthe stem by using an Allen key. Use a torque wrenchand never exceed the maximum tightening torque! You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Rec-ommended tightening torques”, directly on the com-ponents and/or in the manuals of the componentmanufacturers.

Check the headset for play, as described on the pic-ture on the right. Be sure not to adjust the bearingtoo tight.

To do the check stand in front of your Canyon andtake the front wheel between your knees. Take holdof the handlebars and try to turn them relative to thefront wheel. If you are able to turn the handlebars,retighten a little the clamping bolt(s) of the stem.

Adjust the bearing play by means of the countersunk adjusting boltat the top after releasing the clamping bolts on the side

Retighten the clamping bolts located on the side of the stem by usingan Allen key

Try twisting the handlebars relative to the front wheel

Check the secure seat of the stem afteryou have adjusted the bearing! A loose

stem may throw you off your bike!

! Do not tighten this bolt, as it is intended foradjusting the play!

Bear in mind that by overtightening thebolts the stem can crush the steerer tube.

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SUSPENSIONGLOSSARY - SUSPENSION

Spring rate or hardness:The force required to compress the spring a givendistance. A higher rate indicates a higher force re-

quirement per unit of length. With air spring elementsa higher rate means a higher pressure.

Initial spring tension:The initial spring tension of coil springs and elasto-mers can be set within a certain range. This makesthe suspension respond only when exposed to ahigher load. The spring rate remains, however, un-changed. Heavier riders cannot compensate a toosoft spring rate with a higher initial tension.

Rebound damping:Damps / slows down the rebound.

Compression damping:Damps / slows down the compression motion.

Sag:The distance by which the rear shock or fork com-presses (should compress) when the rider assumeshis normal riding position while the bicycle is station-ary.

Lockout:Device blocking the fork or the damper from absorb-ing shocks thus ensuring a smooth riding on tarredroads without vibrations. A lockout must not be acti-vated when riding off-road or downhill.

Platform damping:Increases compression damping and helps eliminatebob. Compared to the lockout mechanism the sus-pension is not inactivated entirely.

Suspension fork

Rear-frame suspension

Lockout

THE SUSPENSIONFORKThere is a clear trend in bicycle technology towardsgreater riding comfort and safer handling. For thisreason Canyon mountain bikes are fitted with sus-

pension forks. The suspension fork gives you bettercontrol of your Canyon when riding cross-countryor on rough road surfaces. It noticeably reduces thestrain on you and your bike caused by mechanicalshocks. While there are various designs on the mar-ket, most suspension forks belong to the categoryof telescopic forks, which function similarly to thespring elements commonly used on motorbikes.

Suspension forks differ in their spring elements andin the way the damping is realised. Suspension is pro-vided by coil springs, special types of plastic knownas elastomers or sealed air compartments or com-binations of these options. The damping is usually

done by oil or by the self-damping properties of theelastomers.

HOW SUSPENSION FORKS WORK

When the front wheel receives an impulse, the lowerfork tubes (also referred to as immersion tubes) areforced upwards. The lower fork tubes travel on thin-ner upper fork tubes which are fixed to the fork crownby means of a bolted connection or a glued or com-pression joint. The fork retracts as a spring inside iscompressed. The spring allows for the fork to extendagain and assume its original position. An undampedspring would instantly extend again, giving a very un-

comfortable ride. The fork is equipped with an oscil-lation damper which prevents the fork from springingback uncontrolled and provides a smooth return trav-el. The telescopic forks differ in their spring elementsand in the type of damping. For elasticity these forksare provided with steel or titanium springs, specialtypes of plastic (also referred to as elastomers) orsealed air compartments or combinations of theseoptions.

Suspension fork

Lockout

i For more information see the suspensionglossary heading this chapter.

Our Canyon mountain bikes are all de-signed to be only used with standard ver-

sion or comparable suspension forks. The use ofdouble bridge forks or of forks of differing effec-tive lengths is not permitted. This could cause se-rious damage to your Canyon, even to the point ofbreakage, and in any case voids your guarantee.Risk of an accident!

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The damping is usually afforded by oil which isenclosed in special chambers. Some models areequipped instead with friction or air damping ele-ments.

For long uphill rides involving hard pedalling outof the saddle it is advisable to activate the lockoutmechanism. On the other hand, for downhill rides on

uneven ground it may be better to open the dampingsystem more or less completely.


To ensure an optimal functioning the fork has to beadjusted to the rider’s weight and its intended pur-pose, even if your Canyon has been delivered withsprings matching your weight. Adjusting the fork toyour needs is easy, if you use a simple trick.

Slip a cable binder onto the upper fork tube so thatit can still shift easily along the tube.

The fork should yield in general when you sit on the

bike, in order to create a sag. With cross-countryand marathon bikes we recommend a sag of approx.10 - 25 %, with enduro and freeride bikes a sag ofapprox. 20 - 40 %. If this is not the case, you haveto change the initial spring tension.

The initial tension of forks with steel springs orelastomer filling can be adjusted to a limited de-gree by a turning knob located in the top area of thefork head, i.e. on the connecting piece of the uppertubes.

With forks that use oil and air, damping is adjustedvia the air pressure in the fork. The pressure mustbe checked at regular intervals with a special-pur-pose pump which is normally made available by the

fork manufacturer. Be sure to observe the manufac-turer’s recommendations.

Ride your Canyon on different kinds of surface andcheck afterwards how much of the fork’s travel wasused. If the cable binder has only moved a few milli-metres, your fork is in too rigid adjustment and youneed to reduce the initial spring tension. If this doesnot help, have the springs replaced.

Slip a cable binder over the upper tube

Find out the spring travel used by means of the displaced cable

binder

Adjust the spring rate with a damper pump

i Almost all fork manufacturers includewell-written operating instructions with

their deliveries. Be sure to read these carefullybefore changing any settings or doing any main-tenance on your fork.

If the cable binder has moved along the entire trav-el range or if you can hear the fork bottom out, thespring is too flexible and you have to increase theinitial spring tension. If the adjustment range is toosmall, have the springs replaced by an expert.

The damping adjustment mechanism is often locat-ed at the top and/or bottom end of the upper forktube, near the drop-outs or on the other fork leg.

Start with maximum damping and approach thedamping ideal for you in quarter to half turns.

If the available adjustment range does not cov-er your needs, you have to replace the springs orshock absorbers. Many manufacturers deliver tun-ing and retrofitting sets. Be sure only to use compo-nents approved by the manufacturer of your fork.

Suspension forks are comparatively sophisticatedcomponents and require a considerable amount ofmaintenance and care. This has led almost all sus-pension fork manufacturers to establish service cen-tres where customers can have their forks thoroughlychecked and overhauled at regular intervals.

Adjusting device of the damping

Activation of lockout mechanism

! Activate the lockout-system only onsmooth lanes or paths.

A fork with a too soft damping may bringthe fork to the point where it no longer re-

bounds when going very quickly over a number ofobstacles. Risk of an accident!

i For more details on suspension fork adjustment and maintenance visit the follow-

ing websites:www.centurion.dewww.manitoumtb.comwww.rockshox.comwww.sportimport.dewww.foxracingshox.comwww.toxoholics.de

!

The suspension fork should be set up and

adjusted in such a way that it does notreach the end of its travel (known as bottomout). A spring rate which is too soft (or too lowan air pressure) can usually be heard or felt asa “clunk” type noise. This noise is caused by thesudden complete compression of the suspensionfork as it reaches bottom out. If the suspensionfork frequently reaches bottom out, it will becomedamaged over time, and so will the frame.

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The following routines are essential for suspensionfork maintenance:

Whatever type of fork you have, make sure the slid-ing surfaces of the upper fork tubes are absolutelyclean. Clean the fork with water and a soft spongeafter every ride. After washing your bicycle, spraythe stanchion tubes of the suspension fork with a

little grease spray or apply a very thin film of hy-draulic oil. Do not use a steam jet or aggressivecleaning agents!

Make it a rule to check all bolted connections ofyour fork at regular intervals.

Keep the upper tubes of the fork legs always clean

i Please read the enclosed manual of thefork manufacturer or visit the according

website.

Suspension forks are of sophisticated de-sign. Leave all maintenance and repair

work to a service centre authorized by the forkmanufacturer. Use a suitable torque wrench andobserve the manufacturer’s torque settings whenchecking the bolted connections on your suspen-sion fork!

When buying a new tyre for your frontwheel, make sure it is not too high. Oth-

erwise it might drag along the fork crown witha completely compressed fork. The front wheelmight get jammed. Risk of an accident!

! Suspension forks are designed in a way toabsorb shocks. If the fork is too rigid and

jammed, the terrain induced shocks pass directlyinto the frame without any damping. The frameis normally not designed to withstand such un-damped stresses. If your bicycle is equipped witha suspension fork including lockout, you shouldkeep in mind not to activate the lockout functionwhen riding over rough terrain, but only whenriding over smooth terrain (tarred roads, smoothtracks).

i Suspension forks are constantly being

sprayed with water and dirt from the frontwheel. Clean them with lots of water after everyride.

FULL-SUSPENSIONFull-suspension bikes are not only equipped with asuspension fork but also with a movable rear framewhich is sprung and shock damped by a shock ab-sorber. Depending on the system the rear shock hasone or more suspension axes with at least two bear-

ings each. Shock absorption is afforded by a steel orair spring, and damping usually by oil.

WHAT TO BEAR IN MIND WHEN ADJUSTING THESADDLE

Full-suspension bikes yield a little when the rider sitson the saddle. This causes the saddle to tilt a littlebackwards, an effect which can be compensated byadjusting the position of the saddle. If you have trou-ble sitting, try lowering the saddle nose a little rela-tive to the usual position.


The spring characteristic of the shock absorber mustbe adjusted to the rider’s weight and sitting posture.The rear shock of the rear swing arm should retractslightly under the rider’s weight to allow for a littlesag. With cross-country and marathon bikes we rec-ommend a sag of approx. 10 - 25 %, with enduro andfreeride bikes a sag of approx. 20 - 40 %.

When the rear wheel passes over a hole, the springwill extend and the suspension mechanism willsmoothen the uneven movement. If the initial springtension is set too high, this effect is lost as the wheelwill already be fully extended. This means the loss of

an important feature of safety and comfort.

Rear-frame suspension

The O-ring on the damper in top position

The O-ring displaced on the damper shows the spring travel used

i For more information see the suspensionglossary heading this chapter.

i Full-suspension bikes have a markedlygreater ground clearance than bikes with-

out suspension. If the saddle is adjusted to itsproper height, you will not be able to reach thefloor with your feet. Set the saddle a little lowerto begin with and practise getting on and off thesaddle.

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The spring should be dimensioned and adjusted insuch a way that the rear shock never bottoms out. Aspring which is too pliable makes itself felt and usual-ly also clearly heard by the hard shocks caused by thesudden complete compression of the shock absorber.If the rear shock frequently bottoms out, it will sus-tain damage in the long term, as will the frame.

Adjust the initial spring tension in a way that yourCanyon yields by approx. 10 – 25 % when you sit onthe saddle of a cross-country and marathon bike andby approx. 20 – 40 % when you sit on the saddle of anenduro and freeride bike.

The damping is adjusted by valves inside. Thesevalves are designed to modify the flow rate of the oiland hence the speed with which the rear shock movesin and out. In this way it is possible to optimise theresponse of your Canyon to obstacles. Furthermore,any oscillatory movement of the rear frame while ped-alling can be reduced. For long uphill rides involvinghard pedalling in sitting it may be advisable to close,

i.e. to eliminate the damping.

On the other hand, for downhill rides on unevenground it may be better to open the damping systemmore or less completely.

Try approaching the exact setting you need in half orquarter turns.

Turn the small handwheel to adjust the damping

! Do not ride your Canyon, if the rear shockbottoms out.

i Almost all manufacturers deliver theirshock absorbers or rear shocks with

well-written operating instructions enclosed. Besure to read them carefully before changing anysettings or doing any maintenance work.

i For more details on the adjustment of your

rear shock visit the websites of the follow-ing manufacturers:www.rockshox.dewww.sportimport.dewww.dtswiss.comwww.manitoumtb.comwww.centurion.dewww.foxracingshox.comwww.toxoholics.de

If your rear shock has steel springs, turn theknurled ring on the spring clockwise (line of visionfrom the adjusting ring to the spring) to increasethe initial spring tension. If you cannot turn the ringon its own, take hold of the spring with your wholehand and turn it together with the knurled adjustingring.

Air-cushioned rear shocks are adjustable via the air

pressure. Only use the pump provided for this pur-pose by the rear shock manufacturer and observethe specified pressure.

On most rear shocks you can adjust the dampingexternally by means of a handwheel. This enablesyou to change the section of the valves in the oilbath and hence the oil flow rate and volume. Turnthe handwheel in small steps and check the rearshock’s response to these changes.

Some models provide for separate adjustment ofcompression and rebound damping. Experiencehas shown that it is best to start with compressiondamping entirely open and to vary rebound dampingfirst. Rebound damping is generally considered sat-

isfactory when the rear frame rebounds once afterdescending from a high kerb.

Finish by adjusting the compression damping. Youwill notice the difference by the speed with whichthe saddle retracts.

Take your Canyon for a test ride on different kinds ofsurface. If the rear shock bottoms out several times,the spring rate or the ratio of the suspension mecha-nism have to be changed:

Steel springs come with different spring rates. Re-placing the springs is a job best left to an expert.

On an air spring rear shock the air pressure has to

be increased. Be sure to observe the manufactur-er’s specifications.

With steel springs the spring tension is altered with the knurled adjusting ring

Air dampers are adjusted by modifying the air pressure

i If you need to turn the adjusting ring of asteel spring by more than three to four

turns to adjust the initial spring tension, read theenclosed manual of the rear shock manufacturer.There may be the need to replace the spring byanother model.

! Activate the lockout-system only onsmooth lanes or paths.

i Rear shocks are constantly being sprayedwith water and dirt from the rear wheel.

Clean them with lots of water after every ride.

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TRANSPORT OF YOURCANYON BIKETAKING YOUR CANYON BY CAR

There are several ways of transporting your Canyon

by car. Canyon recommends putting the bike into theboot to take it with you.

Bikes do take away a lot of space inside a boot, butthey are also better protected against dirt, theft anddamage.

Take, however, care that the cables, lights andwires and in particular the gears do not get dam-aged. Protect your Canyon with padding material,such as blankets or the like. This is also a goodidea, when your bike is heavily soiled, so that thedirt does not wipe off on the seat upholstery.

Make sure to secure your bike.

Do not pull on the brake lever after dismounting awheel with a disc brake. This could cause the brakepads to come closer, making it difficult to remount thewheel at a later date. Push the transport fittings intothe brake calipers. Finish by actuating the brake le-vers and securing them with a rubber band or a strap.

If transporting the bicycle inside the boot is impos-sible, nearly every car accessory dealer and carcompany offers carrier systems which allow bicycletransport without disassembly. The usual designinvolves rails fixed to the roof of the car onto whichthe bicycles are fixed with clamps gripping the down

tubes.

Transport by car

Never transport bicycles with disc brakesupside down. This could allow air to enter

the system, making the brakes ineffective. Risk ofan accident!

! Secure your Canyon when transporting itinside a car. In the event of an accident

unsecured loads inside a car may be an additionalrisk for the occupants. Often you will find it nec-essary to dismount one or even both wheels toload the bike into the car. Be sure to read chapter“The wheels”, notably section “Repairing punc-tures”, before removing a wheel.

Do not use a carrier system on which thebike has to be mounted upside down, i.e.

with the handlebars and saddle fixed face downto the carrier. This way of fastening the bike ex-poses handlebars, stem, saddle and seat post toextreme stress during transport and can lead tofailure of these parts! Do not buy a bike carriersystem where the front wheel has to be removedand your Canyon is secured by the fork. Suspen-sion forks are particularly susceptible to break-age when fastened in this manner.

! Transporting Canyon mountain bikes onconventional bike carriers with clamps is

not permitted. Most clamps are potential sourcesof damage to large-diameter frame tubes! Carbonframes are particularly susceptible to being dam-aged irreparably. Unvisible damage occurring onthis occasion may lead to severe crashes.

Rear carriers are becoming more and more popular.Their big advantage over roof carriers is that you donot have to lift up the bicycles so high to attach them.Make sure the fastenings do not create any damageto the fork or frame. Risk of breakage!

Whatever system you opt for, make sure it complieswith the relevant safety standards of your country!

TAKING YOUR CANYON BY PLANE

If you intend to take your Canyon with you when yougo on a trip by plane, pack it into the BikeGuard orBikeShuttle.

Pack the wheels in special wheel bags to protect theminside the suitcase or cardboard box. Do not forget totake the necessary tools, a torque wrench, bits andthis manual with you to be able to assemble the bi-cycle and to get it ready for use at your destination.

The Canyon BikeGuard

i Please make sure the lights and thenumber plate of your car are not hidden

from view. For some carriers a second exteriorrear view mirror is required by the road trafficregulations.

i Read the operating instructions of yourbicycle carrier and observe the maximum

load capacity and recommended or prescribeddriving speed.

Check whether your bicycle is properlyfastened before and at regular intervals

during the ride. A bicycle that detaches from theroof carrier may endanger other road users.

! Bear in mind that your car has a greateroverall height with the bicycle on it. Meas-

ure the overall height and place a sign stating theheight somewhere in the cockpit or on the steer-ing wheel so that it can be easily seen.

! In the event your Canyon has not beenpacked for dispatch according to the en-

closed packing instructions, you have no right to

claim repair of possibly occurring transport dam-

age from Canyon Bicycles GmbH.

The Canyon BikeShuttle

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GENERAL NOTES ONCARE AND INSPECTION Your Canyon is a product of high quality and technol-ogy. Nevertheless, as with other types of vehicles,you should still see to it regularly and have an expert

do the scheduled maintenance work.

Lightweight bikes need to have their safety-relevantcomponents replaced regularly (see chapter “Serviceand maintenance schedule” ). This is essential to en-sure the safe and sustained functioning of all com-ponents and for your bike to give you many years ofriding enjoyment and safety.

WASHING AND CLEANING YOUR CANYON

Dried sweat, dirt and salt from riding during the winteror in sea air harm your Canyon. You should thereforemake a habit of regularly cleaning all the components

of your Canyon and protecting them from corrosion.

Do not clean your Canyon with a s team jet. This clean-ing method is quick, but it entails serious drawbacks.As the water is ejected at high pressure in a narrowlyfocussed jet, it may pass through seals and penetratebearings. This leads to the dilution of lubricants andconsequently to greater friction and onset of corro-sion. This destroys and impairs the functioning of thebearing races in the long term. Steam jet treatmentalso tends to abrade stickers.

Cleaning the Canyon with rag and water

! When working on your Canyon restrictyourself to jobs for which you are equipped

and have the necessary knowledge.

! Do not clean your Canyon with a strongwater or steam jet from a short distance.

i Protect the upward facing part of thechainstay and any places where cables

might rub with foil or the like. This will avoid anyunpleasant scratches and abrasion marks.

Check all lightweight components

A much more gentle way of cleaning your Canyon iswith a soft water jet and/or with a bucket of waterand a sponge or large brush. Cleaning your Canyonby hand has another positive side-effect in that itenables you to discover defects in the paint or wornor defective components at an early stage.

After drying your Canyon you should polish its coat-

ing and metal surfaces with hard wax (except for therotors). Apply the hard wax also to spokes, hubs,bolts and nuts etc. Use a hand-held atomizer forparts with small surfaces. Polish waxed surfaces witha soft cloth to give them a nice shine and make themwater repellent.

Inspect the chain after you have finished cleaningand grease it, if necessary (see chapter “The gears”,notably section “Chain maintenance” ).

Polishing paint and metal surfaces with hard wax

Keep the brake pads and the rotor free ofcleaning agents and chain oil, as the

brakes could fail otherwise (see chapter “Thebrake system”)! Keep carbon clamping areas,such as handlebars, stem, seat post and seat

tube, free of grease and oil.

! Remove tough oil or grease stains witha petroleum-based cleaning agent. Never

use degreasing agents containing acetone, me-thyl chloride etc., non-neutral, chemical or sol-vent-containing cleaning agents that could attackthe surface!

Finish cleaning your Canyon by lubricating the chain

While cleaning, look for cracks, scratches,dents, as well as bent or discoloured ma-

terial. If you are in doubt, please call our servicehotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582. Have defectivecomponents replaced immediately and touch uppaint defects.

! Before applying any hard wax on the frameof your Canyon, be sure to test it in a less

visible spot first!

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SAFEKEEPING AND STORING YOUR CANYON

If you regularly look after your Canyon during theseason, you will not need to take any special pre-cautions when storing it for a short time, apart fromsecuring it against theft. It is advisable to store yourCanyon in a dry and airy place.

There are some things to bear in mind when puttingyour Canyon away for the winter:

Inflated inner tubes tend to gradually lose air whenthe bike is not used for a long time. If your Canyonis left standing on flat tyres for an extended period,this can cause damage to the s tructure of the tyres.It is therefore better to hang the wheels or the entirebike or to check the tyre pressure regularly.

Clean your Canyon and protect it against corrosionas described above.

Dismount the saddle and allow for any moisturethat may have entered to dry away. Spray a littlefinely atomized oil into the seat tube (except for

carbon frames). Store your Canyon in a dry place. Switch the gear to the smallest chainring and the

smallest sprocket. This relaxes the cables andsprings as much as possible.

Store the bike with the chain on outmost sprocket and smallestchainring

If your Canyon has carbon rims, do nothang it on the rims! Risk of breakage!

Hang your Canyon for an extended storing period

Check the tyre pressure at regular intervals

SERVICING AND INSPECTION

First service:A special maintenance schedule has been developedby our experienced technicians. On the first kilome-tres/miles, for example, the wheels may be subjectto a certain bedding in process or bowden and brakecables may stretch, making gear shifting imprecise.

Depending on how much you cycle, the repair of worndown parts may be necessary already. In this caseyou will be contacted by a service technician before-hand.

Regular annual service:Following a long and challenging season we recom-mend that you have your bike thoroughly checked.Who could do this better than those who have builtyour bike?

The annual service will be carried out by our skilledstaff according to a maintenance schedule tailored toyour bicycle type.

Canyon safety check:If you ride your Canyon clearly less than 1,000 km(620 miles) a year, it requires correspondingly lessservicing. In this case the Canyon safety check is ex-actly what you need. Our specialists have developedan extra schedule for this demand-oriented mainte-nance. This schedule includes less routines than anannual service, however all safety-relevant issues.We recommend that you have this check carried outbefore setting off into the new bike season or beforegoing on a bike trip so that you can take off withouta care.

Please make an appointment in advance to ensurethat your Canyon runs through this check as quicklyas possible.

i In case you pack your Canyon to send it into the Canyon workshop, be sure to strictly

follow the packing instructions “How to pack yourmountain bike” enclosed with the BikeGuard.

In particular lightweight components mayhave a reduced service life. For your own

safety make sure to have the components listedin chapter “Service and maintenance schedule”checked at the indicated intervals and replaced,if necessary.

! To be able to enjoy your Canyon for manyyears it needs to be serviced regularly.

The schedule given in chapter “Service and main-tenance schedule” is a rough guide for cyclistswho ride their bike between 750 and 1,500 km

(460 and 930 miles) a year. If your Canyon doesharder service, either because your mileage isconsistently greater or because you ride a greatdeal on poor road surfaces or cross-country, itwill require correspondingly shorter maintenanceperiods. This includes frequent rides in the rain orgenerally in moist conditions, as well.

! If a component needs to be replaced, makeit a rule to only use original spare parts.

i You will find numerous service details onour website www.canyon.com that will

help you carry out small repair and maintenanceworks. Never do work on your bicycle unless youfeel absolutely sure about it! If you are in doubtor if you have any questions, contact our servicehotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582!

98 99SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

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SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

After the bedding-in period you need to have yourbike serviced by an expert at regular intervals. Theintervals given in the schedule below are supposedto be guidelines for cyclists who cycle around 750 to1,500 kilometres or 460 to 930 miles a year (around

Component What to do Before every Monthly Annually Other

ride intervals

Lighting Check •

Tyre equipment Check pressure •

Tyre equipment Check tread and side walls •

Brakes (disc) Check wear of brake pads •

Brake cables/lines Visual inspection x

Rear shock Service x

Suspension fork Check bolts x

Suspension fork Change oil, service x

Fork (aluminium Check x

and carbon) At leastevery2 years

Replace x after fall or after 3 years

Bottom bracket Check bearing play x

Bottom bracket Regrease x

Chain Check and/or lubricate •

Chain Check and/or replace x

After750 km

(460 miles)

Crank Check and/or retighten xJobs marked “•” you should be able to do yourself, provided you have a certain degree of manual skill, a little experienceand suitable tools, this including e.g. a torque wrench. If you come across any defects, take appropriate measures withoutdelay. If you have any questions, please call our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

Jobs marked “x” should be left to an experienced and skilled bicycle expert (e.g. in an authorized, specialist bicycleworkshop). Feel free to call our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

50 to 100 hours). If your Canyon does harder service,either because your mileage is consistently greater orbecause you ride a great deal on poor road surfaces,it will require correspondingly shorter service inter-vals.

Component What to do Before every Monthly Annually Otherride intervals

Coating Polish •At leastevery

6 months

Wheels/ Check wheel trueness and tension •spokes

Wheels/ True and/or retrue xspokes If necessaryHandlebar and stem Check xcarbon and At leastaluminium every

2 years Replace x after fall or after 3 years

Headset Check bearing play •

Headset Regrease xMetal Polish (except for rotors) •surfaces At least every

6 monthsHubs Check bearing play •

Hubs Regrease x

Pedals Check bearing play x

Pedals Clean locking mechanism •

Rear derailleur/ Clean, grease •Front derailleur

Quick-release Check seat •

Bolts and nuts Check and/or retighten x

Valves Check seat •

Stem/ Dismount and regrease or xseat post reapply carbon assembly paste

(Caution: Do not grease carbon parts)

Gear/ brakes cables Remove and grease x

Jobs marked “•” you should be able to do yourself, provided you have a certain degree of manual skill, a little experienceand suitable tools, this including e.g. a torque wrench. If you come across any defects, take appropriate measures withoutdelay. If you have any questions, please call our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.Jobs marked “x” should be left to an experienced and skilled bicycle expert (e.g. in an authorized, specialist bicycleworkshop). Feel free to call our service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

100 101RECOMMENDED TIGHTENING TORQUES RECOMMENDED TIGHTENING TORQUES

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RECOMMENDED TIGHTENING TORQUES

Component Bolted connection Shimano* SRAM **

Rear derailleur Fastening bolt 8-10 Nm 8-10 Nm

Cable fixing bolt 5-7 Nm 4-5 Nm

Pulley bolt 3-4 Nm

Front derailleur Fastening bolt 5-7 Nm 5-7 Nm

Cable fixing bolt 5-7 Nm 5 Nm

Shift lever Fastening bolt for gear shifter pod 5 Nm 2.5-4 Nm

Hole covering 0.3-0.5 Nm

Clamp fixing bolt (Allen bolt) 5 Nm

Cable stop on frame 1.5-2 Nm

Hub Quick-release lever 5-7.5 Nm

Counter nut for bearing adjustment with 10-25 Nm

quick-release hubs

Free-wheel hub Sprocket cluster lock ring 30-50 Nm 40 Nm

Crank set Crank fixing bolt (cotterless, grease-free) 35-50 Nm

Crank fixing bolt (Shimano Octalink) 35-50 Nm

Crank fixing bolt (Shimano Hollowtech II) 12-15 Nm

Crank fixing bolt Isis 31-34 Nm

Crank fixing bolt Gigapipe 48-54 Nm

Chainring bolt 8-11 Nm 12-14 Nm (steel)

8-9 Nm (alu)

Sealed cartridge Shell Shimano Hollowtech II 35-50 Nm 34-41 Nm

SRAM Gigapipe

Bottom bracket Octalink 50-70 Nm

Pedal Pedal axle 35 Nm 31-34 Nm

Shoe Cleat bolts 5-6 Nm

Spike 4 Nm

Seat post Fixing bolt of seat clamp 20-29 Nm ***

at seat post head

* www.shimano.com

** www.sram.com

*** These are guide values given by the above-mentioned component manufacturers.

Observe any values given in the component manufacturers’ operating instructions.

The Canyon torque wrench

Mounting the handlebars with the Canyon torque wrench

i Some components are directly markedwith the necessary tightening torque.

Strictly observe the torques given on the labels orimprints.

102 103RECOMMENDED TIGHTENING TORQUES

C F

RECOMMENDED TIGHTENING TORQUES

DISC BRAKES

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Canyon Frame:Bottle cage bolts 4.5 NmReplaceable derailleur hanger 1.5 Nm

Canyon seat post clamp: 3-5 Nm

If your mountain bike is equipped with a quick-re-lease lever, read chapter “How to use quick-releases

and thru axles”.

Please use the following torques, unless otherwiseindicated by the stem or seat post manufacturer onthe component itself or in the respective assemblyinstructions.

Stem:M5 bolts 4.5-5.5 NmM6 bolts 8-9.6 NmAdjusting bolt (on top) 0.5-2 Nmwith Ahead stems

Seat post:

Saddle clamp at seat post head Seat posts with single bolt 20-24 Nm Seat post with two bolts 6-9 Nm in line Seat post with two bolts side-by-side 12-14 Nm in direction of motion Seat post Monorail 8 Nm

Tightening torque

i With steerer tubes made of carbon (black-coloured) tighten the stem with a maxi-

mum torque of 6 Nm.

All bolted connections on the components

of your Canyon have to be tightened care-fully and checked regularly to ensure the safeoperation of your bike. This is best done with atorque wrench that switches off as soon as thedesired torque has been reached. Tighten thebolts carefully by approaching the maximum per-missible torque in small steps. Check the secureseat of the component, as described in the rele-vant chapters. For parts without torque specifica-tions, tighten the bolts gradually and check in be-tween whether the component is already fastenedsufficiently, as described in the relevant chapters.Do not exceed the maximum torque.

i Some components are directly markedwith the necessary tightening torque.

Strictly observe the torques given on the labels orimprints.

i Also read the enclosed manuals of thecomponent manufacturers, if necessary,

or visit the Canyon website at www.canyon.com

DISC BRAKES

Shimano Magura Avid Formula

Brake caliper bolt at frame/fork 6-8 Nm 6 Nm 5-7 Nm (RW) 9 Nm

9-10 Nm (FW)

Brake lever clamp bolt 6-8 Nm 4 Nm

Single-bolt clamping 4-5 Nm

(Juicy 5)Double-bolt clamping 2.8-3.4 Nm 2.5 Nm

(Juicy 7/carbon)

Sleeve nuts on brake lines near lever 5-7 Nm 4 Nm 5 Nm 5 Nm

and normal brake line on caliper alu clamping

7.8 Nm

steel clamping

Barbed fittings for brake lines at 5-7 Nm 6 Nm

brake caliper (disc tube)

Cap bolt 0.3-0.5 Nm 0.6 Nm

Setscrew for bleeder hole 4-6 Nm 2.5 Nm

Rotor bolts on hub 4 Nm 4 Nm 6.2 Nm 5.75 Nm

Brake cable connection to brake lever 8 Nm

Disc brake

! Be sure to always follow the operating in-structions of the component manufacturer

when doing any work at the brake system.

104 105

LEGAL REQUIREMENTS

LEGAL REQUIREMENTS

WARRANTY

WARRANTY AND GUARANTEE

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LEGAL REQUIREMENTSFOR RIDING ON PUBLICROADSIn Great Britain

(as of January 2011)According to the Highway Code in Great Britain yourbicycle must be fitted as follows:

1. Lighting, rear lights, reflectors:At night the bicycle must be fitted with the followinglighting:- front light, white- rear light, red- pedal reflectors, amber (for all bicycles manufa-

tured after October 1, 1985)

In addition, it should be fitted with:- front reflector, white

- spoke reflectors[Law RVLR regs 13, 18 & 24)]

It is not required that the prescribed lighting ismounted upon sale of the bicycle. If it is, however, itmust comply with these regulations.

Bicycles that are only used with good daylight visibil-ity, such as e.g. road racing bicycles, are exempt fromthe lighting regulations.

2. Signalling devicesIt is recommended that a bell be fitted.

3. Cycle helmetsWearing a cycle helmet is not compulsory.

4. Taking Children with YouThere are no rules as to the transport of children withbicycles.

5. TrailersThere are no rules as to the usage of trailers.

6. Other issuesUsing cycle lanes is not compulsory.

i For further information see:

http://www.adfc.de http://www.direct.gov.uk/ http://www.dft.gov.uk http://www.ctc.org.uk/

(Cyclists’ Touring Club)

Front light with test symbol

Rear light with test symbol

WARRANTY Your bike was manufactured with care and deliveredto you largely preassembled. We are obliged by law toguarantee that your bike is free of any defects whichconsiderably reduce its value or fitness for use ormake it worthless or useless. You have full warrantyrights within the first two years after purchase. Weare your contact in the event of defects and you canget in touch with us at the s tated address.

In order for your claims to be processed smoothly it isnecessary that you present your receipt. Therefore,please keep your receipt in a safe place.

To ensure a long service life and good durability ofyour bike only use it for its intended purpose (seechapter “Intended use” ). Also observe the permissi-ble load specifications and the instructions on trans-porting baggage and children (see chapter “Intendeduse” ). The manufacturers’ assembly instructions(above all the torque settings for bolts) and the pre-scribed maintenance intervals must be strictly fol-lowed, as well. Please observe the tests and routineslisted in this manual or in any other manual enclosedwith this delivery (see chapter “Service and mainte-nance schedule” ) as well as any instructions as to thereplacement of safety-relevant components, such ashandlebars, brakes etc.

We wish you safe and happy cycling wherever yourbike takes you. If you have any questions, please callour service hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

Always use your bike for its intended use

! The rear shock mountings of full-suspension frames are designed in a way

to absorb shocks, what is absolutely necessary.If the rear shock is too rigid and jammed, the ter-rain induced shocks pass directly into the framewithout any damping. The frame is normally notdesigned to withstand such undamped stresses.Please note that shock absorbers with lockoutfunction must not be used in rough terrain, butonly on smooth surfaces (roads, smooth trails)when the lockout function is activated.

i Enclosed with the delivery you will find theoperating instructions of the component

manufacturers. Here you will find all details aboutuse, maintenance and care. This manual containsmultiple references to these specific and detailedoperating instructions. Please make sure the in-dividual operating instructions for clipless pedalsand gear and brake components are in your pos-session and keep them in a safe place together

with this leaflet and the manual.

i Carbon is a composite material which isused for weight-optimised designs. Sur-

face irregularities on carbon components (smallboils and pores) are unavoidable for reasons in-herent in the manufacturing process. This doesnot constitute a defect.

106 107

A NOTE ON WEAR

WARRANTY AND GUARANTEE WARRANTY AND GUARANTEE

GUARANTEE

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A NOTE ON WEAR

Some components of your bike are subject to weardue to their function. The rate of wear depends oncare and maintenance as well as on the way you useyour bike (kilometres travelled, rides in the rain, dirt,salt etc.). Bikes that are often left standing in theopen may also be subject to increased wear throughweathering.

These components require regular care and mainte-nance. Nevertheless, sooner or later they will reachthe end of their service life, depending on conditionsand intensity of use.

Parts that have reached their limit of wear must bereplaced. This applies to the following parts: chain, cables, grip coverings or bar tape, chainrings, sprockets, pulleys, gears cables, tyres, saddle covering (leather) and brake pads.

The brake pads of disc brakes are subject to weardue to their function. If you use your bike for com-petitive cycling or in hilly terrain, they may have to bereplaced quite frequently. Regularly check the condi-tion of the pads and have them replaced by a dealer.

BEARINGS AND REAR SHOCKS OF FULL-SUSPENSIONFRAMES

Rear shocks and full-suspension frames are to someextent subject to wear due to their function. This ap-plies in particular to the seals of the rear shock andthe bearings of the rear frame. Overtightened rearshock fastening bolts subject the frame to extremestress and can lead to consequential damage. There-fore, observe the assembly instructions and use atorque wrench.

Brake pads with a width of less than a millimetre must be replacedwith original spare parts

Bearings are subject to wear

GUARANTEEOver and above the statutory warranty we give a vol-untary guarantee of altogether 6 years on mountainbike frames (except for bearings and rear shocks).

This guarantee runs from the date of purchase andonly applies to claims made by the initial buyer. Itdoes not cover paint damage. We reserve ourselvesthe right to repair defective frames or forks or to re-place them with the relevant successor model. Theseissues can be claimed under guarantee only. Addi-tional costs, such as assembly and transport costsetc, shall not be borne by us.

The guarantee does not cover damage caused byimproper or other than the intended use, such asneglect (poor care and maintenance), crashes, over-loading or resulting from changes made to the frameor fork or from the mounting or remounting of addi-tional components. Damage resulting from jumps orother types of overstress are likewise not covered bythe guarantee.

Six-year guarantee

Canyon mountain bikes are high-endsports equipment, representing light-

weight construction as pinnacle of engineering.Also be a professional when it comes to handlingof the material. Misuse, unprofessional assemblyor insufficient servicing can render the racing ma-chine unsafe. Risk of an accident!

108 109CRASH REPLACEMENT

CRASH REPLACEMENT

PURE CYCLING

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CRASH REPLACEMENTIn the event of an accident or severe crash, the highforces exerted on the frame and the fork can lead tostructural failure during subsequent use. With ourCrash Replacement (CR) program we offer you theopportunity to replace your damaged Canyon frameat a greatly reduced cost. This offer is valid up tothree years after the date of purchase. You’ll receivethe same or a similar frame (without add-on partssuch as seat post, front derailleur, rear shock orstem) from our current product range.

The CR-service is limited to the original owner andto damages that compromise the functionality of thebike. We reserve the right to suspend this service ifwe detect that the damage has been caused unrea-sonably.

In order to claim the CR-service, please contact ourservice hotline at +44 (0) 20 8501 2582.

For more details visit our website at www.canyon.com

Crash Replacement – Damaged Canyon frames are replaced at re-duced prices

i For more information about the use, readchapter “Intended use”.

You will find us easily at Karl-Tesche-Strasse 12, Koblenz. Coming frommotorway junction A48, exit Koblenz Nord, follow the road B9 in directionof Koblenz. On the Mosel Bridge filter to the second lane from the rightinto the city roundabout.Take the first exit in direction of Cochem. After approx. 1 km (0.6 miles)turn right at the first traffic light.

Canyon Bicycles GmbH / Karl-Tesche-Straße 12/ D-56073 KoblenzShowroom - opening hours: Mon – Fri 10.00am – 7.00pm; Sat 9.00am – 6.00pm

Order and information hotline: +44 (0)20 8501 2582 / Order-fax: +4 9 (0)261 4040050 / E-Mail: [email protected] hours: Mon – Fri 9.00am – 6.00pm; Sat 9.00am – 3.00pm

canyon mtb en 2014

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