Calm Dog™ Training

SECRETS TO A CALM DOG CLIENT REFERENCE EDITION

BY TONY OKRONGLY, DFW CALM DOG TRAINER

www.DFWCalmDog.com

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Copyright 2010 Anthony Okrongly, all rights reserved. www.dfwcalmdog.com, gooddog@dfwcalmdog.com. Cannot be reprinted or distributed without written permission. “Calm Dog”™ is a trademark of Calm Dog Training and Anthony Okrongly. Dog training can be a dangerous activity. Dogs can and do bite without warning. If you are concerned about trying any of the techniques in this book consult an experienced trainer at dfwcalmdog.com. DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY TECHNIQUES IN THIS BOOK THAT YOU BELIEVE WILL CAUSE YOUR DOG TO BITE YOU, ANYONE ELSE, OR OTHER ANIMALS. IF YOU ARE ATTEMPTING SOMETHING THAT YOU FEEL IS DANGEROUS ALWAYS HAVE THE DOG BEING TRAINED ON A LEASH AND WEARING A MUZZLE FOR SAFETY.

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Contents Thank You… ............................................................................................ 5

This Guide’s Purpose .......................................................................... 6

Safety ......................................................................................................... 7

Safety with Children ............................................................................ 8

Helping Dogs CALM DOWN ......................................................... 9

Steps to a Calm Dog – One Example ........................................ 11

Puppy to 3 Years ................................................................................ 14

Use a Leash .......................................................................................... 15

4 Steps to Leadership of Your Dog ............................................ 16

Leadership............................................................................................. 17

Take Leadership For Your Dog’s Own Good........................ 18

How To Take Leadership ............................................................... 18

Leadership Means Leading ............................................................ 21

3 Ways To Respond To Behaviors ............................................. 22

How to Disagree With Your Dog ............................................... 23

How to Do a Proper Leash Correction ...................................... 25

Using a Blue “Calm Dog” Collar ................................................ 27

Taking Ownership ............................................................................. 28

Blocking and Projecting Energy .................................................. 30

Exercise .................................................................................................. 32

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The Walk ............................................................................................... 33

The Two Leash Walking Method ................................................ 35

Exercise With a Bike ........................................................................ 36

Directed Exercise (Like Fetch) ..................................................... 38

Controlling Energy Levels ............................................................. 39

CONGRATULATIONS! ................................................................ 41

Keys to: Walking on a Leash ........................................................ 43

Keys to: Stopping Dog Aggression ............................................ 44

Keys to: Stopping Hyperactive Behavior ................................. 45

Keys to: Fixing “Small Dog Syndrome” .................................. 46

Keys to: Fixing “Crazy Dog Syndrome” .................................. 47

Keys to: Stopping Jumping on People ...................................... 48

Keys to: Controlling the Door ...................................................... 49

Keys to: Stopping Demanding Behaviors ................................ 50

Keys to: Stopping Chewing ........................................................... 51

Keys to: Separation Anxiety .......................................................... 52

Keys to: “Medical” Separation Anxiety ................................... 54

Keys to: Stopping “Tantrums” ..................................................... 55

Keys to: General Fear Issues ......................................................... 57

Keys to: Stopping Potty Problems .............................................. 59

E-Collar Training Reminders ........................................................ 62

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THANK YOU… We appreciate your choice to use DFW Calm Dog Trainer

dog training services. We hope that our services created the results that you desired and will continue to improve those results over the coming days, weeks and months.

REFER YOUR FRIENDS

A great dog trainer (who gets results) is like a great mechanic or exceptional book – YOU SHOULD SPREAD THE WORD. We love to hear people say, “My friend referred me to you!” When we hear that, we know we did a great job for you and your dog.

Just say…

“GO TO DFWCalmDog.com”

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THIS GUIDE’S PURPOSE This guide is meant as a “leave behind” for clients of DFW

Calm Dog Trainer services. Lots of information is covered during each training session. Remembering everything is impossible. We try to repeat important concepts and steps during our visit; however, this guide is one more way to help you get the results you want.

This guide covers common topics and exists so that you have a ready reference in the future.

This guide is not meant as a replacement for professional training. The training that we did with your dog included evaluation, analysis of the particular behaviors, testing of methods that work best with your dog, and specific instruction and training that directly addressed your dog’s particular situation.

This guide is meant to help you apply the techniques and knowledge that we covered with your dog during our training session. Please enjoy your New Dog!

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SAFETY Dog training carries the risk of being bitten or causing

someone else (or some other dog) to get bitten. Additionally, dog training with leash corrections and other “touch based” techniques can carry risk to the dog being trained.

When we train a dog at your home we show you the proper ways to correct your dog and discuss the safety risks that your particular dog may have. There is no way to cover all the safety topics possible. Use common sense and an awareness of your own dog’s issues and reactions.

IF AT ANY TIME YOU FEEL THAT YOU ARE ABOUT TO ATTEMPT SOMETHING THAT COULD CAUSE YOUR DOG TO BITE THEN IT’S BEST DONE UNDER SUPERVISION. SINCE NOT ALL TRAINING CAN PRACTICALLY HAPPEN UNDER SUPERVISION THEN YOU SHOULD BE PREPARED TO MUZZLE ANY DOG THAT YOU FEEL IS CAPABLE OF BITING AND CAUSING DAMAGE.

YOUR SAFETY AND THE SAFETY OF THE DOG

SHOULD ALWAYS COME FIRST.

When changing leadership within the pack (both dogs and people), you must be aware that it can change the way the dog relates to other animals and family members. You should always supervise dogs and children – especially during training and for a period of weeks after any training – to ensure rivalries haven’t been established that can be harmful.

We often work with dogs that have a history of biting, nipping, snapping, etc. If your dog has such a history then take special precautions and use the awareness required for your dog’s issues, size and level of potential danger to you and others.

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SAFETY WITH CHILDREN Dogs are animals that think and react in ways that are

different from human reactions. Modern domestic dogs have been bred to have certain common tolerances for children and family situations. However, this is not always the case.

No child should be left unattended with a dog that has shown any sort of aggression in the past.

No child should be put in range of a dog that has shown a disposition that includes biting or lashing out.

Children are incapable of understanding the dangers dogs may pose, so adults must always supervise their interactions with dogs.

Dogs should be protected from children who want to handle them inappropriately. It is often best for dogs to have a crate where they can go be safe from children.

Introducing a new child/infant or dog to a house can be dangerous and should be treated as such. Dogs under 3 years of age are not mature enough to always make balanced decisions. Children often do not make safe choices regarding dogs. Please supervise both!

USE MORE THAN COMMON SENSE REGARDING CHILDREN AND DOGS. THE VAST MAJORITY OF DOG BITES INVOLVE CHILDREN! We often work with aggressive dogs. Just because a dog shows great progress during training and shortly there-after doesn’t mean the dog will be perfect in every new situation. Please always put safety first until you are 100% certain that your dog will not bite. Continue to supervise and train your dog.

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HELPING DOGS CALM DOWN Calm Dog training is based on the concept that high energy

behaviors (Fear, Aggression, Hyperactivity) are caused by the dog stimulating the production of Adrenaline and other high energy chemicals. On the other hand, CALM DOGS are under the influence of Serotonin and other low energy chemicals.

Some dogs seem almost addicted to Adrenaline and will go out of their way to keep finding triggers to produce adrenaline in their system. Other dogs just have a quick adrenaline response to any new stimulus (such as the doorbell or seeing another dog while walking).

Just like a child who has eaten too much sugar and caffeine, a dog on adrenaline is in a Chemically Hyperactive State. The key is to disrupt the adrenaline process and replace the adrenaline with calming chemicals, such as serotonin.

Adrenaline is the primary “fight or flight” chemical in dogs. When released it floods the body with energy. This energy must then be dissipated – generally through jumping, barking, running, lunging, and shaking or trembling.

Adrenaline is produced in FEARFUL, EXCITED and AGGRESSIVE SITUATIONS. That is why Calm Dog training is so effective for Fearful, Excited and/or Aggressive dogs – because it address the root cause of the problem. The goal of Calm Dog Training is to disrupt the adrenaline release process and to reinforce the production of serotonin (the calming chemical). This is done through leash corrections and other methods aimed at quickly disturbing the “fight, flight and hyperact” response.

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The process of replacing high energy (adrenaline) responses with low energy (serotonin) responses is very simple.

First, “correct” or disagree with high energy responses. (This is demonstrated throughout this book and during training.)

Next, put the dog in a position where he can calm down and let a chemical hand-off happen, transitioning his brain from adrenaline to serotonin.

Finally, REWARD calm, relaxed, submissive behaviors with whatever the dog wanted in the first place – petting, getting in your lap (if allowed), going out, playing, getting a treat, etc.

The main difference between “Reward Only” based obedience training and Calm Dog™ training is that obedience training takes a dog that’s already in a high energy state of mind and only FOCUSES that energy on a treat or a command. In other words, typical obedience training just redirects high energy behavior from one target to another without dispersing it. It doesn’t really teach a dog how to CALM DOWN and go into a Low Energy State of Mind.

Calm Dog ™ training was specifically designed to create dogs that are Calm, “situationally aware”, and simply “know how to act” for the situation at hand without lots of verbal commands.

This key difference is why Calm Dog™ training is so effective with Hyper, Fearful and Aggressive dogs.

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STEPS TO A CALM DOG – ONE EXAMPLE Here are the steps to transition a dog from a high energy

state into a low energy state - for typical leash aggression only - different issues require different steps.

1. IMMEDIATELY AND CONTINUALLY CORRECT the dog if he goes into a hyper energy state. This stops him from feeding his mind more high energy stimulation. A dog typically stimulates high energy states by staring at something that it wants to fixate on (another dog, food, a person, etc.)

2. Correct the dog until he voluntarily TURNS AWAY. You can help this happen by backing away from the dog and doing leash corrections until the dog has to TURN AROUND and COME BACK TO YOU. Having the dog Circle or Turn away takes he eyes off the source of chemical stimulation. The excitement that causes most hyper dog issues comes in THROUGH THE EYES. Turn the dogs’ eyes away and you’ll effectively “turn off the spigot” for his adrenaline.

3. The instant the dog turns away start verbally and physically rewarding him. If he turns back toward the source of aggression then correct him again until he turns away again.

4. Repeat steps 1 - 3 if the dog tries to re-engage with the source of his excitement until he stops trying.

5. You will quickly notice that the dog will start to voluntarily avoid fixating on other dogs. He will also start voluntarily moving away from other dogs as they approach, instead of pulling and lunging toward them.

6. REWARD, REWARD, REWARD. Then repeat.

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This is only One Example for addressing Dog Aggression on a Leash – a common high energy problem.

OTHER HIGH ENERGY ISSUES INCLUDE:

Lease Walking Issues including: Aggression, Hyperactive Barking at Dogs and Strangers, Pulling, “Shutting Down” and Refusing to Walk, Fear Toward Specific Situations or Objects

Front Door Based Issues including: Uncontrolled Barking, Aggression and Lunging, Jumping on Guests, Hyper-Submissive Peeing, Running Out of the House

Home Based Issues including: Hyperactive Behavior in the Home, “Resource Guarding” including Sitting in People’s Laps and Snapping at Others who approach, Trembling and Hiding, Behavioral Peeing/Pooping inside, Throwing Tantrums, Situational Aggression and General Aggression, Biting, Heel Nipping, Demanding Behaviors, Obsessive Window Guarding, Excessive Barking, Hyper-Alertness

Anxiety and General Fear Issues including: Some Forms of Separation Anxiety, Fear “Addiction”, Trembling, Snapping/Nipping

Dominant and Demanding Issues including: Begging, Barking for Attention, Refusal to Stay In a Crate Quietly, Refusal to Listen, Stealing/Taking Objects, Possessiveness over Objects and/or Locations

These are just the Most Common high energy behaviors. A comprehensive list would include many sub-behaviors, combination behaviors and breed-specific issues.

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Creating a calm dog starts with LEADERSHIP. Without leadership nothing else matters.

You need to redefine the nature of your relationship with the dog. The dog can still serve all of your needs, whether they be petting and comfort or playing with your children or just being a nice addition to the home. But, you must change the nature of the relationship from one where the DOG decides what’s appropriate to one where YOU decided what’s appropriate.

Once you have redefined your relationship then it’s simply a matter of rewarding the dog when he is pleasing you and correcting him when he does something wrong. Everything else you just ignore. Don’t reward him unless he is doing something you want. Also, there’s no need to correct him until he does something that’s inappropriate. When you aren’t rewarding or correcting then just ignore the dog and let him be a dog.

Any dog can become a calm dog. Calm dogs play just as hard as hyper dogs, they just do it when they are allowed. Calm dogs love their owners even more than spoiled dogs do, because dogs crave leadership. When you become a strong leader your dog will become MORE drawn to you. Finally, calm dogs are FULFILLING THEIR MISSION IN LIFE – to be a companion for people.

Hyper, high energy dogs end up being banished, locked up and removed from access to people. The best thing you can do for any dog is teach him how to become CALM AND RELAXED so that he can spend more quality time with his family of humans.

Please read the rest of this guide to find specific ways to calm your dog down in typical high energy situations.

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PUPPY TO 3 YEARS Often people bring a dog home and then let the dog decide

how it should act. Please understand that dogs under the age of 3 years are Not Fully Mature. They are like children. If left to make their own decisions they will often make poor choices.

Your dog needs instruction. You need to tell it what to eat, what behaviors are acceptable, what behaviors aren’t, etc. If it is barking inappropriately then it needs to be corrected. If it isn’t acting the way that it should then you need to correct it.

You wouldn’t leave a 5 year old child in your home unsupervised or leave an infant to sleep in something other than a crib. So, please don’t let a 6 month old dog (equivalent to a 4 year old child) have free access to move around your house and sleep where he wants, chew what it wants, bark at what it wants, etc.

Everyone has heard that One Dog Year is like Seven Human Years. Believe it! A one year old dog is like a seven year old child. He knows how to do a lot of things on his own, but he still needs direction and correction. A two year old dog is like a 14 year old – HE IS IN THE MIDDLE OF PUBERTY and might react in inappropriate ways due to hormonal changes.

Most dog issues that cause clients to call for help happen at 18 months. This is when most dogs go through a hormonal change from childhood to “puberty”. This transition causes many dogs to switch from “puppies” to trouble making dogs. This transition can and should be managed with LEADERSHIP, EXERCISE and affection. But mostly Leadership.

CONTINUE TO OBSERVE AND INSTRUCT YOUR DOG UNTIL HE IS 3 YEARS OLD… at least.

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USE A LEASH The cheapest and most effective training tool available is a

simple leash. Leave a leash on your dog when he is in the house. Let him drag it behind him. Put your foot on it to keep him from running away. Use it to pull a dog from under the furniture (if he runs and hides). Use it for leash corrections if he is breaking the rules.

A leash is also used to guide your dog and teach him. Dogs MUST be taught where they can go, when they can go there, how they should act, etc. It’s YOUR job to teach them this. A leash is a great way to do that.

I recommend you keep a leash on a dog in the house until he acts they way you want him to act 95% of the time out of habit and repetition. If he does what you want with the leash, then he will probably do what you want without one. However, if he is refusing to act “right” without a leash, or is not listening, then put the leash back on and correct him until he understands what you want.

Some people are concerned that the dog can harm himself by dragging a leash. If this concerns you then don’t leave a dog unsupervised when he is wearing the leash. This shouldn’t be hard, because dogs that are being trained should be supervised 100% of the time when they are in the house and not in their crate.

The best training tool I can think of is a simple leash. The more you use it the happier everyone will be.

REMEMBER: A leash only needs to be as long as YOU need it to be. So, if you think the dog only needs to drag around a 2 foot leash, then buy a 2 foot leash – or cut a longer leash down. You may modify any of the information in this book to meet your specific needs.

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4 STEPS TO LEADERSHIP OF YOUR DOG All dogs require leadership. Very often the more disruptive

the behavior the more leadership is required. You must take FOUR actions on a regular basis in order to establish and maintain balanced leadership over your dog.

1. Correct the dog with TOUCH. This can be using a leash with the blue plastic Calm Dog collar. Or you can use your fingers, hand, foot, etc. as shown during training. (Use Touch, not just words.)

2. Regularly control the dog’s LOCATION and POSITION. “Go to Bed”, “Get down”, “Back up”, “Get out”, “STAY”, “Sit”. These are all ways to take leadership by controlling location and position.

3. Be Selfish. Putting your own ideas, thoughts and requirements above the dog’s will establish your leadership and help the dog serve the family well.

4. Be Stubborn. Once you tell the dog what to do you just need to stay stubborn until the dog gives up… relents… surrenders to your leadership and authority. Stubbornness is a Primary Trait of Leaders. Normally it won’t take nearly as long as you think if you’re Serious (not mad) and Stubborn (not frustrated).

Taking these four simple actions will allow the dog to surrender leadership to you and to TRUST that you will take care of things. This allows the dog to confidently take a follower position, because he will know that you DESERVE to be the leader. Leadership is earned through these four steps. You may stress one step more than the others depending on your dog. Some dogs respond well to firm corrections, other respond better to a stubborn leader. Adjust to what works best for your particular dog.

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LEADERSHIP Leadership is so central to helping your dog serve you well

that we will take a few moments to discuss it from various viewpoints. Leadership is both Earned and Taken… If you aren’t the leader of your dog then your dog is the leader of you.

What does it mean when the dog is the leader?

Very often it means he has the Right to bite, growl at and correct other pack members - including people. It’s THE LEADER’S JOB to be the master of everyone else.

It may mean he has the Responsibility to patrol and protect the home from outsiders (this creates barking, territorial issues, and even fear).

Leaders Own spaces, places, resources, toys, rooms, etc. This can create conflicts with people at specific locations like the sofa or bed.

Followers (that’s YOU if you’re not a leader) Are Not Allowed to leave the pack. When they leave the leader will go nuts. This is the cause for many “separation anxiety” symptoms.

The leader gets to Choose how to greet visitors and he Decides who is safe and who isn’t. This leads to barking, charging, jumping, etc on guests.

The can jump and be hyper if he wants because he doesn’t have to listen to anyone else – that means you.

Dogs make poor leaders of people, so help your dog and help yourself by being a strong leader for your dog.

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TAKE LEADERSHIP FOR YOUR DOG’S

OWN GOOD Dogs make horrible leaders of people. They get into

trouble. They “act out”. This gets them kicked out of homes and stuck in Dog Pounds. This endangers their life. Dogs who think they are the leader are full of mischief and trouble.

Help your dog by taking leadership. You can’t ask for it, you have to take it.

HOW TO TAKE LEADERSHIP Follow the FOUR STEPS to leadership. Start physically

controlling the dog. Use a crate, use a leash. Make him follow you around the house. Tell the dog to go to his bed or just move out of your way. This will get you leadership.

Disagree with the dog when he is acting inappropriately. Leaders tell others how to act. If you aren’t doing that then you aren’t the leader. If you’re letting him get away with inappropriate behavior then both you and the dog know that you don’t have the stubbornness to be the leader. Show him that you are willing to correct him appropriately and he will see you as the leader.

Start setting boundaries. Leaders make rules and set boundaries. The rules and boundaries don’t even have to make sense. “Sit here, not there.” “Don’t cross this invisible line.” “Stay outside” with the door open. Etc.

Be aloof! Leaders aren’t constantly looking at, worrying about and being concerned with followers. It’s the followers’ job to keep up with and watch out for the leader. Stop going around your dog and have your dog move out of your way. If he is under foot, safely (but convincingly) move through him. Move him out of your way, make him watch out for your feet. This will help you gain leadership.

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Require the dog to do things FOR YOU (on a daily basis) in order to get what he wants (such as attention, food, going outside, coming inside, etc.) Leaders constantly assert their leadership and remind the pack that they are in charge. This is done in small ways throughout the day. Make him sit and wait, do a trick, give you space, etc. throughout the day.

Claim your S P A C E . . . Space equals respect. A dog who invades your space is not respecting your leadership. Your dog can sit on your lap if you INVITE him to do so, but he can’t invade your space on his own whim.

Claim your HOUSE. Every door is your door, every piece of furniture is yours. Every item is yours. If you own the remote control then the dog will leave it alone. If you own the door then the dog will back up when you want to open it.

Claim your PEOPLE. Your children are your property – the dog can’t just do what he wants with them. Guests in your home are YOURS, not the dogs.

Claim your WALK. When you go on a walk this is YOUR WALK. You are patrolling your territory. The dog is a guest that you are allowing to accompany you. You control the pace, how he reacts to other dogs and people, where he pees and sniffs, etc. You go first, you don’t wait on him. He must pay attention to you, not the other way around. He will enjoy the walk Even More!

The most stubborn and insistent dog wins. Be more stubborn about what you want than the dog is about what he wants. This will make your dog HAPPIER, SAFER, HEALTHIER, and MORE BALANCED FOR HIS WHOLE LIFE.

REMEMBER… Leaders don’t have to listen to followers – just like a parent doesn’t have to listen to a child who says… “Mom, quit your job and let’s move.” So, if your dog isn’t listening then you’re probably not the leader yet. Keep working… Be ASSERTIVE. You’ll get it!

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Leaders are:

CALM (not angry or frustrated), ASSERTIVE (not mad or punishing), ALOOF, IN CHARGE, HAVE A PLAN OF ACTION, and EXPECT THINGS TO HAPPEN IN THE WAY THAT THEY WANT.

Leaders are not:

Worried, Frightened, Unsure, or Hesitant. They don’t suffer fools and insubordination. They correct, teach and provide discipline fairly but firmly and without hesitation.

Leaders create:

Balance, Harmony, and Cooperation.

Leaders don’t only correct, they also reward, teach and interact with the pack. Play is Great, but have leadership first. Affection is Wonderful, but have the dog show a little respect or patience in order to get it. Leaders love their dogs as much as anyone else. And dogs really love their leaders!

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LEADERSHIP MEANS LEADING Leadership isn’t just about disagreeing with or correcting a

dog. Leadership is also about TEACHING, HELPING, EDUCATING, WORKING WITH, and COOPERATING with your dog.

You must show the dog you are Fair, Consistent, Balanced and Looking Out For His Own Good. If you find that all you’re doing is correcting your dog and never encouraging him or helping him then you need to re-examine your leadership style.

Our goal is to have a dog that is Calm, Balanced and Happy. To do this we provide appropriate Rules, Boundaries and Limitations. We also provide Rewards, Education, Encouragement and Direction.

At first you may need to be direct and firm with your dog (with leash corrections, for instance), but as he learns you should become softer and more cooperative. You should give him every chance to comply without doing a correction.

You should observe your dog and see if he prefers to do something slightly differently (like walk in a slightly different position than right beside you). It’s OK to adjust your rules to help the dog stay in compliance. In other words… BE FLEXIBLE.

A good leader wants the dog to feel like he is making the CHOICE and that he has some CONTROL over his decisions. This helps the dog not feel frustrated. If he breaks the rules you should and must correct him, but be flexible otherwise. Reward good behavior often and generously.

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3 WAYS TO RESPOND TO BEHAVIORS Remember that there are THREE ways to respond to any

behavior your dog does.

1. You can REWARD IT. Petting is rewarding, touching in a soothing manner is rewarding, talking calmly or comforting is rewarding. If you reward a behavior then you’re saying, “I want you to do this more!” DON’T REWARD BAD BEHAVIOR.

2. You can IGNORE IT. Simply turn away. Take your hands away. Look away. This works in many instances and the dog will change his behavior to try to find out what you want. When he changes it to something more appropriate then you can reward it.

3. You can DISAGREE and CORRECT IT. “NO!”, “SSSHHHHTT!”, a leash correction, blocking, disagreeing, touch on the neck, hip or shoulder. These are all methods of disagreeing. Make sure you disagree in a way that is appropriate and that the dog understands.

If you reward bad or pushy behavior you will get more of it. If you reward fearful behavior you will get more of it. If you reward aggressive behavior you will get more of it. If you don’t disagree with unwanted behavior then there is no way for the dog to know that you want him to stop. Remember, words are weak; use Energy, Actions and Touch to disagree.

“Mark” good behaviors with your voice “Good Boy” or “YESSS!” and reward good, calm, balanced, submissive behavior immediately and generously.

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HOW TO DISAGREE WITH YOUR DOG E.A.T. – Energy, Action, Touch.

This is how you disagree with your dog. First you use Energy, then you take Action, and finally you use Touch.

Words are Weak. Frustration doesn’t work. Begging is Useless. Dogs Don’t Negotiate. They either do what THEY want to do or they do what YOU want them to do. There is no middle ground.

First, IF YOU DON’T DISAGREE with your dog’s bad behavior there is No Way for him to know you don’t like it. If he’s barking or growing or jumping or climbing on furniture and you don’t disagree with him then why would he ever stop?

ENERGY – Dogs read your energy. They read your intent. Words don’t even register if your energy is weak or frustrated. Your energy must be serious and your intent must be clear. If they are, then a simple “NO!” may be the only disagreement your dog needs.

You can project your energy across the room with a firm stare and a directed pointing (or snapping) of the fingers. “Hey…. NO!” Hold your stare, be serious, don’t look away first. Make him bend to your will. This is Leadership Energy.

ACTION – When energy isn’t enough then you need to take action. The first action is to move FORWARD directly toward the dog, get between him and the object of his attention (whether it’s the window or a person or the cat). Make him back up, look away, show some submission to the fact that he is being corrected.

The important thing is to take action and directly confront the dog’s behavior. Talking doesn’t help. He’s reading your ENERGY FIRST and then your ACTIONS. Move forward, claim space, claim leadership with your body. This is Leadership Action.

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TOUCH – Some behaviors require touch. Touch is a leash correction, or a touch on the neck, an e-collar correction (if you’re using an e-collar), etc. Touch is never hitting or yanking or punishing. Touch is a very specific CORRECTION that is meant to teach the dog to change his behavior and choose a different behavior.

Remember that the goal of any correction is to get the dog to CHOOSE a different behavior. We’re not trying to physically remove the dog from a situation or behavior as much as we are trying to get the dog to CHANGE HIS MIND and choose a new path.

Touch is how dogs communicate when Energy and Action (also known as body language) aren’t working. Dogs bump, they move the other dog out of the way, they mouth and even bite. Your goal is to use a very mild, but insistent form of touch such as a leash correction or bump with your knee. Claim space with your body, disagree with a leash correction. This is Leadership Touch.

THEN REWARD, REWARD, REWARD.

The instant the dog changes his mind and his behavior REWARD HIM. Mark the occasion, let him know how great he did, have a party! Then feel free to Repeat and make him do it again, only this time better, longer or quicker.

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HOW TO DO A PROPER LEASH

CORRECTION Leash corrections take PRACTICE. When I trained your

dog I showed you how to do a leash correction. Below is a list of reminders and hints. However, leash corrections are like riding a bike, once you do it CORRECTLY and you Feel the change in the dog’s behavior and attention, then you’ve GOT IT!

RULES FOR LEASH CORRECTIONS:

The best tool to use for leash corrections (for most dogs) is a Blue Plastic “Calm Dog” Collar. This is the most common tool we use for leash corrections because it is safe, effective and easy to do correctly.

YOU MUST USE A SAFE METHOD – This can be a reversed leash, it can be a choke chain, etc. depending on the dog. Most dogs respond very well to the Blue Plastic “Calm Dog Collar” that most of my clients get from me.

Don’t do leash corrections with a flat (normal) collar. It can harm the dog’s throat. A Blue Plastic “Calm Dog Collar” is much safer than a flat (normal) collar at the bottom of a dog’s neck. So, use the right tool. (Some dogs require either a stronger or a softer tool. Other options include a metal “prong” collar – which is stronger – or a soft fabric collar with a chain hoop on the back for gentle correction – which is softer.

CORRECT WITH A QUICK TUG AND RELEASE; UP OR TO THE SIDE IS BEST – Don’t pull straight back (YOU’RE NOT PULLING THE DOG). The goal is to get the dog to change his own direction or disagree with his decision, not to “pull him back” or yank him out of a situation forcefully.

A SLACK, LOOSE LEASH GIVES A PROPER LEASH CORRECTION – A leash correction takes a certain

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amount of kinetic energy. This energy comes from all the slack in the leash. So when you start your quick tug on the leash at first your dog feels nothing. THEN, when the slack is removed he feels a SHARP TUG.

The sharpness of the tug comes IN DIRECT RELATION to the looseness of the leash before you started. So, first move your hand TOWARD THE DOG to get more slack. THEN pull your hand away to create the leash correction, then toward him again.

LOOSE, TIGHT, LOOSE – All this happens in a split second. It’s like a reverse POKE. Think of poking someone firmly with your finger (only in reverse). Think of a snap of the wrist or the recoil of a tennis racket. Another image is like setting a fish hook – a quick tug and release. The leash should only be tight for a split second (like a poke in reverse). And then it’s loose again.

TRY 2-3 IN RAPID SUCCESSION – Since the leash must go loose/tight/loose, what happens when one correction isn’t enough? Rapid-fire it! Loose/tight/loose/tight/loose. That’s TWO leash corrections in rapid motion. You can do 2, 3 or 4 (depending on the intensity of the situation – such as dog aggression). Poke, Poke, Poke, Poke… until the dog CHANGES HIS MIND.

If you are pulling your dog around with leash corrections then you’re doing them wrong. You aren’t letting the leash go loose after the correction.

If your dog isn’t looking at you or changing his behavior then your leash correction is either wrong or TOO WEAK. Do a stronger, sharper correction and project your INTENT. Try rapid-fire. The dog will listen. Remember it’s not yanking and pulling…, it’s a SNAP.

Leash Corrections require the Proper TOOL, TIMING and TECHNIQUE. Loose/tight/loose is the technique. “Immediately” when the dog breaks the rule is the timing. The collar should get the dog’s respect and attention. If the tool is too weak and the dog ignores it, get a stronger tool.

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USING A BLUE “CALM DOG” COLLAR This is a StarMark Triple Crown Dog

Collar. I call it a Blue Plastic “Calm Dog Collar” with my clients, because I want to stress that this tool is used to CALM a dog by accessing PRESSURE POINTS on the neck and activating INSTINCTS that the dog already possesses.

Every connection between the links on this collar can be disconnected. Following are instructions on how to open and close this collar. The key is to TOUCH TWO POINTS TOGETHER.

- To remove the collar, use your thumb and forefinger to unsnap each hook from their bars with a FIRM ROCKING MOTION while BENDING the collar so that the points of two segments touch each other. (see illustration)

- To connect the collar segments, use your thumb and forefinger to snap the links together by pressing each hook to the bar of the other link ONE AT A TIME. Again, put the points of two segments near each other by “bending” the collar to line up the channel in the hook with the pins of the other link. Press firmly, rocking it slightly until you feel it click into place.

- Fitting the collar to the dog, the collar should be loose on the dog’s neck, but not so loose that when you pull the leash the collar doesn’t close completely. (As shown during training.)

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TAKING OWNERSHIP When you take “ownership” of spaces and items in your

home your dog will leave them alone. You can take ownership of spaces – like the kitchen or space by the front door. You can take ownership of objects – like the trash can or the remote control. You can take ownership of furniture, children and guests.

In-home training usually includes ownership exercises. To take ownership of something you simply need to get between your dog and that object (or person) and use your energy to herd or BACK the dog AWAY from it. You’re claiming the space, claiming the person and making the dog move back. Then stand there for a second and look at the dog with confident energy. Your energy is saying, “This is mine. Respect it.”

If the dog moves too close to the object then take action; move to cut him off and make him back up. Repeat with a strong body image and energy that you are taking ownership.

Taking ownership doesn’t mean the dog can Never go there or play with that person, etc. It just means that he needs permission and he needs to do it in a respectful way.

Ownership isn’t magical. If you leave a dog unsupervised for extended periods of time he MIGHT get on the furniture or possibly chew the remote or explore the trash. It’s important that dogs be supervised or contained until they prove that they are trustworthy and reliable.

THE KEY to taking ownership is having the dog move AWAY from the area, object or person. He must back up and respect the bubble of energy you are placing around things. If he crosses the invisible line then take action and make him back up again. Use strong energy. After a few repetitions he will get it.

The key is to make him BACK UP as you move into him.

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WHEN MISTAKES HAPPEN

When the dog violates one of your protected objects, people or spaces then it must be addressed. You must disagree with the dog.

If you see it happening then get up, take action. Project your energy, get between the dog and the protected thing and make him back up. Violations are not allowed.

If you only see the result (such as trash on the floor or a chewed up pair of glasses), then use the object (such as the trash or glasses) to confront the dog. Pick it up and bring it to the dog with a forceful, strong energy. If the dog moves away have the object keep moving toward him. Put it to his nose and say “NO!” make him respect the object. Use firm corrections until the dog shows the object (and you) respect.

Then put the object on the floor and make him give it respect and space. Again, we’re teaching him to respect and stay away from the object. It’s HIS CHOICE that he has to make. We are not trying to hide the object from him.

In the end all these things and spaces belong to YOU, not the dog.

WHEN POTTY MISTAKES HAPPEN

Do the same as above but bring your dog to the potty spot, tell him “NO!” and do a few leash or touch corrections. CLAIMING your space is how to get dogs that are old enough and have control, from making the CHOICE of going in the house. The house is YOUR TERRITORY and you can claim it. This does not confuse the dog – even if you didn’t see him do it. The dog knows his own scent. (Don’t “rub his nose” in it, just correct him.)

After you correct him then clean the spot and spray neutralizer on it to remove any scent.

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BLOCKING AND PROJECTING ENERGY Taking ownership of spaces and objects requires that you

use BLOCKING maneuvers and Project Your Energy in an assertive way.

Remember that energy comes from the center of your chest, not from your finger or from your voice. Waving your hands or wagging your finger one inch in front of the dog’s nose won’t get you what you want. Neither will yelling and being frustrated.

1. Stand up tall and proud.

2. Push your chest out and look DOWN at the dog.

3. Move FORWARD toward the dog (if even just a few inches).

4. OWN your space and block his line of sight with your body.

5. Feel as if you are projecting your energy at the dog when you snap or point or say “NO”, “Hey” or “Shhhhttt!”

Bending over and getting your face next to the dog or wagging your finger in his face DOESN’T WORK as well.

You Must be insistent, persistent and stubborn. If you stand tall, move to block his movement or eye line, and project your energy; the dog will get it and you’ll see his energy state change.

When he does what you want then say “Yes!” or “Good” or simply turn around and trust him to do what you want him to do. If he makes a mistake again then simply correct him again.

When blocking think of a cattle horse. When the cow tries to go around him, the horse moves sideway and cuts the cow off. The horse’s gaze is constantly focused directly on the cow. Once

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the cow realizes he can’t run away then he submits and moves back into the herd. This same thing happens with your dog. Once he REALIZES that he can’t win he will surrender and do what you want WILLINGLY.

Blocking is one of the most powerful and leadership oriented exercise you can do with your dog. It involves no touch. It’s pure leadership. Do it often.

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EXERCISE ALL DOGS NEED DAILY EXERCISE.

ALL DOGS NEED DAILY EXERCISE.

ALL DOGS NEED DAILY EXERCISE.

First of all, exercise builds leadership. Second, exercise engages the dog’s BRAIN in a way that is very rewarding. Third, exercise drains the dog’s energy so he stops trying to find his own methods to drain energy – such as barking, chewing, digging, or being hyper.

The foundation of good dog ownership is Exercise and Leadership, THEN affection. When all a dog gets is affection, affection, affection then it’s like trying to live a healthy life by eating only cotton candy.

You got your dog so you could enjoy him and to do things with him. Make exercise something that you enjoy doing together every day – maybe multiple times during the day. Exercise simply means DIRECTED ACTIVITY – such as a walk, a bike ride, a game of fetch, etc.

Many people mistakenly believe that their yard or other dogs in the house can replace exercise. They can’t. Those are “activities”, but they aren’t “Exercise”. Exercise has a leader (YOU) and the exercise is DIRECTED by the leader. This creates both a physical and a mental exercise, plus it creates leadership.

A child jumping on the bed is not exercise. A child on a basketball team is exercise. The difference is one involves direction and leadership. The other is just blowing off steam. Your dog is the same.

ALL DOGS NEED DAILY EXERCISE.

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THE WALK Walking is a Primal Exercise for dogs. It’s hard-wired into

their DNA. “Wild” dogs (if there is such a thing) walk: To Hunt, To Migrate, and to Patrol Their Territory. Walking is the most basic exercise any dog can do. Every dog needs daily walks to be happy, calm and balanced.

HOW TO WALK A DOG:

First, the walk is YOUR WALK and the dog is Allowed to Accompany you. This sets the stage for leadership. YOU are the one who is directing his behavior from the first instant the leash comes out of the drawer.

The dog must be calm and attentive to you BEFORE you put the leash on. If he isn’t then correct him or ignore him until he comes to you and sits down in front of you to get the leash attached – CALMLY.

STOP AND REPEAT AS OFTEN AS IT TAKES TO GET HIM TO SIT DOWN CALMLY IN FRONT OF YOU.

Once the leash is attached the dog must remain attentive and under control. If he gets hyper or can’t contain his excitement then correct him. If he doesn’t stop then take the leash off and start from the beginning. AGAIN, BE WILLING TO REPEAT.

Every phase of walking a dog is about LEADERSHIP more than exercise. Exercise without leadership is nothing more than “activity”, which won’t create a calm, submissive, happy dog.

Once you get the leash attached and the dog stays calm (or at least under control) sitting or standing patiently, then you can move toward the door. If the dog tries to LEAD YOU to the door then correct him. Make him go back to the spot where he made the mistake and sit and wait until he is ready to follow you. Then try again.

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It may take 5 or even 10 tries before he calms down. That’s OK. Next time it won’t take as long. He’ll learn.

You go out the door first while he waits inside the door. Then you INVITE HIM TO JOIN YOU. This is the first step to taking control outside.

He then must sit and wait while you close the door. If he pulls or doesn’t wait then go BACK IN THE HOUSE and return to the last step that he did correctly.

SECRET: When you are willing to GO BACK A STEP and show the dog that he cannot get what he wants (which is to move forward) without first doing what YOU want, the dog will start to get it. And you will become a more powerful leader. Always be willing to stop and go back at any point on the walk – until the dog is calm and attentive to you. Don’t be in a hurry.

On the walk you are in control. The dog must pay attention to YOUR pace and YOUR direction. Use leash corrections. Use the “To Leash Walking Method”. Go slower, change directions, whatever it takes to make the dog pay attention to you. This is how the dog truly gets Exercise (lead by you).

Don’t get frustrated or try to rush the process. Stay calm and relaxed. There is no “goal” for the walk. It doesn’t matter if you go 15 feet or 5 miles at first. The goal is leadership first, distance later.

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THE TWO LEASH WALKING METHOD I’m a big believer is using TWO LEASHES to walk a dog

who likes to pull or run ahead. You use one leash to hold in your hand - WITH ZERO TENSION AND TONS OF SLACK. The second leash you allow to drag on the ground behind the dog as he walks. The leash that’s on the ground is the one you will use to correct the dog when he goes too far ahead.

When the dog’s rear end goes past your leg (because the dog wants to go head of you) then simply STEP ON THE DRAGGING LEASH with a normal stepping action. DON’T STOP, just continue walking past the dog.

The steps to this are:

1. Loose, Loose, Loose leash in your hand with lots of slack.

2. When the dog passes you just step on the dragging leash with a normal walking step then immediately walk past the dog.

3. Keep walking. The dog will catch up.

Some dogs may vocalize (yelp) the first couple of times they experience this. It’s because the correction is surprising. He’ll stop vocalizing and walk properly in no time.

If the dog goes too far to the RIGHT, LEFT or TOO SLOW then use the leash in your hand to do a quick tugging leash correction.

REMEMBER YOU ARE WALKING IN A “BUBBLE”. WHEN THE DOG MOVES OUTIDE “THE BUBBLE” CORRECT HIM UNTIL HE GETS BACK INTO THE PROPER POSITION.

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EXERCISE WITH A BIKE Some dogs need intense exercise. They need to run. High

energy dogs need to run. Sporting dogs need to run. If your dog isn’t getting enough exercise by walking then consider using a bike and running the excess energy out of him.

SECRETS TO BIKE TRAINING A DOG:

1. Start by walking with the dog on one side and the bike on the other.

2. Next walk with the dog and the bike on the same side. (you, then bike, then dog)

3. Now get on the bike and walk the dog while straddling the bike.

4. Finally start peddling and let the dog trot alongside.

SAFETY WITH A DOG AND A BIKE:

1. Always wear a helmet (you can and very well might wreck once or twice).

2. The dog must be able to move forward through distractions and not pull you off the bike just because he sees another dog or a squirrel, etc.

3. You can steer lightly with the hand that’s holding the leash, BUT NEVER FIRMLY GRASP BOTH THE HANDLEBARS AND THE LEASH WITH THE SAME HAND. If the dog decides to stop suddenly or pull to the side then he will yank your handlebars to the side and you will wreck. INSTEAD of grasping the handlebars firmly (with the same hand as the leash) try simply resting your fingertips or palm on it. That way if the dog pulls hard then your hand will let go of the handlebars and you won’t wreck.

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4. Be willing to let go of the leash in an emergency. If the dog goes around one side of a pole and you go around the other then you have an Emergency. LET GO OF THE LEASH. You can always stop, call the dog over to you and regain control.

5. If the dog gets too close to the peddles or the front wheel then Correct Him. Say NO! and make him move away. Space is respect.

6. The dog WILL get used to the bike. Just keep going and ignore any little temper tantrums at first. Before long he will Love the bike.

DEALING WITH OTHER DOGS WHILE ON THE BIKE

If another dog that is off leash starts coming toward you while you are on your bike, first see if you can clear the area before the dog is a problem. Most dogs only care about the space in front of their house. If you can get out of that area before the dog gets to you then do it. If you can’t then get off the bike and position the bike between you and the loose dog. Keep your dog on the same side of the bike as you. If the dog is friendly, let the dogs meet and then move on. If the dog is aggressive, use the bike for protection and move back in the direction you came from.

Some dogs respond to a stern “NO!” Others don’t take kindly to being challenged. Each encounter must be handled as needed. Yell out for someone to come get the dog if he doesn’t calm down. If no one comes and the dog won’t let you go away then use your cell phone to call 911.

Most dog encounters are fairly mild and easy to either ride through or diffuse with a little patience.

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DIRECTED EXERCISE (LIKE FETCH) The difference between “activity” and “exercise” is that

exercise is DIRECTED BY A LEADER. So, fetch is a great exercise IF you are directing it.

To use fetch as an exercise you must direct the dog’s behavior during the game of fetch. He must do what you tell him to do, make it mentally stimulating as well as physically exhausting.

1. Make the dog sit pretty and wait before the ball is thrown. Vary how much time he must wait.

2. Have the dog release (or drop) the ball. Don’t pull it from his mouth. (Using a “Chuckit” ball thrower will save on bending over and keep you from handling a slobbery tennis ball.) He must willingly release it. Over time get more demanding about WHERE he releases it. Point to a specific spot on the ground and make him put it there. This is both a mental and a leadership exercise.

3. Have the dog perform tricks or other behaviors before you throw the ball. (sit, shake, jump through a hoop, down, etc.)

4. If the dog decides that the game is over and doesn’t return the ball to you, then you need to correct him, take him to the ball and try to get him to pick it up and bring it to you. REMEMBER this is YOUR ball and you are controlling this game. He must bring YOUR BALL back to YOU.

5. To end the game take the ball and put it away. It’s your ball and your game.

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CONTROLLING ENERGY LEVELS Owners literally teach their dogs what energy levels the dog

should have. You can teach your dog to be hyper in general or you can teach your dog to be calm and relaxed in general. Here’s how.

1. Dogs will continually do whatever got them rewarded in the past (with petting or play or food). So, if you pet your dog or play with him when he approaches you in a hyper manner, then you are teaching him to be hyper in the future.

2. If your dog is bringing toys to you and you’re playing with him (because HE wants to play) they you’re teaching him to be in control.

3. If your dog is barking at you demandingly and you are responding then you’re teaching him to be demanding.

DON’T DO THOSE THINGS… INSTEAD…

1. Put your dog on a leash so he is near you. Wait for him to lie down and put his head down, THEN say “Good Boy” and pet him or play with him. He can get excited, but if he gets hyper stop playing or touching and wait for him to lie down again. When he lies down again then REWARD him again with touch and play.

2. YOU control the toys. When your dog is calm and relaxed (lying down is good) say “Good Boy” and throw the toy. YOU start the game. You play for a while and then YOU take the toy and end the game.

3. You correct barking and demanding behavior with touch (leash corrections) then make the dog give you space (“go to your bed” or “back up”) then when the dog lies down and calms down you can give him what he wanted.

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By waiting for a dog to be calm and relaxed BEFORE rewarding him with petting, play, etc., you’re teaching the dog to be relaxed and calm more often.

The dog is constantly trying to solve a simple puzzle… “What will get me rewarded?” If the answer to that puzzle is “Bark” then he’ll bark more. If it is “Jump Around” then he’ll jump around more. But if the answer is “Lie down and relax”, then he’ll do that more.

Your dog can go from an apparent dead sleep to playing and romping in an instant. That’s great! You’re waiting for him to be relaxed before you start a game. This teaches him to relax when he wants to play and wait for you to play with him – instead of being hyper and demanding..

This is how you control your dog’s energy states. YOU ONLY REWARD HIM WHEN HE IS ALREADY IN THE ENERGY STATE THAT YOU WANT. In this case, that energy state you want is CALM AND RELAXED.

Most people play with their dog when he’s hyper and ignore him when he’s calm. That’s why most people have hyper, demanding, push dogs. YOU KNOW HOW TO CHANGE THAT EQUATION. You can correct hyper behavior and reward calm, relaxed behavior. This is the best thing you can do for yourself, your guests and your dog.

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CONGRATULATIONS! You now have a calmer dog that is less likely to go into

these high energy – aggressive, fearful and hyperactive – states. And when he does try to go into those states you know exactly how to get him to “calm down”.

The process of getting a dog to go from a high energy, focused, demanding, pushy state of mind is the same whether you want him to stop begging at the table or stop biting the cat. The only difference is the timing required and the dogs’ DRIVE to do the behavior.

Some dogs have a particularly strong drive to do a certain behavior either out of pure instinct or because of learned responses. If you are quick and clear with your communication, and you make the level and duration of correction appropriate for the situation, then you will be very successful. Luckily most dogs give up most disruptive behaviors relatively quickly when we clearly correct them and then clearly reward them for choosing a different, better behavior.

THE BEST “COMMAND” YOU CAN EVER TEACH A DOG IS “STAY”. So, remember to have your dog “stay”. You put him in a stay then turn your back and walk away. If he leaves, correct him and repeat. Dogs that are taught to stay in their bed quickly learn how to transition from an adrenaline state to a serotonin state.

Thank you again for trust Calm Dog™ with your dog’s issues.

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“KEYS TO” SECTION The following section has pointers and tips for common behavioral problems we address in training.

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KEYS TO: WALKING ON A LEASH 1. It’s YOUR WALK, not the dogs.

2. Start controlling the walk from the moment you get the leash out.

3. Don’t go to the next step if the dog isn’t attentive and under control.

4. Know how to do a leash correction.

5. Try the “Two Leash Walking Method” of leash corrections. (Where you step on the leash instead of holding it.) Many dogs respond a lot better to it than any other method.

6. For the first part of the walk at least, don’t let him do a lot of sniffing and marking. The goal is to move forward.

7. LOOK FORWARD and move forward with intent. Don’t wait on the dog.

8. One firm/correct leash correction is better than 20 bad, weak, flaccid, incorrect leash jerks.

9. Remember a leash correction is LOOSE/TIGHT/LOOSE and you use the slack in the leash to make the snap happen.

10. Use multiple rapid-fire leash corrections until the dog changes his mind.

11. If you feel out of control, STOP, get in front of the dog and cut him off, make him sit, do whatever it takes to get IN CONTROL! Then continue.

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KEYS TO: STOPPING DOG AGGRESSION 1. Disagree with and correct the dog EARLIER in the

aggression process. Don’t wait for the dog to attack, correct the act of LOOKING or ALERTING.

2. Practice multiple rapid-fire leash corrections. NO, NO, NO (each one is a leash correction). This works much better than trying to do one “BIG” leash correction.

3. MOVE YOUR FEET as the dog moves to keep the right distance and angle to do corrections. Backing up and making the dog turn and come to you is best.

4. Remember that you’re changing the dog’s MIND, not trying to pull his body away.

5. Don’t get tense or nervous or make the leash tight just because you’re getting close to a situation. Simply be prepared mentally, physically and from a leadership aspect to make the appropriate corrections.

6. When passing a dog keep moving forward. Don’t Stop unless the dog is under control.

7. GO BACK AND TRY AGAIN. If there’s a trouble spot, turn around and do it again and again until both you and the dog get it right.

8. IF YOU ARE WORRIED THAT YOUR DOG MAY HURT SOMEONE OR ANOTHER DOG THEN PUT A MUZZLE ON HIM. This will provide safety and give you confidence to do the exercise.

9. Reward the dog for doing it right. This includes looking away from the target, moving away, sitting, showing calmness and submission. All of these behaviors should be rewarded.

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KEYS TO: STOPPING HYPERACTIVE

BEHAVIOR 1. Stop rewarding hyper/demanding behavior with

petting, holding, talking to, playing with, etc.

2. Instead, disagree with the behavior and demand a different behavior (calm down and sit down).

3. Put a leash on the dog in the house.

4. Step on the leash and teach the dog to relax at your feet and stop running around.

5. Exercise the dog longer, more often or more vigorously THEN expect him to calm down at home.

6. Take leadership over the furniture, people, doorbells and door, etc.

7. Take control of toys so the dog needs to do what you want before he earns the right to play with a toy.

8. Take ownership of your children – if he is being hyper towards them.

9. Teach him to be calm/submissive in a crate or on a dog bed before he earns the right to be on leash with you in the house or on/near the sofa.

10. Use a leash, use a leash, use a leash until the dogs shows you that he doesn’t need it anymore.

11. Give the dog something to chew when he is relaxing.

12. Reward the dog for being calm.

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KEYS TO: FIXING “SMALL DOG

SYNDROME” Small Dog Syndrome is generally nothing more than

Fear/Hyper/Dominance Based Aggression and Hyperactivity. This is when a small dog barks, growls and attacks other dogs and people out of fear or in order to control them.

1. DON’T ALLOW IT. It’s not cute. It’s dangerous to him and others.

2. Disagree with it. Use touch or leash corrections. Disagree with any barking or growling until he STOPS doing it (and looks at you instead of them).

3. Put a leash on him so he can’t charge forward or run away.

4. Don’t pick him up. Keep him on the ground in front of you. Don’t let him hide behind you. Make him deal with his fear.

5. Fear is something he will get over if you make him realize that the thing he’s afraid of won’t kill him.

6. Don’t comfort a dog that is in a fearful or aggressive state. Disagree with it and make them stay in the situation until they overcome their fear.

7. He is NOT ALLOWED to bark and growl. Disagree with it 100% of the time until he stops.

8. If the dog is guarding you as a resource (from your lap) then make him get down and move away from people who are sitting next you. Don’t let him show aggression toward them. Correct it. Disagree with it.

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KEYS TO: FIXING “CRAZY DOG

SYNDROME” Crazy dog syndrome is typically a dog that is hyper and out

of control. He is also probably dominant and doesn’t listen to commands.

1. Put a leash on him and stop letting him choose his behavior, actions and motion.

2. Disagree with inappropriate behavior and ignore his attempts to get you to engage.

3. Take leadership by setting boundaries and rules.

4. Exercise the dog often and vigorously then expect him to act appropriately when you’re home.

5. Take ownership and control of all toys. Make him do what YOU want before getting access to anything that he wants. (Except chew type toys that all dogs need.)

6. Teach him to use a crate. This shows him that you can physically control all his movements. He must be calm/submissive in a crate before he allowed out in the house ON A LEASH. Take control.

7. Expect him to ACT RIGHT. Your expectations are very important.

8. Don’t reward bad behavior.

9. Use the right tool (i.e. collar). “Crazy” dogs often need a stronger tool and a stronger touch.

10. Reward the dog for being calm and attentive.

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KEYS TO: STOPPING JUMPING ON

PEOPLE 1. Take ownership of the door.

2. Take ownership of the furniture.

3. Demand space – space equals respect.

4. Take ownership of visitors and children.

5. Practice blocking techniques.

6. Put a leash on the dog and disagree with his jumping.

7. Give him an alternate behavior to do in order to get what he wants – like sit and wait before he gets to go get petted.

8. NEVER let him jump on people. It’s forbidden and unnecessary.

Jumping on people and furniture is a sign of total disrespect. It’s rude. Treat it seriously and it will stop.

When the dog shows respect to people and things then reward him.

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KEYS TO: CONTROLLING THE DOOR Remember that space equals respect. That means respect

for you and respect for those who are using the door.

1. Have the dog wear a leash so you can take control of him when the doorbell rings.

2. Disagree with any inappropriate behaviors, like barking, with leash corrections.

3. Practice Blocking and Backing him away from the door. It’s YOUR door.

4. You greet the guest first – it’s YOUR guest not his. Plus as the leader you get to define how guests will be greeted.

5. Take LEADERSHIP. Many door issues are because the dog thinks it is his job to protect the house and greet guests.

6. Demand space and calm submission. He can’t be AT the door acting hyper, excited, nervous, aggressive, etc.

7. When the dog does a good job, reward him.

Dogs love barking at the door and noises. You have to be assertive, persistent, and stubborn. You must make him stop. He is NOT ALLOWED to act this way. Make him stop 100% before opening the door. Reward him when he does it right.

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KEYS TO: STOPPING DEMANDING

BEHAVIORS Pushy and demanding behaviors are signs of a dog that

thinks he’s the leader. He believes he has the right to be pushy and demanding. And he DOES have the right as long as you let him do it.

1. Take leadership and keep it.

2. Disagree with the behavior with physical touch – leash corrections and physical touches.

3. Don’t let him push his way into situations, correct him until he moves away.

4. Make him sit and wait for what he wants.

5. Stop rewarding his pushy behavior with petting, talking, rewards, etc.

6. Stand up, move forward toward him and correct him. Expect space and respect.

7. Take ownership of your space. Make him back up and give you space and respect.

8. Keep him totally off the furniture until he learns to be very calm and respectful and ASK to come up. Even then be very selective of when/if you ever let him come up.

9. When you see his attitude change, immediately reward and praise him.

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KEYS TO: STOPPING CHEWING Puppies must chew to teethe. Dogs chew to relieve stress

and boredom. Dogs chew out of boredom and they also chew just to entertain themselves. The solution to destructive chewing depends on the cause of the behavior. Some chewing is caused by a medical issue that can only be corrected by your vet.

Having said that, here are some pointers for stopping unwanted chewing.

1. Teach the dog what he can chew by correcting him for inappropriate chewing.

2. Don’t give a dog that chews free access to your home. Keep him on a leash or in a kennel.

3. Understand that most dogs need to chew for many reasons – physical and mental. So the solution isn’t to get him to stop chewing. The solution is to get him to only chew appropriate items.

4. Take leadership and take OWNERSHIP over everything in the house.

5. EXERCISE is required. Fixing OBSESSIONS is required. Correcting NEUROTIC BEHAVIOR is required. If you don’t fix the underlying cause then the chewing won’t stop.

6. Never give up. Keep trying.

7. REMEMBER MOST DOGS MUST CHEW – It relieves boredom, provides stimulation and helps them relax. So, provide appropriate chew toys and treats.

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KEYS TO: SEPARATION ANXIETY Separation Anxiety is often caused by dominance.

Dominant (Leader) dogs don’t want FOLLOWERS, that means You, leaving the pack. You are breaking the rules and he’s going to throw a fit to get you to stop doing that. The answer to dominant separation anxiety is gaining leadership, and being a Strong Leader.

“Medical” separation anxiety is caused by a dog that is incapable of being alone. It shows itself through a complete inability to calm down, hyper-salivation, self-destructive behaviors – like chewing on the crate until he bleeds. Video your dog when you are away. If he NEVER CALMS DOWN, then he probably has what I call “medical” separation anxiety. This means the dog does Not have control. Skip to the section on “Medical” Separation Anxiety.

If the dog HAS CONTROL over what it is doing, then these steps will work. However, if the dog has what I call “medical separation anxiety” then the dog isn’t in a normal state of mind and doesn’t really have control over the choices it is making. The following steps are for “behavioral” separation anxiety, not “medical” separation anxiety.

1. Take leadership.

2. Teach the dog to enjoy being in a crate. (This is a complete topic of discussion by itself.) Don’t give the dog the run of the house when you’re gone, put him in a crate.

3. Don’t accept separation anxiety. Disagree with it with a leash correction – feed the leash through the crate. (Don’t leave him home alone with the leash on in the crate, though.) It’s an unacceptable behavior that the dog must learn to stop. Most dogs know how to spend time alone; your dog must learn too.

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4. Never reward his whining, crying, demanding behavior with what he wants – like taking him out of a crate or giving him attention.

5. When you initially get home IGNORE the dog. Make him become calm in order to get attention from you. Many times people reward hyper, anxious, inappropriate behavior with attention and affection simply because they just got home from work. Ignore ANY AND ALL unbalanced behavior (or disagree with it). Only reward calm, balanced behavior.

6. If you “give in” then you’re teaching the dog how to get what he wants. It will only get worse and the behavior will only expand to other areas.

7. WALK THE DOG or EXERCISE THE DOG before you leave. A tired dog will Sleep.

8. If you’re leaving the dog in the kennel for hours then Feed the dog using a “treat ball” or “treat puzzle” or some other tool where the dog has to work at it during the day in order to get his food. This will give him a “job” to do. You can also use chew toys. Make sure he has access to water when feeding or giving rawhides or chews.

9. If ignoring doesn’t work, then disagree with the whining. A sharp NO. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Every time the dog even attempts to whine, disagree with it.

10. ONCE THE DOG GETS CALM AND LIES DOWN IN THE CRATE – reward, reward, reward. YEA, GOOD BOY. Open the crate and let him out. Play with him, etc.

11. Put him back in the crate and repeat the exercise.

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KEYS TO: “MEDICAL” SEPARATION

ANXIETY What I call “Medical” separation anxiety is where a dog is

completely incapable of being left alone. This is most commonly seen when a dog simply can’t calm down – even when left entirely alone. If you’re not sure then video the dog and see what he does when you’re not there.

Behavioral separation anxiety is using behaviors in order to influence the PEOPLE to come let him out. Once the dog is convinced that the people are gone then he will lie down and go to sleep until they get home. “Medical” separation anxiety is when the dog simply CAN’T calm down. He’s not in his right mind. He will dig and gnaw, hyper-salivate and whine, etc.

If you come home and your dog’s head is covered in wetness even though he doesn’t have water in his crate, this is probably caused by hyper-salivation. It’s a sign of intense stress.

I, personally, did some tests with a dog who had “medical” separation anxiety. My findings were that the best way to address it is to get a 2nd dog and keep them BOTH in the SAME kennel when you are away. I recommend borrowing a dog from a friend or relative and testing the solution with video so see if your dog responds well to this. If he does then getting a 2nd dog may be a good idea.

This type of anxiety is very serious. Consult your veterinarian. Medication sometimes helps. With any solution the best test is to try it and video what happens. There are some calming plug-ins on the market that have D.A.P in them. Some people have said this works. Again, with any attempt at a solution, video will tell you if it worked.

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KEYS TO: STOPPING “TANTRUMS” Very simply stated – a dog will give you WHATEVER

BEHAVIOR gets rewarded. This means that a dog will try WHATEVER BEHAVIOR he can think of to get him what he wants (or to avoid what he doesn’t want). The behaviors include: whining, barking, yelping, screaming, growling, biting, flip-flopping on the leash, making freaky faces, etc.

These are TANTRUMS. When the dog throws a tantrum and gets his way then he will learn to throw more tantrums. When a dog throws a tantrum and you Wait Him Out and he doesn’t get what he wants, then he’ll stop throwing tantrums. It’s that simple.

1. Dog owners who freak out when the dog throws a fit, have dogs that throw fits. Because it gets the dog what he wants. The owner thinks the dog is dying or having an emotional collapse. So they give in. Don’t fall for it.

2. Put the dog on a leash and just hold the leash while the dog throws the fit. Repeatedly say Nooo, Shhhttt!, NO. To disagree with his behavior. Or say nothing, but don’t let him win. If he bites the leash do a leash correction so he’ll stop biting the leash.

3. It’s very exhausting to throw a fit. He can’t keep it up for more than 10 minutes (generally not more than 3). When he stops, just keep holding the leash until he relaxes (maybe 15-20 minutes). Then you can reward the fact that he STOPPED AND RELAXED.

If you believe temper tantrums are real and not a purely instinctual attempt to manipulate the world to get what he wants, then you’re going to be a victim of them. Two year old children throw temper tantrums – that’s how primal and instinctual they are. Just like with children, if the temper tantrum gets them results then

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they will keep coming. If, however, they don’t get anything positive, then the tantrums will stop.

DOGS DON’T THROW TEMPER TANTRUMS AND FITS WITH OTHER DOGS. They only do it with humans, because only humans are weak enough to fall for them. If an animal showed that amount of unbalanced energy in the wild with other animals he would be abandoned by the pack or seriously corrected.

Don’t be a sucker – no matter how “cute” your dog may be. Temper tantrums and fits are Never Allowed. Be strong. Don’t accept it. The dog will be much happier to have a balanced life.

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KEYS TO: GENERAL FEAR ISSUES Fear reactions are like a basic math equation to a dog.

(A) “I think I’m going to die”

PLUS (B) “In order to not die I’m going to bite/growl/run/pee myself” whatever inappropriate behavior I want to do.

EQUALS (C) “I didn’t die.”

So the dog learns that (B) – his inappropriate behavior – is the proper way to respond to (A) – his unrealistic fear.

The way we change this is to stop giving the dog a chance to do (B) – the inappropriate behavior. We don’t allow it, we disagree with it. At the same time we create a situation where we can keep the dog exposed to (A) – the fear trigger - continually or repeatedly until he runs out of energy to be afraid and simply submits to it.

When we do this the dog learns that when faced with (A) he can DO SOMETHING DIFFERENT. He can Relax and Submit. He can trust you and do what you say. In the end he won’t die. In short we give him a different solution for (B).

Fear issues are very difficult for most dog owners to help their dogs overcome. And very often fear issues are the root cause of aggression issues. So, let’s repeat some of the keys to fixing aggression issues.

1. Don’t accept it – disagree with it.

2. Disagree with it EARLIER in the process. Don’t wait for the full fear, disagree with the initial discomfort and require the dog to keep moving forward.

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3. Don’t let the dog control the situation, you control it.

4. Put the dog on a leash. Disagree. Be a leader.

EXAMPLE:

If a dog is afraid of the vacuum cleaner then put the dog on a leash and hold it. Turn on the vacuum cleaner and just sit there and hold the leash. The dog will throw a fit. DO THIS WITH A BLUE “CALM DOG” COLLAR (OR SOME OTHER COLLAR HE CAN’T PULL OUT OF) AND A LEASH. The dog will pull out of a standard collar. DON’T TRY TO COMFORT THE DOG, JUST BE SILENT.

After a certain amount of time the dog will exhaust himself and stop trying to get away. He may start shaking. Wait for that to pass also. (Hyper-salivation is a sign of serious stress, so if you see lots of saliva dripping off his tongue, stop and try a milder approach.)

When the dog finally surrenders to the experience and starts to relax then REWARD HIM with affection and reinforcement. How long will this take? Less than 15 minutes. Don’t reward him until he is RELAXED AND CALM.

After that, start increasing the distraction by moving the vacuum. Follow the process again. Reward by dropping treats as the vacuum moves and the dog will learn to love the vacuum. But you have to get through the initial terror before you can get to rewards. Only you have the strength to do that. He needs your strength to help him get through the fear stage and learn new ways to deal with things.

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KEYS TO: STOPPING POTTY PROBLEMS Potty problems can be Physical or Behavioral. Physical

potty problems are caused by dogs that cannot physically control themselves. This includes very young puppies (under 6 – 8 months), very old dogs, and dogs that might be sick or have some physical defect.

Behavioral potty problems are caused by dogs that have not been potty trained correctly or who are simply refusing to follow the rules – even though they know them.

The first step to stopping potty problems is proper crate training. Crate (or kennel) training keeps “accidents” from happening, which is great. But more importantly it teaches young dogs how to “hold it” for longer and longer periods. A dog with 24/7 access to a pee pad or the outdoors or just “going” on the floor will not learn how to hold his bladder. Dogs generally will not “go” where they sleep. So, follow the standard steps of crate training – which are:

1. Control when the dog eats – input equals output, and typically on a pretty dependable timeline. If the dog eats nonstop it will “go” unpredictable. If you feed him on a schedule he will go on a schedule.

2. After the puppy eats put him in the crate for 30-40 minutes. Then take him out to “go”. A walk is preferred. If he doesn’t go potty then put him back in the crate for 30 minutes and try again until he “goes”. Once he “goes” then he can have access to the house and play until the next “danger zone” (after he eats or drinks). “Danger zones” depend on the age of the dog. When you enter a “danger zone” then take the dog out. If he “goes”, GREAT! If not, put him in the crate for a while and then try again.

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3. As the puppy gets older you can extend the time between potty breaks. My rule of thumb is that a dog should be able to “hold it” for 30-60 minutes for every month he is old. So, a 5 month puppy should be able to go 2.5 hours to a MAXIMUM for 5 hours between potty breaks. Different dogs have different abilities. A 9 month old puppy should be able to go all night, no problem, and probably a full workday – again, depending on the dog.

- This rule of thumb applies to a dog in a crate. A dog with full access to the house will not “hold it” that long.

4. Dogs are trained on when and where to “go” by repetition. Some dogs prefer, however, to “go” on a walk. That is because different dogs “going” response is activated different ways. Some are activated by walking and sniffing.

WHAT ABOUT ADULT DOGS OR ALREADY TRAINED DOGS?

If an adult dog was never trained, then treat him like a puppy until he is trained. Once a dog is trained to go outside and he has no physical issues, then his “going” in the house is not an “accident”. It is an “on purpose”.

First, if it’s only pee determine if he is MARKING (just a little pee generally ON things like chairs, beds and walls) or if he is URINATING (which is large volumes typically in the middle of the floor). If he is MARKING then the dog needs to be walked every day around the block. This will stop the marking in the house, most likely, because dogs MARK the perimeter of their territory. By making his territory larger you will allow him to MARK outside your house.

- YOU MUST NEUTRALIZE ANY POTTY AREAS WITH A PET STAIN AND ODOR ELIMINATOR.

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Adult, trained dogs that have no health issues are not going inside “on accident”. So you must address the issue as you would any other behavioral issue.

First, it is a common misconception that if you don’t “catch a dog in the act” that you can’t correct him. Dogs know what their own urine and feces smells like – that’s why they are always sniffing outside, to see WHO came by!! So, the way to correct a dog who has “gone” in the house:

1. Bring him to it and bring his head near enough to smell it – don’t “rub his nose in it”.

2. Correct the dog using mild, but firm, leash corrections just like you would with any other issue.

3. Bring the dog outside and say “go outside”. Leave him for a bit.

4. Clean and Neutralize the area.

5. ANYTIME you see the dog “go” outside then praise and reward him.

6. If he doesn’t seem to get it, then repeat the crate training.

(Note: Sometimes it helps a new dog if you take his feces outside and put some of it where you want him to “go” in the future.)

The dog will probably still “go” in the house 3-5 more times. But if you correct him each time firmly and neutralize then the vast majority of dogs will stop going inside. This requires LEADERSHIP and CORRECTION.

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E-COLLAR TRAINING REMINDERS (E-Collars are electronic “shock” collars, not the Blue

Plastic “Calm Dog” Collars.) Most clients don’t use E-collars.

The vast majority of dogs don’t require E-Collar training. It is usually reserved for very serious issues with large dogs where no other method works. The most typical use is with “fighting” type dogs who won’t stop trying to go after other dogs. We do not randomly use E-Collars on dogs. If your dog needed one to stop his unwanted or dangerous behavior then here are some reminders.

NOTE: These instructions are for simply using an e-collar as an “aversion” or a replacement for a leash correction. There are many ways and training systems for e-collars. E-collar training is a specialty. For more advanced training seek out an e-collar training specialist.

BASIC E-COLLAR RULES:

1. The e-collar must be properly fitted to the dog. Typically this means you should be able to only put one finger behind the e-collar. A collar that is too loose will not work consistently or effectively. The collar must also be in the proper location – typically under the neck right up near the chin.

2. Use the amount of stimulation that is appropriate for your dog. The basic rules is this: If the dog doesn’t stop doing the behavior and turn away or try to give you a different behavior (even if it’s not the exact behavior that you want) then the stimulation is too low. If the dog yelps and jumps then the stimulation is probably too high for NORMAL training. YELPING AND JUMPING AWAY my not be too much stimulation if you are dealing with HIGHLY DANGEROUS situations, such as dog on dog aggression or dog on human aggression. The

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stimulation should be appropriate to stop the behavior and provide safety from an aggressive or destructive dog.

3. Our main goal with the collar is to use it for “aversion” therapy. In aversion therapy we are trying to get the dog to STOP doing some unwanted behavior and instead Calm Down, Slow Down, Sit Down, or Pay Attention To The Human.

4. Never let children use an e-collar on a dog. Keep the collar and the remote away from where children can play with them.

5. It’s best to have a leash on any dog that is being e-collar trained (especially at first) so that you can get control of the dog if he gets confused and attempts to simply run away.

6. Don’t over-use the e-collar and don’t under-use it. Have a specific goal and correct the dog for unwanted behavior.

7. E-collars cannot be worn for more than 8 hours in any 24 hour period. Regularly check the dog’s neck for pressure sores. Clean the neck area regularly.

8. Read and follow all instructions and warnings that came with your e-collar.

9. If the dog seems confused and performs erratically, then seek help from a professional. (Call us for advice.)

10. E-Collars are not magical regarding aggression. Aggression is a very unpredictable behavior at times. Please ensure that you properly protect children, adults and pets from aggressive dogs. Never assume that the e-collar is enough.

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HOW TO USE THE E-COLLAR

You are quite simply using the e-collar just like you would any “leash correction”. You are using it to disagree with the dog.

Typically say, “NO” and give the dog a second to correct himself. If he doesn’t, then press the stimulation button. Hold it until the dog turns away from the unwanted behavior.

If you are trying to GET THE DOG to PERFORM a particular behavior (like sit or down) then do so very carefully. Sit and Down are typically “obedience” commands and not “behavioral issues”. The dog must ABSOLUTELY KNOW what you want if you are trying to use an e-collar as something other than an aversion device.

We typically only use e-collars for very stubborn dog aggression issues toward other dogs on the walk and behind fences while walking. Following are reminders for that use.

1. Make sure the collar is “tuned” to the proper level of stimulation for the dog. Train the dog to come toward you when he feels stimulation.

2. When the dog “alerts” to or fixates on the target dog then press and hold the stimulation until he turns away. It is best to step a few feet away from the dog when stimulating so that he has to TURN BACK to come back to you.

3. The instant he turns away, stop the stimulation and say “Good Boy” or “Yes!” and reward him.

4. If he turns back and starts fixating on the target dog again then repeat the correction.

5. It’s best to start doing this exercise at the farthest distance that your dog will fixate on other dogs from and then move closer and closer as he stops fixating.

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IMPORTANT – E-collar corrections will generally NOT STOP A DOG FIGHT THAT IS IN PROGRESS. These methods are to teach your dog to stop fixating on and lunging/barking at other dogs. Keep a leash on your dog! Don’t let him get close enough to physically attack another dog.

Use your e-collar with care and with confidence. Many dogs need an e-collar to be happy, balanced and appropriate around other animals.

If you dog starts acting erratically or aggressively, discontinue use of the collar without professional supervision.

Remember to reward good behavior.

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I ACKNOWLEDGE THAT DOG TRAINING IS AN UNPREDICTABLE ACTIVITY. I UNDERSTAND THAT DOG TRAINING CAN AND DOES CREATE SITUATIONS WHERE THE DOG MIGHT BITE. IF I FEEL UNCOMFORTABLE ABOUT ANYTHING THAT I AM ASKED TO DO OR THAT MY DOG IS ASKED TO DO I WILL SAY SO TO THE TRAINER. I WILL NOT PARTICIPATE IN ANY ACTIVITY THAT I FEEL IS UNSAFE TO ME, MY FAMILY OR THE DOG. I WILL USE MY OWN EXPERIENCE WITH MY DOG TO ADVISE THE TRAINER OF ACTIVITIES THAT I FEEL MIGHT BE UNSAFE. I WILL NOT HOLD THE TRAINER OR TRAINING COMPANY LIABLE FOR INJURIES TO MYSELF, OTHER PEOPLE, OR MY DOG DUE TO TRAINING. IF I EVER TRY A TRAINING ACTIVITY THAT I FEEL MAY CAUSE A BITE I WILL MUZZLE MY DOG FOR SAFETY. I WILL NOT ATTEMPT TO TEACH ANYONE UNDER THE AGE OF 18 TO DO “DOMINANT” DOG TRAINING ACTIVITIES. I WILL OBSERVE MY DOG AND CHILDREN TO ENSURE THEIR SAFETY FOR LEAST TWO WEEKS AFTER TRAINING.

MONEY BACK GUARANTEE ONLY APPLIES TO THE TRAINING FEE FOR THE MOST RECENT TRAINING SESSION. NOT BOARDING, EQUIPMENT, TRIP OR OTHER NON-TRAINING FEES. MONEY BACK GUARANTEE DOES NOT APPLY TO PUPPY TRAINING.

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NOTES:

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This page intentionally left blank so the disclaimer page can be removed.

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DISCLAIMER

I ACKNOWLEDGE THAT DOG TRAINING IS AN UNPREDICTABLE ACTIVITY. I UNDERSTAND THAT DOG TRAINING CAN AND DOES CREATE SITUATIONS WHERE THE DOG MIGHT BITE. IF I FEEL UNCOMFORTABLE ABOUT ANYTHING THAT I AM ASKED TO DO OR THAT MY DOG IS ASKED TO DO I WILL SAY SO TO THE TRAINER. I WILL NOT PARTICIPATE IN ANY ACTIVITY THAT I FEEL IS UNSAFE TO ME, MY FAMILY OR THE DOG. I WILL USE MY OWN EXPERIENCE WITH MY DOG TO ADVISE THE TRAINER OF ACTIVITIES THAT I FEEL MIGHT BE UNSAFE. I WILL NOT HOLD THE TRAINER OR TRAINING COMPANY LIABLE FOR INJURIES TO MYSELF, OTHER PEOPLE, OR MY DOG DUE TO TRAINING. IF I EVER TRY A TRAINING ACTIVITY THAT I FEEL MAY CAUSE A BITE I WILL MUZZLE MY DOG FOR SAFETY. I WILL NOT ATTEMPT TO TEACH ANYONE UNDER THE AGE OF 18 TO DO “DOMINANT” DOG TRAINING ACTIVITIES. I WILL OBSERVE MY DOG AND CHILDREN TO ENSURE THEIR SAFETY FOR LEAST TWO WEEKS AFTER TRAINING.

MONEY BACK GUARANTEE ONLY APPLIES TO THE TRAINING FEE FOR THE MOST RECENT TRAINING SESSION. NOT BOARDING, EQUIPMENT, TRIP OR OTHER NON-TRAINING FEES. MONEY BACK GUARANTEE DOES NOT APPLY TO PUPPY TRAINING.

NAME: ____________________________________

DATE: _____________________________________

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