by elizabeth morrison

7/28/2019 By Elizabeth Morrison

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by Elizabeth Morrison

For years I swore I had

no interest in entrelac. It

looked so fiddly and the

results always seemed

not worth the effort. My

first ball of Mini Mochi

changed my thinking. I

envisioned it in an

entrelac hat, which I

made and loved. Istarted playing around

with the technique more

and have come to

appreciate it. It helped

that I learned how to

knit my rows backwards,

right side always facing

me, so I didn’t have to

turn and purl all those

fiddly little sections.

This close-fitting

pullover is worked in

two sections. First, the

entrelac panel is worked

from side to side with

Mini Mochi.

The main body of the sweater is worked top-down, in one piece, with raglan sleeves. The

bodice is worked in rows and sleeves are worked circularly. Waist shaping is worked in center

front and center back. The entrelac panel and sweater are blocked before seaming.

This versatile sweater could be worn with dressy slacks or a skirt for work, or over jeans for more casual wear.

model: Sarah Caldwell

photos: Elizabeth Morrison

SIZE

XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size S)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 31.5[34, 37.5, 42, 45, 50.5, 54] inchesLength: 25 inches for all sizes

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Note: Choose a size with 0-3 inches negative ease. Size may be altered slightly by blocking

entrelac panel wider or narrower.

MATERIALS

Yarn

[MC] Louet Gems Merino Sport [100% superwash merino wool; 225yd/203m per 100gskein; color: #42 Eggplant; 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6] skeins

[CC] Crystal Palace Yarns Mini Mochi [80% superwash merino wool, 20% nylon;

195yd/178m per 50g ball]; color: #107 Autumn Rainbow; 1[1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2] skeins

Recommended needle size [always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is

unique]

1 set US #1/2.25mm double-point needles

1 set US #3/3.25mm double-point needles

1 US #1/2.25mm circular needle, 24 inches or longer

1 US #3/3.25mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer

1 set US #1/2.25 mm straight needles (optional)

Note: Longer circular needles recommended for larger sizes.

Notions

Stitch markers

Waste yarn

Yarn needle

GAUGE

22 sts / 30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st using larger needles and MC, after blockingApprox. 28 sts = 4 inches using smaller needles and CC

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The entrelac panel in this pattern incorporates 1 selvedge st at each side edge, for ease in

finishing. As a result, these directions may look a little different from other entrelac patterns.

A tutorial on entrelac knititng can be found here.

1x1 Rib (worked in the round over an even number of sts):

ll Rounds: [K1, p1] to end.

Instructions for the Backward Loop Cast On can be found here.

http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEdf11/patterns.php#ksbbb



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DIRECTIONS

Using circular or straight

needle(s) in smaller size and

CC, CO 82 sts.

P 1 row.

Note: Turn work at end of

each row unless otherwise

indicated.

FIRST TIER (Base

Triangles):

Row 1 [RS]: K2.

Row 2 [WS]: P1, placemarker.

Row 3 [RS]: K2.

Even-Numbered Rows 4-14

[WS]: P to marker. Remove

marker after working Row

14.

Row 5 [RS]: K3.

Row 7 [RS]: K4.

Row 9 [RS]: K5.

Row 11 [RS]: K6.

Row 13 [RS]: K7.

Row 15 [RS]: K9. First

triangle is complete.

Repeat Rows 2-15 nine times more: total of 10 triangles.

Note: If you wish to lengthen or shorten the sweater, work more or fewer base triangles. Each

triangle will change the length of the panel by approx. 1.75 inches.

SECOND TIER (Right-Slanting Diamonds and Side Triangles):

Left Side Triangle: Row 1 [WS]: P2.

Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1, m1, k1. Row 3 [WS]: P2, p2tog.



Row 4 [RS]: Sl 1, k1, m1, k1.

Row 5 [WS]: P3, p2tog.

Even-Numbered Rows 6-14 [RS]: Sl 1, k to last st, m1, k1.



Row 11 [WS]: P6, p2tog. Row 13 [WS]: P7, p2tog.

Row 15 [WS]: P8, p2tog. Do not turn work.

Right-Slanting Diamond: With WS facing, continuing from end of last row worked, pick up and p 8 sts along side edge

of triangle from previous tier; sl last picked-up st to left needle, p2tog (last st of current

diamond purled together with 1 st of triangle from previous tier).

Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, k7.


Rows 3-14: Work as for Rows 1-2. Do not turn work after completing Row 14. All sts of

triangle from previous tier have been worked.

Work eight more right-slanting diamonds. All sts of triangles from previous tier have been

worked; edge st remains

unworked.

Right Side Triangle: With WS facing,

continuing from end of

last row worked, pick up

and p 8 sts along side

edge of triangle from

previous tier; p edge st.

Row 1 [RS]: K1, k2tog,

k6.

Even-Numbered Rows 2-

12 [WS]: P to end.


k5.


k4.


k3.


k2.

Row 11 [RS]: K1, k2tog, k1.



Row 13 [RS]: K1, k2tog. 2 sts remain in right side triangle.

Row 14 [WS]: P2.

THIRD TIER (Left-Slanting Diamonds)

Left-Slanting Diamond: With RS facing, k2; continuing from these sts, pick up and k 7 sts along side edge of right side

triangle; sl last picked-up st to left needle, k2tog tbl (last st of current diamond knit together

with 1 st of diamond from previous tier, through back loops).

Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, p7.

Row 2 [RS]: K7, ssk.

Rows 3-14: Work as for Rows 1-2. Do not turn work after completing Row 14.

Next Diamond: With RS facing, continuing from end of last row worked, pick up and k 8 sts along side edge

of diamond from previous tier; sl last picked-up st to left needle, k2tog tbl (last st of currentdiamond knit together with 1 st of diamond from previous tier, through back loops).

Continue as for First Diamond.

Work eight more left-slanting diamonds. All sts of previous tier have been worked, except

edge st; at end of Row 14 of last diamond, k edge st.

FOURTH TIER Work as for second tier, picking up sts along side edges of diamonds from previous tier.

Repeat third and fourth tiers 1[1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2] times more. You will have worked 6[6, 6, 6, 6,

8, 8] tiers, including base triangles.

LAST TIER (End Triangles)

First Triangle: With RS facing, k 2 remaining sts of last triangle of previous tier.

With WS facing, p these 2 sts together.

With RS facing, continuing from st just worked, pick up and k 8 sts along side edge of triangle

from previous tier; sl last picked-up st to left needle, k2tog tbl. 9 sts on right needle.

Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, p8.

Row 2 [RS]: K2tog, k6, ssk.Odd-numbered Rows 3-13 [WS]: Sl 1, p to end.

Row 4 [RS]: K2tog, k5, ssk.





Row 14 [RS]: K2tog, ssk.

Row 15 [WS]: P2tog.

Next Triangle:

With RS facing, continuing from last st of previous triangle, pick up and k 8 sts along sideedge of diamond from previous tier; sl last picked-up st to left needle, k2tog tbl.



Continue as for First Triangle.

Work eight more triangles. 2 sts remain: 1 st on right needle, and edge st on left needle. BO

remaining st.

SWEATER Yoke: Using circular needle in

larger size and MC, CO

52[52, 56, 56, 62, 66, 74] sts.

P 1 row.

Set-up Row [RS]: K1, m1, place marker, k1, m1, k8[8,

8, 8, 10, 10, 12], m1, place

marker, k1, m1, k30[30, 34,

34, 36, 40, 44], m1, placemarker, k1, m1, k8[8, 8, 8,

10, 10, 12], m1, place

marker, k1, m1, k1. 60[60,

64, 64, 70, 74, 82] sts.

P 1 row.

ext Row [RS]: *K to

marker, m1, slip marker, k1,

m1; repeat from * three

times more, k to end. 8 sts

increased.

P 1 row.

Repeat these 2 rows 22[25,

25, 27, 30, 33, 36] times

more. 244[268, 272, 296,

318, 346, 378] sts.

Lower Body:

Note: Use backward loop method when casting on sts for underarms.

Dividing Row [RS]: *K to marker, remove marker, k1, place next 56[62, 62, 68, 74, 80, 88] sts

(all sts to following marker) on waste yarn for sleeve, remove marker, CO 6[6, 14, 20, 24, 26,

26] sts for underarm; repeat from * once more, k to end. 144[156, 176, 200, 218, 238, 254] sts.

ext Row [WS]: P56[62, 70, 82, 90, 98, 104], place marker, p32[32, 36, 36, 38, 42, 46], place

marker, p56[62, 70, 82, 90, 98, 104].

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 2 inches from underarm, ending with a WS

row.

Shape Waist:



Waist Decrease Row [RS]: K2, ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k to next

marker, slip marker, ssk, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.

Work 5 rows in stockinette st.

Repeat these 6 rows 4 times more, then work Waist Decrease Row once more. 120[132, 152,

176, 194, 214, 230] sts.


Waist Increase Row [RS]: K2, m1, k to marker, m1, slip marker, k to next marker, slip marker,

m1, k to last 2 sts, m1, k2.


Repeat these 6 rows 4 times more, then work Waist Increase Row once more. 144[156, 176,

200, 218, 238, 254] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 17[16, 16, 15.25, 14.75, 14, 13.25] inches from

underarm (23.5 inches at center back for all sizes), or 1.25 inches less than desired length.

Break yarn. Place all sts on waste yarn. Be sure the waste yarn is long enough that the fabriccan lay flat and stretch slightly, and tie ends of waste yarn to secure. Sweater body will be

blocked with sts on waste

yarn.

SLEEVES Place 56[62, 62, 68, 74, 80,

88] held sts of one sleeve on

double-point needles in

larger size. Beginning at

center of CO underarm edge,

pick up and k 3[3, 7, 10, 12,

13, 13] sts (1 st in each CO

st) to beginning of held sts, k

held sts, pick up and k 3[3,

7, 10, 12, 13, 13] sts to

center of underarm. 62[68,

76, 88, 98, 106, 114] sts.

Join to work in the round.

Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X

Only: ext Round: *K2, k2tog;

repeat from * -[-, 1, 2, 1, 2,

2] times more, k to last -[-, 8,

12, 8, 12, 12] sts, **ssk, k2;

repeat from ** -[-, 1, 2, 1, 2,

2] times more. -[-, 72, 82,

94, 100, 108] sts.

All Sizes: K 9[9, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8] rounds.

Note: As written, sleeve will measure 15[15, 15, 16, 16, 16, 16] inches from underarm when



completed. To shorten sleeves, work fewer rounds at this point.

Decrease Round: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.

K 7 rounds.

Repeat these 8 rounds 11[11, 11, 12, 12, 12, 12] times more. 38[44, 48, 56, 68, 74, 82] sts.

Sleeve measures approx. 14[14, 14, 15, 15, 15, 15] inches from underarm; if more length is

desired, continue in stockinette st until sleeve measures 1 inch less than desired length.

Cuff: Using double-point needles in smaller size, work in 1x1 Rib until cuff measures 1 inch.

Loosely BO all sts.

Work other sleeve in the same way.

FINISHINGBlock entrelac panel so that it measures 18 inches long and 6[6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8] inches wide,

ensuring that edges are straight.

Block sweater to

measurements shown in

schematic.

Pin entrelac panel to front

edges of sweater. Align

lower edge of panel with

lower edge of sweater; upper

edge of panel should be 5.5inches below CO edge of

front neckline. Sew panel to

front edges of sweater.

Lower Band: Place held sts of sweater on

circular needle in smaller

size and join yarn at left side,

below left underarm. K held

sts to beginning of entrelac

panel; pick up and k 3 sts for

every 4 rows along lower

edge of entrelac panel, k to

end of held sts. Place marker

to indicate end of round.

Count sts to ensure that you

have an even number;

decrease 1 st if necessary to

obtain an even number.

Work in 1x1 Rib until lower band measures 1.25 inches. Loosely BO all sts.



Neckband: Using double-point needles in smaller size, beginning at right back corner of neckline with RS

facing, pick up and k sts as follows: 1 st in each CO st across back neckline and along upper

edge of left sleeve, 3 sts in every 4 rows along left front neckline edge, place marker, 3 sts in

every 4 rows across upper edge of entrelac panel, place marker, 3 sts in every 4 rows along

right front neckline edge, 1 st in each CO along upper edge of right sleeve to beginning of round. Join to work in the round. Count sts to ensure that you have an even number.

Round 1: *Work in 1x1 Rib to 1 st before marker, S2KP2, removing marker and replacing it to

the right of [[S2KP2] just worked; repeat from * once more, continue in 1x1 Rib to end of

round. 4 sts decreased.

Round 2: *Work in 1x1 Rib to marker, slip marker, k1; repeat from * once more, continue in

1x1 Rib to end of round.

Repeat these 2 rounds until neckband measures 0.75 inch. Loosely BO all sts.

Weave in ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER Elizabeth Morrison lives and knits in Madison, Wisconsin.

by elizabeth morrison

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