bluesign innovation for extremes 06.05.2009
DESCRIPTION
Detlef Fischer Bluesign Presentation Innov_Ex 09TRANSCRIPT
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• Introduction
• Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems
• The bluesign® standard creates transparency
• Industry challenges – resource management
Agenda for today
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© by bluesign technologies ag
Part 1
• Introduction
• Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems
• The bluesign® standard creates transparency
• Industry challenges – resource management
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bluesign technologies ag
The company
• Founded in 2000, based in St.Gallen, Switzerland (EMPA building)
• Emerged from a project with Schoeller Textil, Nike and Huntsman
• Development of “Supply Chain Tools” for the textile and related industry
• Recognized by leading chemical companies such as Huntsman, Clariant, DyStar, CHT-Group, etc.
• Supported by Patagonia, MEC, The North Face, VAUDE, Helly Hansen, Eileen Fisher, Haglöfs, R.E.I. etc.
• SGS as shareholder since July 2008
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© by bluesign technologies ag
bluesign technologies ag
Goal
Textile manu-
facturers
Fibre manu-
facturers
ChemicalSuppliers
Brands & Retailers
• Vision: “One world – one standard”
• Bringing together the entire textile manufacturing chain to jointly reduce the environmental footprint of the textile industry
bluesign® standard
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© by bluesign technologies ag
Part 2
• Introduction
• Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems
• The bluesign® standard creates transparency
• Industry challenges – resource management
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© by bluesign technologies ag
Strict control mechanism in
the supply chain
Consumers assume that retailers are
managing allrisks (EHS, ethical)
on their behalf
Just one case of allergy or health issue in the public is enough to put the brand at risk
» Restoring a damaged reputation is extremely costly
Retailer/Brand situation
Brand
Customer loyalty• People wear it (often next to skin)• People identify with it•Emotional binding
Customer requirements•A safe product•An environmentally friendly product•A sustainable product
"Brand Protection"
Consequence
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What happened in the last 20 years?
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Current “ECO” approaches …
Eco labels
… the Solution?
Restricted Substance Lists (RSL)
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© by bluesign technologies ag
Analyses show
» MAK-Amines
» PVC & Phthalates
» APEO
» Heavy Metals
» PFOA and PFOS
» Sensitizing dyes
» Toxic solvents
» Other toxic substances
Harmful substances in textile products!
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Approach by brands and retailers
• Fact: Still a growing number of “problems”
• Sourcing in locations with unknown EHS standards
• Chemical industry can‘t handle increasing number of RSLs
• EHS data of chemical components are often not available
• In many cases, the decision maker at the manufacturing level does not possess the necessary chemical and toxicological know-how
• Uncertainty through “new” problem substances e.g. PFOA / PFOS
Unsatisfying implementation of RSLs
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Practical experience
Finding
It is not possible to run a business based on analytical testing!
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Material Safety Data Sheet l
Practical experience
Recent European ECLIPS study shows:
» Many MSDS are of generally poor quality
» Large amount of products and substances not classified correctly
» Much of important information not available
» Implementation of EU-Directive deficient in 69%
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Material Safety Data Sheet ll
Practical experience
MSDS from company with high EHS-Standards:
» Written for environmental chemistry specialists and toxicologists
» Interpretation complicated
» For decision maker in the production difficult to implement
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Material Safety Data Sheet lll
Practical experience
MSDS of insufficient quality:
» Data content doesn’t allow interpretation for end product
» Often simply no data or inaccurate data available
» Problem substances listed in RSLs are often not mentioned
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Consequence
Practical experience
If You Don’t Know, You Don’t Care!
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© by bluesign technologies ag
Part 3
• Introduction
• Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems
• The bluesign® standard creates transparency
• Industry challenges – resource management
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» Environment
» Health
» Safety
» Resource productivity
Worldwide industry standard
The bluesign® standard
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work place
EHS Aspects …
… in textile production
ground-water contamination
Soilcontamination
NO x
CO2
UFP‘s
CH4
SO2
waste water
waste
products
emission
noise
water
raw material
energy
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Blackbox
Conventional approach
Focus on end-product
End-product
Brands need more information
Textile production chain
STOP
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Blackbox
bluesign® approach
bluesign® standard
Monitoring & Optimisation
Input Process / Technology
Focus on input streams
STOP
STOP
End-productTextile production chain
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Input stream management
The five pillars of the bluesign® standard
Over 600 restricted and banned substances are monitored within the bluesign® standard
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» Use of eco-efficient products = to achieve best performance with optimized resource consumption and minimum air and water emissions
» Ecological footprint: minimized energy and material input per kg of textile product
Input stream management
Resource productivity
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» Carcinogenic substances
» Mutagenic substances
» Neurotoxic substances
» Endocrine substances
» Sensitizing and irritating substances
» And others
Input stream management
Consumer safety
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» Emission factor (e-factor)
» Substance emission factor (s-factor)
» Recipe calculation based on e-factors leads to VOC optimisation
Input stream management
Air emission
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Input stream management
Water emission
» Biodegradability, bioelimination
» Fish-, bacteria-, daphnia-, algae toxicity
» COD, BOD, TOC
» AOX
» Aliphatic hydrocarbons, sulfate, phosphate a.o.
» ARS according TEGEWA Class I-III
» Heavy metals
» And others
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Consideration of several relevant exposure scenarios:
» Evaporation at large surfaces at stenter, printing and coating applications
» Handling at the dyeing machine at high temperatures (batching tank)
» Handling of almost empty barrel
Input stream management
Occupational health and safety
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Input stream management
Rating based on ecotoxicological data
blue: All foreseeable applications within the bluesign® standard
grey: Can be used for “Performance Products” under conditions provided by “Best Available Technology” – as long as consumer safety is not compromised
black: Usage ban
Component categorization
(A)(B)(C)
Rating Definition of applications
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Input stream management
Tackle the root of the problem:
» Clean components lead to clean products and reduce environmental impact
Holistic approach
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The bluesign® standard in summary
Qualitative comparison
Focus on Consumer Safety Focus on Environment
Mark
et
Pen
etr
ati
on
Focus on Resources & Processes
Eco-Labels
EU Eco Flower
bluesign® standard
GOTS
Various RSLs
bluefinder™
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Various “Restricted Substance Lists”» Nike, Levi’s, New Balance, R.E.I., Columbia, adidas, PUMA, H&M,
C&A, M&S, IKEA, Coats and others
REACH
» Concentration of „Substances of Very High Concern“ (SVHC) in bluesign® approved fabrics is smaller than 0.1%
No reporting requirement according to article 33 REACH
Notification according to article 2 REACH does not apply
» Current list of SVHC on ECHA websitehttp://echa.europa.eu/chem_data/candidate_list_table_en.asp
The bluesign® standard in summary
Manufacturers fulfill the following guidelines
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Tools – chemical industry
• Evaluation – Rating – Registration of commercially available chemical products
• Translates the specialist knowledge of chemists and toxicologists into the language of the user
• EHS-specialists of the chemical industry can register their products online on their own
• Easy to use
bluetool™
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Tools – textile manufacturers
bluesign® screening
• Screening Agreement and NDA
• Preparative steps – data collection
• On-site verification
• Compatibility with bluesign® standard
• Report with recommendations and “roadmap”
Phase 1:Screening
Phase 2:Implementation
• System Partner Agreement
• Implementation of recommendations
• Analytics per range – Certificate
• Re-screening
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Tools – textile manufacturers
• Selecting products for new applications
• Easily find alternatives for existing applications
• Innovation security – new products are safe from the beginning
• Online tool – accessible anytime, anywhere
• Growing database
• With these products RSLs and SVHC requirements are met
bluefinder™
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Tools – brands and retailer
• Database including ecological and toxicological data of chemical substances relevant for textiles
• Access to currently issued certificates
• Overview of manufacturers:
» in screening process
» in implementation phase
» with certified products
• Manufacturers with access to the bluefinder™
blueguide™ (in development)
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© by bluesign technologies ag
Part 4
• Introduction
• Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems
• The bluesign® standard creates transparency
• Industry challenges – resource management
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Environmental Impacts …
… of the textile industryChemicals
•25% of the chemicals produced worldwide are used directly or indirectly for textiles (Source: Greenpeace Germany)
» Environmental impact
Energy
•High energy consumption in production, transport, retail and use
» Contribution to global warming (CO2)
•Growing of cotton: 4,000 – 30,000 l / kg cotton•Finishing of textiles: up to 700 l freshwater / kg textile•Waste water in production: up to 600 l / kg textile•Use of water for a large brand – 1,200 small lakes or43,000 Olympic-size swimming pools per annum» Mostly drinking water quality
Water
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Resource management
Motivation for Manufacturers
Resource savings help to keep costs down by potentially reducing chemicals, water and energy using existing equipment…
…not dependent on capital investment!
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Resource management
Resource inflation components (rici):• Electrical Energy ric1
• Water ric2
• Base Chemicals ric3
• Additives ric4
• Calorific Energy ric5
Resource inflation components:
Resource inflation factor: rif = 2.01
rici =
1.0 1.551.0 1.771.0 2.241.0 1.671.0 2.61
BAT current
Resource inflation factor
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Cost inflation factor
Resource management
Total = 2.01
Electrical energy = 1.55Water = 1.77Base chemicals = 2.24
Additives = 1.67Calorific energy= 2.61
Resource Inflation (rif):
Cost Inflation (cif):
Total = 2.09
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0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
Energy el. Water Chemicals Auxiliaries Energy cal.
eff. valueBAT internal
Resource management
Overview of the production process
rif 2.01
Cost 0.07 €/kWh 2 €/m3 0.45 €/kg 1.1 €/kg 0.015 €/kWh
cif 2.09
Cost savings 897’000 €
BAT
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Resource management
Convergence to BAT R
esou
rce I
nfl
ati
on
Facto
r (r
if)
Cost Inflation Factor (cif)
Initial-Screening
Optimum
0
1
2
3
1
1. Re-Screening
2. Re-Screening
2.5 1.75
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bluesign® screening
» Rating of all components in use
» Monitoring of processes
» Data acquisition and balancing of resources
» Screening report with recommendations considering the current local situation
» Indication of resources and cost saving potentials compared to “Best Available Technology”
Full factory analysis
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bluesign® screening
» Transparency in the production
» Breaking down complex EHS-issues to a manageable level
» Solution oriented
» Compliance with all common RSLs and meeting SVHC requirements
» “Insurance” for manufacturers, retailers and brands
Outcome
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The bluesign® standard
• Consumer Safety Only approved components low on harmful substances are used
• Conserving Resources Minimized resource consumption leads to a sustainable product
• High-tech and ComfortNo compromise in functionality, quality or design
Developed in Switzerland
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The bluesign® standard …
… trademark strategy
Semi Finished Product
Components
• Chemical comp.• Accessories• Yarns
Final Product
Labels
Hang Tags
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bluesign technologies ag
EMPA Building
Lerchenfeldstrasse 5
CH-9014 St. Gallen
Fon +41 (0) 71 272 29 90
Fax +41 (0) 71 272 29 99
www.bluesign.com
Thank you
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Supporter
bluesign® system partner
» Huntsman, Switzerland
» Clariant, Switzerland
» DyStar, Germany
» ERBA, Switzerland
» Granger‘s, UK
» SANITIZED, Switzerland
» Sympatex, Germany
» CHT/BEZEMA, Germany
» Asahi Glass, Japan
» Mahlo, Germany
» Benninger, Switzerland
» Polygiene, Sweden
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bluesign® system partner
» Hong Kong Textiles, Hong Kong
» G-FUN Industrial, Taiwan
» Utermost Dyeing & Finishing, Taiwan
» Paltex, Taiwan
» Ho Chien Enterprise, Taiwan
» Youngone, Korea
» Grand Textile, Taiwan
» Fortune Spring, Taiwan
» Fabricoat, Taiwan
Manufacturers in screening process
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bluesign® system partner
» Polartec, USA
» FILÓ, Brazil
» M.I.T.I., Italy
» Bischoff Gamma, Thailand
» Guan Lin / Synnix Technology, Taiwan
Manufacturers in implementation phase
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bluesign® system partner
» Schoeller Textil, Switzerland
» Eschler, Switzerland
» Formosa Taffeta, Taiwan
» Getzner, Austria
» Everest Textile, Taiwan
» Schoeller Wool, Austria
» Lauffenmühle, Germany
» Singtex, Taiwan
» HOYU, Taiwan
» Kingwhale, Taiwan
» Trueway, Taiwan
» Sunny Textile, Taiwan
» and others
Manufacturers with certified products
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bluesign® member
» Patagonia, USA
» Mountain Equipment CO-OP, Canada
» The North Face, USA
» VAUDE Sports, Germany
» Helly Hansen, Norway
» Eileen Fisher, USA
» Haglöfs, Sweden
» Jako-O, Germany
» R.E.I., USA
» Deuter, Germany
Brands and retailers