BICYCLE RIDE from MUMBAI to GOA

The coastal route to Goa sounds both leisurely and innocuous. The image upon that inward eye is a gentle cruise meandering past lazy fishing villages, lush paddy fields and a calm blue ocean washing over golden sand. The route was anything but. Over five days and a half, we covered 550 kilometres, ascended 4550 metres, and braved 45 climbs, each ranging from 50-200 metres. If you want a comparison, the Bhor Ghat to Khandala is 550 metres. In effect, we had climbed Bhor Ghat eight times in 5½ days. When we set out on November 6, we were not armed with this information. A few sorties to Yeoor and Ghodbunder, and a recce up to Shrivardhan were, on hindsight, inadequate preparation for me. THE PANNIER For a month before the trip, I scouted around for cost-efficient pannier racks. The choice wasn’t overwhelming. There was the expensive, light Zefal (Rs 3800 for the rack); the clunky BTwin (heavy at 1.5 kgs); and the cantilevered Probike (Rs 750, under 500 gms) that could carry a limited load of 9 kgs. I settled for the Probike. The clothes and sleeping bag weighed under 5 kgs. In addition, I slung a waist pouch for the tools, spare tubes and shades. A front handle bag carried medicines and toiletries. The havasac had hydration, chargers, batteries and nutrition. I had distributed the total weight of around 9 kgs among four bags.

Havasac and Waist pouch Rear pannier and handlebag Interestingly, each of us made different choices. Sid chose the Btwin rack, Bhavin paired the Zefal with Btwin pannier bags, Santosh toted a backpack with a sleeping bag on a Cantilevered rack, while Arnab sported a brand new stylish Quechua backpack. The route we had charted was along the coast, away from the accident prone NH17 and the busy NH4. It involved five ferry crossings, and the first one was from the Gateway of India at 6.15 am on November 6 2013. DAY ONE, RAIGAD, 107 KMS, ELEVATION 608 METRES Pre-lunch: 8 am Mandwa to Murud Janjira 66 kms Notes

1) Ferry: In my opinion, the Bhauchadhakka-Revas ferry at 6 am would have been a better option. You avoid the crowded Mandwa Jetty; the sea route to Revas is better with dolphin sightings, and Bhauchadhakka is a more businesslike dock. Plus, it is cheaper. Cycle+passenger is Rs 70 vs Rs 170 at Gateway. 2) Food: Breakfast halt at Shri Sai Krupa on the Alibag Roha Road (not a very welcoming stall but good food and tea). Lunch was at Patil Khanaval in Murud. It is highly recommended by travelers but we found the fare over-rated. The Sol Kadi was watery and the thali was average. The only plus point was their spacious wadi where we could park the cycles and spread out the mats. 3) Altitude: Three mild ascents of about 50 metres on this leg: one before Kashid, one at Danda and one before Murud. Post lunch: Murud Janjira to Shrivardhan via Rajapuri Jetty and Diveagar, 40 kms Notes 1) Ferry: In hindsight, we could have taken the 2.30 ferry instead of 4.15 pm to reach Shrivardhan earlier. Rajapuri Jetty is historically significant as it was one of the ports used by the Satavahanas of Paithan, Aurangabad to trade goods with Syria. The launch (Rs 14 + Rs 10 for cycle) to Dighi was over crowded with cloth salesmen from Surat, bikers avoiding the land detour via Mhasala, and daytrippers. 2) Food and stay: We stayed at Palldhe at Shrivardhan (Rent Rs 600). It is a MTDC-approved homestay serving good vegetarian food (Phone 02147222506, 9011944623). We tried scouting for a bar serving non-vegetarian food but the process was laborious and the fare was ordinary. Most bars in Shrivardhan serve unappetizing Chinese food. The fish places (Prasad, etc) don’t serve liquor. When we got up, Santosh entertained us to some morning melodies (Raag Hamsadhwani, chiefly) on his bansuri. His daily morning riyaz was a perfect start to the day for all of us. 3) Route and Altitude: A mild 50m climb between Murud Janjira and Rajapuri, one 100m plus climb between Dighi and Divegar over rutty roads, two climbs, 75m and 50m, between Diveagar and Shrivardhan on the scenic coastal road past Kondvili Beach. At Diveagar, there are two roads to Shrivardhan — one the MSH4 and the other the more scenic coastal route. The latter is a couple of kilometers longer but better.

Launch to Dighi Photo Montage courtesy Sid DAY TWO, RAIGAD 18 KMS + RATNAGIRI 50 KMS, ELEVATION 575 METRES Prelunch: 745 am start from Shrivardhan to Kelshi via Bagmandla Ferry, 45 kms Notes

1) Ferry: There are two ferries from Bagmandla to Bankot: one is a launch that can take bikes and bicycles, while the larger ferry can take cars too. We took the former as it departed sooner. A little note about the ferry service: Shri Suvarnadurga Shipping runs three vital ferry services in Ratnagiri. The first connects Raigad (Bagmandala) and Ratnagiri (Vesavi) across the Savitri; the second crosses the mighty Vashishti River to link Dabhol and Dhopave near Guhagar; while the third chugs across Jaigad Creek to link Tavasal Jetty near Velneshwar and Jaigad near Ganpatipule. All three ferries take cars and ply late into the evening, beyond 9 pm. Besides this, there are smaller local boats that can take bicycles. Usually, they operate from competing jetties. 2) Food: We had a decent breakfast (omelette, misal) after crossing over at the jetty at Bankot. Lunch was a lovely gharguti affair at Siddhakala, Kelshi (9763706094, Hemangi Hemantkumar Vedpathak). You can arrive unannounced here and they will rustle up something delicious and hot for you. 3) Route and Altitude: From Shrivardhan, there are two roads to reach Bagmandla. The two paths spring up at a fork after Nigdi Village on MSH4. The right is a detour via Harihareshwar and is 24 kms long. My suspicion is that the elevations on this route are milder. The straight road via Kolmandla is steeper. You save 6 kms but you climb higher, almost 150 metres. The rise to Kolmandla is very picturesque through lush forests. The view from the crest of the Savitri River flowing into the Arabian Sea is a treat. The Bankot -Kelshi coastal shortcut is not ready. We had to take the detour via Gawalwadi, first heading east and then returning west to the coast. A huge elevation along the way, close to 200 metres, lasted nearly 5 kms. We rested on the summit of the hill at Gawalwadi under a tree, spreading our sleeping bags. Gawalwadi was also an introduction to Kokam Soda, a refresher that accompanied us through Ratnagiri.

View of Savitri River from Kolmandla. The Savitri River originates in the hills around Mahableshwar and flows down to the Arabian Sea between Harihareshwar and Bankot. Sir Arthur Mallet’s wife and daughter are supposed to have drowned here, giving rise to the legendary Arthur’s Seat at Mahabaleshwar, sitting where, Sir Arthur is said to have mourned his loss.

Mid-day rest at Gawalwadi between Bankot and Kelshi

Post lunch: Kelshi –Murud Harnai 23 kms Notes 1) Food and Stay: A quaint stay (Rent 1000) at Shree Sai Shraddha, M Saaldure, Post Asud, Dapoli 9421228661) near Murud Beach. The owner allowed us a large hall of over 600 square feet on the first floor. We carried all our cycles up and decided to lubricate it. Dinner at the neighbouring Jay Bhavani (Dilip Shinde 9209846465) was hearty and reasonable.

2) Route and Altitude: The route from Kelshi to Murud was scenic along the lovely Aade/ Padale coasts. Seagulls flocked the twin beaches and the sight was pretty. We had a couple of delays here, the scare of a lost mobile (mine) and a flat tire. But an old temple at Anjarle wrought a couple of miracles and our problems were soon behind us. After Anjarle, we had the option of going inland to Dapoli (a nasty elevation, we were told) or we could continue to Murud and ride along the beach upto Ladhgar/ Burondi in the absence of a road. We chose the latter. As it was late. we could not ride on the beach at night. We decided to halt at Murud.

Aade/ Padale Coast Photo courtesy Sid

DAY THREE, RATNAGIRI 70 KMS, ELEVATION 777 METRES Pre lunch: Murud to Guhagar, 47 kms Notes 1) Ferry: At Dabhol Jetty as at Bagmandla, there are two waterways across the mighty Vashishti River — a car-carrying ferry to Dhopave or a bike carrying launch to Veldur. We unknowingly took the former. Dhopave to Veldur is an additional three kms, a detour we could have avoided if we took the launch directly to Veldur. 2) Food: We did not stop for breakfast but just snacked at Dabhol Jetty. We made up with an excellent lunch at Vainatey’s Savarkar Bhojanalaya near the ST Bus Stop in Guhagar (9423373972, 02359240515). The vegetarian thali, the taak, and the dahi were outstanding. 3) Route and Altitude: Murud to Burondi is a beach ride, lasting 8 kilometres. The route added some variety to the journey.

The ride from Burondi to Dabhol is gruelling. Two elevations each of over 150 metres mocked at us before we reached Dabhol. The elevations may not have been as sharp as the rise to Gawalwadi but we were covering a lot of distance on rising plateaus. Bhavin called it slow poison. Just to give you an idea, the downhill from the summit here to Dabhol jetty lasted 6 kilometres!

Parshuram Statue near Burondi on the Murud Dabhol route

The rise from Dhopave to Guhagar via Veldur followed next, another 100 metres plus ascent that seemed endless in the afternoon heat. POST-LUNCH: Guhagar to Hedavi, 23 kms Notes 1) Route and Altitude: We had another grueling 150m climb as we headed 5 kms east to take the Guhagar Velneshwar MSH4. This was followed by a smooth cheerful drop to Palshet Beach. Locals told us that once the Guhagar-Palshet coastal route is ready, this route would be shorter. One more 100m climb brought us to Hedavi at a quarter past five. We could have pushed on to Tavasal and taken the late ferry to Jaigad and on to Ganpatipule but everyone decided against it. We were not sure about accommodation at Ganpatipule on a Diwali Holiday weekend. Our decision was most fortuitous. 2) Food and Stay: The accommodation at Hedavi was beyond our dreams. Mrs Shubhangi Gurav (Jiji, 9404175077) runs the only fruit stall in Ratnagiri. We loaded up on some sorely missed apples and bananas which had surprisingly eluded us for the past two days. During the transaction she let us on to Hedavi’s best-kept secret. She lives in a charming bungalow with a driveway and a lovely front lawn. She offered us the upper floor and an open terrace for the night at a generous Rs 500. Jiji is an elderly widow who has lived in Mumbai in the past. She stays alone in the bungalow and likes it there. Everyone in Hedavi knows her. The sweet lady got up early the next morning to serve us tea, a light English brew. Very classy. However, the dinner place Jiji recommended down the road from her house, Aai Bhavani, was terrible.

Jiji’s bungalow at Hedavi Photo courtesy Sid DAY FOUR, RATNAGIRI 94 KMS, 911 METRES Prelunch: Hedavi – Ratnagiri via Tavasal Jetty and Ganpatipule, 55 kms Notes 1) Ferry: We hoped to reach Tavasal Jetty for the second ferry at 730, but the route from Hedavi to the Jetty had three sharp ascents, each 75 metres high. We reached at around 8 and had no choice but to take the 830 ferry. To save time, we feasted on an excellent Poha breakfast at the jetty.

Bay near Tavasal Jetty 2) Route and Altitude: After the climbs to Tavasal, the Jaigad-Malgund stretch was a breeze despite a rise of over 100 metres near the creek. We rode on an undulating plateau that stretched into the horizon before hitting the coastal plains that featured an endless stretch of clean, lazy beaches.

Jaigad to Malgund Photo Courtesy Sid

The ride from Malgund to Ratnagiri past Ganpatipule has three climbs: one 100m and two fifties. This was achieved in blazing heat. Ganpatipule was crawling with cars on a Saturday morning and it was a wise decision not to have stayed here. Despite the climb, this stretch is spectacular as it offers sweeping views of Aarey and Vaarey beaches.

3) Food: We stopped for tea at a small homestay at Malgund (Kokan Swad, 8108232566) run by a charming Sharmila Jitendra Pawar. With the friendliest smile I have seen in a long while, she offered us lemon grass tea, biscuits and Kokam Sherbets.

Lunch was at Ratnagiri. The post-lunch halt was long as the heat had taken its toll. Hotel Prabha Garden Restaurant (Ravindra Surve 9423001300) offered us an excellent meal and they politely tolerated us using their lawns for R&R, both for the body and the cycles.

Post-lunch: Ratnagiri to Adivere via Pawas, 39 kms 1) Route and Altitude: Ratnagiri to Pawas has a 75 metres elevation and a ride on the plateau. Sid and Santosh were delayed at Ratnagiri to fix a broken spoke and brake pads respectively. Locals at Pawas advised stay at Adivere, a small temple town. One whispered with a wink that it had a bar too. Arnab and Sid suggested riding all night to Devgad. After much deliberation, we decided to put off our deliberations until Adivere. The 22 km ride to Adivere had another couple of 100m elevations and we reached around 8. 2) Food and stay: Adivere is a temple town with a popular Mahakali temple that houses Mahalakshmi and Maha Saraswati idols too. The nearby Bhakti Niwas opened its door to us and at Rs 200 apiece, we rented two rooms for the night. Food at the nearby Vrindavan Dhaba, strictly vegetarian, was reasonable and wholesome. DAY 5, RATNAGIRI 30 KMS, SINDHUDURG 99 KMS, ELEVATION 1110 METRES Pre-lunch: Adivere to Kunkeshwar, 67 kms, 500m altitude Notes 1) Route and Altitude: Thanks to a dawn start, we reached Jaitapur at daybreak. We manoeuvred two climbs, a 100 and a 50, without fuss. There was another 100m plus climb between Padel Canteen and Jamsande, and a few climbs before Kunkeshwar. At Katrachidevi Wadi, we considered the option of turning right to Sagwe Creek and hiring a boat to Vijaydurg Fort and riding onward to Devgad. But the locals warded us off, saying it wouldn’t save us much time unless we wanted to visit Vijaydurg. Between Katradevichi Wadi and Padel Canteen, we crossed over into Sindhudurg District. 2) Food and Stay: Tea at Jaitapur, Fresh Bhajiya and Vadapav at Katradevichiwadi, Sugarcane at Padel Canteen, Tea at Jamsande. Lunch was at Aswad, Kunkeshwar. Kunkeshwar is a small town with a large Shiva temple. The plan was to rest awhile at Kunkeshwar and launch an all-night assault on Goa. Santosh discovered the beautiful Sukhsagar Beach Resort (09422248999, 02364248999). SA Bondale, the owner, is a good host and runs the busy Aswad restaurant outside the temple. He let us have an AC room, our most luxurious stay of the trip, for five hours and charged us Rs 500. The hotel is at the crest of the hill behind the temple and enjoys a southward view of Kunkeshwar Beach.

-+ View of Kunkeshwar Beach from SukhSagar Resort Photo courtesy Sid Post lunch: Night ride from Kunkeshwar to Paath via Malvan, 62 kms Notes

1) Food and stay: We stopped for an excellent dinner at Hotel Prasad, Achra (Premanand Kavle, 9420261712). Arnab and Santosh enjoyed the bangda fry, while the rest of us tucked in the special vegetarian thali. We reached Paath Village and rested at a temple (Mauli Devi on the map). It was nearing 3 am and we decided to rest here till 5.30 am. 2) Route and Altitude: We left Kunkeshwar past 6 pm. The ride from Kunkeshwar to Malvan via Achra was gentle and leisurely, with four 75 metre climbs and flat plateaus. As in Ratnagiri, the roads in Sindhudurg are excellent. Along the way, Santosh took out his telescope and showed us the craters of the moon. After a brief rest at Malvan Chowk, we headed for Vengurla. Finding the road was a bit difficult as the entrance into MSH4 seemed more like a small alley than a major state highway. But the GPS and signage confirmed it. The 45km Malvan Vengurla stretch was the worst leg of the journey, an experience we are unlikely to forget soon. There were seven steep elevations, each close to 100 metres each. The first of them passed through a dense forest and all of us decided to get off and walk, especially after Sid and Arnab spotted a couple of foxes. It was nearing 1 am, and we did not want to take any chances. Two more climbs later, we threw in the towel. NOTE: If I do this route again, I will consider entering Malvan and riding past Tarkarli to Devbagh Beach. A ferry from here takes you to Bhogwe Beach or Nivli. There’s a road from Nivli to Mhapan. You can avoid the first three climbs. The caveat is that you need to do this in the day, when boats to Nivli operate. DAY SIX, SINDHUDURG, VENGURLA TO SATARDA 52 KMS, GOA, SATRDA TO PERNEM 4 KMS 1) Route and Altitude: The alarm and the priest’s morning bell rang simultaneously to wake us at 530. Four more grueling 80 metre climbs later, we tramped into Vengurla for breakfast. The 45 km stretch from Malvan to Vengurla, including a 5 km detour for the Sindhudurg International Airport, had taken us over 6 hours. We left Vengurla at around 10 and rode along the coast to Shiroda. This had another 100m rise. At Shiroda, we headed east to Malewad Naka, from where we headed south-east to Satarda Bridge. We crossed over into Pernem, Goa at around noon. The border check naka officials welcomed us cheerfully.

Maharashtra border Bhavin entering Goa DAY SEVEN We boarded the bus at Mapusa at 9 pm on the evening of November 12. We partially dismantled the cycles (front wheel and pedals), straightened the handles and packed it in jute. The AC sleeper coach (Naik Travels, 9 pm from Mapusa) tricked us. While booking, the agent had said the cycle luggage charge would be Rs 500. (Paolo Travels had quoted Rs 700, Gati Rs 1050, Kadamba refused to offer a quote but said they could take cycles). But the driver (Sathish) threw a fuss on the morning of November 7 and in the evening at the bus stop, the rate doubled to Rs 1000. We had no option but to succumb to the blackmail. The proprietor of Naik Travels, Mr Murad, came on the phone and said that no agent of his could have offered us a price Rs 500. The standard price for cycles was Rs 1500. Why cant they be transparent and print that on the ticket or prebook the cycle?