4 PLAN YOUR TRIP CONTENTS

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Contents

Dublin 34Trinity College ...........38Kilmainham Gaol ...... 40Dublin Castle ............ 42Chester Beatty Library ....................... 44National Museum of Ireland ................... 46Dublin Greenery ....... 50Guinness Storehouse................ 54Dublin Crawl Walking Tour ..............56Take a Walk on the North Side ...........58Sights ........................... 60Tours .............................66Shopping ......................67Entertainment ..............70Eating ............................ 72Drinking & Nightlife ...... 75Where to Stay ............... 81

Counties Meath & Louth 82Brú na Bóinne ........... 86Around Brú na Bóinne ..............92Drogheda ......................93

County Wicklow 94Powerscourt Estate ........................ 98Glendalough............ 100Enniskerry ..................106Blessington................. 107Rathdrum ...................108

County Galway 110Connemara Coastal Drive ........... 114Pub Crawl in Galway City .............. 116Clonmacnoise .......... 118Galway City ................. 120Kinvara ........................ 125Connemara ................. 125

Aran Islands 130Dún Aengus ..............134Inishmór ..................... 136Inishmaan ................... 137Inisheer ....................... 138

County Clare ....140Cliffs of Moher .........144Trad Music Sessions ...................146Ennis ........................... 148Bunratty ...................... 149Killaloe & Ballina ........150Kilkee ..........................150Loop Head ...................151Kilkee to Lahinch .........151The Burren ................. 153

The Antrim Coast 158Giant’s Causeway ....162Causeway Coast Way Walking Tour ....166Portrush ...................... 168Bushmills .................... 169Giant’s Causeway to Ballycastle .............. 170Ballycastle ...................172Glens of Antrim .......... 173Derry/Londonderry ....177

County Cork 182Gourmet Cork ..........186Blarney Castle .........188Cork City .....................190Around Cork City ....... 196

County Kerry 202Ring of Kerry Driving Tour............. 206Skellig Michael ....... 208Killarney National Park ...........210Killarney ...................... 214Caherciveen ............... 218Portmagee .................. 219Sneem ....................... 220Kenmare .................... 220Dingle Peninsula......... 221

Belfast 226Titanic Quarter ....... 230Murals of West Belfast ............ 232Sights ..........................234Tours ...........................237Shopping ....................238

Plan Your TripIreland’s Top 12......... 6Itineraries ................18If You Like… ............. 24Month by Month ..... 26Get Inspired ............ 29Family Travel ...........30Need to Know ......... 32

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CONTENTS PLAN YOUR TRIP 5

Entertainment ............238Eating ......................... 239Drinking & Nightlife ....242

Kilkenny City 246Kilkenny Castle....... 250Sights & Activities ......252Shopping ....................256Entertainment ............256Eating ..........................256Drinking & Nightlife ....257

County Tipperary 260Rock of Cashel ........ 264Cashel ........................ 268Cahir .......................... 269

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In FocusIreland Today ........ 274History .................. 276Food & Drink .........286The Pub ................290Irish Mythological Symbols ................292Literary Ireland .....294Traditional Music ....................298

Survival GuideDirectory A–Z ....... 301Transport ..............309Language ...............314Index ......................317Map Legend & Symbols Key ..... 322

Dublinp34

Counties Meathand Louth

p82

Aran Islandsp130

County Clarep140

Antrim Coastp158

County Kerryp202

Kilkenny Cityp246

County Corkp182

County Galwayp110

County Wicklowp94

Belfastp226

County Tipperaryp260

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12 PLAN YOUR TRIP IRELAND’S TOP 12

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Brú na BóinneLooking at once ancient and yet eerily futuris-tic, Newgrange’s immense, round, white-stone walls topped by a grass dome is one of the most extraordinary sights you’ll ever see. Part of the vast Neolithic necropolis Brú na Bóinne (p86; the Boyne Palace), it contains Ireland’s finest Stone Age passage tomb, predating the Egyptian pyra-mids by some six centuries. Most extraordinary of all is the tomb’s alignment with the sun at the time of the winter solstice.Right: Knowth burial mound (p88)

Cliffs of MoherBathed in the golden glow of the late-afternoon sun, the iconic Cliffs of Moher (p144) are but one of the splendours of County Clare. From a boat bobbing below, the towering stone faces have a jaw-dropping dramatic beauty that’s enlivened by scores of sea birds, including cute little puffins. Down south in Loop Head, pillars of rock towering above the sea house abandoned stone cottages whose very existence is inexplicable.

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IRELAND’S TOP 12 PLAN YOUR TRIP 13P

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Plan Your Trip10-Day Itinerary

Dublin to KillarneyIf you’ve only got 10 days and you must see the best of the country, you won’t have time to linger too long anywhere, but if you manage it correctly, you’ll leave with the top highlights in your memory – and on your memory card.

1 Dublin (p34) A one-day whistle-stop tour of the capital should include visits to Trinity College and the Book of Kells, the National Museum – Archaeology and the Guinness Store-house. Make sure you also sample a pint of Guinness in one of the city’s collection of superb pubs.I Dublin to Galway K 3 hours via M6; orJ 3½ hours from Dublin’s Busáras to Galway Bus Station; orL 3 hours from Dublin’s Heuston Station to Galway’s Ceannt Station.

2 Galway (p110) Plan on three nights based in Galway city, and spend the first full day soaking in the city’s aesthetic delights: a visit to the mu seum, a stroll along the river, and a meal followed by a drink (or four) and a live cé ilidh (session of traditional music and dancing) in a traditional old pub like Tig Có ilí .

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10-DAY ITINERARY PLAN YOUR TRIP 21

Above left: Dingle Peninsula (p221)

On the second day, take a drive to Clifden in Connemara, heading out via the coast, lunching in Clifden, and returning via Oughterard on lovely Lough Corrib.I Galway to Ennis K 4 hours to Ennis via Cliff s of Moher

3 Ennis (p148) Drive south from Galway via Kinvara and the coastal road around the bare limestone scarps of the Burren to visit the Cliffs of Moher, before staying overnight in the town of Ennis, where you can take in a trad music session in one of its many pubs.I Ennis to Dingle K 3 hours via M18, N21 and N86

4 Dingle (p221) Moving south again, cross into County Ker-ry and make for Dingle, on its eponymous peninsula. Explore the town on the after-

noon you arrive, and stay for two nights. The following morning take a harbour cruise to see Fungi the dolphin, and in the afternoon motor around Slea Head Drive with its stunning prehistoric monuments – not to mention the views!I Dingle to Killarney K One hour via N86

5 Killarney (p214) Allow for two nights based in Killarney. When you arrive from Dingle mid-morning, spend the rest of the day exploring Killar-ney National Park, making sure to take in Muckross House and a boat trip on Lough Leane. The following day, drive (or take a coach tour) around the scenic splendours of the famous Ring of Kerry (180km).

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Plan Your TripIf You Like...

Traditional PubsSéhán Ua Neáchtain One of Ireland’s best-known traditional pubs, located in Galway. (p124)John Mulligan’s The most famous of Dublin’s traditional pubs and a star of film and TV – where it usually plays itself. (p75)Tynan’s Bridge House A typical country pub, except it’s in the middle of Kilkenny city. (p258)Crown Liquor Saloon The most famous of Belfast’s Victorian pubs. (p242)King’s Head An ancient pub in the heart of Galway city, with parts dating to the 14th century. (p117)

Scenic DrivesRing of Kerry Probably Ireland’s most famous – and popular – scenic route. (p206)Connemara Coast An off-the-beaten-track meander along a gorgeous coastline. (p114)Slea Head Drive Historic sites abound on this tour of County Kerry’s most south-western point. (p224)Antrim Coast Northern Ireland’s best scenic route culminates with the Giant’s Causeway. (p158)

FestivalsKilkenny Arts Festival Medieval Kilkenny shows its artistic side. (p255)Cat Laughs Comedy Fes-tival Comics from around the world descend on Kilk-enny every year. (p255)Willie Clancy Irish Music Festival You can hear some of the best traditional music in the world at this annual do on the Clare coast. (p150)Galway Arts Festival The city goes arts- and fun-crazy for two weeks. (p122)Galway International Oyster Festival Locally produced oysters washed down with Guinness to a lively musical soundtrack. (p122)

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Plan Your TripNeed to Know

LanguageEnglish, Irish

VisasNot required by most citizens of Europe, Australia, New Zealand, USA and Canada.

MoneyThe currency in the Republic of Ireland is the euro (€). The is-land’s peculiar political history means that the six Ulster counties that make up Northern Ireland use the pound sterling (£). Although notes issued by North-ern Irish banks are legal tender through-out the UK, many businesses outside of Northern Ireland refuse to accept them and you’ll have to swap them in British banks.

Mobile PhonesPhones from most other countries work in Ire-land but attract roaming charges. Local SIM cards cost from €10; SIM and basic handsets cost around €40.

TimeWestern European Time (UTC/GMT November to March; plus one hour April to October).

When to Go

High Season (Jun–mid-Sep) Weather at its best.

Accommodation rates highest (especially in August).

Tourist peak in Dublin, Kerry, southern and western coasts.

Shoulder (Easter to May, mid-Sep to Oct) Weather often good, sun and rain in May; ‘Indian sum-

mers’ and often warm in September.

Summer crowds and accommodation rates drop off.

Low Season (Nov–Feb) Reduced opening hours from October to Easter; some

destinations close.

Cold and wet weather throughout the country; fog can reduce visibility.

Big city attractions operate as normal.

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GalwayGO May–Sep

CorkGO May–Sep

KerryGO May–Sep

DublinGO Any time; lots of indoor attractions

BelfastGO May–Sep

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