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532532

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Daniel Morris, Della Matheson, Jacob Joseph, Julia Butterworth, Lauren McAlee, Linda Mlynski, Malcolm Beck, Michael Fairbairn, Patricia Keith, Paul Thompson, Rafael Zamora Riesco, Ramavtar Garhwal, Stine Porsbjerg, Uwe Düffert, Will Pitcher.

WRITER THANKSIsabella NobleThanks to everyone in Tamil Nadu, Ashish and Rucha Gupta and Shoshana Treichel in Chennai, Bernard Dragon and Michel Adment in Chettinadu, Raja Balasubramanian in Trichy, Junaid Sait and team in Ooty, Vijay Kumar in Kodai, and Mr Krishnamurthi on the Kanyakumari–Puducherry Express. In Madhya Pradesh, huge thanks to Belinda Wright and Saptarishi Saigal. Thanks to the dream India co- author team, especially John Noble for laughs, tips and tiger safaris. At home, extra-special thanks to Jack, Andrew and Sarah.

Kevin RaubThanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub, Joe Bindloss, Sarina Singh, John Noble, Izzy Noble, Paul Harding and all my partners-in-crime at Lonely Planet. On the road, Anil Wadwa, Amit Arora, Dhanya Pilo, Sarita Hedge Roy, Tanvi Maidkaker, Roshnee Desai,

Greg Kroitzsh, Rishupreet Oberoi, Bindu Panicker, Aditya Dhanwatay, Ashok T Kadam, Abha Lambah, Karina Aggarwal and Pankil Shah.

Paul HardingThanks to all my dear friends in Goa and Kerala who helped out with company, advice and friend-ship – you all know who you are. Thanks also to new people, travellers and locals, I met on this trip. The biggest thanks goes to Hannah and my worldly young daughter Layla for accompanying me at least part of the way and putting up with my absences at other times.

Sarina SinghThank you to everyone who worked on this edition, with special thanks to Joe for being such a fab destination editor. Gratitude, also, to the many readers who took the time to send in their feedback and travel experiences – much appreciated indeed. Finally, warm thanks to my wise and wonderful parents who have always encouraged me to walk my own path.

Iain StewartThanks to Trent Holden and John Noble for tips and contacts, and Joe Bindloss and the Lonely Planet team in London and Melbourne. On the road I was helped by Jonty in Hyderabad, Poornima Dasharathi in Bengaluru, the teams at Golden Mist in Kodagu and Uramma in Hampi, Prakash in Vijapura, Oliver the yogi in Gokarna and Vijay in Vizag.

Behind the ScenesBehind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

533BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Illustration pp186–187 by Michael Weldon.Cover photograph: Fishing harbour near Kovalam, Kerala; Tuul & Bruno Morandi / SIME / 4Corners

THIS BOOKThis 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s South India & Kerala guidebook was curated by Isabella Noble and researched and written by Isabella Noble, Kevin Raub, Paul Harding, Sarina Singh and Iain Stewart. The previous edition was written by John Noble, Abigail Blasi, Paul Harding, Trent

Holden, Isabella Noble and Iain Stewart. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Joe BindlossProduct Editors Rachel Rawling, Catherine NaghtenCartographers Lonely Planet CartographyBook Designer Katherine Marsh

Assisting Editors Imogen Bannister, Bruce Evans, Victoria Harrison, Charlotte Orr, Gabrielle Stefanos Cover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Daniel Fahey, Gemma Graham, Indra Kilfoyle, Kate Mathews, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Martine Power, Kathryn Rowan, Tom Stainer

534

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccessible travel 505accommodation 494‑6, see

also individual locationsactivities, see also individual

activities, individual locations

Adivasis 448Agonda 153‑4AIDS 519Aihole 220‑1air travels

airlines 507‑8airports 15, 507‑8to/from south India 15,

507‑8 within south India 508

airports 15Ajanta 10, 95‑8, 165, 96,

164‑5Alappuzha (Alleppey) 282‑8,

284Alleppey 282‑8, 284altitude sickness 520‑1Amaravathi 247‑8Amaravati 245amoebic dysentery 519‑20Amrithanandamayi 282Andaman Islands 13, 40,

408‑26, 13climate 408highlights 409tourist information 410‑11travel seasons 408travel to/from 411travel within 411‑12

Andhra Pradesh 39, 225‑6, 226

climate 225food 225highlights 226travel seasons 225

Anegundi 217animals 484‑6, see also

crocodiles, elephants, leopards. lions, tigers, vultures

Anjuna 137‑40, 138aquariums

Varkala Aquarium 275‑6Araku Valley 252Arambol (Harmal) 146‑8archaeological sites 17architecture 11, 184, 481‑3area codes 504arts, see also dance, music,

painting 477‑80art galleries, see museumsAshoka, Emperor 434ashrams 32

Matha Amrithanandamayi Mission 282

Sivagiri Mutt 275Sri Aurobindo Ashram

360‑1, 11Vivekanandapuram 389

Assagao 140‑1Aswem 145ATMs 500Aurangabad 87‑91, 88Auroville 366‑7autorickshaws 511ayurveda 29, 279, 31

Alappuzha 283Bengaluru (Bangalore)

174Goa 119Kochi 302Kollam 280Kovalam 271, 274Mamallapuram 349Mandrem 146Mysuru (Mysore) 185Periyar Wildlife

Sanctuary 291Puducherry 362Thiruvananthapuram 259

Ayyappan 290, 454

BBabu Amichand Panalal

Adishwarji Jain Temple 53

backwaters 9, 258‑9, 266, 5, 8, 258‑9

Badami 219‑20Badshahi Ashurkhana 228Baga 133‑7, 134Bandipur National Park 194‑6Bangalore, see Bengalurubargaining 471, 500bathrooms 504bazaars, see markets &

bazaarsbeaches 17

Alleppey Beach 283Anjuna 137Aswem 145Chennai 331Cherai 311‑12Cola Beach 152Corbyn’s Cove 412Gokarna 207Havelock Island 417Kattoor 288Kerala 264‑5, 264‑5Khancola Beach 152Kollam 280Lighthouse 271Little Andaman 426Malvan 104Mamallapuram

(Mahabalipuram) 349Mandrem 145‑6Mangaluru (Mangalore)

203Marari 288Morjim 144Mumbai (Bombay) 53, 56Neil Island 421Palolem 154‑7, 155, 9Patnem 157‑8Payyambalam Beach 320Visakhapatnam 249

bedbugs 521

beer 70, 178, 466Bekal 322‑3Belur (Beluru) 200Benaulim 151‑3Bengaluru (Bangalore) 39,

169‑82, 170accommodation 174‑6activities 174drinking 178‑9entertainment 179food 176‑7nightlife 178‑9shopping 179‑80sights 172‑4tourist information 180‑1tours 174travel to/from 181travel within 182

betel nut 461Bhaja Caves 107Bhandardara 85‑7bhang lassi 500bharatanatyam 477Bheemunipatnam 251Bhongir 243‑4bicycle travel, see cyclingBidar 223‑4Bidar Fort 163, 223‑4, 163Biligiri Ranganna Temple

Wildlife Sanctuary 195birds 485‑6birdwatching

Backwoods Camp 126Hampi 212Mumbai (Bombay) 59Ranganathittu Bird

Sanctuary 194Thattekkad Bird

Sanctuary 297boat travel, see also

houseboatslocal transport 511 within south India 508,

509boat trips 19, 266‑7

Alappuzha 283Candolim 131

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

535IN

DEX B

‑ DGoa 123‑4Kerala backwaters 9,

258‑9, 266, 5, 8, 258‑9

Kodaikanal 392 Kochi 303Kollam 280Lakshadweep 323Ooty 403 Periyar Wildlife

Sanctuary 291Puducherry 362Valiyaparamba

backwaters 322Bollywood 73Bombay, see Mumbai

(Bombay)books, see also literature

architecture 481, 483art 478culture 447, 448, 450dance 477food 459, 461, 463, 464,

465, 466health 517history 431, 432, 436,

438, 441, 442, 443religion 454, 456, 457

Brahma 452Brahman 452British Residency

(Hyderabad) 229‑31bronzeware 470Buddhism 456‑7

Andhra Pradesh 246Buddhist temples

Ajanta 95‑8, 96Ellora 93‑4Global Pagoda 56‑7

budget 15, see also costsbuffalo racing 206bus travel 509‑10, 511business hours 15Bylakuppe 199

CCalangute 133‑7, 134Calicut 315‑17camping 495Candolim 131‑3canyoning 154car travel 508, 510‑11carbon‑monoxide

poisoning 520carpets 470‑1cash 500caste system 447‑8cathedrals, see churches &

cathedrals

Cauvery River 369caves & cave temples

10, 165Ajanta 10, 95‑8, 165, 96,

164‑5Aurangabad Caves 87‑8Bhaja Caves 107Borra Caves 252Cave Temples (Badami)

219‑20Edakkal Caves 317Ellora 10, 92‑5, 165, 93,

164, 164‑5Guntupalli 165Karla Caves 107Tiger Cave 346Trimurti Cave Temple

350cell phones 14, 503‑4Cellular Jail National

Memorial 412cemeteries

Dutch Cemetery 301chai 466‑7Chandor 150chapati 459‑60Chapora 141‑4, 142Chennai (Madras) 40,

324‑47, 325, 328‑9, 334‑5

accommodation 324activities 333climate 324courses 333drinking 340‑1entertainment 341events 333festivals 333food 337‑40history 327medical services 342‑3nightlife 340‑1orientation 342shopping 341sights 327‑33sleeping 333‑7temples 324tourist information 343tours 333travel seasons 324travel to/from 342‑4travel within 344‑6

Chennamangalam 312Cheras, kingdom of 257Chettiars 379Chettinadu 379‑81Chhatrapati Shivaji

Terminus 47, 50, 11Chidambaram 367‑9

Chidiya Tapu 416‑17children, travel with

35‑7, 53Chinese Fishing Nets 299Chinnar Wildlife

Sanctuary 298Chola 371Cholamandal Artists’

Village 346cholera 518Christianity 457churches & cathedrals

482‑3Armenian Church 333Basilica of Bom Jesus

128Church & Convent of St

Cajetan 129Church of Our Lady

of the Immaculate Conception 121, 123

Church of South India 315

Luz Church 333New Jerusalem Church

369Notre Dame des Anges

362Our Lady of Immaculate

Conception Cathedral 362

Our Lady of Lourdes Cathedral 313

Sacred Heart Basilica 362

San Thome Cathedral 332

Santa Cruz Basilica 301Sé Cathedral 128St Aloysius College

Chapel 202St Andrew’s Church 333St Francis Church 301St Mary’s Church 331St Stephen’s Church 401St Thomas’ Cathedral 52

chutney 462cinema, see filmsCinque Island 416cities 18‑19climate 14, 20‑3, 14 see

also individual regionsclimate change 488, 507Coffee House 260Coimbatore 395‑8, 396Colva 150‑1Connemara Tea Factory 290consulates 496‑8cooking courses 465

Kochi 302Munnar 295

Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary 291

Coonoor 398‑400costs 494courses

art 333cooking 137, 141, 154language 333, 498martial arts 259meditation 30yoga 30

credit cards 490, 500cricket 450crocodiles 346Cubbon Park 173culture 428‑30, 446‑51cultural programs

Puducherry 362Thiruvananthapuram

259Thrissur 314

curd 461currency 14customs regulations 496,

499cycling 508‑9

Kochi 303Kodaikanal 392Mamallapuram

(Mahabalipuram) 350

Dda Gama, Vasco 257, 315,

436, 437dabba‑wallahs 67dance 268‑9, 477dance classes 314Dandeli 218dangers, see safetyDaulatabad 91‑2, 162, 163death ceremonies 447deforestation 488dehydration 520dengue fever 518‑19dhal 460Dhanushkodi 387Dharmasthala 204‑5Diglipur 424‑5disabilities, travellers

with 505diving

Havelock Island 417‑19Kovalam 271Lakshadweep 323Long Island 424Malvan 104Neil Island 421Port Blair 412safety 520

536

IND

EX D‑ H

Diwali 23, 22dosas 460Dravida Nadu 331dress 447drinking 466‑7, see

also beer, individual locations

driving, see car traveldriving licences 512drugs 490, 499Dudhsagar Falls 121Dussehra festival 23,

185, 22

Eeconomy 428Ecotourism Centre 291Eid al‑Fitr 21electricity 496elephants 317, 487Ellora caves 10, 92‑5, 165,

93, 10, 164‑5Eluru 248embassies 496‑8emergencies 15encashment certificates

500environmental issues 487‑8

climate change 488, 507Kerala 287

Ernakulam 299, 303, 306etiquette

food 464religious 458

events, see festivals & events

exchange rates 15export restrictions 499

Ffair‑trade shopping 473festivals 20‑3

dance 479music 479

festivals & events 82, 119, 169

Andhra Pradesh 227Bastille Day 363Brahmotsavam 227,

252, 332Chariot Festivals 368Chennai Festival of

Music & Dance 333Chithirai Festival 384Cochin Carnival 303

Covelong Point Surf & Music Festival 347

Dussehra 23, 185, 22Ernakulathappan

Utsavam 303Kollam Pooram 281Kottamkulangara

Chamaya Vilakku 281Kumbh Mela 83Madras Week 333Mamallapuram Dance

Festival 350Mamallapuram

(Mahabalipuram) 350Muharram 227Natyanjali Dance Festival

368Nehru Trophy Boat

Race 283Onam 22, 257, 265Pandit Motiram‑Maniram

Sangeet Samaroh 234President’s Trophy Boat

Race 281Sankranti 227SulaFest 84Tamil Nadu 326Telangu 227Teppam (Float) Festival

384Thrissur Pooram 313Thyagaraja Aradhana

(music festival) 374Thypooya Maholsavam

313Uthralikavu Pooram 313Virupaksha Car

Festival 213Visakha Utsav 249

films 73, 444, 450, 478, 479‑80

Five Rathas 347‑9, 160‑1flu, bird 518food 459‑69, see also

individual foodsbooks 459, 461, 463,

464, 465, 466children and 37cooking courses 465etiquette 464glossary 467‑9Hyderabad specialities

238paratha 460, 2safety 490spiritual aspects 465street food 65, 463, 464tours 383

Fort Cochin 299, 300forts 17, 162‑3

architecture 483

Bangalore Fort 173Bidar Fort 163, 223‑4,

163Chandragiri Fort 254Citadel 221Dansborg 369Daulatabad 91‑2, 162,

163Fort Aguada 131Fort St George 331Gingee Fort 163, 359Golconda Fort 162, 231‑3,

12, 162‑3Janjira 101, 163Madikeri Fort 197Pratapgad Fort 115Raigad Fort 102Shaniwar Wada 109Shivneri Fort 114Sindhudurg Fort 104Sinhagad 114Sultan’s Battery 202Vellore Fort 355Warangal 244

fuel 513funerals 447

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesGandhi, Mahatma 443‑4Ganesh 453Ganpatipule 102‑3gardens

Cubbon Park 173Lalbagh Botanical

Gardens 173gas 513gay travellers 71, 499gem scams 490‑1geography 487ghats

Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat 53

Ramkund 83giardiasis 520Gingee (Senji) 359Gingee Fort 163Goa 9, 39, 117‑58, 118, 8‑9

climate 117highlights 118travel seasons 117

godesses 452‑4gods 452‑4Gokarna 207‑10Golconda Fort 162, 231‑3,

12, 162‑3Golgumbaz 221, 166Guntupalli 165, 247

HHalebid 200‑1Hampi 10, 150, 160, 210‑16,

212, 214, 10, 159, 161Hanuman 453Hassan 200Havelock Island 417‑20,

418, 13health 516‑21heatstroke 520henna painting 478hepatitis 519Hesaraghatta 182‑3hijras 451hiking

Kodai 394Kodaikanal 392Munnar 295Ooty 402Palolem 154

hill stations 19, 262, 270‑1, 270‑1, see also plantations

Hindu monuments 349Hindu sacred sites 160‑1,

160‑1Hindu temples 160‑1

1000‑Pillared Temple 244

Airavatesvara Temple 371Arunachaleshwar Temple

356‑7Birla Mandir

(Hyderabad) 231Brihadishwara Temple

161, 372Bull Temple 173Cave Temples (Badami)

219‑20Channakeshava Temple

200Ekambareshwara Temple

353Elephanta Island 57Ellora 94Five Rathas 347‑9, 160‑1Gangaikondacholapuram

Temple 371Hanuman Temple

(Anegundi) 217, 10Hoysaleswara Temple

200Iskcon Temple

(Bengaluru) 173‑4Iskcon Temple

(Mumbai) 56Jalakantesvara Temple

355Janardhana Temple 275Kailasanatha Temple

352‑3

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

537IN

DEX H

‑ KKailasa Temple 92‑3Kala Rama Temple 83Kamakshi Amman

Temple 353Kanaka Durga Temple 245Kapaleeshwarar Temple

332Krishna Temple 205Kumari Amman Temple

387‑8Kumbeshwara Temple

370Mahabaleshwara Temple

207Mahaganapati Temple

207Mahalaxmi Temple

53, 115Manjunatha Temple 204Meenakshi Amman

Temple 13, 160, 381‑2, 13, 161

Nageshwara Temple 369‑70

Nataraja Temple 368Parthasarathy Temple

331Ramappa Temple 244‑5Rock Fort Temple 376‑7Sarangapani Temple 370Shore Temple 347Shri Padmanabhaswamy

Temple 259Simhachalam Temple

249Sri Jambukeshwara

Temple 376Sri Kalahasteeswara

Temple 254Sri Manakula Vinayagar

Temple 361Sri Ranganathaswamy

Temple 375‑6Subrahmanya Temple

346Thirunelly Temple 317Trimbakeshwar

Temple 87Trimurti Cave Temple

350Undavalli Cave Temples

245Vadakkunathan

Kshetram Temple 313Vaikunta Perumal

Temple 353Varadaraja Perumal

Temple 353‑4Venkateshwara Temple

252‑3Vijayalaya Cholisvaram

380

Virupaksha Temple 160, 210, 161

Vittala Temple 210‑11, 159

Hinduism 452‑5historic sites 159‑66history 431‑45, see also

history booksBritish empire 440, 441Chola empire 434‑5independence 441‑3Indus Valley Civilisation

431internet resources 431Mauryan empire 432‑3Portuguese influence

437‑8Vijayanagar empire

435‑7history books 431, 432,

436, 438, 441, 442, 443hitching 511HIV 519hockey 451Holi 20holidays 502homespun cloth 474homestays 495Hosapete (Hospet) 218hostels 495hotels 495, 496houseboats 266, 266‑7Hubballi (Hubli) 218‑19Hyderabad 12, 227‑43, 229,

230, 232, 236, 239accommodation 234‑6drinking 240‑1entertainment 240‑1events 227festivals 227food 236‑40medical services 241nightlife 240‑1shopping 241sights 228‑34tourist information 241tours 234travel to/from 241‑2travel within 242‑3

Hyderabad State Massacre 445

IIgatpuri 87immigration 507Indian Coffee House 268indigenous peoples

Andamanese people 423Jarawa people 423

Nicobarese people 423Onge people 423Sentinelese people 423Shompen people 423

influenza 519insurance

health 516motorcycle 513travel 498

international transfers 501internet access 498internet resources 15,

481, 488health 517history 431

Islam 455‑6architecture 482

islandsPonnumthuruthu

(Golden) Island 276St Mary’s Island 206

itineraries 24‑6, 24, 25, 26

JJain temples 53, see also

caves & cave templesJainism 457Jalgaon 98Janapada Loka Folk Arts

Museum 183Janjira 163Japanese B encephalitis

519jeeps 514jewellery 471‑2Jog Falls 206

Kkabaddi 451Kakkabe 199Kalakshetra Foundation

332kalarippayat 268‑9, 308,

312Kalpetta 317Kamakshi 353Kanchipuram 352‑4, 353Kannada language 525‑6Kannur 265, 320‑2, 265,

269Kanyakumari (Cape

Comorin) 387‑90, 388Karaikkudi 379Karla Caves 107Karnataka 39, 167‑224,

168climate 167highlights 168travel seasons 167

Kathakali 268, 294, 302, 308, 312, 477, 263, 268‑9

Kochi 308kayaking

Alappuzha 283Palolem 154

Kerala 39, 255‑323, 256accommodation 263backwaters 9, 266‑7, 275,

9, 5, 8, 266‑7boat trips 266‑7climate 255festivals 257food 255highlights 256history 257travel seasons 255

Kerala Dinesh Beedi Co‑Operative 320

khadi 474Khotachiwadi 57kites 20Kochi (Cochin) 298‑312,

299, 300, 306activities 302courses 302drinking 307‑8entertainment 308‑9events 303festivals 303food 307‑8medical services 309‑10shopping 309sights 299‑302sleeping 303‑7tourist information 309tours 303travel to/from 310‑11travel within 310‑11

Kodagu (Coorg) Region 197‑9

Kodai 391‑5Kodaikanal (Kodai) 391‑5,

392Kolathiri rajas 320Kolhapur 114‑16Kollam (Quilon) 279‑82,

280Konkan Coast 101‑5Konkani language 526Kotagiri 400Kottayam 288‑9Kovalam 265, 271‑5, 347,

272Kozhikode (Calicut) 315‑17,

316Krishna 453Kuchipudi 477

538

IND

EX K‑ M

Kumarakom 289‑90Kumarakom Bird

Sanctuary 289Kumbakonam 369‑72, 370Kumily 290

Llakes

Ashtamudi 280Berijam Lake 391

Lakshadweep 323Lamb’s Rock 398land travel 507‑8languages 14, 498, 522‑31

courses 498food 467‑9

leatherwork 472leeches 521legal matters 498leopards

Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary 298

lesbian travellers 71, 499LGBTQ travellers 71, 499libraries

Institut Français de Pondichéry 361

Nilgiri Library 401lice 521lighthouses

Alleppey Lighthouse 283Thangassery Lighthouse

280Vizhinjam Lighthouse

271lions

Lion Safari Park 262literature 480, see

also booksLittle Andaman 425‑6Lonar Meteorite Crater 91Lonavla 106‑7Long Island 424lunar calendar 23

MMadikeri 197‑8Madras, see ChennaiMadras High Court 330‑1Madurai 160, 381‑6, 382magazines 497Mahabaleshwar 112Mahabharata 282, 454

Maharashtra 38, 80‑116, 81climate 80highlights 81travel seasons 80

Mahé 317Malabar 257malaria 517‑18Malayalam language 526Malayalis 257Malpe 206Malvan 103‑5Mamallapuram

(Mahabalipuram) 161, 347‑52, 349

Mamallapuram Hill 350Mananthavadi 317Mandrem 145‑6Mangaluru (Mangalore)

201‑4, 202mansions

Chettinadu 380maps 499‑500Mapusa 129‑31Marathi language 527Margao 148‑50markets & bazaars 17‑18,

470‑6Anjuna 140Arpora 136Baga 136Bengaluru 173Connemara Market 261Hyderabad 240Mattancherry 301Mumbai (Bombay) 74Mysuru (Mysore) 184SMSM Institute 261

marriage 446‑7masala dosa 460massage

Mamallapuram 349Varkala 277

Matheran 105‑6Matrimandir 367Mattancherry 299, 301,

302, 302mausoleums

Gumbaz 193Mayabunder 425measures 497medical services 517meditation 18, 30‑2

Chennai 333Eluru 248Goa 119Hyderabad 234Igatpuri 87Nagarjunakonda 248Pune 110

Sri Ramana Ashram 357Sri Seshadri Swamigal

Ashram 357Meenakshi Amman Temple

13, 160, 381‑2, 13, 161mehndi 478Melukote (Melkote) 194Mercara 197‑8metalware 472Mettupalayam 398misal pav 85mobile phones 14, 503‑4mohiniyattam 477money 14, 500‑1

currency 14exchange rates 15

monuments & statuesBibi‑qa‑Maqbara 87Buddha Statue on

Hussain Sagar 234Charminar 228Gandhi Memorial 389Gateway of India 46‑7Golgumbaz 221Ibrahim Rouza 222Kamaraj Memorial 389Thiruvalluvar Statue 389Vivekananda Memorial

388‑9Morjim 144‑5mosques

Haji Ali Dargah 53Mecca Masjid 228

motorcycle travel 508, 512hire 512insurance 513spare parts 513

Mt Arunachala 357Mudumalai Tiger Reserve

406‑7Mumbai (Bombay) 11, 38,

42‑79, 43, 46, 48‑9, 54‑5, 58, 2, 11

accommodation 60‑4activities 57‑9climate 42courses 59‑60drinking 69‑72entertainment 72‑3events 45festivals 45food 64‑9highlights 43nightlife 69‑72shopping 73‑5sights 45‑57spas 59tourist information 75‑6tours 60

travel seasons 42travel to/from 76‑8travel within 78‑9walking tour 61, 61

Munnar 270, 294‑8, 270Murudeshwar 208Murud‑Janjira 101‑2Murugan 453museums & galleries

Anthropological Museum 412

Arakkal Museum 320Archaeology Museum

(Thrissur) 313Birla Modern Art Gallery

231Book Building 333Car Museum 204Chhatrapati Shivaji

Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya 50‑1

Chitrali Museum 259Cholamandal Artists’

Village 346DAG Modern 52DakshinaChitra 346 Dr Bhau Daji Lad

Mumbai City Museum 52‑3

Fort Museum 331Gandhi Memorial

Museum 383Goa Chitra 151‑2Goa State Museum 123Government Museum

173Government Museum

(Chennai) 327, 330‑1HAL Aerospace Museum

& Heritage Centre 174HEH The Nizam’s

Museum 228Indo‑Portuguese

Museum 299‑300Janapada Loka Folk Arts

Museum 183Jayalakshmi Vilas

Mansion Museum Complex 184‑5

Jehangir Art Gallery 51Joshi’s Museum of

Miniature Railway 109Kalakshetra Craft Centre

332 Kalakriti Art Gallery 231Karnataka Chitrakala

Parishath 172Kerala Folklore Museum

302Krishnapuram Palace

Museum 282Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

539IN

DEX M

‑S Maritime Museum 299Mattancherry Palace 301Museum of Christian

Art 129Museum of Habitat 252Museum of History &

Heritage 257‑8Nagarjunakonda

Museum 248Napier Museum 257National Gallery of

Modern Art 172Puducherry Museum 361Pudukkottai Museum

380Puthe Maliga Palace

Museum 258‑9Rail Museum 184Railway Museum 377Raja Dinkar Kelkar

Museum 109RKK Memorial Museum

283Rukmini Devi Museum

332Sacred Heart Natural

Science Museum 391Salar Jung Museum 228Shree Chhatrapati Shahu

Museum 114State Museum

(Hyderabad) 229Submarine Museum 249Sudha Cars Museum

231Sullivan Memorial 400Swami Vivekananda

Wandering Monk Exhibition 389

Tea Museum 295Temple Art Museum

382‑3Vivekananda House 331Wayanad Heritage

Museum 317music 477‑8musical instruments 472‑3Mysore, see Mysuru

(Mysore)Mysuru (Mysore) 12,

183‑93, 188, 12, 18, 21Mysuru Palace 184

NNagarhole National Park

196Nagarjunakonda 248‑9Nagpur 98‑100Nasik 82‑5, 83National Gallery of Modern

Art 172

national parks, reserves & wildlife sanctuaries 19, 486‑7

Anamalai Tiger Reserve 397

Arunachala Animal Sanctuary 358

Bandipur National Park 194‑6

Biligiri Ranganna Temple Wildlife Sanctuary 195

Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary 298

Dandeli 218Daroji Sloth Bear

Sanctuary 216Eravikulam National

Park 298Kumarakom Bird

Sanctuary 289Lion Safari Park 262Malvan Marine

Sanctuary 104Muthanga 317Nagarhole National

Park 196 Neyyar Wildlife

Sanctuary 270Parambikulam Tiger

Reserve 294Periyar Wildlife

Sanctuary 270, 290, 292

Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary 194

Tadoba‑Andhari Tiger Reserve 11, 100, 11

Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary 297

Tholpetty 317Wayanad Wildlife

Sanctuary 270, 317Neil Island 421‑2newpapers 497Nilgiri Hills 401Nilgiris 399North Paravur 312notable buildings

Pudhu Mandapa 383

OOld Goa 127‑9, 128Om 455Ooty (Udhagamandalam)

12, 400‑6, 402opening hours 15overland travel 507‑8

Ppaan 461painting 473‑4, 478‑9

palaces 17, 166Aga Khan Palace 109architecture 483Bangalore Palace 173Chowmahalla Palace 228Daria Daulat Bagh 193Jaganmohan Palace 184Krishnapuram Palace

Museum 282Mattancherry Palace

301Mysuru Palace 184Padmanabhapuram

Palace 273, 391Royal Palace 372‑4Tirumalai Nayak Palace

383Palampet 244‑5Palolem 154‑7, 155Panaji 121‑7, 122papier‑mâché‑ware 476paragliding

Arambol 146Lonavla 106Varkala 277

paratha 460, 2parks & gardens

Botanical Gardens 401Bryant Park 391Mananchira Square 315Sim’s Park 398Theosophical Society

332Parsis 64Partition 442‑3passports 507Patnem 157‑8Pattadakal 220Payyanur 322Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary

270, 290, 292photography 501pilgrimage 448‑9pilgrim rest houses 496planning, see also

individual regionsbudgeting 14‑15calendar of events 20‑3children 36‑7internet resources 15itineraries 24‑6, 24,

25, 26medical checklist 516‑17repeat visitors 16south India basics 14‑15south India’s regions

38‑40train travel 27‑8travel seasons 14

plantations 129, 157, 291, 397, 398

plants 486police 499politics 331polo 451Poovar 275population 429Port Blair 412‑15, 413Portuguese influence 437‑8postal services 501‑2Pratapgad Fort 115public holidays 502Puducherry (Pondicherry)

11, 359‑66, 360, 11, 18Pune 107‑14, 108

QQutb Shahi Tombs 166

Rrabies 519radio 497railway retiring rooms 495Ramadan 21Ramayana 454‑5Rameswaram 386‑7Ramtek 100Rangat 422‑4reserves, see national

parks, reserves & wildlife sanctuaries

religion 452‑8books 454, 456, 457etiquette 458

religious sitesMahamaham Tank 370Sri Ramakrishna Math

332St Thomas Mount 333

rock climbingHampi 212

Ross Island 414roti 459‑60Roy, Arundhati 289ruins

Bavikonda 251Khwaja Mahmud Gawan

Madrasa 224Mahanavami‑diiba 211Thotlakonda 251Zenana Enclosure 211

SSabarimala 290safaris

Bandipur National Park 194‑5

540

IND

EX S‑W

safety 490‑1, 502‑3drugs 490food 490scams 490‑1taxis 493women travellers 492‑3

Sankaram 251scams 490‑1Sevagram 100‑1Shakti 453Shantimalai Handicrafts

Development Society 359

Shiva 453temples 371

Shivaji, Chhatrapati 438, 439

Shivaji Terminus 11Shivneri 114shopping 470‑6, see

also markets & bazaars

fair‑trade 473haggling 471

Sikkhism 456Sinhagad 114skin rashes 521sloth bears 216slums 52snorkelling

Diglipur 424, 425Havelock Island 417‑19Long Island 424Neil Island 421Wandoor 416

solo travellers 493Somnathpur 194spas 32spice farms 129, 291, see

also plantationsspices 459spirituality 452‑8sport 450‑1Sravanabelagola 201Sree Vallabha Temple 290Sri Kalahasti 254Sri Ramakrishna Math 332Srirangapatna

(Srirangapatnam) 193‑4stone carving 470street food 65, 463, 464St Thomas’ Pole 332Sullivan, John 400Sultanbatheri 317

surfing 347Agonda 153Arambol 147Covelong Point 347Gokarna 208Kovalam 271‑5Little Andaman 426Mamallapuram

(Mahabalipuram) 349Mulki 203Puducherry 362safety 520Varkala 277

synagoguesChennamangalam 312Keneseth Eliyahoo

Synagogue 51Pardesi Synagogue 302

TTadoba‑Andhari Tiger

Reserve 11, 100, 11Tagore, Rabindranath 480tailors 475Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai

45‑6, 62Tamil language 522‑5Tamil Nadu 12, 40,

324‑407, 325festivals 326highlights 325history 326‑7temples 356

Tamil Tigers 331taxes 494‑5, 501taxis 511‑12

safety 493Telangana 39, 225‑45, 226

climate 225food 225highlights 226travel seasons 225

telephone services 15, 503‑4

television 497Telugu language 528temples 17, 481, 496

Meenakshi Amman Temple 13

tempos 511terracotta ware 470textiles 474‑5thalis 462Thanjavur 161Thanjavur (Tanjore) 372‑5,

373Tharangambadi 369Thattekkad Bird

Sanctuary 297

theft 491theyyam 321theyyam 257, 268, 269Thiruvananthapuram

(Trivandrum) 257‑62, 266

climate 255travel seasons 255

Thrissur (Trichur) 312‑14, 313

ticks 521tigers 484, 485, 487, 11

Anamalai Tiger Reserve 397

Mudumalai Tiger Reserve 406

Parambikulam Tiger Reserve 294

Tadoba‑Andhari Tiger Reserve 11, 100, 11

Tiger Cave 346time 14, 504tipping 501Tirumala 252‑4Tirupati 252‑4Tiruvannamalai 356‑9toilets 504‑5tombs, shrines &

mausoleums 166Ellangudipatti 380Golgumbaz 166, 166Ibrahim Rouza 166Moula Ali Dargah 233‑4Paigah Tombs 233Qutb Shahi Tombs

166, 233Shiva Shrine 346Tiger Cave 346Venugopal Shrine 375

tourist information 505tours 508, 514

motorcycle 513touts 491train travel 27‑8, 514‑15

Araku Valley 252bookings 27‑8, 514classes 27fares 514, 515

transvestites 451traveller hangouts 19travellers cheques 501travel seasons 14travel to/from south India

507‑8travel within south India

508‑15trekking, see hikingTrichy (Tiruchirappalli)

375‑9, 376, 378

Trimbak 87Trivandrum, see

Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum)

tuberculosis 519tuk‑tuks 511turtles 424typhoid 519

UUdhagamandalam 400‑6,

402Udupi 205‑6

Vvacations 502vaccinations 516, 518Vagator 141‑4, 142Valparai 397Varkala 264, 265, 275‑9,

276, 264‑5vegetarian travellers 463Vellore 354‑5viewpoints

Doddabetta 401‑2Dolphin’s Nose 398Lamb’s Rock 398

Vijapura (Bijapur) 166, 221‑3, 222

Vijayawada 245‑7vikrams 511Virupaksha temple 210,

161Visakhapatnam 249‑51visas 14, 505‑6Vishnu 452‑3Vittala Temple 210‑11, 159volunteering 33‑4

Assagao 140‑1Goa 151Hyderabad 234Keystone Foundation

400Mapusa 130

vultures 486

Wwalking tours 383‑4

Bengaluru (Bangalore) 174

Chennai 333Hyderabad 234Mumbai (Bombay) 60,

61, 61Wandoor 415‑16Warangal 244‑5water resources 488water sports 19, 386

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

541IN

DEX W

‑ Zwaterfalls

Dudhsagar Falls 121Hampi Waterfalls 211Jog Falls 206

Wayanad Region 316‑19, 317

Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary 270, 317

weather 14, 20‑3, see also individual regions

websites 15, 481, 488weights 497Western Ghats 12, 390‑407whisky 183wildlife 484‑6, see also

individual species

wildlife sanctuaries, see national parks, reserves & wildlife sanctuaries

wine 86, 183, 466women in south India

449‑50women travellers 492

health 521woodcarving 475World Heritage Sites

Ajanta Caves 10, 95‑8, 165, 96, 164‑5

Ellora Caves 10, 92‑5, 93, 10, 164‑5

Yyoga 18, 30, 31

Arambol 146Bengaluru (Bangalore)

174Chennai 333Goa 119, 141Lonavla 106Madurai 383Mandrem 146Mumbai (Bombay) 57,

59‑60Mysuru (Mysore) 190Puducherry 362, 363Varkala 277

yoghurt 461

ZZamorin dynasty 315zoos

Madras Crocodile Bank 346

Mysuru Zoo 185Zoological Gardens

(Thruvananthpuram) 257

Zoroastrianism 457‑8

542

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Iain StewartKarnataka & Bengaluru, Telangana & Andhra Pradesh Iain trained as a journalist and worked as a reporter and restaurant critic in London in the 1990s. He started writing guidebooks in 1997 and has penned more than 60 titles for destinations as diverse as Ibiza and Cambodia. For Lonely Planet, Iain’s worked on books in-cluding Mexico, Indonesia, Croatia, Vietnam, India, Sri Lanka and Central America. Other passions include tennis, scuba and freediving. He’ll consider working an-

ywhere there’s a palm tree or two and a beach of a generally sandy persuasion. Home is Brighton, UK, within firing range of the city’s south-facing horizon. He tweets at @iaintravel.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541539th edition – October 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 148 9© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSIsabella NobleTamil Nadu & Chennai English-Australian on paper but Spanish at heart, Isabella has been wandering the globe since her first round-the-world trip as a one-year-old. Having grown up in a whitewashed Andalucian village, she is a Spain special-ist travel journalist, but also writes extensively about India, Thailand, the UK and beyond for Lonely Planet, the Daily Telegraph and others. Isabella has co-written Lonely Planet guides to Spain and Andalucía, and is a Daily Telegraph Spain

expert. She has also contributed to Lonely Planet India, South India, Thailand, Thailand’s Islands & Beaches, Southeast Asia on a Shoestring and Great Britain, and authored Pocket Phuket. Find Isabella on Twitter and Instagram (@isabellamnoble).

Kevin RaubMumbai (Bombay), Maharashtra Atlanta native Kevin Raub started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has written more than 40 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Raub also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed

hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on Twitter and Insta-gram (@RaubOnTheRoad).

Paul HardingGoa, Kerala As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and offbeat places and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Iceland, Belize, Vanuatu, Iran, Indonesia, New Zealand, Finland and – his home patch – Australia.

Sarina SinghAndaman Islands After finishing a business degree in her hometown of Melbourne, Sarina went to India to pursue a corporate traineeship before working as a journalist. After five years she returned to Australia and completed postgrad-uate journalism qualifications before authoring Lonely Planet’s first edition of Rajasthan. Apart from numerous Lonely Planet books, she has written for a raft of

other publications and has been a scriptwriter and expert commentator. Sarina is also the author of Polo in India as well as India: Essential Encounters. Her award-nominated documentary premiered at the prestigious Melbourne International Film Festival before screening internationally.

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