behind the scenes - lonely planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/romania-bulgaria-7-index.pdf ·...

20
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments repro- duced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. 494 OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Adrian Ineichen, Alex Harford, Andrew Coker, Ben Fugill, Charley Harris, Chiara Motta, Dimitar Vlaevsky, Felice Oxborrow, Flavius Streianu, Gra- ham Meale, Jaap van Beelen, Jim Blackstone, Jim Van Leemput, Joaquín Tabales, John McK- ellar, John Roxburgh, Katarzyna Piriankov, Kay Martin, Marco Nawijn, Marinela Stere, Mayte Penelas, Melanie Luangsay, Mihai Bursesc, Mike Black, Olav van der Stoep, Peter Phillips, Richard Mortel, Raquel Buades, Richard Snarsky, Sarah Foxwell, Scott Allsop, Sonya Jetcheva, Thomas & Sona Hoisington, Tom Flannaghan WRITER THANKS Mark Baker First, thanks to my co-writers and editors at Lonely Planet for their help in this project. A big thanks, too, to Lonely Planet readers and website users who sent in suggestions, complaints and compliments on previous editions. On the ground in Romania, I’d like to thank friends Florina Presadă, Ioana Lupea, Ana Raluca, Ruxandra Predescu, Dalia Tabacaru, Ştefania Oprina, Crina Becheanu, Elena Loghin, Diana Podasca, Narcisa Suruianu, Mirela Petra, Lori Alexe, Paula Gusetu Nimigean, and her husband Costi. In Bulgaria, my gratitude goes out to Tatyana Spasova, Martina Ivanova Staneva-Antonova and Dani Nencheva, among many others. Steve Fallon Mulțumesc foarte mult to those who provided assistance, ideas and/or hospitality along the way in Maramureş, Crişana and the Banat, including: Dan Carpov and Rada Pavel in Baia Mare; Ion Hotea, who pulled me out of a ditch (literally) in Mănăsteria; and Duncan and Penny Ridgley in Breb. Thanks, too, to co-authors Mark Baker and Anita Isalska for help and ideas along the way. As always, my efforts here are dedicated to my partner, Michael Rothschild. Anita Isalska Big thanks to the following for fantastic Bulgaria tips: Denitsa Leshteva and Plovdiv’s helpful tourism team; Hristo Giulev; Sophia Bozhkova and the VT tourism crew; Mila Todorova; Samokov TIC; Ivan Dzhamulov; and especially my insightful co-author Mark Baker. Thanks to my intrepid parents, who met me at Rila Monastery and gave me fresh eyes on this extraordi- nary place. To those who offered their time during my research in Transylvania, including Andrea Rost, Sana Nicolau, Cristina Cofaru, Cristiana Fica, Mark Tudose, Crina Prida, Colin Shaw, Karla Zimmerman and my fellow writer Steve Fallon. Love to Normal Matt, who enhanced my time in Sibiu and cheered me through the write-up. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Cover photograph: Aerial view of Old Town, Brasov, Transylvania, Romania, Dziewul/Shutterstock © Behind the Scenes ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Page 1: Behind the Scenes - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/romania-bulgaria-7-index.pdf · Ştefania Oprina, Crina Becheanu, Elena Loghin, Diana Podasca, Narcisa Suruianu,

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments repro-duced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

494

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Adrian Ineichen, Alex Harford, Andrew Coker, Ben Fugill, Charley Harris, Chiara Motta, Dimitar Vlaevsky, Felice Oxborrow, Flavius Streianu, Gra-ham Meale, Jaap van Beelen, Jim Blackstone, Jim Van Leemput, Joaquín Tabales, John McK-ellar, John Roxburgh, Katarzyna Piriankov, Kay Martin, Marco Nawijn, Marinela Stere, Mayte Penelas, Melanie Luangsay, Mihai Bursesc, Mike Black, Olav van der Stoep, Peter Phillips, Richard Mortel, Raquel Buades, Richard Snarsky, Sarah Foxwell, Scott Allsop, Sonya Jetcheva, Thomas & Sona Hoisington, Tom Flannaghan

WRITER THANKSMark BakerFirst, thanks to my co-writers and editors at Lonely Planet for their help in this project. A big thanks, too, to Lonely Planet readers and website users who sent in suggestions, complaints and compliments on previous editions. On the ground in Romania, I’d like to thank friends Florina Presadă, Ioana Lupea, Ana Raluca, Ruxandra Predescu, Dalia Tabacaru, Ştefania Oprina, Crina Becheanu, Elena Loghin, Diana Podasca, Narcisa Suruianu, Mirela Petra, Lori Alexe, Paula Gusetu Nimigean, and her husband Costi. In Bulgaria, my gratitude goes out to Tatyana Spasova, Martina Ivanova Staneva-Antonova and Dani Nencheva, among many others.

Steve FallonMulțumesc foarte mult to those who provided assistance, ideas and/or hospitality along the way in Maramureş, Crişana and the Banat, including: Dan Carpov and Rada Pavel in Baia Mare; Ion Hotea, who pulled me out of a ditch (literally) in Mănăsteria; and Duncan and Penny Ridgley in Breb. Thanks, too, to co-authors Mark Baker and Anita Isalska for help and ideas along the way. As always, my efforts here are dedicated to my partner, Michael Rothschild.

Anita IsalskaBig thanks to the following for fantastic Bulgaria tips: Denitsa Leshteva and Plovdiv’s helpful tourism team; Hristo Giulev; Sophia Bozhkova and the VT tourism crew; Mila Todorova; Samokov TIC; Ivan Dzhamulov; and especially my insightful co-author Mark Baker. Thanks to my intrepid parents, who met me at Rila Monastery and gave me fresh eyes on this extraordi-nary place. To those who offered their time during my research in Transylvania, including Andrea Rost, Sana Nicolau, Cristina Cofaru, Cristiana Fica, Mark Tudose, Crina Prida, Colin Shaw, Karla Zimmerman and my fellow writer Steve Fallon. Love to Normal Matt, who enhanced my time in Sibiu and cheered me through the write-up.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Aerial view of Old Town, Brasov, Transylvania, Romania, Dziewul/Shutterstock ©

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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495BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

THIS BOOKThis 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s Romania & Bulgaria guidebook was researched and written by Mark Baker, Steve Fallon and Anita Isalska. The previous edition was written by Mark Baker, Chris Deliso, Richard Waters and Richard Watkins. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Brana VladisavljevicProduct Editor Vicky SmithSenior Cartographer David KempBook Designer Katherine MarshAssisting Editors Andrew Bain, Imogen Bannister, Nigel Chin, Bruce Evans, Victoria Harrison, Rosie Nicholson,

Susan Paterson, Saralinda TurnerAssisting Cartographer Alison LyallCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Jenna Myers, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Tracy Whitmey, Amanda Williamson

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496

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

ABBREVIATIONS (B) – Bulgaria (R) – Romania

SYMBOLS1876 April Uprising 452

Aaccessible travel

Bulgaria 480Romania 265

accommodationBlack Sea Coast (B) 400Bulgaria 474-5language 273-4, 489Romania 258-9

activities, see also individual activities

Bulgaria 456-9Romania 244-8

air travelto/from Bulgaria 482-3to/from Romania 266-7within Bulgaria 484within Romania 269

airportsBulgaria 482Romania 266

Alba Iulia (R) 129-32, 130Albena (B) 424Aleksander Nevski Cathedral

(B) 302-3animals, see also individual

speciesBulgaria 460

Apollonia Arts Festival (B) 290, 405

April Uprising 452Apuseni Mountains (R)

145-7Apuseni Nature Park (R)

161, 163

aquariumsCentral Eco-Tourism

Museum of the Danube Delta (R) 215

Constanţa Aquarium (R) 221

Arad (R) 162-5, 164Arbanasi (B) 375Arbore Monastery (R)

204-5archaeological sites, see

also fortresses, Roman sites, ruins, tombs

Madara Archaeological Reserve (B) 364

Sarmizegetusa Regia (R) 135

Thracian Tomb of Sveshtari (B) 14, 434, 14

architecturemedieval (R) 24National Revival (B)

346, 385Saxon (R) 15, 104-6, 15wooden churches 176wooden gateways 176

Arieşeni (R) 163art centres, see cultural

centres art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts

Romania 249-51Bulgaria 462-5

ATMsBulgaria 478Romania 262

BBachkovo Monastery (B)

353baggage 275Baia Mare (R) 168-71,

169Băile Felix (R) 161-2Băile Tuşnad (R) 120Balchik (B) 424-6, 425

Balkan Range, see Stara Planina

Banat (R) 32, 149-57accommodation 149climate 149food 149highlights 150, 150history 151travel seasons 149

Bansko (B) 332-6, 333Bârgău Valley (R) 147bars 274Bârsana (R) 179-80bathrooms 480beaches

Amphora Beach (R) 227Black Sea Coast (B) 9, 9Bulgaria 286, 397Burgas (B) 399Crush (R) 225Mamaia (R) 225Plaja de Carta (R) 227Primorsko (B) 408safety 399Sfântu Gheorghe Beach

(R) 219Sozopol (B) 404-5Sulina Beach (R) 217Sunny Beach

(Slânchev Bryag) 412bears 248, 461beer

Bulgaria 472 Romania 256

Belogradchik (B) 431-3Belogradchik rock

formations 432Berbeşti (R) 175Bicaz Gorges (R) 197Biertan (R) 105birdwatching

Bulgaria 458Burgas 401Lake Srebârna (B) 440Romania 247-8Tulcea (R) 215

Bistriţa (R) 147-8Black Sea Coast (B) 9, 294,

395-426, 9accommodation 395climate 395food 395highlights 396history 397travel seasons 395

Black Sea Coast (R) 32, 220-8, 221

accommodation 211climate 211food 211highlights 212, 212history 213travel seasons 211

Black Sea Littoral (R) 220-8

Blagoevgrad (B) 329-32boat travel

Bulgaria 484to/from Romania 269within Romania 269

boat trips 407boating

Mamaia (R) 226Sfântu Gheorghe (R) 219Sulina (R) 217Tulcea (R) 215-16

booksBulgaria 444Romania 230, 233, 237,

238, 239, 242, 254-6border crossings 267

Bulgaria 482, 483Romania 267Ukraine 175

Boris I 449Borovets (B) 327-9Borşa (R) 182Borşa Complex (R) 182Botiza (R) 180Boyana (B) 317-18Bran (R) 93-4Bran Castle (R) 10, 293, 11

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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497IN

DEX B

-C Braşov (R) 85-92, 86

accommodation 89-90activities 88-9drinking 91entertainment 91food 90-1history 85nightlife 91shopping 91sights 85, 87-8tourist information 91travel to/from 91-2travel within 92

Breb (R) 177-8breweries, see

also distilleriesCsiki Sör Brewery Tour

(R) 120World of Zagorka

(B) 391bridges

Bridge of Lies (R) 111Danube Bridge (B) 435

Bucegi Mountains (R) 82-3, 84, 83

Bucharest (R) 31, 34-57, 40-1, 46, 8-9

accommodation 34, 49-50

activities 47-8climate 34drinking 51-2entertainment 52-4festivals & events 48food 34, 50-1highlights 36-7, 36-7history 35itineraries 39nightlife 51-2shopping 54sights 35, 38-9, 42-5, 47tourist information 54-5tours 48travel seasons 34travel to/from 55-7travel within 57

Bucharest region 58-9, 59Bucovina (R) 10, 32, 183-5,

200-10, 207, 11accommodation 183climate 183food 183highlights 184, 184history 185monasteries 204-9, 207travel seasons 183

Bucovina Monasteries (R) 204-9, 207

Budeşti (R) 176-7

budgetingBulgaria 285Romania 23

Bulgaria 279-493, 282-3accessible travel 480accommodation 474-5activities 288-90arts 462-5ATMS 478books 444budget 285cell phones 284children, travelling

with 475climate 284, 288-90, 284consulates 476credit cards 478culture 444-5currency 284customs regulations 475discount cards 475-6drinks 471-2, 476economy 444-5electricity 476embassies 476emergencies 285etiquette 480events 288-90exchange rates 285festivals 288-90food 470-2gay travellers 476GLBTI travellers 476health 476-7highlights 6-16, 6-7, 8-16history 446-55insurance 476-7internet resources 285,

477, 479itineraries 291-2, 291,

292language 284, 489-93legal matters 477lesbian travellers 476media 479medical services 476-7mobile phones 284money 284music 462-5opening hours 478politics 444-5people 466-7phonecards 480politics 444-5population 445, 466-7postal services 479public holidays 479religion 467

scams 478, 487smoking 479telephone services 284,

479-80time 480tipping 478tourist information 480tours 484travel seasons 284, 284travel to/from 267, 285,

482-4travel within 484-8vacations 479visas 284, 480-1volunteering 481weather 284, 288-90weights & measures 479wildlife 459-61wine 468-9work 481

Burgas (B) 397-403, 398bus travel

to/from Bulgaria 350, 483

to/from Romania 267-8within Bulgaria 484-5within Romania 269-70

business hoursBulgaria 478Romania 263

CCâmpulung Moldovenesc

(R) 210car travel

language 277, 492road distance chart

(B) 486road distance chart

(R) 271road rules 270, 487to/from Bulgaria 483to/from Romania 268within Bulgaria 485-7within Romania 270

Carpathians (R) 15, 19, 15, 19

castles & palaces 24Alba Carolina Citadel

(R) 131Bánffy Castle (R) 146Bran Castle (R) 10,

93, 11Corvin Castle (R) 134Cotroceni Palace (R) 47Deva Citadel (R) 132-3Făgăraş Citadel (R) 107Lăzarea Castle (R) 122Mikó Castle (R) 120-1

Neamţ Citadel (R) 193Oradea Fortress (R) 159Peleş Castle (R) 77, 80Pelişor Palace (R) 80-1Poienari Citadel (R) 69 Râşnov Fortress (R) 95Royal Citadel (R) 200Shumen Fortress (B)

362Sighişoara Citadel

(R) 99Summer Palace of

Queen Marie & Botani-cal Gardens (B) 425

Timișoara Fortress (R) 153

Tsarevets Fortress (B) 365-6, 366

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

caves 246Apuseni Nature Park

(R) 161 Bears Cave (R) 161Daniel the Hermit’s Cave

(R) 206Golubovitsa Cave (B)

356Ice Cave (R) 161Ledenika Cave (B)

429-30Magura Cave (B) 432Meziad Cave (R) 161Orlova Chuka Cave

(B) 439Șinca Veche (R) 108Smolyan (B) 356Trigrad Cave (B) 358Uhlovitsa Cave (B) 356Yagodina Cave (B) 358

Ceahlău National Park (R) 198-200, 199

Ceauşescu, Elena 45, 238-40

Ceauşescu, Nicolae 45, 238-40

cell phonesBulgaria 284Romania 22, 264

cemeteriesBellu Cemetery (R)

44, 47Ghencea Civil Cemetery

(R) 45Hungarian Cemetery

(R) 137-8Jewish Cemetery, Iaşi

(R) 188Jewish Cemetery,

Sighetu Marmaţiei (R) 172

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498

IND

EX C-D

cemeteries contMartyr-Heroes of the

December 1989 Revolution Cemetery (R) 47

Merry Cemetery (R) 178Sephardic Jewish

Cemetery (R) 44Sulina Cemetery (R) 218

Central Mountains (B) 294, 359-94

accommodation 359climate 359food 359highlights 360, 360history 361travel seasons 359

chalga 465Chepelare (B) 352-4children, travelling with

Bucharest (R) 48Bulgaria 475Romania 259Sofia (B) 312

Chiprovtsi (B) 430-1churches & cathedrals, see

also monasteriesAleksander Nevski

Cathedral (B) 302-3Bârsana Church (R) 179Black Church (R) 85Boyana Church (B) 317Bulgaria 286Cathedral of Saint

Vissarion (B) 356Cathedral of St John the

Baptist (R) 62Cathedral of the

Assumption of the Virgin (B) 417, 279

Chapel of Jesus (R) 123

Church of Rozhdestvo Bogorodichno (B) 325

Church of Sveta Bogoroditsa (B) 342

Church of Sveti Arhangeli Mihail (B) 377

Church of Sveti Arhangeli Mikhail & Gavril (B) 375

Church of Sveti Dimitâr (B) 367

Church of Sveti Konstantin & Elena (B) 342

Church of Sveti Petar & Pavel (B) 367

Church of the Dominican Monastery (R) 101

Church of the Icon (R) 47

Church of the Three Hierarchs (R) 189

Church of Vavedenie Presvetiya Bogoroditsi (B) 330

Church on the Hill (R) 101

Creţulescu Church (R) 42

Evangelical Church (R) 147

Fortified Church, Biertan (R) 105

Fortified Church, Cisnădie (R) 116

Fortified Church, Viscri (R) 106

Fortress Church (R) 127Forty Martyrs Church

(B) 367Hărman Fortified Church

(R) 97Hungarian Reformed

Church (R) 137Maramureş (R) 176,

13, 13Mirăuţi Church (R) 200Moldavian Metropolitan

Cathedral (R) 188Nativity Church (B) 375Nativity Memorial

Church (B) 390Nativity of St John

the Baptist Church (R) 196

New St George’s Church (R) 38

Old Princely Court Church (R) 38

Orthodox Cathedral (R) 127

Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral (R) 154

Patriarchal Cathedral (R) 43

Prejmer Fortified Church (R) 97

Princely Church (R) 67Princely Court (R) 69Reformed Church

(R) 154Roman Catholic

Cathed ral, Oradea (R) 159

Roman Catholic Cathedral, Timișoara (R) 153

Roman Catholic Church (R) 127

Serbian Orthodox Church (R) 153

Sf Ioan Botezătorul Church (R) 94

St Dumitru’s Church (R) 202

St Mary’s Evangelical Church (R) 110-11

St Michael’s Church (R) 137

St Nicholas’ Cathedral (R) 88

Stavropoleos Church (R) 38

Sveta Marina Church (B) 342

Sveta Nedelya Cathedral (B) 298

Sveta Petka Samardzhiiska Church (B) 298

Sveta Sofia Church (B) 303

Sveta Troitsa Church (B) 333

Sveti Georgi Rotunda (B) 299

Sveti Nikolai Russian Church (B) 299

Sveti Sedmochislenitsi Church (B) 304

Sveti Stefan Church (B) 413

Târgovişte Cathedral (R) 65

Târgu Church (R) 65cinema, see filmsCisnădie (R) 116city walls 112climate

Bulgaria 284, 284Romania 22, 22

Cluj-Napoca (R) 14, 136-43, 138, 14

accommodation 140activities 139drinking 141-2entertainment 142festivals & events 139food 140-1nightlife 141-2sights 136-9tourist information 142travel to/from 142

communism 454Constanţa (R) 220-5, 222

accommodation 223activities 223drinking 224

entertainment 225food 224nightlife 224sights 220-3tourist information 225travel to/from 225

consulates, see embassies & consulates

Cotnari (R) 191courses

Bulgarian language 305cooking (R) 255diving 405, 409woodcarving 378

Covasna (Hungary) 119Craiova (R) 70-3, 71credit cards 275

Bulgaria 478Romania 262

Crişana (R) 32, 149-51, 157-65

accommodation 149climate 149food 149highlights 150, 150history 151

cultural centresARCUB (R) 53BârsanArt (R) 179Fabrica de Pensule (R)

138-9culture

Bulgaria 444-5Romania 230-1, 252-3

currencyBulgaria 284, 478Romania 22, 262

Curtea de Argeş (R) 68-70

customs regulationsBulgaria 475Romania 259

cyclingBulgaria 458-9, 484language 492Romania 245, 269Varna (B) 419

Ddangers, see safetyDanube (B) 294Danube Bridge 435Danube Delta (R) 13, 32,

211-20, 213, 13accommodation 211climate 211food 211highlights 212, 212

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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499IN

DEX D

-H history 213travel seasons 211

Danube River region (B) 427-42, 428

accommodation 427climate 427food 427highlights 428, 428history 429travel seasons 427

Deva (R) 132-4, 133Devin (B) 357-8disabilities, travellers with

Bulgaria 480Romania 265

discount cardsBulgaria 475Romania 259

distilleries, see also brew-eries

Enio Bonchev Rose Distillery (B) 388

divingGolden Sands (B) 423Varna (B) 420

Dracula 242-3, see also Ţepeş, Vlad

Dragomirna Monastery (R) 206

drinkinglanguage (B) 490language (R) 274

drinksbeer 256ţuică 255-6rakia 472 wine 12, 67, 191, 256, 13

driving, see car traveldriving tours 207, 207Dryanovo Monastery

(B) 376

Eeconomy

Bulgaria 444-5Romania 230-1

electricityBulgaria 476Romania 260

embassies & consulatesBulgaria 476Romania 260

emergenciesBulgaria 285language 275, 490Romania 23

endangered species 461Etâr (B) 379-80

ethnic minoritiesBulgaria 466-7Romania 252-3

etiquetteBulgaria 285, 480Romania 262

events, see festivals & events

exchange ratesBulgaria 285Romania 23

FFăgăraş (R) 107Făgăraş Mountains (R)

106-9, 107ferry travel

Bulgaria 441Romania 216, 267

festivals & eventsApollonia Arts Festival

(B) 290, 405Festival of Medieval Arts

& Crafts (R) 27, 102George Enescu Music

Festival (R) 28, 48, 27

Goat Milk Festival (B) 290

Golden Grapes Festival (B) 288

International Jazz Festival (B) 290

International Theatre Festival (R) 27

Plovdiv Night of the Galleries (B) 290

Rose Festival (B) 290Spirit of Burgas Festival

(B) 290Transilvania

International Film Festival (R) 27, 139

Untold Festival (R) 28, 139, 27

Varna Summer International Music Festival (B) 290, 420

Young Wine Parade (B) 290

filmsBulgaria 444Romania 230, 243, 251

fishing 215folk culture

Bulgaria 462-5Romania 24, 249-51

foodBulgaria 470-2, 477cheese 471

Easter specialities 289, 289

language 274, 490mehanas 472rakia 472Romania 261shopska 472

football 53fortresses 24, see

also castles & palaces, ruins

Arad Fortress (R) 162 Baba Vida Fortress

(B) 433Bulgaria 286Cherven Fortress (B)

439Kaleto Fortress (B) 432Roman Fortress of

Sexaginta Prista (B) 434

Friendship Bridge 435

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesGârda de Sus (R) 163gardens, see parks &

gardensgay travellers

Bulgaria 476Romania 260

George Enescu Music Festival (R) 28, 48, 27

Gheorgheni (R) 122-3Giuleşti (R) 175GLBTI travellers

Bulgaria 476Romania 260

Golden Sands (B) 423Greece, travel to/from

267

HHărman Fortified Church

(R) 97health

Bulgaria 476-7Romania 260-1

hikingApuseni Mountains (R)

145-6Borovets (B) 327Borşa Complex (R) 182Bucegi Mountains

(R) 84Bulgaria 287, 456-7Carpathians (R) 15, 15Ceahlău National Park

(R) 198

Chepelare (B) 353Etâr (B) 379Malîovitsa (B) 328Pirin Mountains (B) 330Poiana Braşov (R) 94Prislop Pass (R) 182Rarău Massif (R) 209-10Retezat Mountains

(R) 135Rodopi Mountains

(B) 354Romania 244-5safety 245Stara Planina (B) 15,

381, 15Vitosha Nature Park (B)

318-19, 319Hisar (B) 383-5historic buildings

Alexandru Ioan Cuza University (R) 188

Arad Town Hall (R) 162Banca Agricolă (R) 112Butchers’ Bastion

(R) 168Canon’s Corridor (R)

159Casa Vlad Dracul

(R) 101Castelul de Lut Valea

Zanelor (R) 108Citadel, Braşov (R) 88Constanţa Casino

(R) 221County Council Building

(R) 127Elie Wiesel Memorial

House (R) 172Former Ceauşescu

Residence (R) 45Hirscher House (R) 87Konstantsalieva House

(B) 375Matthias Corvinus

House (R) 137Palace of Parliament

(R) 9, 35, 8-9, 25Peyo Yavorov House-

Museum (B) 304President’s Building

(B) 302Princely Court

Exposition (R) 195Romania 25, 25Romanian Athenaeum

(R) 39, 27Scholars’ Stairway

(R) 101Snagov Palace (R) 58Stephen’s Tower (R) 168Strada Sforii (R) 87

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500

IND

EX H- M

historic buildings contTown Hall Tower (R) 158Water Tower (R) 74

historic sitesUlitsa Gurko (B) 367

historyApril Uprising 452Bulgaria 446-55communism 454Greek 447-8Macedonian 447-8National Revival 451-2Ottoman 450-1Roman 417, 447-8Romania 232-41Thracian 446-7WWII 453-4

hitchingBulgaria 487Romania 270safety 270, 487

holidaysBulgaria 479Romania 263

horse ridingBulgaria 459 Romania 245

hot springs, see mineral baths

Huedin Microregion (R) 144-5

Humor Monastery (R) 206

IIaşi (R) 185-93, 186-7

accommodation 189-90

drinking 190-1entertainment 191-2food 190nightlife 190-1sights 185-9

Ieud (R) 180insurance

Bulgaria 476-7Romania 260, 261

International Theatre Festival (R) 27

internet resourcesBulgaria 285, 477, 479Romania 259, 261

Iza Valley (R) 178-81Izvoare (R) 171

KKaliakra Cape (B) 421Kalibash Villages (R) 98Karlovo (B) 385-6, 387kayaking 399Koprivshtitsa (B) 385

LLadislas, King 451Lake Srebârna (B) 440-1language

Bulgaria 284, 489-93Romania 22, 252, 273-8

legal mattersBulgaria 477Romania 261-2

lesbian travellersBulgaria 476Romania 260

GLBTI travellersBulgaria 476Romania 260

literatureBulgaria 444Romania 230

local transportBulgaria 487-8Romania 270, 272

Lovech (B) 380-2luggage 275

MMadara (B) 364-5Măgura (R) 98Malîovitsa (B) 328Mamaia (R) 225-7maps 381, 477-8Mara Valley (R) 175-8Maramureş (R) 13, 32,

166-82, 13accommodation 166climate 166food 166highlights 167, 167history 168travel seasons 166

Marginea (R) 208market 274measures

Bulgaria 479Romania 264

mediaBulgaria 479Romania 264

medical servicesBulgaria 476-7Romania 261

Melnik (B) 337-9memorials, see monu-

ments & memorialsMiercurea Ciuc (R) 120-2,

121mineral baths

Bulgaria 384, 458 Romania 247

mobile phonesBulgaria 284Romania 22, 264

Moldavia (R) 32, 183-210 accommodation 183climate 183food 183highlights 184, 184history 185travel seasons 183

Moldoviţa Monastery (R) 205

monasteries, see also churches & cathedrals

Agapia Monastery (R) 193

Aladzha Monastery (B) 423

Antim Monastery (R) 43Arbore Monastery (R)

204-5Bachkovo Monastery

(B) 353Bărboi Monastery

(R) 188Bârsana Monastery

(R) 179Basarbovo Rock

Monastery (B) 438-9Bogdana Monastery

(R) 208Brâncoveanu Monastery

(R) 108Bucovina (R) 10, 32,

204-9, 207, 11Cherepish Monastery

(B) 429Chiprovtsi Monastery

(B) 431-42Curtea de Argeş

Cathedral & Monastery (R) 69

Dragalevtsi Monastery (B) 318

Dragomirna Monastery (R) 206

Dryanovo Monastery (B) 376

Franciscan Monastery (R) 121

Golia Monastery (R) 187Humor Monastery (R)

206

Ivanovo Rock Monastery (B) 439

Lopushanski Monastery (B) 431

Moldoviţa Monastery (R) 205

Monastery of St John the New (R) 200-1

Neamţ Monastery (R) 194

Preobrazhenski Monastery (B) 374-5

Prince Mihai Monastery (R) 43

Putna Monastery (R) 206

Rila Monastery (B) 10, 324-7, 10

Rozhen Monastery (B) 338

Schitul Dârvari (R) 45Sihla Monastery (R) 193Sinaia Monastery (R) 81Șinca Veche (R) 108Snagov Monastery

(R) 58Sokolski Monastery

(B) 379Suceviţa Monastery

(R) 205Troyan Monastery

(B) 383Văratec Monastery

(R) 193-4Voroneţ Monastery

(R) 204-5money 275

Bulgaria 284, 475, 478-9Romania 262-3

monuments & memorialsAsenevtsi Monument

(B) 367Founders of the

Bulgarian State Monument (B) 361-2

Freedom Monument (B) 390

Piteşti Prison Memorial (R) 67

Reconciliation Park (R) 162

Sofia Monument (B) 299St John of Nepomuk &

Virgin Mary Statue (R) 153

Vasil Levski Memorial (B) 304

mosquesBanya Bashi Mosque

(B) 299Dzhumaya Mosque

(B) 343Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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DEX M

Eski Mosque (B) 391Great Mahmudiye

Mosque (R) 221Tombul Mosque (B) 362

motorcycle travelBulgaria 458-9, 483Romania 268within Romania 270

mountain biking 245mountaineering, see also

rock climbingMalîovitsa (B) 328

Mt Tâmpa (R) 87multiculturalism

Bulgaria 467Romania 252-3

museums & galleriesAleksander Nevski Crypt

(B) 303Angel Kânchev

House-Museum (B) 377

Archaeological Museum, Burgas (B) 397

Archaeological Museum, Hisar (B) 384

Archaeological Museum, Plovdiv (B) 342

Archaeological Museum, Sofia (B) 299

Archaeological Museum, Varna (B) 417

Archaeology & History Museum (R) 162

Art Collection Museum (R) 43

Art Museum, Braşov (R) 88

Art Museum, Craiova (R) 70-1

Art Museum, Piteşti (R) 67

Art Museum, Ploieşti (R) 62

ASTRA National Museum Complex (R) 112

Atanas Krastev House (B) 341-2

Balabanov House (B) 341

Banat History Museum (R) 154

Banat Village Museum (R) 154

Bansko Permanent Icon Exhibition (B) 334

Bran Village Museum (R) 93

Braşov Historical Museum (R) 87

Brukenthal Palace (R) 111

Bucovina History Museum (R) 201

Bucovinian Village Museum (R) 200

Center for Contemporary Art (B) 345-6

Central Eco-Tourism Mu-seum of the Danube Delta (R) 215

City Art Gallery (B) 345City Gallery of Fine Arts

(B) 343Clock Museum (R) 62Clock Tower (R) 99, 101Communist Consumers

Museum (R) 154Cotroceni Palace (R) 47County Art Museum

(R) 168County Museum (R) 147Cucuteni Museum

(R) 195Cultural Center Thrakart

(B) 345Culture Palace (R) 125-6Darvas-La Roche House

(R) 157-8Daskalov House (B) 377Earth & Man Museum

(B) 304Ecclesiastical &

Historical Museum (B) 325

Egg Museum (R) 206Etâr Ethnographic Open-

Air Museum (B) 379Ethnographic & Folk Art

Museum (R) 168Ethnographic Museum,

Braşov (R) 88Ethnographic Museum,

Burgas (B) 398-9Ethnographic Museum,

Craiova (R) 71 Ethnographic Museum of

Transylvania (R) 137Ethnographic Museum,

Târgu Mureş (R) 126-7Ethnographical Museum,

Plovdiv (B) 342Ethnographical Museum,

Sofia (B) 302Exposition Monastery

Farm (B) 325First Romanian School

Museum (R) 88Folk Art & Ethnographic

Museum (R) 215Folk Art Museum (R)

221Franz Binder Museum

of World Ethnology (R) 112

George Enescu Museum (R) 43

Grigore Antipa Natural History Museum (R) 43

Haáz Rezső Museum (R) 123

Hadzhi Dimitâr Museum (B) 393-4

Hindlian House (B) 342Historical &

Ethnographical Museum (B) 334

Historical Museum (B) 356

History & Archaeology Museum (R) 215

History Museum (R) 111Histria Archaeological

Complex & Museum (R) 224

House Museum of Neofit Rilski (B) 334

House Museum of Nikola Vaptsarov (B) 334

Icon Gallery, Plovdiv (B) 343

Icon Gallery, Rila Monastery (B) 325

Iron Gates Museum (R) 74

Jewish History Museum (R) 44

Jewish Museum (R) 189Kordopulov House

(B) 337Kulata Ethnological

Complex (B) 387-8Maramureş Ethnographic

Museum (R) 172Memorial Museum

to the Victims of Communism & to the Resistance (R) 173

Mihai Eminescu Museum of Literature (R) 189

Military Barracks (R) 65Mirkovich House (B) 393Multimedia Visitors

Centre (B) 367Museum of Folk Craft &

Applied Arts (B) 382Museum of History and

Archaeology (R) 196Museum of Icons (B)

377Museum of National

Revival & Constituent Assembly (B) 367

Museum of Oil (R) 62Museum of Otets Paisii

Hilendarski (B) 334

Museum of Printing & Old Romanian Books (R) 65-6

Museum of Roses (B) 386

Museum of Socialist Art (B) 305

Museum of the 1989 Revolution (R) 151

Museum of the History of Bucharest (R) 38

Museum of the Romanian Peasant (R) 44

Museum of Wine (B) 337

Muzeul Național Secuiesc (R) 119

National Art Museum, Bucharest (R) 39

National Art Museum, Cluj-Napoca (R) 137

National Exhibition of Crafts & Arts (B) 383

National Gallery Quadrat 500 (B) 303-4

National History & Archaeological Museum (R) 220

National History Museum (R) 38

National History Museum of Transylvania (R) 137

National Military Museum (R) 47

National Museum of Contemporary Art (R) 35

National Museum of Geology (R) 44

National Museum of History (B) 317-18

National Museum of Military History (B) 305

National Museum of Natural History (B) 299, 302

National Village Museum (R) 44

Natural History Museum (B) 398

Natural Science Museum (R) 71

Natural Sciences Museum Complex (R) 222

Naval History Museum (R) 221

Nedkovich House (B) 345

Neolithic Dwellings Museum (B) 391

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502

IND

EX M- P

museums contNicolae Grigorescu

Museum (R) 64Palace of Culture (R)

186-7Parcul Etnografic

Romulus Vuia (R) 138Permanent Exhibition of

Dimitar Kirov (B) 343Pharmaceutical

Museum (R) 111Pharmacy History

Collection (R) 137Planetarium (R) 222-3Princely Court (R) 65Putna Museum (R) 206Regional History

Museum (B) 343Regional Museum of

History, Shumen (B) 362

Salt Museum (B) 411-26Sarafkina Kâshta (B)

366-7Silversmith’s

House (R) 147Smolyan Art

Gallery (B) 356Sofia City Art Gallery

(B) 302Sofia History Museum

(B) 298State Art Museum

(B) 367Teleki-Bolyai Library

(R) 127Theodor Aman

Museum (R) 42Theodor Pallady

Museum (R) 45Timișoara Art Museum

(R) 151, 153Tryavna Museum School

of Painting (B) 377Tsanko Lavrenov &

Mexican Art Exhibitions (B) 343

Union Museum (R) 188-9

Vasil Levski Museum (B) 380

Veliko Târnovo Archaeological Museum (B) 368

Velyan’s House (B) 333-4

Village Museum, Baia Mare (R) 168

Village Museum, Sighetu Marmaţiei (R) 172

Zambaccian Museum (R) 45

Zlatyu Boyadjiev Gallery (B) 343

Zosim Oancea Glass Icons Museum (R) 117

musicBulgaria 462-5Romania 230, 250-1

mythologyBulgaria 287Romania 242-3

Nnational parks & reserves,

see also parks & gardens, wildlife reserves

Apuseni Nature Park (R) 161, 163

Blue Rocks Nature Park (B) 393

Breite Ancient Oak Tree Reserve (R) 101

Bulgaria 460Ceahlău National Park

(R) 198-200, 199Danube Delta (R) 213-14Hăşmaş-Bicaz Gorges

National Park (R) 197Iron Gates National Park

(R) 74Kaliakra Nature Reserve

(B) 421Piatra Craiului National

Park (R) 96Pirin National Park 16,

329, 333, 16, 287Romania 247Ropotamo Nature

Reserve (B) 407Rusenski Lom Nature

Park (B) 438-40, 439Strandzha Nature Park

(B) 410Vitosha Nature Park (B)

318-20, 319Vrachanski Balkan

Nature Park (B) 429National Revival 451-2nature parks, see national

parks & reservesNesebâr (B) 412-16, 414newspapers

Bulgaria 479Romania 264

nightlife 25, see also individual locations

Nikopolis-ad-Istrum (B) 376

northern Bulgaria 294, 427-42, 428

accommodation 427climate 427food 427highlights 428, 428history 429travel seasons 427

northern Transylvania (R) 136-48

OOdorheiu Secuiesc (R)

123-4opening hours

Bulgaria 479Romania 263

Oradea (R) 157-61, 158Orthodox Easter (B) 289outdoor activities

Bulgaria 456-9Romania 244-8

Ppainting

Bulgaria 462-3Romania 249

Palace of Parliament (R) 9, 35, 8-9, 25

palaces, see castles & palaces

Păltiniş (R) 116-17Pamporovo (B) 354-5parks & gardens, see

also national parks & reserves

Alexandru Borza Botanic Gardens (R) 137

Borisova Gradina (B) 304-5

Botanical Gardens (R) 187

Copou Park (R) 189 Cişmigiu Garden (R) 43Herăstrău Park (R) 45Maritime Park (Burgas)

(B) 397Primorski Park (B) 416Sofia City Garden (B)

302Sofia University

Botanical Garden (B) 304

Tsar Simeon Garden (B) 341

passportsBulgaria 480-1, 482Romania 266

Peștera (R) 98phonecards

Bulgaria 480Romania 264

Piatra Neamţ (R) 194-8, 195

Pirin National Park (B) 16, 329, 330, 16, 287

Piteşti (R) 66-8planning (Bulgaria)

basics 284-5budget 284-5calender of events

288-90etiquette 285internet resources 285itineraries 291-2, 291,

292regions 293-4travel seasons 284,

288-90planning (Romania)

basics 22-3budgeting 22-3calendar of events 26-8internet resources 23itineraries 29-30, 29, 30regions 31-2safe travel 23scams 23travel seasons 22, 26-8

plants 461Ploieşti (R) 62-5, 63Plovdiv (B) 16, 293, 339-52,

340, 344, 16accommodation 321,

346-8climate 321drinking 349-50entertainment 350events 346festivals 346food 321, 348-9highlights 322, 322history 323, 339nightlife 349-50shopping 350sights 341-3, 345-6tourist information 350-1tours 343travel seasons 321travel to/from 351-2travel within 352

Poiana Braşov (R) 94-5Poienile Izei (R) 180politics

Bulgaria 444-5Romania 230-1

Pomorie (B) 411-12

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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503IN

DEX P

- Spopulation

Bulgaria 445, 466-7Romania 230-1, 252-3

postal servicesBulgaria 479Romania 263

pottery 463Prahova Valley (R) 77-85Praid (R) 124Predeal (R) 83-5Prejmer Fortified Church

(R) 97Preobrazhenski Monastery

(B) 374-5Primorsko (B) 408Prislop Pass (R) 182public holidays

Bulgaria 479Romania 256, 263

public transportBulgaria 487-8Romania 270, 272

Putna Monastery (R) 206

Rrabies 476-7Răchițele (R) 145Rădăuţi (R) 208radio

Bulgaria 479Romania 264

Rarău Massif (R) 209-10, 209

Răşinari (R) 116religion

Bulgaria 286, 467religious art 286, 462Romania 231

reservations 273Retezat Mountains (R)

134-6, 135Rila Monastery (B) 10,

324-7, 10Rila Mountains (B) 323-9,

324Rila Village (B) 323-4rock climbing

Bulgaria 287, 328, 457Romania 246

Rodopi Mountains (B) 352-8

Roman baths 417Romania 17-278, 20-1

accessible travel 265accommodation 258-9activities 26-8, 244-8arts 249-51ATMs 262

books 230, 233, 237, 238, 239, 242, 254-6

budget 23business hours 263cell phones 22, 264children, travelling

with 259climate 22, 26-8, 22consulates 260credit cards 262culture 249-51currency 22customs regulations

259discount cards 259drinks 254-6economics 230-1electricity 260embassies 260emergencies 23etiquette 262exchange rates 23festivals & events 26-8food 254-6, 261gay travellers 260GLBTI travellers 260health 260-1highlights 6-18, 6-7,

8-16history 232-41holidays 263insurance 260, 261internet resources 261itineraries 29-30,

29, 30language 22, 252, 273-8legal matters 261-2lesbian travellers 260media 264medical services 261mobile phones 22, 264money 22, 23, 262-3opening hours 263passports 266people 252-3politics 230-1population 230-1postal services 263public holidays 263safety 245scams 22smoking 264telephone services 22,

263-4time 264tipping 263toilets 265tourist information 265tours 269

transport 22, 266-72travellers with

disabilities 265travel seasons 22, 22travel to/from 23, 266-9travel within 269-72vacations 263visas 22, 265weather 22, 26-8weights & measures

264wildlife 244-8work 265

Romanian language 22, 252, 273-8

Roman sitesHisar (B) 383Nikopolis-ad-Istrum

(B) 376Roman Amphitheatre

(B) 341Roman Odeon (B) 345Roman Theatre, Stara

Zagora (B) 391Stadium of Philippopolis

(B) 342Rose Festival (B) 289,

289roses 388Rozhen Monastery (B)

338ruins, see also fortresses,

Roman sites, tombsAncient Serdica Complex

(B) 298Buzludzha Monument

(B) 389-90Citadel, Odorheiu

Secuiesc (R) 123Citadel, Târgu Mureş

(R) 127Hisar Fortress (B) 380Histria (R) 224Medieval Fortress of

Severin (R) 74Roman Mosaic (R) 220Ruins of Eumolpias

(B) 342Ruse (B) 433-8, 436-7Rusenski Lom Nature Park

(B) 438-40, 439

Ssafety

beaches 399hiking 245hitching 270, 487Romania 245

salt baths 399Salt Mine (R) 143

Sâmbăta (R) 107-8Săpânţa (R) 178Sat-Şugatag (R) 175-6Saxon Land (R) 98-118, 99scams

Bulgaria 478, 487Romania 22

sculptureBulgaria 462-3Romania 249-50

Seven Rila Lakes (B) 328Sfântu Gheorghe (R) 118-

20, 219-20Shipka (B) 389-91shopping, see also

individual locationslanguage 275-6, 490-1

Shumen (B) 361-4, 362-3Sibiel (R) 117-18Sibiu (R) 109-16, 110

accommodation 112-13activities 112drinking 114entertainment 114-15events 112festivals 112food 113-14history 110nightlife 114shopping 115sights 110-12tourist information 115travel to/from 115travel within 116

Sighetu Marmaţiei (R) 172-5, 174

Sighişoara (R) 98-104, 100, 17

accommodation 102-3activities 101drinking 103-4events 101-2festivals 101-2food 103-4shopping 104sights 99, 101tourist information 104tours 101travel to/from 104travel within 104

Silistra (B) 441-2Sinaia (R) 77, 80-2, 80Sinemorets (B) 410-11skiing

Bansko (B) 334-5Borovets (B) 327Borşa Complex (R) 182Bulgaria 286, 327, 457-8

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504

IND

EX S- U

skiing contChepelare (B) 352-4Malîovitsa (B) 328Pamporovo (B) 355Pirin Mountains (B)

16, 16Poiana Braşov (R) 94Predeal (R) 83Romania 246-7Vitosha Nature Park (B)

319-20, 319Sliven (B) 392-4, 393smoking

Bulgaria 479Romania 264

Smolyan (B) 355-7Snagov Lake (R) 58-9snowboarding

Bulgaria 286, 457-8Romania 246-7

Sofia (B) 295-320, 300-1accommodation 296,

306-8activities 305climate 296drinking 310-11entertainment 311-13festivals & events 306food 296, 308-10highlights 297, 297history 298itineraries 299nightlife 310-11shopping 313-14sights 298-9, 302-5tourist information 314-15tours 305-6travel seasons 296travel to/from 315-16travel within 316-17

Sokolski Monastery (B) 379

Southern Mountains (B) 293, 321-358, 322

accommodation 321climate 321food 321highlights 322, 322history 323travel seasons 321

southwest Transylvania (R) 129-36

Sovata (R) 124-5Sozopol (B) 403-8, 404,

287

St Anastasia Island (B) 399

Stalin, Joseph 89Stara Planina (B) 15,

381, 15Stara Zagora (B) 391-2Ştefan cel Mare (Stephen

the Great) 233Stoker, Bram 147, 242-3Suceava (R) 200-3Suceviţa Monastery (R)

205Sulina (R) 217-19Sunny Beach (Slânchev

Bryag) 412Surdeşti (R) 171Sveta Sofia Church (B) 303Sveti Ivan (B) 405Sveti Konstantin (B)

423-4synagogues

Bal Shem Tov Syna-gogue (R) 196

Choral Temple (R) 44Gah Synagogue (R) 201Great Synagogue,

Bucharest (R) 44Great Synagogue, Iaşi

(R) 188Neolog Synagogue

(R) 162Orthodox Synagogue,

Oradea (R) 158Orthodox Synagogue,

Târgu Mureş (R) 127Ploieşti Synagogue

(R) 62Sephardic Synagogue

(R) 172-3Sofia Synagogue (B)

298-9Synagogue in the

Fortress (R) 151Zion Neolog Synagogue

(R) 158-9Székely Land (R) 118-29

TŢara Chioarului (R) 171-2Târgovişte (R) 65-6Târgu Jiu (R) 72Târgu Mureş (R) 125-9,

126Târgu Neamţ (R) 193-4taxis

Bulgaria 487Romania 272

telephone servicesBulgaria 284, 479-80Romania 22, 263-4

Ţepeş, Vlad 58, 69, 235, 237, 242-3

thermal baths, see also mineral baths

Strand Apollo (R) 161Strand Felix (R) 161Varna (B) 417

Thracian ruins 14, 386, 434, 14

tick-borne encephalitis 477

timeBulgaria 480language 275, 491Romania 264

Timișoara (R) 151-7, 152accommodation 155activities 154drinking 156entertainment 156-7events 154festivals 154food 155-6nightlife 156shopping 157sights 151, 153-4tourist information 157tours 154travel to/from 157

tippingBulgaria 478Romania 263

toiletsBulgaria 480Romania 265

tombsOstrusha Tomb (B) 390Thracian Tomb of

Kazanlâk (B) 386Thracian Tomb of Svesh-

tari (B) 14, 434, 14tourist information

Bulgaria 480Romania 265

tourist trainsBansko (B) 334Carpathian Forest

Steam Train (R) 181Vaser Valley Forest

Railway (R) 181tours

Bulgaria 484Romania 269, 272

traditional craftsBulgaria 462-5Romania 250

train travelto/from Bulgaria 483-4,to/from Romania 268-9

within Bulgaria 488 within Romania 272

Transfăgărăşan Road (R) 16, 109, 16

Transilvania International Film Festival (R) 27, 139

transportBulgaria 285language 276-7, 491-2Romania 23, 266-72

Transrarău Hwy (R) 210Transylvania (R) 31, 76-

148, 78-9accommodation 76climate 76food 76highlights 78-9, 78-9history 77travel seasons 76

travellers with disabilitiesBulgaria 480Romania 265

travel seasonsBulgaria 284, 284Romania 22, 22

travel to/fromBulgaria 285, 482-4Romania 23, 266-9

travel within Bulgaria 484-8Romania 269-72

trekking, see hikingTroyan (B) 382-3Troyan Monastery (B) 383Tryavna (B) 377-9Tsarevets Fortress (B)

365-6, 366Tsarevo (B) 409-10ţuică (R) 255-6Tulcea (R) 214-17, 214Turda (R) 143-4Turda Gorge (R) 144Turkey, travel to/from

267, 350

UUkraine, travel to/from

175Unesco World Heritage

SitesBucovina monasteries

(R) 10, 32, 204-9, 207, 11

Palace of Parliament (R) 9, 35, 8-9, 25

Rila Monastery (B) 324-7

Sighişoara (R) 98-101Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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505IN

DEX U

- ZThracian Tomb of

Kazanlâk (B) 386Thracian Tomb of Svesh-

tari (B) 14, 434, 14wooden churches,

Maramureş (R) 176Untold Festival (R) 28,

139, 27

Vvacations

Bulgaria 479Romania 263

Vadu Izei (R) 178-9Vama Veche (R) 227-8Varna (B) 416-23, 418-

19, 279accommodation 420activities 417-20drinking & nightlife 422entertainment 422festivals & events 420food 421-2history 416information 422sights 417travel to/from 423travel within 423

Varna Summer International Music Festival (B) 290, 420

Vaser Valley (R) 181-2vegans 471vegetarians 471

Veliko Târnovo (B) 12, 294, 368-9, 12

accommodation 359, 370-2

activities 369-70climate 359drinking 372-3entertainment 373events 370festivals 370food 359, 372highlights 360, 360history 361, 365nightlife 372-3shopping 373sights 365-8tourist information 373travel seasons 359travel to/from 373-4travel within 374

Vidin (B) 433vineyards, see wineriesvisas

Bulgaria 284, 480-1Romania 22, 265

Viscri (R) 106Vişeu de Sus 181-2Vişeu Valley (R) 181-2visual art

Bulgaria 462-3Romania 249-51

Vitosha Nature Park (B) 318-20, 319

volunteering 481

Voroneţ Monastery (R) 204-5

Vratsa (B) 429-30

WWallachia (R) 31, 60-75

accommodation 60climate 60food 60highlights 61, 61history 62travel seasons 60

water parks 413-15water sports 424, 458weather

Bulgaria 284, 288-90Romania 22, 26-8

websites, see internet resources

weights & measuresBulgaria 479Romania 264

Western Europe, travel to/from 268

wildlife, see also individual species, animals

bears 248, 461Bulgaria 459-61pygmy cormorants 247red-breasted geese 247wolves 461

wildlife reservesLibearty Bear Sanctuary

(R) 96-7

wildlife watchingBulgaria 458, 459Danube Delta (R) 13, 13 Romania 247-8

wineBulgaria 12, 468-9, 13Cotnari (R) 191Melnik (B) 337Romania 67, 256

wineries 67, 255, 468-9wolves 461women in Romania 253women travellers 481woodcarving 378wooden churches,

Maramureş (R) 176wooden gateways,

Maramureş (R) 176work

Bulgaria 481Romania 265

YYavorov, Peyo 306

ZZărnesţi (R) 95-6zoos

Cozla Zoological Park (R) 196

Sofia Zoo (B) 312Târgovişte Zoo (R) 65Zoo Park, Varna (B) 416

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506

NO

TES

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507N

OTES

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508

NO

TES

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509N

OTES

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Send your ‘Lonely Planet in the Wild’ photos to [email protected] We share the best on our Facebook page every week!

JUST

IN

LONELY PLANET WILDIN THE

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511

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Tube station

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541537th edition – Jul 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 543 2© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSMark BakerMark is a freelance travel writer with a penchant for offbeat stories and forgotten places. He’s originally from the United States, but now makes his home in the Czech capital, Prague. He mainly writes travel guides on Eastern and Central Europe for Lonely Planet as well as several other leading travel publishers, but finds real satisfaction in digging up stories in places that are too remote or too quirky for the guides. He also contributes to publications such as the Wall Street

Journal and National Geographic Traveler. Prior to becoming an author, he worked as a journalist for the Economist, Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe, among other organisations. When he’s not travelling, these days he’s teaching Central European history and journalism at Anglo- American University in Prague or out riding his bike. He has a master’s degree in International Affairs from Columbia University in New York.

Steve FallonA native of Boston, Massachusetts, Steve graduated from Georgetown Univer-sity with a Bachelor of Science in modern languages. After working for several years for an American daily newspaper and earning a master’s degree in jour-nalism, his fascination with the ‘new’ Asia led him to Hong Kong, where he lived for over a dozen years, working for a variety of media and running his own travel bookshop. Steve lived in Budapest for three years before moving to London in

1994. He has written or contributed to more than 100 Lonely Planet titles. Steve is a qualified Lon-don Blue Badge Tourist Guide.

Anita IsalskaAnita is a travel journalist, editor and copywriter whose work for Lonely Planet has taken her from Greek beach towns to Malaysian jungles, and plenty of plac-es in between. After several merry years as an in-house editor and writer – with a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance be-tween the UK, Australia and any Balkan guesthouse with a good wi-fi connection. Anita writes about travel, food and culture for a host of websites and magazines.

Read her stuff on www.anitaisalska.com.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’