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339339

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alex Sternick, Amira Elwakil, Ankerstjerne Rønneberg, Arie van Oosterwijk, Barney Smith, Basia Jozwiak, Bettina Voss, David French, Denise Hunter , Elizabeth Greive, Fabrice Cairaschi, Gregory Kipling, Helen Boxwill, Ido Gottlieb, Jan van Berkel, Jean Bayle, Laurence West, Lucy Moodie, Magda Bulska, Maria Junyent, Matthew Taylor, Nona Caulkins, Peter McFadden, Polly Compston, Raphael Hernandez, Roy Sells, Rupert Wilkinson, Simone Fischer, Stefan Kühne, Tajan Tober, Tesfa Gebreab, Timophey Chichkan, Wolfgang Gehring.

WRITER THANKSJean-Bernard CarilletA huge thanks to everyone who helped out and made this trip an enlightenment, including Wegene, Tania, Houmed, Dominique, Osman, Olivier, Sonja and all the people I met on the road. At LP I’m grateful to Matt for his trust and support, and to the hard-

working editors. It has been a huge pleasure to work with co-author Anthony, who shares the same pas-sion for Africa. At home, a gros bisou to Eva and lots of love to Morgane, whose support was essential.

Anthony HamSpecial thanks to so many people in Ethiopia –Tania, Cheru, Fre, Ingeda, Luigi, Françoise, Shif, Julia, Nick, Melako, Mohamed, Mulugeta and others. Wegene Temesgen was a wonderful driver, guide and travel companion. Matt Phillips continues to be a firm friend and fine editor and a man whose passion for Africa rivals my own. Huge thanks also to Jean- Bernard, another Africa friend and expert of long standing. And as always to my family who wait patiently at home for me to return – gracias amores.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Hamar woman with copper bracelets, David Schweitzer/Getty Images ©

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

340

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

THIS BOOKThis 6th edition of Lonely Planet’s Ethiopia & Djibouti guidebook was researched and written by Jean-Bernard Carillet and Anthony Ham. The previous edition was written by Jean-Bernard Carillet, Tim Bewer and Stuart Butler. This guide-

book was produced by the following:Destination Editor Matt Phillips Product Editor Paul HardingSenior Cartographer Diana Von HoldtBook DesignerJessica Rose Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Judith Bamber, Imogen Bannister, Nigel Chin,

Melanie Dankel, Jodie Martire, Jenna Myers, Monique PerrinCartographer Hunor CsutorosAssisting Book Designer Michael BuickCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Kate Chapman, Catherine Naghten, Tania O’Connor

341

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAbba Garima 107Abba Jiffar’s Palace 211Abba Liqanos 102Abba Pentalewon 96Abba Yohanni 112Abiata-Shala Lakes National

Park 139-40, 140Abourma Rock Art Site 322Abraha We Atsbeha 111Abuna Abraham 109Abuna Aregawi 251Abuna Aregawi church 106Abuna Gebre Mikael 110Abuna Samuel 251Abuna Yemata Guh 109Abyssinian lions 54accommodation 20, 280-1,

see also individual locations

Djibouti 325language 332

activities 18-20, see also individual activities

Adaitu 184Adadi Maryam 137Adare houses 195Addis Ababa 15, 30-62,

31, 34-5, 38-9, 44, 46-7, 15

accommodation 30, 43-50

activities 42climate 30courses 42drinking & nightlife 54-6entertainment 56-7festivals & events 42-3food 30, 50-3highlights 31, 31history 32information 58-9

itineraries 36orientation 33shopping 57-62sights 32-42tours 42travel to/from 59-61travel within 61-2

Addis Ababa Museum 41Addis Ababa University 42Addis Alem 203Adi Arkay 90, 91Adigrat 107Adwa 106-7Adwa, Battle of 105Afar people 184, 246-7Afewerk Tekle’s Home &

Studio 40Africa Hall 41African Quarter

(Djibouti City) 308AIDS 301air travel 290-1, 293-4,

328-9, 294to/from Djibouti 328-9to/from Ethiopia 290-1within Ethiopia 293-4

airlines 290Aksum 93-106, 94-5, 97,

19, 244Aksum stelae fields 98-9Aksumite architecture 258Aksumite coins 100Aksumite kingdom 226-7Alatash National Park 85Ambikwa 90-1Ambo 203-6Amda Seyon 233Amhara people 245-6Amharic language 331-8amoebic dysentery 303Amora Gedel Park 143Animal Market (Aksum) 102animals 18, 273-6, see also

individual animalsantelope migration 21Anuak Market 217-18

Anuak people 219Arabtu Ensessa Church 96Arba Minch 156-9, 158Arba Minch Crocodile

Ranch 156Arbatu Ensessa 125Arbore 172Archaeological Museum

(Aksum) 101-2archaeological sites

Abourma Rock Art Site 322

Aksum stelae fields 96-100, 98-9

Butajira 137Dilla stelae fields 153Dungur (Queen of

Sheba’s) Palace 101Hadar 185Melka Kunture 137Yeha 113

architecture 258-9Adare houses 195Dorze huts 161Koremi 200

Ardo 319Arfaide 163area codes 17Ari people 168Ark of the Covenant 75,

94-5, 203, 229, 260Ark of the Covenant Chapel

94-5Arkwasiye 91art galleries, see museums

& galleriesArthur Rimbaud Center 193arts 51, 254-8, 324Asaita 186Ashawa Market 187Ashetan Maryam 125asmat 252Atatami Mikael Church

79-97ATMs 283, 326Atsbi Cluster 112Awasa 142-5, 143

Awash Arba 184Awash Falls 182Awash National Park 181-4,

182Aweke, Aster 255Awra Amba 74azmaris 257Azuwa Maryam 74

BBabille Elephant Sanctuary

200Babille Market 200baboons 273Bahir Dar 67-72, 68Bale Mountains 13, 146-52Bale Mountains National

Park 147-52, 148Banana Art Gallery 140-1Bankoualé 319-20Banna people 168bathrooms 287, 327Bati 131Battle of Adwa 105beaches 139, 308, 322Bebeka Coffee

Plantation 210Bechu 209Bedele 208Bedele Beer Factory 208beer 208, 268, 325begging 110Belai the Cannibal 251Bet Abba Libanos 124-6Bet Amanuel 124Bet Danaghel 123Bet Gabriel-Rufael 124Bet Giyorgis 121Bet Golgotha 123Bet Medhane Alem 121-2Bet Merkorios 124Bet Meskel 123Bet Mikael 123Bet Uraiel 124Bete Giorgis 73-4Bete Maryam 73

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

342

IND

EX B-D

Bete Maryam Mausoleum 37-40

Bete Mikael Church 187Bete Selassie 74bicycle travel 294, see also

cyclingBilbila Chirkos 125Bilbila Giyorgis 125birds 274

flamingos 140, 179, 315, 318

birdwatching 18, 22, 138, 155, 273, 275, 277

Abiata-Shala Lakes National Park

Awash National Park 182-3

Bale Mountains National Park 147-52

Boye Dam 212Decan 315Gibe Sheleko National

Park 218Lake Ziway 138Simien Mountains

National Park 86-93Yabelo Wildlife

Sanctuary 155Birgida Maryam 85Bishoftu 179-81, 180biting insects 304black market 283Blue Nile Bridge 67Blue Nile Falls 81Blue Nile Gorge 67Blue Nile River 82boat travel 295, 329boat trips

Blue Nile Outlet 72Lake Ziway 138

books 222, 238Borana National Park –

Yabelo Wildlife Sanctuary 155

border crossings 291-3, 329

Djibouti 291Eritrea 291-2Kenya 292Somaliland 292-3South Sudan 293Sudan 293

Borena wells 156Boye Dam 212Bridge of God 156, 159Bruce, James 82

budgeting 17bull-jumping ceremony

21, 172business hours 17, 284, 327bus travel 295business hours 17, 284, 327Busso 163Butajira 136, 137Buyit Ras 90

Ccalendar, Ethiopian 287camping 280Canyon, the 309car travel 296-7, 329cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscastles

Royal Enclosure 78-9cave art 190caves

Goda-Ajawa 190Grotte de la Chauve-

Souris 319Hyena Den 182Lega-Oda 190Porc-Epic 190Sof Omar Cave 151

cell phones 16, 327chat 191, 266, 316, 324Cheila 113Chenek 90Chief Kalla Gezahegn’s

home 163children, travel with 325Christianity 227, 250-2churches & cathedrals 37-

40, 114, 8, 11, 12, 244Abba Yohanni 112Abraha We Atsbeha 111Abuna Abraham 109Abuna Aregawi church

106Abuna Gebre Mikael 110Abuna Yemata Guh 109Arabtu Ensessa Church

96Arbatu Ensessa 125Ark of the Covenant

Chapel 94-5Bet Abba Libanos 124-6Bet Amanuel 124Bet Danaghel 123Bet Gabriel-Rufael 124Bet Giyorgis 121Bet Golgotha 123Bet Medhane Alem 121-2Bet Merkorios 124Bet Meskel 123

Bet Mikael 123Bet Uraiel 124Bete Maryam

Mausoleum 37-40Bete Mikael Church 187Bilbila Chirkos 125Bilbila Giyorgis 125Church of Abuna Aftse

113Church of Debre Sina 85Daniel Korkor 109-10Debre Berhan Selassie

77-8, 11Djibouti cathedral 308Dugem Selassie 110Église Éthiopienne

Orthodoxe Tewahido St Gabriel du Soleil 308-9

Entoto Maryam Church 61

Gebriel Wukien 112-14Geneta Maryam 126Greek Orthodox Church

187Holy Trinity Cathedral 37Kidane Mehret Church

41Lalibela churches 9,

120-30, 228, 8Maryam Korkor 109Maryam Papaseit 110Medhane Alem

Cathedral 195Medhane Alem Church

218Medhane Alem Kesho 111Mekina Medane Alem

126Meqaber Ga’ewa 111Mikael Barka 112Mikael Debre Selam 112Mikael Imba 112Mikael Milhaizengi 111-12Na’akuto La‘ab 125-6New Church of St Mary

of Zion 95-6Old Church of St Mary of

Zion 96Petros We Paulos 111Portuguese Cathedral 86rock-hewn churches

of Tigray 12, 107-16, 108, 12

St George Cathedral & Museum 36

St Maryam Church 203St Mary Catholic Church

195St Mary of Zion

Churches Complex 94

Washa Mikael Church 36-7

Wukro Cherkos 111Yemrehanna Kristos 125Yohannes Maequdi 110

Church of Abuna Aftse 113Church of Debre Sina 85Cimetière Marin 322cinema 222civil disturbances 285climate 16, 21-2coffee 214, 267Coffee Plantation 210coins, Aksumite 100conservation 85consulates 281-2, 326cooking courses 80, 127Coptic calendar 287costs 17, 280-1, 314, 325courses

cooking 80, 127dance 42language 42

crafts 324credit cards 284, 326crocodiles 156, 160culture 18-19, 20, 245-

59, 324currency 16, current affairs 222-3,

283-4, 326customs regulations

281, 325cycling 294, 329

DDaasanach people 168Dallol 119, 15Danakil Depression 15,

119-20, 15dance 42, 256dangers & annoyances,

see safe travelDaniel Korkor 109-10Debre Berhan Selassie

77-8, 11Debre Damo 106, 261Debre Libanos 66-7Debre Markos 132Debre Maryam 75Debre Zeyit 179-81, 180Decan 315Dega Estefanos 75Dekatu 163dengue fever 300Derg monument 40Derg, the 238-44Desalegn, Hailemariam 222Dessie 130-1

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

343IN

DEX -D

- H diarrhoea 303Didesa Wildlife Sanctuary

210Dilla 153-4Dilla stelae fields 153Dimeka 173Dire Dawa 187-91, 188disabilities, travellers with

287, 328Dittilou 320diving 309-11Djibouti 306-30, 307

accommodation 306arts 324basics 16-17border crossings 329climate 306costs 309culture 324drinks 325economy 323environment 325food 306, 325highlights 307, 307history 323-4language 309politics 323travel to/from 328-9travel within 329-30visas 309, 328

Djibouti cathedral 308Djibouti City 308-18,

310, 312accommodation 308,

311-13activities 309-11beaches 308drinking & nightlife

316-17food 308, 313-16information 317sights 308tours 311travel to/from 317-18travel within 318

Djibouti Road 184-6Dodola 146-7, 146Dokatu Market 162Dola-Mena 152Dola-Mena Road 149Dorze 161-2drinks 267-71, 325

beer 208, 268, 325coffee 214, 267tej 267-8

driving, see car traveldriving licence 296drugs 283Dugem Selassie 110

Dungur (Queen of Sheba’s) Palace 101

dysentery 303

EEastern Ethiopia 177-201,

178accommodation 177climate 177food 177highlights 178, 178

economy 222-3Église Éthiopienne

Orthodoxe Tewahido St Gabriel du Soleil 308-9

El Sod 154electricity 281, 326elephants 200, 220, 273embassies 281-2, 326emergencies 17

language 333-4Emir Nur’s Tomb 195-6Emperor Haile Selassie

142, 235, 260, 262Emperor Menelik 45, 233-4Emperor Tewodros 231-2Emperor Yohannes 232-3Empress Mentewab’s

Kuskuam Complex 79Entoto Maryam Church 61Entoto Mountains 61Entoto Panoramic

Viewpoint 40environment 272-8

Djibouti 325environmental issues 275-8Eostateos 252Equestrian Saints 252Erer Gate Market 192Eritrea 241, 291Ethiopia

accommodation 280-1Addis Ababa 30-62basics 16-17border crossings 291-3Eastern Ethiopia 177-201emergencies 17history 222-44language 331-8Northern Ethiopia 63-132Southern Ethiopia 133-76travel to/from 17, 290-3travel within 17, 293-8visas 288-9Western Ethiopia

Ethiopia-Djibouti Rail Yard 187

Ethiopia-Eritrea War 241Ethiopian saints 250-4

Ethiopian Wildlife Conser-vation Authority 85

Ethiopian wolf 149, 13ethnic groups 20, 168-9,

219, 245-7, 324, 12, see also individual peoples

Ethnological Museum 32-3etiquette 249, 268European Quarter

(Djibouti City) 308events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 17

FFalasha people 247Fallana Gate Market 192famine 243Fantale Crater 181-2faranji frenzy 285-6Fasha 163Fasika 22Fasiladas’ Bath 79-80Fasiladas’ Palace 78-9, 262Feres Magala 193Festival of Maryam Zion

22, 102festivals & events 21-2

Aksum 102bull-jumping ceremony

21, 172Fasika 22Festival of Maryam Zion

22, 102Leddet 21, 42-3meskel 22Timkat 12, 21, 81, 102,

13, 261films 222Filwoha Hot Springs 181flamingos 140, 179, 315,

318flora 278food 14, 264-71, 325, 14,

see also individual locations

cooking courses 80, 127Djibouti 325etiquette 268glossary 270-1language 333

foreign relations 223Forêt du Day 320-3Forty Springs 160-1frogs 276

GGabriel, Saint 252Galila 85

galleries, see museum & galleries

Gambela 215-20, 216Gambela National Park 220Gamole 163Garima Gospels 253gay travellers 282, 326Gebre Kristos 252Gebre Manfus Kiddus 252Gebre Meskel’s tomb 101Gebriel Wukien 112-14Gecha 209Geech 89-90gelada monkey 273Geneta Maryam 126geography 87, 272geology 20, 87Gersale 163Gesergio 163Gewane 184Gheralta Cluster 109-10Gibe III Dam 276-8Gibe Sheleko National

Park 218glossary 338Gobodura Hill 100Goda Mountains 319Goda-Ajawa 190Gonder 10, 75-85, 76Gonder architecture 259Gore 209Gorgora 85-6Grand Barra 318Grat Be’al Gebri 113Great Ethiopian Run 22, 43Great Stele 99Greek Orthodox Church

187Grotte de la Chauve-Souris

319Guder 206-7Gudit Stelae Field 98Gurage people 246gursha 268

HHadar 185Haile Selassie, Emperor

142, 235, 260 262hairstyles 250Hamer people 168Harar 10, 191-200,

192-3, 10Harar Brewery 196Harar National Museum

195Harari people 247Harla 191hartebeests 141

344

IND

EX H- M

Hayzo 161health 299-304

Djibouti 302, 330Ethiopia 300-4

heat exhaustion 303, 330heatstroke 303-4hepatitis 300-1hiking 20

Bale Mountains National Park 149-50

Djibouti 319, 320Dodola 146-7, 146Lalibela 126Menagesha National

Forest 217Menz-Guassa Commu-

nity Conservation Area 132

Simien Mountains 88-91Tigray 113-14

history 18-19, 222-3, 224-44

1974 revolution & the Emperor’s fall 238-9

Addis Ababa 32Aksum 93, 96coming of Christianity

227coming of Islam & the

demise of Aksum 227cradle of humanity 224demise of the Derg 240Djibouti 323-4Emperor Haile Selassie

142, 235, 260, 262Emperor Menelik 233-4Emperor Tewodros 231-2Emperor Yohannes 232-3Ethiopia-Eritrea War 241Ethiopian Middle Ages

228Italian occupation 235-7Iyasu 234Kingdom of Aksum 226-7Lalibela & the Zagwe

Dynasty 228Land of Punt 225Oromo migrations & the

Jesuits 230postliberation Ethiopia

237pre-Aksumite

civilisation 225Ras Tafari 234-5rise & fall of Gonder

230-1

recent history 242-4road to Democracy

(1991-95) 241socialist experiment

239-40hitching 297, 329-30HIV/AIDS 301holidays 285, 327Holy Trinity Cathedral 37Hosaina 136-7hot springs

Abiata-Shala Lakes National Park 140

Filwoha Hot Springs 181Lac Abbé 318Lake Afdera 119Mt Wenchi 206Wondo Genet 140

hotels 280Hyena Den 182hyena feeding 196, 198hyenas 198

Iilluminated manuscripts

255Îlot du Héron 308Imet Gogo 90-1immigration 288, 290, 328injera 264-5insect bits & stings 304Institute of Ethiopian

Studies 40insurance 282-3, 326

health 299vehicle 296

internet access 283, 326internet resources 17

health 299-300Irecha 22Irta’ale Volcano 119Islam 227, 253Italian Fort 218Italian occupation 235-7Itang 217itineraries 23-6

Ethiopia & Djibouti’s Grand Tour 23, 23

historical circuit 25, 25southern Ethiopia 24, 24wild west 25, 25

Iyasu 234

JJamia Mosque 194Jan Meda Sports Ground

42

Jijiga 201Jimma 211-14, 212Jimma Museum 212Jinbar Waterfall 88Jinka 166-70John, Prester 128jogging 42Juma’a Mosque 187

KKafa Biosphere Reserve

214-15Kafa Coffee Museum 215Kafira Market 187Kangaten 173-4Karo people 168-9Kassahun, Tewodros 254,

255Kebra Negast 256Kebran Gabriel 75Kenya

travel to/from 291-2visas 288

Key Afar 170Kibish 175Kidane Mehret Church 41Kiddus Yohannes 22King Ezana’s Inscription

100-1King Ezana’s Stelae 99King Gebre Meskel’s

tomb 101King Kaleb’s tomb 101King Solomon’s Gold 211kitfo 265-6Kolcho 173-4Komaya Heart of Konso

Cultural Handicraft Market 162

Kombolcha 131Konso 162-3, 19Konso Kantas 163-6Konso Museum 162Korbete Metia 90Koremi 200Kosoye 86Kulubi 191Kulubi Gabriel 22Kumsa Moroda Palace 207

LLa Faon 309Lac Abbé 10, 318-19, 11Lac Assal 14, 318, 14Lake Abaya 156, 26Lake Afambo 186Lake Afdera 119Lake Asale 119

Lake Awasa 142Lake Babogaya 179Lake Bishoftu 179Lake Chamo 156, 26Lake Chelekleka 179Lake Chew Bet 154Lake Chitu 140Lake Gumare 186Lake Hare Sheitan 136Lake Hora 179Lake Kuriftu 179Lake Langano 139Lake Tana 72-5, 73Lake Wenchi 206Lake Ziway 138-9Lalibela 9, 120-30, 228, 9Lalibela Cultural Center

126Land of Punt 225languages

Amharic 331-8courses 42Djibouti 334

L’Arthur Rimbaud 309Leddet 21, 42legal matters 283, 326Lega-Oda 190Lephis 145-6leptospirosis 301Les Allols 320lesbian travellers 282, 326L’Escale 308LGBTI travellers 282, 326Lion of Judah

Monument 37Lioness of Gobodura 100lions 54, 85literature 222, 238, 256-7Logiya 185Lower Omo Valley 164-74,

165, 12Lucy 33, 224, 240

MMachekie 163Mago National Park 170Majang people 219Malaria 301-3Mandaba Medhane

Alem 85maps 283, 326markets

Addis Ababa 40Animal Market (Aksum)

102Anuak Market 217-18Ashawa Market 187Babille Market 200

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

345IN

DEX -M

-N

Bahir Dar main market 67

Basket Market (Aksum) 101

Chattara Market (Dire Dawa) 187

Chencha Market (Dorze) 162

Crocodile Market (Nechisar) 160

Dire Dawa Market 187Dokatu Market 162Erer Gate Market (Harar)

192Fallana Gate Market

(Harar) 192fish market (Awasa) 142Gidir Magala (Harar) 194Harar 192-3Jinka market 166Kafira Market

(Dire Dawa) 187Kidame Gebya Saturday

Market 79Lower Omo Valley 171main market (Aksum)

101Merkato (Addis Ababa)

41Monday Market (Bati)

131Recycling Market (Harar)

192Shiro Meda Market

(Addis Ababa) 58Shoa Gate Market

(Harar) 192, 10Smugglers’ Market

(Harar) 192Martyrs’ Memorial 116Mary 252Maryam Korkor 109Maryam Papaseit 110Maryam Zion festival

22, 102masenkos 257Masha 209measures 282, 326Medhane Alem

Cathedral 195Medhane Alem Church 218Medhane Alem Kesho 111media 253-4, 282medical services 300Mehelela 102Mekele 116-19, 117Mekina Girgir 194Mekina Medane Alem 126Melka Kunture 137Menagesha National

Forest 217

Menelik, Emperor 45, 233-4

Mengistu 239-40Menz-Guassa Community

Conservation Area 131-2Meqaber Ga’ewa 111Meskel 22Metu 208-9Metu to Tepi scenic drive

209Mikael 252Mikael Barka 112Mikael cemetery 196Mikael Debre Selam 112Mikael Imba 112Mikael Meka’e 111Mikael Milhaizengi 111-12Mille 185minibuses 297Mitsele Fasiladas 75Mizan Tefari 210-11mobbing 285-6mobile phones 16, 327monasteries 72-5

Abba Garima 107Abba Liqanos 102Abba Pentalewon 96Ashetan Maryam 125Azuwa Maryam 74Bete Giorgis 73-4Bete Maryam 73Bete Selassie 74Birgida Maryam 85Debre Damo 106, 261Debre Libanos

Monastery 66Debre Maryam 75Dega Estefanos 75Galila 85Kebran Gabriel 75Mandaba Medhane

Alem 85Mitsele Fasiladas 75Monastery of Abba

Garima 107Narga Selassie 74Tana Cherkos 75Tekla Haimanot 74Ura Kidane Meret 72-3

Monastery of Abba Garima 107

money 17, 283-4, 326monuments

Derg Monument 40King Ezana’s Inscription

100-1Lion of Judah Monu-

ment 37Lioness of Gobodura 100

Martyrs’ Memorial 116Martyrs Memorial

Monument 67Mussolini’s Stele 86Ras Makonnen Statue

194Sidamo Monument 143Tombs of Kings Kaleb &

Gebre Meskel 101Yekatit 12 Monument 41

mosques 253Hamoudi Mosque 308Jamia Mosque 194Juma’a Mosque 187

mosquitoes 301-3, 304motorcycle travel 296-

7, 329Moyale 155-6Mt Bwahit 90Mt Wenchi 206multiculturalism 249-50Mursi people 169museums & galleries

Addis Ababa Museum 41Afewerk Tekle’s Home &

Studio 40Archaeological Museum

(Aksum) 101-2Arthur Rimbaud Center

193Atatami Mikael Church

79Banana Art Gallery 140-1Entoto Maryam

Museum 61Ethiopia-Djibouti Rail

Yard 187Ethnological Museum

32-3Harar National Museum

195Jimma Museum 212Kafa Coffee Museum 215Konso Cultural Centre

162Konso Museum 162Lalibela Cultural Center

126National Museum 33-6Natural History

Museum 41Ras Gimb 79Ras Tafari’s House &

Sherif Harar City Museum 194-5

’Red Terror’ Martyrs Memorial Museum 32

South-Omo Museum & Research Centre 166

St George Cathedral & Museum 36

St Mary of Zion Church Museum 100

Wolega Museum 207Wukro Museum 111Yohannes IV Museum 116Zeghie Satekela

Museum 73music 254-5Mussolini’s Stele 86

NNa’akuto La‘ab 125Nagfa 309Narga Selassie 74National Archives & Library

of Ethiopia 41National Museum 33-6national parks & reserves

275, 277, see also wildlife sanctuaries

Abiata-Shala Lakes National Park 139-40, 140

Awash National Park 181-4, 182

Babille Elephant Sanctuary 200

Bale Mountains National Park 147-52, 148

Borana National Park - Yabelo Wildlife Sanctuary 155

Decan 315Didesa Wildlife

Sanctuary 210Gambela National Park

220Gibe Sheleko National

Park 218Kafa Biosphere Reserve

214-15Mago National Park 170Nechisar National Park

61-159, 160, 26Omo National Park 175-6Senkelle Swayne’s Harte-

beest Sanctuary 141Simien Mountains

National Park 86-93, 88-9

Natural History Museum 41Nechisar National Park

159-61, 160, 26Nechisar Plain 160Nekemte 207-8, 208New Church of St Mary of

Zion 95-6newspapers 282, 326Nine Saints 109

346

IND

EX -N -T

Northern Ethiopia 63-132, 64-5

accommodation 63climate 63food 63highlights 64-5, 64-5travel to/from 66travel within 66

Northern Stelae Field 96-100

Nuer people 219Nyangatom people 169

OObock 322-3Old Church of St Mary of

Zion 96Omo National Park 175-6Omo Valley 164-76Omorate 174opening hours 17, 284, 327Ophir 211Oromo people 245

Ppainting 257-8palaces

Empress Mentewab’s Kuskuam Complex 79

Fasiladas’ Palace 78-9, 262Kumsa Moroda Palace

207Old Palace (Dire Dawa)

187Palace of Abba Jiffar

211-12Palace of Iyasu I 79Ras Makonnen’s Palace

195Susenyos’ Old Palace 85

Pankhurst, Sylvia 37parks & gardens

Addis Ababa Park 42Petit Barra 318Petros We Paulos 111photography 284-5Pioneers Vision 166Plage des Sables

Blancs 321planning

budgeting 17, 314calendar of events 21-22climate 16emergencies 17

Ethiopia’s regions 27-8highlights 8-15internet resources 17itineraries 23-6language 16telephone 16travel seasons 16visas 16

plants 278Plateau du Serpent 308poetry 197, 257politics 222-3population 223Porc-Epic 190Portuguese Bridge 66Portuguese Cathedral 86postal services 285, 327prehistoric sites 224Prester John 128Prince Ruspoli’s turaco 275public holidays 285, 327

QQueen of Sheba 226,

248, 260Queen of Sheba’s Bath 102Queen of Sheba’s Palace

(Dungur) 101Queen Taitu’s Palace 193

Rrabies 303radio 282Raphael 252Ras Bir Lighthouse 322Ras Dashen 90-1, 91-2Ras Gimb 79Ras Makonnen Statue 194Ras Makonnen’s Palace 195Ras Tafari 142, 234, 234-5,

see also Emperor Haile Selassie

Ras Tafari’s House & Sherif Harar City Museum 194-5

Rastafarian Community 140

recycling market 192Red Terror 240Red Terror Martyrs

Memorial Museum 32religion 223, 250-3Rift Valley lakes 138-45Rimbaud, Arthur 193, 197road rules 297rock art sites

Abourma rock art site 322

Lalibela 9, 120-30, 228, 9

Tigray 12, 107-16, 108, 12

rock-hewn architecture 258

rock-hewn churches of Tigray 12, 107-16, 108, 12

Atsibi Cluster 112Gheralta Cluster 109-10Takatisfi Cluster 111-12Tembien Cluster 112Wukro Cluster 110-11

Rome Stele 99Royal Enclosure 78-9, 78

Ssafe travel 58, 285-6, 327Said Ali Hamdogn’s tomb

195saints, Ethiopian 190,

250-2salt mining 120Sankaber 90-1scams 59, 286scarification 174Sebeta 217Selassie, Emperor Haile

142, 235, 260, 262Semera 185Senkelle Swayne’s

Hartebeest Sanctuary 141

Seyon, Amda 233Shashemene 140-2Sheba, Queen of 226,

248, 260Sherif Harar City Museum

194-5shiftas 286Shoa Gate Market 192Sidama people 246Sidamo Monument 143Simien Mountains National

Park 9, 86-93, 88-9, 9singing wells 156slave trade 213Smugglers’ Market 192snake bites 304snorkelling 309socialism 239-40Sodo 137Sof Omar Cave 151Somali people 246Solomon, King 211Sor River Waterfalls 209Southern Ethiopia 133-76,

134-5accommodation 133climate 133food 133

highlights 134, 134-5travel to/from 136travel within 136

South-Omo Museum & Research Centre 166

Southwest Omo Valley 174-6

spas 42stelae 96-100, 137, 153, 19St George Cathedral &

Museum 36St Mary Catholic Church

195St Mary of Zion Churches

Complex 94St Mary of Zion Church

Museum 100St Maryam Church 203street kids 247Surmi people 169, 26Susenyos’ Old Palace 85swimming 42

TTa’akha Maryam 102Tadjoura 321-2Takatisfi Cluster 111-12Tana Cherkos 75tape worms 304taxis 297-8Teddy Yo 254tej 267-8tej bets 55Tekla Haimanot 74, 252Tekle, Afewerk 51telephone services 286,

327Tembien Cluster 112Tepi 209-10tere sega 266Tewodros, Emperor 231-2theft 286Tigrayan people 246Tigray region 107-16, 108Tigrayan rock-hewn

churches 12, 107-16, 108, 12

time 286-7, 327language 336

Timkat 12, 21, 81, 102, 13, 261

tipping 284Tis Abay 81Tiya stelae field 137toilets 287, 327Tomb of Nefas Mawcha

99-100Tomb of Said Ali Hamdogn

195Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

347IN

DEX T-Z

Tomb of Sheikh Abadir 195Tomb of the Brick Arches

97-100Tomb of the False Door 97Tombant Point 309Tombs of Kings Kaleb &

Gebre Meskel 101tourist information 287,

327tours 298, 330

language 336traditional beliefs 253train travel 298, 330transport 17, 290-8

Djibouti 328-30language 336-8

travel seasons 21-2travel to/from Ethiopia

290, 290-3travel within Ethiopia 293-8trekking, see hikingTsemay people 169Tullu Gudo 138turaco 275Turmi 171-2Tuto Fela 153Tutiti 153TV 282, 326

UUra Kidane Meret 72-3

Vvacations 285, 327vaccinations 300-1Valley of Marvels 200vegans & vegetarians 269,

269-70visas 288-9, 290, 328volcanoes

Danakil Depression 15, 119-20, 15

Fantale Crater 181-2Irta’ale Volcano 119

volunteering 42, 80, 289, 328

Wwalking, see hikingWasha Mikael Church 36-7wat 266-7water 304waterfalls

Awash Falls 182Blue Nile Falls 81Guder Falls 207Jinbar Waterfall 88Sor River Waterfalls 209

weather 16, 21-2websites 17

health 299-300weights 282, 326Weliso 214Western Ethiopia 202-20,

204-5

accommodation 202climate 202food 202highlights 204-5, 204-5travel to/from 203travel within 203

Weyto 174whale-shark spotting 14,

22, 309-11, 14wildlife 18, 85, 87, 272-4,

see also individual animals

hyenas 196, 198wolves (Ethiopian)

149, 13wildlife sanctuaries 275,

277, see also national parks & reserves

Babille Elephant Sanctuary 200

Decan 315Didesa Wildlife

Sanctuary 210Senkelle Swayne’s

Hartebeest Sanctuary 141

Yabelo Wildlife Sanctuary 155

wildlife watching 18Babille Elephant

Sanctuary 200Wolega Museum 207wolf (Ethiopian) 149, 13Wolleka (Falasha Village)

80

women in Ethiopia 249women travellers 289Wondo Genet 140work 328Wukro Cherkos 111Wukro Cluster 110-11Wukro Museum 111Wunenia 86

YYabelo 154-5Yabelo Wildlife

Sanctuary 155Yared 252Yeha 113Yekatit 12 Monument 41yellow fever 303Yo, Teddy 254Yohannes, Emperor 232-3Yohannes IV Museum 116Yohannes Maequdi 110

ZZagwe dynasty 228Zege Peninsula 72-4Zeghie Satekela Museum

73Zobel’s Mausoleum 80

348

NO

TESN

OTES -

349N

OTES

350

NO

TES

351

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541536th edition – Sep 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 040 6© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSJean-Bernard CarilletSouthern Ethiopia, Eastern Ethiopia, DjiboutiJean-Bernard is a Paris-based freelance writer and photographer who special-ises in Africa, France, Turkey, the Indian Ocean, the Caribbean and the Pacific. He loves adventure, remote places, islands, outdoors, archaeological sites and food. His insatiable wanderlust has taken him to 114 countries across six conti-nents, and it shows no sign of waning. It has inspired lots of articles and photos

for travel magazines and some 70 Lonely Planet guidebooks, both in English and in French. One of his favourite continents is Africa, which he has travelled the length and breadth of for more two decades and been thoroughly enlightened by 24 of its amazing countries. Jean-Bernard also researched the Understand Ethiopia section.

Anthony HamAddis Ababa, Northern Ethiopia, Western EthiopiaAnthony is a freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US. In 2001, after years of wandering the world,

Anthony finally found his spiritual home when he fell irretrievably in love with Madrid on his first visit to the city. Less than a year later, he arrived there on a one-way ticket, with not a word of Spanish and not knowing a single person in the city. When he finally left Madrid 10 years later, Anthony spoke Spanish with a Madrid accent, was married to a local and Madrid had be-come his second home. Now back in Australia, he continues to travel the world in search of stories. Anthony also researched the Plan Your Trip, Survival Guide and Health sections.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’