behin the scenesbehind the scenes - lonely...
TRANSCRIPT
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AUTHOR THANKSAnthony HamShukran to all of those from Cairo to İstanbul and most places in between who have, on every visit, reinforced my love affair with the region. A heartfelt thanks to my editor Helen Elfer, my coauthors, and to Marina, Carlota and Valentina, my three girls who make coming home the greatest gift in the world. My work on this book is dedicated to Ron, whose visit to Damascus all those years ago made it a true place of the soul.
Sofia BarbaraniThank you to the many local men and women who helped me get my bearings and pointed me towards the region’s more beautiful sights. To all the welcoming families that took me into their homes during my travels, making the Kurdish experience all the more genuine and meaningful. To my Kurdish friends, who gave up their best-kept secrets and took me to their favourite spots for the benefit of the guide. Most of all thank you to Michael Stephens, who was always patient and supportive.
Jessica LeeBig thanks to fellow authors on the Turkey guide: James Bainbridge, Brett Atkinson,
Stuart Butler, Steve Fallon, Will Gourlay, and Virginia Maxwell, and to Jo Cooke for her patience with my acronym queries. And a huge çok teşekkürler to Ömer Yapıs; Kazım and Ayşe Akay and Bekir Kırca; Ömer and Ahmet in Kaş; Meral; and Yakup Kahveci.
Virginia MaxwellMany thanks to Lynne Miller, Lou-Ellen Martin, Dana Nasr, Hala Mansour, Olivier Gougeon, Paul Newson and Ruth Young.
Daniel RobinsonSpecial thanks to Irit Steinberg (Hula Nature Reserve), Riki & Dov Ruckenstein and Moshe Tov Kreps (Tzfat); Etha & Erwin Frenkel (Korazim); Mariana Bravo (Magdala); Moshe Ohz (Tiberias); Nissim Mazig (Kursi); Ayala & Ofer Markman and Roni Barziv (Haifa); Maoz Yinon, Linda Hallel, Sami Jabali & Silke, Emile Emran, Abed and Abu Ayyad of the White Mosque, and Tariq Bsoul of Nazarene Transport & Tourism (Nazareth); Michal and Sivan (Ein Gedi Nature Reserve); Sarinah, Leo, Bella and Shoshana Kalb (Ein Bokek); Asaf Madmony (Ne’ot HaKikar); and, most especially, my wife Rachel and son Yair for their unceasing support, understanding and patience.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Behind the ScenesBehind the Scenes
596
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES
Anthony SattinAmong the many people who have provided assistance, information, advice and gossip during the research and writing of this book, I would particularly like to thank HE Hisham Zaazou, Minister of Tourism to the Egyptian Tourist Authority, and Mrs Omayma El Hus-seini, director of the Egyptian State Tourist Of-fice London; to the experts Ali and Elisabeth at the International Travel Bureau of Egypt; Dr Mounir Neamatalla; Heba Bakri; Christopher Tutty; Rafic Khairallah; Christoph Schleissing; Linda Wheeler; Zeina Abou Kheir; Marwa and Mohammed Abdel Rehim; Tim Baily; Aiman Zaki; and Dr Haitham Ibrahim and Mohamed Ezat of the Egyptian Environmental Affairs Agency.
Andy SymingtonKind help was provided by numerous Iranians but I owe especial thanks to Rosa Khishdoust, Nasser Khan, Hassan Kandovani, Najafi Mehran, Shary Zarrin Panjeh, Amir Abedin-pour, Lourdes Villa Diez, Jo Cooke, Mustafa Hocaoglu, Yousef Shariyat, David Thomson, Mohsen Asadi, Hassan Khakbaz, Massoun Khani, Mary Northmore, Helen Carmichael, YuanYuan Huang, Miguel García, editor Helen Elfer and expert coordinator Anthony Ham. Thanks to my family for their support and to José Eliseo Vázquez González, Michael
Burren and Eduardo Cuadrado Diogo for keeping things going at home while I’m away.
Jenny WalkerReturning to Jordan is always a great pleas-ure, not just on account of the spectacular scenery and ‘wondrous sights’, but also be-cause the people of Jordan are so unfailingly welcoming and optimistic in the face of great challenges. Thanks as ever to all Jordanian friends who have helped over the years of engagement with this chapter and to my beloved husband, Sam Owen, who continues to accompany and support beyond the call of duty during research and write-up.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.
Illustrations pp60–1, pp84–5, pp124–5, pp220–1, pp418–9, pp424–5 and pp446–7 by Javier Zarracina; pp328–9 by Michael Weldon.
Cover photograph: Wadi Rum and Jebel Qatar, Jordan; Michele Falzone/AWL.
THIS BOOK This 8th edition of Lonely Plan-et’s Middle East guidebook was researched and written by coordinating author Anthony Ham, and Sofia Barbarani, Jessica Lee, Virginia Maxwell, Daniel Robinson, Anthony Sattin, Andy Symington and Jenny Walker.
Destination Editor Helen ElferProduct Editor Katie O’ConnellSenior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Book Designer Jennifer MullinsAssisting Editors Kate Chapman, Samantha Forge, Gabrielle Innes, Kate
James, Anne Mulvaney, Charlotte Orr, Monique PerrinAssisting Cartographers Corey HutchisonCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Shahara Ahmed, Angie Mills-Smith, Ilana Myers, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Denis O’Connor, Ellie Simpson, Lauren Wellicome, Kristina West
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 597
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
ABBREVIATIONSE EgyptIn IranIq IraqIPT Israel and the
Palestinian TerritoriesJ JordanL LebanonS SyriaT Turkey
AAanjar (L) 390-1Abbas, Mahmoud 274, 278Abraham 535Abu Simbel (E) 103-4accommodation 568, see
also individual locationslanguage 587, 588, 590,
591Acre, see Akkoactivities 26-9, 40-4, see
also individual activitiesAegean Coast (T) 439-56,
439Agilika Island (E) 102-3air travel 574, 576
Egypt 136Iran 183-4Iraq 208Israel and the Palestinian
Territories 287-8, 289Jordan 353, 354Lebanon 403Turkey 497
airports 21, 574Egypt 74-5, 136Iran 149Iraq 194, 201Israel and the Palestinian
Territories 231, 240, 287Jordan 306, 353
Lebanon 373Turkey 433, 497
Ajloun (J) 310-11Akko (Acre; IPT) 246-8, 247Alamut Valley (In) 154-6Alanya (T) 468-9Al-Bireh (IPT) 264-6alcohol 135, 145, 265, 400,
534, 546, see also drinks, wine
Alexander the Great 505Alexandria (E) 76-82, 78, 80
accommodation 77-9drinking & nightlife 80-1food 79-80history 76information 81orientation 81travel to/from 81-2travel within 82
Al-Haram ash-Sharif (Temple Mount; IPT) 12, 218, 220-1, 220-1, 12, 220-1
Al-Kharga Oasis (E) 104-5Al-Maghtas, see Bethany-
Beyond-the-JordanAl-Qaeda 205, 501, 528Al-Quseir (E) 115-16Amman (J) 294-306, 296,
298-9, 302accommodation 297-9children, travel with 304drinking & nightlife 303emergency services 304entertainment 304food 299-301history 294-5internet access 304media 305medical services 305money 305postal services 305shopping 304sights 295-7telephone services 305tourist information 305
travel to/from 305-6travel within 306
Ani (T) 483animals 25, 281, 557-9Ankara (T) 470-2Antakya (T) 469-70Antalya (T) 464-7, 465Antep, see GaziantepAnzac Cove (T) 442Aqaba (J) 339-44, 340Arab Spring, the 500,
529-31Arabian oryx 558Arabic language 586-8Arafat, Yasser 264, 276-7,
278, 524, 529Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh
(In) 165, 33archaeological sites 40, see
also ruinsAanjar (L) 390-1Abu Simbel (E) 103-4Alamut Castle (In) 155Al-Bass Archaeological
Site (L) 386-7Al-Mina Archaeological
Site (L) 385-6Ancient Bathhouse
Nazareth (IPT) 248Baalbek Ruins (L) 390Byblos (L) 376-7Capernaum 253Catacombs of Kom
ash-Suqqafa (E) 77City of David (IPT) 219Jerusalem Archaeological
Park & Davidson Centre (IPT) 219
Kursi National Park (IPT) 253
Madaba Archaeological Park I (J) 320
Magdala (IPT) 252Masada (IPT) 259-60Memphis, Saqqara &
Dahshur (E) 76Necropolis of Al-Bagawat
(E) 104
Petra (J) 11, 327-37, 328-9, 330-1, 332, 10-11, 328-9
Pyramids of Giza 11, 58-64, 58, 60-1, 11, 60-1
Roman Amphitheatre Alexandria (E) 77
Unfinished Obelisk Aswan (E) 99
Valley of the Kings (E) 88Western Wall Tunnels
Jerusalem (IPT) 219architecture 179, 235, 537-41Armenia 520arts & crafts 72Ashura 29Aswan (E) 97-102, 98, 100
accommodation 99-101food 101information 101-3sights 98-9travel to/from 101-2
Aswan High Dam (E) 103Atatürk, Mustafa Kemal
492-3, 518, 519ATMs 570Avanos (T) 477Aya Sofya (T) 416, 424-5,
424-5, 424-5Ayvalık (T) 442-3Azaris 152Azraq (J) 317-19
BBaalbek (L) 390Babylonian Empire 202Baghdad (Iq) 512Bahariya Oasis (E) 107-8ballooning 14, 40, 476, 14bargaining 133, 182Batroun (L) 378-9Bauhaus architecture 235bazaars, see marketsBazar-e Bozorg (In) 156Bcharré (L) 381-2
598
IND
EX B- C
beaches 25, 46Amman Beach (J) 314Aqaba (J) 341-2Dahab (E) 120-1Eilat (IPT) 261-2Ein Bokek (IPT) 260Ein Gedi Beach (IPT)
258-9Hurghada (E) 113Liman Ağzı (T) 462Nuweiba (E) 126-7Olympos & Çıralı (T) 463Patara (T) 460Red Sea (E) 116, 25Tel Aviv-Jaffa (Yafo; IPT)
234, 17Bedouin people 346beer 265Beirut (L) 15, 359-73, 360,
362, 364, 15accommodation 366-7children, travel with 366dangers & annoyances
372drinking & nightlife
369-71emergency services 372entertainment 371festivals & events 366food 367-9history 359internet access 372media 372medical services 372money 372postal services 372safe travel 372shopping 371sights & activities 359-66tourist information 372travel to/from 372travel within 373
Beit Ad-Din, see Beiteddine Palace
Beit Mery 373-4Beit She’an (IPT) 254-5Beiteddine Palace (L) 14,
387-9, 14Bekaa Valley 390-1belly dancing 71Bergama (T) 443-4Bethany-Beyond-the-
Jordan (J) 313-14Bethlehem (IPT) 18,
267-70, 18
biblical sites & landmarks, see religious sites
bicycle travel 41, 576-7Egypt 136Israel and the Palestinian
Territories 253, 283, 289, 290
Jordan 354Lebanon 404
birds 281, 557-8Black Sea, the 479-84Blue Mosque (T) 417, 7, 15boat travel 44, 575-6, 577,
see also felucca travelEgypt 136Jordan 354Lebanon 404Turkey 429, 459, 497
Bodrum (T) 454-7, 455books 345, 412, 500, 551-3border crossings & check-
points 38-9, 575Egypt 136Iran 184Iraq 208-9Israel and the Palestinian
Territories 268, 288 Jordan 353-4Lebanon 404Turkey 497
Brummana (L) 373-4Bursa (T) 437-9Bush, George H W 204, 529Bush, George W 204bus travel 577, 579
Egypt 137Israel and the Palestinian
Territories 289Iran 183, 184Jordan 354-5, 356Lebanon 404, 404-5Turkey 497-8
business hours 21, see also individual countries
Byblos (L) 375-8, 376Byzantine Empire 492-8,
508
CCaesarea (IPT) 241Cairo (E) 51-75, 56-7, 62-3,
66-7, 70-1, 23accommodation 64-7drinking & nightlife 69emergency services 72entertainment 69-71etiquette 68food 67-9history 51
medical services 72money 72orientation 72shopping 71-2tourist information 72tours 64travel agencies 72-3travel to/from 73-4travel within 74-5walking tours 65
call to prayer 534camel rides 337camping 117, 250, 253,
282, 568Çanakkale (T) 439-40canyoning 40, 316, 321Cappadocia (T) 14, 474-9,
475, 4, 14, 42car & motorcycle travel
564, 577-8Egypt 137Iran 184Israel and the Palestinian
Territories 289-90Jordan 355Lebanon 404Turkey 498
carpets 139, 148, 160, 174, 175, 179
castles & fortresses 23, see also palaces
Ajloun Castle (J) 310Alanya Castle (T) 468Aqaba Fort (J) 339Castle of Herod the
Great (J) 323Castle of St Peter (T)
454Citadel of Raymond de
Saint-Gilles (L) 380Crusader Gallery &
Crusader’s Gate (J) 324
Diyarbakır City Walls & Gates (T) 485
Eastern Desert (J) 317Herodium (IPT) 270-1Kadifekale Izmir (T) 444Kale Gaziantep (T) 490Khanzad Castle (Iq)
194-5Marmaris Castle (T) 457Nimrod Fortress (IPT)
254Qala’At Ar-Rabad (J) 310Qasr Kharana (J) 319Qasr al-Azraq (J) 318Qasr al-Hallabat Fort
(J) 316Qusayr Amra (J) 319
Salahaddin’s Fortress (Iq) 195
Shobak Castle (J) 326Uçhisar Castle (T) 477Van Castle (T) 484
cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals
Çavasın (T) 477caves 196, 270, 313, 331,
374, 381, 476cedar trees 400Cedars, the (L) 382-3cell phones 573Chak Chak (In) 166checkpoints, see
border crossings & checkpoints
children, travel with 45-6, 584-5, see also individual countries
Chouf Mountains (L) 387-9Christianity 279, 536Christmas 26, 29churches & cathedrals
540-1, see also monasteries, religious sites
Akdamar Kilisesi (T) 485Basilica of St John (T)
448-9Basilica of the
Annunciation (IP) 248Church of All Nations
(IPT) 223Church of Mary
Magdalene (IPT) 224Church of St John the
Baptist (L) 377Church of St Sergius and
Bacchus (E) 54Church of the Apostles
(J) 320Church of the Ascension
(IPT) 219-23Church of the Holy
Sepulchre (IPT) 214-15
Church of the Nativity (IPT) 268
El Nazar Kilise (T) 475Ethiopian Monastery
(IPT) 216Greek Orthodox Church
of the Annunciation (IPT) 248
Hanging Church (E) 54Lutheran Christmas
Church (IPT) 268Maronite Cathedral of St
George (L) 363Milk Grotto Chapel
(IPT) 269Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
599IN
DEX C
- HMoses Memorial Church
(J) 322Mount of the Beatitudes
(IPT) 252St Anne’s Church (IPT)
216St Catherine’s Church
(IPT) 268St George Greek
Orthodox Cathedral (L) 363
St George’s Church (J) 320
St James’ (Jacques’) Cathedral (IPT) 217
St Mary’s Syrian Orthodox Church (IPT) 268
St Peter’s Church (IPT) 235
Tabgha (IPT) 252Virgin Mary Church
(J) 320cinema, see filmÇıralı (T) 463-4climate 20, 26-9, see also
individual locationscoffee 546coffeehouses 547Constantine 492consulates, see embassies
& consulatescourses
cooking 333-4, 423, 475diving & snorkelling 41Kabbalah 256language 402
credit cards 570Crusades, the 511-12currency 20, see also
money, individual countries
current affairs 500-1customs regulations 568-9cycling, see bicycle travel
DDahab (E) 120-3, 121Dahshur (E) 76Dakhla Oasis (E) 106dangers & annoyances, see
safety, theftDarband (In) 144Dead Sea 16, 258-60,
313-16, 560, 16Dead Sea Scrolls 226, 259Deir Al-Qamar (L) 389Dendara (E) 96-7Derinkuyu (T) 477Desert Castles (J) 317, 318desertification 560
deserts 22, 41, 556Black Desert 105Negev Desert 260-4Wadi Rum 12, 337-9, 13White Desert 105
Didyma (T) 453diphtheria 582disabilities, travellers
with 573Egypt 134Israel and the Palestinian
Territories 286Jordan 352
discount cards 569diving & snorkelling 24,
40, 41-3Egypt 113, 115, 117,
122, 127Israel and the Palestinian
Territories 261Jordan 340-1Turkey 462
Diyarbakır (T) 485-6Doğubayazıt (T) 483-4Dome of the Rock 12, 218,
220-1, 220-1, 12, 220-1drinks 546-7, see also
alcohol, winedriving licences 577Dukan (Iq) 197
EEaster 26, 548Eceabat (Maydos; T) 441economy 501Edfu 97Edirne (T) 437Efes, see EphesusEgypt 47, 50-137, 52-3
accommodation 131border crossings 136business hours 133children, travel with
45, 131cinema 130currency 51discount cards 131electricity 135embassies & consulates
132exchange rates 51food & drink 131, 132-3highlights 52-3, 52-3history 128-30itineraries 30, 35, 75,
30, 35language 133, 586-8literature 130media 135
money 133music 131opening hours 133politics 128, 500population 51, 130public holidays 133-4religion 130safety 134, 565shopping 134telephone services
51, 134tourist information 134travel to/from 136travel within 136-7visas 51, 134-5weather 50websites 51weights & measures 135
Egyptian Museum 54Eid al-Adha 28, 572Eid al-Fitr 27, 572Eilat (IPT) 261-4, 261, 262Ein Bokek (IPT) 260Ein Gedi (IPT) 258-9El Alamein (E) 77electricity, see individual
countriesembassies & consulates
569, see also individual countries
emergencies, see individual locations
En Boqeq, see Ein Bokekenvironmental issues
556-60Ephesus (T) 446-7, 450,
446-7, 448, 446-7Erbil (Iq) 188-94, 190, 19Erzurum (T) 480-2, 481Esfahan (In) 12, 156-61,
158, 12, 23Esna (E) 97etiquette 562-3, 571events 26-9
FFarafra Oasis (E) 106-7Farsi language 588-94felucca travel 13, 89, 99,
102, 13. see also boat travel
ferry travel, see boat travelfestivals 26-9, 549Fethiye (T) 458-9film 27, 29, 500, 549-51,
Iran 180Lebanon 397
fish 558-9food 542-8, see also
individual locations
bread 542-3desserts 545etiquette 562language 587, 588-9,
590, 592meat 544-5rice 545salads 543street foods 543-4vegetarian & vegan
travellers 544, 545fortresses, see castles &
fortressesfossils 378fuel 577-8
GGadara, see Umm QaisGali Ali Beg (Iq) 195-7Galilee (IPT) 248, 255-8,
249, 256galleries, see museums &
galleriesGallipoli (Gelıbolu)
Peninsula (T) 441-2, 441
gay travellers, see LGBT travellers
Gaza Strip, the (IPT) 273Gaziantep (T) 489-91, 490Gazor Khan 155-6Gelıbolu, see Gallipoli
PeninsulaGiza (E) 58-64, 58, 60-1,
60-1Golan Heights (IPT) 255-8,
256Göreme (T) 474-6Grand Bazaar İstanbul (T)
416-7Grand Bazaar Tabriz (In)
18, 151, 18Gulf War (1991) 204-5, 528Güvercinlik Valley (T) 477
HHagia Sofia, see Aya SofyaHaifa (IPT) 241-6, 242-3HaKinneret (IPT) 248,
252-3, 249Hamas 274-3, 277, 278, 531Hamilton Road (Iq) 195-7hammams 24, 272, 380,
423, 472Hanukkah 29Hariri, Rafiq 395Harran (T) 488Hatay, see Antakyahealth 581-5heat exhaustion 583
600
IND
EX H- J
Hebrew language 589-91hepatitis A 582hepatitis B 582Hezbollah 277, 385, 394, 531hiking 24, 40, 43
Israel and the Palestinian Territories 283
Iran 155Jordan 316, 325, 333,
337, 349Lebanon 389, 401Turkey 460
history 6, 502-31, see also individual countries
1948 Arab-Israeli War 276, 522
1967 Six Day War (IPT) 213, 276, 522, 525
1979 Islamic Revolution (In) 178, 526
1991 Iraq War 204-5, 5282003 Iraq War 187, 195,
527, 531Arab Spring, the 500,
529-31Babylonian Empire 202Byzantine Empire 492-8,
508Iran-Iraq War 203Lebanese Civil War
393, 527Ottoman Empire 302,
492, 512-17Phoenician Empire 503Sumerian history 202,
502-3WWI 517, 518WWII 520hitching 578-9
Iran 184Israel and the Palestinian
Territories 289Jordan 355
holidays 572hookah, see sheeshahorse riding 43, 89, 337hot-air ballooning, see
ballooningHurghada (E) 112-14Hussein, Saddam 187,
199, 203-5, 522, 526, 527, 528
IIhlara Valley (T) 477insurance 570, 578, 581
internet access 570Iran 47, 138-85, 140-1
accommodation 138, 180business hours 182currency 139economy 177embassies & consulates
180-1emergencies 139etiquette 183exchange rates 139food 138, 175food & drink 178-9health 181highlights 140-1, 140-1history 177-8insurance 181internet access 181itineraries 32, 32language 139legal matters 181money 139, 181-2opening hours 182politics 176-7, 501population 139postal services 182safety 565sights 139-44shopping 179telephone services 182time 139travel to/from 183travel within 183-5visas 139, 182
Iran-Iraq War 203Iraq 47, 186-209, 187
accommodation 206budgeting 207business hours 207climate 186currency 188electricity 207embassies & consulates
207exchange rates 188food 207highlights 187, 187history 187-8, 193, 202-5internet access 207itineraries 34, 34language 188, 206media 207money 207opening hours 207politics 187-8, 202, 500-1population 188, 205-9public holidays 207religion 205
safety 565telephone codes 188telephone services 208travel to/from 208-9visas 208weather 186websites 208weights & measures 207
Iraq War (1991) 204-5, 528Iraq War (2003) 187, 195,
527, 531Iraqi Kurdistan,
see KurdistanIrbid (J) 311-12IS, see IsisIsis 187-8, 202, 409,
501, 531Islam 279, 532-4, 538-41,
572Islamic holidays 572Islamic Revolution (In)
178, 526Islamic State, see IsisIsrael and the Palestinian
Territories 48, 210-90, 211
accommodation 282-3business hours 285children, travel with
45, 283cinema 280climate 210culture 281currency 213customs regulations 283dance 280embassies & consulates
283-4environment 281-92exchange rates 213food 237, 280-1, 285government 278highlights 211, 211history 274-7, 518-21, 522internet access 284itineraries 31, 212, 31language 213, 281literature 279media 284mobile phones 213, 286money 213, 284-5music 280opening hours 285peace process 501politics 273-4, 278, 501population 213, 277-8public & religious
holidays 285religion 278-9safety 565
telephone codes 213telephone services 286theatre 280travel to/from 287-9travel within 289-90visas 213, 286weather 210websites 213weights & measures 284
Israeli passport stamps 404
İstanbul (T) 15, 416-36, 420-1, 426-7, 430-1, 434-5, 15
accommodation 423-9cooking courses 423dangers & annoyances
433drinking & nightlife
432-3emergency services 433food 429-32medical services 433money 433postal services 433sights 416-23tourist information 433tours 423travel to/from 433travel within 436
itineraries 30-5, 30-5, see also individual countries
İzmır (T) 444-5
JJaffa, see Tel Aviv-JaffaJaffa Gate (IPT) 217Jbail, see ByblosJenin (IPT) 272-3Jerash (J) 19, 307-10,
308, 19Jericho (IPT) 266-7Jerusalem (IPT) 212-31,
214-15, 222-3, 224, 28
accommodation 226-8drinking & nightlife 229entertainment 229-31food 228-9history 212-13medical services 230-1safe travel 230sights 213-26tourist information 230tours 226travel to/from 230-1travel within 231websites 227
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
601IN
DEX J- M
Jesus of Nazareth 252, 274-5, 279, 508, 536, see also religious sites
Jewish history 226Jewish religion,
see JudaismJewish settlements 266Jordan 48, 291-356, 292-3
accommodation 348, 349
activities 349arts & crafts 347books 345business hours 350children, travel with
45, 349currency 294customs regulations 349embassies & consulates
349environment 348exchange rates 294food & drink 347-8, 349highlights 292-3, 292-3history 344-6internet access 350itineraries 30, 31, 295,
30, 31language 294media 350money 294, 350opening hours 350photography 351politics 344, 501population 294, 346-7postal services 351public holidays 351religion 347safety 565telephone code 294telephone services
294, 351time 351toilets 351tourist information 351tours 305travel to/from 353-4travel within 354-6visas 352weather 291websites 294weights & measures 350
Jordan River 314Jounieh (L) 375Judaism 278-9, 534-6, 547-8
Kkababs 175Kabbalah 256
Kalkan (T) 461Kandovan (In) 153Kapadokya (T),
see CappadociaKarak (J) 324-5Kars (T) 482-3Kaş (T) 461-3kayaking 40, 44, 257, 461-2Kaymaklı (T) 477Kayseri (T) 478-9Khan al-Khalili (E) 58, 23Khan, Genghis 177, 510Kharanaq (In) 166Khomeini, Āyatollāh
Ruhollāh 526kibbutzim 283, 286-7King Abdullah 346King Hussein of Jordan 527King’s Highway 319-27Kom Ombo (E) 97Konya (T) 473-4Koran, the 533Kurdish people, the 530Kurdistan region 188-201,
189Kuşadası (T) 452-3
LLailat al-Mi’raj 572Lalish (Iq) 196landmines 286landscape 556-60language 20, 586-94
Arabic 586-8courses 402Farsi 588-9Hebrew 589-91Turkish 591-2
Lawrence of Arabia 337Lebanese Civil War 393,
527Lebanon 48, 357-405, 358
accommodation 357, 400-1
activities 401architecture 398business hours 402cinema & TV 398climate 357currency 359electricity 402embassies & consulates
401environment 400exchange rates 359food 357, 388, 399-400,
401highlights 358, 358history 391-6
itineraries 34, 34language 359literature 397-8media 402money 402music 398opening hours 402politics 391, 501population 359, 396,
396-7public holidays 402religion 397safety 565telephone services 403travel to/from 403-4travel within 404-5visas 403visual arts 398-9weather 357websites 403weights & measures 402women travellers 403
lesbian travellers, see LGBT travellers
LGBT travellers 569-70Egypt 133Iran 181Israel and the Palestinian
Territories 284Jordan 349-50Lebanon 402Turkey 495
life expectancy 501literacy rates 501literature 500, 551-3Luxor (E) 16, 82-96, 84-5,
86-7, 90-1, 16, 84-5accommodation 91-3dangers & annoyances 95drinking & nightlife 94-5food 93-4medical services 95money 95shopping 95tourist informatin 95tours 90-1travel to/from 95-6travel within 96
MMachaerus (Mukawir; J) 323Madaba (J) 319-22malaria 582Mardin (T) 486-7marine life 558-9markets 22-3
Akko Souq (IPT) 246Bazar-e Vakil (In) 165Carmel Market (IPT) 234
Grand Bazaar İstanbul (T) 416-17
Grand Bazaar Tabriz (In) 18, 151, 18
Khan al-Khalili (E) 58, 23Mahane Yehuda Market
(IPT) 225Qaysari Bazaar (Iq) 191Spice Bazaar İstanbul
(T) 421Sulaymaniyah Grand
Bazaar (Iq) 199-200Tehran Bazar (Ir) 139Tel Aviv Flea Market
(IPT) 235Tripoli souqs (L) 380
Marmaris (T) 457-8Marsa Alam (E) 116-17Masada (IPT) 259-60Mashhad (Iq) 172-6, 173Masjed-e Jameh (In) 156,
162, 2, 23Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah
(In) 156, 12media, see individual
countriesmemorials 226, 385Memphis (E) 76Mesopotamia 202, 502Meybod (In) 166mezze 399, 494, 542, 543Miletus (T) 453Mitzpe Ramon (IPT) 260-1Mo’allem Kalayeh (In) 155mobile phones 20, 573,
see also individual countries
Mohammed 12, 218, 275, 279, 508, 510, 532-4
monasteries, see also churches & cathedrals
Deir el-Qalaa (L) 373Mar Saba Monastery
(IPT) 271Monastery of St Simeon
(E) 99Monastery of the
Qurantul (IPT) 267Qadisha Valley 382Rabban Beya Monastery
(Iq) 195St George’s Monastery
(IPT) 266St Katherine’s Monastery
(E) 18, 123-6, 124-5, 18, 124-5
Sumela Monastery (T) 479
money 20, 569, 570-1, see also bargaining, tipping, individual countries
602
IND
EX M- M
Morsi, Mohammed 530Moses 126, 274, 322, 535mosques 22, 538-41, see
also religious sites72-Martyrs (Shah)
Mosque (In) 174Al-Azhar Mosque (E)
55-7Al-Husseiny Mosque
(J) 296Al-Kebir Mosque (IPT)
271Al-Muallaq Mosque
(L) 380Al-Omari Mosque (L) 365Aya Sofya (Trabzon;
T) 479Blue Mosque (T) 417,
7, 15Ibrahimi Mosque (IPT)
270Jalil Khayat Mosque
(Iq) 191Kabud Mosque (In) 151Kasımiye Medresesi
(T) 487King Abdullah Mosque
(J) 296Masjed-e Jameh (In) 156,
162, 2, 23Masjed-e Nasir-al-Molk
(In) 166Masjed-e Shah (In) 156Masjed-e Sheikh
Lotfollah (In) 156, 12Masjed-e Vakil (In) 166Masjid Jenin al-Kabir
(IPT) 273Mausoleum of Al-Ghouri
(E) 57-8Mohammed al-Amin
Mosque (L) 363Mosque of Ibn Tulun
(E) 58Mulla Afandi Mosque &
Citadel Bath (Iq) 191Rüstem Paşa Mosque
(T) 422Selimiye Mosque (T) 437Sulaymaniyah Grand
Mosque (Iq) 200Süleymaniye Mosque
(T) 417Sultan İsa (Zinciriye)
Medresesi (T) 487Sultan Murat II
(Muradiye) Camii (T) 438
Sultanahmet Camii (T) 417, 7, 15
Taynal Mosque (L) 380Tripoli Great Mosque
(L) 380Ulu Cami (Erzorum; T)
482, 485Ulu Camii (Bursa; T) 438Yeşil Camii (T) 438
motorcycle travel, see car & motorcycle travel
Mount of Remembrance (IPT) 226
mountain biking, see bicycle travel
mountains 556Goyje Mountain (Iq) 199Mount of Remembrance
(IPT) 226Mt Ararat (T) 484Mt Gerizim (IPT) 272Mt Nebo (J) 322-3Mt Nemrut (T) 489, 33Mt Sinai (E) 18, 126, 18
Mubarak, Hosni 500museums & galleries
Alexandria National Museum (E) 76-7
American University of Beirut (AUB) archaeological museum (L) 365
Amna Suraka (Red Security; Iq) 199
Animalia (E) 97Antalya Museum (T) 464Anthropology Museum
(Ir) 174Aramgah-e Shah-e
Cheragh (Ir) 165, 33Aya Sofya (İstanbul; T)
416, 424-5, 424-5, 424-5
Aya Sofya Museum (Trabzon) (T) 479
Azarbayjan Museum (In) 151
Bauhaus Center (IPT) 235
Beit Hatfutsot (IPT) 235Bible Lands Museum
(IPT) 226Bibliotheca Alexandrina
(E) 76Carter’s House & the
Replica Tomb of Tutankhamun (E) 89
Cheops Boat Museum 59Clandestine Immigration
& Naval Museum (IPT) 242
Coptic Museum 54
Dar As Saraya Museum (J) 311
Darat al-Funun (J) 295Ebrat Museum (Ir) 143Edessa Mosaic Museum
(T) 487Edirne Archaeology &
Ethnography Museum (T) 437
Egyptian Museum (E) 51-4
Emine Göğüş Culinary Museum (T) 490
Ephesus Museum (T) 445
Eretz Israel Museum (IPT) 235
Ethnography Museum Izmir (T) 444
Fethiye Museum (T) 458Gaziantep Defence and
Heroism Panoramic Museum (T) 490
Gaziantep Zeugma Mosaic Museum (T) 489
Gibran Museum (L) 381Göreme Open-Air
Museum (T) 475Güpgüpoğlu Konağı
(T) 478Hatay Archaeology
Museum (T) 469Hecht Museum (IPT) 241Hezbollah resistance
monument (L) 385Israel Museum (IPT) 226İstanbul Archaeology
Museums (T) 417İstanbul Modern (T) 422Jordan Museum (J) 297Jordan National Gallery
of Fine Arts (J) 296-7Karak Islamic Museum
(J) 324Kaymakamlar Müze Evi
(T) 472Kurdish Textile Museum
(Iq) 191Luxor Museum (E) 88Madaba Museum (J) 320Marmaris Museum
(T) 457Mevlâna Museum (T)
473Mit Rahina Museum
(E) 76Museum and Archives of
Education (Iq) 191Museum of Anatolian
Civilisations (T) 470Museum of Antiquities
(E) 104
Museum of Archaeology & Anthropology (J) 311
Museum of Innocence (T) 422
Museum of Seljuk Civilisation (T) 478
Museum of the History of Jerusalem 217 (IPT)
Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts (T) 417
Museum of Wooden Artefacts and Stone Carving (T) 473
Museum on the Seam (IPT) 225
National Museum of Beirut (L) 361
National Museum of Iran (In) 142-3
Nubia Museum (E) 98Old Bethlehem Museum
(IPT) 269Reza Abbasi Museum
(In) 144Robert Mouawad Private
Museum (L) 361-3Rockefeller Museum
(IPT) 225Sakıp Sabancı Mardin
City Museum (T) 486Samaritan Museum
(IPT) 272Sardam Gallery (Iq) 200Shrine of the Beheading
of John the Baptist (Latin Church; J) 320
Slemani Museum (Iq) 199
Suna & İnan Kıraç Kaleiçi Museum (T) 464
Sursock Museum (L) 365Syriac Heritage Museum
(Iq) 191Tehran Museum of
Contemporary Art 144Tel Aviv Museum of Art
(IPT) 231Tikotin Museum of
Japanese Art (IPT) 241Tile Museum (T) 473Treasury of National
Jewels (In) 143Yad Vashem (IPT) 226Yakutiye Medrese (T)
481Zelve Open-Air Museum
(T) 477music 27, 29, 553-5,
see also individual countries
Muslim Brotherhood 500, 530Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
603IN
DEX N
- RNNablus (IPT) 271-2Naqsh-e Rostam (In) 172nargileh, see sheeshaNasser, Gamal Abdel
523, 524national parks & nature
reserves 558Ajloun Forest Reserve
(J) 311Azraq Wetland Reserve
(J) 318Banias Nature Reserve
(IPT) 254Caesarea National Park
(IPT) 241Coral Beach Nature
Reserve (IPT) 261Dana Biosphere Reserve
(J) 325-6Ein Gedi Nature Reserve
(IPT) 258Gallipoli Historical
National Park 441Hamat Tveriya National
Park (IPT) 250Hula Nature Reserve
(IPT) 254Kursi National Park
(IPT) 253Makhtesh Ramon Nature
Reserve (IPT) 260Mujib Biosphere Reserve
(J) 316Nemrut Dağı Milli Parkı
(T) 489Ras Mohammed National
Park (E) 117Shaumari Wildlife
Reserve (J) 318Shouf Biosphere Reserve
(L) 389-90Tel Dan Nature Reserve
(IPT) 254Travertines (T) 453Uludağ National Park (T)
437, 42Nazareth (IPT) 248-50Negev Desert (IPT) 260-4Nemrut Dağı (T) 489, 4, 33Netanyahu, Binyamin 274,
278, 529Nevruz 26Nile River 13, 13, see also
felucca travelNile Valley (E) 82-104Nuweiba (E) 126-8
Ooases 22
Al-Kharga Oasis (E) 104-5
Bahariya Oasis (E) 107-8Dakhla Oasis (E) 106Ein Gedi (IPT) 258-9Farafra Oasis (E) 106-7Siwa Oasis (E) 108-10Western Oases (E)
104-10Ölüdeniz (T) 460Olympos (T) 463-4opening hours 21, see also
individual countriesOttoman Empire 302, 492,
512-17
Ppalaces, see also castles &
fortressesBeiteddine Palace (L)
387-9, 14Dolmabahçe Palace
(T) 422İshak Paşa Palace (T)
483Mamluk Palace and
Mosque (J) 324Topkapı Palace (T)
416, 418-19, 418-19, 418-19
Palestine Liberation Organization (PLO) 276, 524
Palestinian Territories, see Israel and the Palestinian Territories
Pamukkale (T) 453-4paragliding 44, 460parks & gardens 154
Aswan Botanical Gardens (E) 99
Bagh-e Dolat Abad (In) 162
Bagh-e Eram (In) 166Baha’i Gardens (IPT) 241Centre International
Marie de Nazareth (IPT) 248
Garden of Gethsemane (IPT) 223
Garden Tomb (IPT) 225Güllüdere Valley (T) 475HaPisgah Gardens (IPT)
235Martyr Sami
Abdul- Rahman Park (Iq) 191-2
Minaret Park (Iq) 191Shanadar Park (Iq)
191, 19Sulaymaniyah (Iq) 200
Paşabağı (T) 477Pasargadae (In) 172
Passover 26passports 574
Israeli passport stamps 36-9, 404
Pergamum (T) 443-4Persepolis 15, 170-2,
171, 15Petra (J) 11, 327-37, 328-9,
330-1, 332, 10-11, 328-9
accommodation 333-5drinking & nightlife
335-6food 335history 327-30itineraries 334night tours 335orientation 336shopping 336tickets 327tourist information 336-7travel to/from 336-7travel within 336
Philae (E) 102-3Phoenician Empire 503photography 571-2Pigeon Valley (T) 477planning 20-1
activities 26-9, 40-4calendar of events 26-9children, travel with 45-6countries 47-8itineraries 30-5, 30-5weather 20, 26-9websites 21
poetry 179-85, 551-2pollution 560Port Said (E) 110-11postal services, see
individual countriesprayer 534press freedom 176Priene (T) 453Prophet Mohammed 12,
218, 275, 279, 508, 510, 532-4
Prophet’s Birthday 29, 572Purim 26Pyramids of Giza (E) 11,
58-64, 58, 60-1, 11, 60-1
QQadisha Valley (L) 381-2qanats 161Qazvin (In) 153-4Qumran (IPT) 259Quran, the 533
Rrabies 583Rabin, Yitzhak 277, 527, 529rafting 257Ramadan 27, 547, 572Ramallah (IPT) 18, 264-6Red Sea Coast (E) 112-
16, 25refugees 344, 391, 392,
492, 529-31religion 532-6, 562-3,
see also individual religions, Jesus of Nazareth, Mohammad, Moses, religious sites
religious sites 24, see also churches & cathedrals, mosques, synagogues
Al-Haram ash-Sharif (Temple Mount; IPT) 12, 218, 220-1, 220-1, 12, 220-1
Baptism Site of Jesus Christ (J) 313-4
Basilica of the Annunciation (IPT) 248
Bethlehem Old City (IPT) 268
Capernaum (IPT) 253Church of Mary
Magdalene (IPT) 224Church of the Ascension
(IPT) 219-23Church of the Holy
Sepulchre (IPT) 214Church of the Nativity
(IPT) 268Dome of the Rock 12,
218, 220-1, 220-1, 12, 220-1
Garden of Gethsemane (IPT) 223
Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation (IPT) 248
Hebron (Al-Khalil) & the Tomb of the Patriarchs (IPT) 270
Jacob’s Well (IPT) 271-2King David’s Tomb
(IPT) 218Kursi National Park
(IPT) 253Manger Square (IPT)
268Mount of Olives (IPT)
219-24Mount of Temptation
& Monastery of the Qurantul (IPT) 267
Mount of the Beatitudes (IPT) 252
604
IND
EX R- T
religious sites continuedMt Nebo (J) 322-3Mt Sinai (E) 126Nabi Musa (IPT) 266Pool of Bethesda (IPT)
216Room of the Last Supper
(IPT) 217Sea of Galilee (IPT) 252-3Shrine of the Beheading
of John the Baptist (Latin Church; J) 320
Site of Jesus’ Baptism (J) 313-4
Taybeh (IPT) 265Tell Elias (J) 314Temple Mount (Al-Haram
ash-Sharif; IPT) 12, 218, 220-1, 220-1, 12, 220-1
Tomb of the Virgin Mary (IPT) 224
Tree of Zacchaeus (IPT) 266
Via Dolorosa (Stations of the Cross; IPT) 216
Western Wall (IPT) 219rivers 556-7road conditions 578Rose (Güllüdere) & Red
(Kızılçukur) Valleys (T) 477
Rosh Hashanah 28ruins, see also
archaeological sitesAgora Izmir (T) 444Ancient Olympos (T)
463Antiphellos Theatre
(T) 462Asclepion (T) 443Aspendos (T) 467Ayla (J) 339Bergama Acropolis
(T) 443Eastern Desert (J) 317Ephesus (T) 446-7, 450,
446-7, 446-7Göbekli Tepe (T) 487Hammam as-Sarah
(J) 316Hierapolis Pamukkale
(T) 453Hisham’s Palace (IPT)
267Jerash (J) 19, 307-8, 19Patara (T) 460
Perge (T) 467Persepolis 15, 170-2,
171, 15Red Hall (T) 443Roman Theatre Side
(T) 468Tel al-Sultan (Ancient
Jericho; IPT) 266Tell Elias (J) 314Temple of Artemis
(T) 449Temples of Apollo &
Athena (T) 468Umm al-Jimal Ruins
(J) 319Umm Qais (J) 312
Rumi 180
SSadat, Anwar 523, 526safaris 40, 41Safed, see Tsfatsafety 564
Egypt 134, 135, 565Iran 164, 180Iraq 206Israel and the Palestinian
Territories 230, 285-6, 287
Jordan 351Lebanon 372, 380, 384,
390, 402-3Syria 565Turkey 496
Safranbolu (T) 472Saida, see Sidonsailing 40, 44. see also boat
travel, felucca travelŞanlıurfa (T) 487-9Saqqara (E) 76Sea of Galilee (IPT) 248,
249security, see safetySelçuk (T) 445-52, 451sexual harassment 567, see
also women travellersShabbat 535Shaqlawa (Iq) 195Sharm el-Sheikh (E) 117-20Sharon, Ariel 277, 527, 529Shechem, see Nablussheesha 547Shiite Islam 533Shiraz (In) 165-70, 168-9Shobak (J) 326-7shopping, see individual
locationsshrines
Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh (In) 165, 33
Haram-e Razavi (In) 172-4
Side (T) 467-8Sidon (L) 383-4Silk Road, the 519Sinai (E) 116-28, 128, 118-19Siwa Oasis (E) 108-10Six Day War 213, 276,
522, 525skiing 40, 44
Iran 148Lebanon 382-3Turkey 437, 42
smokingEgypt 135Israel and the Palestinian
Territories 284Jordan 350Turkey 496
snorkelling, see diving & snorkelling
souqs, see marketsSour, see TyreSphinx (E) 64spas 315St Katherine’s Monastery
(E) 18, 123-6, 124-5, 18, 124-5
Suez (E) 111-12Suez Canal 110-12, 523Sukkot 29Sulaymaniyah (Iq) 197-201,
198Sumerian history 202,
502-3Sunni Islam 533swimming 314-15, 341-2synagogues 540
Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue (IPT) 255
Beit Alpha Synagogue (IPT) 254
Ben Ezra Synagogue (E) 54
Caro Synagogue (IPT) 255
Syria 48, 406-12, 407books 412civil war 406-12, 500documentaries 412politics 500-1population 406refugees 392, 406safety 565websites 412
TTaba (E) 128Tabriz (In) 149-55, 150
Tafila (J) 325taxis 579-80
Egypt 137Iran 185Iraq 209Israel and the Palestinian
Territories 290Jordan 355, 356Lebanon 404-5
Taybeh (IPT) 265tea 546Tehran (In) 139-49, 142-3,
146-7accommodation 144-5drinking & nightlife 147-8food 145-7information 148orientation 148shopping 148sights 139-44travel to/from 148-9travel within 149
Tel Aviv-Jaffa (Yafo; IPT) 17, 231-41, 232-3, 236, 238, 17
accommodation 236-7activities 235-6drinking & nightlife
238-9entertainment 239food 237-8information 239-40medical services 239orientation 239shopping 239sights 231-5travel to/from 240travel within 240-1websites 240
telephone services 21, 572-3, see also individual countries
Temple Mount 12, 218, 220-1, 220-1, 12, 220-1
templesAbu Simbel (E) 103-4Byblos (L) 376-7Deir al-Bahri (E) 88Great Temple of Ramses
II (E) 103-4, 28Karnak (E) 83, 16Luxor Temple (E) 83-8Medinat Habu (E) 89Ramesseum (E) 89Temple of Echmoun
(L) 385Temple of Hathor (E) 96Temple of Hathor (E) 104Temple of Horus (E) 97
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
605IN
DEX T- Z
Temple of Isis (E) 102-3Temple of Khnum (E) 97Temple of Kom Ombo
(E) 97theft 565, see also safetyThousand and One Nights,
The 553Tiberias (IPT) 250-2, 251time 20, 571tipping 571
Egypt 133Iran 182Israel & the Palestinian
Territories 281Jordan 350Lebanon 402Turkey 495
toilets 182, 351, 573tombs
Kabbala Tombs Tsfat (IPT) 255
King David’s Tomb (IPT) 218
Naqsh-e Rostam (In) 172Persepolis (In) 171Petra (J) 328-9, 331,
333, 328-9, 328-9Tomb of Amyntas (T) 458Tomb of Rabbi Meir Ba’al
Hanes (IPT) 250Tomb of Sheikh Adi ibn
Musafir (Iq) 196Tombs of the Nobles
(E) 88Tomb of the Patriarchs
(IPT) 270Tomb of the Virgin Mary
(IPT) 224Tomb of Yasser Arafat
264Torah, the 535tourist information 573,
see also individual locations
tours 576, see also individual locations
Tower of David (IPT) 217Trabzon (T) 479-80train travel 580
Egypt 137Iran 183, 185Israel and the Palestinian
Territories 290Turkey 498
transport, see travel to/from the Middle East,
travel within the Middle East
travel advisories 565, see also safety
travel to/from the Middle East 21, 574-6, see also individual locations
travel within the Middle East 21, 576-80, see also individual locations
travellers cheques 571Tripoli (L) 379-81Troy (Truva; T) 440Tsfat (IPT) 255-8tuberculosis 583Turkey 17, 48, 413-98,
414-15accommodation 494business hours 495children, travel with 45climate 413currency 417customs regulations 494electricity 496embassies & consulates
494-5exchange rates 417food & drink 493, 493-4,
495highlights 414-15,
414-15history 492-3, 518itineraries 32, 34, 416,
32, 34language 417, 493media 496mobile phones 417money 495opening hours 495politics 491-2, 501population 417, 493postal services 495public holidays 495religion 493safety 565telephone services 496travel to/from 497travel within 497-8visas 417, 496weather 413websites 417weights & measures 496
Turkish language 591-2Tutankhamun 54, 89
typhoid 583Tyre (L) 385-7, 386
UUmm Qais (J) 312-13Unesco World Heritage sites
Abu Simbel (E) 103Akko (Acre; IPT) 246Baalbek (L) 390Bagh-e Eram (In) 166Baha’i Gardens (IPT) 241Erbil Citadel (Iq) 189-91Göreme Open-Air
Museum (T) 475Luxor (E) 83Pamukkale (T) 453-4Persian Gardens (In)
154, 172Petra (J) 11, 327-37,
328-9, 330-1, 332, 10-11, 328-9
Pyramids of Giza (E) 11, 58-64, 58, 60-1, 11, 60-1
Qadisha Valley (L) 381Qusayr Amra (J) 319Saqqara (E) 76St Katherine’s Monastery
(E) 18, 123-6, 124-5, 18, 124-5
Syria 411Tabriz Bazaar (In) 151Tel Aviv Bauhaus
architecture (IPT) 235Tyre (Sour; L) 385
urbanisation 346-7Urfa, see ŞanlıurfaÜrgüp (T) 477-8
Vvacations 572vaccinations 581Valley of the Kings (E) 88Van (T) 484-5vegetarian & vegan
travellers 544, 545visas 20, 36-8, see also
individual countriesvolunteering 40, 286-7, 573
WWadi Mujib (J) 323-4Wadi Musa (J) 327-37, 332Wadi Rum (J) 12, 337-9, 13
water 559, 583Egypt 135Iran 161Israel and the Palestinian
Territories 282waterfalls
Banias Nature Reserve (IPT) 254
Bekhal Waterfall (Iq) 197Gali Ali Beg Waterfall
(Iq) 196-7Ein Gedi Nature Reserve
(IPT) 258Mujib Biosphere Reserve
(J) 316water sports 44, 283, see
also individual sportsweather 20, 26-9, see also
individual locationswebsites 21, see also
individual locationsweights & measures, see
individual countriesWest Bank 264-73, 271whirling dervishes 473wildlife 25, 281, 557-9windsurfing 27, 44, 25wine 381, 388, 400, 546women travellers 566-7,
585Egypt 135Iran 183Iraq 208Israel and the Palestinian
Territories 287Jordan 352Lebanon 403Turkey 496-7
work 352-3World Heritage sites, see
Unesco World Heritage sites
WWI 517, 518, see also Gallipoli Battlefields
WWII 520
YYafo, see Tel Aviv-JaffaYam Kinneret (IPT) 248,
252-3, 249Yazd (In) 161-5, 162yellow fever 583Yom Kippur 28
ZZionism 507, 519
606
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
U-Bahn/Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationS-Bahn/S-train/Subway stationTaxi
Train station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
Tube station
LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Mudflat
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
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