Bee Social Bee Prepared event with Bee Together 2015 01 13

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<ul><li><p>Bee Together </p><p>Bee Social - Bee Prepared Meeting 13 January 2015 </p><p>Table 1: Session for People Intending to Set Up a Beehive in 2015 Led by Joe Molitor </p><p>The participants at the table were: Barbara Fischer, Kerry Goergen-Todd, Priit Rohusaar, David Xavier </p><p>Summary written by Kerry Goergen-Todd and reviewed by John and Hubert. </p><p>Introductions and Sharing Beehives A group of 3 participants will be sharing bee hives, which are already under the care of one of the </p><p>group, a man from Roodt-Syre (or in that area). He has some experience already, has 2 hives and his </p><p>two friends will be joining him now and sharing the care. They are also expecting to acquire more </p><p>colonies in spring 2015. </p><p>Priit had hives in Estonia and would like to continue with beekeeping in Luxembourg. He moved here </p><p>recently and is living in the city limits. He inherited the colonies in Estonia when he bought a house </p><p>there so they were already well established hives and he share some of his experiences. </p><p>Generally, our discussion was more of an introductory round with each of us sharing our how did you </p><p>get into beekeeping stories. </p><p>Mentoring We discussed mentoring, who to ask for help and for Priit the biggest worry was where would he be </p><p>able to keep his bees often a problem for people living in the city or in built-up areas. We </p><p>recommended talking to foresters or farmers, though this is quite easy when you live out in the </p><p>countryside but for people in the city it is a bit of an issue who you consult when looking for </p><p>somewhere to keep your bees. Joe did mention that finding a place would never be a problem but we </p><p>had to admit that for someone that is not in the Luxembourgish bee clubs it can be much trickier, </p><p>obviously due to language and access to the contact details. </p><p>Varroa and Winter Preparation We discussed how we had treated our bees for Varroa and prepared them for winter and also shared </p><p>our worries whether our colonies will make it through the winter. </p><p>There is some information on varroa here which will be updated in late February 2015. </p><p>If you are interested in hearing more about varroa and bees, you may be interested in the annual bee </p><p>conference in FR and DE on varroa sensitive hygiene: </p><p>Bee Informed - Annual Conference - 28me Colloque apicole international </p><p>Sunday, March 29, 2015 from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM </p><p>Please register. </p></li><li><p>Bee Together Bee Social - Bee Prepared Meeting 13 January 2015 </p><p>beetogetherlux@gmail.com 2 </p><p>Table 2: I intend to come to the Theory Courses and Start a Beehive in 2015 Led by Andreas Reichart </p><p>The participants at the table were: Monica Andersson, Christian Bintener, Carol McCarthy, Laura and </p><p>Gianfranco Margaria Picchietti (Picchi) </p><p>Summary written by Carol McCarthy and reviewed by John and Hubert. </p><p>What causes varroa to be worse in some years than others? Varroa are worse in years when spring comes early, so in 2014 spring was very early and in 2014 the </p><p>varroa were much worse than in 2013 when spring was cold and very late. When spring is early the </p><p>varroa mite has a longer season to develop and spread. </p><p>What are the best ways to control the varroa mite? Answer: a three pronged summer attack followed by winter treatment </p><p>a) Cut drone brood out of frames before they hatch. Varoa particularly like drone brood and enter it </p><p>before it's capped. By cutting it out (i.e. removing the infected drones from the hive) this prevents the </p><p>varroa surviving on the hatched drone and thus reduces the infestation in the hive early in the season. </p><p>b) Treat new brood frames before they are capped with either 3.5% oxalic acid or 15% lactic acid (both </p><p>products are considered organic). Only when you make new colonies, treat them after 4 weeks when </p><p>the new queen is laying and also feed the colony. The colony will start with only with few varroas. </p><p>c) Treat after honey harvest at the end of July / beginning August. </p><p>Depending on the size of the colony, a tube filled with up to 300ml of formic acid (Nassenheider </p><p>classic). The tube is positioned diagonally in the hive, so that with the warmth from the bees it </p><p>evaporates. Leave it there for 11-12 days. Feed after this treatment (do not treat for 14 days) and then </p><p>repeat the whole process for a second time. You can use also dispenser which you put on the top of </p><p>the frames (Liebig Dispenser or Nassenheider Professional). </p><p>d) Winter treatment. On 21 December or a day or two later or before (when it's 1-2C) take a syringe </p><p>filled with 50ml of oxalic acid and drip this solution onto the bees in the gaps between the frames. </p><p>It is best to work with an experienced beekeeper to have a practical session to see how to apply these </p><p>products. </p><p>What made my colony leave the hive in the autumn/early winter? There are a some </p><p>dead bees but not the whole colony, where have they gone and why? Probably the colony was heavily infested with varroa (and with virus) and they left to go and die </p><p>somewhere away from the hive. </p></li><li><p>Bee Together Bee Social - Bee Prepared Meeting 13 January 2015 </p><p>beetogetherlux@gmail.com 3 </p><p>How should I now clean and prepare the hive for the new season? The frames must be dewaxed with a steam cleaning process. The inside of the hive (if they are </p><p>wooden) should be flamed till it is brown but not burnt and black. This treatment will ensure the hive is </p><p>rid of any disease or mites. Otherwise you can use hot 3% sodium hydroxide solution. </p><p>Table 3: I intend to come to the Theory Courses and I Would Like to Work with </p><p>a Mentor Led by Hubert von Dewitz </p><p>The participants at the table were: Evgenia Balamoti, Steve Brabbs, Annemie Debackere, Crista Filip, </p><p>Amanda Surbey, Tiffany Vickers, Guillaume Pier </p><p>Summary written by Steve Brabbs and reviewed by Evgenia, Hubert and John. </p><p>Hubert who has 10 hives of Langstroth with local bees. </p><p>Beekeeping Federation FUAL Federation of Luxembourg Beekeeping Clubs has about 300 members and it is divided into 12 regional </p><p>groups based on the different Cantons / Communes. The local clubs (i.e. Cantons) can offer advice </p><p>and mentoring and can help you find a place to keep bees if you dont have a place. </p><p>Where can you have a hive? A beehive should be at least 10 m from a neighbours boundary in residential areas, or there has to be </p><p>a hedge or solid fence at least 2 m high. You should be a good neighbour and talk to them if there are </p><p>problems. It is best if they face south or south-east to catch the early sun and get the hive warmed up </p><p>in the morning. They should be protected from winds and should not be in the bottom of a valley or </p><p>depression where cold air can collect. </p><p>Following this meeting, Hubert clarified the requirements about obtaining permission to have a beehive. </p><p>In all cases you should obtain a permit to have bees whether they are in a city/village or in the </p><p>countryside - see the end of this document. </p><p>What bee races are kept in Luxembourg? The honeybee in latin is Apis mellifera. </p><p>An indigenous bee to Europe is the black bee (mellifera), but they have the reputation as being quite </p><p>aggressive so is only kept by particular enthusiasts. Another indigenous bee to Europe is the Carnica </p><p>(carnica) bee from Austria and Italian (ligustica) bees. A hybrid, called Buckfast, created by a German </p><p>monk at Buckfast Abbey in England, is very popular. Buckfast bees breed fast, have high honey </p><p>production and dont swarm often. </p><p>Local bees are bees where the queen has been fertilised by whatever males (drones). That is, the </p><p>queen has not been artificially inseminated by humans to produce a pure race or a Buckfast. </p><p>When do bees swarm? Bees swarm when they outgrow the hive so you have to add supers (wooden boxes) to give them </p><p>more space. A grill (the queen excluded) separates the brood box where the larva are, from the honey </p><p>supers so the queen cant get in to lay eggs in the honey supers. When a super is added, you can put </p></li><li><p>Bee Together Bee Social - Bee Prepared Meeting 13 January 2015 </p><p>beetogetherlux@gmail.com 4 </p><p>in a few frames with bits of honey left in it to encourage the bees to go up into it. Sometimes a colony </p><p>can become aggressive or increase their tendency to swarm through breeding with other bees in the </p><p>area, so then you might have to change the queen to get back to the pure strain. </p><p>Where do you get hives, queens, equipment etc, and how much does it cost? 30 years ago you had to build your own hives from plans and there was little or no help. Now there are </p><p>many different suppliers and bee clubs to help. You need plenty of space to store all the equipment, </p><p>especially if you have your own honey extractor. </p><p>Hives cost about 150-200 or you can get self-assembly kits which are cheaper. Then you need sting </p><p>proof overall/hood (50), gloves (20), a smoker (30) and a few tools. The price of a colony of bees </p><p>will depend on the season and you can usually get them from other local bee keepers who have </p><p>swarms. You can reckon ~300 for a hive and colony. If you want a honey extractor, that would be </p><p>500 - 800. </p><p>A list of beekeepers who supply bees is here. A list of Buckfast suppliers is here. Carnica contact </p><p>luc.santer@epf.lu. </p><p>What kind of hives are there? There are several different designs but most used here are Deutsch Normal (tall and narrow), Dadant </p><p>with 10 or 12 frames, Zander, and Langstroth. Deutsch Normal and Zander are easy because brood </p><p>and supers are the same size. Its best to stick to one system so all parts are interchangeable. </p><p>What about organic honey? Organic means that the bees are: </p><p> In a beehive where the queen is not separated from the honey supers; </p><p> Fed organic sugar / syrup; and </p><p> Treated against the varroa mite using organic products such as formic acid and oxalic acid. </p><p>As the bees forage up to 3km from the hive, the beekeeper has little control over the gardening </p><p>practices of people and the agricultural practices of farmers. That is, the nectar and pollen collected by </p><p>the bees when they forage may contain herbicides and pesticides. </p><p>When should you start a new hive? In May or June. </p><p>To prevent a split hive moving back to its old hive, move it a long way from the original (e.g. 3km or </p><p>more) for a few days, then move it back. </p><p>How long does it take for the different bees to hatch? A queen is hatches after 16 days and can live for 4 to 5 years. Workers take 21 days and males, </p><p>drones, take 24 days, and each lives for several weeks. If you take a few frames of bees with eggs out </p><p>of a hive and put them in a new hive with no queen, they will produce a new queen. </p><p>How far will bees fly to forage? 2 to 4 km depending on the weather. </p></li><li><p>Bee Together Bee Social - Bee Prepared Meeting 13 January 2015 </p><p>beetogetherlux@gmail.com 5 </p><p>What are the steps to start keeping bees? Order everything you need towards the end of the year so you have everything for the next season. </p><p>When you get the hive, paint it, put wax in the frames and then set everything up ready for when you </p><p>get the bees in May/June. Dont expect to get honey in the first year. Feed through the first winter and </p><p>treat against varroa, and add a second brood box. You can get honey from the second year if all goes </p><p>well. In case you are lucky, you might be able to buy a colony with all frames for the brood box. In this </p><p>case you can expect honey in the first year. Check www.apis.lu Verkauf von Bienen </p><p>What to avoid? Bees will be more aggressive in thundery weather. Dont use perfume/aftershave or wear dark clothes. </p><p>If you heat honey the Hydroxymethylfurfural (HMF) value increases and it becomes poisonous to bees, </p><p>so if you warmed honey to help get it out of the comb, dont use this to feed your hives. </p><p>Table 4: I have no experience with beekeeping and bees Led by Marc Thiel </p><p>The participants at the table were: Marissa Daruwalla, Mireille Di Tullo, Martins Jansons, Sasha Kehoe, </p><p>Elsa Kjartansdottir, Vero Kohnen, Tony Miles, Raymond Paul, Francois and Laure Picouleau, Moira </p><p>and Philippe Potgieter, Teresa Shourie </p><p>Summary: No one volunteered to write a summary :- ( </p><p>Table 5: I have no experience with beekeeping and bees, and I am Interested </p><p>in Natural Beekeeping Led by John Park and Massimo Sabbatucci </p><p>The participants at the table were: Nicola; Dot and John Bekker; Zeynep Birsen; Pavol Homola; Steve </p><p>and Siobhan Lane; John Park; Massimo Sabbatucci; Martin Stiller; Dominique Sweetnam </p><p>Summary written by Dominique Sweetnam and reviewed by Steve and John </p><p>All members of the group were asked to present themselves and explain their reasons for coming. </p><p>They ranged from people who had always wanted to keep bees, to other just coming for general </p><p>information or because they are particularly concerned with the environment and the roles of bees </p><p>within this. </p><p>Introduction from John about Bee Together Group of beekeepers in Luxembourg from different local beekeeping clubs, interested in educating </p><p>people about beekeeping, and the importance of pollinators and habitat protection, and providing </p><p>information to people in English. </p><p>2015 is the first year they organised theory courses in English for those interested in becoming </p><p>beekeepers. </p><p>2013 was the first year where practical hands-on sessions were organised by SIAS. </p></li><li><p>Bee Together Bee Social - Bee Prepared Meeting 13 January 2015 </p><p>beetogetherlux@gmail.com 6 </p><p>Bee Together wants to provide a structure of more experienced beekeepers providing demonstrations </p><p>and mentoring for new beekeepers. </p><p>It will also help new beekeepers find land for their hives, in some cases with the support of the nature </p><p>and environment association, natur&amp;mwelt. </p><p>Bee Together can also provide information on the suppliers of equipment and bees: hives, colonies, </p><p>and organic products for treating the Varroa parasite. </p><p>Beekeeping can be divided into 2 styles: </p><p>Bee-friendly: more respectful of the bees' lifecycle, less handling of the bees and hives, more natural. </p><p>Beekeeper-friendly: more conventional approach, may require more handling of the bees, more often, </p><p>and likely easier to extract products such as honey. </p><p>The group was asked to propose some questions which were regrouped into themes and discussed. </p><p>Main types of Hives in Luxembourg General </p><p> Requires regular checking (once every week or once every 2 weeks); </p><p> Have about 40,000 to 60,000 bees per hive during the summer; and </p><p> Requires treatment against the Varroa parasite. </p><p>Dadant-Blath or Deutsch Normal: </p><p> Beekeeper-friendly; </p><p> Conventional style hives, generally with prepared wax frames; </p><p> Additional boxes are added on top; </p><p> The comb frames can be more easily removed and examined; and </p><p> To extract the honey the frames are put in a centrifuge. </p><p>Warr - an example of a top-bar hive (used by John and Massimo): </p><p> more Bee-friendly hives; </p><p> Bees have to build the entire comb from Toblerone-shaped wooden bars; </p><p> Additional boxes are added underneath; </p><p> To extract the honey, the combs are crushed, then filtered several times; and </p><p> Johns hives are made of Larch wood. </p><p>If you would like more detailed information on the beehive systems, please contact us. </p><p>About bee...</p></li></ul>