Small Hexagonal Picnic Table Plan

Overall outline

This table can seat 6 adults very comfortably. The table top measures 47” (1190mm)to the parallel sides. The widest point from seat corner to seat corner is 93” (2.36m.)It is very simple to construct because all of the angles on the table are 60 degrees.Even with a minimum of tools it should take no more than a day to build.

Tools Required

1) Electric circular saw. (Skilsaw) (However if you have access to a powercompound miter saw, the project will be quicker, easier and more accurate.)

2) A drill and hole saw to make the hole for the umbrella.3) Hammer. (And / or a nail gun for framing.)4) Tape measure. Nail punch. Small hand plane. Adjustable square. Pencil.5) Six foot (2m) Straight edge. (Just a piece of straight lumber will do.)

The Lumber

There are two sizes of lumber required.Framing & LegsAll the framing is made from ex 2*4” (100*50mm) which when dressed finishes up as 11/2*3 1/2” (90*45mm).Seats & TopThe other size required is ex 1 1/2”* 6” (150*40mm) which when dressed finishes at1/1/4” *5 1/2”. This is used for the seats and the table top.

The lumber needs to be treated to prevent it rotting when exposed to ground and weatherelements. Pine is probably the best option however redwood, cedar, kwila or other exoticlumber can be used.

These sizes are readily available however if you wish to vary the size of the lumber youjust have to adjust some of your measurements.

Materials required

a) 300 galvanized 3” flathead (75mm) nailsb) 72’ (22m) Pine Lumber 2*4 (100*50mm) dressed and treated.c) 77’ (24m) Pine Lumber 1 1/2*6 (150*40mm) dressed and treated.

This is the actual material that goes into the table. You will need a little more to coverwaste although waste is minimal because there are many short pieces used in theconstruction. Wherever possible cut the longer pieces first to optimize use of the lumber.

Step by step construction

It is advisable to do each step in logical order and only cut the pieces required for the nextstage rather than cutting the whole table out all at once.

Check all of your measurements against the ones in the plan because any angles cutslightly different can mean that the next cuts may have to be slightly smaller or larger tomake things fit properly. It is extremely easy to get an angle slightly out even on a mitersaw. If you want your project to look professional, take your time and aim for an accuratefit. Much will need to be ”measure and fit”.

Before fixing each board, use the small hand plane to put a slight bevel on the showingedge. This takes the furriness off the saw cut and improves the look.

Step 1

Top frameCut 6 pieces of 2*4” (100*50) to 25” (635mm) at the longest part. The cut is made in the2*4 through the short side. (Standing on edge.) The angle at each end is 60 degrees. (30degrees on your saw.) See diagram A.

On a flat level floor nail the 6 pieces together making sure that the angles fit tightly. Put 2nails on one side and one on the other.

Step 2

Support FrameMeasure across all of the diagonals and adjust so that the frame is “square” . Thenmeasure the size from the inside of one diagonal to the opposite. Cut a piece of 2*4”(100*50mm) on its flat with 60 degree angled ends to fit accurately, ensuring that theframe does not move. Then measure and cut each of the other diagonals as shown indiagrams B & C NOTE Take care not to nail any nails through the centre where theumbrella hole is to be bored.

Step 3

LegsCut out 6 legs at 32” (810mm) with parallel angles at each end as shown in diagram D

Cut out 6 seat supports at 18 1/2” (465mm) with opposite angled ends as shown.Cut out 6 seat braces at 11” (280mm) with opposite angled ends as shown.

All angles are 60 degrees. Cut 1” (25mm) off the bottom of each leg rail as shown indiagram D.

Nail the seat support and seat brace to the leg for all of the 6 legs. The seat support isattached 12 1/2” (320mm) down from the top of the leg. Punch all of the skewed nailsthat are protruding.

NB( It is quite a good idea to make up a jig out of waste bits on which to assemble thelegs. In this way they will all be exactly the same without having to measure or adjust anyof the angles.)

Step 4

Attaching the legsFit each assembled leg to each corner of the hexagonal frame making sure it is sitting flaton the 2*4” (100*50) support frame. Make sure it is also touching the mainframe edges.Put in one nail just to hold in place. Use a straight edge to line up the opposite side legsand secure with another 2 nails each.

Now measure the distance between the top of each leg (Where it is attached to thesupport frame.) accurately. This is to fit a top of leg support and needs to fit nice andfirm. The gap will vary by small amounts depending on how accurate the legs have beenplaced. Cut and place and nail all of these in. (See diagram E)

Step 5

Attaching the leg support braceThis little piece needs to be cut at 12” (300mm) square at first (90 degrees). It is then cutat the 30 degree mark on the saw however it is cut end on and both ends are cut. Youneed to set up and clamp a guide on the saw to be able to do this accurately. (You mayneed to temporary nail the pieces to a workbench if you are using a circular saw.)

This support brace will set the legs to 120 degrees and ensure that all of the legs are thesame angle. It also has the effect of stiffening up the table top.

Picture showing all 2*4 frame work complete upside down.

Picture showing all frame work upright.

Step 6

Marking top and drilling hole

Turn the table over so that it is upright and sitting on its legs. Using a straight edge, rule aline on the framing top from each corner to its opposite corner. This is where the table topboards will line up to. It forms a point in the centre where the umbrella hole is to bedrilled also.

Drill the umbrella hole using a hole saw of 2 1/2” (55mm). It will be easier to do this nowrather than do the complete hole when the table top is on. (At the end when finished, thetop board can be drilled from underneath until the drill bit comes through. Then finishfrom the top.)

Step 7

The table top

There are several methods of attaching the table top. Here are two;

Simple topThis is the quickest and easiest. It does not form a hexagon on the table top. Instead thetable top boards all run the same way.

If you do not have the equipment to saw all of the angles accurately to make a hexagon,or you are not so confident, then you can simply start in the middle and put one 1 1/2*6”board right across making sure that it extends beyond each side of the frame by at least 2”(50 mm).

Then put the next ones in place up tight against the previous one until all of the top iscovered.

Now measure accurately 1 1/2” (40 mm) beyond the frame and rule a pencil line. Tack aguide board on the top from one corner to the next corner allowing the correct distancethat your circular saw needs to be able to cut straight along the line. Repeat thisprocedure with all of the sides and then tidy up with the hand plane.

Hexagonal topThis makes your table look classy. You already have the lines drawn as to where thecorners line up to on the top side of the main frame. These are the lines that each sector ofthe hexagon needs to line up with.

Cut 4 table top boards with 60 degree opposing angles at each end to the followingdimensions:Outside board 27 1/2” (700mm)Second board 21 1/2” (550mm)Third board 15” (380mm)Last board 8” (200mm)

Place the outside board 1 1/2 “ (40mm) outside the frame of the table The board will beabout 2” (50 mm) wider than required by the pencil segment on the frame. (1” (25mm)over each side.) Place it accurately in position and nail on with 4 nails.

Place the next board hard up against the first and nail it in also. Continue to put all fourboards on fitting them tightly against each other. (They are overlapping the line at themoment.) The last little triangle will take it to the centre hole.

Now using your straight edge and square, mark exactly the line on top of the boards thatreflects the pencil line underneath and draw the line.

From this line measure accurately the distance that your circular saw needs to be set at fora guide board to be tacked into place. See picture.

As you start sawing against the guide board check to see that you are actually cuttingalong the line before going too far.

Now place the saw guide board on the other side and cut this also. You now have onesegment complete and accurate.

Smooth the edges with a hand plane.

Now cut the next set of 4 boards to the same dimensions. If your saw cutting is accuratethe boards should fit perfectly into the angle made by the segment already in place. If it

does, great! Simply nail each board in place. If it doesn’t fit perfectly, you will have to dosome minor sawing adjustments until it does fit accurately

When you have all 4 boards nailed into place, use the straight edge and square to line upthe outer edge of the sector. Then once again mark the position for the saw guide, tack inplace and then using the circular saw, cut the edge straight.

Continue until you have 5 sectors all securely nailed. With the last segment you will haveto measure and cut each one in turn starting from the outside and working your way in.Once again there will be minor adjustments to make to get everything to fit accurately.

Step 8Attaching the seatsMake sure that the top of the table is level. If it is sagging at all, put a temporary boardbetween the floor and the under side of the table top to get it to the correct level height.

Now measure off the distances between the end of each seat support accurately withoutmoving them. (They will be different distances.)

Add all 6 measurements up and divide by 6. You will come up with an average distancebetween each leg support. This will ensure that all of the legs are equidistant.

Now, cut the six 1 1/2*6” (150*40mm) outside seat boards 1/2” (13mm) longer than theaverage gap from centre to centre so that the seat board will extend just beyond the seatsupport. Mark the centre of all of the seat supports. Place all of the outside seat boards onand tack in place with one nail on each corner. Adjust the seat support so that the seatsmeet in the middle. If everything fits well, nail the boards on, 2 nails per board. Check tosee that the overhang is the same on each leg support. Some adjustments may also berequired here to get it all to fit accurately.

Leave a gap of 1/2” (13mm) between the outside seat board and the inside one. (Use aspacer to get it accurate.) The measurement for all the inner board long side should be thesame however it is very easy to get slight inaccuracies so it is better to measure and cuteach one in turn to ensure accuracy. Put each board in place and mark the exact distanceto the next. This way all of the seat boards will fit exactly. Once again tack them in placeand when they are correct nail them home.

Remove the temporary support under the table. The table cannot sag any more becausethe seats are in place.

Step 9

Finish drilling the umbrella hole from underneath until nearly through. Then finally finishit off from the top if you can see where to position the hole saw drill bit.

Tidy up any sharp corners with a plane.

Step 10

Open the champagne, sit down at your brand new “pride and joy” and celebrate.

This plan is copy write material and is not to be reproduced in any way without consultation fromezpicnictableplans.com

Opportunity

If you have the desire, ability, equipment and facilities to be able to manufacturethese picnic tables, for resale, please let us know.

We are looking for businesses or individuals in many areas who we can direct thosepeople who would love to have a picnic table like these but do not have quite theability or equipment to be able to make it them selves.

We are setting up licensed manufacturers of the tables and could well be looking forone in your area.

We would direct the customers to you and you would produce the table for them. Inreturn you would pay us a royalty fee for each one sold.

If you are interested please contact us giving details of your background and yourspecific location.

Reply to; Philipinfo@ezpicnictableplans.com