basic knits, fabrics

28
Basic Weft Knitted Fabric • Single Jersey • Rib • Interlock • Purl

Upload: shyam-s-sam

Post on 12-Apr-2015

486 views

Category:

Documents


35 download

DESCRIPTION

BASIC WEFT KNITTED FABRICS, INTERLOCK, PURL, KNIT

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Basic Weft Knitted Fabric

• Single Jersey• Rib• Interlock • Purl

Page 2: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Single Jersey

Why Single Jersey Fabric Curl

Page 3: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Single JerseyProperties of Single Jersey Fabric:

• The fabric has distinct face side and back side

• Curl or Roll of fabrics at edges occur; i.e. towards the face side on top and bottom and towards back side on side.

• Thickness of fabric is twice the diameter of the of yarn used

• Extensible in widthwise is approximately twic than height.

Page 4: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Single Jersey

Single Jersey Structure and Knitting notation

Page 5: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Single Jersey

Derivatives of Single Jersey:

1. Le Coste2. Cross tuck (variation of Le Coste)3. Satin 4. Knitted twill5. Honey Comb6. Popcorn7. Jersey Blister8. French terry9. Thick Fleece10. Ribbed Effect11. Plaiting12. Seer Sucker Effect13. Plush

Page 6: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Single Jersey

Graphical Representation of some of Single Jersey variation

Page 7: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Rib Knitting

Rib Loop Structure Structure with Machine bed and Needle

Page 8: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Rib KnittingProperties of Rib Fabric:

• 1 X1 rib has the appearance of the technical face of plain fabric on both sides until stretched to reveal the reverse loop wales in between

• 1X1 rib is balanced by alternate wales of face loops on each side; it therefore lies flat without curl when cut.

• Relaxed 1 X 1 rib is theoretically twice the thickness and half the width of an equivalent plain fabric, but it has twice as much width-wise recoverable stretch.

• The rib machine also requires finer yarn than a similar gauge plain machine.

• Like all weft-knitted fabrics It can be distinguished from plain by the fact that the loops of certain wales are withdrawn in one direction and the others in the opposite direction, whereas the loops of plain are always withdrawn in the same direction, from the technical face to the technical back.

Page 9: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Properties of Rib Fabric:

• In practice, 1 X 1 rib normally relaxes by approximately 30 per cent compared with its knitting width.

• It is a more expensive fabric to produce than plain.

• Rib cannot be unmoved from the end knitted first because the sinker loops are securely anchored by the cross-meshing between face and reverse loop wales. This characteristic, together with its elasticity, makes rib particularly suitable for the extremities of articles such as tops of socks, cuffs of sleeves, rib borders of garments, and stolling and strapping for cardigans. Rib structures are elastic, form-fitting, and retain warmth better than plain structures.

Rib Knitting

Page 10: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Rib Knitting

Knitting Action

Page 11: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Rib Knitting

1X1 Rib Structure and Knitting notation

Page 12: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Rib KnittingNeedle timing

Needle timing is the relationship between the loop-forming positions of the dial and cylinder needles measured as the distance in needles between the two stitch cam knock-over points.

Collective timing adjustment is achieved by moving the dial cam-plate clockwise or anti-clockwise relative to the cylinder; individual adjustment at particular feeders (as required) is obtained by moving or changing the stitch cam profile.

There are 3 types of needle timimg:1. Synchronized timing 2. Delayed timing3. Advanced timing

Page 13: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Rib KnittingDerivatives of Rib Fabric:

1. 2X2 Rib ( See Diagram)2. 3X1 Rib3. 3x2 Rib4. 3x3 Rib 5. 5x2 Rib6. 6x3 Rib ( See Diagram)7. 7X3 Rib8. Full Cardigan9. Half Cardigan or Royal cardigan

Most commonly used Machine gauge are 16E and 18E and cotton yarn used normally of 30’S, 34’S………

Page 14: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Rib Knitting

Derivatives of Rib Fabric:

Page 15: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Interlock

Properties of Interlock Fabric:• Interlock has the technical face of plain fabric on both sides, but its

smooth surface cannot be stretched out to reveal the reverse meshed loop wales because the wales on each side are exactly opposite to each other and are locked together.

• Each interlock pattern row (often termed an ‘interlock course’) requires two feeder courses, each with a separate yarn that knits on separate alternate needles, producing two half-gauge 1X1 rib courses whose sinker loops cross over each other. Thus, odd feeders will produce alternate wales of loops on each side and even feeders will produce the other wales.

• It is a balanced, smooth, stable structure that lies flat without curl.

Page 16: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Interlock

Interlock Loop Structure

Page 17: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Interlock

Interlock Loop Structure with Machine bed and Needle

Page 18: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Properties of Interlock Fabric:

• Like 1 X 1 rib, it will not unrove from the end knitted first, but it is thicker, heavier and narrower than rib of equivalent gauge, and requires a finer, better, more expensive yarn.

• Productivity is half, less feeders can be accommodated, and there are finer tolerances.

• When two different-coloured Interlock fabric structure yarns are used, horizontal stripes are produced if the same colour is knitted at two consecutive feeders, and vertical stripes if odd feeders knit one colour and even feeders knit the other colour.

Interlock

Page 19: Basic Knits, Fabrics

An interlock machine must have the following:

1. Interlock gating, the needles in two beds being exactly opposite each other so that only one of the two can knit at any feeder.

2. Two separate cam systems in each bed, each controlling half the needles in an alternate sequence, one cam system controlling knitting at one feeder, and the other at the next feeder.

3 Needles set out alternately, one controlled from one cam system, the next from the other; diagonal and not opposite needles in each bed knit together.

Interlock

Page 20: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Interlock

Cam Setting of Interlock Machine

Page 21: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Interlock

Derivatives of Interlock Fabric:

1. Sigle Pique2. Ponte Di Roma3. Otoman Rib4. Bourrelet5. Texi Pique6. Pin tuck 7. Single Blister8. Double Blister9. Millano

Most commonly used Machine gauge are 24E and 28E and cotton yarn used normally of 34’S, 40’S………

Page 22: Basic Knits, Fabrics

InterlockDerivatives of Interlock Fabric:

Page 23: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Gaiting

Gaiting - the spacing of the needles in the dial and the cylinder in relation to each other on rib and interlock machines.

• In rib knitting, the needles of the cylinder are between the

needles of the dial.

• In interlock gaiting, the needles of the cylinder are directly opposed to the needles in the dial (opposed to each other)

Page 24: Basic Knits, Fabrics

PurlProperties of Interlock Fabric: • Purl structures have one or more wales which contain both face and

reverse loops.

• When relaxed, the face loop courses cover the reverse loop courses, making it twice as thick as plain.

• It is reversible in appearance and has soft hand with full cover.

• It can be unroved from both ends because the free sinker loops can be pulled through at the bottom of the fabric.

• Its lateral stretch is equal to single jersey, but its length-wise elasticity is almost double.

Page 25: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Purl

Page 26: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Principle of Purl knitting:• The tricks of the two needle beds in purl machines are exactly opposite to

each other and in the same plane• Purl structure can be achieved with double-ended latch needles or by rib

loop transfer from one bed to the other, combined with needle bed racking.

• The hook in the needle trick acts as a butt and is controlled by an element termed a slider

• It is the sliders whose butts are controlled by the knitting and needle transfer cam systems in each bed and they, in turn, control the needles.

• Each slider is normally provided with two butts – a knitting butt (K) near to its head and the needle hook that is connected to it, and a transfer butt (T) near to its tail. Each butt has its own cam system and track.

Purl

Page 27: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Purl

Purl needle transfer action.

Page 28: Basic Knits, Fabrics

Purl

Purl Knitting using sliders.