avro lancaster assembly instructions - ripmax · 2010. 7. 21. · avro lancaster bomber the avro...

ASM AVRO LANCASTER - SPECIFICATIONS & FEATURESWing Span: 3050mm (120”)

Wing Area: 116.13dm2 (1800 Sq in.)

Length: 2032mm (80”)

Weight RTF: 14.7kg (32.3lbs)

Wing Loading: 126.6gr/dm2 (41.3 oz. Sq. Foot)

Functions: Elevator, Ailerons, Rudders, Flaps, Retracts

and Throttles, optional Bomb doors.

Radio Required: 6-7 Channels or more with 5 Heavy Duty,

9-11 Standard and 2 Mini Servos

Engines Recommended: 4 x .52~.60cu. in. 4-stroke

• Plywood, Balsa and Carbon Fibre Airframe with Moulded ABS Fuselage Skins

• Factory-Covered Wings / Tail Surfaces• Factory-Painted Fuselage, Wing / Tail Surfaces Nacelles and

Cowls• 4-Piece Wing for Easy Transportation• Accepts a Wide Range of Power Systems: Two-Stroke or Four-Stroke

powerplants• Exceptional Flying Qualities for a Four-Engined Scale Warbird• Generous Hardware Package• Pneumatic Retractable Landing Gear and Oleo Struts Available

Separately

AVRO LANCASTER ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONSCongratulations on your purchase of the

ASM Avro Lancaster!

FULL SIZE AVRO LANCASTER - GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS:Engines: 4× Rolls-Royce Merlin XX V12 engines, 1,280 hp (954 kW) each - Empty Weight: 36 828 lb (16,705 kg) - Loaded Weight: 63,000 lb

(29,000 kg). Wing Span: 102 ft (31.09 m) - Length: 69 ft 5 in (21.18 m) - Height: 19 ft 7 in (5.97 m) - Wing area: 1,300 ft² (120 m²) -Wing loading: 48 lb/ft² (240 kg/m²) - Performance: Maximum Speed 280 mph, (450 km/h) at 15,000 ft (5,600 m) -

Ceiling: 23,500 ft (8,160 m) - Range: 2,700 nmi (3,000 mi, 4,600 km with minimal bomb load).

A semi-scale model of the famous Avro Lancaster Bomber

The Avro Lancaster is probably the most famous of all the British four engine heavy bombers of the war years and was possibly the most effective bomber of the period. It became world famous for its role in one of the most audacious raids of the war, the attack against the Mohne, Eder and Sorpe Dams on the Ruhr by Lancasters from 617 Squadron, this being immortalised in the 1955 film of the raid, entitled “The Dambusters”.

This superb 1/10th scale replica comprises a fuselage with an internal structure of ply formers and carbon fibre longerons, with the outer skin being moulded from tough ABS plastic. Wings and tail surfaces are all built up and sheeted, using laser cut ribs for accuracy, prior to being sheeted with best quality balsa, following which they are covered in film and the final paint finish is applied.

Part No: A-ASM011

2 ASM - AVRO LANCASTER - ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

PROUDLY DISTRIBUTED BY:

FOR YOUR SAFETY - PLEASE READ AND UNDERSTAND THESE WARNINGS!

• DO NOTflyyouraircraftifanotheraircraftisonthe samefrequencyasyou.• NEVER fly your aircraft from the street or at night. Always fly inanopenarea free fromobstructions.• When flying, make sure that any spectators are behindyou.• Always be conscious of spinning propellors. Be careful not to allow loose clothing to be drawn in tothepropellors.• NEVERattempttodisassembleanyof theaircraft’s components.• You should complete a successful range check of your radio control equipment prior to each new day of flying, or prior to the first flight of aneworrepairedmodelaircraft.

• Always turn on your transmitter before turning on the aircraft and always turn off the aircraft before turningoffthetransmitter.• NEVERcutthereceiverantennashorteroryoucould losecontroloftheaircraftduringflight.• Whenflyingtheaircraft,makesureyourtransmitter antennaiscompletelyextended.• NEVER attempt to disassemble or modify any oftheradiocontrolsystemcomponents.

This R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your aircraft before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this aircraft, your radio control system and any other components purchased separately.

THIS R/C MODEL IS DESIGNED FOR ExPERIENCED PILOTS ONLY! IF YOU ARE NOT AN ExPERIENCED PILOT COMFORTABLE WITH FLYING HIGH-PERFORMANCE MULTI-ENGINED MODEL AIRCRAFT, DO NOT CONTINUE.

LIkE THIS R/C MODEL, THESE INSTRUCTIONS ARE WRITTEN WITH THE ExPERIENCED MODELER IN MIND. ALL MAjOR STEPS ARE OUTLINED; HOWEVER, THE INSTRUCTIONS ARE WRITTEN kEEPING IN MIND THAT YOU'RE ExPERIENCED IN BASIC MODEL ASSEMBLY TECHNIqUES AND AIRCRAFT SETUP. IF YOU HAVE qUESTIONS DURING ASSEMBLY, PLEASE CONTACT YOUR LOCAL DISTRIBUTOR USING THE CUSTOMER SERVICE INFORMATION BELOW.

GENERAL WARNINGS

In the USA

Global Services18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley, CA 92708Phone: (714) 963-0329

Fax: (714) 964-6236Email: [email protected]

In the EU

Ripmax Ltd.241 Green Street

Enfield, EN3 7SJ, U.K.Phone: +44(0) 20 8282 7500

Fax: +44(0) 20 8282 7501Email: [email protected]

In Australia

Model Engines (Aust.) PTY. LTD.P.O. Box 828, Noble Park,

VIC., 3174www.modelengines.com.au

3ASM - AVRO LANCASTER - ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT REqUIRED ITEMS

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REqUIRED TO COMPLETE ASSEMBLY

The items we recommend below to finish the final assembly of your aircraft reflect a typical setup. Items required may differ slightly based upon your individual setup. For example, if your radio system does not support dual independent elevator channels, you will require fewer elevator extension leads, however, you will need a Y-harness to connect the two elevator servos together.

We recommend that you have all of the required items on-hand prior to beginning final assembly.

• 1 x 6-Channel or more digital radio control system that features mixing, dual rates, exponential and EPA at minimum• 4 x .40~.46 2 stroke engines or .52~.60 4 stroke enignes with propellers and glow plugs to suit engines• 9 x Standard ball bearing servos for flaps, throttles and retract air control valve• 4 x High-torque (6.5kg.cm) ball bearing servos for elevator halves and ailerons• 2 x Mini servos for rudders• 1 x High-torque (6.5kg.cm) ball bearing metal geared servo for tailwheel steering• 8 x 200mm Heavy duty extension leads for flaps and throttles• 3 x 300mm Heavy duty “Y” lead for ailerons, rudders and tailwheel steering• 2 x 300mm Heavy duty extension leads for inner throttles• 4 x 400mm Heavy duty extension leads for outer throttles and ailerons• 4 x 750mm Heavy duty extension leads for outer throttles and ailerons• 3 x 1000mm Heavy duty extension leads for elevators, rudders and tailwheel steering• 1pr Main wheels/tyres 5 1/2” ballon type• 1 x Tail wheel/tyre 2 3/4”• 1 x 5 Cell (6.0v) 3300mAh or greater capacity Sub-C cell receiver battery• 4 x Remote fueling valves or fuel dots• 1 x Fuel tubing - approx. 304-366cm (10-12ft)• 1 x Protective foam rubber for receiver and battery.• Five and Thirty Minute Epoxy, thin and thick C/A. foam-safe C/A (non-fogging)• Silicon sealant, clear canopy glue (i.e., Deluxe Materials R/C Modellers Glue), and lead weight strips for balancing• Assorted modelling tools (i.e., modelling knife, screwdriver, allen keys, etc.)• Assorted modelling supplies (i.e., sandpaper, sanding block, aircraft stand, paper towels, etc.)

NB:Required servo leads and “Y-Harnesses” listed are based on the use of a computerised multi-channel radio control system which supports the use of dual elevator halves, multiple flaps, and multiple throttles, all independently

Optional:• 2 x Standard ball bearing servos for bomb doors

Pnematic Retractable Main Gear and Oleo Struts - Available Separately:• 1 x ASM Retract Set and Control System for Lancaster (F-ASM-ARS11)• 1 x ASM Landing Gear Strut set for Lancaster (F-ASM-LSS01)

Scale Option:• 1 x ASM Bomb set for Lancaster (F-ASM-LBS01)

Due to the number of servos and the number of long servo extensions used, it’s important that you use a high-quality 5 cell (6.0v) battery pack of sufficient capacity. We recommend the use of Sub-C cells. We do NOT recommend using AA cells. The receiver battery will be mounted in the nose to help balance the aircraft, so the weight of the receiver battery is not an issue.

If two-stroke engines are used, muffler extensions may be required to offset the engine’s stock mufflers enough to clear the sides of the nacelles. In some cases, muffler extensions may not be long enough. In this case, after market Pitt’s style mufflers will need to be used.

Due to the length and number of servo extensions necessary, you must use heavy-duty servo extensions. As an alternative to purchasing seperate servo extensions, you may consider purchasing a bulk spool of heavy-duty servo wire and connectors to make your own custom-length servo extensions.

Each elevator half uses it’s own servo. If your radio control system does not support the use of dual independent elevator servos, you will need to install a “Y-Harness” with reverser to connect the two elevator servos together.


STEP 3Hinge the flaps to the inboard wing panels using the moulded pin hinges supplied and a little rapid epoxy, ensuring that no glue is allowed to get onto the hinge point. It is recommended that the hinge point is protected with a small smear of Petroleum Jelly or similar before epoxy is applied.

STEP 2Use a black permanent marker pen to colour the bare wood edges of the output arm cutouts.

STEP 4Hinge the ailerons to the outboard wing panels.

STEP 5Hinge the flaps to the outboard wing panels.

STEP 1Locate the servo hatches for the aileron and flap servos. Using the mounting screws, grommets and ferrules supplied with your radio, mount the servos ensuring that the output arms are centred to the cutouts.


STEP 6Fit the aileron control horns to the ply hard points in the ailerons ensuring that the horns are centred to the hinge line. Complete the linkage using threaded rod and a pair of clevises. Fit locking nuts and fuel tube safety retainers to the clevises.

STEP 7Complete the flap linkage in the same way, but note that the horn should be positioned rearward of the hingeline to allow for better leverage when the flaps are extended. You will need to form a bend in the pushrod so it clears the servo hatch at full flap deflection.

STEP 10The rudder servo mounts are supplied oversize so that you can trim them back to suit the depth of your servos. Mount your servo, then mark up the mount to the base of the servo as shown.

STEP 8Hinge the elevators to the tailplane halves in a similar way to the ailerons.

STEP 9Hinge the rudders to the two fins in a similar way to the ailerons.


STEP 12Glue the servo mount in position ensuring the servo output is towards to the front of the tail. Repeat for the second servo. Take great care not to glue the Servo into the model by accident.

STEP 11Trim the base of the plywood mount as shown. Connect a suitable extension lead and fit a lead lock or tape the joint and thread the lead through the tail.

STEP 14Attach the two fins to the tailplane halves using the screws provided.

STEP 15Mount the tailplane halves to the fuselage using the 420mm x 13mm alloy tube at the front and 450mm x 13mm tube at the rear. With the tailplane halves fitted to the fuselage, mount the (central) tailwheel steering servo and the two elevator servos. Note that all three servos are mounted with their outputs facing forwards. Depending on the servo used small ply plates to raise the servos may be required.

STEP 13Attach the control horn to each of the rudders in the position shown - aligned to the hinge line and just into the mass balance.


STEP 17With the elevators linked up, you can now prepare the tailwheel linkage from a pushrod with a clevis at one end and a “Z” bend at the other.

STEP 18Note that if you do not have sufficient free channels for the steerable tail and need to control it from a Y lead connected to the rudder channel, you will need to drive the tailwheel from the opposite side to the servo output.

STEP 19Ensure that all extension and servo leads are run neatly up the fuselage to the front of the model. Use cable ties to secure the wires as necessary.

STEP 20The two tailpane halves are retained with two screws through the underside of tailplane into the rear aluminium joining tube.

STEP 16 Mount control horns on the underside of each elevator half in line with the hinge line as shown. Complete the linkages using threaded pushrods and metal clevises. Note the use of locknuts and fuel tube retainers on the clevises.


STEP 22Loosely fit the engine mounts to the nacelles, then temporarily fit a prop and spinner to each engine to ensure each is correctly positioned in its mount with sufficient clearance from the cowl to the spinner. Mark the positions of the mounting holes.

STEP 23Pilot drill the mounts and fit the engines using suitable self-tapping screws.

STEP 24Connect a pushrod and clevis to the throttle arm. Passing the pushrod through the pre-cut holes in the nacelle formers. Ensure you fit a fuel tube retainer to the clevis to secure.

STEP 25Screw a throttle servo into the nacelle as shown.

STEP 21Once the steerable tailwheel has been set-up and adjusted, the lower fairing can be trimmed to clear the tailwheel axle and retained with two screws as shown.


STEP 26Prepare a pushrod connector by fitting it through the throttle servo horn, slip over a washer and fit a nut. Do not overtighten, but retain with a drop of cyano.

STEP 27Trim the throttle pushrod to length with side cutters or pliers. Slide the connector over the pushrod and refit the throttle servo arm. Centre the servo position the throttle arm on the engine at mid position when installing the throttle servo arm.Tighten the servo connector retaining screw to complete the linkage.

STEP 30Fit a bent wire needle valve extender to each engine so that the engines’ mixtures can be adjusted without removing the cowls. Cut a small hole to allow screwdriver access to the low speed needle.

STEP 29Slide each tank into its bay in the nacelles and connect up the fuel tubing. Note that the tanks are mounted on their sides.

STEP 28Prepare the fuel tanks by cutting the clunk tubing to the correct length, and assembling the tank stopper. Carefully identify the fuel, feed and vent lines.


STEP 31Now fit your air retracts, drilling pilot holes and then using the self-tapping screws provided into the mounting beams.

STEP 32Prepare the nacelles for the gear doors by fitting two pairs of hinges to each nacelle (one pair for each door). Note that the hinges must be fitted as close to the hinge line as possible.

STEP 33Now drill the gear doors for the hinges and bond them in place ensuring that both doors meet and the doors pivot smoothly. Use scraps of block balsa to support the hinges

STEP 34Prepare the gear door actuating plates by gluing a brass hinge to each of the narrow ends as shown.

STEP 35To complete the gear door actuating plates, epoxy the short length of nylon tube with the operating piano wire ‘legs’ as shown to the front of the plate.


STEP 36Attach the brass hinge to the former immediately in front of the throttle servo as shown, using small self-tapping screws.

STEP 37Using epoxy attach a small control horn and adaptor to each door in the position shown. Adjust the pushrod lengths so that as the main wheels retract, they push on the actuating plates that pull the doors closed behind. Note that the lower surface of the wing will require the sheeting to be cut away to give clearance for the main wheel and rear actuating plates.

STEP 40From the underside, pilot drill through the wing and into both the aluminium joining tubes.

STEP 39To complete the final assembly, locate the aluminium wing joining tubes. Begin by inserting the outboard tubes into their panels leaving 270mm protruding. The blister fairings can now be glued in place, their position is shown on page 19.

270mm

STEP 38 Complete the engine installation by trimming the cowls for the silencers and vent pipes. Retain the cowls with small self tapping screws. Fit the nacelles to the wing panels using locating dowels at the front and bolts at the rear.


STEP 41Retain the joiners in the outboard wing panel using long self tapping screws as shown.

STEP 42Slide both joining tubes into their corresponding tubes in the inboard wing panel. Carefully thread the extension leads through the wing.

STEP 43With the outboard panel held in position, pilot drill the inboard wing panels to accept self tapping screws to retain the joining tubes in position. Note the nacelle has yet to be screwed in position here.

STEP 44Now slide the inboard panel wing joining tubes into position into one panel. Ensure that 425mm of the front tube is left protruding as shown. From the underside, pilot drill through the wing and into the aluminium joining tube and retain the tube with a screw. Repeat for the rear tube, ensuring that 395mm of this tube is left protuding.

425mm

STEP 45Using the same technique as the gear doors, hinge the bomb doors using four pinned hinges on each door.


STEP 49Slide the second fuselage half onto the joiners and retain with Allen headed bolts and washers using the bomb bay for access.

STEP 50Complete the retract installation by fitting an operating servo for the retract air valve and arrange air lines as required.

STEP 48Locate the aluminium fuselage joining tubes and slide them in position into one fuselage half.

STEP 46Trim the glazing for a perfect fit, roughen the edges for a mechanical key, then bond in place inside the fuselage using your choice of epoxy or canopy glue.

STEP 47Complete the fitting of the remaining glazing panels using epoxy or canopy glue.


STEP 52Complete your air installation by mounting your air bottle in the front of the bomb bay as shown.

STEP 53The radio installation is completed by installing the receiver in the fuselage between the two wing joining tubes. Use a large capacity receiver battery pack and mount it as far forward in the fuselage as possible.

STEP 54As with many models of this type, a substantial amount of noseweight is required to balance the model. The noseweight used must be securely fastened to the ply former in the front of the fuselage.

See page 18 for correct Centre of Gravity Position.

STEP 51The bomb doors are servo operated by a pair of servos mounted into the servo trays provided and as shown with pushrods to the plywood door actuating arms – NOTE: one of the mounts should face forward and one rearward to avoid the need for a servo reverser. Dependant on the length of servo arm used it may be necessary to trim a recess in the fuselage side flange for the pushrod. If opening bomb doors are not required then the doors can be held shut with screws or hatch latches – latches being preferable as the doors have to be open during assembly/disassembly.


SETUP AND FLYING NOTES

If you’ve followed these instructions carefully you should now have a beautiful model of the ASM Avro Lancaster that is nearly ready to fly. Notice the word ‘nearly’! It’s now time to sit down and understand the final setup of the model ready for that first flight. This stage is particularly important if this is your first four engine aircraft. The ASM Avro Lancaster is not hard to fly, it just requires some new skills and understanding compared to a single or even twin engine model. If you are not an experienced modeller, we recommend that you trust that first flight to somebody who is. This is a model that needs the rudders to be used a lot during most of the flight.

Engine Throttle SetupEverybody has their own preference for throttle setup, but with a four engine model we recommend the use of two separate throttle controls. Many modern transmitters have an additional variable channel available, and ideally, this should be easily reachable using your throttle hand. The best option being a side mounted TX rotary arm-type as used on the Futaba 10CG for instance. You can use a rotary knob but this is just a little more inconvenient to use as it is often located away from the throttle hand. The best setup is to have the inner engines coupled together via a Y-Lead and operating off the normal throttle stick control. The outer engines are again coupled together via a Y-lead and operated by the aforementioned variable control. The reasons for this will be explained in the flying notes. If you can assign a trim to the second throttle then great, but if not, make sure that there is enough movement to close the throttles completely and shut the engines down. In this case you will have to be careful when coming back to idle at any time during the flight.

Work With Each Engine Individually By Running It.Set up each engine in a pair for correct idle, full throttle and throttle response individually. This has to be achieved via carefully ensuring that each throttle linkage is the same length, the servo arm operates over the same arc of movement and the same servo/throttle arm hole is used on each pair of engines. Set the arms at 90 degrees to the pushrod for half throttle open on the carburettor and mid throttle on the stick/rotary control (see diagram). Adjust the TX end points after this. It is also important to ensure that you use the same servo (2 x Futaba S-3001 for instance) on each pair of engines. Different servos can give different arcs of travel and different responses. Once you are happy that each engine of the pair is running well independently then run them together as a pair. Remember, each pair may be coupled together via a Y-lead and any TX adjustments affect both at the same time. Individual engines can only be adjusted mechanically. Golden Rule 1 - Never be tempted to try and match RPMs !! The most important requirement is reliability. Always run the max RPM needle setting a little rich, even after the engines are well run in.

Once you are happy with each pair then run all four together. Start them at an outer first and work across to the other outer. Take great care of the rotating propeller on adjacent engines when starting or adjusting. Trying to start four engines often results in lapses of concentration, take your time!! The noise of four engines running together for the first time is awesome! You will learn to hear if an engine is not running correctly but a tachometer will help in the early stages. Never lean an engine to peak it more in an attempt to match RPMs better, remember ‘Golden Rule 1’. The likelihood is that one or more may need to be made richer when you do the nose up mixture test.

When all is well, shut down all the engines and take a breather!

Control SetupMixing 1) Program the rudder to aileron mix (50%) as a permanent mix (left aileron gives left rudder). This helps

to stop the tail ‘hanging’ when entering turns and is quite important for this model. You can fine adjust this to cater for the differing torque of your engines compared to our test model. It is actually slightly different in left and right hand turns but this is a good starting point....Continued over



2) Program 5% down elevator to flap mix as a permanent mix. This will help prevent the nose going up when selecting flap but may need adjusting after test flying.

3) We strongly recommend the use of a ‘failsafe’ function on this model. In some countries for example (the U.K.) this may be a legal requirement. Always set the failsafe on the day of flying. If you program a turn as the failsafe setting, make sure it is away from spectators for the take-off/landing direction of the day. Throttles should always be fully closed.

4) Many multi engine flyers fit a gyro to the rudder to help in an engine out situation. It is not necessary but might help. It needs to be positioned on the yaw rotation axis i.e. close to the wing spar, and may need to be set with a very high gain.

FlyingHave a word with your clubmates and try to get a flying slot on your own. This will not be difficult as they will all want to watch anyway! Go through the usual pre-flight checks and start your engines in the sequence advised earlier. Did you fully re-fuel all four engines? Remember to check your failsafe is working.

The Lancaster is fairly straightforward to fly once airborne, but the take-off and landing require some new techniques to be learnt. This mainly revolves around throttle handling sequence and can be best summarised as;

‘Golden Rule 2’ –1) Inners up first followed by outers 2) Outers down first followed by inners

This applies at all times and is done for a reason. Losing an engine at any time will result in a swing of some kind. The magnitude of the swing will depend on whether it is an inner or outer that is lost. The swing will be at its worst if it is an outer. If the inners are always at a high power setting when adjusting the outers, that swing risk can be minimised. Always have an engine ‘spotter’ alongside you who can see which prop is stopped. You will know which side from the resultant swing. Your first reaction should be opposite rudder to correct the yaw, not aileron. Your spotter will tell you which engine is out and you can then reduce the power on its opposing paired engine. Unless you are very low, go back to idle on this engine but never more than 25%. Make sure that the other pair are put to full throttle to stabilise things and give you time to think. She will maintain height on two good engines and minimal control inputs. If you have time, re-trim the rudder for straight flight.

Golden Rule 3 – Never turn into a dead engine, always turn away from it.

If the other paired engine is back at idle this is not so critical. With the O.S. FS56 Alpha engines in our prototype we follow the following procedure for take off. Select 100% power on the inners and listen for a ‘sick’ engine. If all’s well, select 75% power on the outers and again listen for a ‘sick’ engine. Do not go for a take-off unless you are 100% happy with the engines. If you have spent time re-setting engines remember the fuel you have used.

For first flights we recommend flying only at a suitable large flying site with clear approaches. With space available it is easier to perform the initial take off by opening the throttles gradually, and allowing the model to gather speed slowly – this allows the tailwheel to remain on the ground until the model is travelling fast enough for the rudders to become effective, giving good directional control throughout the take off run. Try to avoid cross-wind take-offs as the Lancaster has a strong tendency to weathercock into the wind, a characteristic it shares with the full sized aircraft. Once more experienced and if required for smaller flying sites the following take-off procedure can be adopted.

When you are ready, release the model. She will accelerate rapidly and straight with little need for rudder



correction. In a crosswind, you will need quite a lot of rudder to stay straight until speed has built up You will need to apply a little up elevator input to rotate the nose upwards. Let her climb out a little and then back the outers off to about 50%. Engines are more likely to go out at full power and you are reducing the risk. Once at cruise height, bring the inners back to around 60%. Re-trim as necessary.

If you have retracts fitted, do not select ‘up’ until you are established in the cruise. There is no noticeable change in pitch when the retracts go up and down.

The ailerons are quite crisp and responsive and the elevator is a little softer. The rudder is quite positive in it’s response but the swing can be dramatic. Note: You will find it necessary for additional rudder input in the turns to balance the tail attitude. This is a trait that most model Lancasters have. This requirement increases in cross wind situations.

Remember Golden Rule 2 and get used to the flying handling before thinking about a landing. Be conscious of the fuel used and get somebody to remind you. Running out of fuel is a common cause of engines going out on ‘multis’, usually from extended ground adjustments. You are also using more fuel in the inners due to the higher throttle settings.

The landing requires careful planning. If you have the room, leave the flaps alone for the first one. She is not a particularly ‘floaty’ model anyway and flapless landings can still be achieved in a fairly limited space. She does however slow down pretty quick so be prepared to compensate with increased power. It is easy to stall on the approach with the flaps down and the model facing you. Be wary of this but not over cautious.

If you have retracts fitted, select ‘down’ before you start the landing sequence.Reduce the outers to about 40% on the ‘down wind leg and adjust the descent with the inners. Reduce the outers to about 25% on the ‘base leg’ and again adjust the desent with the inners. Once on ‘finals’ you can bring the outers back to idle and fly in on the inners alone. You may need about 70% inner power to do this. This puts you back into a normal throttle stick mode and the multi engine drama is gone (unless you have to go around again). All speed/descent adjustments can be made with the inners and elevator. The round out is sensitive with only a little elevator input required. Once on the ground and speed is decaying you can actually kill the outers. If something goes wrong on the landing approach and you have to go around again, remember Golden Rule 2, inners up first!! Beware of an engine going out as you throttle up and be prepared to counter the swing with rudder. Now remember Golden Rule 3.

The flaps are effective and tend to make her slow down a lot when deployed. The down trim mix keeps the pitch neutral or you can adjust it if it does not. Beware of a rapid speed decay response to closing the throttles when the flaps are down. Use of flaps requires a little more throttle on the approach to counter the drag.

Once you have mastered the throttle technique (be gentle with them) you’ll wonder what all the fuss was about!

Maintenance

Always check the model out after a flight. Pay particular attention to engines and nacelles working loose from vibration. The captive nuts in the nacelles that are used to hold them on tend to bed into the wood a little after some use and will need checking. Also check the security of all linkages, hinges and the undercarriage.

Always check the security of the wing/tail tube fixing screws before every flight.


AVRO LANCASTER CENTRE OF GRAVITY

AVRO LANCASTER PHOTOGRAPHS

Balance Point (C of G): 165mm back from the leading edge of wing at the root

165mm


BP4

74C

ity

of L

inco

ln

BP4

74C

ity

of L

inco

ln

AVRO LANCASTER CONTROL MOVEMENTS

Aileron: 20mm each way Elevator: 35mm each wayRudder: 30mm each way Flap: Take off – 20mm deflection Landing: - 65mm deflection

Note position of blister fairings

OUR GUARANTEEAdvanced Scale Models guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This does not cover any com-ponent parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Advanced Scale Models' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Advanced Scale Models has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage result-ing from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

PROUDLY DISTRIBUTED BY:

In the USA

Global Services18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley, CA 92708Phone: (714) 963-0329

Fax: (714) 964-6236Email: [email protected]

In the EU

Ripmax Ltd.241 Green Street

Enfield, EN3 7SJ, U.K.Phone: +44(0) 20 8282 7500

Fax: +44(0) 20 8282 7501Email: [email protected]

In Australia

Model Engines (Aust.) PTY. LTD.P.O. Box 828, Noble Park,

VIC., 3174www.modelengines.com.au

avro lancaster assembly instructions - ripmax · 2010. 7. 21. · avro lancaster bomber the avro...

Documents