aveda aromaology i: essence of aveda workbook...hair care, skin care, and body care products...
TRANSCRIPT
Aveda Aromaology I:Essence of AvedaWorkbook
Aveda MissionOUR MISSION AT AVEDA IS TO CARE FOR THE WORLD WE LIVE IN, FROM THE PRODUCTS WE MAKE TO THE WAYS IN WHICH WE GIVE BACK TO SOCIETY. AT AVEDA, WE STRIVE TO SET AN EXAMPLE FOR ENVIRONMENTAL LEADERSHIP AND RESPONSIBILITY, NOT JUST IN THE WORLD OF BEAUTY, BUT AROUND THE WORLD.
Aveda VisionConnecting beauty, environment and well-being.
Aveda Beliefs
1. We believe in treating ourselves, each other and the planet with care and respect.
2. We believe social responsibility is our responsibility.
3. We believe ecological and profit goals are mutually achievable.
4. We believe our authenticity and experience are our points of difference.
5. We believe in inspiring and educating people to integrate wellness and beauty in their lives.
6. We believe in the power of oneness, from our global image to a focused network.
7. We believe learning never ends.
8. We believe in encouraging innovation and empowered decision-making.
9. We believe our actions, products and services should always embody excellence.
10. We believe personal and organizational balance is the key to sustainable success.
11. We believe true leadership is delivered with passion and by example.
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Introduction: Class objectives Aromatherapy vs Aromaology
Chapter 1: What is an essential oil? Definition
What it is
From where it comes
How we obtain it
Chapter 2: How do essential oils work? Sense of smell
Psychological reactions
Physiological reactions
Topical application
Chapter 3: Aveda functional aroma blends
What is a functional aroma?
Creating Functional aroma blends
The Aveda Team
Aveda functional aroma blends
Anti - acne
Elemental nature
Anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant
Chakra
Chapter 4: Aveda Singular Notes
General Information
Professional Blending
Individual Essences
table of contentsti
2
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
i Welcome
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
3
i
1
2
3
4
Workbook: Welcome
Class Objectives:
By the end of this course, participants will be able to:
•DefineAvedafunctionalaroma
•ExplainthefunctionalaromabenefitsofAvedaproducts
•Integratearomaologyinformationintoconversationswithgueststodrivesales
•IncreaseretailbyusingthearomatherapeuticknowledgeofAvedaPure-fume,™
hair care,skincare,andbodycareproducts
Introduction
When you see the images on the screen, what comes to mind?
Aveda Aromaology I is about integrating the art of purefumery with the functionalityof essential oils
i
4
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Aromaology I:
introduction
Based on your current understanding, write down answers to the following questions:
What is aromatherapy?
What is aromaology?
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
5
introduction
• Aromaology and Aromatherapy are essentially the same thing
• ThetermAromatherapywascoinedbyaFrenchchemistnamedReneMaurice
Gattefosse in the 1930’s to refer to the therapeutic use of essentials oils from
plants and flowers
• HepublishedabookcalledAromathérapie: Les Huiles essentielles hormones
végétales which discussed the use of essential oils
• Oftentimes,theterm“Aromatherapy”isusednottorefertoessentialoilsbuttoany
type of aroma, whether plant derived or synthetic
• AromaologyisatrademarkedwordthatwascreatedtoemphasizethatAvedauses
onlyplantbasedaromasandessentialoils
Aromaology is
i
1
2
3
4
6
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
1What is an essential oil?
7
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter one
What is an essential oil?i
What is an essential oil?
Using the 19 following words and letters, create a sentence that defines an essential oil. Focuson3aspects:Whatitis,fromwhereitcomes,andhowweobtainit.
distillation, compound, part, or, derived, volatile, a, a, a, through, of, of, aromatic, expression, any, organic, process, plant, from
What it is : ____ ________ _________ __________ _________(5 words)
From where it comes: _________ _________ _____ ________ ____ _____ _______(7 words)
How we obtain it: _______ ____ _________ ___ ___________ ___ _________ (7 words)
8
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
What is an essential oil?chapter one
what it is: a volatile aromatic organic compound.
•Volatile–Themoleculesofanessentialoilfloatintheair.
•Aromatic– All essential oils have an aroma.
•Organic–Essentialoilcomponentsarecarbonbased.The chemical components of essential oils are mostly monoterpenes withabackboneof10carbonatomsorsesquiterpeneswitha backboneof15carbonatoms.
•Compound–Essentialoilsareacombinationofmorethanonechemicalsand oftenhavehundredsofconstituents.Thechemicalsareplantbasedasopposedto petroleumbased,andthecomplexityofessentialoilsiswhatgivesthemtheirpower.
A gas chromatograph measures the components ofanessentialoil.Isthisimage,thehighpeaksrepresent the dominant components of an essentialandcaneasilyberecreatedinalab.Synthetic copies of essential oils often use 3 or 4ofthesedominantchemicals,buttheactualoilcontainsallofthesesmallpeaks.Thiscomplexityis why essential oils are effective. Even though a chemist can recreate a version of an essential, they cannot match the superiority of the aroma or therapeutic properties of the actual oil.
from where it comes: derived from any part of a plant
Individual essentials oils can come from any part of a plant.However,eachoilalwayscomesfromthatpartoftheplant.Roseoilcomesfromtheflowerbutyoucannotgetoilfromtheleaves.
Flower
9
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter one
What is an essential oil?i
Fruit:
Flower:
Leaves:
Thebitterorangetree(Citrusaurantium)yields3essentialoils:
10
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
What is an essential oil?chapter one
how we obtain it: through a process of expression or distillation.
Expression:Thepressingoftheplantmaterialtoextracttheessentialoil.Thisprocessusesnoheatbutonlyworkswithcitrusoilswhentheessentialoilislocatedineasilyrupturedsacs.
Distillation:Steamispassedthroughtheplantmaterial,liftingtheessentialoil.Thesteamcarryingthe essentialoiliscooledandre-condensesbackintoitsliquidform-calledahydrosol.Sinceoil and water do not mix, the essential oil is easily separated from the hydrosol.
Notes:
Notes:
11
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter one
What is an essential oil?i
HowmanyofAveda’sSingularNotesarebydefinitionessentialoils?
12
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
What is an essential oil?chapter one
VanillaandRoseabsolutesarenotbydefinitionessentialoils.Thoughtheyarevolatilearomatic organic compounds derived from any part of a plant, they are derived from a process called solvent extraction.
Rankinorderwhichoftheseextractionprocessesyieldessentialoilthatsmellmostliketheirrespectiveplants:
Thecostofessentialoils:Thecostofessentialoilvaries.Someoilsarequiteexpensiveandsomearerelativelycheap.Themajorfactorinpriceistheyieldoftheessentialoil.
Howmanyrosesdoesittaketoobtainonedropofroseoil?
13
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter one
What is an essential oil?i
Utilizingtheessentialoilinformation,createascriptthatyoucanusewhilediscussingAvedaproductswithyourguests.
14
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
2 How do essential oilswork?
i
15
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter two
How do essential oils work?
Wedescribearomasby:
Howtheymakeus
Ofwhatthey us
Essentialoilsworkintwoways:
1. Electrically
2. Physically
Essential oils work electrically through the sense of smell
We will first discuss how the oils workelectricallythroughthesenseofsmell.
Closeyoureyesandthinkofyourfavoritearomaintheworld.Asyou“smell”thearoma,describeit.Writedownyourdescriptions.
“Itisalmostimpossibletoexplainhowsomethingsmellstosomeonewhohasn’tsmelledit.Therearenamesforallthepastelsinahue,butnoneforthetonesandtintsofasmell”
–DianeAckermanA Natural History of the Senses.
16
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter two
How do essential oils work?
1. An aroma molecule is floating in the air.
2.Thenosedirectsthemoleculestotheolfactoryepithelium.
3.Whilemostofusthinkwesmellwithournose,weactuallysmellwithourolfactory epithelium,whichhas10-40millionolfactoryreceptors.Thesereceptorsare neuronswithdozensofciliatetips,whicharestimulatedwhenthearoma molecules pass through the nasal passage. It is thought that the neurons convert the chemical signals into electrical signals.
4.Thiselectricalsignalissenttotheolfactorybulb,whichisapartofthebrain.The olfactorybulbsendsthesignaldirectlytotheolfactorycortex.
5.Thissignalbypassesthethalamuswhichmakessmelluniqueamong5senses as the other 4 pass through the thalamus which controls motor functions.
6.Theolfactorycortexcansendthesignalinto2directions:thelimbicsystem or the hypothalamus
7.Thelimbicsystemistheemotionalandmemorycenterofthebrain.Thisexplains whywedescribearomasbyhowtheymakeusfeelorofwhattheyremindus. Thelimbicsystemresponseisoftenpsychological.
8.Thehypothalamuscontrolshomeostasisandaffectsautonomicfunctionssuch asbloodpressure,digestion,andstressresponse.Thehypothalamusresponse is thus physiological.
9.Thecollectiveareasthatgovernolfactionaretermedtherhinencephalon.
Area of limbic systemOlfactory tractOlfactory bulb
Olfactory epitheliumNasal vestibule
Aroma
The olfactory sense:
Thalamus Hypothalamus
Pituitary
i
17
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter two
How do essential oils work?
Whatdoesthistechnicaljargonmeantoyou?
Thesenseofsmellworksin2ways:
1. Psychologically
2. Physiologically
Psychologically:Thepsychologicalconnectionoccursthroughthelimbicsystemwhichistheemotionalandmemorycenterofthebrain.Wedescribearomasthewaywedobecauseofthisconnection.Thisaromaconnectiontomemoryandemotioncanbeverypowerfulandhappensinaninstant.Whenyousmellafamiliararoma,youcaninstantlybementallytransportedbacktothatmomentintimewhenyouencounteredthearoma.
Howyoufeelaboutthatexperienceinfluenceshowyourespondtothataroma.Ifyouhaveapleasantorpositiveassociationwiththatmemory,itcanbringuppositiveemotions when you smell the aroma again. If you had a negative response, a negativereaction can arise.
Thevalueofthesensoryjourneyandaromapreference: •Thewayindividualsreactcaninfluencetheeffectoftheessentialoil •Aromascancreatenewmemories
18
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter two
How do essential oils work?
AstudyinJapanshowedthatsimplysmellinglavenderandrosemaryincreasesfreeradicalscavengingactivityanddecreasescortisollevelinsaliva
(ToshikoAtsumiandKeiichiTonosakia,DepartmentofOralPhysiology,MeikaiUniversity,SchoolofDentistry,1-1,Keyaki-dai,Sakado-shi,Saitama350-0283,Japan)Cortisolisthestresshormonesosimplysmellinganaromacaninfluencerecoveryfromstress.
Physiologically: • Thephysiologicalresponseoccurbecausetherhinencephalonhasconnections to the hypothalamus • Thetinyhypothalamusservesastheuppermanagementofyourhealth maintenanceregulatingitshomeostasis,orstablestateofequilibrium. • Hypothalamusfunctions: - Autonomic control -Temperatureregulation -Thirstandcontrolofbodywater - Appetite control - Endocrine control - Emotional reactions -Sleepandwakefulness - Stress response
Bysmellingcarefullyselectedblendedoils,Aromatherapistsbelievethatthehypothalamus and all it controls will produce positive effects, restoring homeostasis inthebody.
i
19
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter two
How do essential oils work?
Essential oils also work physically through topical application and through the lungs
• Essentialoilsarecompoundscontaininghundredsofindividual chemicals called constituents.• Theseconstituentsarelipophilicmeaningtheybindwithoils(fats)allowingthemto bindorpenetratetissuesreachingthecellularlevel.• Theseconstituentscanelicitbiochemicaleffectsonthecellsthatmakeupepithelial tissue, connective tissue, nerve tissue and muscle tissue.• Aromatherapistsbelievethatbyapplyingessentialoilstotheskinthroughtopical applicationallowtheircombinedchemicalconstituentstopositivelyaffect thebody’scells.• Further,aromatherapistsbelievethatthefatsolubilityofessentialoilsallows themtosoakthroughoilrichskin(epithelialtissue)tothebloodstreamandthus have systematic responses. • Asmentionedbefore,thearomaofessentialoilscanhaveaneffectonthe hypothalamus via the olfactory cortex. In addition, the inhaled essential oils enter thebody’stissuesviathealveoli,thelunggastransferunitsandsubsequently intothebloodstream.
Basedontheinformationyouhavelearned,writeanotherscriptincorporatinghowessentialoilsworkintoaconversationwithaguest.
20
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
3 AvedaFunctional AromaBlends
i
21
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Functional Aroma Blendschapter three
AvedaFunctionalAromaBlends:
TheheritageofAvedaisaroma.Sinceourfoundingin1978,theuseofplantbasedaromahasbeenattheforefrontofthecompany.SmellisoftenthefirstthingconsumersthinkofwhentheythinkofAveda.
Avedaproductsusethepowerofessentialoilsthroughfunctionalaromablends.
What is a functional aroma?
22
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter threeAveda Functional Aroma Blends
CreatingAvedafunctionalaromablendsandproducts:
1. Avedauses“functionfirst”tocreateproducts. • Functionfirstmeanstotargetanactionthatproducesaresponseinthebody (whetherthebody,skin,hair,nails,etc).2. Wesearchforthebestplantstodothejobwhetherodiferousornon-odiferous • Forthearoma,welookin-depthatthechemicalconstituentsofessentialoilsand searchforwhatisknownabouttheeffectsthosechemicalshaveonthebody. •Searchesincludepublishedpeerrevieweddata,ourownstudiesandtraditional informationthathasbeenhandeddownfromgenerationtogeneration.3. Theteam,whichincludesaromatherapists,pharmacologists,andpurefumers,createsa functional short list of essential oils. 4. Theperfumersthenstarttoworkontheart,deliberatingarrangingthelistmaterialsin pursuit of the end users’ heart and mind. 5. Oncethearomaisconstructed,itisscientificallytested.Testsinclude: • Physical tests such as anti oxidant tests • Emotional tests such as panel testing when people are questioned on how a smell makesthemfeel.
Purefumery: Purefume™isatrademarkedwordofAvedawhichemphasizestheuseofessentialoils and not synthetic aroma ingredients
• PerfumingisawordthatisderivedfromtheLatinword“parfumare”meaning “throughsmoke.”
• Perfumerelatestosmell-whatthenosedetectsasitencountersthearoma.
• Perfumingisanartthatdeliberatelyarrangesaromainawaythatinfluencesand moves people, affecting the senses, emotions and intellect.
• Abeautifulperfumeissimplyonethathasinstantgratificationandappeal. • Creatingatrulygreatpurefumeencompassesarttodelvedeeperintothepsyche ofpeoplestimulatingneuronssoonethinksdeeperandfeelsdeeper.
• Therealtargetforapurefumerisnotthenosebuttheheartandmind.
Functionality:
• Functionalitytargetsaspecificactionontheskin,nails,hair,orbody
• Thetraditionalusesofessentialoilsplusmodernresearchdeterminewhichoils are the most effective for a given function
i
23
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Functional Aroma Blendschapter three
AsDirectorofBotanicalResearchforAveda,Cindyandherteamexplorethe
chemistryandbiologyofbotanicalingredientsinanefforttocreatehigh
performanceplant-basedproducts.Withmorethan25yearsofexperience,
Cindyhasusedherexpertiseinpharmacognosyandplant-basedsciencetohelp
developinnovativebotanicalcosmeticsanddietarysupplements.Cindyhashelped
establishleadingresearchprogramsthatexplorethescienceofmedicinalherbs
andthequalityofbotanicalextracts.
BeforejoiningAveda,CindyreceivedaB.A.inChemistryfromGustavusAdolphusCollegeandaPh.D.
inPharmacognosyfromtheUniversityofMinnesota.Shetaughtcoursesinthemedicinalandbiological
chemistryofnaturalsubstancesforgraduateandprofessionalstudentsattheUniversityofIllinoisat
ChicagoCollegeofPharmacy.WhileatUIC,sheestablishedabioassayscreeningprogramforanti-
malarialnaturalproductsandreceivedfundingfromNIH(NIAID)andWHOinsupportofthiswork
whichledtotheidentificationofmanyanti-malarialcompounds.ShedirectedResearchandProduct
DevelopmentforTom’sofMaine,Inc.forfiveyearsandhasconsultedfornon-profitandfor-profit
organizationsinthenaturalproductsindustry.Cindyhasdesignedanddeliveredintroductory,science-
basedcurriculaonmedicinalherbsforpharmacistsandotherhealthcareprofessionalsaswellas
seminars for consumer and trade audiences. She currently serves on the Advisory Board for the American
BotanicalCouncilandtheBoardoftheAmericanHerbalProductsAssociation.Shefrequentlyreviews
manuscriptsforseveralscientificjournalsinnaturalproductsandhasauthoredmorethan40peer-
reviewedpublications.
Cindylovestosing,isanavidbirdwatcher,andenjoysbikingtowork(exceptinwinter!).
Cindy Angerhofer
Ph.D. - Executive Director of Botanical Research for Aveda
Ko-ichiShiozawajoinedAvedain1990asAveda’sChiefPerfumerandDirectorofthe
BotanicalAromaLab.Assuch,heisfacedwiththerewardingchallengeofcreating
transformingflower-andplant-derivedaromas,derivedfromsustainablysourced
essentialoils,absolutesandorganicingredientswhereverpossible,forAveda’shair
care,skincare,bodycare,Pure-Fume™andmakeupproducts.Inhissearchforthe
finestessentialoilsandplantsthataresustainablysourced,Mr.Shiozawacontinues
tobuildpartnershipswithproducers,suppliersandfarmersworldwide.Mr.Shiozawa
travelsaroundtheworldtokeepanactiveandcloserelationshipwitheachofthesepartners.Especially
sincethebeginningof2001,hehasbeenconcentratinghiseffortsandcreativeskillondevelopmentofa
newgenreofnaturalaromas:allorganicaromas.
For15yearspriortoAveda,Mr.Shiozawanurturedhiscraftworkingforthreemajorinternationalfragrance
housesintheU.S.includingTakasago,GivaudanandDragoco.
InApril2009,Mr.ShiozawawasnamedasMasterNaturalPerfumer.
Mr.ShiozawaisversedinItalianandfluentinJapanese,EnglishandFrench—whichlandedhima
scholarshiptotheSorbonneUniversityinParis.Mr.Shiozawawastrainedextensivelyforfiveyearsfrom
thelate1960’stobecomeaperfumerbyrenownedFrenchperfumersatamajorperfumecompanyin
Grasse,—thebirthplaceofthemodernperfumeryinFrance.
Ko-ichi Shiozawa
Master Natural Perfumer and Director of Aveda’s Botanical Aroma Lab
The Aveda R and D aroma team includes:
24
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter threeAveda Functional Aroma Blends
Perfumer, AvedaAself-taughtperfumerwithaferventpassionforcraftingunusuallybeautiful
and complex aromas, Guy Vincent is one of the few remaining in-house
perfumersinthebeautyindustry.BorninAustralia,Guyhastraveledthe
worldextensively,workingandvisitingrawmaterialmanufacturingand
sourcing locations on six continents—all experiences which have helped to
broadenhisnaturalperfumeryandessentialoilknowledge.Guy’scomplex
skillsetincludes:perfuming,cosmeticchemistry,complementarymedicine
practiceandtechnicalknowledgeofthepersonalcareindustry.
GuyjoinedAvedain2010asanaturalperfumerunderthementorshipofAvedaMasterPerfumer
Ko-IchiShiozawa.SincecomingtoAvedaGuyhasworkedtirelessly,amalgamatingtheworld’s
finestessentialoilsderivedfromorganic,sustainablysourcedplantsandflowerstocompliment
high-performing,naturally-derivedpersonalcareproducts.Workingwithandtravelingto
visit essential oil producers, suppliers and farmers around the world nicely compliment Guy’s
enthusiasmforcreativityandartisticinspirationwhencreatingnewproductaromas.Currently,
Guyiscraftingorganicaircareandtherapeuticallybeneficialaromasforinclusioninupcoming
products.
PriortoAveda,Guyspent16yearscraftingaromasforleadingbrands,including:Aromatherapy
Associates,ThisWorks,InEssence,FourSeasonsHotelsand
MandarinOrientalHotels.
GuyhonedhisskillforaromablendingwhileapprenticingwithamastercraftbrewerinAustralia.
InhisfreetimeGuyenjoyscrosscountryskiing,modernliterature
and amateur gastronomy.
Guy Vincent
The Aveda R and D aroma team includes:
i
25
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Functional Aroma Blendschapter three
Drs.VinodandKusumUpadhyayoperateamedicalclinicinHaridwarinNorthernIndiaoutsideRishikeshwhere they help patients heal through traditional, modern and Ayurvedic methods. Both well respected AyurvedicPhysicianswithyearsofexperienceinAyurvedicmedicine,pharmacology,botanicalresearchand aroma therapy, the Upadhyays are highly sought after as doctors, teachers and advisors for many prestigiousmedicalandeducationalfacilitiesglobally.TheUpadhyayscarryavastheritageofVedaandAyurvedaofthousandsyearsinheritedthroughGuruandfamilytraditions.TheirsonisatrainedDermatologist,blessedtosustainthelineage.
HeisaspecialistinAyurvedicherbologyandhealsocreatesmanyofthemedicinesheusesinhisclinic.Herecognizesandusesthousandsofspeciesofplants.Kusumisanayurvedicspecialistinwomen’shealth.
TheyhavebeensharingthisAyurvedicexpertisewithAvedasincethecompanywasfoundedin1978.AspartoftheAvedaResearchandDevelopmentBotanicalResearchLabtheyhelptoidentifyandtestfunctionalAyurvedicbotanicalactivesforourproducts.Alongwithourinhousearomateam,theyhaveclassifiedalltheessentialoilsAvedausesbasedontheelementalnaturephilosophy.
Aswellasparticipatinginnumerousboardsandadvisorygroups,theyarehonoraryadvisorstotheHimalayanInstituteHospitalTrustAyurvedicTherapyProgramandhavereceivedmanyhonorsandawards,includingtheAvedaHealingTouchAward.
Aveda consultants
Vinod Upadhyay Kusum Upadhyay
26
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter threeAveda Functional Aroma Blends
BorntoHerbalistparentsPierreFranchommehasalonghistorywithnaturalmedicinalstudies.Mr.Franchomme,aprotégéofJeanValnet,chosetodedicate his professional life to studying aromatherapy and is one of the worldsleadingClinicalAromatherapists.Someofhisaccomplishmentsarethe scientific discovery of the energy of aromatic molecules, creation of a laboratoryforaromatherapybasedonthechemotypedessentialoilsandtheintroduction of new essential oils in aromatherapy (Helichrysum italicum, Inula graveolens, Ravensara aromatica, etc.)
HeistheAuthorofreferencebooks:L’Aromathérapie Exactement and La Science de l’AromathérapieaswellasaProfessorattheFacultyofNaturalMedicineandEthnoMedicineinParis.
In1990,EsteeLauderCompaniesbroughtPierreonboardtobetheexpertconsultantinclinicalaromatherapy and pharmacology, where he continues to support Aveda in their efforts to produce high quality,functionalaromablends.
Aveda consultant
Pierre Franchomme
i
27
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Functional Aroma Blendschapter three
This chapter will focus on 4 functions: 1.Anti-acne
2.BalancingthroughElementalNature
3.Anti-inflammatory/Anti-oxidant
4.Chakrabalancing
Function 1: Anti-acne
TheOuterPeaceskincarelinetargetsacne.SalicylicAcidistheactiveingredientwithintheproductsbutthefunctionalaromaalsocontributestotheanti-acneeffects.
•Certifiedorganiclemonteatreeandgeraniumwerechosenfortheactivity againstPropionibacteriumacnes(P.acnes),themicroberesponsibleforacne
•Testdatashowedthata50/50blendofthesetwooilsshowedaverygood inhibitionofP.acnesgrowthwithaminimuminhibitoryconcentration(MIC) of 0.0391%
•Thiscomparestothestandardactiveingredientagainstacne,5%salicylicacid, withaMICof0.1563%
•Tocomplimentthesetwoimportantoils,lavenderandvetiverwereaddedfor their anti-irritant activity
•Citrus,floral,wood,androotoilsthatwerehistoricallyusedtoreducestressand tensionwereaddedtocreateabeautiful,light,andsoothingblend
28
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter threeAveda Functional Aroma Blends
Lemon Tea Tree
BotanicalLatinname:Leptospermum petersonii
Extractionmethod:Distilled
PlantPart:Leaves
AromaticQualities:Citrus,medicinal,sharp
Noteworthyanecdotes:Lemonteatreeissonamedduetoitssimilarityinactivitytoauthenticteatree.Itisnotacombinationofteatreeandlemonbutratheraverydistinctoilinandofitself.WrittenreportsofLemonTeaTreeareavailableasearlyas1918.Initsnative Australia, it is considered anti infectious, anti viral, antiseptic, expectorant, anti-inflammatoryandadigestivestimulant(MarkWebb).Theoilisconsideredstimulatinginminutequantitiesandsedatingatnormalstrength.Theherbisburnedasanincenseandsmudgestick.
EmotionalAttributes:atmospheric cleanser of negative emotions, aids concentration.
AvedaSensoryProfileTesting:refreshed,awakened,calm,confident,uplifted.
TraditionalAromatherapyuses:oilyskin,acne,insectrepellent,dandruff,respiratorycomplaints, cold and flu.
Chemistry:Theessentialoilcontainsgeranialandcitralasmajorcomponents.Thesecompoundsareknowntohavesignificantantisepticactivity(5timesmorepotentthanphenol)aswellascontributingtothepleasant,lemonyscentoftheoil.
SafetyData:maybeslightlyirritatingtoeyesandskin
References:
Harborne,J.B.andBaxter,H.eds.,Phytochemical Dictionary,TaylorandFrancis,Washington,DC,1993.
Webb,Mark,Bush Sense,selfpublished,GriffinPress,Adelaide,Australia,2000,pg69;no references.
i
29
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Functional Aroma Blendschapter three
Geranium essential oil
BotanicalLatinname:Pelargonium graveolens
Extraction: Steam distillation
PlantPart:Leaves
AromaticQualities:Floral,green,sweet,citrus-likewitha hint of rose
Noteworthyanecdotes:TheLatinnameforgeraniumstemsfromtheGreek,pelargos,meaningstork,becausetheshapeofthe
seedcapsulesarelongandpointylikeastork’sbill.Duetotheconfusionofthecommonnamegeranium,PelargoniumisoftenmistakenfortheGeraniumflowerscommonlygrowninflowerboxeswhicharetruemembersofthegenusGeranium.GeraniumoilisreferredtoasRoseGeranium,andiscalled“thepoorman’srose”asthetwooilssharesomesimilarchemistry and therefore, aroma.
EmotionalAttributes:stress,discontent;improvesmentaloutlook;fortheworkaholicwhoneeds to reconnect with the self and emotions.
AvedaSensoryProfileTesting: soothed, calm, relaxed, refreshed, stimulated, uplifted.
TraditionalAromatherapyuses: antidepressant, antifungal, antispasmodic, anti-inflammatory,astringent;acne,bruises,burns,scars,eczema,rash,varicosities,cellulite,stress,oilyskin,dermatitis,neuralgia.
Scientificevidence:SignificantantibacterialactivityhasbeenshownfortheessentialoilofPelargoniumgraveolens(Dorman,Hammer).Theoilexhibitsbroadantifungalactivity(Shin,Pattnaik),aswellasantioxidantactivityintheessentialoilandthehydrosol(Sun,etal).
Aveda5-Lipoxygenasetesting(anti-inflammatory): use level 0.03%
SafetyData-Maybeslightlyirritatingtoeyesandskin
References
Dorman,H.J.andDeans,S.G.(2000)Antimicrobialagentsfromplants:antibacterialactivityofplantvolatileoils.J.Appl.Microbiol.88(2):308-16.
Shin,S(2003)Anti-aspergillusactivitiesofplantessentialoilsandtheircombinationeffectswithketoconazoleoramphotericinB.Arch.Pharm.Res.26(5):389-93
SunW,XuZ,WangC,QuW,LinC.(2005),StudyonantioxidantactivityofessentialoilsanditsmonomerfromPelargoniumgraveolens,ZhongYaoCaiFeb;28(2):87-9.
30
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter threeAveda Functional Aroma Blends
Ayurveda tells us that the essence of the 5 natural elements is found in all living things,includingyou.The5naturalelementsareInfinity,Air,Fire,WaterandEarth.
Whentheseelementsarebalanced,youfeelandlookhealthy,vitalandradiant.Whenskin,scalp,body,ormindconditionsarise,itisasignalthatanelementhasincreasedandneedstobebalanced.
TheFiveElements:
Infinity:
Air:
Fire:
Water:
Earth:
Function 2: Balancing Through Elemental Nature
i
31
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Functional Aroma Blendschapter three
Thefiveelementscombinetoform3functionalgroups:
Prakruti:Mindbodyconstitutionthatneverchangesthroughoutlife.Prakrutifocusesonthe individual as a whole.
Vikruti:imbalancedstateofanelementcausedbytoomuchofanelement.Vikrutifocusesonconditionorstatesofthebody.
32
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter threeAveda Functional Aroma Blends
LightHeavy
ColdHot
DryMoist
Infinity/Air Fire Water/Earth
How do you get imbalances?
i
33
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Functional Aroma Blendschapter three
Whatelement(s)doespeppermintbalance?
Whatelement(s)doesPatchoulibalance?
Tocreatebalance,youneedtousetheoppositequalitiestosettletheelement:
Balancing Infinity Air = _____________________ requires________________
BalancingFire=___________________________requires_________________
BalancingWater/Earth=_______________________requires_________________
infinity air
fire
water earth
34
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter threeAveda Functional Aroma Blends
Activity:
Smellthe3aromablottersthatwillbepassedaround.Noticethequalitiesofthearomaandguesswhichelement(s)thataromawouldbalance.
Aroma1
Aroma2
Aroma3
Whatitbalances Whatitis
i
35
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Functional Aroma Blendschapter three
TheScalpRemedyBalancingConcentratesutilizetheElementalNaturephilosophytobalancedry,oil,redorirritatedscalpconditions.TheseconcentratesareusedduringtheScalpBalanceTreatmentwithinBotanicalTherapy.
Smelleachbalancingconcentrateandtrytoguesswhichblenditis.Seeifyoucandetect the aromas smelled previously in the elemental nature exercise
Blend
Blend
Blend
36
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter threeAveda Functional Aroma Blends
ScalpConditionswhenoutofBalance
Scalphas:
• spotsofdrypatches
• overalldryness
• smalldryflakes
Scalphas:
• Redness
• Irritation
Scalphas:
• visibleoil/sebum
• largeoilyflakes
ElementalNature tobeBalanced
Infinity/AirNature
FireNature
Water/EarthNature
Product
ScalpRemedySoothingConcentrate
ScalpRemedyPurifyingConcentrate
ScalpRemedyConditioningConcentrate
BenefitKey
Aroma-therapeutic Essential
Oils
• Cedarwood• Patchouli• Vetiver
• Lavender• BlueCamomile• Rose
• Rosemary• TeaTree• Orange
ConditionsDryScalpConditions
SoothesRedandIrritatedScalpConditions
PurifiesOilyScalpConditions
Product that Balances the Condition
i
37
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Functional Aroma Blendschapter three
Function 3: Anti-inflammatory / Anti-oxidant
Totestforanti-inflammatorybenefitsAvedausesthe5LOXassay.Thistesttubeexperiment evaluates the anti-inflammatory activity of a potential ingredient through theuseof5-lipoxygenese(5LOX),anintegralenzymeinthehumaninflammatorypathway.
TotestforantioxidantblendsAvedausestheDPPHassay.Thistesttubeexperimentevaluatesapotentialingredientsabilitytoscavengefreeradicalsbycombiningitwithdiphenyl-2-picrylhydrazine(DPPH)whichcarriesanoddelectron.Iftheelectronispairedoffaftercombining,anti-oxidantactivityissuggested.
Activity:
Ingroupsvisitthe3stationsabouttheanti-inflammatoryandanti-oxidantblends–Enbrightenment,GreenScienceandAvedaMen.
Usingtheinformationatthestationandinyourworkbooksanswerthequestionsabouteachproduct.
38
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter threeAveda Functional Aroma Blends
1.WhatarethetwomainfunctionalaromasintheEnbrightenmentaroma?
2.Inflammationandoxidationhavebeenindicatedincontributingto
3.TrueorFalse:Lavenderisthemostversatileofalloftheessentialoils.
4.Listatleast3propertiesofLavender.
5.WhatarethecomplimentaryaromasintheEnbrightenmentblend?
6.List2propertiesofRosemaryoil.
7.FromwhatpartofRosemaryistheoildistilled?
true false
Enbrightenment: Askincarelinethattargetshyperpigmentation,discoloration,anddarkspots.
i
39
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Functional Aroma Blendschapter three
1. What are the 2 main functional essential oils in the Green Science aroma?
2.TheGreenSciencearomablendhasshowedgreatanti-inflammatoryactivityat_______% through5-Loxtests.
3.Inflammationhasbeenindicatedintheformationof____________and_________________.
4. What are the complimentary aromas in the Green Science aroma?
5.Roseisknownasthe_______________________ofessentialoils.
6.FromwheredoesAvedagetSandalwoodoil?
7.Rosehasacalmingeffecton______________________________________ asmeasuredbydecreasesinbloodpressureandadrenaline.
8. What is one of the chemical constituents that is in Sandalwood?
Green Science:Ananti-agingskincarerangethattargetsfinelinesandwrinkles
40
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter threeAveda Functional Aroma Blends
Aveda Men: Arangeofhaircareandskinspecifically created for the needs of men.
1.WhichAvedaconsultantcreatedtheAvedaMen’saroma?
2.Whatare2ofthemainaromasinAvedaMen?
3.WhatarethecomplimentaryaromasinAvedaMen?
4.WhatdoesPatchoulimeanintheTamillanguage?
5.List3propertiesand/orusesofPatchoulioil.
6.List3propertiesand/orusesoforangeoil.
i
41
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Functional Aroma Blendschapter three
Lavender BotanicalLatinname:Lavandula angustifolia
Extraction: Distilled
PlantPart:Floweringtops
AromaticQualities:Floral,sweet,slightlyherbaceous
Lavendercomesfromtheword,‘lavare’,meaning‘towash’.Lavenderhashadalongassociationwithbathingandcleanliness,perhapsbecauseitwasarelativelyeffectiveantisepticinaneraofgenerallyunsanitary conditions. It is evident in our modern words, lavatory andlavage.Lavenderisthemostversatileofalloftheessentialoils
andacommonsayinginaromatherapyis“Whenindoubt,uselavender”.Itisalsothemostwidelystudiedessentialoilandstudiessuggestanumberofpropertiesincludinganti-anxiety,anti-microbial,anti-stress,anti-insomnia,andreductionofcortisol(stresshormone)levelsinthebodyamongmanyothers.
RosemaryBotanicalLatinname:Rosmarinus officinalis
Extraction: Steam distillation
PlantPart:Floweringbranches
AromaticQualities:Herbaceous,camphor,withwoody-balsamicundertones.
Thenamemeans“dewofthesea”-fromtheLatinros,dew,andmarinus,sea.ThiswellknownculinaryherbwasmadefamousbyShakespeare’sHamlet:“there’srosemary,that’sforremembrance”.In ancient times it was often included in special ceremonies such as
weddingsandfuneralstorememberthebelovedorthedeparted,respectively.Inantiquityrosemary was associated with Aphrodite, the goddess of love.. Studies have shown that rosemaryessentialoilhasantibacterialandantifungalactivityduetotheactionsofseveralof its constituents, including 1,8-cineole.
EnbrightenmentEssentialOils:
Enbrightenment: An aroma with organic lavender, organic sandalwood, organic rosegeraniumandorganicrosemaryoilsissoothingandcalmingtotheskin.
Antiinflammatory(5-loxstudy)andAntioxidant(DPPH)studiessuggestgoodactivityforthearomablend.Thesetwoeffectsareusefulinanyskincare formulation.FurthermoreInflammationandoxidationhavebeenindicatedincontributingtohyperpigmentation.
42
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter threeAveda Functional Aroma Blends
GreenScience:A functional, certified organic aroma of rose, sandalwood, geranium oil, grapefruitoil,bergamotoil,cistus,romancamomile,andlavenderissoothingandcalmingtotheskin.
Inflammationistherootcausetomanyskinconditionsbutithasbeenshowntobedirectlyindicatedinfinelineandwrinkleformation.TheGreensciencearomablendhasshowngreatantiinflammatoryactivitythrough5-Loxtests.
RoseandAustralianSandalwoodaretwoofthemainingredientswithintheGreen Science aroma:
Lavendercomesfromtheword,‘lavare’,meaning‘towash’.Lavenderhashadalongassociationwithbathingandcleanliness,perhapsbecauseitwasarelativelyeffectiveantisepticinaneraofgenerallyunsanitaryconditions.Itisevidentinourmodernwords,lavatoryandlavage.Lavenderisthemostversatileofalloftheessentialoilsandacommonsayinginaromatherapyis“Whenindoubt,uselavender”.Itisalsothemostwidelystudiedessentialoilandstudiessuggestanumberofpropertiesincludinganti-anxiety,anti-microbial,anti-stress,anti-insomnia,andreductionofcortisol(stresshormone)levelsinthebodyamongmanyothers.TheGreenSciencearomablendhasshowedgreatanti-inflammatory activity at 0.006%through5-Loxtests.
RoseBotanicalLatinname: Rosa damascena Extraction: Steam distillation PlantPart: Flowers
AromaticQualities:Floral,sweet,heady,spicy
Noteworthyanecdotes:Theroseisthemostcelebratedofflowers,symbolofloveandbeautyandlongrecognizedasrepresentingthefeminineprinciple.Itisalsoreveredforinspiringspiritualdevotion,representingloveonalllevels.Rosehasa
longhistoryofusethroughoutcivilizationandamultitudeofculturesasafood,medicineandcosmetic.
ThepreciousroseoilisobtainedbycarefulsteamdistillationofthefreshlypickedflowersoftheDamaskrose,mainlyinBulgaria,Turkey,MoroccoandChina.Thereareseveralreasonsforthehighcostofroseoil.Ittakesseveralhundredman-hourstopickthe3-4tonsofflowersneededtoproduce1kgofroseoil;ittakes30-60rosestomake1dropofoil.Italsocontainsveryfewsecretorycells,makingitoneofthemostexpensiveofalltheessentialoils.(1kiloofrose=1mlofoilcomparedto1kilooflavender=12mlofoil.)Morethan350compoundshavebeenidentified,hintingatitsbroadrangeofactivity. Itisknownasthe“queenofessentialoils.”Instudies,Rosehasshownacalmingeffectonsympatheticnervoussystemactivityasmeasuredbydecreasesinbloodpressureandadrenaline.
AustralianSandalwoodBotanicalLatinname: Santalum spicatum
Extraction: Steam distillation PlantPart: Heartwood
AromaticQualities:Earthy,woody,sweet,balsamic,powderyfinish
Noteworthyanecdotes:Sandalwoodhasalwaysbeenconsideredasacredtree,whethernativetoIndia,HawaiiorAustralia.Thoughthespeciesmayvary,eachculturerecognizedtheinherentwisdomofthese genera that has carried an association with metaphysics, spirituality and wide ranging religious practices.Thewoodwasvaluedforitsinsecticidalpropertiesagainsttropicalpestsandwasoftenusedinbuildingsacredtemples;notonlyweretheyresistanttotermitedamage,thefragrancewasthoughttoputtheoccupantsintoacalm,receptiveandmeditativestate.Australiansandalwoodhasbeenreportedtohavebisabololconstituentswhichstudieshaveshowntobeanti-inflammatoryactivity.
i
43
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Functional Aroma Blendschapter three
Aveda Men: TheAvedaMen’saromawasfoundtohavebothanti-oxidantandanti-inflammatoryeffects.ThearomawascreatedbyPierreFranchomme,anotedaromapharmacologist. Thearomaisrichspicyblendcontainingpatchouli,orange, vetiver, lavender, lemon and spearmint.
Two the main oils are patchouli and orange.
Patchouliessentialoil
BotanicalLatinname: Pogostemon cablin
Extraction: Steam distillation
PlantPart: LeavesAromaticQualities:Earthy,musty,herbaceous,balsamicwith wood undertones
Noteworthyanecdotes:TheetymologyisfromtheGreekpogon, meaning beard,andstemon,stamen;thestamensofthesmallflowersarehairy. IntheTamillanguageofSouthAsiaandIndiawherepatchouligrows,pach means green, and ilai,leaf.Thisunlikelymemberofthemintfamilyshareslittleofthearomaofmostofitsrelatives;itisreminiscentofrootoil,though
isdistilledfromtheleaves.IndianshawlsimportedtoEnglandwereoriginallypackedwithpatchoulileavestorepelinsects;saleslaggedwhentheywerelatersoldwithoutthedistinctivelingeringscent. Itenjoyedasurgeinpopularityduringthe1960’sandwasthesignaturescentofagenerationof‘flowerchildren’.Patchoulioilisanimportantperfumecomponentandfixative,butisalsousedtoflavorsoftdrinks.Patchouliwashistoricallyusedinskincaretopromotetheformationofscartissue.Studieshave shown anti-fungal activity as well as a calming effect on sympathetic nervous system activity as measuredbydecreasesinbloodpressureandadrenaline.
Orangeoil
BotanicalLatinname: Citrus sinensis
Extraction: Expression
PlantPart: FruitpeelAromaticQualities: Fresh,light,sweet,fruity,citrusy
Noteworthyanecdotes:ThisnativeoftheFarEastisoneofthemostrecognizedanduniversallyappealingfragrancesknown,probablyinpartduetoitspleasantandwidespreadenjoymentofthetasty fruit. It is widely used in non-toxic household cleansers and solvents. Numerous studies have reportedantifungal,antibacterial,andanti-anxietyactivity.
44
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter threeAveda Functional Aroma Blends
AvedaChakra
TheAvedaChakraaromasareanexpressionoftheheritageofAveda,combiningthetwofoundingprinciplesofthecompany:aromaology and ayurveda.
Function 4: Chakra Balancing
WhatisaChakra?
• Theyare7energycentersthatarelocatedalongthemidlineofthebodyfromthebase of the spine to the crown of the head.• Theyarelinksbetweenmindandbodyandconnectustothephysical,mental, emotional, and spiritual aspects of life.• ThephilosophyisgroundedinAyurveda,the5,000healingartandscienceofIndia.• Theenergyofthechakrasspiralsupwardfromthebaseofthespinetothecrownofthe head.Thisistheascendingcurrentthathelpsconnectustoasenseofpurpose.• Theenergyofthechakrasalsospiralsdownwardfromthecrownoftheheadtothebase ofthespine.Thisisthedescendingormanifestingcurrentthathelpsustakeoursense of purpose and manifest it in our physical lives.
i
45
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Functional Aroma Blendschapter three
What is energy?
Chakrasarepracticaltoolsforpersonalgrowth
• Weprocessdifferentissuesinlifethroughthechakras• Whenyougothroughthelossofarelationshipyouprocessthatexperiencethroughthe heartcenter.Thatiswhywesayweare“heartbroken”• Letgooftheideaofbalancedandunbalancedoropenandclosedchakras• Theenergyofthechakrasisonaspectrum.Ononeendis“balanced”andontheother endis“unbalanced”.Everyoneissomewhereinbetweenthetwoends.
“unbalanced” “closed” “balanced” “opened”
46
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter threeAveda Functional Aroma Blends
Aveda Chakra aromas:
TheAvedachakrasaromasweredesignedtohelpyoufocusontheChakras.Theydonot“open”thechakras;rathertheyhelpyoufocusonthecentersso you can process your experiences.
• Thearomascanbeusedinamultitudeof ways:onthebody,intheair,inthecaror anywhere else you wish. • TheAvedachakraaromaswerecreatedin collaborationwiththeDrs.Upadhyays. • TheUpadhyaysselectedtheessentialsoils thatrelatetotheindividualchakras • TheAvedaaromateamthencreatedthe aromablendsfromthoseoils
i
47
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Functional Aroma Blendschapter three
Chakra1 – Chakra1istherootchakraanditisthefoundationoftheentiresystem.Withoutastableground,onecannotgrow.Itisthecenterwherewegroundourselvesandtakecareofourbasicsurvivalneeds.
i. Traditionalname: muladhara“theroot” ii. Location:baseofthespineatthesacrum iii. Color: red iv. Lotuspetals: 4 v. SeedSound: lam vi. Meditativeword: grounding vii. Chakraaromablend:vetiver,patchouli,andolibanum (frankincense) viii. Towardsbalance: one has good energy, a feeling of security, and a healthybodyawareness ix. Towardsimbalance: ones feels lethargy or exhaustion, resistance to change, and the need to slow down and ground oneself x. Physicalandmentalchallenges:poorcirculation,colonproblems, legsproblems,depression,overheating,andexhaustion
Asanexampleofayurvedicthinking,thefirstorrootchakracontainsvetiver.Vetiveroilcomesfromtheroot of a grass. As the roots of the grass ground the plant and connect it to its survival, so the aroma connectsusthe1stchakraourgroundingcenter
Individual Chakra information:
Vetiver
BotanicalLatinname: Vetiveria zizanoides
Extraction: Steam distillation
PlantPart:Roots
AromaticQualities: Very deep earthy, woodsy aroma with sweet undertones
Noteworthyantidotes: Vetiverhasbeenusedtraditionallyinbathandmassageoilstoaidrelaxationandcentering.InhabitantsofJavamadeinnovative screens from the vetiver roots and when used in a window or a fan it released the aroma throughout the house. Vetiver is an
extremely relaxing stress reducer that helps relieve stiffness. Vetiver hasbeendescribedassedating,restoring,andcentering.
48
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter threeAveda Functional Aroma Blends
Chakra2 – Chakra2isthepleasure/lumbarcenter.WithchakraII,wemovebeyondourbasicneedsintorelationshipwithothers.Itisthecenterofvitality,nourishment, sexuality, and sensation.
i. Traditionalname:svadhisthana“sweetness”ii. Location:justbelowthenavelinthelumbarvertebraeregioniii. Color: orangeiv. Lotuspetals: 6v. Seedsound: vamvi. Meditativeword: nourishmentvii. Chakraaromablend: orange, geranium, and sandalwoodviii. Towardsbalance:onehasstableenergy,alertness,andunblocked
emotions.Oneisconnectedtoall5senses.ix. Towardsimbalance:onefeelsrepression,holdingback,andcan
developaddictions.Onefeelsdisconnectedtotheirsenses.x. Physicalandmentalchallenges:lowerbackandhipproblems,cough,
exhaustion,menstrualcramps,moodswings,andkidneyproblems
Chakra3 – Chakra3isthepower/solarplexuscenter.ChakraIIIisaboutmotivation and tapping into your own power. In this center we set our intentionsanddesires,movingoutintotheworldtoestablishourself. i. Traditionalname: manipura“lustrousgem”
ii. Location: solar plexus
iii. Color: yellow
iv. Lotuspetals: 10
v. Seedsound: ram
vi. Meditativeword: intention
vii. Chakraaromablend:lavender,balsamfirandlemon
viii. Towardsbalance: one achieves goals and has strong motivation and direction, mental and emotional peace and self-confidence
ix. Towardsimbalance:mentalblocks,nervousness,andimpatience, lackofdirectioninlife
x. Physicalandmentalchallenges:liverproblems,lackof
vitalization,dispellingfears,elevatingmood,digestiveproblems, and constipation
i
49
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Functional Aroma Blendschapter three
Chakra4 – Chakra4istheheartcenter.Chakra4isaboutconnectiontoothers.Thiscenterbringsustheabilitytoseeotherpointsofviewandtofeelsympathy, empathy, and love
i. Traditionalname: anahata“thesoundwhichissueswithout thestrikingofanytwothingstogether”
ii. Location: in the center of the chest posterior to the sternum
iii. Color: green
iv. Lotuspetals: 12
v. Seedsound: yam
vi. Meditativeword: harmony
vii. Chakraaromablend: mandarin, palmarosa, and sandalwood
viii. Towardsbalance: love and connection to self and others, onefeelscomfortableinallrelationships
ix. Towardsimbalance:depression,lossofconnection,lackof caring,lackofself
x. Physicalandmentalchallenges:lungorheartproblems, ulcers,eyeproblems,lossoflove,loneliness,headaches, and infections
Chakra5–Chakra5isthecreative/throatcenter.Chakra5isaboutcreativityandselfexpression.Asonemovesintothe5thchakra,onebeginstoexpressideas and communicates effectively
i. Traditionalname: visuddha“freefromimpurities”
ii. Location: throat
iii. Color:lightblue
iv. Lotuspetals: 16
v. Seedsound: ham
vi. Meditativeword: expression
vii. Chakraaromablend: grapefruit, rosemary, and ylang ylang
viii. Towardsbalance: one has intensity, trust, inner reliance, and easily etxpresses their ideas and thoughts
ix. Towardsimbalance: one is selfish, has difficulty expressing thoughtsandemotions,feelsrejection
x. Physicalandmentalchallenges:throatorthyroidproblems, insomnia, headaches, inflammation, swellings, and fever
50
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter threeAveda Functional Aroma Blends
Chakra6–Chakra6istheintuition/brow/thirdeyecenterChakra6isaboutdevelopingone’sintuition,imaginationandperception
i. Traditionalname: ajna“communicationfromabove”
ii. Location:inbetweentheeyebrows
iii. Color:darkblue
iv. Lotuspetals: 2
v. Seedsound: sham
vi. Meditativeword: insight
vii. Chakraaromablend: petitgrain, orange, and geranium
viii. Towardsbalance: one feels strong intuition, a connection with the higher self, and mentally fit
ix. Towardsimbalance:onehasmentalblocks,overthinks things,andlacksdepth
x. Physicalandmentalchallenges: nervous system challenges,headaches,ear,nose,andeyeproblems
Chakra7–Chakra7isthebliss/crowncenter.Chakra7isabouttheconnecting to something greater than oneself and expressing wisdom
and enlightenment
i. Traditionalname: sahasrara“thousandpetaled”
ii. Location: top of the head (crown)
iii. Color: violet
iv. Lotuspetals: 1000 or many petaled
v. Seedsound:om
vi. Meditativeword: wisdom
vii. Chakraaromablend:angelica,elemi,andolibanum (frankincense)
viii. Towardsbalance:oneisstrong,unclouded,andfeelsjoyat the wonder of life
ix. Towardsimbalance: one feels loss of self, spiritual abandonment,lackofconnectiontotheuniverse
x. Physicalandmentalchallenges: stress and nervousness, fear, and depression
Chakra7containsangelicawhichisnamedaftertheGreek“angelos”meaningangels.Thisplanthasbeenusedthroughouthistorytoconnectonetoahigherself.Thusitsaromaisusedinthe7thchakrawhichconnects us to a sense of purpose or higher self.
i
51
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Functional Aroma Blendschapter three
ChakraBalancingMeditation:TheChakraBalancingMeditationisasimplepracticethatcanbedonefrom5minutesuptoanhourorlonger.Thepracticeengagesboththeleftandrighthemispheresofthebrain.Duringthepracticeonevisualizesaspinningwheelofcoloredenergyatthelocationofeachchakra(rightbrainvisual)whilesilentlyrepeatingthewordofthechakra(leftbrainlanguage).Youmayeitherchoosetofocusonindividualchakrasoryoucandothepracticemovingthroughall7chakrasfrom1to7or7to1.Whateverthechakrawordsmeantoyou,imaginethatfeelinggrowingstrongerduringthepractice.Forexample,thewordforchakra1isgrounding.Asyourepeatthewordgrounding,feelyourselfbecomingmoregroundedwitheachmoment.Thewordforchakra2isnourishment.Asyourepeattheword,feelyourbodybeingnourished.Thewordforchakra3isintention. Asyourepeattheword,setyourintentionsforthedayortheweek,inyourmindandbody.
Themeditationcanbedownloadedfromaveda.comandputonanI-podorotherMP3player.
•Findareasonablyquietplace.•SpraythechosenChakra™BalancingBodyMistaroundyourbody.•Sitcomfortablywiththespineerect.•Closeyoureyesandfocusondeepdiaphragmaticbreathssothatasyouinhaleyourabdomenexpandsandas youexhaleyourabdomencontracts.(1minute)•Focusyourattentionontheareaofthechakra.•Imagineacoloredspinningwheelofenergyintheareaofthechakra.(1minute)•Noticeanysensations,emotions,thoughts,feelingsormemoriesthatarisewhenyouconcentrateonthe chakra.(1minute)•Repeatthewordassociatedwiththechakraquietlytoyourself.(6-10minutes)•Attimes,yourmindwilldriftawayfromthewordandvisualization,tothoughtsinyourmindorsoundsinthe environment.Onceyourealizeyouarenotfocusingonthechakra,gentlybringyourfocusbacktotheword andvisualization.•Stopfocusingonthechakrasandsiteasily.(1minute)•Slowlyopenyoureyes.
Thefollowingisalistofthelocation,colors,andwordsassociatedwitheachchakra:
1st Chakra: Root Center•Located–thebaseofthespine (aroundyourtailbone)•Color–red
•Word–grounding
3rd Chakra: Solar Plexus Center•Location–solarplexus•Color–yellow•Word–intention
4th Chakra – Heart Center•Location–centerofthechestbehindthesternum(breastbone)•Color–green
•Word–harmony
5th Chakra: Throat Center•Location–throatareaat
thebaseoftheneck•Color–lightblue•Word–expression
6th Chakra: Third Eye Center•Location–inbetween
theeyebrows•Color–darkblue
•Word–insight
7th Chakra: Crown Center•Location–top(crown)
of the head•Color–violet
•Word–wisdom
2nd Chakra: Pleasure Center•Location–lowerabdomenafewfingers’widthbelowthenavel•Color–orange•Word–nourishment
52
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
chapter threeAveda Functional Aroma Blends
CreateascripttointroducetheconceptofAvedafunctionalaromastoyourguests.
53
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
introduction:
4AvedaSingular
Notes
54
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Singular Noteschapter four
AvedaSingularNotes: • AvedaSingularnotesaresingleessentialoilsdilutedinacarrierbasederived from coconut oil • Becausetheyarediluted,theyaresafefordirectapplicationtotheskin • Singularnotesareretailproductsthatareagreatintroductiontothoseguests who want to explore using essential oils
BrainstormwaysthatyoucanusetheSingularNotesathome.
i
55
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Chapter four
Aveda Singular Notes
ProfessionalBlending:• SingularNotescanalsobeusedprofessionallybyspaandsalonprofessionals to help achieveskinandbodycareneeds.
• 1-3dropsofasingleoilcanbeblendedwithamasqueormoisturizerandused during a facial.
• Forblends,upto40dropsof3oilscanblendedina2ozapplicatorbottlewith - Professional massage oil -HydratingFormula -AllSensitiveComposition
• Tocreateablendthatsmellslikeanequalblendofoils,simplyaddanequalnumberof dropstotheblend(i.e.roseabsolute20drops,sandalwood20drops).
• Tocreateablendwithonearomamoredominatingthantheothersimplyadd moreofonearomathananotherbasedonpercentages)(i.e.ifyouwantandroseand sandalwoodblendwheresandalwooddominatesusesandalwood25dropsandrose absolute15dropsorsomeotherproportion).
• AlwaysblendtheSingularNotestogetherbeforeaddingtothebaseproduct.
• Ifyoumixtheoilsindividuallyintothebase,thenyourfinalproductwillsmelllike differentoilsatdifferenttimes,butnotsmelllikeablend.
• BlendtheSingularNotesintoa2oz.applicatorbottle,shakewell,andthen addthebase.
Blend
Blend
56
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Singular Noteschapter four
Suggested references:• The Practice of AromatherapybyJeanValnet• Advanced AromatherapybyKurtSchnaubelt• Medical AromatherapybyKurtSchnaubelt• Gattefosse’s AromatherapybyReneMauriceGattefosse• Aromatherapy from A-ZbyPaticiaDavis• Mauguerite Maury’s Guide to AromatherapybyMargueriteMaury• Complete Book of Essential OilsbyValerieAnnWorwood• Aromatherapy, A Complete Guide to the Healing ArtbyMindyGreenandKathiKeville• Practical AromatherapybyShirleyPrice• The Aromatherapy Bible: The Definitive Guide to Using Essential OilsbyGillFarrerHalls
SingularNoteInformation
Learningaboutessentialoilstaketime.Itisbesttopurchasemanyreferencebooksandresearchsmallamountsofinformationontheoilsonafrequentbasis.Combiningthestudywiththeuseofessentialoilsinthespa,yougainknowledgeovertime.
Elemental Nature Aroma Classifications:
Singular Notes:
Infinity / Air balancing
Lavender
Vanilla
Patchouli
Rose
Bergamot
Tangerine
Water / Earth balancing
Bergamot
TeaTree
Eucalyptus
Tangerine
Peppermint
Fire balancing
Lavender
Peppermint
Rose
i
57
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Chapter four
Aveda Singular Notes
Thefollowingisreferenceinformationtogetyoustarted:
Bergamot OilBotanicalLatinName: Citrus bergamia
Extraction: Expression
PlantPlant:Fruitpeel
AromaticQualities: Sweet fruity aroma with citrus undertones
ElementalNature:BalancesWater/Earth,Infinity/Air
SkinCondition:Goodforoilyandblemishedconditionsaswellasacneproneskin.
Traditionalandwell-beinguses:Bergamotisupliftingandrelaxingandworksasagreatdeodorantandisusefulforanxiousclients.Bergamothasbeenusedasaninsectrepellentandisthoughttohaveanti-depressantpropertiesandhasbeenusedforlossofappetite.Bergamothasalsobeenusedtobalancementalandpsychologicalstatesandtorelievetension.
Eucalyptus oilBotanicalLatinName: Eucalyptus globules
Extraction: Distillation
PlantPart:Leavesandstems
AromaticQualities: Powerful camphoraceous note
ElementalNature:BalancesWater/Earth
Skincondition:Goodforoilyskinpronetoacneandblemishes.
Traditionalandwellbeinguses: Eucalyptus is refreshing and stimulating and has beenusedasadeodorantandinsectrepellent.Eucalyptushasbeenwidelyusedasadecongestantinhalantforcolds.Ithasalsobeenusedtorelievelocalpainanddiscomfortcausedbymuscularstressandrheumatism.Eucalyptushasbeenusedasagermicideandantisepticandisacommonflavoringforcough/coldproducts.
58
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Singular Noteschapter four
Lavender essential oilBotanicalLatinname: Lavandula angustifolia
Extraction: Distillation
PlantPart:Floweringtops
AromaticQualities:Floral,sweet,slightlyherbaceous
ElementalNature:BalancesInfinity/Air
Skincondition:Goodforallskinconditions.Ithelpsbalancetheproductionofsebumandisconsideredarejuvenatingagentontheskin.Italsohasdeepcleansingandbalancingqualitiesthatarebeneficialforblemishedskin.
Traditionalandwellbeinguses:Lavenderisthemostversatileofallessentialoils.Ithasbeenusedasatreatmentforcoldsandfluthroughsteaminhalationandtorelieveheadachesbymassagingintothetemples.Lavenderwasusedinancienttimesduringmassage to help soothe muscular conditions such as muscle stress, tension, rheumatism, sciatica,andarthritis.Itisconsideredaninsectrepellentandissoothingtoinsectbitesandstings,aswellassunburnandminorscratches.Onemotionalandpsychologicallevels,Lavenderwasusedtocalmandbalancefluctuatingmoodsandhelpanxiety.Itisusuallydescribedasbalancing,calming,andsoothing.
Patchouli essential oil BotanicalLatinname: Pogostemon cablin
Extraction: Steam distillation
PlantPart:Leaves
AromaticQualities:Earthy,musty,herbaceous,balsamicwith wood undertones
ElementalNature:BalancesInfinity/Air
Skincondition:Goodfordryskinconditions.Especiallyusefulwithchappedskinanddandruffconditions.
Traditionalandwell-beinguses: Patchouli is calming and relaxing was historically usedinskincaretopromotetheformationofscartissue.Emotionally,itwasusedinsmall doses to stimulate and in larger doses, to sedate. It was considered a strong, neural stimulant.Infolkmedicine,itwasconsideredaneffectivetreatmentforedema,obesity,and water retention.
i
59
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Chapter four
Aveda Singular Notes
Peppermint oil:BotanicalLatinName: Mentha piperita
Extraction: Distillation
PlantPart:Freshpartiallydriedfloweringherb
AromaticQualities:Strong,minty-herbaceousaromawithbalsamicundertones
ElementalNature:BalancesFire,Water/Earth
Skincondition:Goodfornormaltooilyskinconditions.Itcanbeusedinfacialsteamstocleanseanddecongesttheskinandisespeciallybeneficialforacne-proneconditions.
Traditionalandwellbeinguses:Peppermint is stimulating and a decongestant. It was knowninancienttimesasasoothingremedyfordigestiveproblems,withbeneficialactionontheliver,stomach,andintestines.Itprimaryactionwasantispasmodicandhasbeenusedforhundredsonyearstoalleviatethesymptomsofcoldsandflu.Ithasalsobeenused(diluted)tomassagetheabdomentohelprelievedigestiveupsets.
Rose absoluteBotanicalLatinname: Rosa damascena
Extraction: Solvent extraction
PlantPart:Flowers
AromaticQualities:Deeply floral with woody, sweet, and honey undertones
ElementalNature:BalancesInfinity/Air,Fire
SkinCondition:Especiallybeneficialfordry,sensitive,andmaturingskin.Rosehasbeenusedinthepasttodiminishrednesscausedbydistendedcapillaries,althoughapplicationwasoveran extended period of time.
Traditionalandwellbeinguses:Roseabsoluteisrelaxingandsedatingandhasbeenshownscientificallytoincreasesurfaceskintemperatureandsuperficialbloodvolume(vasodilation).Roseabsolutehasbeenusedinthepastasagentleantidepressantandaphrodisiac.
60
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Singular Noteschapter four
Tea Tree OilBotanicalLatinName: Melaleuca alternifolia
Extraction: Distillation
PlantPart:Leavesandstems
AromaticQualities: Warm, spicy strongly terpenic aroma reminiscent of cardamom and nutmeg
ElementalNature:BalancesWater/Earth
SkinCondition:Excellentforoily,blemishedandacneconditions.Traditionalandwellbeinguses–TeaTreeisastimulatingoilandisactiveagainstall3categoriesofinfectiousorganisms:bacteria,fungi,andviruses.IntheFarEast,itwasusedforcolds,coldsores,acne,fungalinfections,sinusproblems,andasananaestheticanddeodorant.TheaboriginalpeopleofAustraliahaveusedTeaTeetotreatwoundsandburns.TeaTreehasalsobeenusedovertheyearstotreatboils,skininfections,andsorethroats.
Tangerine oilBotanicalLatinName: Citrus tangerina
Extraction: Expression
PlantPart:Fruitpeel
AromaticQualities:Sweet, citrus aroma with fruity undertones
ElementalNature:BalancesWater/Earth,Infinity/Air
SkinCondition:Goodfornormaltooilyskinconditions.
Traditionalandwellbeinguses:Tangerineisuplifting,energizing,andawakening.
i
61
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Chapter four
Aveda Singular Notes
Aroma
Vanilla Absolute BotanicalLatinName: Vanilla planifolia
Extraction: solvent extraction
PlantPart:cured,driedbeans
AromaticQualities:rich,sweet,balsamicaroma
ElementalNature:balancesInfinity/Air
Skincondition:Goodforallskintypesbutinparticularnormaltodryskin.
Traditionalandwellbeinguses:Vanillaiscalming,grounding,andbalancingandhasmostlybeenusedasingredientinperfumes.ItisconsideredanaphrodisiacandwasusedbytheAztecsandToltecstostrengthentheheart,eliminatetiredness,andprotect against fever.
62
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Aveda Singular Noteschapter four
Write down 2 things that you learned today that you will incorporate into your workwithAveda.
i
63
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
Chapter four
Aveda Singular Notes
Appendix
Totestforanti-oxidantandanti-inflammatoryeffects,Avedausesthefollowingtests:
DPPHassay:Thisisatesttubeexperimenttoevaluateapotentialingredient’sabilitytoscavengefreeradicalsoritsantioxidantactivity.Theingredient(e.g.essentialoil)iscombinedwithdiphenyl-2-picrylhydrazine(DPPH),whichcarriesanoddelectron.Ifthisparticularingredientisafreeradicalscavenger,theoddelectronbecomespairedoff.Thisactionresultsinadirectcolorchangewithinthewell.Theplateisthen inserted into a spectrophotometric plate reader which generates specific values. Theresult,therefore,isdeterminedbythesevaluesincombinationwiththecolorchange.Fromtheresult,wecanthendetermineuselevelinformulation.
5LOXassay:Thistesttubeexperimentevaluatestheanti-inflammatoryactivityofapotentialingredientthroughtheuseof5-lipoxygenase(5LOX).5LOXisanintegralenzymeinthehumaninflammatorypathwayandinhibitingthisenzymereducestheproductionofinflammatorymediators(leukotrienes)thuslyreducinginflammation.Sowithinthisassay,theingredientisanalyzedforitsinhibitionofthe5LOXenzyme.Resultsareobtainedonlythroughvaluesproducedbytheplatereaderandfromthese results, we determine use level in formulation.
Soy ink on 100% post-consumer paper. Mixed paper recycling is limited. Please contact your local recycling program.
© Aveda Corporation. All rights reserved. Minneapolis, MN 55449-7106 USA 800.328.0849 / USA 763.951.6999 / aveda.com Global