Assembly instructions for 10ft x 10ft Open Playhouse

Materials provided:

4”X2”

2no 3m lengths marked for the base

9no approx. 2908mm for the joists of the base

8no approx. 320mm bridgers for the middle of the base. The last one might need to be cut down to

ensure the middle of the base is exactly 3m wide.

16no rafters per-cut with birds’ mouths and plumb cuts

8no collar ties with both ends cut at 60°

Decking

22no at 3m for the floor of the base

8no at 3m for the seating

4”x4”

10no 1360mm for the uprights for the two side panels and the corners of the back and front panel

4no 2820m for the sole plate and wall plate of the two side panels

2no 3m for the sole plate of the back and front panels

4no 2.2m for the uprights in the centre of the back and front panels, that will also form the entrance

4no 968mm for the wall plate height on the outsides of the back and front panels

2no 878mm to be fixed horizontally between the upright 2820mm posts

T&G weatherboard

38no 3.2m for the roof sheeting

16no 3m to enclose the back wall

2 sets cut at 60° to fill in the peaks at the back and front

3”x1½” railings

4no 1270mm closed railings

5no 878mm closed railings

8no brackets for seating

1no 3.2m ridge piece, cut at 30°

6”x1”

1no 3m length marked out for your ridge board

Screws

4x40 chipboard screws for the T&G boards

60mm decking crews for the decking boards

120mm chipboard screws for securing the railings

200mm index screws for securing the 4”x4” posts together

Felt nails for any felt or shingles if bought as an extra

4” wire nails for nailing the 4”x2” base and rafters

Maintaining your Wooden Playhouse

Maintaining your playhouse ensures that the pre-painted colour stains will continue to be vibrant and will help maintain the wood strength and quality. It is important to check all fixings regularly to ensure the playhouse is consistently at a safe and secure standard. As with any natural wood, changes and movement can occur, which means that accessories such as handles may need tightening occasionally. Checking the screws regularly will make sure that the panels are always fixed together tightly and securely. The type of outdoor space in which you're playhouse will be living can determine the type of maintenance that's needed, too. If the playhouse is in an open space that is susceptible to very harsh weathers, or is under overhanging trees or has grass growing near the bottom of the playhouse, it's important to maintain the surrounding areas to ensure the wood isn't obstructed. If the playhouse is on grass, be sure to mow the lawn quite regularly within the surrounding area, as the moisture from long grass can start to seep into the wood. It is also advisable to pay special attention to the bottom of the playhouse when applying wood treatment as this will prevent moisture from the grass entering the wood. If trees are nearby, or any garden bushes, be sure to keep the branches trimmed to prevent them from coming into contact with the playhouse, as this can encourage moisture as well as moss or even branches to start growing on the playhouse, and therefore affecting the wood. The roofing area of wooden playhouses requires your constant attention and vigilance to ensure that the roof felt is not damaged or torn. These problems can quickly lead to water gaining entry into your child’s playroom, which will cause the room to become damp and the wood then may become rotten.

You will need to replace the damaged area of roof felt as soon as possible. You can patch roof felt

and your local DIY store can sell you a plastic rubber seal that can be sprayed on to the roof to

provide an excellent level of protection. Repainting the whole roof area will hide your repairs.

If a month or two goes by without you inspecting the inside of your garden playhouses, the problem

could have been manifesting itself for all of that time without you knowing. You will need to remove

any rotten wood and replace it and seal it again as soon as possible. If there has been any period of

heavy snowfall onto the roof of your children’s playhouses, hopefully you remembered to remove

the excess weight from the roof as soon as you could before the roof structure became

compromised.

Maintaining wooden playhouses is not a difficult task providing you take the time to regularly look

all around the play area to check for potential damage and future problems. A cursory regular glance

might save you a substantial amount of DIY work later.

Step 1: Base preparation

Once you have decided on the location of your open playhouse, you can start to nail up the

4”x2” base, using the 4” nails provided.

Use the 3m lengths that are pre-marked to position the 2820mm joists, with the centres

measuring 369mm.

As you go, continually square the base, by measuring both diagonal measurements, ensuring

these are the same.

Once the base is all nailed up, you can start to level the base at this stage. Ensure that the

centre of the base is packed in a few different locations, to stop any movement or bowing of

the base.

The next stage will be to screw on the decking boards. Ensure these are positioned flush to

the outside of the base, as well as both ends. If the 4”x2” base is square then these should

work in nice and flush the whole way across. Make sure the decking boards run the opposite

way to the 4”x2” joists, screwing into each joist on each board.

Step 2: Wall preparation

Unfortunately due to the size of the front and back panels, you will need to assemble these

yourselves. We will have the two side panels made up, with each wall plate being marked for

your rafters.

To form the back and front use the two 3m 4”x4” posts as the sole plate for each wall. These

will have pre-drilled holes and will be marked for the upright 4”x4” posts.

The four remaining 1360mm posts will be positioned in each corner of the sole plate,

keeping them flush with the edge. Use two 200mm index screws to secure each one.

The four 2.2m posts will form the entrance in the front panel and the supports for the centre

railing in the back panel.

Once these uprights are screwed to the sole plate, you can now screw the four 970mm posts

to the tops of the upright 1360mm posts, ensuring they are flush to the outside.

To find the position of the other end of the 1360mm posts, measure up 1360mm and put a

mark on the 2.2m post where they meet, and secure with two index screws.

The last of the 4”x4” posts to be screwed together are the two 878mm posts, which go in

between the 2.2m posts. Measure up 2m from the bottom of the front sole plate and this

will be the mark for the bottom of the 878mm post. For the back panel, measure up

1360mm from the top of the sole plate.

Then all is left to do for the walls, is to lift them into place, taking care as they are very

heavy. Once you have them all positioned tight to each other, and flush all the way around

the outside of the base, screw the walls together using the 120mm screws, and also screw

them down into the 4”x2” supports on the base.

Step 3: Installing the cut roof

This is the more tricky part of the build, and at least a couple of joiners or good DIY’s are

required.

The first step will be to fix the two sets at the back and front of the structure. The tops of the

four 2.2m posts will need to be half checked out to allow the rafter to rest on top of them.

The bottom of each cut will be 30°. (see picture below) These outside rafters can then be

tacked into place at the bottom, to hold in place until the ridge board is secured.

Care will need to be taken as the ridge will need to be held up flush to the top of the rafters,

and nailed into place using at least two 4” nails into each one top and bottom. Also take care

when nailing the bottom that the nails don’t split the back of the birds’ mouth cut.

Once the two sets of outside rafters are secured in position, the rest of the rafters can be

spread and nailed in place. It is important before you nail too many of them, to ensure the

rafters are running level. This can be done by levelling down from the ridge at either side to

the outside of the wall.

Step 4: Installing the T&G weatherboard

Once all the rafters are fixed, you can then start sheeting the roof. Start the 3.2m board

flush to the bottom of the rafters, and work your way up the roof. If you are felting or

putting shingles on the roof, then fit the T&G boards upside down. If you are just leaving the

timber showing, then fit the boards with the mould facing up.

Ensure the boards have the same overhang each side, and fix into each rafter using the

40mm screws. Once you reach the ridge, you might find you will need to rip the top board

on either side to get a tight fit.

The next step will be to secure the ridge piece, which consists of two 3”x1½” boards screwed

together at 30°. This ensures the ridge is watertight, and is fixed using decking screws into

the rafters.

The final step will be to fit the T&G angled boards to close in the top of the peaks. These 5

boards should fit up tight to the T&G of the roof, and are screwed into the outside rafters

using 40mm screws.

Step 5: Fitting the seating.

You should find the seat legs that are 3”x1½” frames in the shape of a triangle. These can be

screwed to the side walls at equal spacing’s on the side you require the seating.

Ensure this are all level, then it is just a matter of fitting the decking boards on top of the

brackets. The seats will be two boards wide. The decking may need to be cut down to size.

Then use the decking screws to secure the boards to the brackets.