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Sisters are doing it for themselves

I’m based in Bali, one of the world’s most magical surfing destinations and renowned yoga centres, yet I haven’t really seriously pursued either activity. I’m also guilty of not fully appreciating this tropical paradise island, with scant time to kick back and really feel the sand between my toes. Bali hosts numerous surf camps, but the Surf Goddess Retreat is consistently recognised as one of the world’s premier surf and yoga experiences and Bali’s leading (and first) all-women surf retreat. Writer Samantha Coomber

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Although surfing is pivotal, it’s just the catalyst in this pioneering Bali retreat. Australian surfer Chelsea

Hunter founded Surf Goddess Retreat (SGR) in 2003, believing that surfing can also be a state of mind and female tool of empowerment. The retreat’s seven- or eight-day programme offers a supportive, fun and all-female environment, where women of all shapes and ages can learn to surf (in a previously male-dominated culture), balanced with yoga, gourmet cuisine and divine pampering for personal transformations. This year SGR celebrates ten years at the top of the luxury surf retreat market, successfully introducing over 3,000 women from across the globe to surfing and life-changing experiences. Lost in a fast-paced laptop-deadline blur, it’s high time I switched off and, like the retreat itself,

stick a door-sign up, declaring “Gone to the Beach.” Book me a place!

DAY 1In Bali’s sultry afternoon heat, I’m deposited down a narrow laneway and through wooden doors, enter Villa Serena, aka ‘Surf Goddess Sanctuary.’

I’m surprised (read: ecstatic) to find SGR is far removed from any surfer’s budget hang-out or detox boot camp – instead, I find a heaven-sent, all-white colonial villa set in tropical gardens with swimming pool and positioned in the heart of Seminyak, Bali’s hippest suburb, where fabulous beaches, bars, spas, boutiques and restaurants are on its doorstep.

“Why rough it for a yoga retreat or surf camp,” remarks Supreme Surf Goddess (SSG) Chelsea. “We’ve created a luxurious

touches cover custom-blended bathroom products, cotton kimonos and fragrant tuberose flowers. On my canopied bed, my starter Goddess kit includes a beach bag and a rash vest emblazoned with ‘Surf Goddess Retreat,’ plus a turquoise sarong.

No sooner had I unpacked, it’s our first yoga session at 4:30pm in the outdoor garden pavilion, where I meet other ‘surf sistas.’ Although these daily 90-minute yoga sessions contribute to personal transformation, they also run in sync with surf lessons. Grounded in Hatha style, these customised sessions help surf preparation and revitalisation of aching limbs, besides creating surfing positions, flexibility and body awareness. Today’s mellow introduction allows Yoga Goddess, Raine, to evaluate our yoga levels. As a novice, it’s painfully evident how unsupple I am, but Raine is empathetic, propping up

my closed hips with extra blankets! A t even ing o r i en ta t ion , we ’re

enthusiastically greeted by the retreat crew – Michelle and Indonesian assistant, Nana, and Australian retreat leaders Raine plus Melinda, a die-hard, accomplished surfer – who explain all there’s to know about SGR and this island of the Gods.

We nervously introduce ourselves AA-style, soon descending into hen-party mode. A typical group, we’re ten professional women (maximum 12, creating a supportive, small-group environment) from North America, Europe and Australia, mid-20s to late-40s. Here for varying personal reasons, we’re united by a desire to learn to surf. Most, like me, are complete surf beginners and solo travellers, filled with delicious expectations – and some apprehension – of our week ahead. Our welcome dinner is filled with laughter and excitement, introducing us to another SGR highlight, yummy health-giving cuisine, with fresh, organic ingredients bursting with tropical flavours – tonight, cauliflower soufflé, roasted pumpkin salad, barbecued pesto chicken and tamarillo crumble.

Apart from the gardener, there’s not a man in sight: I was concerned about all that oestrogen floating around, but all-women empowerment seems to work, contributing to SGR’s success. We’re all from different

surf retreat fit for Goddesses for a unique way to learn to surf.”

This exclusively designed, all-women’s retreat epitomises Bali’s carefree tropical island living with barefoot chic and open-air living spaces spilling out onto expansive lawns.

Sitting in the open-air living-dining room, handed my iced mint ginger juice and welcomed by retreat manager, Michelle, I immediately de-stress. A warm, bubbly Scotswoman, for the next week, Michelle is chief nurturer, big sis and two-legged Bali directory. At the adjoining open-kitchen, where all-female cooks prepare meals, a blackboard scrawled with “Welcome Goddesses!” sets the tone.

I’m led to one of the gorgeously appointed guestrooms (shared, or in my case, private), where thoughtful feminine

“We’ve created a luxurious surf

retreat fit for Goddesses for a unique way to

learn to surf” ~ Chelsea Hunter

THIS pAGE: private villa room and Serena Villa at Surf Goddess Retreat. OppOSITE pAGE: Surfing in the tube

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nations, but uncannily like-minded, and I instantly gel with these inspirational and witty women. Men? Who needs ‘em? Well, not this week.

DAY 2SGR is dominated by daily surfing schedules with local tides dictating times, hence most breakfasts start early. But even at this ungodly hour (6:30am), infectious laughter rings out and we’re rewarded with fuel-giving breakfasts like tropical fruit pancakes with Borneo honey. Ever-smiley Melinda bounds in, playing a surfing DVD to get us

fired-up – or more nervous – for our first surf lesson.

At 7:30am, Rip Curl School of Surf’s minivan awaits. I’m the oldest of the group, but driving off to nearby Legian Beach, feel I’m four and it’s my first day at school.

At Rip Curl HQ, we ritually change into our baby-blue ‘surf goddess’ rash vests (just so everyone knows) and carry what feels like gigantic surfboards to the beach, where we meet our cute team of Balinese (male) instructors. One of the best places

allows for maximum flexibility and plenty of personal time to enjoy Bali’s countless distractions at our own pace, within a group experience. Spas are an intrinsic part of Balinese culture: indulging our inner Goddess, the retreat package includes six hours of treatments without leaving the sanctuary. During this afternoon’s personal time, I wisely take the Balinese massage, which soothes my aching limbs, in the garden spa therapy room camouflaged by frangipani trees. I practically float to

THIS pAGE: Surfing at dawn. OppOSITE pAGE: Contemplating the waves from the shore

Having mastered standing up, today we learn paddling and wave types. Looking out to the crashing waves, the smile disappears off my face. Aided by our instructors yesterday, today, paddling out into the bigger waves and picking the right one to come into shore requires more Herculean efforts. Again, we crack it, but after an hour, I’m done (or my triceps are).

I feel like an 80-year-old, but even the younger women feel stiff; time for a highly restorative hot stone massage.

Our 5:30pm yoga session features stretches and holding yoga positions specific to building strength and balance, but they seem to hold forever and I’m struggling. Luckily, Raine understands our

the 5:30pm yoga session, which, thank the Gods, doesn’t entail anything too challenging – relaxing and restorative Yin Yoga.

Dinnertime is important, where Goddesses and crew share the day’s experiences and priceless anecdotes over sublime meals. Here, positive encouragement and camaraderie is honed like an art form. Hardly surprising, I sleep like a log.

DAY 3 I’m stiff, but surf’s up and it’s another beautiful day; enough time for Melinda’s daily surf pep talks and wolfing down breakfast before being transported to the beach.

(my) personal limitations. Adding to the retreat’s super-positivity

and nurturing, nightly affirmation cards deposited bedside yield such motivating words as, “I let go of all expectations, I flow freely and lovingly with life. I know that only good awaits me at every turn.”

DAY 4 Today’s tides dictate that surfing is at a later 2pm slot; no chance of a rest, however, as yoga starts at 7am.

“Goddesses are everywhere in Hindu tradition and we reflect this spiritual side by combining yoga with surfing,” says SSG, Chelsea. But I utter distinctly unspiritual mutterings attempting stretching positions,

to learn to surf, Bali enjoys consistent all-year round surf and warm tropical waters; beaches like Legian make surfing easier for beginners with manageable waves and sandy bottomed, shallow seas. Conditions today are perfect; gloriously sunny and well-formed waves.

Exclusively tailor-made with Rip Curl, SGR’s all-women, all-level surf lessons teach basic surf skills to essential wave and tide knowledge, plus enough skills to ride waves independently afterwards. Encouraged to progress at our own pace, we’ll be supervised individually.

Today, we’re learning how to handle the board, stand-up and water safety. After exercises and theories dispensed on sand, we lug our long boards through crashing waves. Fun but tiring (encouraged, as everyday, by our instructors and Melinda, the shoreline or surf-bound cheerleader), but by the end of two-hours, I and everyone are standing up, albeit wobbly: we’re euphoric. I learn however that this is the norm.

While there’s set daily schedules, SGR LEFT

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and when the heat kicks in, I head to the pool; Villa Serena resembling a five-star, supplying sunbeds, fluffy towels and sunscreen, plus unlimited spring water, soft drinks and fruit.

Back on the beach, it’s the big one – turning the board and generating speed on a wave, while establishing visual targets. I feel smugly accomplished standing up and catching waves (albeit failing to master the ‘turtle manoeuvre’ for larger waves). But now we watch our infectiously fun instructors demonstrate effortless turning techniques, then attempt that ourselves. I repeatedly fall off, but instructors are patient and ‘sistahood’ bonds sure blossom.

post four o’clock is Bali’s magical sunset time down the beach; I’m content just to be driven home for a hot shower. Retreat meal systems are unstructured; there’s no dinner tonight, so Goddesses can experience the island’s wonderful culinary options.

A peaceful sanctuary, Serena is, however, a short stroll from ‘Eat Street,’ with wall-to-wall stylish restaurants. All the Bali novices hit the town; I instead doze off to a hydrating aloe vera facial, followed by Seminyak retail therapy and dining, before lounging on my private terrace.

Later, I dream someone is shouting at me, “Stand up, Sammy! Stand up!”

DAY 5 The blackboard declares, “Enjoy your activities!” It’s ‘Bliss Day’ whereby surfing is

swapped for personally chosen cultural and leisure activities allowing us to experience Bali’s best. Bliss Day Options include countryside cycling tours, jungle river white-water rafting, Indonesian cooking classes, local market tours, psychic spiritual counselling sessions and more. I’m looking

“It’s all about personal goals, although a group experience.

Don’t compare and just enjoy the process”

~ Chelsea Hunter

THIS pAGE: Riding the wave; ‘Surf sistas’. OppOSITE pAGE: Underwater view

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forward to a surfing day-off, albeit still exerting myself with a morning Eco-Walking Tour, but uncommonly for me, immersing myself in traditional rural communities and guided hikes through rain-forested riverbanks and luscious rice fields. Rounded off with a sumptuous Balinese lunch spread overlooking...more rice fields.

By now, we’re all scrambling to expend our accumulating spa hours – one Goddess quipping, “I’ve had more spa treatments this week than I’ve had in my life!” Sun, sea and now paddy-mud excesses urgently

call for a mani-pedi and a Heavenly Hair Spa treatment, with heated coconut oil massaged into my scalp, up on the first-floor patio. Suitably beautified (and spoilt) I join the group at a swanky beach club nearby for ritual sunset cocktails, followed by al fresco dining. Glammed up, honey-browned and rash vests discarded, now we look like Goddesses.

DAY 6 Given last night’s revelry, many are MIA from this morning’s yoga – including me,

rewarding myself with a lie-in. It’s good to be back on the beach, and

part of what’s become a daily, well-oiled routine: changing into surf gear, lugging boards, stuck into exercises and awaiting instructions. We have it sussed, or maybe not, taught today how to link up turns, walk the board and gather speed; I’m still getting to grips with basic turns, but whatever! It’s fun paddling out and joining group ‘board meetings’ while waiting for waves, plus I’ve learnt how to read tide charts. Back at Serena, enough time for a reinvigorating foot

massage – releasing post-surfing tension – before ‘The Last Supper.’

Generally teary affairs, tonight is no exception (aided by bottles of wine); the exquisitely decorated table set for a feast of mango Keralan salad, grilled mahi-mahi with mango salsa and fruit pavlova. Strangers bonded together like superglue, now as graduating Goddesses we’re more relaxed and glowing: each stand-up testimonial reiterates newfound confidence, renewed appetite for life and a sense of accomplishment: out of our comfort zone to surf Bali’s waves, we can tackle anything!

DAY 7 8am: as fatigue and distractions kick in, yoga attendees have slowly dwindled, but I make a concerted effort for our yoga finale, which includes meditation. As I chant my final ‘ommms’, I reflect that I’m still ridiculously unsupple but have improved (and I’m aware that I should do something about this).

Last-day blues haven’t hit breakfast; instead, there is whooping and high fives while viewing a complimentary compilation surf DVD recording, showing how far we’ve progressed from nervous novices. We’re driven to Legian Beach one last time,

learning about taking off at angles and surfing etiquette. While concentrating more on perfecting turns (or lack of), we agree it’s been unexpectedly fun learning to surf en masse, while developing at our own rate and style. I’m not as proficient as some, but as the oldest, I felt I’d achieved enough: I can paddle, catch my own waves, stand up with a nice bum-tuck, just about turn, and one day, amazingly, go off and surf by myself!

As the SSG preaches, “It’s all about personal goals, although a group experience. Don’t compare and just enjoy the process. “

Dragging surfboards off the beach, we bid selamat tinggal to our tireless instructors.

Our last villa meal together is subdued with good reason, but a sumptuous Asian high tea with pots of masala chai compensates.

I don’t relish facing the outside world (maybe I should hide in the gardens) and saying fond farewells to my ‘surf sistas,’ indefatigable SGR crew and pampering retreat, where I haven’t had to think about much, except new possibilities. As I depart, the writing is on the wall, literally, the blackboard exclaiming, “Goodbye Goddesses!” Now I really am a fully fledged Surf Goddess. www.surfgoddessretreats.com

THIS pAGE: paddling at sunset. OppOSITE pAGE: Heading out to hit the waves

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