Ascent of Mount Rainier (14,410’)May 24-26, 2005

My buddy Jon Pineau and I decided to attempt Mt. Rainier since we were in

Washington for a 7-leg Adventure Race the following weekend. As I drove in from the east I watched the mountain

grow and grow on the horizon. It was an impressive volcano and I hoped the

weather would cooperate for a summit attempt.

Driving in we were rewarded with some lush forests and beautiful

waterfalls.

Upon arrival on Tuesday we talked with the rangers and got current weather and mountain info (including a body recovery operation of two

climbers that died just before we arrived).

Wednesday morning we caught the breakfast buffet at The Paradise Inn, where we gorged on bacon, and then hit the boot-packed snow trail by 9:00 a.m. It was a warm 50 degrees and we headed toward base camp with our 65 lb packs.

Camp Muir (10,080’) It was 5 miles and 4800 vertical feet up to Camp Muir. We moved at a leisurely pace

taking in all the scenery along the way.

Mt. Adams

Nisqually Glacier

There were great views of Mt. Adams, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Hood, and even Mt. Jefferson (over 100 miles south). We even saw Mt. St. Helens erupt on the way.

Camp Muir consists of a stone sleeping structure, a ranger hut, and some storage buildings. We

shared the shelter with 6 other climbers who had been up on the

mountain for 5 days waiting for good weather and establishing a

route up part of the Ingraham Glacier.

We hung around at camp where we met Bart, a WY ski instructor

who was looking for a summit team. Jon and I happily agreed

since a rope team of 3 is preferred over 2 for rescue

purposes.

We went to bed about 7:30 and were up at 11 p.m. to gear up.

After some hot tea we were roped and heading up by 12:15

a.m. with a nearly full moon helping us find the way. Temps were really warm – 25 degrees –

and no wind.

After 4 hours of darkness an amazing sunrise greeted us.

We continued up the Ingraham Glacier and navigated a

crevasse field with the benefit of daylight. It was steep going

but we all felt good.

Looking back toward Little Tahoma Peak

We hit the summit crater of the volcano at 7:00 a.m. A

third of the rim was steaming and belching sulfur-rich gas. From here it was a short hike

to the actual summit.

Victory is ours!!

However, last May Jon and I were on a 20,000’ summit in the Andes…We must be getting old.

It’s all downhill from here. But the warm temps meant lots of

avalanches and rock fall around us.

Celebration time!!

After our parking lot beers, Jon and I headed for the nearest hot

tub – about 30 miles.

The end